Maude-Lawson Lakes Trail, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada (7-18-14)

Lupe and SPHP spent several days in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park in Alberta on the Canadian Rockies portion of Lupe’s 2014 Dingo Vacation.  Our base of operations was centered around Upper Kananaskis Lake, a beautiful and fairly large mountain lake where there were a number of great hiking trails to explore.  The most outstanding of these hikes was along the Maude-Lawson Lakes Trail, which leads to North Kananaskis Pass and on into Height of the Rockies Provincial Park in British Columbia.

This hike started at the North Interlakes Day Use trailhead located between the Upper and Lower Kananaskis Lakes in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park in Alberta, Canada.  The trailhead is close to the NE corner of Upper Kananaskis Lake.  Near the junction of Hwy 40 and the S end of Route 742 (Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail) is a paved road to the Peter Lougheed Provincial Park Visitor Center.  The North Interlakes Day Use trailhead is at the end of this paved road well beyond the visitor center.

Lupe arrived at the North Interlakes Day Use trailhead between Upper and Lower Kananaskis Lakes around 9 AM on this smoky, but otherwise very fine morning.  She found the trailhead parking lot already crowded with two groups of 8 – 10 teenage boys each busy preparing to hit the trail too.  One group was ready and set out shortly before Lupe and SPHP.  The second group was still organizing at the trailhead parking lot when Lupe and SPHP got underway.

Lupe started out on a portion of the Upper Kananaskis Lake trail, which ultimately goes all the way around the lake.  This first stretch of trail was pretty easy with only moderate elevation gain.  Lupe trotted W on the trail while keeping watch for any squirrels that might be about.  The trail rose gradually until it was well above the lakeshore.  Although Lupe was in the forest most of the time, there were a few open stretches along the trail with very nice views of Upper Kananaskis Lake.

This photo of a portion of Upper Kananaskis Lake was taken on 7-17-14, the evening before Lupe's adventures on the Maude-Lawson Trail.
This photo of a portion of Upper Kananaskis Lake was taken on 7-17-14, the evening before Lupe’s adventures on the Maude-Lawson Trail.  The Forks Campground is about 5 km beyond the far side of the lake seen in this photo.

Unfortunately, the air was quite hazy due to smoke from distant forest fires.  The air had been smoky on and off for days, starting back when Lupe had reached the area E of Glacier National Park while still in the USA.

SPHP had heard various rumors of where the fires were ever since Lupe had stopped by at Waterton Lakes.  Just this morning, while still at Upper Kananaskis Lake before arriving at the trailhead, Lupe and SPHP had met a couple from Yellowknife in the Yukon who had told SPHP there were over 200 wildfires now burning in northern British Columbia.

After 2.2 km, Lupe came to an intersection with the Three Isle Lake trail.  The Three Isle Lake trail led Lupe away from Upper Kananaskis Lake and deeper into the forest.  Now there were no views, but the forest itself was beautiful.  The Three Isle Lake trail was in good condition and a very easy stroll as it was quite level.  It headed NW for a little way and then turned W again.

The bridge over the Upper Kananaskis River on the Three Isle Trail, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Canada
The bridge over the Upper Kananaskis River on the Three Isle Lake trail, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Canada

Lupe crossed two streams while on the Three Isle Lake trail.  The first one was a small stream coming down from Invincible Lake.  Lupe enjoyed a good drink out of this stream.  The second stream was actually a small river, the Upper Kananaskis River.

The Upper Kananaskis River was flowing fast and deep in a narrow gap where Lupe had to cross it, but fortunately there was a very good bridge.  After crossing the bridge, the trail remained fairly level as it followed the river upstream.  Lupe soon came to a couple of guys making a new trail around old portions of trail damaged in the June, 2013 floods.  Not too far beyond them, Lupe reached the Forks Campground.

Lupe on the bridge over the Upper Kananaskis River.
Lupe on the bridge over the Upper Kananaskis River.

Appropriately enough, at Forks there was a choice to make.  Lupe was now 7.2 km from where she had started the day.  If Lupe continued W another 3.5 km on the Three Isle Lake trail, above a steep headwall she would reach another campground at Three Isle Lake.  Quite a few of the hikers SPHP had chatted with along the trail were either coming from or going to Three Isle Lake.  After reaching Three Isle Lake, the trail continued on another 2.8 km to South Kananaskis Pass, but no one had told SPHP they’d been that far.

The other available choice was to take the Maude-Lawson Lakes trail.  This trail went N 7.7 km to the Turbine Campground beyond Lawson Lake, and then another 2.1 km W on up to Maude Lake just E of North Kananaskis Pass.  Lupe expressed no great preference for either the South or North Pass.  SPHP hoped to reach the more distant North Pass and set off along the Maude-Lawson Lakes trail.  Lupe seemed happy enough to follow along.

After bypassing the Forks Campground, which was deserted at the time, the trail headed N along the Upper Kananaskis River upstream for a little way, but then began to climb.  Once the climb began, it was relentless and pretty steep.  This was where most of the elevation gain for the day occurred as the climb turned into a long series of switchbacks up the head-wall on the W side of the Upper Kananaskis River valley.

While climbing, the trail continued to work its way to the N.  The E side of the canyon was visible as a massive continuous rock wall rising a couple thousand feet above the valley floor.  Mt. Indefatigable (8,760 ft.), Mt. Invincible (8,793 ft.), Mt. Warspite (9,318 ft.), and Mt. Black Prince (9,642 ft.) were all along the E side of the valley, but partially obscured by the smoky haze in the air.

SPHP had to stop to rest frequently on the climb up the headwall.  It was getting warm out.  Fortunately Lupe came to a few very small streams along the climb where she could get a drink.  On one of SPHP’s first stops, the second group of teenage boys caught up to and passed SPHP.  From then on Lupe and SPHP took turns with the second group of boys passing each other at various rest stops on the headwall.

SPHP started talking to the boys and learned that this second group was from a camp near Bemidji in northern Minnesota called Camp Thunderbird.  They were on a 6 week “Junior Leader” journey that had already taken them to the Badlands and Black Hills in South Dakota, the Wind River Range in Wyoming, and a trail-making service job in the mountains in Idaho.  The Thunderbirds were now backpacking up to Turbine Campground.

The Thunderbirds intended to stay the night at Turbine Campground before hiking back out the next day.  After that they were headed up to Jasper and Mt. Robson.  All of the boys were about 15 years old.  They were accompanied by a couple of leaders in their early twenties.  Many knew each other from previous summers spent together at Camp Thunderbird.  The trip they were on was one of several offered through Camp Thunderbird, which also has programs and trips for girls.  Camp Thunderbird really sounded like an awesome place.

One of the boys fell behind near the end of the climb up the headwall.  He’d had concussions from playing hockey and had developed a headache.  One of the leaders was with him.  SPHP gave him a Cliff bar in case his blood sugar was low. The Thunderbirds decided to take a longer break and have lunch so everyone could rest up.  Lupe and SPHP passed the Thunderbirds for the final time at that point.  Very shortly after that, Lupe and SPHP reached the top of the headwall and the trail finally leveled out a great deal.

A stream above the headwall on the Maude-Lawson trail, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Canada 7-18-14
A stream above the headwall on the Maude-Lawson trail, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Canada 7-18-14

Within 10 minutes, at a larger stream Lupe and SPHP caught up with the group of teenage boys who had left the trailhead back at Upper Kananaskis Lake first.  They wanted to know how close the Thunderbirds were.

SPHP told them the Thunderbirds were very close, only 10 minutes behind them, but that they had just stopped for lunch.  Although this first group of boys was not from Camp Thunderbird, they were also headed for Turbine Campground for the night.

Lupe along the Maude-Lawson trail after passing the first group of boys on her way to Turbine Campground.
Lupe along the Maude-Lawson trail after passing the first group of boys on her way to Turbine Campground.

Lupe and SPHP passed the first group of boys and were now ahead of both groups.  It was still 2 or 3 km to Turbine Campground.  Lupe and SPHP went through a couple more climbs, but nothing comparable to the headwall.  Beyond the first rise was a beautiful open meadow with a small alpine lake.  Glorious mountains were all around.  It was rather a pity that the air was still smoky enough to detract from the fabulous views.

The alpine pond in the meadow beyond the headwall on the way to Lawson Lake.
The alpine pond in the meadow beyond the headwall on the way to Lawson Lake.

Beyond this meadow was another small climb through the trees and then the trail started downhill emerging from the forest near Lawson Lake, which wasn’t too far from Turbine Campground.  Another km or so brought Lupe to a bridge over Maude Brooke.

Lupe reaches Lawson Lake.
Lupe reaches Lawson Lake.

On the other side of Maude Brooke was Turbine Campground.  No one was around when Lupe first arrived.  Lupe and SPHP laid down on an open grassy bank on the campground side of Maude Brooke to take a rest.  While SPHP contemplated the grand mountains all around, Lupe tried to doze a bit in the sun.  She snapped at flies bothering her, while laying right next to SPHP.

After resting about 15 minutes, Lupe suddenly woke up and stood stiffly a couple of feet in front of SPHP while sniffing the air and staring intently upstream.  She didn’t move or make any noise, but just stood there sniffing excitedly for several minutes.  The first group of boys now started arriving at Turbine Campground.  Some of them waved at Lupe and SPHP as they crossed the bridge.

Lupe catches the scent of grizzlies near Maude Brooke and Turbine Campground.
Lupe catches the scent of grizzlies near Maude Brooke and Turbine Campground.  The grizzlies, still unseen at this point, are in the bushes just in front of the trees on the other side of Maude Brooke where Lupe is looking.  Mt. Beatty (9,711 ft.) is the highest peak in the background.

About 10 minutes later the Thunderbirds started coming.  About 2/3 of the Thunderbirds had crossed the bridge when suddenly SPHP saw movement about 100′ to 125′ away in the bushes on the other side of Maude Brooke where Lupe was still staring.  A moment later, SPHP had a clear view of what was there.  A large grizzly bear raised its head above the bushes to look directly at Lupe and SPHP!

Some of the last few Thunderbird stragglers were just now coming into view along the trail on the same side of Maude Brooke as the grizzly was.  SPHP started waving at the Thunderbirds and pointing at the bear.  Lupe started growling, but did not bark.

The Thunderbird stragglers saw the grizzly and quickly made it across the bridge over Maude Brooke to Turbine Campground.  The big grizzly ambled over to the trail they had just been on.  As the big bear left the bushes and crossed the trail, it turned out there were three grizzly bears traveling together!  The other two were already good-sized bears, not little cubs, but they were not as large as the first bear.  Lupe growled more loudly and the hair on her back stood up like she’d seen, well, 3 grizzly bears – but still she did not move or bark.

The sight of three bears crossing the trail where they had just been only a minute before caused quite a commotion among the Thunderbird stragglers.  Other boys started coming from the trees at Turbine Campground to see what the fuss was about.  None of them arrived in time to see the grizzlies before all three disappeared into the forest in the direction of Lawson Lake.  It all happened so fast, no one got a picture of the grizzlies.

Three grizzlies in the area gave SPHP some pause.  The plan had been for Lupe to continue on to Maude Lake and North Kananaskis Pass, which was only a few km farther on.  However, it was already 3:30 PM.  Lupe and SPHP were not equipped to spend the night at Turbine Campground, and did not have the required reservations.  Before the day was over, Lupe and SPHP had to return all the way to Upper Kananaskis Lake where the G6 was parked, already some 15 km away now.

Reluctantly SPHP decided Lupe would have to forego the rest of the journey to Maude Lake and North Kananaskis Pass.  It just wouldn’t be smart to stay out so late knowing there would be a long hike back in the dark while there were three grizzlies wandering around nearby.

Lupe and SPHP waited 20 minutes before leaving Turbine Campground to give the grizzlies time to get farther away.  Before leaving, SPHP cautioned several of the boys staying at Turbine Campground to make certain everyone stored their food safely away after dinner so the bears wouldn’t come back in the night.

A look back at Lawson Lake on the return journey.
A look back at Lawson Lake on the return journey.

Shortly before 4 PM, Lupe and SPHP cautiously set out on the way back to Upper Kananaskis Lake.  Lupe and SPHP never did see the three grizzlies again.  Lupe didn’t see anyone else either until she reached the Forks Campground.  Although the Forks Campground had been abandoned earlier in the day, now it was packed with people.

Looking S through the meadow towards the little alpine lake on Lupe's return trip on the Maude-Lawson Trail.
Looking S through the meadow towards the little alpine pond on Lupe’s return trip on the Maude-Lawson Trail.
Lupe on the Maude-Lawson Trail near the alpine lake.
Lupe on the Maude-Lawson Trail after just passing the little alpine pond.
Looking S from the headwall on the Maude-Lawson trail.
Looking S from the headwall on the Maude-Lawson trail.  The Forks Campground is down at the base of the mountain ahead.  Although this photo was taken in early evening on Lupe’s way back to Upper Kananaskis Lake, it is still pretty hazy out from the smoke of distant forest fires.

It turned out the entire Forks Campground had been reserved for the weekend by a company from Scandia, a small town along Hwy 36 in southern Alberta.  Lupe and SPHP became temporary minor celebrities at the Forks Campground due to having news about the grizzlies.

SPHP chatted with the owners of the company from Scandia.  The owners said they were beekeepers and employed all these people at Forks Campground making honey.  They cooked SPHP a burrito and even provided a glass of wine.  They had a big black German Shepherd with them, and made up a batch of a special dog food for Lupe.  Lupe politely ate some of the dog food, but preferred devouring half of SPHP’s burrito.

After concluding the tale about the three grizzlies and thanking the beekeepers for dinner, Lupe and SPHP hit the trail again.  The rest of the way back to Upper Kananaskis Lake, Lupe and SPHP told the few people still on the trail to be on alert for bears.  A couple of people were still on their way to Turbine Campground and clearly wouldn’t reach it before dark.  They listened with considerable interest, before continuing onward.

By the time Lupe got back to the North Interlakes Day Use trailhead and the G6, it was about 8:30 PM.  With the new, strong, strange scent of grizzly bear still fresh on her mind, it had been both a long and memorable day for Lupe.  She was soon ready for a good snooze in the G6.  Lupe lay twitching as she dreamed.  SPHP wondered if the twitching dingo was fighting and bringing down grizzly bears in her dreams?

Lupe catches the scent of grizzlies near Maude Brooke and Turbine Campground.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 128 – Lithograph Canyon Hillside, East Hell Canyon & Signal Hill (4-25-15)

On Expedition No. 127, Lupe pretty much finished up at least one ascent of all Black Hills, SD mountains she can climb currently in the Peakbagger.com data base.  However, there was still one peakbagging goal possible in the area, which was to go to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside (5,820 ft.)  .  This hillside is not the summit of any peak, but simply the highest point in Jewel Cave National Monument.

Ordinarily the high points of U.S. National Parks and Monuments are off-limits to Lupe, because dogs are not allowed into the back country.  However, the topo map available on Peakbagger.com showed that the high point of Jewel Cave National Monument is on the border with the Black Hills National Forest close to the NE corner of the monument.  This meant Lupe could get to it by traveling through the national forest.

So at 9:30 AM on this fine morning, SPHP parked the G6 at the intersection of USFS Road No. 278 and No. 278.1E about 0.5 mile S of Hwy 16.  This point is approximately 1 mile E and 0.5 mile S of the Jewel Cave National Monument E entrance along Hwy 16.  The skies were mostly sunny with a few high clouds, there was a gentle S breeze, and the temperature was 52°F.  Conditions were perfect for a day of dingo outdoor adventures.

Still S of Hwy 16 Lupe turned N to climb this hillside in Lithograph Canyon just E of Jewel Cave National Monument.
Still S of Hwy 16 Lupe turned N to climb this hillside adjoining Lithograph Canyon just E of Jewel Cave National Monument.  Lupe’s curly tail is sticking up behind a log.
Photo looking NW taken from just SE of E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument. Hwy 16 is visible on the left. The hillside shown is the route up to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the national monument. The actual highpoint is not shown. It is a little way above and to the right of the high ground at the right edge of this photo.
Photo looking WNW taken from just ESE of E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument. Hwy 16 is visible on the left. The hillside shown is the route up to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the national monument. The actual highpoint is not shown. It is a little way above and to the right of the high ground at the right edge of this photo.

Lupe set off heading W along USFS Road No. 278 down into Lithograph Canyon.  This area, along with many others along her exploration route this day, had burned in the 83,000+ acre Jasper fire that was started by an arsonist on August 24, 2000.  A little before Lupe had gone a mile, Lupe turned N and went up and over the hillside to arrive at Hwy 16 at the E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument.

Lupe at the E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument now just a 20 feet N of Hwy 16. She is ready to head N up the E boundary to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point.
Lupe now 20 feet N of Hwy 16 at the E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument.  She is ready to head N up the E monument boundary to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point.

Although SPHP doesn’t ordinarily like fences, in this case SPHP was hoping to find a fence marking the E boundary of Jewel Cave National Monument.  Lupe could then follow the fence line up the hillside to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point.

What Lupe found though, was even better.  There was no fence, but there was a series of metal fence posts showing the way.  The fence posts were anywhere from about 50 to 200 feet apart.  Some of the posts were labeled for the monument boundary and others for the national forest boundary, but it didn’t matter.  It was the same boundary.  The posts weren’t all lined up perfectly, but close enough for Lupe and SPHP’s purposes.

Shortly before reaching the top of the first rise along the hillside N of Hwy 16, Lupe found this survey marker for the corner of sections 36, 31, 6 & 1.
Shortly before reaching the top of the first rise along the hillside N of Hwy 16, Lupe found this survey marker for the corner of sections 36, 31, 6 & 1.

To get to the Lithographic Canyon Hillside high point of Jewel Cave National Monument, there proved to be two rises N of Hwy 16 Lupe had to ascend.  Shortly before reaching the top of the first rise, Lupe came across a section line survey marker at the corner of sections 36, 31, 6 & 1.  Continuing N from the top of the first rise, Lupe could see the next rise ahead.

Lupe on top of the first rise. Photo looks N towards the 2nd rise, which is beyond the dead tree near the center of this photo.
Lupe on top of the first rise. Photo looks N towards the 2nd rise, which is beyond the dead tree near the center of this photo.

Lupe passed under a barbed wire fence running E/W at the base of the 2nd rise, but what that fence signified was unknown.  It was not the Jewel Cave National Monument boundary.  SPHP spotted another boundary marker ahead to the N high up on the edge of the 2nd rise.  When Lupe got up to it, more boundary markers could be seen nearby still farther N.  From the edge of the 2nd rise, Lupe continued N along nearly level ground close to 200 feet and found a couple of Black Hills National forest boundary markers.

NE corner of Jewel Cave N. M. according to USFS markers. A dead tree has fallen right over the spot where SPHP believes the survey corner pin must be.
NE corner of Jewel Cave N. M. according to USFS markers. A dead tree has fallen right over the spot where SPHP believes the survey corner pin must be.  Photo looks a bit E of S back towards the edge of the 2nd rise.

A dead tree had fallen in between two Black Hills National Forest boundary posts right across where SPHP presumes the survey corner pin must be for the NE corner of Jewel Cave National Monument.  There were also two metal signs on bearing trees nearby with survey information on them.  One was on a tree 33 feet away to the N and slightly to the W.  The other was attached to a stump 17 feet almost due E of the corner.

Still at the NE corner of Jewel Cave N. M. as per Forest Service markers. The metal survey information sign on the “bearing stump” is visible as a yellow square 17 feet beyond the corner and Lupe’s head. Photo looks E.

SPHP wasn’t thinking too clearly.  At first SPHP was thinking that by finding the NE corner of Jewel Cave National Monument, Lupe had also reached the actual high point of the monument.  While looking back S along the E boundary of the monument towards the edge of the 2nd rise, SPHP suddenly realized the corner was not necessarily the absolute highest point.  Lupe and SPHP headed back S along the E boundary looking for the very highest point.

Lupe sitting near a collection of rocks with a piece of a post laying on them. SPHP thought this also looked like the very highest point along the E boundary of Jewel Cave N.M.
Lupe sitting near a collection of rocks with a piece of a post laying on them. SPHP thought this  looked like the very highest point along the E boundary of Jewel Cave N.M.  Photo looks NNW.

SPHP came across a little pile of rocks with a piece of an old post sticking out of it where the ground seemed to be the highest.  Lupe got her picture taken here, since once again SPHP was satisfied that Lupe was now at the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point and the highest spot in Jewel Cave National Monument.  SPHP was still thinking the high point was along the E boundary.

The prettiest view was from the post near the edge of the 2nd rise along the E boundary. Photo looks SE.
The prettiest view was from the post near the edge of the 2nd rise N of Hwy 16 along the E boundary of Jewel Cave National Monument.  Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP went NW up(!) to a log so SPHP could sit down and take a break while thinking about where to go next.  It hadn’t taken terribly long for Lupe to get up here.  SPHP had been thinking Lupe might spend the rest of the day exploring East Hell Canyon farther to the N, and wanted to consult some maps.  Meanwhile, Lupe had some water and a little Taste of the Wild.

Gazing S from the log, SPHP suddenly realized the ground for a little way to the W of the E monument boundary line was obviously HIGHER than the E boundary itself.  The Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of Jewel Cave National Monument was along the N boundary, not the E boundary!

So Lupe sniffed around while SPHP went back to find the N boundary of Jewel Cave National Monument and the highest point along it.  Interestingly, SPHP found that there was a line of Jewel Cave National Monument border posts heading W, but that they did not line up with the NE corner of the monument as indicated by the national forest boundary markers Lupe had already visited.  Just pacing it off, the national monument border posts for the N boundary were about 55 feet S of where the national forest corner indicated they should be.  The first national monument border post was about 20 feet W of the E boundary and had a partially burned flat piece of wood still clinging to it.

This Jewel Cave National Monument boundary marker with a partially burned piece of sign clinging to it is the first marker W along the N boundary. It is about 20 feet W of the E boundary.
This Jewel Cave National Monument boundary marker with a partially burned flat piece of wood clinging to it is the first marker W along the N boundary. It is about 20 feet W of the E boundary and about 55 feet S of the NE corner of the monument as indicated by the National Forest survey markers.

The high point of the Lithograph Canyon Hillside was roughly 100 feet W of the E boundary along the N boundary line.  SPHP took a photo of Lupe standing on a log about 1.5 feet above the high point along the N boundary as indicated by the Jewel Cave National Monument border posts.  However, with all the detailed survey work that seems to have been done by the national forest at the NE corner (two corner posts, a bearing tree and a bearing stump, and probably a survey pin under the dead tree), SPHP suspects the real high point is 55 feet farther N.

Another Jewel Cave National Monument N border post is seen to the W of Lupe. Probably about 55 feet S of the true Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the monument.
Another Jewel Cave National Monument N border post is seen to the W of Lupe. Probably about 55 feet S of the true Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the monument.

Of course, Lupe also went to the high point 55 feet back to the N in line with the national forest survey.  This was most likely the true Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of Jewel Cave National Monument, but SPHP did not bother to take another photo of Lupe there.  SPHP already had enough photos of the area, and this spot didn’t look much different.  Lupe was getting bored with SPHP’s obsession with marching back and forth over the same little patch of ground. None of it was all that remarkably different in elevation, views or any other aspect.  (If some reader with GPS ever gets up here, SPHP would still like to hear their opinion on the location of the true high point!)

As far as Lupe was concerned, it was mission accomplished and time to press on to the N to explore East Hell Canyon.  SPHP agreed.  Lupe headed N continuing up the now increasingly gentle slope.  The terrain made her turn first to the NNE and then back to the NNW to stay on the high ground.  After going a good 0.5 mile N, Lupe started heading down a big draw leading into East Hell Canyon from the ESE.

Lupe on her way down the draw leading into East Hell Canyon. There were at least 3 elk and a few deer in this area.
Lupe on her way down the draw leading into East Hell Canyon. There were at least 3 elk and a few deer in this area.

Lupe had a much better time in East Hell Canyon than whoever named the place.  Near the bottom of the canyon there was a big thick patch of a variety of tall thorny bushes, but that was as bad as it got.  The canyon floor looked very wild where Lupe first reached it.  Fortunately there was a remnant of a road in the canyon for SPHP to follow.  (SPHP didn’t know it at the time, but this was USFS Road No. 284.2L.)  Lupe and SPHP turned N again to explore.

Lupe entered East Hell Canyon just S (R) of this cliff on the E side of the canyon.
Heading N along the “road” (No. 284.2L) in East Hell Canyon.
Lupe in East Hell Canyon a little way E of Short Fork Draw.
Lupe in East Hell Canyon a little way E of Short Fork Draw.

Lupe came to better roads at a canyon junction in Section 30.  Here the canyon was trending to the NE, but the way directly ahead was blocked by a canyon wall with a big crack in it.  A road going E toward Windmill Draw was marked USFS Road No. 681.  Lupe stayed on 284.2L which turned NNW.

Looking N at the cracked canyon wall where USFS Roads No. 681 and 284.2L meet.
Looking NE at the cracked canyon wall where USFS Roads No. 681 and 284.2L meet.  Lupe on the run!
Lupe just S of the cracked canyon wall near the canyon junction. Photo looks SW towards the cliffs.
Lupe just SW of the cracked canyon wall near the canyon junction. Photo looks W towards the cliffs.

So far Lupe hadn’t come to any creek or stream in East Hell Canyon, but pretty soon she did come to a round plastic livestock watering tank.  There was only an inch of amazingly clear water in it.  SPHP picked Lupe up and put her in it.  She immediately laid down and had a nice drink.  Then she spent a minute or two wading around surprised to have her own wading pool.  When she was done, she easily jumped out.  Lupe started coming to more watering tanks even though Lupe never saw any livestock in East Hell Canyon.  Lupe did not get into any of the other watering tanks.

Still no creek or stream, but Lupe did come to this round livestock water trough, which she used as her wading pool. Lupe saw no livestock anywhere in East Hell Canyon. Though only an inch deep, the water was remarkably clear. Most water tanks contain some pretty disgusting stuff.

USFS Road No. 284.2L ended at a canyon junction just W of Windmill Draw.  A sign here said it was still 3 miles to Custer Limestone Road (No. 284).  Lupe could have turned NE on No. 284.2B, but instead continued NNW on No. 284.2A.

Lupe reaches the intersection of USFS Roads No. 284.2A and No. 284.2B just W of Windmill Draw. She continued N on No. 284.2A.
Lupe reaches the end of USFS Road No. 284.2L and intersection of USFS Roads No. 284.2A and No. 284.2B just W of Windmill Draw. She continued NNW on No. 284.2A.

Maps showed that Bear Spring Creek flows through this portion of East Hell Canyon where No. 284.2A goes, but there was still no sign of any creek or stream.  As Lupe and SPHP continued on up East Hell Canyon, gradually the canyon walls had fewer and smaller cliffs.  Eventually the canyon felt less like a canyon and more like just a valley.

Lupe finally reaches Bear Springs Creek flowing across No. 284.2A just 0.25 mile S of No. 284.
Lupe finally reaches Bear Springs Creek flowing across No. 284.2A just 0.25 mile S of No. 284.

Lupe had already gone a long way when she came to a place where the dry creek bed was green with new shoots of grass.  The dark soil looked moist.  Finally Lupe came to Bear Springs Creek.  By then she was only about 0.25 mile S of County Road No. 284 (Custer Limestone Road).

Going uphill to find water is not at all uncommon in the Black Hills.  The area is semi-arid and the geology of the Black Hills region is such that the hills are surrounded by a ring of limestone and other porous rock formations.  Few creeks or steams have sufficient flow to remain above ground as they leave the Black Hills.  The entire flow of most simply sinks into the ground.  Over the ages, these underground creeks and streams have charged regional aquifers.  In some places they dissolved the limestone to create long complicated caves like Wind Cave and Jewel Cave.

When Lupe reached County Road No. 284, SPHP debated what to do next.  After checking the maps, SPHP settled on Signal Hill (6,483 ft.) .  Lupe had recently climbed Signal Hill for the first time back on Expedition No. 125, but SPHP decided it was worth doing again.  From there, Lupe could explore USFS Road No. 747 heading back to the S.

Bloodily wounded heroic dingo Lupe struggles triumphantly to the towering pinnacle of Summit Hill shortly before the onslaught of the coming storm.... actually no.. that's not blood, just mud from the stock pond. A rainstorm was coming though from the direction of Elk Mountain to the WSW.
Bloodily wounded heroic dingo Lupe struggles triumphantly to the towering pinnacle of Signal Hill shortly before the onslaught of the coming storm…. actually, no…. that’s not blood, just mud from the nearby stock pond, and Signal Hill is just a hill, no great pinnacle. A rainstorm was coming though from the direction of Elk Mountain to the WSW.

A somewhat dull 2.75 mile trudge towards the NW along No. 284, a major gravel road, ensued.  SPHP picked up some of the trash in the ditch to pack out.  At last Lupe reached No. 747 and turned S towards Signal Hill, a 10 minute hike away.  This time, instead of going directly up the N slope, SPHP circled around the NW side of the hill to an area enclosed by an 8 foot tall wire mesh fence.  Just before reaching the fence Lupe spotted a shallow stock pond with little water, but lots of dark reddish brown mud in it off to the NW.  Naturally she ran over to lay down in the mud and have a drink of mineral water.

At the S end of the fenced enclosure, SPHP turned and made the short climb from the W up Signal Hill.  A rainstorm was in progress off to the WSW at Elk Mountain.  It was almost certainly heading this way.  Nevertheless, Lupe and SPHP lingered on Signal Hill for a little while.  The air was cool and felt good.  The views were pretty nice, although also barren and forlorn.  Lupe finished her Taste of the Wild while SPHP enjoyed the moment.

Lupe props herself up on the remains of the old lookout tower foundation on Summit Hill. Lupe left Summit Hill heading SE in the direction this photo is looking.
Lupe props herself up on the remains of the old lookout tower foundation on Signal Hill. Lupe left Signal Hill heading SE in the direction this photo is looking.  The little road she went to is barely visible at the upper left.

Lupe and SPHP couldn’t stay for too long up on Signal Hill.  The storm was coming and it was many miles back to the G6 now.  SPHP had intended to have Lupe explore No. 747 on the way back to the S, but mistakenly assumed it was the little road visible to the SE from the summit.  (Actually No. 747 heads SSW from the W side of Signal Hill.)  Lupe and SPHP went SE down the hill.  Upon reaching the little road, Lupe followed it.  Before long it curved around to the NE and promptly dead-ended at another livestock watering tank.

Lupe on the little road that was not No. 747. Photo looks back to the NW at Summit Hill.
Lupe on the little road that was not No. 747. Photo looks NW back at Signal Hill.

SPHP had no clue what had happened to No. 747 and didn’t want to bother with looking at maps.  To the S was a long stretch of high ground that had burned in the Jasper fire.  SPHP decided to just head S trying to maintain elevation.  SPHP and Lupe both really enjoyed this section of the journey.  There was some deadfall timber to deal with, but it wasn’t too bad.  There were lots of animal trails to follow for long stretches.  The air was clean and cool.  There were pleasant distant views from the open high ground.

Lupe reaches the White Water Tank about 2 miles S of Signal Hill just as the rain starts.

Long before reaching it, a white water tank was visible off to the S.  Lupe and SPHP headed for it.  The rain started about the time Lupe reached the white water tank, which was probably a bit less than 2 miles S of Signal Hill.  There was a road running E/W just N of the white water tank.  SPHP knew it could likely be followed E to County Road No. 282 (Mud Springs Road), but didn’t want to do that.  Lupe was having more fun just roaming the open lands.

SPHP and Lupe climbed the big hill just S of the white water tank.  SPHP found a piece of thin metallic foil, evidently part of a helium balloon from a child’s birthday party and picked it up.  SPHP wondered how many miles it had drifted through the sky to arrive way out here.  Another big hill came into view farther off to the S, although some of the intervening ground was forested.  Lupe and SPHP just kept wandering.  SPHP wanted to go SSE, but the terrain kept forcing Lupe back to the SSW.  There were elk and deer in the area.  SPHP heard, but did not see, wild turkeys.

The S end of the rainbow.

The rain wasn’t very heavy.  Lupe got damp, not soaked.  Luckily, the storm had split and most of the rain had gone either N or S of Lupe.  It rained the hardest for 15 minutes as the sun came out and the last of the storm passed.  A double rainbow formed off to the E, but only the ends of the rainbow existed, there wasn’t anything where the upper portions of the arches should have been.

There was more forested land and fewer burn areas as Lupe continued S.  Lupe entered the damp gloomy forest.  Finally Lupe came to a nice valley she had to go down into before climbing up another big ridge she had seen from afar.  At the top of this ridge was a good gravel road.  Lupe followed it ESE since it was staying on the high ground.

A vehicle came along heading ESE.  With all the dang, confounded traffic, SPHP decided to leave the road and parallel it from a little way to the S.  The road eventually proved to be County Road No. 283 (Antelope Creek Road) as signs proved where it intersected No. 282 (Mud Springs Road).  Lupe and SPHP turned S on the ever-so-charmingly named Mud Springs Road.

The sun sets on Expedition No. 128 and another fabulous Dingo Day. Here Lupe is just off Mud Springs Road with a good 6 miles or more to go before reaching the G6 again.

By now it was getting quite late in the day.  SPHP hoped that with some clouds off to the W, there might be a colorful sunset.  For a few minutes the sun was a golden ball between a break in the clouds.  SPHP should have snapped a photo then.  The pinks, oranges, reds and purples never developed.  The western sky turned gray.  SPHP took a final photo as the light faded.

Lupe had more than 6 miles still to go to get back to the G6.  There was a half moon, but it was often obscured by clouds.  Lupe followed Mud Springs Road S to Hwy 16, turned E and followed Hwy 16 all the way through Jewel Cave National Monument.  At one point park personnel drove by, stopped and asked if Lupe and SPHP needed help.  No sir.  Other vehicles came along every few minutes.  A mile E of Jewel Cave National Monument, SPHP was glad to get away from the highway and turn S for the last 0.5 mile on No. 278.

Lupe was kind of tired.  She had been running around for almost 13 hours.  It was 10:18 PM and 42°F when Lupe reached the G6.  She didn’t hesitate like she often does.  She jumped right in and curled up.  On the way home she only jumped up to bark frantically whenever SPHP said “deer!”  Other than that she snoozed and dreamed dingo dreams all the way home.

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