Montana – Page 5 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana (8-15-20)

Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-14-20, Daybreak, 32ºF, Upper Taylor Fork trailhead, Madison Range, MT – Just getting light out. The sun wouldn’t be up for a while yet. Jobe was up already, busily rearranging gear in his Rubicon when SPHP came to. Lupe sniffed excitedly, raring to go as soon as SPHP let her out of the G6. Maybe she was expecting another Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) outing?

That wasn’t in the cards, a travel day was. Wasn’t long before Jobe was ready. Handshakes and pawshakes, and he was off. The G6 followed the Rubicon across the bridge over Taylor Creek a minute later. For 3 snail-paced bumpy miles, the Koch Peak adventure was sort of still on. Wasn’t until the turn E into the rising sun on Taylor Fork Road that SPHP was certain the G6 wouldn’t pop a tire.

At Hwy 191, SPHP turned N down the Gallatin River valley. Heavy traffic even this early in the day. At I-90, the G6 headed W. Jobe was long gone. His adventures were taking him E to Billings tonight. Been fun, but Lupe wouldn’t see her friend Jobe Wymore again this year. The Carolina Dog was off for parts unknown! W of Butte, SPHP turned S on I-15. Never been here before! Let the next adventure begin!

8-14-20, 11:40 AM, Hwy 43 – The Big Hole River was plenty wide, but not terribly deep. Peering into the water, the rocks forming the river bottom were all slimy and green, thick with long strands of algae swaying in the current. Slippery! Lupe did not venture in, preferring to admire the river’s sparkling surface from a dry rock.

Hwy 43 ended at a “T” intersection with Hwy 93 at Lost Trail Pass along the Idaho – Montana border. Sticking with Montana, SPHP turned N. At Conner came a L (W) turn on West Fork Road, a shortcut which crossed both the E and W Forks of the Bitterroot River en route to Hwy 473.

Not far now! Heading SW on Hwy 473 for a couple of miles, an access point for the W Fork of the Bitterroot River appeared on the L just before the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center came into view on the R. Another 0.5 mile, and the highway crossed Trapper Creek. Immediately beyond it was a sign for a R turn saying “Forest Access Baker Lake”.

8-14-20, 1:21 PM, W Fork of the Bitterroot River – Lupe waded in the cool, clear cool waters of the Bitterroot River. No slimy green algae coating the rocks here! Every pebble on the bottom stood out in crisp, watery relief. SPHP waded in with the Carolina Dog for a few minutes, but she was soon more interested in a squirrel scolding her from the trees above the riverbank than cooling off.

**W Fork of the Bitterroot River** at the access point across Hwy 473 from the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center.

SPHP relaxed on a tiny sandy beach. It had been too early to want to head up to the Baker Lake trailhead, so upon finding the access road, SPHP had simply turned around. Tempting to take a swim, but the trip journal needed attention. Two hours listening to the soothing rippling waters zoomed by. Loop would have preferred to continue the squirrel siege, but really hadn’t been making any progress with it. In any case, it was time to move on.

According to the topo map, the Baker Lake access road left Hwy 473 as USFS Road No. 363. After crossing a big meadow, proof appeared on the R as the road turned up into the trees.

A mile from the highway, a big sign at a junction with Baker Lloyd Road (No. 5629) said 9 miles to the Baker Lake trail. SPHP continued straight, sticking with No. 363, which by now was climbing steadily and getting both washboardy and very dusty.

At the junction with Baker Lloyd Road, which isn’t the way to go.

Another mile on No. 363 led to a spot where roads curved both L and R. Directly ahead on a hillside was a “363”, apparently meant for the road going off to the L. Instead, SPHP made a sharp R turn onto a road with a small sign saying “5634” with a hiking symbol below it.

The 8 miles on USFS Road No. 5634 were an adventure of their own! Nearly the entire way the road wound crazily or made long switchbacks along a steep forested slope. The rate of climb was never worrisome, in fact, parts of the route were level or close to it, yet the whole drive was unnerving, especially where openings appeared in the forest. It was then possible to see the plunging mountainside and a vast airy expanse over to mountains miles to the E, mountains no higher than where the G6 now crept cautiously along.

However, the true source of anxiety was the extreme narrowness of the road, which produced a greatly heightened sense of always being on the brink. No. 5634 was fine for one vehicle, but what if another was met on its way down the mountain? The prospect of having to back down for who knew how far was dreadful, yet it must happen all the time.

An answer came 3 miles into the journey. A vehicle did appear coming the other way. Luck of the Dingo! A Jeep! No way two vehicles could pass on the road at this point, but the Jeep pulled almost entirely off the road leaning at a 40º angle on the uphill slope. The G6 squeezed past.

Onward! G6, ho!

Should have come up earlier in the day! 3 more times vehicles appeared heading down. Luckily, all these instances occurred at points where it actually was possible to sneak by, the only abuse suffered by the G6 the rude scraping of tree branches along the passenger side.

8-14-20, 4:02 PM, Baker Lake trailhead – The Baker Lake trailhead proved to be little more than a long wide spot where USFS Road No. 5634 simply dead-ended. Room enough to carefully turn around, if the joint wasn’t too overrun already, which it might have been if those 4 vehicles that had already departed had still been up here.

SPHP did turn around, parking the G6 facing back out as close to the exit as possible. Might help avoid getting hemmed in when the time came to depart! An hour after leaving Hwy 473, the American Dingo hopped out. If Loopster was as relieved as SPHP to finally be here, she gave no indication of it.

A short stroll past pickups and SUV’s to the end of the road led to the usual display of rules and regulations, but little of interest specific to this location. Hours yet until the sun would set, but here on the E side of the mountain, much was already in shadow. 20 feet beyond the display, a well-worn single track trail curved up into the sullen deep green gloom of tall densely-packed conifers.

The evening wore on. By nightfall, only 5 vehicles remained.

**Baker Lake trailhead** at the end of USFS Road No. 5634. Photo looks N.

8-15-20, 7:55 AM, 52ºF, Baker Lake trailhead – Morning sunlight filtering through the trees completely dispelled yesterday’s gloom as Lupe set off for Baker Lake on Trail No. 234. The trail began with a short steep climb W or SW through thick forest before leveling out as it turned S. Upon reaching a small clearing, the trail started switchbacking higher. Before long, Looper came to a huge rock formation out in a larger opening.

This must be Baker Point! Lupe scrambled partway up for a look. Kind of hazy out, especially to the E.

About to set out from the **Baker Lake trailhead**. Photo looks S.

At Baker Point, Lupe reached the start of a broad ridge sloping slowly, but steadily higher. The trail headed WNW along this ridge passing through a more open forest of younger trees. After gaining perhaps 200 feet of elevation, the trail left the ridgeline to head more directly W or WSW along a slope N of the Baker Creek valley, flattening out as it did so, and even losing elevation in spots.

Glimpses of the ridge to the SW that Lupe ultimately needed to get over to began appearing. Eventually, Loop caught sight of towering cliffs on the E face of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.), too.

The ridge on the L leads to Trapper Peak. Photo looks SW.

**East Trapper Peak** (R). Photo looks WSW.

After losing 80 feet of elevation, a big opening was reached on the N (R) side of the trail. This region contained many huge rocks that had long ago crumbled ago from the ridge the trail had abandoned, the top of which was now in sight at least 100 feet higher.

Below the ridge the trail had abandoned. Photo looks N.

From this low point, the trail began climbing again as it wound among boulders and tree roots in an older forest. Close to Baker Lake exposed slabs of rounded bedrock appeared. With so much rock about, the forest was more dispersed. Upon reaching Baker Creek, Loop crossed a bridge of three small logs before following the stream to its source.

Boulders, tree roots, and an older, denser forest en route to Baker Lake.

Slabs of bedrock appeared shortly before reaching Baker Lake. Photo looks N.

Crossing the 3 log bridge over **Baker Creek**.

**Baker Creek** was small, but quite scenic flowing over exposed bedrock.

Lupe found Baker Lake tucked away in a spectacular setting! Large rock formations bordered the E and S shores, and magnificent mature forests encircled the lake wherever sufficient soil was present. Huge protective ridges pressed in from the N and S, and off to the W was a splendid view of the E face of East Trapper Peak. Mirror smooth, the lake doubled the grandeur of its surroundings in near perfect reflections.

**Baker Lake**. **East Trapper Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks W.

Another angle. **East Trapper Peak** (R). Photo Looks WSW.

**East Trapper Peak** from **Baker Lake**. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Evidently, Baker Lake is a popular destination. Exploring boulders and bedrock along the E shore, Lupe saw colorful tents and hammocks both nearby, and over on the W side of the lake. However, getting to Baker Lake was merely a good start to the day for the peakbagging Dingo.

Trapper Peak (10,157 ft.) was Lupe’s destination. Unseen, except for the E summit, Trapper Peak was still another 2,300+ feet higher and 2 miles away. There was actually an official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 that came up the mountain’s humongous SE ridge, but the Baker Lake route that Lupe was taking was shorter, more scenic, and required 640 feet less elevation gain.

The whole trick to making the Baker Lake route work was to get up onto the ridge S of the lake, which was merely a different part of the same SE ridge the official trail went up. However, the topo map showed the N face of this ridge being very steep for 200+ feet. Didn’t look so bad from here at the lake, though. Lupe headed for it, staying somewhat E of the lake following an easy route higher along bedrock slabs.

The ridge Lupe had to get up onto as seen from **Baker Lake**. The route up is just to the R of the big pine tree at L. Photo looks SSW.

On the bedrock slabs heading for the **E end of the ridge** (Center). This region is **SSE of Baker Lake**. Much better than going due S from the lake. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP had previously seen GPS tracks of routes others had successfully tried from Baker Lake. Nearly all of them went up toward the lower E end of the part of the ridge closest to the lake. A shaded area full of trees could be seen between two cliffy spots as Lupe got closer. Figuring this was the way to go, suspicions were soon confirmed by the discovery of a use trail near the bottom of the slope.

*Aim for the **dark area** (L of Center) between the cliffy spots!* Photo looks S.

At the base of the climb, which is just to the R of these cliffs. Photo looks SSE.

The slope the use trail went up was steep, very steep, but not all that rocky. SPHP clung to trees, branches, bushes – basically whatever was available, whenever available. With 4 on the floor, Loopster had no trouble. Near the top, the rate of climb diminished. Gonna make it!

Getting close to the top. Photo looks S.

Made in the shade! The use trail flattens out just beyond Lupe. Photo looks SSE.

Up on top, a large pile of deadfall was near the big flat spot where the use trail came up. The use trail turned R here, heading W just S of a line of cliffs. However, before going that way, Lupe scrambled over some of the deadfall to a rocky high point visible just a little to the NE. This high point featured several large dead trees, and was a terrific viewpoint. Baker Lake could be seen from here, as well as both East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.) and North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.).

At the viewpoint NE of where the use trail reached the ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.

**Baker Lake** (Center) from above. Photo looks N.

**East Trapper Peak** (L) and **North Trapper Peak** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Reaching the ridgeline meant that the only tricky part of the ascent was over, but the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go. Returning to the use trail, she now followed it W through a forest different from the one down by Baker Lake. Up here, the trees were smaller, more spaced out, and many were dead.

Following the use trail higher. Photo looks WNW.

The use trail gained elevation at an easy to moderate pace that didn’t vary much. Every now and then, Lupe ventured N to the edge of the cliffs to check out the views. She finally came to a point where Middle Lake was in sight, along with just a glimpse of Gem Lake above it.

**Middle Lake** (near Lupe’s head). **East Trapper Peak** (L) and **North Trapper Peak** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Close to this viewpoint, the terrain steepened as Loop climbed a ridge of light-colored talus. These rocks tended to be flattish, which made them an easier scramble than they might otherwise have been. Lichens gave all the rocks on top of the ridge a mottled dark gray and light green cast.

This ridge was HP8768 on the topo map. Ahead was a chasm due to a large notch in the main ridge, and a terrific view of East Trapper Peak.

Climbing the light-colored talus ridge. Photo looks W.

**East Trapper Peak** (R) from **HP8768**. Photo looks W.

Lupe now had to veer SW along the talus ridge to avoid the chasm. The talus slowed things down, but eventually played out. Back in the forest, Loop soon turned W again, quickly regaining the elevation she’d lost leaving HP8768 and more.

By now the use trail was intermittent, but the overall route was clear. The open forest and moderate pace of climb made travel relatively easy. Lupe kept heading W, constantly gaining elevation. Eventually the line of cliffs to the N began to curve NW.

A high point of light-colored rocks now appeared near the edge, but the terrain steepened rapidly in that direction, and a young densely-packed forest made attaining that high point difficult. Abandoning the attempt to follow the cliffs any farther, Lupe took a course more to the WNW.

The forest soon began to thin. Suddenly it ended. A few thin lines of stunted trees ran down a long slope of scattered rocks and loose soil. Directly ahead were several distant high points.

*Oh, I think that’s it, SPHP! **Trapper Peak** (L)*! Photo looks WNW.

Wandering higher on the vast open slope beyond the forest, Lupe now had views of mountains to the SW. A ridge of dark stone appeared to the N, the summit of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.). Instead of going to it, the American Dingo aimed for the saddle leading to Trapper Peak.

In the open on **Trapper Peak’s vast SE slope**. **HP9587** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

Below **East Trapper Peak’s summit ridge**. Photo looks N.

On the way to the saddle, Lupe came across the official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 bound for the same destination. By then, she didn’t have much farther to go. The broad flat saddle between East Trapper Peak and Trapper Peak proved to be terrain similar to the giant slope Looper had just come up, a rock-strewn plain of gritty loose soil and short, sparse vegetation.

Approaching **Trapper Peak**. Trail No. 133 (R). Photo looks W.

**East Trapper Peak** from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

Before heading for Trapper Peak’s summit, Lupe ventured over to the N edge of the saddle. Here, beyond a giant cirque, was a tremendous view of a series of rugged peaks and jagged ridges extending from North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.) all the way to El Capitan (9,983 ft.).

**El Capitan** (far L) and **North Trapper Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

At the W end of the saddle, the official Trapper Peak trail vanished as far as SPHP could tell. Two high points were visible ahead, the more distant one clearly higher than than the one Lupe faced at the moment. Gonna be slow going! All talus from here on.

At the W end of the saddle, approaching the talus-covered slopes leading to the summit. Photo looks W.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone along the entire Baker Lake route except right at Baker Lake, but the official Trapper Peak trail was busy. Hikers were coming and going. From here, most seemed to head W right over this first high point. Following their example, Looper did the same.

On the talus slope leading to the first high point. Photo looks W.

From the top, which turned out to be a series of mini high points along a talus ridge modestly higher toward the W, the next high point ahead was in full view. Definitely the true summit! Whether coming up onto this first ridge was really the best route or not seemed doubtful. At the W end, the American Dingo faced a short, but very steep down climb in big talus to get to a minor saddle leading to the final ascent.

Maybe it would have been better to stay lower simply skirting this ridge to the S? Hard to say. Didn’t matter now. Lupe did what she had to do.

**True summit of Trapper Peak** (Center) from the first high point. Photo looks WNW.

**East Trapper Peak** (L) from the **E end of the first high point**. Photo looks ENE.

At the **W end of the first high point** with the final ascent dead ahead! Getting down to the saddle leading to it was trickier than it looks. Photo looks NW.

8-15-20, 1:18 PM, Trapper Peak – Made it! Well, almost. Having scrambled up from the S, Lupe was now a little SW of the true summit, maybe 20 or 25 feet below it. Quite a few people around. Lots up on top. Still early, the Carolina Dog could wait for them to clear out. Time for a rest, anyway. Except for a bit of haziness, the weather was perfect.

Hah! That was SPHP’s opinion. The American Dingo was hot. While SPHP found a perch from which to enjoy the views, Loop searched for a comfortable spot with a bit of shade. None! Giving up on finding any, Lupe finally plunked herself down on a patch of dirt to pant and snap at flies. A couple bowls of water provided at least some relief.

*Don’t happen to have a parasol in that backpack, do you, SPHP?*

A little SW of where Lupe and SPHP were hanging out, an airy platform of rock provided a tremendous vantage point. Like the true summit, it was occupied. However, when it eventually opened up, Loop went over that way for a look around.

**Airy platform** (L) before it got vacated. Photo looks W.

Due to some big cracks, as close to the airy platform as Loop got. Photo looks W.

To the S and SW, Boulder Peak (9,804 ft.), East Boulder Peak (9,480 ft.) and HP9587 stood out. Beyond them a huge expanse of lesser peaks and ridges stretched to the horizon.

**HP9578** (L), **East Boulder Peak** (Center) and **Boulder Peak** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**HP9578**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Due N, and more than 2,500 feet lower, a good chunk of Cave Lake was visible. Sugarloaf Peak (9,586 ft.) towered a couple of ridges past it, while El Capitan (9,983 ft.) dominated the scene farther NNW.

**Cave Lake** (R of Center), **Sugarloaf Peak** (Center), & **El Capitan** (far L). Photo looks N.

**El Capitan**. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Summit from close to the airy platform. Photo looks NE.

People continually came and went. Most stayed up at the true summit only a little while before moving on, but a few lingered for a long time. Lupe was patient, but the summit was never unoccupied. More than 1.5 hours drifted by.

Alright. Ready or not, maybe it was time for action? Despite a couple in the middle of enjoying a picnic up there, SPHP encouraged Loopster to proceed. On a mountain this busy, complete privacy was a luxury.

*Guess we’re going to go barge in at the top now!* Photo looks NE.

Looking back on the way to the true summit. Photo looks WSW.

Looper got high, very high! But not quite all the way to the tippy top yet. East Trapper Peak was in view again, and so was the entire SE ridge that the official Trapper Peak trail comes up.

**East Trapper Peak** (L of Center) and the **first high point on the way up** (R of Center). Photo looks E.

Trail No. 133 comes up the long slope in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP kept inching closer to the picnickers. They finished eating, but the woman started calling people on her cell phone. Meanwhile, Loopster discovered a survey benchmark, and got up on one of the very highest rocks.

The first of 2 survey benchmarks Lupe found on Trapper Peak.

Just a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had been waiting for a turn on the summit rock for nearly 2 hours now. The couple was sitting right next to it. SPHP finally apologized for the intrusion, as Loop leapt up to the true summit. Close to the highest point, another survey benchmark was attached to this rock.

**True summit of Trapper Peak**. **El Capitan** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

*How’s this for a view? We’re higher than **El Capitan** (Center) and everything else around here!* Photo looks NW.

Fortunately, the couple was friendly. They didn’t mind Lupe being up here, too. The American Dingo took the liberty of going past them to get over to the best view of North and East Trapper Peaks.

**East Trapper Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

**North Trapper Peak** (L) and **East Trapper Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

More of the chasm between them. Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, the phone conversations quickly headed S. Suddenly, the woman was weeping as she spoke with her mother. Awkward, but the situation didn’t last. Trapper Peak’s joyful mood had been ruined for the couple. They left, heading down the mountain.

Sad that their Trapper Peak experience ended that way, but it worked for Lupe. For the first time she had the true summit all to herself. Still people not too far away, so the Carolina Dog better enjoy it while she could.

In dramatic solitude at the **true summit**! Photo looks NE.

More of the summit region. Photo looks NE.

Looking W with help from the telephoto lens.

8-15-20, 3:29 PM, Trapper Peak – The true summit photo shoot hadn’t taken long, but Loop had now been at or near the top of Trapper Peak for over 2 fabulous hours. So this was it, the inevitable moment of truth.

While the return was simply a matter of retracing the same basic Baker Lake route, Lupe changed things up a bit, making new discoveries and having new experiences along the way.

After scrambling down to the little saddle between Trapper Peak and the first high point to the E, Loop followed a trail S, losing elevation instead of going up and over that talus ridge. Once she turned E, cairns were all over the place, but still no path. Just a jumble of large talus, same as the ridgeline had been.

So, no matter which route was taken, it was simply a time-consuming talus trek over to the big saddle W of East Trapper Peak. Once Lupe got there, instead of jumping on the official Trapper Peak trail to start down the enormous SE slope, Lupe climbed East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.). This was easily accomplished from close to the SE end of the summit ridge where she didn’t have to do much scrambling.

For no more effort than it took, the side jaunt up East Trapper Peak was very worthwhile! The views of Trapper Peak were splendid, and even Baker Lake and most of the route back to it were visible from up here.

**Trapper Peak** from East Trapper Peak. Photo looks WSW.

**North Trapper Peak** (Center) and **El Capitan** (far L). Photo looks N.

**Baker Lake** (L). The route back circles along the top of the cliff line. Photo looks ESE.

During the return, those boots started bothering SPHP’s paws again. Lupe suffered no such inconveniences. Once back in the forest, the Carolina Dog had a blast racing about searching for squirrels, while SPHP hobbled after her.

The talus ridge at HP8768 was easily avoided. However, this success was completely overshadowed by a mistake SPHP made descending the very steep slope leading down to Baker Lake.

Instead of staying toward the E (R), halfway down SPHP led Loop down a path more to the W. This missed the nice trek on the slabs Lupe had taken earlier in the day that would have gotten her back to Baker Lake with little difficulty. The American Dingo dropped much further down into a jungle of deadfall, boulders, bogs, and hollows. SPHP endured a lot of useless thrashing about before reaching the S shore of Baker Lake.

8-15-20, 8:40 PM, Baker Lake trailhead – Whew! What a day! Even Lupe was acting tired as SPHP limped gingerly to the G6. The Trapper Peak adventure wasn’t over yet. One more thing to do. After getting Loopster fed and the pack stuffed back into the G6, SPHP opened a Coke and a box of Dots, then turned the key.

In the morning, vehicles would be coming up super narrow USFS Road No. 5634. Now was the time to get back down to the highway. Twilight faded to black on the 8 mile Coke slurping, Dot munching journey back to USFS Road No. 363. Slowly, cautiously! Still took a long time, but the experience was much less nerve-wracking in the dark without those daunting views or oncoming vehicles to worry about.

Success! Took the better part of an hour, but so what? The American Dingo could now spend the night twitching and dreaming of her Trapper Peak adventures at the access area along the beautiful W Fork of the Bitterroot River. And why not? That was SPHP’s plan, too.

**Trapper Peak**, Bitterroot Range, Montana 8-15-20

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Koch Peak, Madison Range, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (8-13-20)

Days 6-9 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-10-20, 8:40 AM, Donelson Lake, Beartooth Mountains – For the last time, Lupe stood on Camel Hump Rock by the N shore of exquisite Donelson Lake. SPHP was feeling lethargic after her gloriously successful jaunt up Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.) yesterday, but had at least managed to get the tiny house and all the gear packed. This was it. Ready to go!

A moment’s delay to appreciate this incredible place, and the Carolina Dog was on her way. No rush. Loop had all day to get back to the Island Lake trailhead. After working around to the SE shore, Lupe paused once more for a final look at Donelson Lake. Then it was over the low pass to the SSE, as the return began in earnest.

On **Camel Hump Rock** at **Donelson Lake**. Photo looks S.

Final farewell to **Donelson Lake**. Photo looks W.

The return was so beautiful, with so many great places to explore! Marmots whistled in the distance, as Lupe ran here and sniffed there, roaming as freely and happily as any Dingo in history. Two Bits Lake, Jasper Lake, Albino Lake, and Lonesome Mountain (11,399 ft.)! She passed all these familiar friends and more.

Approaching **Jasper Lake** (L) and **Lonesome Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Closing in on **Albino Lake**. Photo looks SE.

8-11-20, 2:15 PM, Livingston, Montana – After getting back to Island Lake yesterday at 6:00 PM, Lupe had had the rest of the evening off. Today was a rest and travel day, and tomorrow would be, too. The American Dingo had already been over Beartooth Pass on Hwy 212 this morning, and visited the Yellowstone River at Columbus. Now she stood in a gravel parking lot N of I-90.

Beyond parched fields of tall tan grass, that dome-shaped peak to the S had to be Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.).

*Thar she blows, SPHP! **Livingston Peak** (Center)!* Photo looks S.

Loop was soon heading S out of Livingston on Hwy 89. SPHP watched for the Carter bridge over the Yellowstone River, which wasn’t long in appearing. A L turn on East River Road (Hwy 540) led directly to the bridge. After crossing the river, SPHP drove several more miles, looking for another L turn leading to the Suce Creek trailhead. The search was successful, and Lupe found herself staring up at Livingston Peak from the trailhead.

**Livingston Peak** (L) on the way to the Suce Creek trailhead. Photo looks NE.

*Found it!* **Livingston Peak** from the **Suce Creek trailhead**. Photo looks NE.

That was it, though. Livingston Peak was on Loopster’s list of potential climbs, but wasn’t happening today. Not after marching around in the Beartooths for 4 straight days! Instead, SPHP drove back to the Carter bridge where Lupe got to spend time exploring an access area along the Yellowstone River.

**Yellowstone River** S of Livingston. Photo looks N.

For several hours SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal while Lupe rested under a picnic table, occasionally running off to sniff with other dogs. Small rain showers passed through. SPHP was eventually surprised to look up and see the sky full of smoke. Huh. Evening, time to move on, anyway.

**Carter bridge** from the river access area. Smoky now. Photo looks SSW.

By sunset, Lupe was in Bozeman. Skies to the N were still pristine, while smoke obscured everything W and S. Bad.

8-12-20, 8:47 AM, Bozeman, Montana – Fortunately, the news was good. Blue skies everywhere this morning. That wasn’t all, either!

That was Jobe Wymore on the phone, wasn’t it, SPHP?

Yes, Sweet Dingo!

So what did he say?

It’s on! Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) tomorrow! All we have to do is get to the trailhead today. Jobe climbed Torrey Mountain (11,147 ft.) yesterday. He’s currently in Idaho, but on the way over. He’ll meet us at the Upper Taylor Fork trailhead sometime this afternoon or evening.

So we get to see him again, and climb a mountain? Oh, that’s fabulous!

Yup! Yup! Jobe also knew all about the smoke we saw. Said it was coming from a forest fire that just exploded near Dillon. Still burning totally out of control, so we’re going to have to hope the wind keeps blowing the smoke some other direction.

After re-supplying in Bozeman, SPHP drove S on Hwy 191. The highway was extremely busy, but traffic was moving along OK. A stop was made for water at the Moose Creek recreation area along the Gallatin River. 14 miles S of the Big Sky intersection with Hwy 64, SPHP spotted the R turn on Taylor Fork Road (USFS Road No. 134). That was easy!

Still 11 miles to the trailhead, but Taylor Fork Road was nice and wide and smooth. Soon some beautiful mountains could be seen off to the W. One of them might well be Koch Peak.

Smooth sailing on **Taylor Fork Road** (No. 134). Photo looks W.

4 miles led to a junction with Wapiti Creek Road No. 2522. That was the wrong way.

*Stick with **Taylor Fork Road** to Cache Creek here!* Photo looks SW.

A mile beyond this junction, Taylor Fork Road passed the Nine Quarter Circle guest ranch. 7.5 miles from Hwy 191 came a bridge over Taylor Creek. A short distance dead ahead the road divided. Cache Creek was straight, and Lightning Creek, a tributary of Taylor Creek, was a L turn.

8 miles from Hwy 191. *Turn L here for Lightning Creek!* Photo looks NW.

Still 3 miles to go when SPHP made the L for Lightning Creek. Smooth as silk up to this point, but suddenly the road deteriorated. Littered with small, pointy stones with the occasional significant pothole thrown in, it was a rough ride. Creeping 5 to 10 mph up the Taylor Creek valley, the G6 passed a series of designated dispersed camping sites.

Minor miracle! 3 miles gone, and the G6 hadn’t popped a tire. The road forked here. Going straight up a little hill led only to another dispersed camping site, but a curve L went to another bridge over Taylor Creek. A parking lot was visible on the far bank.

8-12-20, 1:21 PM, Upper Taylor Fork trailhead –

Hah! Made it, Loopster!

Luck of the Dingo, SPHP! By the way, do you ever intend to purchase us a vehicle suitable for adventures in the mountains?

Don’t hold your breath on that one, Sweet Puppy! Enough diss’in the G6! C’mon, let’s check this joint out.

**Upper Taylor Fork trailhead** from close to the bridge. Photo looks S.

Upstream view of scenic **Taylor Creek**. Photo looks SW.

The route to Koch Peak starts out with Trail No. 17, but heads up Tumbledown Creek before getting all the way to Taylor Falls.

No doubt about it. This was the right place. Nothing to do now, but relax and wait for Jobe. Those new boots were getting better, but SPHP’s paws were still sore from Lupe’s multi-day jaunt in the Beartooths. Soaking them in lovely Taylor Creek sounded like a great idea.

Paws comfortably numb, SPHP was just putting those infernal boots back on when the Rubicon rumbled across the bridge. Jobe was here! Fun times! Jobe was full of stories. By evening, a series of rain showers swept through. Easy to see it coming in sheets. Hopping in and out of the vehicles with each onslaught. Jobe passed out sarsaparillas, but Lupe didn’t get one.

8-13-20, first light, Upper Taylor Fork trailhead – A tap on the window. The American Dingo exploded in fury! Oh, yeah. Sorry ’bout that! Just Jobe rousting SPHP. Time for action! 10 minutes of final preparations, and Lupe was on her way.

First light meant mostly dark, a situation Loop and Jobe both approved of. Once the cobwebs cleared a bit, SPHP did, too. An exciting start to the day! Lupe trotted alertly along Trail No. 17, which passed through a level tall grass meadow before entering the forest.

Progress was rapid as Trail No. 17 headed up the valley. A big dry wash full of rocks appeared, but was easily crossed. A mile from the trailhead, not terribly far beyond this wash, the trail turned and disappeared into Taylor Creek. No bridge. Oh, joy!

The stream was divided into 2 channels by a small island equipped with a cairn in case there was any doubt. The first channel was only inches deep and easily negotiated, but the second one was 15 feet wide and 1.5 to 2 feet deep. No rock hopping, or quick shallow splish-splash here.

Jobe bit the frigid bullet first. No sense getting boots and socks soaking wet so close to the start. Removing them, Jobe waded across the stony channel. No choice. SPHP followed, doing the same. Deep enough so Lupe actually floated for a moment, but she made it no problem, shaking herself off on the far bank.

Onward! Humans, ho!

Contemplating crossing the first channel of the **Taylor Creek ford**. Jobe’s already over by the second one.

SPHP fretted. How often was this trail going to ford Taylor Creek? Hadn’t the topo map shown several crossings? A quick check revealed that wasn’t true. More streams to cross, but just tributaries. This ford was the only one of Taylor Creek itself.

Cold standing around here all wet! How about Onward! Humans, ho! now?

The journey resumed. For a little while, the path remained in the forest, but Lupe eventually reached a big meadow with a clear view of Taylor Creek and the valley ahead. Sunlight was working its way down the mountainsides, but hadn’t reached the valley floor yet.

At the far end of the meadow, Trail No. 17 crossed Tumbledown Creek, a much smaller stream than Taylor Creek. Another 0.2 mile brought Lupe to a junction with Tumbledown Trail No. 4, the next part of the route to Koch Peak.

Approaching **Tumbledown Creek** (Center), the minor tributary seen beyond Lupe. **Taylor Creek** (L). Photo looks WNW.

At the junction with Tumbledown Trail No. 4.

Trail No. 4 started up a series of tight steep switchbacks progressing up the lower shoulder of the mountain Trail No. 17 had led to. As the rate of climb slowed, the trail eventually straightened out. Still steadily gaining elevation, Lupe traveled NW through a forest permitting no views. 40 minutes on No. 4, and a sign appeared for the Lee Metcalf Wilderness.

Trail No. 4 crossed Tumbledown Creek several times. Half an hour after entering the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, a rocky slope led down to another creek crossing. Beyond this crossing Trail No. 4 climbed more steeply again. Within 10 minutes, Lupe came to a small opening with a bit of a view. Making progress, but still a long way to go.

Crossing **Tumbledown Creek** shortly before the first viewpoint.

*Somewhat encouraging! At least we’re starting to get somewhere.* Photo looks ESE.

It wasn’t much farther to another encouraging sign. In a meadow, Lupe came to a junction with Tumble Basin trail No. 237.

At the junction with Tumble Basin trail No. 237, next leg of the journey to Koch Peak. **Peak 10829** (R). Photo looks WNW.

The trek SW into Tumble Basin was easy. Trail No. 237 was nearly level, and became increasingly scenic as forests gave way to meadows and views of the surrounding mountains. Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) was less than 2 miles away, and could sometimes be seen ahead.

**Koch Peak** (Center) from Tumble Basin trail No. 237. Photo looks SW.

Jobe leading the way. **Koch Peak** (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Entering **Tumble Basin**. **Peak 10764** (L) and **Peak 10668** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Trail No. 237 ultimately headed W toward the ridge N of Koch Peak, but Koch Peak’s S ridge was the way to go. Leaving No. 237 before it ended, Lupe and SPHP wandered SW up a minor forested rise and came to a shallow pond. A steep wall of rock could be seen to the SSW connected to Peak 10668. No going up that!

Jobe on Trail No. 237 as it heads for the **hilly ridge N of Koch Peak**. The N ridge is not the way to go! Soon time to leave the trail and veer off to the L (SW), but not quite yet. Photo looks WNW.

**Peak 10668** from the pond. The steep sunny slope on the R was a no go. Photo looks S.

SPHP had left the trail too soon. Should have gone a little farther W and crossed Tumbledown Creek one more time before turning S. Leaving the pond and the last of the forest, Lupe headed W down into a wide bushy marsh, the headwaters of Tumbledown Creek. Jobe had already made the course correction, and was waiting on the far side at the base of a steep slope decorated with wildflowers.

This was actually part of the same slope Loop had seen from the pond, but farther NW where it wasn’t just a wall of rock. Jobe powered up with SPHP lagging behind. A 250 foot climb gained a rounded grassy ridgeline a little S of HP9571 on the topo map. Drier up here with less vegetation.

Following this ridge SE was initially still a steady climb, but it gradually got easier. Lupe came to 3 or 4 grassy hills separated by minor drops, each hill a bit higher than the one before.

Jobe and Lupe head up the steep slope W of the headwaters of Tumbledown Creek. Photo looks W.

Almost to the rounded ridgeline. Jobe powers ahead while Lupe lingers to urge SPHP onward. **Koch Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

Heading for the next little hill along the grassy ridge. **Peak 10668** (L). The darker ridge (R) connects to Koch Peak’s S ridge. Photo looks SSE.

As the American Dingo got close to Peak 10668, the time came to turn SW. Leaving the grassy ridge, Jobe led the way across the upper reaches of a minor drainage where springs seeped out of a hill. On the far side, Jobe and SPHP paused by some rocks to shed weight for the upcoming ascent. Both stashed water bottles that weren’t going to be needed.

About to leave the grassy ridge to follow Jobe across the next drainage. Photo looks SW.

Taking a breather where the water bottles got stashed while Jobe checks his phone. Photo looks SW.

Not far ahead was another steep slope. This one featured a few patches of melting snow, and a series of rock outcroppings separated by benches partially obstructed with stunted pines. A 200+ foot climb brought Lupe to a flat grassy plain sprinkled with rocks. Crossing this small plain led to a view of a hidden tarn. Beyond it was Koch Peak’s S ridge.

Cake! Didn’t look bad at all.

On the rock-strewn plain with the tarn coming into view. **Koch Peak’s S ridge** looming over it. Photo looks SW.

Contemplating **Koch Peak’s S ridge** while proceeding around the S end of the tarn. Koch Peak is off the R edge. Photo looks SW.

Pretty straightforward from here! After going around the S end of the tarn, everyone headed NW up the easiest part of the slope leading to Koch Peak’s S ridge. The loyal Carolina Dog hung back with SPHP while Jobe blazed the way.

Jobe (L) nearing the ridgeline. **Koch Peak** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Once up on the S ridge, all that remained was to follow it NNW all the way to the summit. And breathe! No way SPHP was ever going to come close to keeping up with Jobe. Didn’t matter now, anyway. Another 600 or 700 feet higher would do the trick, and Jobe would be waiting up top.

Lupe absorbed fabulous views while SPHP absorbed oxygen at frequent intervals. Imp Peak (11,202 ft.), which could now be seen due S across the upper Taylor Creek drainage was the big eye-catcher. More distant Echo Peak (11,220 ft.) well beyond Imp and a bit to the W (R) was also impressive.

On the S ridge. *Whenever you’re ready, SPHP! **Koch Peak** dead ahead!* Photo looks NW.

**Imp Peak** (Center) with **Echo Peak** slightly to the R beyond it. Photo looks S.

The route up as seen from the S ridge. **Peak 10764** (L), **Peak 10668** (L of Center), and **Peak 10760** (R of Center). Photo looks E.

The last part of the ascent was nearly all rock, but various use trails ran among it all, and the rocks were only of moderate size. The climb was longer than it first appeared, but at last the use trail Lupe was on curled around to the W side of the summit, and grass reappeared as the terrain began to level out.

*Going to get rocky for a while now, but we’re not that far from the top!* Photo looks NW.

Lupe surveys the view while SPHP sucks air.

When Lupe reached the top of Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) Jobe was chatting with a couple of guys who had passed SPHP on the way up. They were waiting for a 3rd member of their party who had yet to arrive. Skies were now mostly cloudy, and a SW breeze Loop had been exposed to ever since reaching the S ridge made it rather cool up here. Even Jobe was bundled up to some degree.

The grassy summit region wasn’t enormous, but there was plenty of room to move around. The highest rocks, all relatively small, were along the SE edge. A survey benchmark was in this vicinity as well.

The **“Taylor” survey benchmark** on Koch Peak.

An American Dingo at the **true summit of Koch Peak**. Photo looks E.

360º panoramic views, of course! The best were to the N and S. Sphinx Mountain (10,876 ft.) and Pioneer Mountain (9,857 ft.) were most prominent to the N, with more distant Cedar Mountain (10,768 ft.) also in sight.

**Sphinx Mountain** (L) with more distant **Pioneer Mountain** (Center), and **Cedar Mountain** (far L). Photo looks N.

Only 3 miles due S, Imp Peak (11,202 ft.) looked grand, and Lupe was now high enough to see another mountain of special interest. Between Imp Peak and Echo Peak (11,220 ft.) the rugged spires of Hilgard Peak (11,316 ft.) soared skyward.

Jobe intended to climb Hilgard Peak sometime in the near future. Before Lupe had even set out on this Dingo Vacation, Hilgard had been on a short list of summits Jobe had invited SPHP to consider for possible joint ascents. A quick review of maps and photos online had caused SPHP to take a pass on Hilgard in favor of Koch.

Although Hilgard was quite a long way off from here, that decision was looking like a real good one!

Zoomed in on **Imp** (L), **Hilgard** (R of Center), and **Echo** (R). Photo looks S.

Peering down on Koch Peak’s S ridge, Lupe saw it sweeping SE, then clear around to the E and NE to link up with Peaks 10668 and 10754. To the NE was a beautiful view of Tumble Basin. Only a mile W was the light-colored summit of Sawtooth Ridge (11,049 ft.). To the SW, a small lake could be seen way down in the upper reaches of the Taylor Creek basin.

**Koch Peak’s S ridge** (L). **Imp Peak** (R). Photo looks SSE.

**Tumble Basin** (L). **Peak 10764** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Peak 10547** (Center) and **Peak 10852** (R). Photo looks SW.

By the time Loopster had taken a good look around, the guys Jobe had been talking to were on their way down again, their 3rd member having already shown up and spent only a few minutes up here with them.

Jobe was pleased with how well Koch Peak had gone! Roughly 6 miles and over 4,000 feet of elevation gain, most of it on good trails without any real difficulties whatsoever – just that chilly ford of Taylor Creek early on. Jobe half-jokingly pronounced Koch Peak the best mountain Lupe had ever climbed! It was certainly her biggest joint success with Jobe. Way better result than the beautiful, but ultimately disappointing Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) fiasco back in the Beartooths.

Jobe and Lupe at the **true summit**. Photo looks E.

11:41 AM – Jobe started down first. Lupe and SPHP soon followed. The first steep rocky part on the way down the S slope was slow going, but it was nearly all easy after that.

Jobe starting down. **Peak 10712** (Center) and the **Sawtooth Ridge summit** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Final moments atop **Koch Peak**. Photo looks ENE.

Following Jobe down the **S ridge**. Photo looks SSE.

Descending from the S ridge on the way back to the tarn, 6 to 8 people were coming up with 3 dogs. They were all members of a single family. The first young woman said she had been up Koch Peak “a million times”. Before Lupe made it back to the springs where the water bottles were stashed, one of those dogs could be heard yelping and whining piteously. This went on for some time, but whether the poor dog was suffering due to actual pain or simply terrified was never clear.

Back at the tarn. **Peak 10829** (L). Photo looks NNE.

Jobe grabbing a photo of **Koch Peak**. Photo looks NW.

**Koch Peak** from the tarn. Photo looks NW.

Continuing down to the springs where the water bottles are stashed. **Peak 10764** (L) and **Peak 10668** (Center). Photo looks E.

During the return, Jobe regaled SPHP with many a tale – some serious, some informative, and some simply hilarious. Lupe trotted along, often right on the trails listening in, but taking off now and then to roam as she saw fit, clearly enjoying the day. Time passed quickly. Suddenly Jobe was taking a last photo of the Taylor Creek valley. Hardly seemed possible the Koch Peak adventure was already almost over.

Back in the **Taylor Creek valley**. Photo looks W.

4:00 PM, Taylor Fork trailhead – The intrepid Carolina Dog had braved that Taylor Creek ford once again, and made it back to the trailhead. No one was going anywhere else tonight, so Loop had another evening off. After a hearty meal, she wanted to spend it relaxing on her pink blankie in the G6. Boots off, SPHP soaked sore paws in Taylor Creek, then spent the rest of a pleasant evening chatting with Jobe.

Jobe produced another sarsaparilla for SPHP. Tried to rain a few times again, but never amounted to much. The Grateful Dead were playing on the Rubicon’s stereo. Classic Jobe! All too soon, Jobe was pitching his tent next to the Rubicon and crawling inside as the darkness grew.

Such fun times! Koch Peak had been a marvelous day!

With **mountaineer Jobe Wymore** on **Koch Peak**, Madison Range, Montana 8-13-20

Note: Nine days later, Jobe did scale fearsome Hilgard Peak, but Lupe wasn’t there to see it.

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