Day 4 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana
Lupe wanted out. SPHP unzipped the door of her “tiny house”, and she vanished into the night. A nearly full moon hung over the mountains bathing the world in a ghostly glow. It was late, very late. Hours of light rain showers were over. Fortunately, the tiny house and everything in it had escaped being drenched. The clear sky was a welcome sight.
SPHP scanned nearby terrain tying to pick out the Carolina Dog. She was nowhere to be seen. Many secrets remain concealed beyond the pale power of moonlight to reveal. SPHP listened. Nothing but a soft breeze sighing.
Ten minutes later, she came racing back all out of breath.
Out having adventures in the night without me, aye Looper?
Maybe. A short one.
Want to tell me about it?
Nope, gonna go back to sleep now.
Smart. You’ll need some of that energy for Wind River Peak in the morning.
SPHP zipped the door of the tiny house shut as soon as Lupe was in. Best get as much shuteye as possible. Dawn couldn’t be more than a few hours away.
The moon was gone the next time Loop wanted out. Sol blazed well above the horizon. Morning! This was it! Breakfast. Final preparations. Everything ready. The great moment arrived. Now or never! Wind River Peak or bust! Lupe and SPHP headed N abandoning the tiny house. Nothing but up, now! 2,000 feet should about do it.
Lupe, who had been too tired to eat yesterday evening, was chock full of energy and ambition. She ran this way and that sniffing around big rocks. No squirrels, today! The American Dingo was already above tree line. SPHP was feeling the effects of the thin air, and two long days struggling to get to base camp above Tayo Lake. At the top of the first steep rise, SPHP paused to catch breath.
The S slopes of Wind River Peak(13,192 ft.) were directly ahead. The way up seemed straightforward enough. Just keep climbing while avoiding any steep snow. Lupe would work her way NW to gain a S ridge that looked snow-free all the way to the top. It would be a long boulder hop, but that was OK. American Dingoes are great scramblers! Nothing was in view that should prevent Lupe from reaching the summit.
Lupe pauses for a look around early on. Her best route up Wind River Peak looked obvious enough. Lupe would head for the upper portion of the bare S ridge seen on the L leading to the top. Photo looks NW.Looking back at Mt. Nystrom(12,356 ft.) (Center). Tayo Lake is in view beyond Lupe. She had spent the night on a broad flat part of a ridge 400 ft. above Tayo Lake. She’s already higher than that here. Photo looks S.Snowclad Lake 11,145 is in view below a towering wall of rock. One of the high points along the ridge must be Continental Tower(12,088 ft.). Photo looks SW.
Lupe and SPHP continued on, pausing now and then to look around and let SPHP catch breath. The terrain grew rockier. Lupe gained elevation steadily, but reaching the rocks slowed SPHP down considerably. The Carolina Dog had plenty of time to wander, sniff and survey the tremendous views.
Lake 11,145 again from higher up. The high peak in the distance R of Center is likely Peak 11,826. Photo looks SW.Getting close to the snow fields on Wind River Peak’s upper S slopes. Lupe is heading for the snow-free portion of the S ridge seen above the most distant snow field L of Center. Photo looks NW.Mt. Nystrom(12,356 ft.) and Tayo Lake are in the distance on the L. Lake 11,145 is below on the R. Lupe’s “tiny house” is too far away to be seen, but is situated down on the flat ridge above the near side of Tayo Lake.Lake 11,145 with help from the telephoto lens.
Looper couldn’t completely avoid the snow fields, but had no problem traversing them. She enjoyed the snow, and crossed at points that SPHP could manage. She made it above the last big snowfield, and gained the upper S ridge she’d been aiming for. The rest of the trek was just a long, long scramble up the rocks.
The morning had been breezy until now, but it was just plain windy way up here on the S ridge. A gusty 20 to 30 mph wind blew out of the W. Occasionally the air was calm for a moment or two between gusts, but most of the time the wind was powerful enough to be an annoyance. Lupe stayed E of the ridgeline for a little protection whenever possible.
Getting close to the last big snowfield and the upper S ridge. Photo looks NW.At the base of the final snowfield. Photo looks N.Lupe gains the S ridge. The terrain was like this the rest of the way to the summit. Long, slow, but nothing too scary or difficult at all! Photo looks N.
After a long scramble up countless rocks, the S ridge began to level out. Loopster had to be getting close to the top! She encountered a couple of larger rock formations, but had no problem scrambling around them. Ahead the ridge broadened out to perhaps an acre or more of gently sloping jumbled rock. Was that the summit?
A rock formation at the far N end looked noticeably higher than anything else in sight. Lupe headed for it. Even before she got there, it became apparent she was indeed approaching the summit of Wind River Peak(13,192 ft.). SPHP was overjoyed! The Carolina Dog had made it! Lupe leapt up onto the rock formation. She stood proudly in the breeze atop the glorious mountain.
Loopster astride the summit of Wind River Peak. Photo looks N.Come on up, SPHP! These views are amazing! Photo looks N.A seemingly endless procession of peaks of the Wind River Range stretch away beyond the horizon. Photo looks NNW.
SPHP joined Lupe at the top of the mountain. The sky was a bit hazy, whether due to smoke or humidity was hard to say. Even so, the views were simply superlative! SPHP congratulated Lupe on her peakbagging success, and shook her paw. For 10 minutes, Loop and SPHP sat in the wind up on the highest rocks, while SPHP stroked her soft ears and fur.
It wasn’t noon yet, but seemed like time for at least a snack. Lupe and SPHP got down off the summit rocks, and took shelter from the wind next to them. While Lupe devoured Taste of the Wild, SPHP had a Cliff bar, then searched around for a survey benchmark shown on the topo map. Nothing. SPHP couldn’t find a Nalgene bottle that was supposed to contain a summit register, either.
Puzzling. Wasn’t this the summit? It seemed obvious that it was. There were a couple of competing high points that didn’t look too much lower, though. One was to the E and the other along the W edge of the summit area. Better have Loop check them out, too, just in case.
Yeah, that was a good idea. Lupe had discovered a pika living among the summit rocks and was chasing it. The pika knew its home well, and had an easy time avoiding the Carolina Dog bent on its destruction. Completely fascinated by the elusive pika, Lupe was racing and bounding around oblivious to monstrous cliffs only a few feet away. Better put a swift end to this merry chase before it was Dingo overboard and the pika scored a victory!
Lupe found nothing among the large rocks at the E high point. Since she was close to the E edge of the summit area, she went a little further to check out the views over there.
Lupe near the E end of the summit area. Part of Poison Lake, which Lupe had gone around yesterday on the way here, is visible far down in the canyon a little to her R. The highest point beyond Poison Lake on the horizon is Atlantic Peak(12,490 ft.).Looking NE down the canyon (L) leading to Pinto Park. Part of the largest of the Deep Creek Lakes is seen straight up from Lupe’s head. Portions of East Echo Lake and the more distant Baer Lakes are also in view in the canyon.The same view with help from the telephoto lens. High Point 11,146 is the low hill just beyond the N end of the largest of the Deep Creek Lakes on the far R. Photo looks NE.Chimney Rock (12,653 ft.) is whichever knob on the barren ridge seen in the foreground is highest. This ridge is part of the route up Wind River Peak from Deep Creek Lakes. Photo looks ENE.Part of the turquoise pond at the upper end of the deep canyon leading NE down to the largest of the Deep Creek Lakes is in view more than 1,300 feet below Lupe. Photo looks NNE.Looking WNW back across the field of jumbled rock constituting Wind River Peak’s summit area. The true summit is seen on the R.
Having seen the views to the E, Lupe visited several of the highest rocks along the mountain’s W edge. No sign of any benchmark or registry turned up here, either. However, the views to the W were even more glorious, due in no small part to the eye-catching proximity of Temple Peak(12,972 ft.) and East Temple Peak(12,600 ft.).
Lupe had even more spectacular views from some of the highest rocks along the W edge of Wind River Peak’s summit area. Temple Peak (L) and East Temple Peak (R) dominated the scene. Photo looks WSW.Temple Peak (Center) and East Temple Peak (R) from Wind River Peak. Photo looks WSW.Temple Peak from yet another rock. Photo looks WSW.East Temple Peak (far L) and the S end of Haystack Mountain(11,978 ft.) (the near ridge beyond Lupe on the R). Photo looks WNW.
Beyond Haystack Mountain(11,978 ft.), Lupe could see the famed Cirque of the Towers, a gorgeous area she had been to before in 2015. Closer by, a slice of Black Joe Lake was in view more than 2,900 ft. below the American Dingo’s lofty vantage point.
Haystack Mountain (L) is the long sharp ridge beyond Loop. Beyond the R end of Haystack Mountain near Center is the famed Cirque of the Towers, a gorgeous area Lupe once visited in 2015. Photo looks NW.The famed Cirque of the Towers dominates the foreground. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Unfortunately, there was enough humidity, smoke or whatever it was in the air to ruin any really distant views Loop would have had on a totally clear day. With 360° of incredibly beautiful nearby panoramic splendor to admire, though, it hardly mattered.
While Loop relaxed, SPHP took some close ups.
Temple Peak(12,972 ft.) Photo looks WSW.Looking down on East Temple Peak(12,600 ft.). Photo looks W.Looking as far NNW as possible. SPHP didn’t recognize any of these peaks from this vantage point.
Loop? Loop, where are you?
The American Dingo had been resting at SPHP’s feet just a minute or two ago, but she wasn’t here now. SPHP quickly scanned Wind River Peak’s summit area. Nada. Where had she gone off to?
Sneaky Dingo!
Suddenly there she was, leaping and scrambling madly around the rocks over at the true summit. She hadn’t forgotten that pika, and had slunk off to pursue it again. No doubt mountaintop pika hunting was great sport, but it involved an element of real danger for both pika and Dingo.
A sneaky American Dingo back at the true summit of Wind River Peak. Photo looks WNW.Fun times on Wind River Peak.
Once more, SPHP put an end to the merriment.
Lupe stayed up on the summit only a short while longer. An hour had flown by already. Maybe it was time to think of moving on? Many hours of daylight remained, but as slow as SPHP is climbing a mountain, SPHP somehow manages to be even slower going down rocky slopes like those on Wind River Peak.
Partly for the pika’s sake, and partly to get on with it, Lupe and SPHP left Wind River Peak’s true summit for the final time ambling S. Loop got up on a boulder for a last look at Temple Peak.
A final look at Temple Peak before Lupe left Wind River Peak’s summit. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe and SPHP continued S toward the rock formations near the start of the steeper descent down the S ridge. Of course, the views here were tremendous, too. Lupe delayed the start of her descent until SPHP had taken a few more photos of the magnificent Wind River Range.
The magnificent scene to the S. Mt. Nystrom(11,356 ft.) (L) is in the distance. Now familiar Tayo Lake (L of Center) and Lake 11,145 (R) are the two largest lakes in sight. Portions of several other lakes can be seen as well. Crow Lake is at Center. Mountain Sheep Lake on the far L. Little Sandy Lake is in the distance on the R. Photo looks S.Another look S with help from the telephoto lens. Tayo Lake (L), Lake 11,145 (lower R), a slice of Crow Lake (Center – beyond the ridge), and Little Sandy Lake (R in the distance) are all in view.Continental Tower(12,088 ft.) is at Center on the near ridge. Along the more distant ridge are Little Sandy Lake Buttress(11,427 ft.) at the far L end, Peak 11,795 (R of Center), and Peak 11,826 (R). Lake 11,145 is at lower L. Little Sandy Lake is in the distance along the L edge. Photo looks SSW.Looking SE. Atlantic Peak(12,490 ft.) (L of Center) is the high point on the horizon. Mt. Nystrom(11,356 ft.) is on the R. Poison Lake is in the deep canyon in front of Atlantic Peak. Mountain Sheep Lake is in the deep canyon R of Center. Tayo Lake at lower R.Little Sandy Lake is in the distance at Center. Part of Crow Lake can be seen beyond the ridge on the L. Closer by also on the L is part of Tayo Lake. Little Sandy Lake Buttress is on the far ridge at R. Looking S with help from the telephoto lens.Looking SSW. Little Sandy Lake Buttress(11,427 ft.) is at the L end of the more distant ridge. Peak 11,795 at R along the same ridge. Continental Tower(12,088 ft.) is R of Center on the near ridge. Lake 11,145 at lower L and Little Sandy Lake in the distance along the L edge.
An hour and a half after she’d arrived at the summit of Wind River Peak, Lupe began her descent in earnest. The Carolina Dog did lots of exploring, sight-seeing and waiting around as SPHP slowly clambered down the long rocky slopes. Two hours passed before Lupe was below the big snowfields again.
Back below the snow fields. Photo looks NW.
Another two hours passed before she arrived back at her “tiny house”. Although Wind River Peak didn’t look 2,000 feet higher from here, it most certainly was. Lupe and SPHP could both vouch for that now. At least 4 hours of daylight remained, but it had been another strenuous long day already. Lupe joined SPHP inside her tiny house for a needed nap.
It was evening by the time Lupe emerged again feeling refreshed. The rest had done SPHP some good, too. SPHP proposed a stroll over to Lake 11,145. Lupe was enthusiastic about the idea, but she never made it all the way to the lake. Streams and marshes blocked the final approach, and SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet.
As close to Lake 11,145 as Lupe got on her evening stroll. SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet crossing streams and marshes to go the rest of the way. Photo looks W.
Loop circled around to the S end of the big ridge her tiny house was pitched on. For a long time, Lupe and SPHP sat together on a rock overlooking Tayo Lake watching the evening light fade from the mountains.
When the mosquitoes got bad, it was time to return to the tiny house. Lupe remained outside while SPHP arranged things inside for the coming night. When all was ready, SPHP went back out.
N farther up the ridge, more than 100 feet away, Lupe was all alone. She rested on the ground, still scanning the vast darkening wilderness. She saw SPHP, but didn’t come. For 10 minutes Lupe and SPHP watched each other from a distance. Loop didn’t move a muscle. What was she pondering all by herself?
Hard to say. SPHP would never really know, but if a guess had to be made, she may have been thinking about the elusive pika she would never see again that lives at the very top of towering Wind River Peak.
Tayo Lake at day’s end, Wind River Range, Wyoming 7-11-17
Day 3 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana
Lupe hadn’t seen the stars all night. In the wee hours, SPHP woke to the sound of raindrops on her “tiny house”. Not good. The rain cover had been lost years ago. If it rained hard at all, everything would get soaking wet. Lupe wanted out to sniff around in the darkness. SPHP unzipped the door and let her go.
The Carolina Dog returned before too long, content to lay down on her red sleeping bag again. SPHP folded it over her for warmth. Light rain continued intermittently for hours. A gray dawn finally heralded the new day. Everything was damp. Better get going nonetheless.
Lupe in her “tiny house” at the start of a gray morning in the Wind River Range.
After a brief bite to eat, it was time to find out what fate had in store.
May as well leave things here while we do a quick reconnaissance, Loop. This might all be over before we even get started.
Over! Last night, you said you had a plan!
Yes, two plans actually. The first one is no doubt doomed from the start. We’ll know for certain in a few minutes. The second plan might well suffer the same fate. Maybe, though, it will leave us with some hope, at least for a while.
Oh! Doesn’t sound too good. Are we going back soon, then?
Yes, Looper, if neither plan works, we won’t have any choice. Our Wind River Peak dreams will be kaput. Come on! Let’s go down to the river, and get this over with.
The Middle Popo Agie River was only a couple minutes away from the tiny house. Surprisingly, the river had actually dropped an inch or two overnight. It wasn’t enough, not nearly enough. Plan A was a failure. Lupe would still have to traipse 80 feet or more through a shallow lake just to get to the river channel where the ford was. No way! The river was way out of its banks, and far too dangerous.
That was Plan A, SPHP? You’re kidding, right? You knew the river would still be flooding!
Of course, but yeah, hoping that the river had gone down enough to ford it was Plan A. We at least had to come and take another look, didn’t we? Thought maybe it would look more possible this morning than when I was tired last night. It doesn’t. Let’s go check out Plan B.
Plan B had better be a doozie compared to Plan A!
Lupe had spent the night camped only 0.25 mile away from the intersection of Trails No. 707 & 706 up in Tayo Park. From there, she would have had two possible routes to Wind River Peak(13,192 ft.). She could have taken No. 706 N to Deep Creek Lakes, or No. 707 W to Tayo Lake.
The original idea was to make a nice loop up via Deep Creek Lakes and down by Tayo Lake. SPHP had seen trip reports where others had done it that way. However, the Wind River Range still had tons of snow in the high country. Snow melt was flooding the Middle Popo Agie River. Loop couldn’t even get to the ford on Trail No. 707, never mind across the river.
Lupe and SPHP returned to her tiny house, then took a shortcut S to Middle Fork Trail No. 700. On the way, Lupe could see Tayo Creek on the opposite side of the valley roaring down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River only a little upstream of the ford. That sight was what had given SPHP hope yesterday evening. Maybe Loopster wasn’t totally thwarted yet in her efforts to get to Wind River Peak?
From this rock not far from her tiny house, Lupe could see Tayo Creek roaring down out of the forest to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River. Photo looks NW.Tayo Creek surges into the flooded valley of the Middle Popo Agie River. The tremendous flow in Tayo Creek was what gave SPHP the idea for Plan B. Photo looks NW.
Lupe reached Middle Fork Trail No. 700 a little S of where she’d left it yesterday evening to take Trail No. 707 to the flooding Middle Popo Agie River. A small wooden sign along No. 700 read simply “Tayo Park”.
Hey, Loop, look at that! We’re already at Tayo Park! Lower Tayo Park, that is. The topo map only shows Tayo Park on the other side of the Middle Popo Agie River 120 feet higher than where we are now. Guess there’s an Upper and a Lower Tayo Park? At least now we can say you did make it to Lower Tayo Park, if not the upper one.
Nothing’s really changed, though? We’re no better off than we were?
Not yet, sweet Dingo! We’ll know soon if there’s any hope of improvement.
Lupe and SPHP followed Middle Fork Trail No. 700 going S toward Sweetwater Gap. The Middle Popo Agie River snaked through flooded Lower Tayo Park just W of the trail.
The Middle Popo Agie River meanders through flooded Lower Tayo Park. Photo looks SW.
The S end of Lower Tayo Park was only 0.2 mile away. When Lupe got to it, SPHP led her off Trail No. 700 over to the Middle Popo Agie River.
Hey, you’re in luck Looper! It’s on! Let’s go back and get the tiny house and rest of the gear.
Plan B is going to work?
Well, at least at the start. We’ll just have to see how far we can get. No guarantees at all.
So what is Plan B exactly?
Divide and conquer.
Meaning?
Meaning we’re coming back to cross the Middle Popo Agie right here. Most of the flow at the ford comes from Tayo Creek, which is actually by far the larger of the 2 streams above their confluence in Lower Tayo Park. After crossing the Middle Popo Agie, we’ll still be on the wrong side of Tayo Creek. You will have to keep following it upstream until either there’s a way across, or some impassable obstacle blocks the way forward. The farther we can make it upstream, the more tributaries we’ll get by, the smaller Tayo Creek will be, and the better our chances of reaching the trail again somewhere.
So in the meantime, we’re going to let the waters divide, and conquer them one smaller stream at a time?
Precisely, dear Dingo!
So there won’t be a trail?
Nope, a total bushwhack for miles, probably.
Oh, I love bushwhacks, SPHP! Plan B sounds like a great adventure!
Doesn’t it, though?
What are we waiting for? Let’s run!
Lupe streaked back to Trail No. 700. Of course, SPHP was much slower, so Loop had to keep returning to bark encouragement. It wasn’t too long, though, before SPHP had retrieved the tiny house and all the gear. Once again, Lupe stood on the E bank of the Middle Popo Agie River at the S end of Lower Tayo Park.
Lupe along the E bank of the Middle Popo Agie River at the S end of Lower Tayo Park. Above the confluence with Tayo Creek, the river was much smaller here. Lupe would have no problem crossing to the W (L) bank all on her own. Photo looks NNE.
The Middle Popo Agie River was still a good-sized, fast flowing stream, but much smaller here than farther downstream where Tayo Creek added its torrential flow. SPHP forded the river first. Loop followed close behind. The waters were still pretty deep for her, but she managed to get across without any help. Plan B was underway!
Loop headed N along the W side of Lower Tayo Park. The whole bottom of the valley was a bog or worse. Lupe climbed a little up onto drier ground along the valley’s edge. She passed over a small forested ridge and came to a field on the other side, much of which also proved to be boggy. Loop crossed the wet field, and again climbed to drier ground in the forest.
The roar of Tayo Creek could be heard ahead. Lupe continued climbing steadily through open forest toward the noise. The terrain wasn’t bad at all. Mosquitoes were, though. Those miserable blood suckers were awful again today. 0.25 mile N of where Lupe had crossed the Middle Popo Agie, she reached a rock where she could see Tayo Creek rushing down a narrow channel below a steep bank. A small island was surrounded by whitewater.
Lupe reaches Tayo Creek 0.25 mile N of where she’d forded the Middle Popo Agie River. Photo looks WNW.
Somewhere not too far away on the other side of Tayo Creek was Trail No. 707 to Upper Tayo Park. As fully expected, Lupe had no way to cross the raging stream yet. Lupe and SPHP turned W staying in the forest and following Tayo Creek upstream.
After gaining only a little over 100 feet of elevation, the terrain began to level out. Lupe had reached the S side of Upper Tayo Park. The surface of Tayo Creek was calm here, though ripples showed the water was still moving fast. A bog full of bushes prevented the Carolina Dog from getting anywhere close to the creek, which looked deep. On the far side, the bog extended hundreds of feet beyond the stream.
Looking N across Tayo Creek toward a portion of Upper Tayo Park. The intersection of Trails No. 707 & No. 706 is somewhere on the other side of the stream, but Loop had no way to get across. Photo looks NNE.
The American Dingo continued WSW following Tayo Creek. Beyond Upper Tayo Park, she started gaining elevation again. Tayo Creek reverted to a whitewater torrent. Though most of the ground in the open forest was dry, Lupe and SPHP crossed many snowdrifts. Despite the mosquitoes, Loop was having a fantastic time! Squirrels were everywhere! The Carolina Dog’s incessant yipping and yapping echoed through the valley.
SPHP’s promise, recently made back at Jack Squirrel Peak(8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Range, to bring Loop to higher mountains where there would be squirrels galore was being fulfilled!
Above Upper Tayo Park, Tayo Creek became a whitewater torrent again. Lupe wasn’t worried about getting across. The forest on this side of the stream was full of squirrels to bark at! Photo looks W.
Tayo Creek was becoming even more wild as Lupe continued upstream. SPHP feared it would eventually flow right up against cliffs, or other obstacles on the S side of the valley that Lupe couldn’t get past. So far, though, it hadn’t. Instead of finding herself blocked, Lupe discovered a lovely waterfall.
Lupe discovers a waterfall on Tayo Creek.
Lupe came to two separate waterfalls on Tayo Creek. They weren’t far apart. The lower falls were the largest. Staying in the forest, the American Dingo had no problem continuing upstream beyond them.
Lower Tayo Creek Falls. These lower falls were the largest. Photo looks NNW.On a snowbank between Lower & Upper Tayo Creek Falls. Apparently the snow here was quite tasty.Lupe reaches Upper Tayo Creek Falls. Some of the open areas had an awful lot of snow around by the time Loop got this far. Fortunately, there wasn’t as much snow in the forest. Photo looks NNW.
Loop didn’t have to travel very far beyond the waterfalls before the valley began to open up more. The American Dingo could now see some of the high country ahead.
Above Upper Tayo Creek Falls, the valley started to open up. Lupe began getting glimpses of some of the high territory ahead. Photo looks W.
Loop had been making good progress. SPHP realized that the valley opening up meant the Carolina Dog was fast approaching Poison Lake. If she couldn’t get around it, Poison Lake would spell the end of Plan B’s success.
Poison Lake! You never said anything about a Poison Lake, SPHP!
Oh, don’t worry about it Loopster. I can’t imagine it’s actually poisonous.
Ridiculous humans! Then why on earth would it be called Poison Lake?
How should I know? Someone once had a poor experience, I suppose.
Well thanks so much for the heads up, SPHP! Think I’ll just keep eating snow and drinking from these smaller streams, if you don’t mind.
Suit yourself, Loop. I think you could drink gallons from Poison Lake and be none the worse for the wear, though.
Lupe went over the crest of a little saddle, and there it was. Charmingly named Poison Lake, dead ahead! Loop went right on down to the shore, but did not wet her whistle. The view was reassuring. Yeah, Loopster shouldn’t have any problem getting around the S side of the lake. That was welcome news! Poison Lake had been a potentially serious obstacle.
Lupe reaches the NE shore of enticing Poison Lake. Photo looks SW.Views from the NE shore were reassuring. The terrain around the S side of the lake looked easy enough. Lupe would be able to get around Poison Lake, contrary to SPHP’s unwarranted fears. Photo looks SSW.
Lupe headed S through the forest close to the E shore of the lake. The steepest terrain was near the SE end of Poison Lake. Lupe had to climb some distance above the shoreline. She came upon a big rock platform with a great view of the lake. Loop could even see Wind River Peak from here!
The sky was finally clearing. The day was brighter, more cheerful, and pleasantly warm. The mosquitoes, which had been bad until now, were less troublesome on the big rock. Plan B was going well, much better than SPHP had feared. Time for a break to celebrate Lupe’s success in reaching this lovely spot!
Lupe and SPHP lingered on the big rock overlooking Poison Lake for close to half an hour, enjoying the views and successful execution of Plan B to this point.
Lupe reaches the big rock platform at the SSE end of Poison Lake. Photo looks WNW.Wind River Peak (in the distance on the L) was visible from the big rock at Poison Lake. Photo looks NNW.
When break time was over, Lupe and SPHP continued the rest of the way around the S side of Poison Lake to the W shore. Lupe then began following Tayo Creek farther upstream. SPHP had hoped Loop would find a way across the stream beyond Poison Lake, but those hopes were quickly dashed.
The whole valley was boggy anywhere near Tayo Creek. The creek was smooth surfaced again as it flowed through nearly level terrain. The stream was so wide, it was hard to tell where Poison Lake ended and Tayo Creek began.
Beyond the main body of Poison Lake was this wide channel which might still have been part of the lake. Photo looks NNE.Looking back at Poison Lake. The rock Loop was on in the previous photo is seen below on the R where the snow is. Photo looks NE.
Eventually Tayo Creek narrowed down enough so it was clear Loop was beyond Poison Lake. She finally came to a place where relatively dry ground went almost all the way to the creek’s edge. Loop and SPHP both made it onto a big white rock where it was possible to peer down into the water.
Good heavens! The water was very clear, but remarkably deep. It was easily over SPHP’s head, and perhaps twice that depth.
Lupe by Tayo Creek upstream from Poison Lake. Loop & SPHP both made it out to the big white rock at Center. From there Lupe could peer down into the clear, cold water. Tayo Creek’s depth was easily over SPHP’s head here! The rocky hill at Center in the distance is High Point 10,662. Photo looks WSW.
Since crossing Tayo Creek was still totally out of the question, Lupe pressed on. She had to stay quite a distance from the stream channel due to surrounding bogs. Looper traveled mostly in the forest or along its edge. The Carolina Dog was making progress, but even the hillsides were soaking wet now. Rivulets of snow melt ran down every ravine, and pooled in every low spot.
Often it was advantageous to travel over huge snowdrifts at the forest’s edge. Usually the drifts held even SPHP’s weight. For Lupe, they were Dingo super highways. As SPHP marched onward, Lupe dashed about the forest in a relentless search for the next squirrel to annoy, frequently enjoying success.
Nearly a mile from Poison Lake, Lupe finally reached a major obstacle. A stream much larger than any other tributaries of Tayo Creek she had come to so far cascaded down rocky rapids from the S. This had to be the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake.
Nearly a mile SW of Poison Lake, Lupe reaches a major tributary of Tayo Creek cascading down from Mountain Sheep Lake.
Crossing the tributary from Mountain Sheep Lake was an absolute necessity. Success would be a huge step forward in the divide and conquer plan. Failure meant defeat plain and simple – Lupe would have to turn back without ever having reached Wind River Peak.
Loop had reached the tributary at a bad spot. It didn’t look safe to cross here. The search began for a better place. The American Dingo needed to find one fast. The map showed that Mountain Sheep Lake probably wasn’t any more than 0.1 mile away. If Lupe reached the lake without finding a decent ford, it was all over.
The luck of the Dingo was with her! Going upstream, Lupe soon came to a place where the rocks were smaller. The creek spread out widely and evenly without deep spots. She could do this!
Lucky Lupe finds a decent place to ford the creek coming down from Mountain Sheep Lake. Photo looks SW.
Lupe had no problem fording the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake all by herself. This success was a huge boost to her chances of reaching Wind River Peak. Once across, Loop and SPHP turned NW. Tayo Lake wasn’t much more than 1.5 miles away now!
Before long, Lupe could see a signpost sticking up out of a snowbank ahead. She’d reached a trail junction! Both trails were hidden beneath the snow, but one sign pointing W was for Trail No. 705 to Coon Lake. The other sign was for Trail No. 707 to Tayo Lake!
Lupe came to this signpost sticking up out of the snow at the intersection of Trail No. 705 to Coon Lake and Trail No. 707 to Tayo Lake. Although both trails were hidden beneath snow, just getting to them was a huge psychological boost! Photo looks N.
Beyond the snowbank, Lupe found the actual trail to Tayo Lake. She quickly lost it again beneath more snow, and was almost immediately confronted with another big stream. This was the tributary of Tayo Creek coming down from Crow Lake to the W. After searching around in a bog not far from the trail intersection, Lupe found a way across this relatively large stream, too. More progress!
A steady climb NW through the forest began as Loop forged ahead looking for the trail to Tayo Lake. It took a while to find it again. Even once it was found, it was hard to keep it that way. The trail was a fairly minor single track here. It kept disappearing beneath more snow, or disguising itself as a small stream.
Trail No. 707 toTayo Lake was hard to follow. It kept disappearing beneath snow drifts and disguising itself as a small stream.
About 0.5 mile from the trail intersection, the terrain leveled out. Trail No. 707 hardly existed here, but cairns showed Lupe was still on the right track. She was getting close to the final big creek crossing. Fording Tayo Creek could be delayed no longer.
0.5 mile NW of the trail intersection where Lupe had seen the signpost, the terrain leveled out. Here she’s standing next to one of the cairns showing she was still on the right track. Photo looks WNW.Looking NNW toward Wind River Peak (L of Center).
Trail No. 707 was nowhere in sight when Lupe reached Tayo Creek again. A cairn on the opposite N shore showed that this was the ford, though. The creek was greatly reduced from the torrent it had been miles downstream. Divide and conquer had worked! SPHP waded across.
The trail was nowhere in sight when Lupe reached a much reduced Tayo Creek again. This was the right spot, though. A cairn for Trail No. 707 is in view on the far shore sitting on the snow to the R. Photo looks NE.
Even though Tayo Creek was greatly reduced, the water was still over Lupe’s head by the S bank where she reached it. An icy plunge into the swift stream was still intimidating. SPHP encouraged her to come, but Looper sat forlornly on the far bank looking worried.
Lupe had been doing great, but yet another icy plunge into a stream that was still over her head was intimidating. She did not follow SPHP across, and did not respond to encouragement. Photo looks SSW.
Poor Loopster was afraid. How many scary, icy river crossings did she have to make in a single day, anyway? SPHP decided to go help her, and turned around momentarily to drop the backpack. Even more afraid of being abandoned than she was of Tayo Creek, Loop plunged in and crossed all by herself. What a trooper!
Lupe’s climb resumed up a forested hill. Once again, the terrain soon leveled out. Up ahead, beyond a boggy plain, Loop saw a snowy saddle. That saddle was where Tayo Creek flows out of Tayo Lake. Lupe was almost there!
Across a small boggy plain, Lupe could see a snowy saddle (L). That saddle was where Tayo Creek flows out of Tayo Lake. Lupe was almost there! Wind River Peak is seen on the R. Photo looks NW.Following cairns across the boggy plain toward the snowy saddle. Photo looks NW.
After crossing the bog, Lupe started climbing. She stayed NE of the snowy saddle following avalanche tracks through a stunted forest. Views behind her improved rapidly as Loop gained elevation. The view of Mt. Nystrom(12,356 ft.) was particularly impressive.
As Lupe made the final climb to Tayo Lake, the views behind her to the S improved rapidly. Mt. Nystrom (Center) was particularly impressive. Photo looks S.Mt. Nystrom (R of Center) from near Tayo Lake. Photo looks S.
Finally, 250 feet above the boggy plain, Lupe saw her objective – Tayo Lake! Plan B – Divide & Conquer had worked! Despite what SPHP had thought were poor odds, Lupe had made it. She was really here!
Tayo Lake was absolutely gorgeous! A layer of snow and ice floated on most of its surface. Impressive rock walls guarded the S and W shores. Two miles N, and nearly 2,500 feet higher, Wind River Peak(13,192 ft.) beckoned. Tomorrow Lupe would have a chance to climb it. For the first time, her prospects for success suddenly seemed bright!
After gaining 250 feet of elevation from the boggy plain, suddenly Lupe was at gorgeous Tayo Lake!Upon reaching Tayo Lake (L), Lupe’s prospects for success climbing Wind River Peak (R) tomorrow suddenly seemed bright. Photo looks NW.Despite what SPHP had regarded as poor odds, Divide & Conquer had worked! Lupe rests on a grassy shelf with a great view of Tayo Lake. The Tayo Creek outlet is below on the L. Photo looks W.Beautiful Tayo Lake in the Wind River Range, WY. Photo looks WNW.
To the N & E of Tayo Lake, a long, broad ridge rose steadily toward the NW. Parts of the ridge were covered with stunted forests, but most of it was open ground. To further improve the chances of a successful ascent of Wind River Peak tomorrow, Lupe and SPHP started up the ridge.
From the broad ridge, Lupe could soon see a large waterfall plunging into a canyon to the E.
Continuing up a broad ridge NE of Tayo Lake, Lupe soon had a view of a large waterfall plunging into a canyon to the E. Photo looks ENE.The same waterfall with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe climbed more than 400 feet above Tayo Lake to a flat part of the ridge straight N of the lake. Although the afternoon had been mostly sunny, rain showers were now threatening. SPHP didn’t put up Lupe’s “tiny house” right away. Instead, Lupe and SPHP took a tour of the ridge to see the sights. An even higher mini-Tayo Lake, Lake 11,145, was in view to the W.
Rain showers were threatening as Lupe approached a flat part of the ridge 400 feet above and straight N of Tayo Lake. Photo looks WNW.From the ridge N of Tayo Lake, Lupe could see another beautiful little lake. Lake 11,145 was tucked beneath a wall of rock that reminded SPHP faintly of the famed Cirque of the Towers, also in the Wind River Range 8 miles to the NW. Photo looks WNW.Looking down on Tayo Lake from the ridge to the N. Mt. Nystrom(12,356 ft.) is on the horizon (Center). Photo looks SSE.
It was early evening and had been another long day. Lupe and SPHP were weary. Both curled up together beside a big rock where there was a grand view of Tayo Lake 400 feet below. The rock had an overhang offering partial protection from any rain showers. Drowsiness set in. Before long, Lupe and SPHP were completely out it.
The nap was helpful. When it was over, the sky was clearer. Lupe and SPHP set off to the N on top of the ridge looking for a place to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house”. A good spot was hard to find. Although it looked grassy, the ridge was actually rather rocky and dotted with boulders. Finally Lupe came to a place at around 11,250 feet elevation where the ground was lumpy, but not rocky. This would do.
SPHP put up the tiny house. Lupe had a great view of Lake 11,145 to the W from here. She could see Wind River Peak to the N. It was supposed to be more than 2,000 feet higher, but didn’t look that high. No doubt that was an illusion. Tayo Lake wasn’t in sight, but a 500 or 600 foot stroll to the S was all it took for a grand view.
Lupe rests beside her “tiny house” pitched at 11,250 ft. elevation. Mt. Nystrom is in view (L of Center). Photo looks SSE.The view of Lake 11,145 from the tiny house. Photo looks WNW.
What a day it had been! Lupe had tons of fun racing around the woods barking at squirrels. She had forded 4 major streams, countless small creeks, crossed numerous soggy bogs and huge snow drifts, climbed on rocks, and traveled many a mile. Divide and Conquer had worked! The Carolina Dog was now in position for an ascent of Wind River Peak tomorrow.
She’d had hardly anything to eat all day, though. Part of a Cliff bar and a single bowl of Taste of the Wild. Didn’t matter. Lupe was too tired to eat. The sun wasn’t down quite yet, but Loop was ready to go inside her “tiny house” and curl up on her sleeping bag.
Outside, clouds were gathering. A few raindrops struck the tiny house. SPHP pulled some of her sleeping bag over the exhausted Carolina Dog.
So far, so good, Loopster. You did great again today, sweet Dingo! Just hope we don’t get drenched tonight.
Lupe didn’t hear it. She was already in Dingo dreamland still barking happily at all those lovely squirrels.
One tired puppy snoozing in her “tiny house” at 11,250 feet 1.5 miles SSE of Wind River Peak, WY 7-10-17.
August 28-30, 2012, Days 21-23 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.
As soon as Lanis woke up; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP would hit the road again. In the meantime, Lupe and SPHP took a little stroll. For SPHP, it had been a restless night trying to sleep sitting up in the Element. This car camping business was starting to get pretty old. Lupe, of course, was always fresh as a daisy, since she could stretch out and relax on her mountain of pillows and blankets in the back of the Element.
Last night’s car camping was SPHP’s own fault for being so stubborn. Lupe’s tiny house could have been set up back at the Farewell Bend State Recreation Area in Oregon. Instead, SPHP got persnickety about bureaucracy and regulations, and had Lanis keep driving. Lupe had made it as far as Boise, Idaho before stopping for the night.
Oh, well. It didn’t matter now, the night was over. On the bright side, SPHP had saved $18-22. When Lupe and SPHP got back to the Element, a bleary-eyed Lanis was at least conscious. He was soon pressed back into chauffer service driving SE on I-84. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left I-84 at Mountain Home taking Hwy 20. Hwy 20 started out winding NE into the S end of a very dry looking mountain range.
The sky had been a little smoky in Boise, but along Hwy 20 the smoke was much thicker. The smoke got denser and denser until it was like being in a fog. Lanis started expecting to see the actual flames of a forest fire around any bend, but it didn’t happen. Way back in the early days of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation, back at the Beartooth Mountains in Wyoming, the sky had been smoky then, too, but never this bad. Apparently the fires in Idaho had been burning all this time.
Southern ID was hot, dry, barren and smoky. The skies weren’t nearly so smoky, though, as Lupe started getting close to Craters of the Moon National Monument.
The skies were much clearer by the time Lupe reached Craters of the Moon National Monument. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP stopped briefly near the visitor center. Lanis went inside, and soon returned with the unsurprising news that Dingoes aren’t allowed on any of the trails. Well, that was that! Lupe made a few more stops at pullouts along Hwy 20 for photos, but she really didn’t get to do anything at Craters of the Moon.
Lava flow at Craters of the Moon National Monument.
Lupe continued on. Idaho remained hot and parched until Lupe reached Idaho Falls. E of Idaho Falls on Hwy 26, the scenery improved steadily. It was much greener here near the high mountains. By early evening, Lupe reached the fabulous Wind River Range near Pinedale, Wyoming. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP took Skyline Drive up to Elkhart Park for a look around.
From viewpoints along Skyline Drive, Lupe saw two big lakes, Half Moon Lake and Freemont Lake, formed by the retreat of large glaciers ages ago. Near Elkhart Park was a pullout along the road with a sweeping view of the central portion of the mighty Wind River Range. SPHP recognized Fremont Peak(13,745 ft.), one of many visible along the Continental Divide.
Half Moon Lake from Skyline Drive near Pinedale, WY 8-28-12Half Moon LakeFremont Lake near Pinedale, WY from Skyline Drive. Photo looks S. At 8 or 9 miles long, Freemont Lake is the largest of a series of a series of big lakes along the S side of the Wind River Range left behind by the retreat of large glaciers.Lanis near Skyline Drive above Fremont Lake. Although the S end of the lake extends well out of the mountains, the N end of the lake is nestled in among them. This photo looks NNW.Looking W across Fremont Lake.Looking N at the Wind River Range in Wyoming from a viewpoint along Skyline Drive near Elkhart Park.Freemont Peak along the Continental Divide from a viewpoint along Skyline Drive near Elkhart Park. Photo looks NE.
After going up to Elkhart Park and back down again, Lanis and SPHP pitched Lupe’s tiny house at the Fremont Lake campground. The campsite was some distance away from the lake. Lanis and SPHP feasted on sandwiches after a quick run in to Subway in Pinedale. Both Lanis and SPHP were feeling pretty tired, and looking forward to a night stretched out in Lupe’s tiny house.
Lupe wasn’t tired, though. She’d spent most of the last two days and nights cooped up in the Element. Lupe was bursting with energy! She was very happy to be out sniffing every tree and bush around. She was finally getting to do Dingo stuff again! With great enthusiasm, she raised a ruckus over each and every squirrel. Slowly the sun went down. Twilight faded. The squirrels went to bed. It still took a lot of persuading from SPHP to get Lupe into the tiny house and settled down for the night.
SPHP woke up. It was still early. Like dark out with the stars still shining early. SPHP had no idea what time it was, but felt better. Lupe was instantly awake, too. Lupe and SPHP stole out of her tiny house and into the night. Fifteen minutes later, Lupe and SPHP reached the dock down by the boat ramp. Fremont Lake sits at around 7,400 feet elevation. Overhead, the Milky Way was blazing in a cloudless night sky. The brightest stars reflected clearly in the still lake.
To the E, SPHP saw Sagittarius, Venus and just a hint of light. Dawn was coming. The night sky was gorgeous, but it was probably best to get a little more sleep. Lupe and SPHP returned to rejoin Lanis in Lupe’s tiny house. Well, at least SPHP did. Lupe had other ideas. She wouldn’t go in the tent. SPHP tried to rest while listening for the tinkling sound of Lupe’s tag as she sniffed around outside.
It worked for a little while. Lupe was sniffing around out there pretty close to the tiny house. As it grew lighter though, the squirrels started waking up. Sniffing became growling. Pretty soon the growling was barking. Just occasionally at first, but the barking sprees lengthened. SPHP had to get up, or Lupe would succeed in getting evicted from the campground.
Lanis was pretty played out. After successive long days driving, he was just plain zonked. It was light out now. The sun came up and rose high in the sky. Lanis snoozed on. Lupe and SPHP made a couple more trips down to Fremont Lake. There was a little beach near the dock and boat ramp. Lupe went wading. SPHP watched minnows swimming near the shore.
Fremont Lake, Wind River Range, WYLupe wades in Fremont Lake.
It was almost lunch time when Lanis finally regained consciousness. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP drove down to the Lakeside Lodge, Resort & Marina at the very S end of Fremont Lake. The resort features a restaurant with both inside and outside dining available. Next to Fremont Lake, there was a large deck with tables shaded by big umbrellas. Beyond the lake was a gorgeous panoramic view of high peaks of the Wind River Range.
It was sort of busy. The clientele looked upscale. Lanis and SPHP were in rather disreputable condition. There was an open table, though, at the far edge of the deck separated a little bit from the rest of the guests. The wait staff was willing to serve mangy Lanis and SPHP. Lupe was even allowed to rest on the deck at SPHP’s feet. On Lupe’s entire 2012 Dingo Vacation, this was the only time Lupe, Lanis and SPHP actually got to eat at a restaurant. It was wonderful!
Lanis and SPHP both ordered big burgers. They were great! SPHP stealthily slipped some burger down to Lupe. Everyone was happy. The scenery was magnificent. It was a relaxing, beautiful time.
After the glorious lunch by Fremont Lake; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went into Pinedale for a little while. SPHP hoped to find a good map of the mountains to look at. There was a USFS map posted outside a forest service office near the grocery store. SPHP studied it for a few minutes while Lanis was in the grocery store. Lupe was on a leash right there with SPHP.
Lupe and SPHP were both about ready to leave, when an overly helpful ranger came along. The ranger almost insisted that SPHP come inside for more information, and a cheerful lecture on a blizzard of federal rules certain to enhance any wilderness experience.
Rule No. 1, of course, was that Dingoes couldn’t come in the building. Why just the other day, some Grand Poo-Bah supervisor from the District of Bureaucracy had sent out an email on the importance of never allowing a Dingo to set paw in any forest service building.
Lanis was waiting at the Element by the time Lupe and SPHP extracted themselves from all the helpful assistance. At least SPHP had seen enough of the map to have a pretty good idea where to go. Since the day was off to a rather late start, the best day hike without a map to bring along with was probably to take the well-traveled Pole Creek trail up at Elkhart Park.
Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went back up to Elkhart Park. The trailhead was already at 9,350 feet elevation, so Lupe was going to get to see some pretty high country. The Pole Creek trail started off heading SE as it went up the Pole Creek drainage. The trail was wide and well-worn. It gained elevation steadily, but at a moderate pace.
The area was almost all forested. There were squirrels in the trees. Lupe got to run, and run, and run. She had a fantastic time. The trail eventually turned NE, and then gained elevation more slowly. Lupe began to encounter clearings in the forest and little ponds. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP made it as far as Photographer’s Point(10,400 ft.). There was a huge panoramic view to the N.
Lupe reaches Photographer’s Point in the Wind River Range with muddy paws from wading in a pond.Looking NW at the Wind River Range from Photographer’s Point. Wow, there’s a lot of rock out there!Looking NE from Photographer’s Point. Fremont Peak is on the R. The lake partially in view is probably Gorge Lake.
The inspiring view from Photographer’s Point just made SPHP want to go farther. There were lakes nearby that SPHP had seen earlier on the map posted outside the forest service office in Pinedale. Lupe is always game to do more, but Lanis was ready to call it a day. However, even though Lanis really did need to get back to Indiana very soon, he did agree to spend another day in the Wind Rivers.
So Lupe didn’t go any farther into the Wind River range than Photographer’s Point. With an earlier start the next day, she could, though! After spending some time admiring the sweeping views; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP returned along the Pole Creek trail.
The sun was getting low in a cloudless sky, by the time Lupe reached the Element again back at Elkhart Park . A little while later, Lanis and SPHP crawled into sleeping bags in Lupe’s tiny house near Fremont Lake. Lupe curled up for a snooze, too. Tomorrow was going to be an even bigger day spent in the spectacular Wind River range!
After midnight, there was a sound that Lupe, Lanis and SPHP had rarely heard on Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation. Raindrops on Lupe’s tiny house! Not too many, but some. SPHP took a look outside. No stars in any direction. The whole black sky must have been overcast. Not good. The tent was old, and had always leaked. The raindrops came in little spurts. No big deal, if it stayed like this. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP tried to ignore it and go back to sleep.
For at least a couple of hours, the rain was sporadic and light. Gradually the intensity was increasing, though. Water started dripping inside Lupe’s tiny house. SPHP remained hopeful that the rain would hold off until dawn, when it would be possible to get a good look at the sky and assess the outlook. More rain came, harder too. As the tent started leaking more, Lanis and SPHP sat up talking about what to do. Stick it out and wait for dawn, or pack things up before everything got soaked?
Nature decided. Suddenly there was a volley of intense rain, with big drops. Lupe got hustled into the Element. Lanis and SPHP scrambled to take down her tiny house for the last time. Everything got pitched into the Element. Very suddenly, Lupe’s grand 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast was over.
The rain became light and steady as Lupe left Pinedale and the Wind River range behind her. On the way to Farson, the first light of dawn appeared and began spreading along the E horizon. Before reaching Farson, Lanis drove out of the rain. Back to the NW, clouds still hung over the Wind River range. The rain showers were likely just local. Lupe could probably have gone back, and spent another day exploring the Winds.
The decision had already been made, though. On the 23rd day of her first ever Dingo Vacation, after more than 5,000 miles, 5 states, and 3 weeks of adventures, Lupe was going home.
Another two hours passed before she arrived back at her “tiny house”. Although Wind River Peak didn’t look 2,000 feet higher from here, it most certainly was. Lupe and SPHP could both vouch for that now. At least 4 hours of daylight remained, but it had been another strenuous long day already. Lupe joined SPHP inside her tiny house for a needed nap.
