Mount Sittichinli, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada – Part 2: Peak 1402M to Base Camp (8-9-23)

Part 2 of Day 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

3:15 PM While SPHP compared the scene to the NNW to a rather fuzzy printout of the topo map, Lupe rested on a small patch of tundra near the W edge of the Peak 1402M summit region, the only soft spot amid a jumble of talus.

Figure out which one is Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) yet, SPHP?

Resting along the W edge of Peak 1402M. Pass 1350M (R) below in front of Peak 1360M (R). Photo looks WSW.

Yeah, I think so, Looper.  Believe it’s the pointy one toward the W (L).

Mount Sittichinli from Peak 1402M. Photo looks NNW.

Oh, that’s bad, isn’t it?  Weren’t you hoping that the one toward the E (R) was Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?

Yeah.  We’ll have to go right over the E one, anyway, just to get at the W one.  Furthermore, I don’t like the looks of that cliffy spot on the E side of the W one, Loopster.  We might not be able to get past it.  The only other option would be to come at the W peak from the SW.  Appears to be an easy climb from that direction, but would involve more distance and a massive elevation loss first, every bit of which we’d have to regain and then some.

A discouraging conclusion, but certainly not an impossible situation yet.  In any case, the Carolina Dog hadn’t come all this way to give up based solely on a smoky, distant, initial view.  Lupe returned briefly to Peak 1402M’s summit.  Then it was Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Near Peak 1402M’s summit shortly before departing. Photo looks NE.

The original plan had been to continue N right on over Peak 1402M, but since the N face had proven to be a cliff, that wasn’t possible.  Lupe had to pick her way back down the S slope again, the same way she’d come up.  Once down far enough to easily turn W, the American Dingo quickly discovered that she’d have to go farther W than expected in order to avoid an extensive field of talus.

Successfully off Peak 1402M (R), but facing a huge rock hop. Photo looks N.

Circling farther W into the Pass 1350M region as she gradually turned N, Lupe managed to get around not only the worst of the talus, but to a flat region of scree, dirt, and a little tundra near the top of the pass.  Progress was suddenly super easy again, and there was quite a different view of Peak 1402M from here.

Peak 1402M (Center) from super easy terrain. Photo looks E.

Looks like the Rock of Gibraltar from this angle, SPHP!

Aye!  Does bear some resemblance, doesn’t it, Looper?  Hence our forced side trip.

Swinging around to the NE, a tan ridge of modest height was ahead.  The ridge Lupe had seen from Peak 1402M that she needed to follow NNE lay beyond it.  How steep a drop might be involved getting to the NNE ridge was a matter of some concern.  Another Rock of Gibraltar situation would be a disaster.

Tan ridge (L). Peak 1402M (R). Photo looks ESE.
Approaching the lower NW end of the tan ridge. Photo looks NE.

Cresting the tan ridge, a steepish slope of dirt, scree, and tundra led down to a broad saddle and the first hill along the NNE ridge beyond it.  No sudden drop-offs or any other obstacles.  Nothing to it!  Peak 1340M, a rounded hill of talus was already visible at the far end.

Peak 1340M (L) from the tan ridge. Photo looks NE.

This first saddle along the NNE ridge was by far the deepest.  Heading down to it, Lupe suddenly stopped, staring intently toward its W edge.

Caribou, SPHP!

Caribou near the saddle N of Peak 1402M.
5 of 6 caribou in this small herd.

Sure enough!  Half a dozen caribou were in sight.  They were quite a long way off when Lupe first spotted them.  Stand-offish, the caribou didn’t hang around to make her acquaintance.

After crossing the saddle, Lupe started up the first hill beyond it.  Upon reaching the top, several smaller hills were still ahead, strung out along the NNE ridge.  Although rather rocky in spots, this trek of minor ups and downs was easy and fun.

About to start up the first hill along the NNE ridge. Photo looks NE.
Heading for the next rise. Photo looks NNE.
Getting rockier, with more bumps along the way. Peak 1340M (L). Photo looks NE.

As Lupe drew near Peak 1340M at the far end of the hilly NNE ridge, the next phase of the journey was in view, another broad ridge running NW down to Pass 1190M.

Approaching Peak 1340M (Center) at the end of the NNE ridge. Photo looks NNE.
The NW ridge (foreground) running down to Pass 1190 (far L) from Peak 1340M (off screen to R). Photo looks NNW.

4:47 PM – The steep S face of Peak 1340M rose only 60 or 70 feet above the flat plain Lupe came to at its base.  Looking back to the SSE, Peak 1402M already looked far away, and the safety of the Dempster Highway was miles beyond it.  So far, the Carolina Dog hadn’t seen a single sign that any human had ever come this way before, a notion SPHP found both thrilling, yet vaguely ominous.

Glancing back. Peak 1402 M (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Surely someone has been this way before, Loopster.  These ridges we’ve been following lie right along the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories border.

Cool bit of trivia, SPHP.  Are we going to climb Peak 1340, or keep going down the NW ridge from here?

No reason to expend the energy, Loop.  Let’s head down the ridge.

About to head down the NW ridge to Pass 1190M (L). Photo looks NW.

Downhill all the way to Pass 1190M, the NW ridge was a fun romp along a series of mostly tundra-covered ramps and benches cutting diagonally N/S across the huge ridge.  These ramps and benches were separated by steeper drops of 15 to 40 feet which were nearly all rock.

Fortunately, none of these rocky slopes presented more than momentary difficulties.  A 20 mph wind sweeping up from out of the deep valley to the NE was easily minimized by staying a little SW of the crest.  Progress was rapid.  Soon Lupe was approaching Pass 1190M.

Approaching Pass 1190M (L). Photo looks NW.

After crossing the Pass 1190M saddle, Lupe started up the far side, soon coming to a rocky crest a few feet high, which she followed to a barren, flat region of grit, scree, and virtually no vegetation.  A crag of dark rock was ahead at the lower end of a long ridge sweeping down from the N.

Following the crest of the low ridge beyond Pass 1190M. Photo looks NW.

Quickly crossing the barren region, tundra reappeared as Lupe drew near the dark crag.  A band of steep rock visible along the upper E rim of the ridge sweeping down to the crag suggested that the terrain might be easier toward the W, which would have the added advantage of being less exposed to the NE wind.

Closing in on the crag (L). Photo looks N.

5:30 PM, SW of the dark crag – SPHP dumped the pack, then took a seat on a patch of tundra.  Still smoky, of course, but with only a light breeze here, conditions were quite pleasant.

SW of the crag. Photo looks NW.

How’s this, Loopster?   Ready to take a break?

About time, SPHP!  I haven’t seen a drop of water since we left the valley before reaching Peak 1402M, and we’ve still barely had anything to eat.  I’m famished!

I know.  Sorry about that, Loop.  I’ll remedy that situation pronto!

Ravenous, the American Dingo devoured an entire can of food, then lapped up as much water as SPHP was willing to spare.

So, what’s our situation, SPHP?  We’ve been making decent progress since leaving Peak 1402M, haven’t we?

Yes, we have, Looper.  Near as I can tell, our situation is excellent!  We’re at least 2/3 of the way to Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.), and still have the big majority of our supplies, including 3.5 out of 4 bottles of water.

And how is the iPhone battery holding out, SPHP?

85% charged, so we’re in good shape there, too, Loop.  The point to point GPS track system is working as well as I could possibly hope.

Lupe put her head down and closed her eyes.

Hope you don’t mind, if I take a little nap, SPHP.

Go right ahead, Loopster.  I want to take another look at the topo map, anyway.

While the Carolina Dog dozed, SPHP came to a most encouraging conclusion.

6:20 PM, SW of the dark crag – SPHP nudged Lupe, waking her up.

Time to keep going, already, SPHP?

Afraid so, Loopster, but I’ve got some great news for you.  I was wrong earlier.

Not as stunning a news flash as you may think, SPHP.  Happened before, plenty of times.

Yeah, well, this time the truth is much in our favor, Loop.  The pointy peak toward the W isn’t really Mount Sittichinli.  It’s Peak 1520M.  I’m virtually certain now that the peak toward the E is actually Sittichinli.  So that’s all the farther we need to go.  Since we won’t have to climb both, our chance of success is a lot better than I’d been thinking.

That is good news, SPHP!  You should fail in this fashion more often.

Continuing beyond the dark crag, due to large talus fields, Lupe again had to go farther NW than anticipated before turning N.  From here, a long slope led up to a high point toward the NNE.  Directly N beyond a rise, cliffs were visible along the S face of an even higher hill.

S facing cliffs (Center), NNE high point (R). Photo looks N.
Glancing back shortly after leaving the break area. Dark crag (far L), Peak 1340M (L), Peak 1402M (R). Photo looks SE.

Heading N, Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation before reaching the top of the rise.  To the NE, a wide pass was now visible between the NNE high point and the S facing cliffs.  Directly ahead, a shallow valley sloped SW, the same direction as a long 200 foot tall ridge of rock running down from the cliffs.

At the top of the rise. S facing cliffs (Center). Photo looks N.

Looking NW, a huge boulder was visible near the far side of the shallow valley.  Beyond it, there seemed to be a cleft in the rocky ridge running down from the cliffs.

We need to get above those cliffs, Loopster.  Head for that boulder!  Maybe we can scramble up onto the ridge at the cleft beyond it?

Heading for the huge boulder (Center). Peak 1520M (L). Photo looks NW.

Losing elevation on the way to the boulder, Lupe came to several water holes, and even a few tiny streams, where she drank her fill.  Turned out that there were actually two huge boulders separated by 100 feet.  After passing both of them, the Carolina Dog started up the ridge without bothering to go all the way to the cleft.

Getting a drink. Peak 1520M (L). Photo looks NW.
A closer look at the cliffs. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
By the first of the 2 huge boulders. Photo looks NW.

The talus was big, and the scramble got steep.  Considerable time ticked away before Lupe managed to reach an enormous slope of talus, scree, and tundra that awaited her on top.  Peak 1520M and Mount Sittichinli weren’t that far away now, yet details remained obscured by the ever present smoke.

At a safe spot near the top of the ridge. Photo looks N.
On the slope above the steep scramble. Peak 1520M (L), Mount Sittichinli (R). Photo looks NW.

The topo map showed a large ridge at 1360M+ running N from the area above the cliffs.  Turning NE, Lupe climbed steadily toward this ridge.  When she reached it, sure enough, a wide, rocky plain led N toward a high point ESE of Mount Sittichinli.

On the 1360M+ ridge. Mount Sittichinli (L), Hill 1520M (Center). Photo looks N.

Following the plain N, the terrain eventually steepened as Lupe began climbing toward a 100 to 150 foot high ridge of talus running SW/NE.  A bench of tundra below it swept up toward the NE, but was completely exposed to a 20 mph E wind.

As Lupe approached, SPHP kept an eye on a promising area near the SW end of the ridge.  When she got there, a region of soft, spongy tundra even sported some grass and small white flowers quivering in the breeze.  It was perfect!

9:25 PM – Not going to get any better than this, Loop!  I doubt we’ll find another spot to pitch your tiny house, if we go any higher.  We better stop here for the night.

Lupe had no objections.  Laying down on the tundra, she watched as SPHP struggled to erect her tiny house despite the wind.  Putting the rain cover on, the strongest gusts threatened to completely flatten the tiny house, so SPHP removed it again.  Without a cloud in the sky, and smoke billowing up from behind Mount Sittichinli, the rain flap hardly seemed necessary, anyway.

The American Dingo was as tired as SPHP was.  As soon as the tiny house was up, Lupe was eager to get inside and curl up in her red sleeping bag.

Base camp below the SW end of the talus ridge. Photo looks N.
Looking back down the 1360M+ ridge. Photo looks S.

9:38 PM, base camp – Weary, 1 KM SE of Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.), SPHP stood alone in the wind outside the tiny house pitched along the Yukon and Northwest Territories border, watching a pink sun sink into wildfire smoke streaming by the mountain.  It seemed incredible that Lupe was actually here in the Richardson Mountains, on the verge of finding out whether she could ever actually climb Sittichinli, or not.

A dream come true, almost!  Tomorrow would tell the tale.

Base camp SE of Mount Sittichinli (R), Richardson Mountains, Yukon/Northwest Territories border, Canada 8-9-23

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 332 – Black Elk Peak with Dave Covill, Max & Finn (5-29-24)

5-28-24, 5:31 PM – Out of the blue, a ding.

Loopster!  We’ve got a text message from Dave Covill!

Awesome!  What does it say, SPHP?

“I am approaching Rapid City right now with my grandsons.  We will be climbing Black Elk Peak tomorrow, and White Butte on Thursday.  Wonder if you would like to join us tomorrow around 9:00 AM at the Sylvan Lake trailhead?”

Oh, Happy Day!  Tell Dave we’ll be there, SPHP.

5-29-24, 8:54 AM, 62ºF – After driving around the little paved loop at the Sylvan Lake trailhead, SPHP parked the RAV4.  All smiles, Lupe leapt out.

Where’s Dave, SPHP?

Didn’t see his 4Runner.  They’ll be along shortly.  You can count on it, Loop.

5-29-24, 9:15 AM – Sure enough, they were.  It was great seeing Dave again, and fun getting introduced to his grandsons Max (10) and Finn (8).  After spending a few minutes getting organized, everyone hit Trail No. 9S to Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.).

At the start of Black Elk Peak Trail No. 9S. Photo looks NW.

Yes, everyone!  The trail was busy on this beautiful morning in late May.  Lots of people and dogs.  Lupe had plenty of opportunities to exchange sniffs, while Dave and SPHP chatted.  Black Elk Peak was going to be Max’s 27th state high point, and Finn’s 23rd.  Tomorrow they would be visiting White Butte, North Dakota’s highest mountain.  This summer Dave would be taking them to quite a few state high points out E, too.

Dave also mentioned Max and Finn’s sister, Eden (12), whom Lupe had met back in 2020.  Eden was going to be tackling several difficult state high points this summer, including Wyoming’s Gannet Peak (13,810 ft.), Montana’s Granite Peak (12,804 ft.), and Borah Peak (12,666 ft.) in Idaho.  She hoped to complete all 48 contiguous state high points in 2025.

Such is life, if Dave Covill is your grandpa!  At the moment, Max and Finn didn’t seem to fully appreciate the experience.  On this gorgeous day beneath clear blue skies, they were both soon complaining about the heat.  SPHP didn’t think it was all that hot yet, although, in her fur coat, the American Dingo may have agreed with Max and Finn.

After a steady climb to the junction with Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, where SPHP finally remembered to start a GPS track, it wasn’t much farther along No. 9S to a couple of viewpoints providing opportunities to pause for photos, and water for those in need of it.

At the first viewpoint with Max (L) and Finn (R). Photo looks NE.
Max (L) and Finn (R) with Black Elk Peak (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Shortly after passing the second viewpoint, Max stumbled and skinned his knees, adding to his misery.  Continuing on, SPHP tried to strike up a conversation with the boys to occupy their minds.

Did they have a favorite state high point?  No, not really.  Neither Max nor Finn showed much enthusiasm for any of the ones they’d been to so far, although Mount Sunflower (4,039 ft.) in Kansas, with all of 19 feet of prominence, did get honorable mention.

Hmm.  SPHP tried another approach.

What was the worst state high point Max and Finn had ever visited?  That struck a nerve!  The response was immediate and unanimous.  Bug Mountain was awful!  That was a state high point SPHP had never even heard of before.  Not too surprisingly, Bug Mountain turned out to be Minnesota’s Eagle Mountain (2,301 ft.).  Max and Finn had been there in June, evidently not the best time to go.

Dave leads Max (L) and Finn (R) along a flat stretch of Black Elk Peak Trail No. 9S. Photo looks NE.
A water break in the shade. Lupe (L), Dave (L of Center), Finn (Center), Max (R).

More than halfway to Black Elk Peak, a relatively flat stretch ended after crossing a stream near the junction with Lost Cabin Spur Trail No. 2B.  After passing some big granite formations, Trail No. 9S soon steepened.  Switchbacks helped keep the rate of climb to a moderate pace.

Two more junctions were ahead.  Although Trail No. 9S continued higher, the switchbacks ended before reaching the first one with Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4.  By the time the junction with Trail No. 9N was reached, all that remained was a short spur to the summit.

Max (R) leads the way going past the junction with Trail No. 4 to Little Devils Tower. Photo looks N.

Most of the spur was flat, with big views off to the S and W.  This led to a final steep climb on stairs among towering granite formations.  Max and Finn thought the metal stairway spiraling to the summit area was cool.  So was a mountain goat spotted shortly before reaching the stairs.

Heading for the granite formations near the top. Photo looks NE.
Finn on the metal stairway with Dave coming up behind. Photo looks WNW.

11:36 AM, 73ºF, Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) – A cool 15 mph breeze out of the W brought relief to Max, Finn, and Lupe as everyone approached the old fire lookout tower atop South Dakota’s highest mountain.

Nearly there! Max, Finn, and Dave on the final walkway to the lookout tower. Photo looks W.
Black Elk Peak’s formidable old fire tower (R). Photo looks N.

After a brief tour of the tower’s shady interior, Dave led Max and Finn out the basement exit, and around to the N side of the tower where the highest remaining natural point on the mountain is.  A quick scramble, and the boys were at the true summit.  Not to be outdone, Lupe decided to scramble up there, too.

With Max (L) and Finn (R) at Black Elk Peak’s true summit. Photo looks SSE.

No sooner had Max, Finn, and Lupe left the true summit, than someone else appeared intent upon visiting it, too.  Fortunately, the Carolina Dog didn’t interfere, despite keen interest, when SPHP begged her not to.

Finn watches as the mountain goat reappears.

Reappearing, the mountain goat calmly sauntered right on by, then sprang clear up to Black Elk Peak’s true summit in a few bounds, right where Max, Finn, and Lupe had been only moments ago.  SPHP was too slow to get a photo of the mountain goat exactly at the true summit, but managed to get a picture before the goat disappeared entirely.

The mountain goat saunters on by. Photo looks SW.
So, where’s the Black Elk? This ought to be called White Goat Peak! Photo looks SE.
That goat could have been lunch, if you weren’t such a party pooper, SPHP!

Lunch was actually held up on the tower’s observation deck, while many other people and dogs came and went.  Dave provided peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.  Lupe shared her traditional chocolate coconut bars with Max, Finn, and SPHP.  Water for all, of course.  SPHP offered apples and oranges, but they were a tough sell.

12:19 PM – Nearly 45 minutes after reaching the lookout tower, Dave and his grandsons were ready to move on.  Black Elk Peak had been a success!  Max had tagged his 27th state high point, and Finn his 23rd, records they would both improve upon at White Butte tomorrow.  Dave had his 11th ascent of Black Elk Peak, same as Lupe.

Before departing, the American Dingo did a little scrambling about on the rock formations S of the tower, enjoying terrific views of Black Elk Peak’s South Pinnacle (7,208 ft.), the Cathedral Spires (6,907 ft.), and Sylvan Hill (6,998 ft.).

Black Elk Peak’s S Pinnacle (R). Photo looks SE.
S Pinnacle (L), Cathedral Spires (R) beyond Lupe. Photo looks S.
Above the metal stairs. Sylvan Hill (Center) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

Just for fun and variety, on the way back to the Sylvan Lake trailhead, Dave wanted to show Max and Finn the Cathedral Spires region.  Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 goes right through that area.

Approaching the Cathedral Spires on Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4. Photo looks SSW.
Taking a short break among the spires. Photo looks SW.
Finn (L), Max (Center), and Lupe (R) having a bit of fun on the rocks. Photo looks S.

The last stop along Trail No. 4 was a short rest break at a bench donated by the Highpointers Foundation with a view of Black Elk Peak.

Dave (L), Finn (Center), and Max (R) on the Highpointers Club bench. Photo looks SW.

The spur to Little Devils Tower (6,981 ft.) itself was only 0.2 mile past the bench, but that fun little scramble would have to wait for another fine day.  Time was limited.  Dave already had plans to take the boys to Mount Rushmore (5,722 ft.) before returning to their hotel, where Max and Finn were eager to get back to the waterslide.

2:35 PM, 75ºF – The scenic loop along Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 ended right back at the Sylvan Lake trailhead.  It had been great seeing Dave again, and fun to meet Max and Finn.  The boys said good-bye to Lupe, and SPHP made sure to shake their hands, congratulating them on their first ascent of South Dakota’s Black Elk Peak.

2:55 PM – Alone again, Lupe stood on a dock next to Sylvan Lake.  Dave and his grandsons were already off to Mount Rushmore.

At Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NW.

So, what now, SPHP?

Almost June, Loopster.  Won’t be long before you’ll be setting off on your grand and glorious Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacations!

Oh, that sounds fabulous, SPHP!  I can hardly wait!

As events turned out, though, the American Dingo would be back in this same region once more before all those fabulous adventures transpired.

On Black Elk Peak with Max and Finn, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-29-24
Max & Finn’s GPS Track

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Max & Finn’s Scrollable GPS Track

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