Francs Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (7-15-20) – Part 2: HP12064 to the Summit!

Part 2 of Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-15-20, 1:15 PM, 0.25 mile NNE of HP12064 – Heading N, Looper angled toward the E side of the vast, featureless ridge before her.  The gradual slope higher was a relief for SPHP after the relentless, steep march up the Meadow Creek valley.  Making good time now, without getting totally worn out in the process, or at least not much more worn out than SPHP already was.

So where are the roaming herds of grizzlies chasing butterflies, SPHP?  They’re harder to spot up here than I would have thought.

No clue, oh sarcastic Dingo of mine!  And it’s moths, not butterflies they’re after.  Maybe it isn’t moth season yet?

And when would moth season be?  I hardly think grizzlies would be too picky over whether they’re gobbling up moths or butterflies.

Most of the trip reports I’ve seen are from August or early September.  Plenty of grizzlies digging up moths here then.  In any case, we ought to be fine.  If we do come to any grizzlies, we’ll spot them a mile away.

On the vast ridge N of HP12064. HP12260 (R of Center), HP12436 (R), and HP12437 (far R). Photo looks NNE.

Didn’t take long to reach HP12260.  A couple of minor rock formations were up here, but that was about it.  The highest one was right along the E edge of the huge ridge, overlooking the Meadow Creek canyon.  The Carolina Dog scrambled up for a look at the route she’d taken up here.

At HP12260. Meadow Creek canyon (L). Chief Mountain (12,003 ft.) (Center beyond Lupe’s head). Photo looks SE.

Far to the S, the Wind River range was now in sight.  Loopster also had her best view yet of the many snow-capped peaks off to the W.

Mount Crosby (12,449 ft.) (L) and the distant Wind River range (Center) from HP12260. HP12064 is the first ridge beyond Loop’s head. Photo looks SSW.
Snow-capped peaks to the W.

Of course, the most important view was the one of Loopster’s ultimate destination, Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), still more than 2 miles off to the NNW.  Much more of the vast ridge leading over to it could now be seen.  The gentle slopes and hills of the rocky plain before her contained no visible obstacles.  Not even a single grizzly bear, either.

Francs Peak (L of Center) from HP12260. Photo looks NNW.

Abandoning HP12260, Lupe gradually lost elevation as she continued N on the enormous, rocky plain.  Scattered groups of wildflowers added splashes of color to the otherwise drab terrain.  Way over near the low point of the saddle leading to Francs Peak, blue and white specks could be seen next to each other.  As Loop got closer, they proved to be tents.

Wildflowers along the way.
Two tents (R) were in the saddle leading to Francs Peak (L). Photo looks NNW.

Instead of heading straight for Francs Peak, the American Dingo went due N all the way to the edge of a gigantic deep canyon carved by the Francs Fork of the Greybull River.

Approaching the Francs Fork canyon. Photo looks N.
Canyon of the Francs Fork of the Greybull River. Photo looks NE.
Another view of the same canyon. Photo looks N.
Same spot, but now looking toward Francs Peak (L). Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at the impressive canyon, Lupe turned W toward the tents.  Upon arrival, no one appeared to be around, but when SPHP called out, someone laying in the blue tent answered.  He said he was from Montana and his buddy was from Idaho.  Yes, they’d come up the Meadow Creek trail, too, and had been hanging out up here for a couple of days now.

By the tents. Photo looks N.

The man did not get up.  Nor did he say what their plans were, or exactly what they had been doing, but he did confirm that they’d seen a couple of grizzlies.  However, he was completely unconcerned.  The grizzlies are well-behaved here!  All graduates of an elite finishing school.  No reason to worry.

Well, there was certainly no reason to worry today.  Lupe hadn’t seen hide nor hair of a grizzly so far.

What are you saying, SPHP?  That isn’t true!  Don’t you remember that tuft of grizzly fur back down by the cabin?

Oh yeah, Loop!  You’re right!  That was hours ago.  Kind of forgot about that.  OK, so you did see hair of a grizzly, but you haven’t seen any hide.  How’s that?  Fair enough?

Yes, much better.  Please, try to keep your stories straight from now on.

The guy in the blue tent seemed disinclined to be too chatty.  After all, people often come to the mountains to get away from that sort of thing.  Not wanting to ruin the fabulous job of social distancing he was doing, Lupe and SPHP pressed on.

Not far from the tents, a long, skinny snowbank nestled at the bottom of the saddle leading to Francs Peak.  A stream trickling NE through it was clearly part of the headwaters of the Francs Fork of the Greybull River.  Lupe sank deep in the soft snow, but didn’t mind at all on a mid-July day.  Refreshing!

Enjoying the skinny snowbank! Photo looks E.

A much larger snowbank was on the E side of the next hill on the way to Francs Peak.  After her snowy frolic in the saddle, Lupe headed NW up to it.  Below this huge snowbank the ground was soft with moisture.  A carpet of light green moss prospered in runoff from the snowfield.

The lower portion of the snowbank was very steep.  Staying down in the mossy region, Lupe traveled N along its base.  At the far end, she turned NW again, beginning a snow climb up a ravine SW of HP12290.

Looking ESE back at the saddle and tents (R) on the way up to the next big snowbank. The prominent knob on the L is HP12347. The hill on the R is HP12346.
Heading for the ravine (Center) SW of HP12290 (R). Photo looks N.
The mossy carpet.
A lucky butterfly. So far it hadn’t attracted any ravenous grizzlies.

The snowfield extended much farther N than evident from below.  Lupe climbed steadily as SPHP trudged along behind her.  As she passed W of HP12290, Francs Peak was in sight again.  Only a mile away now!

Francs Peak (L) comes back into view. Photo looks NW.

Loop eventually made it past the upper end of the snowfield.  Adopting a WNW course, she headed for the next saddle 0.5 mile N of HP12471.  Francs Peak was now only 0.75 mile farther, but still 800 feet higher.  Once the Carolina Dog crossed the saddle, she was going to face much steeper terrain the rest of the way, but it all still looked like a simple walk-up from here.

Along the way, SPHP noted a couple of use trails toward the lower E side of the ridge ahead.  These trails went steeply up to the ridgeline close to the cliffy edge of the canyon to the E, which was another branch of the Francs Fork canyon.

In the last big saddle S of Francs Peak. Lupe aimed for the R (E) end of the ridge ahead. Photo looks N.

Naturally, Lupe and SPHP took advantage of these use trails, choosing the one farthest E.  Other than the usual struggle against gravity, there was nothing tricky about it.  Once up to the ridgeline, the route angled NW toward some big rock outcroppings, still a steady grind higher.

Staying a little toward the R (E) when she got to the rocks, Lupe climbed a lower, less formidable part of the formation band.  Once on top, a little dip led to a small flat region.  Beyond it was a narrow opening between more rocks that SPHP promptly dubbed Orange Lichen Pass.  Framed by these rugged rock formations, the already spectacular views were even more impressive.

Approaching the rock formations. Photo looks NNW.
In the dip. Photo looks WNW.
Orange Lichen Pass. Photo looks NNE.
Looking SSW after going through Orange Lichen Pass. Wind River range (L) on the far horizon.

500 feet and 0.5 mile yet to go!  From Orange Lichen Pass, most of it was a steep climb on scree slopes coming up Francs Peak’s winding SE ridge.  However, Loopster encountered no more large rock formations, and it wasn’t all endlessly up.  The ridge had some lumpiness to it, a couple of hills and saddles providing welcome respites along the way.

On a hill along the SE ridge. Photo looks NW.
Typical scree slope. Photo looks WNW.

At last, the true summit came into view.  One more little hill and a minor saddle ahead, and Lupe would be on her way up to the summit ridge.  Wouldn’t be long then!

Lupe on the use trail. True summit (Center) in sight! Photo looks NW.
Just about there! Last saddle and final ascent ahead. Photo looks NW.

Wow!  It had been a long trek from the Wood River valley all the way up Meadow Creek canyon, then miles more along the vast barren ridges to get here, but Lupe had made it up onto the S end of the summit ridge.  A mere speck of a cairn, which hardly did Francs Peak (13,153 ft.) justice, was perched ahead at the true summit.

Though very tired, Lupe and SPHP marched on.  A SW wind swept over the ridge at 15-25 mph, but these last few minutes, surrounded on all sides by the glories of the Absaroka Range with success assured, were full of joy.

Approaching the true summit of Francs Peak. Photo looks N.

4:56 PM, 55ºF, 15-25 mph SW wind – Lupe sat by the paltry cairn at the true summit of Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), magnificence all around her.  The American Dingo didn’t care for the cool wind.  SPHP was layering up in agreement.  Nearby, one of the loose rocks bore a survey benchmark that said “FRANCS PK2 1954”.

Getting to Francs Peak seemed like a stupendous accomplishment, in fact, so stupendous that after an initial look around, resting felt like the best possible course of action.  Loop had a hard time getting comfortable on the rocks, but finally found a spot to her liking.  Facing into the wind, SPHP sat next to her, petting her soft fur.

Francs Peak true summit. Photo looks NNW.
An American Dingo by the cairn. Survey benchmark visible on a rock just to the L. Photo looks NW.
Francs Peak survey benchmark.

So we didn’t get to see even a single grizzly, did we, SPHP?  Not exactly thick as flies, despite those trip reports you rely on, are they?  Heck, we haven’t even seen a moth!  Just that one butterfly.

No, not today.  But don’t give up!  We still have to go all the way back, you know.  Were you actually looking forward to seeing a bear?

Oh, the prospect of seeing packs of grizzlies did have a certain charm to it.  Can’t do that just anywhere.  Would have been exciting!  A real highlight of our Francs Peak tour!  Don’t you agree?

Packs of grizzlies?  Guess I’m sort of dull by nature.  Not sure I need that much excitement.  I’m plenty happy seeing all these splendid peaks!  And just think, today Carolina Dogs rule Francs Peak instead of grizzlies.  How do you like them apples?

Loopster did like the ring of that notion.  It was true, too!  Today, in fact at this very moment, an American Dingo ruled Francs Peak!

For half an hour, Lupe and SPHP stayed there, facing SW into the wind while contemplating a panorama of inspiring peaks.  Lupe had never been in the Absarokas before.  SPHP didn’t know the names of any of these fabulous mountains, but far, far away, ever so faint on the WSW horizon, was a readily recognizable mountain in another range.  Grand Teton (13,770 ft.), Wyoming’s most famous peak!

Francs Peak’s SW ridge (L foreground), Pyramid Peak (11,750 ft.) (L beyond it). Mount Burwell (12,313 ft.) (R of Center) at the upper end of the long valley on the R. Photo looks SW.
Grand Teton (R). Photo looks WSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

There was a lot more to see!  Batteries somewhat recharged by the rest break, Lupe and SPHP wandered the summit region, repeatedly pacing back and forth along the ridgeline while taking in the sights.

The Carolina Dog had a commanding view of Francs Peak’s NE ridge, the shorter route up for those who had 4WD, high clearance vehicles.

Francs Peak’s NE ridge. HP12509 (L). Photo looks NE.
Another look from a slightly different angle. Photo looks NE.

From the end of the short W ridge, Loopster could see row upon row of amazing peaks beyond the Greybull River valley.

Exploring Francs Peak’s short W ridge. Summit (R). Photo looks E.
Near the end of the W ridge overlooking the Greybull River valley. Photo looks WNW.
Distant peaks to the W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Back at the summit. Mount Crosby (12,449 ft.) (R) with snow patches. Photo looks SSE.

To the N, the scene was a little less dramatic, rumpled valleys and lower peaks nearby, but higher stuff toward the horizon.  SPHP wondered if Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) was in view, and spotted a mountain that might have been it, but probably wasn’t.  The Beartooth Range in Montana was faintly seen on the very edge of vision.

Looking NNW.
Jack Creek drainage with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNW.
Trout Peak (Center)? Eh, maybe, but probably not. Just a guess. Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Due E, beyond the enormous Francs Fork of the Greybull River canyon, barren looking Jojo Mountain (12,561 ft.) was in sight.  The Wyoming plains could be seen off in the distance.

Jojo Mountain (Center). Photo looks E.

Far to the SSE, a prominent peak stood out from all others in that general direction.  SPHP thought a topo map would make it easy to figure out what peak that was later on, but was never able to positively determine the true identity of “Mystery Mountain”.

Mystery Mountain (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.
Another look. Mystery Mountain (Center). Photo looks SSE.

Compared to the territory Lupe had seen N of Francs Peak, the valleys to the S were greener, and the mountains had more snow.  On the distant horizon, the mighty Wind River range could be made out.  Some of the jagged glacier-clad giants along the spine of the range sprang into focus with the help of the camera’s telephoto lens.

View to the S. Wind River range faintly on the horizon.
Wind River range. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

6:21 PM, Francs Peak – An hour and 25 minutes gone by.  Getting late.  The sad moment when the inevitable had to happen was here.  An hour and 25 minutes after arriving, Lupe once again stood in the wind at the summit of Francs Peak.  SPHP left.

The Carolina Dog was now alone, waiting for the signal to come.

Back at the summit. Photo looks NW.
Final moments atop Francs Peak.

The signal came.  The race was on.  The American Dingo streaked S along the ridgeline, overtaking SPHP in a flash.  However, the race was not against SPHP, but time, and it had just begun.

Atta girl, Looper!  Oh, it’s a long, long way!  We better make some tracks!  Gotta get back to the Meadow Creek trail before the light is gone.

Loopster paused at the S end of the summit ridge for a final look before beginning the steep descent in earnest.  Then it was down the scree slopes, across the saddles and minor hills along the SE ridge.  Every now and then, SPHP requested that she stop briefly for photos at especially scenic points.

At the S end of the summit ridge before heading down. Photo looks S.
On the way down to the vast ridge leading back to the Meadow Creek trail. Photo looks SSE.
Atop a rock formation near Orange Lichen Pass. Photo looks SW.

The last photo came at Orange Lichen Pass, where Mystery Mountain could still be seen looming in the distance.  Not that there weren’t more wonderful moments during the return.  It was all beautiful, a fabulous evening trek buoyed by Lupe’s success at Francs Peak, and weighed down by ever increasing weariness.  The need for speed, to the degree it could be maintained, now took precedence.

Mystery Mountain (Center) from Orange Lichen Pass. Photo looks SSE.

On the way back, Looper did not pass by the tents again, instead taking a shortcut well SW of them.  Nor did she return to the summit of HP12260, although she came within 40 feet elevation-wise as she passed W of it on her journey S.

The sun was down by the time the Carolina Dog reached the Meadow Creek trail again.  This time no leaving it!  No repeat of this morning’s mistakes.  As light faded, Lupe and SPHP sped down the trail.  At one point there was a slightly scary snowfield to cross.  Once beyond it, the pace picked up again.

Perhaps it was inevitable.  As dusk deepened, the trail grew fainter just as rapidly as the fading light.  After rounding the end of the big ridge that extended E into the middle of the Meadow Creek basin, SPHP lost the trail completely.  Even Loop didn’t seem to know where it went.

Oh, well.  Hopefully, no disaster.  Lupe had made it down to the region of scattered pines and open meadows.  If she just kept going down the canyon, all she had to do was pick up the trail again before it crossed Meadow Creek.

The flashlight came out.  The march lower resumed in weak flickering light.  Stars were now shining overhead.  Everything else was black, black, black.  Weariness demanded rest breaks.  Alright.  5 minutes each time.  Then onward!  It was clear the Carolina Dog would have preferred to spend the night.

After a while, Lupe did come upon a trail again.  Encouraging!  But as she followed it E, on and on deeper into the canyon, SPHP began to fret.  Had Loop found the trail too late?  Could the creek crossing really be this far?  Had it been missed way back up there somewhere?  Didn’t really make sense, though.  Could there really be 2 trails up here?

For a long way, Meadow Creek could be heard, but not seen, somewhere below off to the R (S).  Several times hopes rose as the trail threatened to go down to the stream, but each occurrence proved a false start.  Finally, a switchback!  This was it.  How big was Meadow Creek going to be?  The American Dingo had not crossed it on the way to Francs Peak.

Well, not a rock hop, but not too scary, either.  Exhaustion was setting in.  Hardly pausing, SPHP splashed across, feet and pants legs getting soaked, but only below the knee.  If Loopster had any problems with Meadow Creek, she didn’t say so, but she arrived on the S bank wringing wet halfway up her chest.

Now that she was across Meadow Creek, it was certain Lupe would make it back to the G6 tonight.  All she had to do was stick with the trail.  It all became a blur.  Longer, steeper, rockier than SPHP remembered.  Rest breaks laying in the dirt, even though it was virtually all downhill.  In the black forest, both time and the trail stretched to infinity.

So what if we come to a grizzly here in the forest, SPHP?  What’s the plan?  Still want me to just growl and stick with you?

No, don’t bother with that now, Looper.  The grizzly will already be upon us if we meet one here in the night.  New plan!  Since I don’t have anything left in the pack for you, just go ahead and eat any grizzlies we come to.

Oh, I am hungry!  Fresh bear steak does sound good!  Plenty left over for you, too, SPHP.

Thanks, Loop!  I can hardly wait.  C’mon, let’s keep going.

Down, down!  At last, Lupe reached the landslides, got across them, and was on the countless long switchbacks.  Almost home free!  However, near the bottom, the trail faded away.  Criminy!  What next?  Lost in a wretched tangle of deadfall!

Took a while, but Loop managed to thrash through it all.  Suddenly, she was on the road!  Yes!  Which way?  Dark outlines of the mountains against the night sky said R.  5 minutes, and the exhausted American Dingo was at the G6.  (7-16-20, 2:01 AM, 44ºF)

7-16-20, 6:54 AM, USFS Road No. 200, Wood River ford 0.33 mile from the Meadow Creek trailhead –  Lupe’s Francs Peak adventures might be over, but the G6’s weren’t.  Not until it got through 3 fords again, and back to the better road that started at the Brown Mountain campground without being swept away or popping a tire.

A beautiful morning!  The Carolina Dog stood on the bank of the shining Wood River at the first and worst of the 3 fords, while SPHP assessed the situation.  Maybe stay more to the R on the way through the ford instead of foolishly charging right through it like last time?

First Wood River ford on the way out. Photo looks NE.

Yup!  Staying R was better.  No bogging down.  The G6 was a champ!  Half an hour later, Lupe was on smooth gravel in the scenic Wood River valley cruising toward Meeteetse, happily barking at cows along the way.

So what now, SPHP?  Where we going next?

Oh, we’re going to rest up, take it easy for the next couple of days, then it’s on to the next big thing.  How does the Wind River range sound to you?

Lupe was happy with that.  The Wind River range is awesome!  And as long as the Carolina Dog is on the road to adventure, life just can’t get any better.

Francs Peak, high point of the Absaroka Range, Wyoming 7-15-20

Links:

Next Adventure                      Prior Adventure

Franc’s Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (7-15-20) – Part 1: The Meadow Creek Trail & Beyond!

Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Jim Creek to Agee Creek (7-7-22)

Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Agee Creek to the Summit! (7-9-22)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Utah & Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Francs Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (7-15-20) – Part 1: The Meadow Creek Trail & Beyond!

Part 2 of Day 5 & Part 1 of Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-14-20, 2:19 PM, Wood River valley, SW of Meeteetse –

We really aren’t in Pontiac territory any more, are we, SPHP?

Heh.  Kind of on the ragged edge of it, Loop.  Would sure be nice if the G6 can get us a few miles farther, but I don’t know.  We’ll see.

You never learn, do you, SPHP?

Oh, of course I do, silly Dingo!  But time goes by, and I unlearn it all again.

We’re in agreement then, because that’s sort of my point.

1.5 miles back, after passing the Brown Mountain campground, which was closed for some reason, USFS Road No. 200 had become narrow, rough, and quite steep.  Not 4WD or even high clearance territory yet, but the engine temperature gauge was climbing as the G6 chugged up the skinny road dodging rocks and potholes.  No. 200 was about to level out.  When it did, SPHP stopped to let things cool off a bit.

From this high spot, Lupe could see a meadow flanked by mountains of the Absaroka Range.  Farther up the valley, bushes and forest almost completely hid the Wood River, which the road had been following for miles now.  Somewhere 2 or 3 miles from here, a trail headed up one of the steep side valleys to the W.

Wood River valley from USFS Road No. 200. Photo looks SW.

The Meadow Creek trail was the long way to Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), the high point of the entire Absaroka Range, but was supposed to have the advantage of being accessible to vehicles like the G6 without high clearance.  However, like Lupe, SPHP was beginning to have doubts.

So far, everything had gone smoothly.  After lunch in Meeteetse at a little park with a statue of 2 black-footed ferrets overlooking the Greybull River, Lupe and SPHP had taken Hwy 290 SW out of town.  6 miles later, shortly after a bridge over the Wood River, there had been a sign on the L for Wood River Road, a/k/a County Road No. 4DT, which was blacktop.

5 miles S of this junction, Wood River Road had turned to gravel after crossing another bridge over the Wood River.  2 miles later there had been a sharp R turn onto USFS Road No. 200, which immediately crossed the river again.  No. 200 had then been good, smooth gravel for 12 miles all the way to the Brown Mountain campground.

On the last bridge over the Wood River near the start of USFS Road No. 200. Photo looks SSW.
Heading into the Absaroka Mountains on USFS Road No. 200.

Returning to the G6 to continue on from the high point, No. 200 began dropping almost immediately.  SPHP pulled off on a side road just before a steep dip that bottomed at a stream ford.  This was Jojo Creek.  Lupe and SPHP went down to check the ford out.

Jojo Creek wasn’t very deep even on Lupe, only up to her elbows.  The bottom of the clear-running stream was rocky and firm.  A few larger stones to watch out for, but the G6 ought to be able to manage this easily enough.  The ford was a go!

Checking out the Jojo Creek ford.

Piece of cake!  The G6 easily got through Jojo Creek.  However, this was only a temporary reprieve.  0.25 mile later, after crossing the sagebrush studded meadow SE of the Double D ranch, No. 200 led to a second ford, this one of the Wood River.

No way!  The Wood River was 200 feet wide.  Again abandoning the G6, Lupe and SPHP went over for a closer look.  If wading across wouldn’t work, the Carolina Dog’s Francs Peak hopes were kaput.

At the first Wood River ford. Photo looks SW.

The Wood River wasn’t really 200 feet wide.  It was just that the river was braided, and one of the channels had completely taken over a chunk of the road.  A deep pool was right at the start where USFS Road No. 200 entered the stream.  Beyond this pool, a long stretch of water rippled gently as if only inches deep.  The river looked deeper at the far end, but precisely how deep was not possible to tell from here.

Lupe could wade across easily enough; SPHP was certain about that.  In fact, SPHP was surprised to see that the G6 might actually be able to get through, as well.  The whole riverbed seemed to be composed of smooth, smallish, loose stones.  By staying to the L along the edge of the first pool, the deep part could be avoided.  The only question was what the far end looked like.

I can’t believe we’re doing this, Looper!

Don’t look at me, SPHP!  This was your idea!

Staying L at the first pool worked.  The G6 reached and splashed through the shallow middle section without any trouble at all.  Only inches deep, as expected.  Moment of truth!  The deeper, faster moving part at far end was just ahead.

Didn’t look too bad.  The far bank was sort of steep, but only a couple of feet high.  Giving it a little more gas, the G6 charged through.  Made it!

Beyond the Wood River, No. 200 was a mix of smooth road and sections full of moderate-sized rounded stones.  Rough, but not too bad.  As the G6 crept along, the rough patches became longer and more frequent.

After close to 2 miles, a second ford of the Wood River appeared ahead, again at a spot where the stream was braided.  This time, SPHP didn’t even stop.  The G6 crossed a number of minor channels on loose, smooth stones.  When the far end of the river came into view, the last channel held most of the flow.  Definitely swifter and deeper than the first ford.

Onward!  G6, ho!

Uh-oh!  2 feet deep!  Bigger rocks!  The G6 forged ahead, but suddenly started to bog down.  Disaster in the making!  SPHP stepped on it.  Something grabbed.  The G6 surged forward, clawing its way up the far bank.

Close one, SPHP!

I’ll say!  Better not rain while we’re back in here, or we’ll never get out again.

Oh, lovely!  Another Big Pryor Mountain!

Heh.  Let’s hope not, Looper.  On the way out, though, think we better stop and take a closer look.  Maybe we can avoid the worst of that next time?

No fair using a brain cell, SPHP!  Where’s the adventure in that?

At least that was the last ford.  The G6 bumped steadily onward.  A new worry.  Dense forests on both sides of the road were interrupted by areas where bulldozers had simply pushed the forest over creating gigantic messes.  Why, was not apparent.  The Meadow Creek trail was supposed to start somewhere along the R side of the road only 0.33 mile or so from that last ford, but what if the trailhead couldn’t be found?  It might have been wiped out.

Not the case.  SPHP was getting close to giving up, thinking the trailhead had been overshot, when a small opening appeared on the R.  A couple of vehicles were parked here, a good sign.  An even better sign was the rusty metal one over by a path heading NW into the forest.  “Meadow Creek Trail”.

At the Meadow Creek trailhead.
The Meadow Creek Trail sign at the NW corner of the little (4 or 5 vehicle) trailhead.
This stout metal sign will still be there when you arrive.

7-14-20, 3:13 PM, Meadow Creek trailhead – The Meadow Creek trail did not inspire confidence.  It looked faint even here at the trailhead, but at least it was certain that Lupe had made it to the right place.  Francs Peak was miles away and nearly 4,800 feet of net elevation gain higher, so nothing more was going to happen today.  The American Dingo had the rest of the day off.

Might as well do something, though.  Proceeding beyond the trailhead, Lupe and SPHP strolled farther up USFS Road No. 200.  After 0.5 mile, a big opening appeared on the L that went clear over to the Wood River.  Wandering over there, Loop cooled her paws off and got a drink.  The river wasn’t as big here, but perhaps some of it was underground?  This whole region was floodplain.

By the Wood River. Photo looks ENE.
Looking SW farther up the Wood River valley.

Returning to the trailhead, Lupe explored a short section of the Meadow Creek trail.  100 feet from the start, the trail was so faint it was already getting hard to follow.  Loop kept sniffing, though, and after another 400 feet, the trail curved L toward a steep bank and could be clearly seen starting up it.  Over at the bank, the trail proved to be in much better shape.  It made a sharp L turn onto what appeared to be the start of a long switchback.

Encouraging!  But this was far enough for today.

Meadow Creek Canyon ahead from USFS Road No. 200 on the way back to the trailhead. Photo looks N.

Returning to the trailhead once more, vehicles could soon be heard.  2 big ATV’s with tires and clearance that made the G6 jealous appeared.  The ATV’s stopped, and one of the drivers spoke to SPHP.

Are they still doing the bear thing?

Dunno.  What bear thing?

A gal was passing out GPS units to see how close hikers were getting to the grizzlies.

Where was that?

Right here at the trailhead.

SPHP explained that Lupe had arrived only a little while ago.  Hadn’t seen anyone until the ATV’s had come along.

Are you planning on taking this trail up to the cabin?

Yes, how far is it?

3 miles.

Do you have any idea what kind of condition this trail is in?

Oh, you won’t have to worry about that.  About 15 years ago some bigwig Fed came out here to see the area.  Before he got here they did some major improvements.  It’s a good trail now all the way to the high country.

And with that, the drivers waved as both ATV’s roared off.

Are we going to stay at the cabin, SPHP?

Hah!  No.  Didn’t know there was a cabin until he mentioned it.

What about the grizzlies?  Are we heading into grizzly territory?

Oh, yeah.  Francs Peak is grizzly territory alright.  Practically everyone that’s written a trip report I’ve read says they saw at least one.  Usually multiple grizzlies, even as many as a dozen.  So Loopster, if you happen to see a humongous squirrel tomorrow, restrain yourself and don’t go racing over to give it what for, OK?

By the time the evening was over, Lupe had gone to inspect that last ford the G6 had struggled with.  She’d even made a second journey way back up the valley to the big opening where she’d waded in the Wood River after getting here.  Now it was time to sleep in the comfortable safety of the G6.  After all, the Wood River valley must be grizzly territory, too.

7-15-20, 6:17 AM, 35ºF, Meadow Creek trailhead – Daylight in the swamps!  Sunlight was already filtering through the forest when Lupe set off on the Meadow Creek trail.  The trail seemed a bit easier to follow this morning, since she’d already explored this part yesterday evening.  Soon she was nearing the slope where the switchback began.

Near the mouth of the Meadow Creek canyon. From here the trail goes off to the L switchbacking up a steep slope. Photo looks NW.

The switchback proved to be the first in a long series.  Loopster trotted back and forth many times on the steep, forested SE facing slope of the mountain S of the start of the Meadow Creek canyon.  The ATV guy had been right.  The switchbacks were all in great shape.

The American Dingo had already gained hundreds of feet of elevation by the time she came to a rocky curve at the end of the last switchback.  The trail turned NW here, finally venturing into the Meadow Creek canyon.  Almost immediately, Lupe reached the edge of the forest.  Ahead was a huge rock slide.  Happily, the rocks weren’t big, and the trail could be seen continuing right across it.

At the upper end of the switchbacks where the trail curves L. Photo looks N.
Crossing the landslide. Photo looks NW.

The trail led up to a stand of trees unaffected by the landslide.  Meadow Creek could be heard down in the V-shaped lower valley on the R (N).  The whole canyon was now slowly, but steadily curving W.  Ahead was another smaller landslide.  A much more level section of the Meadow Creek trail crossed it before entering the forest at the far end.

Looking back toward the Wood River valley after crossing the first big landslide. Photo looks SE.
Approaching the forest near the end of the second landslide. Photo looks NW.

Entering the forest, the trail dropped 40 feet before resuming its climb.  Meadow Creek could occasionally be seen down below off to the R, but most of the time Lupe wandered among trees and flowers without much else in sight.  She eventually came to an open spot providing clear views of the towering mountains on both sides of the canyon.

At the bottom of the 40 foot descent into the forest after crossing the second landslide. Photo looks NNW.
Wildflowers along the Meadow Creek trail.
A perfect specimen!
Glancing up at Chief Mountain (12,003 ft.). Photo looks SW.
The canyon walls N of Meadow Creek. Photo looks NNW.

After a while, the Meadow Creek trail angled off to the L.  Lupe found herself on the back side of a small ridge where she couldn’t even hear the stream.  Before long, she was climbing more quickly, even coming to a switchback or two.  About the time Loop was getting back to where she could hear Meadow Creek again, she came to two items of interest in rapid succession.

The first was a tuft of grizzly fur.

Grizzly fur.

Get a good whiff of that, Loop!  First sign of what might be ahead.

Lupe sniffed, but exhibited only mild curiosity.  The rest of the bear seemed to be missing.

Not impressed, aye?  Well, just remember to stick with me.  And for pity sake, growl or something, but don’t raise a ruckus or go charging off if that odor suddenly gets a lot stronger.

So what makes Francs Peak such a popular grizzly hangout, SPHP?

Moths.

Moths?  Do you seriously expect me to believe that?  You’re nuts!

Be glad!  I attract more squirrels that way.  And yes, according to what I’ve read, grizzlies like to hang out way up on Francs Peak turning over rocks looking for moths, or maybe moth larvae, I forget.  Supposedly they are quite nutritious.

Are you kidding me?  How many moths would it take to support a grizzly bear?

Several, I’m sure.

Add 4 or 5 zeros!

I’d go along with that.

Loop had barely gotten beyond the grizzly fur when what was left of the cabin appeared.

Have we gone 3 miles, SPHP?  Is this the cabin the ATV guy mentioned?

Not sure, Loop, don’t think so, not even counting all the switchbacks, but I suppose this has got to be it.  Guess we can be thankful we didn’t rush up here to take advantage of these luxury accommodations last night.

On a scale of 1 to 5, I’m giving it 0 stars, SPHP.

All this firewood doesn’t count for anything?

No.  We never make a fire.

At the cabin.
Another view of the luxury accommodations available along the Meadow Creek trail.

5 minutes past the cabin, Lupe received a bit of encouragement, her first good look at the high ridge she needed to get to at the upper end of the Meadow Creek drainage.  It was still a long way off and a lot higher, but at least it was now in sight.

Hurrying on, the forest soon started thinning out.  Different flowers were growing up here.  Bluebells and Indian paintbrush!  The Carolina Dog paused now and then to sniff and enjoy the perfumed air.

The high ridge at the upper end of the Meadow Creek canyon comes into sight. Photo looks W.
Oh, you know it’s a great day when you are among the bluebells and Indian paintbrush!
Bluebells.
Indian Paintbrush.

Half an hour beyond the cabin, the Meadow Creek trail divided.  Hmm.  Unexpected.  The more heavily used route turned NW, heading down to cross Meadow Creek.  It was still visible on the other side going up a grassy slope.  The other choice was a barely discernable route that went straight ahead, still S of the stream and well above it.

The Meadow Creek trail is visible on the R after crossing the creek. Photo looks WNW.

Which way?  The far more heavily trafficked route crossing the stream seemed like the way to go, but when SPHP consulted the topo map, the Meadow Creek trail (No. 670) was shown staying over here on the S side of Meadow Creek Basin.  The map did mention that the location shown was approximate, but it couldn’t be that far off, could it?

Ignoring the better route, and without even thinking about what the ATV guy had said yesterday about the trail having been improved upon 15 years ago, SPHP encouraged Lupe to follow the faint trail leading W.

The faint trail soon became the non-existent trail.  The American Dingo promptly came to another trek across a landslide.  Should have gone back to the better trail then and there, but the rocks weren’t too bad.  SPHP stubbornly persisted.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Continuing W on the S side of the canyon. Photo looks W.

Foolish!  The landslide was passable, but SPHP was slow as molasses.  The rocky trek went on and on.  Over on the N side of the valley, Lupe could see grassy meadows and scattered stands of pines.  Gah!  Should have been over there.  This was both the scenic route, and a complete waste of time.

Of course, despite all the rocks, eventually there was an end.  Loopster got to where she could see meadows and forest ahead.  Alright.  No real harm done.  Might as well press on.

Looking back along the landslide. Photo looks E.
Lupe should have been down in those grassy fields on the N side of the valley. So much faster! Photo looks NW.
Keep coming, SPHP! We’re almost through it! Sort of. Photo looks W.
Ahh, much better! Back in business! Photo looks WSW.

Finally reaching a grassy slope, Lupe climbed a little along the edge of some trees, then passed through a short section of forest.  The news was good when she emerged from the trees.  Scads more open territory ahead.  Continuing to stay toward the S, progress was rapid.

Among bluebells and Indian paintbrush again in the short stretch of forest.
Back out in the open. Photo looks WSW.
In Meadow Creek Basin, where the canyon broadens out. Photo looks W.
Staying toward the S as Lupe continues higher. Photo looks WSW.

Above treeline now.  The meadows were decorated with all different kinds of wildflowers.  Looper got to sniff them to her heart’s content, as SPHP repeatedly paused to gasp for air on the long march higher.

The Carolina Dog also came to a cairn.  2 of them, actually.  SPHP was joyful.  Not the only dunderhead to come this way!  Self-flattery, perhaps, because whoever built the cairns wouldn’t necessarily have had to cross that last landslide, which was quite a long way back now.  And speaking of landslides, another one eventually appeared ahead.

Lupines.
Back on track now! Well, at least some lost soul’s track. Photo looks WSW.
Dazzlingly yellow something-or-others.
Progress check, looking back down the valley. Chief Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.
Tiny blue flowers. Some with yellow centers, some with pink.
Oh, yeah! Back into it again. SPHP never learns! HP12064 (Center). Photo looks W.

This last landslide became much steeper than any of the others had been.  Rocks began shifting with each step.  Lupe aimed for a small stream that came into view where the terrain wasn’t so rocky, and wound up having to cross a snowfield, too.

Fortunately, all went well.  Loop finally got over there, and had a chance to rest near the merrily gurgling stream, meltwater from another big snowbank only a little farther up the slope.

Heading for the stream. HP12064 (L). Photo looks W.
On the snowbank.
Traversing the snowfield. Meadow Creek canyon (L). Photo looks ESE.
On better terrain again among the wildflowers. Photo looks W.
Resting by the tiny river.

Noon.  Lupe and SPHP both took a break.  The merry stream wasn’t the only thing that was here.  The Meadow Creek trail was, too.  It had been visible again for some time on the N side of this drainage.  Should have gone over to it much sooner.  Never should have left the well-beaten path in the first place.

Only halfway there elevation-wise, and still miles to go.

10 minutes, that was it.  Still a long way to Francs Peak.  Many hundreds of feet yet to be gained just to reach the big ridge W of the Meadow Creek Basin.  Lupe had to press on.

The trail went SW rounding a corner and headed up a narrower ravine.  Following the trail, Lupe crossed to the S side of this ravine’s stream, and began climbing a steepish slope full of diminutive wildflowers.

Looking up the ravine. The trail is faintly visible on the hill on the L.
The Wyoming tundra.

Before Lupe got much farther, the trail just seemed to disappear.  SPHP had missed a switchback, but didn’t realize it at the time.  Hardly mattered.  The Meadow Creek trail was soon destined to turn S, eventually passing over the huge ridge ahead between HP11930 and HP12104Francs Peak (13,153 ft.) was practically the opposite direction.

The Carolina Dog needed to leave the trail and head NW now, anyway.

Dropping back down into the ravine again, Looper crossed a snowbank at the bottom, and started NW up the grassy slopes beyond.  The idea was to aim for the saddle along the huge ridge just N of HP12064.

Approaching HP12064. Lupe would stay to the R (N) of it. Photo looks WNW.
HP12260 (L) and HP12436 (Center), both farther N along the same ridge. Photo looks N.
HP12436 (L), HP12437 (L of Center), and Peak 12345 (R). Photo looks NE.

The long grassy slopes leading up to the saddle made SPHP stop to gasp for air numerous times.  It wasn’t until a little after 1:00 PM that Looper reached the 11,980 foot saddle N of HP12064.

The saddle was enormous, a nearly flat plain of gritty loose soil and small rocks sparsely decorated with clumps of yellow and pinkish-purple flowers.  The American Dingo trotted over toward the NW side where she could see many distant peaks farther W.

Up on the saddle. HP12064 (R), HP12104 (L), with Brown Mountain (12,161 ft.) between them. Photo looks S.
Distant unknown peaks beyond the saddle. Photo looks WNW.

Considerably closer, but still more than 2.5 miles away, stood another mountain off to the NNW, illuminated by the bright July sun.

So is that it, SPHP?

Yeah.  That must be it, Loop.  Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), mightiest of the entire Absaroka Range.

Lupe sighed, and headed N.

Francs Peak from the 11,980 ft. saddle N of HP12064. Photo looks NNW.

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

Francs Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (7-15-20) – Part 2: HP12064 to the Summit

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