Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-15-22, 12:40 PM, 64ºF – After an early constitutional along the ridge overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake, Lupe spent the rest of the morning snoozing peacefully on her pink blanket in the RAV4. Tiring of the trip journal, SPHP put it away. Enough of that! Time to move on.
Cloudy and cooler today, so not much was in the works. Driving N on Hwy No. 7, SPHP eventually turned W on the Alaska Highway. After a couple of stops for supplies and fuel ($1.859 CAN/liter) in Whitehorse, Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was next.
I’m hungry, SPHP! Can you at least give me something good to eat before you treat only yourself to the hot springs?
Hah! You’re in luck, Loop! Picked up a barbecued chicken in Whitehorse. Let’s do it some damage before I go get cleaned up.
I’ll gladly help you with that chicken, SPHP! Say, this place looks vaguely familiar. Have we been here before?
Yes, several times. Used to be Takhini Hot Springs, but since we were last here a few years ago, they tore that facility down. Their fancy schmancy brand new one is open now with its glittery new name.
After hiring the water taxi to take us to Birch Mountain(6,765 ft.), can you still afford it, SPHP? Looks pretty ritzy.
Hope so. If not, I’ll be back sooner than you think, Looper.
Splurge, if you have to, SPHP. Removing a few layers of that topsoil you’re wearing wouldn’t hurt a thing!
SPHP did splurge. Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was now quite a swanky joint compared to the old Takhini Hot Springs. Sadly, prices reflected this change, but management clearly had a considerable investment to recoup. SPHP spent the better part of an hour soaking in the largest of 3 hot pools to choose from. Medium hot, it was the clear favorite of today’s guests.
How was it, SPHP? I must say, you do sniff a lot better now!
Very relaxing, Loop. Enjoyed it! Best to get here early in the day, though, if you want to save money. Paid the $29 CAN afternoon price. Only $19 CAN in the morning, $39 CAN in the evening. That’s my hot pool, hot tip of the day for Whitehorse travelers!
Felt fantastic to be clean again! Returning to the Alaska Highway, SPHP continued the drive W.
8-15-22, 8:41 PM – The turn S off the Alaska Highway came 65 km W of Whitehorse on a wide gravel road 2 km past a rest area. The RAV4 was now close to 20 km in, parked on a bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake. The sky was still gray and glum, but Lupe was in fine spirits.
At Kusawa Lake. Photo looks S.
Wow! We get to stay here tonight, SPHP? Look at how close we are to the lake!
Yup! Kusawa Lake is a lot bigger than it looks, too, Loop. We’re not far from where the Takhini River flows out the N end, so we only see a small fraction of it here. Kusawa Lake is one of these unbelievably long, skinny Canadian lakes that winds for miles back into the mountains.
Oh! Are we going to take another water taxi tomorrow then, SPHP?
Nope. Weather permitting, the plan is to climb Kusawa Ridge(5,085 ft.). It’s a popular hike only a few km from here to get to a big view of the lake from on high. Actually hoping we’ll be able to go on to Peak6400+, too. Should be some great alpine territory to roam, if we can get that far.
I love the alpine tundra, SPHP!
I know! Me, too, Loop. Ready for dinner yet? With this S breeze coming off the lake, don’t think it makes sense to try to heat anything up. We could polish off the rest of the barbeque chicken, though.
If I must, I must, SPHP. Bring it on!
8-16-22 – Morning didn’t bring much of a change. Beneath an overcast sky, the air was cool, a chilly breeze still sweeping across Kusawa Lake. By 11:00 AM, though, the day was starting to brighten and warm up. Sick of writing, SPHP stashed the trip journal again.
Sort of a late start, Looper, but maybe now’s our chance! Kusawa Ridge?
The American Dingo was all for it.
8-16-22 – Driving S past a campground, the main road came to a “T”. Consulting directions, SPHP turned R (W). After going around a bend, the road continued S. An ancient cabin soon appeared on the L (E), just before a bridge over a good-sized stream. SPHP parked the RAV4 in an empty spot big enough for several vehicles opposite the cabin.
Lupe leapt out. No signage at all, but, sure enough, a wide path headed W into the forest.
At the “T” in the main road where SPHP turned R.The cabin directly opposite the Kusawa Ridge trailhead.
8-16-22, 12:03 PM, 61ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – The sun was trying to break through the cloud cover as Lupe set off. Happily, just enough of a breeze here to keep the bugs away. The Carolina Dog barely got started on the broad, smooth path when she came to a small, sandy clearing with a stone campfire ring.
One minute in at the campfire ring. Photo looks W.
The level path went right on past the campfire ring, and the American Dingo did, too. Lupe hadn’t gone much farther when the path began veering N (R). Seemed a bit odd, since the route to Kusawa Ridge was supposed to follow the stream off to the S. However, the path was clear and wide, and SPHP hadn’t noticed any other.
Anticipating this jog N was temporary, SPHP expected the trail to curve SW back toward the stream at any moment. Instead, it persisted in its course N. When Lupe got so far that the stream couldn’t be heard any more, SPHP became suspicious.
Hang on, Loop! This can’t be right! We’re going the wrong way.
We’re lost already, SPHP? We’ve barely started!
I know, but I just assumed this big, wide path was the way to go. Instead, we’re heading directly away from the stream we’re supposed to follow.
Well, what about this path, SPHP? Maybe this is the way, or would you rather go back to the stream?
For the first time, SPHP noticed a side trail Lupe had spotted that headed WSW off the main one.
Never mind! This must be the way, Loop! Glad you saw it!
Taking the faint side trail, it wound mostly W or SW through an open forest full of scattered boulders and a fair amount of deadfall. Gradually gaining elevation, the terrain was interesting, allowing Lupe to explore a series of small ridges and valleys. At times the trail nearly faded away completely, but with careful examination, it was always found again.
On one of the largest boulders in the forest. Photo looks WNW.Following the crest of a minor ridge. Photo looks NW.
Something still wasn’t right! The Kusawa Ridge route was supposed to start off following the stream for 1.6 km, but the trail went on and on, and Lupe still couldn’t even hear it. Well, no matter. Sooner or later, she’d either have to run into the stream, or Kusawa Ridge itself.
Sure enough, the American Dingo finally did reach a steep bank, nearly a cliff, overlooking the stream. There was a much clearer trail here.
Back on track along the N bank of the stream. Photo looks SE.
Alright, think we’re back on track now, SPHP!
Yeah, we must have messed up somehow way back near the start, Loop. Think the faint route we followed here must be the way other lost souls have gone, too. Maybe we can figure it all out on the way back?
No worries, SPHP! The way we went was fine. I enjoyed it! Onward!
Turned out, Lupe had rediscovered the main trail only a short distance from the base of Kusawa Ridge. Here, a gritty path started up a very steep slope. After an initial climb, things got easier, improving further as the Carolina Dog reached young aspens up on the broad ridge.
Near the top of the initial gritty climb at the toe of Kusawa Ridge. Photo looks N.Just getting started! Kusawa Lake and Mount Coudert on the opposite shore. Photo looks SE.
The Kusawa Ridge trail featured a few level stretches, but most of the time, Lupe climbed at a good clip as the trail wound through the aspens past scenic boulders of moderate size. Curiously enough, the trail itself wasn’t particularly rocky.
The day was now sunny and warm. SPHP was shedding layers. Loop soon felt overheated in her fur coat, too, and began pawing SPHP’s legs wanting to stop. Coming to a slab of bedrock in the shade of a spruce tree, a short break was taken. While SPHP finished stripping down to a T-shirt, Lupe had a drink of water, followed up with some Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched on trail mix.
No one had been at the trailhead, and Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since then, either, but soon voices could be heard below. Apparently a nice, sunny day meant company. Setting off again before anyone appeared, Lupe continued up the ridge.
The climb up Kusawa Ridge(5,085 ft.) was straightforward. Beneath a bright blue sky and puffy white clouds, Lupe followed the trail NNW, steadily gaining elevation. Two big knobs were soon visible ahead. As the American Dingo continued higher, Peak6400+ came into view past the deep valley the creek went up.
The two big knobs come into view. Photo looks NW.Peak 6400+ (Center). Photo looks WNW.Approaching the two knobs. Photo looks NNW.
People were now visible coming up the trail, but Lupe maintained her lead. The first knob turned out to be merely a flatter region wider than the rest of the ridge. Looked like there might be some nice viewpoints overlooking Kusawa Lake off to the E, but the Carolina Dog didn’t check them out. Most of the trail already offered great views of the lake.
Continuing toward the second knob, the trail crossed an unusual region of exposed bedrock before starting to climb more steeply again. By now, blue sky was vanishing, and the breeze suddenly felt colder and stronger with each step. No longer T-shirt weather, SPHP began layering up.
On the exposed bedrock, heading for the second knob. Photo looks NNW.
Approaching the second knob, the terrain got steeper and rockier, Lupe made good progress climbing a grassier slope W of rock formations. It began to look like the American Dingo would reach the top any minute now, but higher ground kept appearing ahead.
Approaching some rock formations. Photo looks NNW.Climbing the second knob. Photo looks NNW.
By now the trail was only intermittent. There was no top to the second knob. It was all an illusion! Lupe kept climbing from one false summit to the next. Continuing to gain strength, the wind felt colder and colder. Loopster finally reached a flat region. A depression surrounded by tall vegetation appeared to be the dried up remnant of a small tarn.
Although it was tempting to seek shelter from the wind here, Loop kept going, skirting around the E side of the depression without entering it.
Still climbing. Not enjoying the wind. Photo looks NW.Near the depression. Photo looks NNW.
The depression was nearly the end. Climbing the hill beyond it among dark rocks, the terrain then began to flatten out, the rate of climb greatly diminished. Lupe reached a series of minor false summits. A top was now visible ahead. Two of them, actually, but the American Dingo didn’t need to get to HP5949, the much higher and more distant one. She was already nearly to the region considered the high point of Kusawa Ridge.
HP5929 (L of Center). Area considered the high point of Kusawa Ridge directly ahead. Photo looks NNW.
8-16-22, 3:15 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge(5,085 ft.) – The wind was 30-35 mph out of the SW as Lupe reached a cairn. The absolute high point of this region was still a few minutes farther, but the wind was so chilly and annoying, the Carolina Dog didn’t go all the way to it right away.
Instead, after paying the cairn a brief visit, she headed over to the E side of the ridge, descending a little bit to escape the worst of the wind. This was where the best views of Kusawa Lake were, anyway.
By the cairn. HP5949 (L). Photo looks N.Kusawa Lake from the E edge. Photo looks SSE.
While taking a short break here, a boy or 8 or 9 arrived at the cairn with his father. Spotting Lupe, the boy came running over wanting to pet her, an act of kindness the Carolina Dog was happy to oblige. The boy and his father soon left, though, after a few quick photos. Lupe and SPHP were alone again in the wild breeze beneath a dark sky.
The views were impressive, although perhaps not at their finest on such a gloomy day. Lupe could see the entire 9 mile long N section of Kusawa Lake, all the way S from where the Takhini River left it at the N end clear down to where the lake curved out of sight behind the mountains.
Takhini River (L), N end of Takhini Lake (R). Peak 6212 (beyond Lupe) and Vanier Peak (6,049 ft.) (R) with Mount Ingram (7,047 ft.) in the distance between them. Peak 6995 (far R). Photo looks NE.Kusawa Lake from the break spot. Photo looks SSE.
Hard to believe we’re only seeing a fraction of the lake from here, SPHP!
True enough, though, Loop! This is only about a third of Kusawa Lake.
Still say we need a water taxi to really explore it then, SPHP.
Would be fun, Loop, but don’t believe there are any water taxis here.
As soon as the short rest break was over, Lupe continued NNW to tag the true summit of Kusawa Ridge.
Looking back at the first cairn (Center) before heading off to the true summit. Photo looks SSW.
8-16-22, 3:44 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge – The true summit proved to be a minor rise of exposed bedrock with a small cairn and other loose rocks on it. A huge, light gray boulder sitting farther N near the E edge bore a cairn, too, and was almost as high. Lupe visited both, requiring a boost from SPHP to get up onto the boulder.
At the true summit of Kusawa Ridge. Boulder (L). Photo looks NNE.Kusawa Lake from the true summit. Photo looks SSE.On the light gray boulder. True summit (R). Photo looks SSE.
The views from the boulder were marvelous, but nearly identical to those at the break spot back near the first big cairn. After spending only a minute or two enjoying them, Lupe leapt down. One more high spot to visit! A short stroll W got her to a slightly elevated region of tundra and scattered rocks. No cairns, but this area was in contention for the title of true summit, too.
At the NW high point of Kusawa Ridge. HP5949 (R of Center). Photo looks NW.
Having little prominence, none of these Kusawa Ridge high points really meant much. Lupe stood on this last one facing W. Across a deep valley, Peak6400+ was more than 1,300 feet higher than where she was now.
Peak 6400+ (R of Center). Photo looks W.
Not a tree or bush in sight! Peak 6400+ was just a big rounded hill. Lupe surveyed a vast region of open tundra that swept around to it, and even way beyond to other big hills. It was all just the sort of fabulous alpine territory the American Dingo would ordinarily love to explore.
That had been the plan when the day was sunny and warm. Venture on from Kusawa Ridge to the big saddle SW of HP5949, then head up Peak 6400+’s long NW slope clear to the summit. Getting there would be a breeze, and Loopster would have such fun!
A breeze? More like a gale, SPHP! At 30-35 mph down here, no telling what kind of hurricane we’d run into up there! Not doing it! At least, not today! You’ve got a nice, new rain jacket, but what about me? If it starts raining, I’ll be soaked to the skin and freezing cold! Do you want me to catch pneumonia?
The American Dingo was right. Conditions were borderline unpleasant already. Continuing on to Peak 6400+ was asking for trouble. If it did start to rain, misery and hypothermia would almost certainly result. Couldn’t rule it out, either, with the sky the way it was.
Reluctantly, a mere 35 minutes after Lupe reached the first big cairn, SPHP conceded the point. May as well start back.
Starting down. Photo looks SSE.
While still in the high country, SPHP couldn’t help but gaze SW over to the many peaks Lupe might easily explore under better conditions.
Unexplored territory made for adventure! Photo looks SW.
If we ever come back, we could bring the tiny house with us, Looper. A few days worth of supplies, and you could roam for miles!
Keep Peak 6400+ on my list of possibilities, SPHP! Maybe someday we will!
The rather steep descent was easy and went fast, enjoying a fabulous view of Kusawa Lake ahead nearly all the way. Not far from the top, Lupe did check out the depression this time around. It truly did offer some protection from the wind.
In the depression. Photo looks N.Heading down. Photo looks SSE.
Loss of elevation did, too. The sky remained cloudy during the descent, but conditions steadily improved. The wind died down, the air warmed up, and SPHP was shedding layers again.
Back down to a more hospitable clime. Photo looks SSE.
Once off Kusawa Ridge, this time, Lupe managed to follow the correct trail all the rest of the way back to the trailhead. It stayed much closer to the stream than the one erroneously taken on the way up. For a while it ran right along the edge of the steep N bank. Several times SPHP had to grab hold of trees in order to get past sections that had collapsed into stream’s gaping, rocky ravine.
Most of the time, though, the trail stayed a little N of the ravine back in the forest. The route was confusing, braided, and difficult to follow in places, which SPHP found surprising. Looper, on the other paw, loved how it wound around, and often led the way.
Very curious on exactly where this route had been missed on the way up, SPHP was surprised again when Lupe suddenly came to the stone campfire ring in the sandy clearing only a minute from the trailhead. The correct path, which veered toward the L (SW) here on the way in, was unmarked, and not at all obvious. No wonder!
8-16-22, 5:16 PM, 62ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – Perfect timing! Two minutes after Lupe leapt back into the RAV4, it started to sprinkle. SPHP drove N back to the same flat, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake where she’d spent last night. The wind was blowing this way across the lake again, making heating anything up for dinner a pain.
Back at the grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake. Photo looks S.
Want to share a can of salmon, Loop? I don’t have to cook that.
You know I love salmon, SPHP!
Sharing salmon and Ritz crackers, Lupe and SPHP watched a storm move in. Sprinkles gave way to mist. Dusk brought whitecaps as rain swept Kusawa Lake, and a steady patter began on the roof of the RAV4.
Good thing Lupe hadn’t gone on to Peak 6400+, but at least she’d made it to Kusawa Ridge!
On Kusawa Ridge, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-16-22
Part 2 of Day 12, and Days 13 & 14 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-10-22, morning – The 20 mile backwoods drive to pavement near the bridge over the Kispiox River took a while. SPHP stopped for fuel and supplies at old Hazelton, then again at a Subway in New Hazelton to buy a couple of Great Canadian footlongs before driving W on Yellowhead Highway No. 16.
Sunny and warm. Not a cloud in the sky! After Lupe’s titanic day getting to Kispiox Mountain(6,877 ft.), and a memorable, but unplanned night out on Moonlit Mountain(5,951 ft.), the relaxing drive quickly made SPHP super drowsy. It didn’t take long at all to get to Seeley Lake.
Ugh! Can’t drive any farther, Looper. Going to stop here at the rest area.
What? It’s not even close to noon yet, SPHP, and the AC feels good.
I’ll put the windows down for you, Loop, but I’ve simply got to take a nap before I pass out.
The Seeley Lake rest area was empty when SPHP parked the RAV4, but soon plenty of people and vehicles were coming and going. So what? Famished, SPHP devoured one of the footlongs, sharing some of it with Lupe, then chugged a bunch of orange juice. Had to move the RAV4 a few times during the next 2 or 3 hours to keep it in the shade, but other than that, SPHP was dead to the world.
8-10-22, 1:15 PM, Seeley Lake –
About time, SPHP! How are you feeling? Can we keep going? It’s hot, and I’m roasting!
Feeling much better, Loop! You slept, too. Don’t tell me you didn’t!
Driving W again on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 after leaving Seeley Lake, SPHP eventually turned N on Cassiar Highway No. 37. The rest of the day was spent cruising N on the Cassiar.
Laying on her pink blanket, either looking out the window or snoozing as she pleased, Lupe rode in air-conditioned comfort as mile after scenic mile rolled by. The temperature hit a searing 87ºF and stayed there for hours, so brief stops were few and far between.
8-10-22, 7:21 PM – Drove a long way today! Very enjoyable, too, but this was far enough. The Carolina Dog stood on the N bank of the Stikine River, a favorite stop along the Cassiar, but this would be the first time she’d ever gotten to stay here overnight.
The river was running low in August. A mostly forested mountain was on the other side. The top was was open, though. Looked pretty easy. Might be fun to climb it someday, but it wasn’t on Lupe’s list this year. Never hurts to dream, though!
C’mon, Loop! Want to go look for squirrels?
The American Dingo dashed off into the trees.
Evening along the Stikine River. Photo looks SE.
8-11-22, 8:02 AM, Stikine River – Morning began with a walk along the river, followed by a longer stroll on the old road leading to the property where they rent horses. Lupe found a squirrel to bark at, which made her happy, then it was back to Cassiar Highway No. 37.
Start of a new day down by the Stikine River. Photo looks WSW.
At Dease Lake, SPHP treated the RAV4 to 91 octane gasoline at a mere $2.119 CAN per liter. Might as well, regular wasn’t much less, and it wasn’t like you could shop around here.
8-11-22, 10:58 AM, Cottonwood River – The RAV4 purred like a kitten, but by the time Lupe reached the Cottonwood River, a chance to get out and stretch for a few minutes was sounding like a good idea. Turned out there were 2 rest areas here. The one with a sign was on the S side, but didn’t provide access to the river, which was down a steep bank.
The unsigned N rest area, though, was awesome! Lupe could go right down to the confluence of the Cottonwood River and a beautiful large tributary joining in from the N. Immediately below the confluence was an enormous deep pool, which would have made a great swimming hole during yesterday’s heat wave, but it was considerably cooler out today.
By the Cottonwood River. Photo looks SW.
Wow, we ought to camp here, SPHP! This is gorgeous!
Can’t today, Loop. We’ve got hundreds of miles to go yet, but I do agree. As far as a place to camp along the Cassiar Highway, this has got to be about the best spot we’ve ever seen. We’ll have to spend a night here sometime.
8-11-22, 1:06 PM, British Columbia/Yukon Territory border – Had to stop here! Lupe stood by the big Yukon Larger Than Life sign. The sign had been brand new and unblemished back when the Carolina Dog reached it the very first time back in 2016. Now it was plastered with stickers, as it had been every year since.
Arriving at the Yukon Territory border! Photo looks N.
The Yukon! I can’t believe we’re back, SPHP! Remember how happy we were the first time we got here?
I’ll never forget it, Loop. I practically cried, I was so happy seeing you by this sign.
After a short romp in the woods just to get the circulation going, it was back to the RAV4. The junction with the Alaska Highway was only 2 miles N. Time to turn W!
8-11-22, 4:42 PM, Teslin Lake – Gasoline prices were better in Teslin, only $1.899 CAN per liter, so SPHP filled the RAV4 this time. It was just a little farther to the rest area along Teslin Lake where Lupe and SPHP always stopped for a look at the Dawson Peaks.
Dawson Peaks (Center) from Teslin Lake. Photo looks SE.
The huge lake was higher than Lupe had ever seen it before, but that wasn’t what SPHP was thinking about. During the afternoon drive W on the Alaska Highway, the sky had gradually clouded up. No blue sky at all now in any direction. Not good!
Teslin Lake beneath an overcast sky. Photo looks NW.
At Teslin, SPHP had managed to get a weather forecast for Atlin. Decent day tomorrow, then 3 cloudy days in a row, followed by 4 days of rain. Hot and sunny like yesterday would have been ideal. The big question was, how cloudy would it get? A low ceiling would ruin everything.
By the time Lupe reached Jake’s Corner, a leaden sky had SPHP full of doubt. Far to the S, a long sought objective, which was supposed to be one of the American Dingo’s grandest adventures of this entire Dingo Vacation, was now visible on the horizon. The sky was lighter there.
7-26-22, home, Black Hills of South Dakota –
Find out anything yet, SPHP?
No, but I might have a lead, Loop! Remember when we met Peter Sidler, owner of Glacier View Cabins in Atlin back in 2019, when we were trying to find a way to get across Atlin Lake? Tried calling him to see if he’s got any motorboats to rent that we could reserve, but didn’t get an answer. However, just searching the internet, I found an interesting article dated 11-10-21 in Adventures NW magazine. It’s called An Island in the Sky, written by Lawrence Millman.
Is it about Teresa Island, SPHP?
Yes, it is, Loop! In fact, this article is about the only thing I can find that mentions anything at all about climbing Birch Mountain(6,765 ft.). Millman talks about hiring an Austrian mountaineer-artist guide who has a motorboat. The guide took him to the NW side of Teresa Island. They went a long way up an avalanche chute to avoid “virtually impenetrable forests”, but Lawrence decided to turn back before reaching the summit.
We could hire the same guide, SPHP!
Yeah, that’s what I’m thinking, Loopster, if he isn’t too expensive. Bet it’s not cheap, though! And what’s this “we could hire” business? You aren’t chipping in!
Oh, yes I am! At least, in a way. Does the article say how to contact this guide, SPHP? You should call him! Here’s a suggestion that might save you big money. Don’t ask for guide service, just ask how much it costs for him to get us to Teresa Island and back. We’ll find our own way up Birch Mountain.
Silly Dingo! That’s been the plan all along! We just need a way to get to and from Teresa Island. Unfortunately, the article doesn’t give any contact information. However, it does say the guide’s name is Gernot Dick. Peter Sidler has been in Atlin for decades. If he doesn’t have any motorboats to rent, he’ll know how to find Gernot!
In the evening, Edith Sidler, Peter’s wife, answered the phone when SPHP called Glacier View Cabins again. Peter was unavailable, but Edith knew the scoop. As in 2019, they had kayaks to rent, but no motorboats available. The news on Gernot Dick was disappointing, too. They knew Gernot, but he’d moved away, and wasn’t in Atlin anymore.
Edith had a suggestion on who to call, though. Bobby Smallwood! She gave SPHP a phone number for him. If that didn’t work, SPHP should try hanging out at the Mountain Shack restaurant near the gas bar in Atlin. Someone there ought to have an idea on how to get to Teresa Island.
Bobby Smallwood’s wife, Jodie, answered the number Edith provided. Bobby was unavailable, too, but Jodie answered SPHP’s questions. No, they didn’t have any motorboat rentals, but they did have a boat, and could provide water taxi services. $350 CAN per hour. Figure an hour total for both drop-off and pickup from the closest part of Teresa Island.
7-28-22, home, Black Hills of South Dakota –
Just talked to Bobby Smallwood, Loopster! He confirmed that their water taxi service is $350 CAN per hour. Told him to expect us sometime within the next 2 or 3 weeks. An hour minimum for both drop-off and pickup, and potentially quite a bit more depending on where we want to start.
So, we’ve got a way over to Teresa Island! That’s fantastic, SPHP! Did Mr. Smallwood know anything about the best way up Birch Mountain?
He’s never been up there, Loop. Hardly anyone goes to Teresa Island with the intention of climbing Birch. Peter Sidler’s been up it at least twice, though. Remember how he told us that the best approach was along a rock slide on the SE part of the island? Bobby told me about a rock slide on the E side of Teresa Island at 12 mile point that might be a good place to start. Maybe that’s the same spot Peter recommended? Bobby also knew about the avalanche chutes on the Torres Channel side of the island.
Torres Channel? What side of Teresa Island is that, SPHP?
NW side, Looper. No doubt one of those avalanche chutes is the same one that Gernot Dick took Lawrence Millman up.
8-11-22, 6:00 PM, Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner – After pondering the gloomy gray sky for 15 minutes, SPHP reluctantly came to a decision.
I don’t know, Loopster. Guess we’ve got to forget about Birch Mountain for the time being. Hate to, but I’m no good at timed events. Since we have no idea on what to expect if we do manage to get to Teresa Island, I’m not even going to attempt it unless we have at least 3 consecutive days of good weather in the forecast. I better call Bobby Smallwood, and tell him we’re not coming.
Oh, SPHP! Are you sure? We’ve been wanting to climb Birch Mountain ever since we first went to Atlin in 2018. Remember how beautiful and mysterious Birch looked when we saw it from Monarch Mountain then? Birch Mountain is the 2nd most prominent lake island in the world, and it’s so close! We’ve got to climb it! We won’t get a million chances, you know! It’s been 3 years since the last time we were here.
I’m sorry, Looper. I don’t want to pay a bunch of money to get to Teresa Island, only to find out that Birch Mountain is socked in with fog by the time we manage to get to the summit. We need a better forecast. Tell ya what, I’ll let Bobby Smallwood know we might swing by in September, weather permitting, on our way home. Who knows? We might get lucky.
No cell service at Jake’s corner? Every attempt to call Bobby Smallwood on the new iPhone had dropped without even ringing once. Maybe SPHP was doing something wrong? The decent thing to do would be to drive down to Atlin, and let Bobby know Lupe wasn’t going to Teresa Island at this time, instead of flaking out and being a no show. Atlin was an hour S, though.
8-11-22, 7:00 PM, a ridge off Hwy No. 7 – The American Dingo stood at a favorite spot with a great view of Mount Minto(6,913 ft.) and the N end of Atlin Lake. Still a long way S, both Birch Mountain(6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain(6,722 ft.) were in sight, too.
Birch Mountain (far L) and Atlin Mountain (L) beyond Atlin Lake. Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.Zoomed in on Birch Mountain (L) and Atlin Mountain (Center). Photo looks S.
The sky really is lighter down this way, Loop. Maybe I’m being too hasty? You’re right about having limited chances to ever climb Birch Mountain.
Since we’re going to Atlin in the morning, anyway, SPHP, let’s decide what to do then.
Shortly before sundown, sunlight was clearly visible on Birch Mountain.
Birch Mountain. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
8-12-22, 7:55 AM, Atlin – For the first time in 3 years, Lupe stood down by the Tarahne along the E shore of Atlin Lake. Both Birch Mountain and Atlin Mountain were in sight right across the lake, and guess what? The sky was clear as a bell, a beautiful blue, with scarcely a cloud in sight! Even SPHP was excited! Maybe Birch Mountain was going to work out?
By the Atlin welcome sign on the way into town.By the Tarahne. Birch Mountain (L). Photo looks SW.Atlin Mountain (Center) from Atlin, BC. Photo looks WSW.
Bobby said there isn’t any cell phone service here in Atlin, Loop. I’m going to see if I can use a phone in the hotel to give him a call. You’ll have to wait in the RAV4 for a few minutes.
Odd. Already 8:00 AM, and no one was at the front desk. The lights weren’t even on. SPHP hung around for 10 minutes. A guest came by wanting to check out, but still no staff to be seen.
So, what did Mr. Smallwood say, SPHP?
Nothing. Haven’t spoken to him yet, Loop. Couldn’t use the phone in there.
How are we going to find him then, SPHP?
I don’t know. Guess we’ll do like Edith Sidler said, and ask around for him at the Mountain Shack.
The Mountain Shack was only a few blocks away. Lupe waited in the RAV4 again, while SPHP went in. 6 or 7 men were sitting at a long table having breakfast, the only customers in the restaurant.
Pardon me, but would any of you gentlemen happen to know where I might be able to find Bobby Smallwood?
Everyone roared with laughter, like this was some huge joke.
We were just talking about Bobby! He’s got a big shop with a red roof, and a house out Surprise Lake Road across from the airport. It’s not far, 3 km. You’ll find him.
Bobby Smallwood was at home, working on machinery in his front yard. Yup, still $350 CAN per hour for water taxi service. Closest part of Teresa Island near the N end would be about $350. $700 to get to 12 Mile Point, or $850 to the SE rock slide Peter Sidler had recommended 3 years ago. SPHP didn’t even ask about the Torres Channel avalanche chutes.
If you’re not sure what you want to do, you can take a drive S down to Warm Bay, and have a look at the E side of Teresa Island from there.
I might do that. Thanks, Mr. Smallwood!
SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Atlin airport. The American Dingo went into her usual barking frenzy as a helicopter landed. The pilot leapt out, and began unloading big gray plastic boxes full of fresh-caught salmon. Two men ran over to stack the boxes on a pallet carried by a forklift. The helicopter took off again as soon as the last box was unloaded.
Well, shoot! Hoped to get a chance to talk to the pilot, Loop!
How come, SPHP?
Wanted to check what it would cost to fly to Birch Mountain.
Me in a helicopter, SPHP? Are you serious?
That would be quite the adventure, wouldn’t it, Looper? Anyway, doesn’t hurt to ask. Looks like they’re mighty busy, though. Might as well take a drive down to Warm Bay.
Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP kept peering into the forest on both sides. Everyone, even Lawrence Millwood’s article, seemed to be under the impression that the forests on Teresa Island were impassable, which must be why the recommended routes were always avalanche chutes, rock slides, and such.
The forests over here were thick, but didn’t look impassable. Might be an entirely different situation on seldom visited Teresa Island, though.
8-12-22, 10:07 AM, Warm Bay – After getting a drink, Lupe stood along the shore of Atlin Lake, a few slowly drowning bushes beyond her. The whole NE side of Teresa Island was in sight, but the even longer SE end wasn’t. Should have been able to identify 12 Mile Point from here, but it didn’t really stand out.
Birch Mountain on Teresa Island from Warm Bay, Atlin Lake. Photo looks WNW.
So, what do you think, SPHP?
Oh, I don’t know, Looper. Ought to have binoculars! Teresa Island does look somewhat rockier down this way, but I don’t see any big rock slide we could go up like I was expecting. The E side of the island is steeper than the N side, too. To tell the truth, I’m really not seeing anything that makes me want to pay twice as much to start out from 12 Mile Point.
Well, it sure is a beautiful day, SPHP! Have you decided yet if we’re even going to Teresa Island? Did Bobby Smallwood have an updated weather forecast?
Yeah, he did. Practically identical to yesterday’s. Clear today, followed by 3 cloudy days before it starts raining. No guarantees on conditions at the summit, of course, but Bobby didn’t think we’d have a problem.
Are we really going then, SPHP, or not?
Such a perfect day today, that I’m leaning toward it, Looper. If tomorrow was going to be this clear, we’d be going for sure. Let’s head back to Atlin. We’ll make another attempt to check on helicopter prices, then we’ll have all the data.
Alright, but you’re just procrastinating, SPHP! Time’s a-wasting!
Back in Atlin, SPHP stopped by Discovery Helicopters. Matt, the owner, lived in a house practically right next to the helipad.
Birch Mountain? Yes, we can take you and your dog. The boat is going to be a lot cheaper, though.
Matt quoted prices anywhere from $1,500 to $1,900 CAN. That included both drop-off and pickup with as much or little time in between as SPHP wanted. Cheaper to get dropped off high on the mountain, because that saved fuel. Price could be split with other passengers, if anyone else was going. Matt’s smaller copter, which would cost a little less, was out all day on a job, but would be available tomorrow.
SPHP hesitated. A pretty penny to be sure, but Lupe could be on Birch today in excellent weather instead of taking a chance on tomorrow, and whether or not it was really possible to force a way thousands of feet up the mountain through trackless primeval forest.
You know, you could climb Sentinel Mountain(6,316 ft.). Go anytime you like for free, and not have to depend on anyone else. Sentinel’s also has a terrific view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier, too.
Yeah, I know, Matt. Appreciate the suggestion. Brought maps of Sentinel, but it isn’t Birch, second most prominent lake island peak in the world.
Matt smiled. He knew.
Tell you what. I’ve got another flight this morning, and have to get going. Should be back by 1:00 PM. Think about it. If you decide you want me to take you, come around anytime after that, and we’ll get you over there.
SPHP tried checking on the helicopter company at the airport one more time. Same thing as before. The copter soon came in again and landed, but took off immediately after being unloaded.
They’re too busy here, SPHP. You’re never going to get to talk to them. Price will be about the same, anyway. Decision time!
8-12-22, 11:00 AM, Surprise Lake Road E of Atlin – Bobby Smallwood was at his shop now. SPHP showed him a topo map.
Bobby, see this little island on the E side of Teresa Island about even with the N end of Birch Mountain? Is there somewhere around that area where you could drop us off?
Sure can! That’s Sandy Beach. Dropping you off there will be easy, but that’s several kilometers S of the closest part of the island. We’ll have to charge you a little more than an hour’s worth of time. You OK with that?
Yes, that’s fine. We don’t want to have to push through any more forest than we have to.
Great! Are you ready to go?
Not quite. Give us 30 or 40 minutes, and we will be. Where should we meet you, and where can I park the RAV4?
I’ve got some rental cabins down by the marina just S of the hotel. You can park anywhere near the docks there.
8-12-22, 11:54 AM, Atlin Lake – Lupe was excited! After years of waiting for this moment, the Carolina Dog was aboard Bobby Smallwood’s boat, speeding across the waves straight for Teresa Island! Unbelievable!
En route to Teresa Island with Captain Smallwood at the helm!
Wouldn’t take long to get there. 15 or 20 minutes? Something like that. Almost yelling over the roar of the engine, SPHP outlined the plan. Pick up was to be at the same spot 2 days from now, an hour before sunset. A discussion about contingencies in case something went wrong ensued. Mr. Smallwood had no qualms about any of what SPHP proposed.
8-12-22, 12:07 PM, Teresa Island – Couldn’t have picked a better spot to land! While most of Teresa Island was heavily forested right down to the water’s edge, Sandy Beach really was sandy. However, as Bobby throttled down, and the boat drifted in towards shore, SPHP could see a deep, slimy lagoon 15 feet beyond the beach. Complaining to Bobby, he was unperturbed, merely steering off toward a slightly different spot where the bow slid into the sand.
Arriving at Sandy Beach on Teresa Island. Photo looks N.Lupe with Bobby Smallwood.
Lupe and SPHP leapt down onto the sand. A moment later, Bobby fired up the engine, and was off.
Bobby heads back to Atlin. Photo looks NE.
Oh, my gosh, SPHP! We’re actually here! Alone on Teresa Island!
Yup! Incredible, isn’t it? We’ve really gone and done it this time, haven’t we, Loopster? This might be our greatest adventure ever! Let’s see if we can find a way around this lagoon. It’s still here, too!
Sandy Beach was easily several hundred feet long. Turning SE, Lupe sniffed her way along the edge of Atlin Lake toward the point near the island. Thankfully, the icky lagoon didn’t extend that far.
Sandy Beach. Photo looks SE toward the island just off shore.
It was a gorgeous day, sunny and warm! So happy to be here! SPHP felt great about the decision. Near the point by the island, Loopster found a stone campfire ring with a couple of rusty, old metal grates propped up against a tree next to it. Even more surprising was a sign indicating the presence of an outhouse. An arrow pointed into the forest.
Outhouse sign at Sandy Beach.
There’s a path! Let’s check it out, SPHP!
OK, Loop, but give me a moment. I want to have a look at the Peakbagger app on the iPhone to get our bearings before we leave. Might help us find this spot on the way back in a couple of days.
The app said Birch Mountain’s summit was 4.5 miles SW. SPHP made a note of it.
Can’t you just start a GPS track, SPHP?
I could, if I knew how, Loop, but I don’t yet. No worries. This will do.
The path went more than 100 feet into the forest before dead-ending at a big green, open-air potty. It was in great condition. Looked like new.
The green throne.
I’m guessing privacy isn’t a big concern here on Teresa Island, Loop.
You humans are funny about that, SPHP, but I think you’re right. Bet we own the whole island right now! It’s our own private empire!
Maybe. Who knows what’s out here, Loopster? Anyway, our long-sought moment of truth has arrived. Time to find out if this forest is really, truly impassable, and I’ve just blown $400 CAN for nothing, or not. Onward! Puppy ho!
Beyond the green potty, the forest looked like no one had ever been here before. It was dense, but not impassable here at the start. The deadfall wasn’t all that bad, but branches were everywhere. Lupe could sneak through with relative ease, but SPHP’s progress was very slow. The air was still, the forest completely silent except for the constant snapping of branches as SPHP pushed on through.
At first, the ground was nearly flat, but Loopster soon began gradually gaining elevation. The idea was to head W or WNW for a couple of km over to where the Carolina Dog could turn S up Birch Mountain’s N slope. From a distance, that route had always appeared to be easiest. If Lupe could get above treeline, SPHP believed success was just about guaranteed, since the upper regions of the mountain were barren and not as steep.
SPHP thrashed through the forest taking the path of least resistance. The forest floor became a soft, spongy carpet of thick, green moss. A variety of mushrooms, some of them enormous, sprang forth from it. No views at all. Nothing could be seen except the immediate vicinity.
The first sign that anyone, or anything, had ever been here came half an hour after leaving Sandy Beach.
Look, SPHP! A trail!
The seldom used trail was clear enough to follow NW as it slowly gained elevation.
Loopster on the trail. Photo looks SSE.One of the big mushrooms.
Unfortunately, the trail soon curved N, the wrong direction. Lupe stuck with it a little farther, but when the trail began to lose elevation, she abandoned it to resume her explorations W.
45 minutes after leaving the trail, the American Dingo reached a clearing full of thick vegetation. This turned out to be a boggy region, but since it wasn’t all that wet, and SPHP could avoid the relatively few holes full of water, traveling through the bog was easier than staying in the forest.
For the first time, Lupe now had a view of a rounded barren high point at the N end of Birch Mountain. It was literally thousands of feet higher.
Upper N end of Birch Mountain (L of Center) from the bog. Photo looks WSW.
Holy smokers, Loop! We’ve been gaining a little more elevation lately, but it looks like we’ve hardly made any progress at all!
Well, what did you expect, SPHP, a walk in the park? Hasn’t been that long since we left Sandy Beach, and rumor has it that Birch Mountain is the 2nd most prominent lake island peak in the world. In fact, you’re the one who has been spreading it! Keep going!
The bog was more extensive than it first appeared. Lupe eventually crossed two streams so small that SPHP could simply step over them. When the bog finally ended, it was back into the forest.
Traveling through the bog. Photo looks ESE.
It was warm and muggy. The rate of climb was increasing. Lupe started playing her stalking game, hanging back until SPHP was completely out of sight before following. A little nerve wracking in such a wild place, but SPHP was making a lot of noise, and she always appeared quickly when called.
8-12-22, 2:09 PM, in the forest on Teresa Island –
Loop, come! Let’s take a break here!
As SPHP stripped down to a T-shirt, slinking stealthily through the forest, Lupe reappeared and laid down.
Taking it easy at the first rest break spot.
Hungry, Looper?
No, not yet. I’m hot, like you. Must be nice to have removable fur!
It is! Don’t know how you manage with the same outfit no matter whether it’s hot, cold, or in-between. How about some water?
I don’t have much choice, SPHP, and yes to the water thing.
Should cool off some as we gain elevation, and it gets later in the day, Loop. Wish you’d stay in sight. Your stalking game is kind of dangerous in a place like this. Remember the lynx at Donjek Crossing Mountain? You might have been a goner within seconds, if you hadn’t come back when you did.
We haven’t even seen a squirrel yet, SPHP!
Yeah, well, we hadn’t seen a lynx until we did, either. Anyway, I’m greatly encouraged! This forest isn’t impassable. We’re making progress. Slow, but I feel certain we’re going to make it, don’t you?
If I don’t have a heat stroke, I will. Really no harder than plenty of other places we’ve been.
Continuing on, it was nearly impossible to tell how much farther W Lupe needed to go before turning S. The terrain was getting quite noticeably steeper, and it seemed like she still wasn’t far enough W yet. Progress was improving, though. The trees were farther apart now, creating open lanes where SPHP didn’t have to be constantly battling branches.
Loopster kept hanging back playing her stalking game. SPHP frequently paused to make certain she never stayed out of sight long.
In the more open forest. Photo looks WSW.
8-12-22, 3:29 PM, Teresa Island, 2nd rest break in the forest –
So, what does your Peakbagger app say now, SPHP?
Says it’s a good thing we’ve got lots of time. We’ve been on Teresa Island for more than 3 hours, Loop, and Birch Mountain’s summit is still 3.6 miles SSW.
We aren’t even a mile closer yet? We’ve must have gone farther than that, SPHP!
Yeah, no doubt, Looper, but not directly toward the summit.
Shortly after the second rest break, the mountain became much steeper. SPHP tried to lead Lupe farther W, but the terrain often seemed to be forcing her SSW instead. At least, that was directly toward the summit. Better not get too steep, though!
After gaining quite a bit of elevation, Lupe came to a second trail. She didn’t follow it very far, since it was just a level path that really wasn’t any help getting up the mountain. Climbing SW, small rock formations began to appear. Dense stands of young trees formed almost impossible barriers, forcing sideways traverses W. Even Lupe was having trouble. SPHP had to boost the American Dingo up some ledges, and often had to cling to trees.
However, none of it was actually impassable or scary steep, and small clearings were now appearing, along with distant views. Atlin Lake was in sight, and way off toward the N end, Mount Minto(6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock(5,886 ft.) were, too!
At a steep clearing with a few rocks. Photo looks SSW.Mount Minto (L) and Mount Hitchcock (L of Center) on the horizon. N end of Teresa Island and Atlin Lake in the foreground. Photo looks NNE.
The stalking game was over! Suddenly energized by the challenge, the Carolina Dog kept right up with SPHP, climbing aggressively.
8-12-22, 5:33 PM, Birch Mountain’s N slope – Sheesh! Still 3.2 miles SSW to the summit. Lupe had only made 0.4 mile in the last 2 hours! The news was otherwise excellent, though.
The Carolina Dog was near treeline now, with only scattered stands of conifers still above, otherwise just open slopes of grass and low tundra vegetation. Big rock slides and a long snowbank were a short distance W. The view of Atlin Mountain(6,722 ft.) and Atlin Lake back to the N was spectacular!
Near treeline on Birch Mountain’s N slope. Photo looks SSW.Looking N. Atlin Mountain (L), Mount Minto (Center), Mount Hitchcock (R of Center).
Unopposed by anything other than gravity now, progress was much more rapid. Clearly enjoying roaming the open territory, Loopster led the way, while SPHP huffed and puffed. A final tree appeared, a small, brown, dead evergreen still a couple hundred feet higher. Getting to it, another small tree was higher yet and even farther ahead.
Above treeline on Birch Mountain’s N slope. Photo looks SSW.Heading for yet another “last” small tree (Center). Photo looks S.
Rinse and repeat! Lupe was always climbing toward an apparent high point, only to find another long upward trudge ahead upon reaching it, but the rate of climb was diminishing. More tundra appeared. Couldn’t be too much farther to a top!
Still climbing, on more tundra and fewer rocks now. Photo looks S.Atlin Mountain from the N end of Birch Mountain. Torres Channel of Atlin Lake (Center and R). Photo looks NW.
Oh, yeah? It was still farther than it looked, but the climb was getting easier and easier as the grade steadily diminished. Lupe finally reached a plateau strewn with football-sized rocks among low tundra. A glorious sight was ahead.
SPHP, look! There it is! Birch Mountain’s summit!
Can’t be much farther! Onward! Puppy ho! Photo looks S.On the 5,200+ foot plateau. Birch Mountain summit (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.
8-12-22, 6:57 PM, 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain – SPHP dumped the heavy pack. Ugh! Much better!
We made it, Loop! How awesome is this? Too bad it’s so rocky, or we’d camp right here. Let’s take a break, and have a look at these fantabulous views!
From the N end of Birch Mountain, Atlin Lake stretching away to the N with Atlin Mountain to the NW, and Mount Minto and Mount Hitchcock on opposite sides near the far end of the lake were the most impressive sights, but the grand panorama included many beautiful peaks in other directions, too.
Atlin Lake from the 5,200+ foot plateau. Photo looks N.Mount Minto (L) and Mount Hitchcock (L of Center) near the far end on opposite sides of Atlin Lake. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.Zoomed in on Mount Minto (L) and Mount Hitchcock (R). Photo looks N.
Monarch Mountain(4,728 ft.), which Lupe had climbed in 2018, was in view to the NE, and the town of Atlin was visible a few miles farther N along the E shore.
Atlin (far L) along the opposite shore of Atlin Lake. Monarch Mountain (R of Center) just beyond Five Mile Bay. Photo looks NE.Atlin (L of Center) along Atlin Lake. Airport (far R). Photo looks NNE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Birch Mountain was huge! This 5,200+ foot plateau Lupe had reached at the N end, was just the start. The summit was still 2.6 miles SSW beyond a deep valley. Directly S, a vast region of easy terrain gradually rose 900 feet toward a hill at the W end of a long ridge coming up from the E. An enormous snowbank ran along the N side of the ridge.
Looking SSE from the 5,200+ foot plateau.
8-12-22, 7:24 PM, 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain –
Well, Loop, had enough of a break? Are you ready to move on? We might as well go as far as we can before pitching your tiny house.
I suppose we better, SPHP. Looks like there are some grassy regions on the way to that next big hill. Maybe we can pitch it somewhere over there?
Heading SSW, straight for the true summit, Lupe crossed the rest of the 5,200+ foot plateau. A gradual descent of 100 feet got her to a snowbank in a shallow ravine draining toward the E that cut across the mountain.
Heading toward the summit (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.Cooling off on the delightful snowbank. Photo looks. WNW.
From the ravine, it was all uphill. The terrain was easy, but exhaustion was taking a toll. Lupe pressed on, going up a series of grassy benches until they were about to end, and give way to rockier terrain.
8-12-22, 8:20 PM, Birch Mountain, 2.2 miles NNE of the summit – What a day! 1.5 hours before sunset, SPHP pitched Lupe’s tiny house in a grassy nook sheltered by a 6 foot high escarpment topped by low bushes. The air was calm and comfortably cool. Clouds of gnats and a few pesky mosquitoes danced in the evening sun.
Look at that magnificent view, Loop! Still hard to believe we’re actually here on Teresa Island after dreaming of this for years, but proof is all around us! Not a cloud in the sky, either, and we’re in great position. If this weather will hold overnight, we’ll make it to the summit!
How high do you think we are here, SPHP?
Around 5,300 feet, Loop, maybe a little more.
The views are splendid, SPHP, but I’m tired and hungry. Can we rest now?
Absolutely, sweet puppy! Super big day tomorrow! We better be ready!
Base camp, Birch Mountain on Teresa Island, British Columbia, Canada 8-12-22
