Illinois Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana/Idaho Border (8-8-21)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-6-21, 7:51 PM, 52ºF –  Like being in the movie Groundhog Day!  4 weeks after her Dingo Vacation to Wyoming suffered it’s final coup-de-grace at this very spot, Loopster stood again up on the dolomite at High Park Lookout (9,477 ft.).  Cloudier this evening than it had been back then, but otherwise virtually no change.  Still sort of smoky up along the spine of the Bighorns.  Not too bad, but as before, much worse to the SW.

Back at High Park Lookout in the Bighorns at the start of a brand new Dingo Vacation! Photo looks N.

What do you think, SPHP?

Iffy, Loop, real iffy.  We’ll take another look in the morning.

8-7-21, 6:28 AM, 48ºF – Groundhog Day would have been better.  Didn’t Lupe take long to get back up to High Park Lookout, but the effort served more as a morning romp than an attempt to glean any new information.  A red sun already seen rising through the smoky haze from the trailhead had told the tale.

The sun was yellow now, but that made no difference.  Details visible yesterday evening were no longer detectable.  Definitely worse!

Back at High Park Lookout early on 8-7-21. Photo looks NE.

Our goose is cooked, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop.  Guess we can cross the Bighorns off our list.  Not hanging around for this!

Where are we going then, SPHP?

Good question.  Although back home the Black Hills weren’t on fire, it had been somewhat smoky there, too, for weeks.  Big forest fires were raging all over the American West.  The hoped for monsoon to put an end to it all hadn’t materialized.  Far from it!  2021 was a summer of smoke and fire, with scarcely a drop of rain anywhere out W.

W and N, Loopster!  As far as we can, until the sky turns blue!

Canada!  Alaska!  Oh, joy!

No, not that far N, Loop.  Canada’s still closed.  Covid-19.  Supposed to open up pretty soon, but there are a lot of rules with draconian penalties, and they keep changing with little or no warning.  Would love to, but Canada is out, and that means Alaska is out, too.

What about the Alaska marine highway?

They’ve raised prices, cut service, and they’ve got plenty of new rules, too.  What happens if we get to Alaska and they shut the whole thing down?  We’re really stuck then.  Not going to chance it.

Where are we going to find blue skies then, SPHP?

I don’t know.  Might have to go all the way to the West Coast!  Anyway, c’mon.  Puppy, ho!  We’re done here!

Well, at least Lupe enjoyed some excitement in the Bighorns.  Back at the trailhead, a herd of brown cows had moved in.  The American Dingo was thrilled to see them!  The cows were far less certain about the encounter.

Cows! Beautiful cows! Hesse Mountain (10,385 ft.) (Center). Photo looks E.

Lupe spent the day looking out the window of the RAV4.  Mile after mile rolled by.  Smoke everywhere, but it wasn’t terrible.  Most places, if one looked straight up, the sky was blue.  Toward all horizons, though, the sky was a hazy white.  Air quality was poor, always bad enough to mar the views.

Maybe Lupe really was going to have to go all the way to the West Coast to find any true blue skies?  Seemed that way.  Loop hadn’t been to the West Coast since her very first Dingo Vacation back in August, 2012, when she’d been with Lanis in his Honda Element.  She’d had a blast!

As the RAV4 sped onward, peak after peak got crossed off Lupe’s list of possibilities.  After passing Anaconda, a glimmer of hope appeared.  W of Deer Lodge, Mount Powell soared against a clear, blue sky!  Might be just a pocket of good air, though.  Smoke was still visible ahead to the N.

Perhaps not!  Well before the RAV4 reached Missoula, puffy white clouds were plying a sky that was a beautiful blue in all directions.

Hey, hey, Loopster!  Look at this!  Nirvana!  Maybe we’ve arrived?

Fabulous, SPHP!  What’s the next peak on my list?

Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.)!  Right on the Montana/Idaho border.  Looks like we’ll have to leave I-90 at Superior.  That’s well past Missoula.

Oh, we’ve never climbed a mountain in Idaho before, have we, SPHP?

Nope.  You’ve been to Idaho, but we haven’t climbed any mountains there yet.  Illinois Peak will be the first, although we’ll be in Montana the whole way to it.

8-7-21, 6:30 PM, Superior – After leaving I-90, 2 L turns got the RAV4 to an underpass.  Beyond it, whatever street this was came to a “T”.  A L here onto Hwy 257, and Lupe was heading SE.  1.5 miles from the “T”, SPHP pulled over to let the American Dingo out.  A big sign with an arrow pointing R said Cedar Creek Road 320.

Superior, Montana. At the turn onto Cedar Creek Road No. 320. Photo looks SE.

No. 320!  That’s what we want, Looper!

No. 320 headed SW up the Cedar Creek valley.  The first 1.5 miles were paved, but it was a good smooth road even after that.  At about 6 miles there was a fork.  Staying to the L, another fork was reached roughly 14 miles from the start.  Here SPHP turned L onto No. 388, which crossed a bridge over Cedar Creek.

Roughly 14 miles from the start of No. 320 at the L turn onto No. 388. Photo looks SW.

No. 388 was a much narrower road, but still decent.  4 miles on it, the last part of which was quite a steep climb after passing a mine on the L, got Lupe to Freezeout Pass.

8-7-21, 7:37 PM, 67ºF – Roads left Freezeout Pass in 4 directions.  SPHP stashed the RAV4 at the first one on the R, which was an abandoned spur.  Way too late to start for Illinois Peak, but Lupe explored the spur for 0.4 mile, which was quite level as it wound W along the N side of HP6466.  For the most part, forest hid the views.  A glimpse to the NW wasn’t encouraging.

Uh-oh, SPHP!  Look at how smoky it is out there!

Yeah.  No telling what tomorrow is going to bring, Looper.  Too late now to do anything other than hope we aren’t smoked out in the morning.

Confidence wasn’t all that high that wouldn’t be the case.

8-8-21, Dawn – A strange sound as SPHP came to.  Hadn’t heard that in eons!  Could it be?  Flipping on a light, it was!  Rain!  Not heavy, but steady.  Well, back to sleep.  Lupe wasn’t going anywhere for a while.  The Blue Cookie Monster rain poncho had finally met its match back in June at Bruce Mountain in the Bighorns.  No rain gear along on this Dingo Vacation at all.  SPHP hadn’t seen any need to replace it, since rain was extinct.

8-8-21, 10:59 AM, 51ºF, Freezeout Pass – Not entirely!  Rained most of the morning.  Puddles and everything, just like the real deal!  The Carolina Dog had been bored, but she’d survived.  The more widespread this rain was, the better!  Maybe it had put a few fires out?  Wouldn’t that be nice?

Definitely cleared any smoke away here!  The rain seemed to be about over, although a lingering problem with clouds and fog remained.

Never happy, are we, Loop?

Oh, yes we are, SPHP!  Practically all the time, as long as we get our daily minor miracle!  Are you ready to go yet?

Yup!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Looper left Freezeout Pass heading SW over a mound of dirt, then on up a broad dirt path.  The rain had stopped so recently that the forest was still dripping.  Surprisingly, the path was still firm underpaw, not muddy at all.  Soon the path was covered with a carpet of short pine needles.

About to leave Freezeout Pass. Photo looks SW.

Roughly 0.25 mile and 250 feet up to HP6466 went quickly.  Got a little steep shortly before the trail leveled out up top.  Evidently this path had been some sort of a road at one time.  Sort of nice, since it was wide enough to easily avoid contact with all the wet vegetation.

No views at all.  Seemed a bit foggy, so there wouldn’t have been any even if there hadn’t been any trees.  Lupe trotted happily along the damp lane through the rich green forest like Toto on the way to the Emerald City.

On the way to HP6466. Photo looks SW.

HP6466 was quite flat on top.  No obvious high point.  Eventually the path began to slope down.  Heading SSW at first, it soon curved W.  So far, there hadn’t been any obstacles, but Lupe now began coming to some deadfall.  Not all that much of it, but what there was, was big!

Encountering some deadfall beyond HP6466. Fortunately, there wasn’t much of it! Photo looks W.

The wide path bottomed out at a saddle along the broad ridge Lupe was following.  At this point, the former road ended, with only a single track trail continuing on from here.  Staying along the S side of the ridge, the single track immediately started gaining elevation.  Loop and SPHP were both soon soaking wet due to the vegetation pressing in from both sides.

Although the trail climbed much more rapidly than wide path had lost elevation on the way down from HP6466, it wasn’t climbing rapidly enough to stay up on the ridgeline.  Big rock formations could sometimes be seen 40 to 80 feet above the steep slope the trail was traversing.

On the single track on the S side of the ridge. Photo looks W.

Despite the rock formations above and steepness of the slope, the trail really wasn’t very rocky at all.  Lupe came to only one minor knob of rock.  There was a clearing here, with views of the North Fork of Trout Creek valley to the S.  Clouds hid the mountaintops.  Unsurprisingly, looking ahead, Illinois Peak was shrouded in fog, too.

By the only little knob of rock along the trail. HP6466 (L). North Fork of Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks ESE.
Fog (L) where Illinois Peak ought to be. Photo looks WNW.

The trail kept climbing at a good clip, and finally reached the ridgeline again.  Apparently, Lupe was already past the big knobs.  According to the topo map, the trail should have gone right over HP6760 along in here, but in reality, remained 20 feet lower, bypassing it to the S.

It’s so close, we really ought to visit HP6760, SPHP!

Alrighty, let’s do it!

Took only a few minutes backtracking to the E up on the ridgeline to get there.  Trees hid the views to the S, but Lupe did get a cloudy view of a series of forested ridges to the N.

At HP6760. Photo looks NNW.

W of HP6760, the trail gradually dipped again.  Progress was rapid.  Soon, however, the American Dingo was climbing fairly aggressively again.  Once again, the trail stayed S of the ridgeline.  Fog was always just ahead, but Loop never quite seemed to reach it.  The cloud cover was rising just as fast.

With a little luck, maybe we’ll actually get to see something from Illinois Peak, SPHP!

Wouldn’t that be nice?  Hope you’re right Looper!

Loop was at least as high as HP6760 again, when suddenly there were ripe blueberries right along the trail.  The Carolina Dog had passed a few earlier on, too, but these blueberries were bigger, sweeter, and more scrumpdiddlyicous.  Wasn’t long before progress came to a screeching halt, as SPHP became willingly ensnared in the blueberry trap.

While SPHP was thus engaged, the American Dingo raced away down the slope.  She charged back up a few minutes later, panting hard.

Saved you, SPHP!

Oh, really?  Thank you very much, Looper!  Saved me from what?

A flock of bears!  They wanted to take over this same blueberry patch.  Said it was theirs to begin with.

Dingo feathers!  No such thing as a flock of bears!  At least, there better not be!

Are you done with the blueberries yet, SPHP?  Even I can only hold a flock of bears off for so long, you know.

Umm, pretty soon, Loopster.  No real rush is there?  Need to give Illinois Peak a little longer to emerge from the clouds, anyway, don’t we?  Why don’t you try a few blueberries yourself?  You’ll love ’em!  Very healthy, too!  All organic, and super fresh.

Carolina Dogs don’t eat blueberries, SPHP.

Why not?  Some dogs do!  Remember that incredible video Dave Metz made about traversing the Brooks Range in Alaska?  What an adventure!  His dogs ate blueberries to stay alive.

Jimmy got sick and died, SPHP.  Probably blueberry poisoning!

Blueberry poisoning!  Jimmy got cancer, not blueberry poisoning!  Dave Metz said so.

You can live dangerously, if you want to, SPHP, but I’m not taking any chances.  Hurry it up with the blueberries, though.  We’ve got a mountain to climb, you know!

W of HP6760, starting up again. Photo looks WSW.
Part of the blueberry trap.
Guarding against any incoming flocks of bears while SPHP gorges. HP6760 (Center). North Fork of Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks E.

SPHP finally got going again.  The clouds were lifting, but even with the blueberry delay, fog was still ahead.  The trail climbed steadily, steepest pace so far, but it still wasn’t all that bad.  More and more open terrain appeared as the forest thinned out.

Beyond the blueberries, still climbing toward the fog. Photo looks W.

Lupe never did reach the fog, which kept retreating up the mountain.  The rate of ascent began to diminish.  After going over a little lip, a broad grassy region rose gradually toward the NW, where a cairn was visible not too far away.

Getting close to the top! Photo looks SW.
Approaching the cairn (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

When Lupe got there, she found two concrete steps to nowhere a few feet SE of the cairn.  The obvious true summit of Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.), a 3 foot high rock outcropping, was 10 feet N of it.  Two American flags protruded from the cairn, and 2 gnomes holding watering cans huddled together at its base, facing W.

The cairn was hollow, and a white plastic bottle with an orange cap could be seen inside.  Conditions were blustery here, with gray clouds scudding along only a little overhead, driven by a chilly SW breeze.  A brief moment of triumph was endured by the Carolina Dog atop the true summit, after which SPHP retrieved the white bottle from the cairn, plus an intact Nature Valley granola bar from off the top concrete step, before retreating to the E side of the little summit ridge.

Sitting down a bit below the summit’s crest, at least somewhat protected from the wind, Lupe clearly approved this maneuver.  The granola bar, however, once opened proved to be a little stale.  Evidently not up to high-falutin’ Dingo standards.  Using her nose, Lupe started to bury her share of the prize.  SPHP wasn’t so picky.

Arriving at the summit cairn in somewhat blustery conditions. Photo looks E.
Success! At the true summit of Illinois Peak. Photo looks SSE.
The registry bottle.

Open the bottle, SPHP, so you can sign the registry for me, and we can see what else might be inside.

In addition to the registry, there were quite a few other items – a plastic snake, fake gold and silver coins, a 9-11 fraudulent event note left by someone who wasn’t overly impressed with former President Bush, and business cards left by Tom & Gail Randall, who had started this registry less than a year ago on 8-28-20 in memory of their friend Randy Oliver.

The registry was an orange spiral notebook that barely fit into the white bottle.  Lupe’s was only the 3rd entry after Tom & Gail’s.

Conditions gradually improved.  After a nice 40 minute long break spent sheltering by the little summit ridge, moments of sunshine and blue sky were becoming more frequent.  Time to get up and have a look around!  Still plenty of clouds, but they were higher now, making it possible to see the views.

On the top concrete step to nowhere. Photo looks S.
Back on the now sunny true summit. Photo looks NW.
Exploring the grassy summit region, which was a good 2 acres in size. Photo looks SE.
Looking SSE with a little help from the telephoto lens.

Gold Crown Peak (7,374 ft.) was visible only a mile to the W.  If Lupe had gotten an earlier start, she would have visited it, too.  With a name like that, it had to be a peak worthy of an American Dingo’s presence!

Gold Crown Peak (Center). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Returning to the true summit and venturing N, a second cairn was found only 25 feet away.  Some of the best views were in this direction.

At the true summit again. Photo looks NE.
True summit of Illinois Peak. Still breezy. Photo looks ENE.
Looking NNW from the gnome cairn and true summit.
Same view, but from the N cairn. Photo looks NNW.

80 feet ESE of the gnome cairn was another rocky ridge not far from where Lupe had come up the mountain.  This E outcropping was bigger than the one at the true summit.  SPHP was surprised when Lupe found the Illinois Peak survey benchmark there.

Loop at the E rock outcropping. Quartz Benchmark (7,770 ft.) (R). Photo looks ESE.
Illinois Peak survey benchmark.
Another angle. Photo looks ENE.
Looking SSW across much of the summit region.

A brief return to the true summit, and it was time to go.  An hour and 20 minutes after arriving, Lupe headed back down the trail.  Dark clouds still swept past now and then, but didn’t dampen the mood for long.

Final moments atop Illinois Peak. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down amid the pom-pom plants. HP6760 (Center) in the foreground beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.
Pom-Pom plants, or more scientifically, Pomus-Pomus planti.

The coast was clear!  No flying flocks of bears!  SPHP managed to tank up on blueberries again, despite Lupe’s disinterest.  The American Dingo revisited HP6760, and got to see considerably more this time.  The best part of the return, though, was a final satisfying look back at Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.), no longer shrouded in fog and mist.

Blueberry trap, round 2. Delicious!
Back at HP6760. Photo looks NW.
A fond farewell to Illinois Peak (Center). Photo looks W.

8-8-21, 4:14 PM, 55ºF, Freezeout Pass

That was fun, SPHP!  Turned out OK, didn’t it?  Just think, my first ascent of a peak in Idaho!  Plus credit for a Montana ascent, as well!

Yeah!  Illinois Peak, didn’t disappoint, although it was looking iffy there early on.  Glad the cloud cover lifted enough to get to see the views.

Loopster was back from Illinois Peak early enough to enjoy an evening drive.  Took a while to get back down to I-90 again at Superior.  From there, it wasn’t far to St. Regis where SPHP left I-90 again, taking Hwy 135 down to Hwy 200 and Paradise.  This was all new territory, and very beautiful.  NW of Thompson Falls, Lupe took a sunset stroll featuring a look at the Noxon Reservoir on the Clark Fork river.

Noxon Reservoir from close to the Hwy 200 bridge over the Clark Fork river. Photo looks NW.

Dusk was deepening by the time SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Pillick Ridge trailhead a mile off Hwy 56.  Illinois Peak had gotten Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast off to a great start!  Dinner, then time to recharge for the next adventure tomorrow.

Illinois Peak, Bitterroot Range, Idaho/Montana border 8-8-21

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Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana (8-15-20)

Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-14-20, Daybreak, 32ºF, Upper Taylor Fork trailhead, Madison Range, MT – Just getting light out.  The sun wouldn’t be up for a while yet.  Jobe was up already, busily rearranging gear in his Rubicon when SPHP came to.  Lupe sniffed excitedly, raring to go as soon as SPHP let her out of the G6.  Maybe she was expecting another Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) outing?

That wasn’t in the cards, a travel day was.  Wasn’t long before Jobe was ready.  Handshakes and pawshakes, and he was off.  The G6 followed the Rubicon across the bridge over Taylor Creek a minute later.  For 3 snail-paced bumpy miles, the Koch Peak adventure was sort of still on.  Wasn’t until the turn E into the rising sun on Taylor Fork Road that SPHP was certain the G6 wouldn’t pop a tire.

At Hwy 191, SPHP turned N down the Gallatin River valley.  Heavy traffic even this early in the day.  At I-90, the G6 headed W.  Jobe was long gone.  His adventures were taking him E to Billings tonight.  Been fun, but Lupe wouldn’t see her friend Jobe Wymore again this year.  The Carolina Dog was off for parts unknown!  W of Butte, SPHP turned S on I-15.  Never been here before!  Let the next adventure begin!

8-14-20, 11:40 AM, Hwy 43 –  The Big Hole River was plenty wide, but not terribly deep.  Peering into the water, the rocks forming the river bottom were all slimy and green, thick with long strands of algae swaying in the current.  Slippery!  Lupe did not venture in, preferring to admire the river’s sparkling surface from a dry rock.

Checking out the Big Hole River.

Hwy 43 ended at a “T” intersection with Hwy 93 at Lost Trail Pass along the Idaho – Montana border.  Sticking with Montana, SPHP turned N.   At Conner came a L (W) turn on West Fork Road, a shortcut which crossed both the E and W Forks of the Bitterroot River en route to Hwy 473.

Not far now!  Heading SW on Hwy 473 for a couple of miles, an access point for the W Fork of the Bitterroot River appeared on the L just before the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center came into view on the R.  Another 0.5 mile, and the highway crossed Trapper Creek.  Immediately beyond it was a sign for a R turn saying “Forest Access Baker Lake”.

8-14-20, 1:21 PM, W Fork of the Bitterroot River – Lupe waded in the cool, clear cool waters of the Bitterroot River.  No slimy green algae coating the rocks here!  Every pebble on the bottom stood out in crisp, watery relief.  SPHP waded in with the Carolina Dog for a few minutes, but she was soon more interested in a squirrel scolding her from the trees above the riverbank than cooling off.

W Fork of the Bitterroot River at the access point across Hwy 473 from the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center.

SPHP relaxed on a tiny sandy beach.  It had been too early to want to head up to the Baker Lake trailhead, so upon finding the access road, SPHP had simply turned around.  Tempting to take a swim, but the trip journal needed attention.  Two hours listening to the soothing rippling waters zoomed by.  Loop would have preferred to continue the squirrel siege, but really hadn’t been making any progress with it.  In any case, it was time to move on.

According to the topo map, the Baker Lake access road left Hwy 473 as USFS Road No. 363.  After crossing a big meadow, proof appeared on the R as the road turned up into the trees.

Yup! This is the right way, alright!

A mile from the highway, a big sign at a junction with Baker Lloyd Road (No. 5629) said 9 miles to the Baker Lake trail.  SPHP continued straight, sticking with No. 363, which by now was climbing steadily and getting both washboardy and very dusty.

At the junction with Baker Lloyd Road, which isn’t the way to go.

Another mile on No. 363 led to a spot where roads curved both L and R.  Directly ahead on a hillside was a “363”, apparently meant for the road going off to the L.  Instead, SPHP made a sharp R turn onto a road with a small sign saying “5634” with a hiking symbol below it.

The 8 miles on USFS Road No. 5634 were an adventure of their own!  Nearly the entire way the road wound crazily or made long switchbacks along a steep forested slope.  The rate of climb was never worrisome, in fact, parts of the route were level or close to it, yet the whole drive was unnerving, especially where openings appeared in the forest.  It was then possible to see the plunging mountainside and a vast airy expanse over to mountains miles to the E, mountains no higher than where the G6 now crept cautiously along.

However, the true source of anxiety was the extreme narrowness of the road, which produced a greatly heightened sense of always being on the brink.  No. 5634 was fine for one vehicle, but what if another was met on its way down the mountain?  The prospect of having to back down for who knew how far was dreadful, yet it must happen all the time.

An answer came 3 miles into the journey.  A vehicle did appear coming the other way.  Luck of the Dingo!  A Jeep!  No way two vehicles could pass on the road at this point, but the Jeep pulled almost entirely off the road leaning at a 40º angle on the uphill slope.  The G6 squeezed past.

Onward!  G6, ho!

Should have come up earlier in the day!  3 more times vehicles appeared heading down.  Luckily, all these instances occurred at points where it actually was possible to sneak by, the only abuse suffered by the G6 the rude scraping of tree branches along the passenger side.

8-14-20, 4:02 PM, Baker Lake trailhead –  The Baker Lake trailhead proved to be little more than a long wide spot where USFS Road No. 5634 simply dead-ended.  Room enough to carefully turn around, if the joint wasn’t too overrun already, which it might have been if those 4 vehicles that had already departed had still been up here.

SPHP did turn around, parking the G6 facing back out as close to the exit as possible.  Might help avoid getting hemmed in when the time came to depart!  An hour after leaving Hwy 473, the American Dingo hopped out.  If Loopster was as relieved as SPHP to finally be here, she gave no indication of it.

A short stroll past pickups and SUV’s to the end of the road led to the usual display of rules and regulations, but little of interest specific to this location.  Hours yet until the sun would set, but here on the E side of the mountain, much was already in shadow.  20 feet beyond the display, a well-worn single track trail curved up into the sullen deep green gloom of tall densely-packed conifers.

The evening wore on.  By nightfall, only 5 vehicles remained.

Baker Lake trailhead at the end of USFS Road No. 5634. Photo looks N.

8-15-20, 7:55 AM, 52ºF, Baker Lake trailhead – Morning sunlight filtering through the trees completely dispelled yesterday’s gloom as Lupe set off for Baker Lake on Trail No. 234.  The trail began with a short steep climb W or SW through thick forest before leveling out as it turned S.  Upon reaching a small clearing, the trail started switchbacking higher.  Before long, Looper came to a huge rock formation out in a larger opening.

This must be Baker Point!  Lupe scrambled partway up for a look.  Kind of hazy out, especially to the E.

About to set out from the Baker Lake trailhead. Photo looks S.
Baker Point. Photo looks SSE.

At Baker Point, Lupe reached the start of a broad ridge sloping slowly, but steadily higher.  The trail headed WNW along this ridge passing through a more open forest of younger trees.  After gaining perhaps 200 feet of elevation, the trail left the ridgeline to head more directly W or WSW along a slope N of the Baker Creek valley, flattening out as it did so, and even losing elevation in spots.

Glimpses of the ridge to the SW that Lupe ultimately needed to get over to began appearing.  Eventually, Loop caught sight of towering cliffs on the E face of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.), too.

In the younger forest past Baker Point.
The ridge on the L leads to Trapper Peak. Photo looks SW.
East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.

After losing 80 feet of elevation, a big opening was reached on the N (R) side of the trail.  This region contained many huge rocks that had long ago crumbled ago from the ridge the trail had abandoned, the top of which was now in sight at least 100 feet higher.

Below the ridge the trail had abandoned. Photo looks N.

From this low point, the trail began climbing again as it wound among boulders and tree roots in an older forest.  Close to Baker Lake exposed slabs of rounded bedrock appeared.  With so much rock about, the forest was more dispersed.  Upon reaching Baker Creek, Loop crossed a bridge of three small logs before following the stream to its source.

Boulders, tree roots, and an older, denser forest en route to Baker Lake.
Slabs of bedrock appeared shortly before reaching Baker Lake. Photo looks N.
Crossing the 3 log bridge over Baker Creek.
Baker Creek was small, but quite scenic flowing over exposed bedrock.

Lupe found Baker Lake tucked away in a spectacular setting!  Large rock formations bordered the E and S shores, and magnificent mature forests encircled the lake wherever sufficient soil was present.  Huge protective ridges pressed in from the N and S, and off to the W was a splendid view of the E face of East Trapper Peak.  Mirror smooth, the lake doubled the grandeur of its surroundings in near perfect reflections.

Baker Lake. East Trapper Peak (L of Center). Photo looks W.
Another angle. East Trapper Peak (R). Photo Looks WSW.
East Trapper Peak from Baker Lake. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Evidently, Baker Lake is a popular destination.  Exploring boulders and bedrock along the E shore, Lupe saw colorful tents and hammocks both nearby, and over on the W side of the lake.  However, getting to Baker Lake was merely a good start to the day for the peakbagging Dingo.

Trapper Peak (10,157 ft.) was Lupe’s destination.  Unseen, except for the E summit, Trapper Peak was still another 2,300+ feet higher and 2 miles away.  There was actually an official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 that came up the mountain’s humongous SE ridge, but the Baker Lake route that Lupe was taking was shorter, more scenic, and required 640 feet less elevation gain.

The whole trick to making the Baker Lake route work was to get up onto the ridge S of the lake, which was merely a different part of the same SE ridge the official trail went up.  However, the topo map showed the N face of this ridge being very steep for 200+ feet.  Didn’t look so bad from here at the lake, though.  Lupe headed for it, staying somewhat E of the lake following an easy route higher along bedrock slabs.

The ridge Lupe had to get up onto as seen from Baker Lake. The route up is just to the R of the big pine tree at L. Photo looks SSW.
On the bedrock slabs heading for the E end of the ridge (Center). This region is SSE of Baker Lake. Much better than going due S from the lake. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP had previously seen GPS tracks of routes others had successfully tried from Baker Lake.  Nearly all of them went up toward the lower E end of the part of the ridge closest to the lake.  A shaded area full of trees could be seen between two cliffy spots as Lupe got closer.  Figuring this was the way to go, suspicions were soon confirmed by the discovery of a use trail near the bottom of the slope.

Aim for the dark area (L of Center) between the cliffy spots! Photo looks S.
At the base of the climb, which is just to the R of these cliffs. Photo looks SSE.

The slope the use trail went up was steep, very steep, but not all that rocky.  SPHP clung to trees, branches, bushes – basically whatever was available, whenever available.  With 4 on the floor, Loopster had no trouble.  Near the top, the rate of climb diminished.  Gonna make it!

Getting close to the top. Photo looks S.
Made in the shade! The use trail flattens out just beyond Lupe. Photo looks SSE.

Up on top, a large pile of deadfall was near the big flat spot where the use trail came up.  The use trail turned R here, heading W just S of a line of cliffs.  However, before going that way, Lupe scrambled over some of the deadfall to a rocky high point visible just a little to the NE.  This high point featured several large dead trees, and was a terrific viewpoint.  Baker Lake could be seen from here, as well as both East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.) and North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.).

At the viewpoint NE of where the use trail reached the ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.
Baker Lake (Center) from above. Photo looks N.
East Trapper Peak (L) and North Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks WNW.

Reaching the ridgeline meant that the only tricky part of the ascent was over, but the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go.  Returning to the use trail, she now followed it W through a forest different from the one down by Baker Lake.  Up here, the trees were smaller, more spaced out, and many were dead.

Following the use trail higher. Photo looks WNW.

The use trail gained elevation at an easy to moderate pace that didn’t vary much.  Every now and then, Lupe ventured N to the edge of the cliffs to check out the views.  She finally came to a point where Middle Lake was in sight, along with just a glimpse of Gem Lake above it.

Middle Lake (near Lupe’s head). East Trapper Peak (L) and North Trapper Peak (Center). Photo looks NW.

Close to this viewpoint, the terrain steepened as Loop climbed a ridge of light-colored talus.  These rocks tended to be flattish, which made them an easier scramble than they might otherwise have been.  Lichens gave all the rocks on top of the ridge a mottled dark gray and light green cast.

This ridge was HP8768 on the topo map.  Ahead was a chasm due to a large notch in the main ridge, and a terrific view of East Trapper Peak.

Climbing the light-colored talus ridge. Photo looks W.
East Trapper Peak (R) from HP8768. Photo looks W.

Lupe now had to veer SW along the talus ridge to avoid the chasm.  The talus slowed things down, but eventually played out.  Back in the forest, Loop soon turned W again, quickly regaining the elevation she’d lost leaving HP8768 and more.

By now the use trail was intermittent, but the overall route was clear.  The open forest and moderate pace of climb made travel relatively easy.  Lupe kept heading W, constantly gaining elevation.  Eventually the line of cliffs to the N began to curve NW.

A high point of light-colored rocks now appeared near the edge, but the terrain steepened rapidly in that direction, and a young densely-packed forest made attaining that high point difficult.  Abandoning the attempt to follow the cliffs any farther, Lupe took a course more to the WNW.

The forest soon began to thin.  Suddenly it ended.  A few thin lines of stunted trees ran down a long slope of scattered rocks and loose soil.  Directly ahead were several distant high points.

Oh, I think that’s it, SPHP! Trapper Peak (L)! Photo looks WNW.

Wandering higher on the vast open slope beyond the forest, Lupe now had views of mountains to the SW.  A ridge of dark stone appeared to the N, the summit of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.).  Instead of going to it, the American Dingo aimed for the saddle leading to Trapper Peak.

In the open on Trapper Peak’s vast SE slope. HP9587 (R of Center). Photo looks SW.
Below East Trapper Peak’s summit ridge. Photo looks N.

On the way to the saddle, Lupe came across the official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 bound for the same destination.  By then, she didn’t have much farther to go.  The broad flat saddle between East Trapper Peak and Trapper Peak proved to be terrain similar to the giant slope Looper had just come up, a rock-strewn plain of gritty loose soil and short, sparse vegetation.

Approaching Trapper Peak. Trail No. 133 (R). Photo looks W.
East Trapper Peak from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

Before heading for Trapper Peak’s summit, Lupe ventured over to the N edge of the saddle.  Here, beyond a giant cirque, was a tremendous view of a series of rugged peaks and jagged ridges extending from North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.) all the way to El Capitan (9,983 ft.).

El Capitan (far L) and North Trapper Peak (far R). Photo looks NNW.

At the W end of the saddle, the official Trapper Peak trail vanished as far as SPHP could tell.  Two high points were visible ahead, the more distant one clearly higher than than the one Lupe faced at the moment.  Gonna be slow going!  All talus from here on.

At the W end of the saddle, approaching the talus-covered slopes leading to the summit. Photo looks W.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone along the entire Baker Lake route except right at Baker Lake, but the official Trapper Peak trail was busy.  Hikers were coming and going.  From here, most seemed to head W right over this first high point.  Following their example, Looper did the same.

On the talus slope leading to the first high point. Photo looks W.

From the top, which turned out to be a series of mini high points along a talus ridge modestly higher toward the W, the next high point ahead was in full view.  Definitely the true summit!  Whether coming up onto this first ridge was really the best route or not seemed doubtful.  At the W end, the American Dingo faced a short, but very steep down climb in big talus to get to a minor saddle leading to the final ascent.

Maybe it would have been better to stay lower simply skirting this ridge to the S?  Hard to say.  Didn’t matter now.  Lupe did what she had to do.

True summit of Trapper Peak (Center) from the first high point. Photo looks WNW.
East Trapper Peak (L) from the E end of the first high point. Photo looks ENE.
At the W end of the first high point with the final ascent dead ahead! Getting down to the saddle leading to it was trickier than it looks. Photo looks NW.

8-15-20, 1:18 PM, Trapper Peak – Made it!  Well, almost.  Having scrambled up from the S, Lupe was now a little SW of the true summit, maybe 20 or 25 feet below it.  Quite a few people around.  Lots up on top.  Still early, the Carolina Dog could wait for them to clear out.  Time for a rest, anyway.  Except for a bit of haziness, the weather was perfect.

Hah!  That was SPHP’s opinion.  The American Dingo was hot.  While SPHP found a perch from which to enjoy the views, Loop searched for a comfortable spot with a bit of shade.  None!  Giving up on finding any, Lupe finally plunked herself down on a patch of dirt to pant and snap at flies.  A couple bowls of water provided at least some relief.

Don’t happen to have a parasol in that backpack, do you, SPHP?

A little SW of where Lupe and SPHP were hanging out, an airy platform of rock provided a tremendous vantage point.  Like the true summit, it was occupied.  However, when it eventually opened up, Loop went over that way for a look around.

Airy platform (L) before it got vacated. Photo looks W.
Due to some big cracks, as close to the airy platform as Loop got. Photo looks W.

To the S and SW, Boulder Peak (9,804 ft.), East Boulder Peak (9,480 ft.) and HP9587 stood out.  Beyond them a huge expanse of lesser peaks and ridges stretched to the horizon.

HP9578 (L), East Boulder Peak (Center) and Boulder Peak (R). Photo looks SSW.
HP9578. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Due N, and more than 2,500 feet lower, a good chunk of Cave Lake was visible.  Sugarloaf Peak (9,586 ft.) towered a couple of ridges past it, while El Capitan (9,983 ft.) dominated the scene farther NNW.

Cave Lake (R of Center), Sugarloaf Peak (Center), & El Capitan (far L). Photo looks N.
El Capitan. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking WNW.
Summit from close to the airy platform. Photo looks NE.

People continually came and went.  Most stayed up at the true summit only a little while before moving on, but a few lingered for a long time.  Lupe was patient, but the summit was never unoccupied.  More than 1.5 hours drifted by.

Alright.  Ready or not, maybe it was time for action?  Despite a couple in the middle of enjoying a picnic up there, SPHP encouraged Loopster to proceed.  On a mountain this busy, complete privacy was a luxury.

Guess we’re going to go barge in at the top now! Photo looks NE.
Looking back on the way to the true summit. Photo looks WSW.
Memorial stone near the summit.

Looper got high, very high!  But not quite all the way to the tippy top yet.  East Trapper Peak was in view again, and so was the entire SE ridge that the official Trapper Peak trail comes up.

East Trapper Peak (L of Center) and the first high point on the way up (R of Center). Photo looks E.
Trail No. 133 comes up the long slope in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP kept inching closer to the picnickers.  They finished eating, but the woman started calling people on her cell phone.  Meanwhile, Loopster discovered a survey benchmark, and got up on one of the very highest rocks.

The first of 2 survey benchmarks Lupe found on Trapper Peak.
Just a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had been waiting for a turn on the summit rock for nearly 2 hours now.  The couple was sitting right next to it.  SPHP finally apologized for the intrusion, as Loop leapt up to the true summit.  Close to the highest point, another survey benchmark was attached to this rock.

True summit of Trapper Peak. El Capitan (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.
The “Trapper” survey benchmark.
How’s this for a view? We’re higher than El Capitan (Center) and everything else around here! Photo looks NW.

Fortunately, the couple was friendly.  They didn’t mind Lupe being up here, too.  The American Dingo took the liberty of going past them to get over to the best view of North and East Trapper Peaks.

East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
North Trapper Peak (L) and East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
More of the chasm between them. Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, the phone conversations quickly headed S.  Suddenly, the woman was weeping as she spoke with her mother.  Awkward, but the situation didn’t last.  Trapper Peak’s joyful mood had been ruined for the couple.  They left, heading down the mountain.

Sad that their Trapper Peak experience ended that way, but it worked for Lupe.  For the first time she had the true summit all to herself.  Still people not too far away, so the Carolina Dog better enjoy it while she could.

In dramatic solitude at the true summit! Photo looks NE.
More of the summit region. Photo looks NE.
Looking WSW now.
Looking W with help from the telephoto lens.

8-15-20, 3:29 PM, Trapper Peak – The true summit photo shoot hadn’t taken long, but Loop had now been at or near the top of Trapper Peak for over 2 fabulous hours.  So this was it, the inevitable moment of truth.

On Trapper Peak.

While the return was simply a matter of retracing the same basic Baker Lake route, Lupe changed things up a bit, making new discoveries and having new experiences along the way.

After scrambling down to the little saddle between Trapper Peak and the first high point to the E, Loop followed a trail S, losing elevation instead of going up and over that talus ridge.  Once she turned E, cairns were all over the place, but still no path.  Just a jumble of large talus, same as the ridgeline had been.

So, no matter which route was taken, it was simply a time-consuming talus trek over to the big saddle W of East Trapper Peak.  Once Lupe got there, instead of jumping on the official Trapper Peak trail to start down the enormous SE slope, Lupe climbed East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.).  This was easily accomplished from close to the SE end of the summit ridge where she didn’t have to do much scrambling.

For no more effort than it took, the side jaunt up East Trapper Peak was very worthwhile!  The views of Trapper Peak were splendid, and even Baker Lake and most of the route back to it were visible from up here.

Trapper Peak from East Trapper Peak. Photo looks WSW.
North Trapper Peak (Center) and El Capitan (far L). Photo looks N.
East Trapper Peak summit region with Trapper Peak in the background. Photo looks WSW.
Baker Lake (L). The route back circles along the top of the cliff line. Photo looks ESE.

During the return, those boots started bothering SPHP’s paws again.  Lupe suffered no such inconveniences.  Once back in the forest, the Carolina Dog had a blast racing about searching for squirrels, while SPHP hobbled after her.

The talus ridge at HP8768 was easily avoided.  However, this success was completely overshadowed by a mistake SPHP made descending the very steep slope leading down to Baker Lake.

Instead of staying toward the E (R), halfway down SPHP led Loop down a path more to the W.  This missed the nice trek on the slabs Lupe had taken earlier in the day that would have gotten her back to Baker Lake with little difficulty.  The American Dingo dropped much further down into a jungle of deadfall, boulders, bogs, and hollows.  SPHP endured a lot of useless thrashing about before reaching the S shore of Baker Lake.

8-15-20, 8:40 PM, Baker Lake trailhead – Whew!  What a day!  Even Lupe was acting tired as SPHP limped gingerly to the G6.  The Trapper Peak adventure wasn’t over yet.  One more thing to do.  After getting Loopster fed and the pack stuffed back into the G6, SPHP opened a Coke and a box of Dots, then turned the key.

In the morning, vehicles would be coming up super narrow USFS Road No. 5634.  Now was the time to get back down to the highway.  Twilight faded to black on the 8 mile Coke slurping, Dot munching journey back to USFS Road No. 363.  Slowly, cautiously!  Still took a long time, but the experience was much less nerve-wracking in the dark without those daunting views or oncoming vehicles to worry about.

Success!  Took the better part of an hour, but so what?  The American Dingo could now spend the night twitching and dreaming of her Trapper Peak adventures at the access area along the beautiful W Fork of the Bitterroot River.  And why not?  That was SPHP’s plan, too.

Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana 8-15-20

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