Sailing the North Pacific Ocean to Grace Ridge, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (8-26-16)

Day 28 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Ugh, what is it Loop?  What now?  Lupe kept pawing at SPHP.  Oh, Loopster, what do you want?  Do you need out? … 7:00 AM! … Oh, my gosh, Loop!  Thanks for waking me up!  We’ve got to get going!

Lupe may have just saved the day.  SPHP meant to be up an hour ago.  The sun was already above the horizon.  Was there still time?  The day was perfect – clear and bright, as SPHP drove out to the Homer Spit.

Narrow Homer Spit protruding 6 miles into Kachemak Bay was awesome!  Hundreds of boats of all descriptions were moored in a gigantic pack on the protected NE side.  Sea gulls whirled overhead.  The one road along the spit was lined with restaurants, colorful tourist shops, and fishing and sight-seeing charter businesses.  People were up and about.  The whole place hummed with activity.

SPHP drove slowly, looking for Homer Ocean Charters.  There it was, on the SW side of the street!  SPHP parked and went in, while Lupe waited in the G6.  SPHP asked the lady at the counter about getting a water taxi ride over to Grace Ridge in Kachemak Bay State Park.

The good news was that dogs were welcome, and Lupe could come along for free!  The bad news was they had a 2 person minimum requirement.  Grace Ridge wasn’t that popular.  They had no one else scheduled to go to Grace Ridge today.  The lady suggested either a different destination, or trying Mako’s Water Taxi across the street.

Mako’s wasn’t right across the street, although it wasn’t far away.  It took SPHP a few minutes to spot it.  Once again, Lupe waited in the G6 while SPHP went in, a little fearful of another negative response.  Mako’s was busy.  It took a few minutes for SPHP’s turn to come.  Another woman behind a counter asked what SPHP wanted.

Water taxi service to Grace Ridge?  They had only one group scheduled for Grace Ridge today.  Three people were leaving right now.  Round trip price was $81 plus tax (total a bit over $91).  Pickup at 6 PM.  Lupe could come along, no extra charge.  Was now OK?

Perfect!  Now was absolutely perfect!  SPHP paid up, then ran out to move the G6 to free parking a couple blocks away next to the Homer Grill.  As SPHP and a somewhat alarmed Lupe started running back to the dock, Mako’s captain of the water taxi XtraTuff was already yelling at SPHP to hurry up.  When Mako says now, they mean NOW!  They were leaving!

Lupe on Homer Spit, moments before dashing off to catch a ride to Grace Ridge on Mako’s water taxi XtraTuff. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was afraid of the open metal grate dock.  She could see the water below her.  SPHP picked the surprised Carolina Dog up, and ran carrying her to the XtraTuff.  Moments later, she was aboard.  Immediately, the captain put the engine into reverse, and started easing the XtraTuff away from the dock.  Lupe and SPHP sat out in the open air on a bench in the front of the boat.

Sea dog, Loopster, aboard Mako’s water taxi XtraTuff, embarks from Homer Spit to sail across Kachemak Bay of the North Pacific Ocean on her way to Grace Ridge! Photo looks NW.

The XtraTuff cruised slowly, leaving little wake, while maneuvering around all the other boats on the way out of port.  The XtraTuff picked up a little speed once it was clear of the moored boats.  The captain steered SE toward the end of Homer Spit.

Lupe aboard the XtraTuff nearing the SE end of Homer Spit. Grace Ridge is in view above the 2nd support from the L. Photo looks S.
Rounding Homer Spit. Grace Ridge on the L. Photo looks S.

As the XtraTuff rounded Homer Spit and headed out across Kachemak Bay, the captain put her in high gear.  XtraTuff was fast!  The water taxi bounded across the waves.

Even though the sea wasn’t that rough, it was a bumpy ride.  Every now and then XtraTuff hit a wave with a jarring jolt.  The morning’s cool breeze became rather chilly, as the XtraTuff raced toward Eldred Passage.  SPHP hung onto Lupe, so there wouldn’t be an American Dingo overboard.

On Kachemak Bay heading for Eldred Passage. Photo looks SSW.

The captain asked if Lupe and SPHP would like to come in the enclosed cabin to get out of the cold wind.  Thanks, but hell no!  This was what Lupe had come for!  Here she was, bounding across Kachemak Bay of the North Pacific Ocean on her way to Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.) in Alaska with fabulous views everywhere.  This was exciting!  This was glorious!

Mountains along Kachemak Bay. Photo looks SE.
Approaching Yukon Island (Center) aboard the XtraTuff. Photo looks SSW.
OK, SPHP, we’re way out here now. So level with me, what the heck are you getting us into?
Grace Ridge from Kachemak Bay aboard the XtraTuff. Photo looks S.
In Eldred Passage on the way to Tutka Bay. Billy, one of the other passengers, later told SPHP that the sharp peak on the L is called Broken Knife, although SPHP doesn’t find that name on any map. Photo looks SSW.

The Grace Ridge Trail is 9 miles long.  Lupe was going to take the entire trail from one end to the other, making only a single traverse.  A water taxi would pick her up at the other end.  SPHP had a choice of where to get dropped off.  At the N end, closest to Kachemak Bay, is Kayak Beach.  The more remote S trailhead is along the NE shore of Tutka Bay.  The other 3 passengers were going to the S trailhead.  SPHP told the captain that was where Lupe wanted to be dropped off, too.

The XtraTuff raced over smoother waters through Eldred Passage.  Lupe passed by the entrance to Sadie Cove to the E.  XtraTuff sailed S around the NW end of Grace Ridge.  Entering Tutka Bay, XtraTuff was still making great time.  After a few miles, though, a dense fog bank was dead ahead right on the water.

The captain slowed XtraTuff to a crawl as Lupe entered the fog.  Everything disappeared from view.  The drop-off point wasn’t much farther.  XtraTuff crept cautiously forward, the captain straining to see something, anything.  After 5 minutes, a tiny beach appeared close by and directly ahead.  The captain had found it!  This tiny beach was the Grace Ridge S trailhead.

XtraTuff glided into shore.  Lupe, SPHP, and the other 3 passengers disembarked.  It only took a minute.  As the XtraTuff backed slowly away, everyone waved and thanked the captain, who waved back.  XtraTuff disappeared like a ghost.

XtraTuff about to disappear into the fog on Tutka Bay. Photo looks, uh, well, let’s see, NW maybe?

Wow!  Incredible!  If the 3 other passengers hadn’t been here, this place would have been just plain spooky.  A dark, dense, primeval forest extended right down to the tiny beach at water’s edge.  Leafy ferns, thick clumps of moss, ancient trees.  In the fog, it all looked unnervingly prehistoric.  It could have been 10,000 years ago, maybe 10,000,000 years ago.  What was out there?  Bears?  Dinosaurs!?  Lupe was lost in time.

Lupe lost in time, and looking a tad concerned about it, at the South Grace Ridge trailhead.

The other 3 passengers seemed to know where they were.  They set right off, following a good single track trail through the jungle.  The trail gained elevation slowly at first, but soon started switchbacking up a steep slope.  Lupe and SPHP followed the rest of the group, trailing a little behind.

So far, so good. No bears or dinosaurs yet.

The fog bank was dense, but wasn’t all that thick.  Soon Lupe was getting up high enough to where sunshine could be seen filtering through the trees.  The other 3 XtraTuff passengers set a fairly brisk pace.  Lupe and SPHP continued following along behind.

As Lupe climbed above the fog, sunlight began filtering through the trees.

The trail was good.  The switchbacks made the pace of elevation gain moderate.  Lupe was making great time and gaining elevation steadily.  The rest of the group was traveling almost too fast for SPHP’s taste.  What was the hurry?  Lupe had been dropped off at the S trailhead around 9 AM.  She didn’t need to be at the N trailhead until 6 PM, 9 hours later.  Since the trail was only 9 miles long, she only had to travel one mile per hour.

Soon everyone, except Lupe, was sweating.  The group stopped for a break.  SPHP stripped down to a T-shirt.  The woman of the group introduced herself as Sandy.  With her were Kevin and Billy.  They were all friendly, but spent much of their time deeply engaged in their own conversations.  They were friends who all live in Homer, as near as SPHP could gather.

Everyone set off again.  The rapid pace continued.  Lupe and SPHP lagged behind when Lupe found, not a bear or a dinosaur, but a squirrel in the forest.  A brief, enthusiastic barkfest ensued.  A bit later, Lupe and SPHP caught up with the group again.  As Lupe gained elevation, the primeval forest gave way to a more normal looking forest minus all the moss and ferns.  The normal forest then began to thin out, with some of the tall bushes common in Alaska starting to take over.

There were other people on the trail!  The XtraTuff group overtook and passed a family of four.  Soon after that, Lupe got her first look at a barren high point ahead.

As the Grace Ridge Trail neared the ridgeline, Lupe got her first look at a barren high point ahead. Photo looks NNW.

The trail reached the ridgeline.  The switchbacks were done.  From now on, the trail would stay up on the ridgeline following it all the way NNW to the summit.  Tall bushes and scattered trees dominated at first, but that didn’t last long.  The moderate pace of elevation gain enjoyed while on the switchbacks was over.  The trail climbed steeply, quickly bringing Lupe up above all the tall vegetation.

The American Dingo wasn’t anywhere near the summit of Grace Ridge yet, but truly awesome views were opening up all around.

Tutka Bay, which Lupe had come sailing over on the water taxi XtraTuff on her way to the Grace Ridge S trailhead. The broader expanse of Kachemak Bay is seen in the distance. Photo looks WNW.
Looking down at the S end of Sadie Cove, which borders Grace Ridge to the N and E. Photo looks SE.
Lupe on the Grace Ridge trail having reached the first high point along the ridgeline above all the trees and tall bushes. Photo looks SSE back down along Grace Ridge. Part of Tutka Bay is seen on the R.

Ahead, Grace Ridge was covered only with alpine tundra.  A marvelous ridgeline trek of sweeping unobstructed panoramas was in store for Lupe.  The Carolina Dog still had a long way to go to reach the summit.  It wasn’t even in view yet.

Ahead, a marvelous ridge hike over alpine tundra was in store for Lupe. The summit was still far off. It wasn’t even in view yet. Photo looks NNW.

From her vantage point high on Grace Ridge, Lupe was now able to see great distances over the tundra.  She saw something move far below.  Suddenly, Lupe took off straight down the steep W slope toward Tutka Bay.  SPHP called her, but she disappeared over the edge of an embankment.  She had lost hundreds of feet of elevation in hardly any time at all!  SPHP kept calling her.

After a few minutes, here came the American Dingo, charging straight back up almost as fast as she had gone down.  Lupe arrived with a long pink tongue dangling from her mouth, panting as though she might burst.  Did she ever look happy, though!  Wow, what would SPHP give to be in that kind of shape?  Simply amazing!  However, Lupe was now under orders not to go running off like that again.  SPHP never did see whatever it was she chased after.

Lupe and SPHP had fallen a little behind the XtraTuff group, but caught up with them again between two small rocky hills where they had stopped for a snack.  Up on the exposed ridgeline, an E breeze was blowing, but between these small hills the trail was protected from the wind.

While everyone was still eating, Lupe climbed up the small hill on the E side of the trail for a look around.  The views were getting better!  Lupe could even see Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.) faint and far away across Kachemak Bay and Cook Inlet to the NW.

Lupe up on the small rocky hill E of where the XtraTuff gang stopped for a rest break. A small part of Sadie Cove is seen on the lower L. The highest peak on the L may be Sadie Peak (4,320 ft.). Photo looks SE.
The views kept getting better as Lupe gained elevation. This photo looks S farther into Kachemak Bay State Park.
Lupe back down in the sheltered area near the trail. The rest of the XtraTuff gang has already finished their break and moved on. Iliamna Volcano is seen very faintly far across Cook Inlet to the L of Lupe. Photo looks NW.

When the rest of the XtraTuff group moved on, Lupe and SPHP stayed at the sheltered spot between the two hills.  Everyone else seemed to be in a hurry to get to the summit.  No reason for it that SPHP could see.  Lupe had plenty of time.

SPHP had asked how much more elevation was left to be gained.  Sandy, Keven and Billy had all insisted Lupe was only halfway up, but that seemed to be a gross underestimate of the progress already made.  Lupe must have gained at least 67% of the 3,136 feet required to reach the summit.  Probably more like 75% or even 80%.

After a nice break, Lupe and SPHP continued on.  The trail remained good.  The route was obvious, in any case.  The exposed ridge hike was a ton of fun.  Fantastic views everywhere, all the time.  After passing through a dip into a big saddle, there was one more fairly long steep climb.

Lupe near the top of the next big climb. Tutka Bay is seen below. The mountain Billy called Broken Knife is on the R. SPHP wonders if it isn’t really Red Mountain (3,524 ft.), though the name would make more sense for the more distant tan colored peak seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SW.

Grace Ridge’s easily recognizable big summit ridge came into view ahead.  There was no mistaking it.  The trail headed straight for it, passing over several prominent high points.  This part of the ridge was often narrow and steep.

Grace Ridge’s easily recognizable big summit ridge(R) came into view. To get there, Lupe followed the trail up and down over several high points. Along the way, the trail was often steep and the ridge quite narrow.
How’s this for a view, SPHP? I’m not even at the summit yet! Kachemak Bay from Grace Ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Beyond the last of the prominences, Lupe had an unobstructed view of the big summit ridge running SE/NW ahead.  Getting there was going to be a piece of cake.  The ridgeline became much wider here.  The trail would take Lupe up to the SE end of the summit ridge.  The true summit of Grace Ridge was a knob of rock relatively close to that end.  Lupe was almost there!

From the last prominence, Lupe had an unobstructed view of Grace Ridge’s big summit ridge ahead. The trail would take Lupe to the SE (R) end. From there it wasn’t far to the true summit, the small knob of rock seen a little to the L.
Lupe at the last of the prominences prior to going on to the summit ridge. Sadie Cove is seen below on the L. Photo looks SSE.
Looking SSE using the telephoto lens.

Fifteen minutes later, Lupe was up at the SE end of the summit ridge.  While it had been breezy down along the lower ridge, it was just plain windy up here.  The E wind was strong!  Lupe didn’t like the wind one bit, but tried to wait patiently for SPHP to finish loitering around.

Lupe found a survey benchmark(R) at the end of a long pipe at the SE end of Grace Ridge’s big summit ridge. The near ridge in view is on the other side of Sadie Cove. Part of Kachemak Bay is in the distance on the L. Photo looks NE.
Peaks of Kachemak Bay State Park. Photo looks NE using the telephoto lens.
Lupe enduring the wind at the SE end of the Grace Ridge summit ridge. Photo looks SW.
The survey benchmark at the SE end of the Grace Ridge summit ridge.
Looking SSE back the way Lupe came up. Sadie Cove is on the L. The survey benchmark is at the lower L corner. A windswept Carolina Dog is on the R.

The true summit of Grace Ridge was only 200 yards away.  Sandy, Kevin and Billy were all over there, sitting below the SW side of the summit sheltered from the wind.  Lupe was going to get a lot more fresh air on her way over there.

The true summit of Grace Ridge is seen only 200 yards away to the NW. Sandy, Kevin and Billy were already over there taking shelter from the wind. Photo looks NW.

Of course, before rejoining the rest of the XtraTuff gang, Lupe had to climb up on top of the true summit to claim her windy Grace Ridge peakbagging success!

Lupe reaches the true summit of Grace Ridge in Alaska’s remote Kachemak Bay State Park! Photo looks NW.
Skinny Homer Spit is seen extending 6 miles into Kachemak Bay. Photo looks NNW from the true summit of Grace Ridge.
Mighty Loopster astride the true summit of Grace Ridge. Photo looks NW.

Kachemak Bay from the summit of Grace Ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Homer Spit again, this time using the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.
Looking SSE. Lupe’s route up was along the barren hilly ridgeline seen on the R.

Lupe was glad to get down off the true summit to take refuge from the wind on the SW side of the big rock outcropping.  Sandy, Kevin and Billy were still relaxing and finishing up lunch there for a little while longer.  They said it was noon, which meant it had taken Lupe only 3 hours to get here from the S Grace Ridge trailhead.  Lupe had 6 whole hours until she needed to be down at the N trailhead for the scheduled water taxi pickup at Kayak Beach.

Before long, the rest of the XtraTuff gang moved on.  Lupe and SPHP stayed alone, enjoying the solitude and the magnificent scenery.  The family of 4 that had been passed on the way up came by, continuing farther NW along the summit ridge.  For more than half an hour, Lupe and SPHP did not stir from the sheltered spot below the summit.  What a magnificent place!  Eventually, though, the time came to start exploring the big summit ridge.

The view to the SW from the sheltered spot where Lupe relaxed out of the wind just below the summit. Tutka Bay is down below.

First, Lupe returned to the SE end of the summit ridge near the survey benchmark.  The views of the mountains to the S were best from this end of the ridge.  Lupe and SPHP wanted to see them from this vantage point one more time before leaving.

Looking SE using the telephoto lens.
Worth a second look, aye?
Looking SSE.
Sadie Cove and Sadie Peak(L). Photo looks SE.
Lupe rests on the tundra near the SE end of Grace Ridge’s big summit ridge. The true summit is on the R. Tutka Bay is on the L. Photo looks WNW.

Bidding farewell to the S mountain views, Lupe headed NW, passing by the true summit for the final time.

Grace Ridge’s big summit ridge is about 0.25 mile long.  Unlike the lower SSE ridge Lupe followed to get here, which was narrow and steep in some places, the big summit ridge is broad and flat to gently rolling.  No clear trail exists most of the way, but the general route is totally obvious.  If you still don’t get it, NW of the true summit the route is marked by a series of big cairns.

Tutka Bay. A fog bank hangs over adjoining Kachemak Bay. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe NW of the true summit, seen on the L. Of course, American Dingoes can find their way across this broad, gentle ridge with their eyes closed. Huge cairns showed SPHP the way. Photo looks SSE.

Going NW along the big ridge, Lupe was heading away from the mountains and toward the ocean.  There was one impressive mountain view, however, which she was going toward.  Faint and far away, beyond Kachemak Bay and Cook Inlet, was Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.).

Naturally, faint and far away aren’t normally associated with impressive.  A look through the camera’s telephoto lens told a different story.

Iliamna Volcano from Grace Ridge. Bring those binoculars, if you want to see it looking like this instead of simply faint and far away. Photo looks NW.

A 0.25 mile long summit ridge is a pretty big summit, but even at a very leisurely pace with stops to sniff and admire the views, it took Lupe only half an hour to reach the NW end where the best ocean views were.

Lupe near the NW end of the big summit ridge. Photo looks back to the SSE. The true summit is seen on the L.
At the NW end. Photo looks WNW.
Anchor Point along Cook Inlet is in view here beyond Kachemak Bay. Photo looks NW.
Iliamna Volcano towers above low clouds covering Cook Inlet. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
Anchor Point from the NW end of the Grace Ridge summit ridge. And, hey, isn’t that the peakbagging Carolina Dog from the Black Hills of South Dakota up there?! Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP had first reached the SE end of the Grace Ridge summit ridge an hour and forty minutes ago.  If the wind hadn’t been so strong, Lupe would have remained at least another hour.  However, as wonderful as the views were, the wind was wearing enough to make starting down sound like a good idea.

A final look back at the true summit of Grace Ridge(R) before starting down. Sadie Peak is seen R of Center. Photo looks ESE.
Homer and the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay. Lupe’s route down off Grace Ridge started toward the R in the direction of the cairn. Photo looks N.

The wind soon abated as Lupe lost elevation, a welcome development as far as she was concerned.  Going down the NW end of Grace Ridge was a lot different from coming up the SE end.  Lupe was facing views of the ocean.  The trail going down didn’t follow any distinct ridgeline, but wound around in open country.

Lupe in open country on her way down. Photo looks S.
On the trail down. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe had already lost a lot of elevation when she reached some flat ground.  Ahead was a small rise the trail was about to go over.  People were down here, and up on the rise, too.

Kevin from the XtraTuff group was in the flat area picking blueberries using a blueberry rake, a simple contraption SPHP had never seen before.  A woman named Poppy was picking blueberries, too.  Sandy and Billy were up ahead on the rise talking to still more people.

It was sunny and comfortably warm out.  The air was still.  Lupe had hours to reach Kayak Beach.  Picking blueberries sounded like a good idea.  The others were saving blueberries in plastic bags, but SPHP sat on the ground picking and eating them on the spot.  Lupe dozed contentedly in the shade of an evergreen tree.

Lupe’s nap and SPHP’s blueberry feast went on for 30 or 40 minutes.  Then almost everyone decided it was time to mosey on down the trail to the Kayak Beach pickup point.  Lupe and SPHP went with, tagging along at the end of the group.  Only Kevin and Poppy remained, picking blueberries for a while longer.

Looking back at Grace Ridge from the small rise. The trail Lupe had come down wound its way around in the territory seen on the L. Part of the trail is in view below, L of Center. The flat land where all the blueberry picking went on was down there next to the trail. Photo looks SE.
Hesketh Island(L) and Yukon Island(R) from the small rise. Anchor Point is in the distance on the far R. Photo looks NW.

As Lupe lost more elevation, the trail entered steeper terrain.  Tall bushes and trees hid the views.  The forest was full of Devil’s club, a tall plant with very large leaves, a thick and thorny stem, all crowned by numerous clusters of bright red berries.  A sort of giant blueberry plant grew 5 or 6 feet high here, too.

The trail was much wetter and muddier down here than anywhere else.  A couple of times, people fell on the slick mud.  Fortunately, no one sustained any injury beyond wounded pride.

Lupe investigates a small stream along the trail.
Devil’s club berries.

This larger group Lupe and SPHP were now part of traveled very slowly down the steeper part of the trail.  The pace finally picked up lower down, when the slope of the incline finally decreased.  Near the coast, the trees of the forest took over.  There were fewer bushes and tall plants.

Lupe reached Kayak Beach about 5:15 PM.  Kayak Beach proved to be much larger than the tiny beach at the S trailhead.  Still more people were on the beach, and several dogs, too.  Even though pickup time wasn’t supposed to be until 6:00 PM, Mako already had two water taxis here, ready and waiting.

Surprisingly, Lupe wasn’t interested in the other dogs.  Something else had caught her attention!  In the ocean, right next to the shore, was something very odd.  Lupe had never seen anything like it before!  A round translucent creature marked with an emblem of the sun moved with each wave.  Lupe was fascinated, but regarded the strange creature with deep suspicion.

Lupe discovered a jellyfish in the ocean at water’s edge on Kayak beach.
Loopster had never seen a jellyfish before. She regarded it with both fascination and suspicion, following it toward the sea when it retreated with the waves, and leaping back when the jellyfish surged forward, seemingly on the attack!
The jellyfish was a most puzzling creature to the Carolina Dog. Lupe spent a long time keeping a watchful eye on it. Who knew jellyfish could be so entertaining?
Lupe maintains her jellyfish vigil (it’s barely visible right in front of her nose) as one of the water taxis moves in to shore to begin boarding. Iliamna Volcano is seen faintly far beyond Eldred Passage(Center). Yukon Island is on the L. Photo looks NW.
Iliamna Volcano from Kayak Beach. Yukon Island on the L. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

There was quite a large group of people milling around on the beach.  In addition to the two Mako water taxis, there was a third water taxi from another company waiting to return passengers to Homer Spit.

Apparently, there is a regulation prohibiting the water taxis from carrying more than 6 passengers at a time.  Everyone seemed worried about securing a spot on the water taxis.  Everyone except Lupe and SPHP, and two women who were staying to camp out at Kayak Beach.

Yes!  Mako had 13 passengers waiting for pickup, but could only take 12.  The water taxis filled up.  Lupe and SPHP were left standing on the beach.  Totally awesome!  Mako promised another water taxi was on the way.  It would be here in 15 minutes.  Whatever.  As long as it came eventually, Lupe and SPHP were happy.

The two women who were going to camp out here had two large dogs with them.  The biggest one, Ruby, acted so aggressively toward Lupe, that Ruby got put on a leash.  The women invited SPHP to join them for a cup of wine.  Who was SPHP to disappoint them?  While Lupe and the friendly dog played and explored, SPHP and the two women sat watching the ocean, chatting, and sipping wine.

Fifteen minutes was a lousy estimate.  The water taxi, Orca, didn’t show up until 7:00 PM, which was totally cool as far as Lupe and SPHP were concerned.   SPHP bid farewell to the two women, thanking them for the wine.  Lupe and SPHP boarded the Orca, and it pulled away from shore.

Mako’s water taxi, Orca, arrives at 7:00 PM to pick up Lupe and SPHP. Ruby, who was back off leash by now, is the dark brown dog on the R. The light brown dog is the friendly one that played with Lupe. The black dog came with the Orca. Yukon Island in the background. Photo looks NW.

A guy came running out of the woods from the direction of the trail.  Wait!!!  Come back!!!  His group had a 7:00 PM scheduled pickup with Mako.  Two more were still coming.  They would be here shortly.

Mako was confused.  The guy’s story didn’t seem to add up at first.  The confusion arose, because, just like the original XtraTuff group of 3, this group of 3 also had a Kevin and a Sandy.  For a few minutes, Mako thought they had already done their duty and picked up everyone they needed to.  However, instead of a Billy, this group had a Mark.

It all got straightened out over the radio.  Back to shore.  The two remaining members of the new Kevin, Sandy, and Mark group appeared.  Everyone boarded.  Out to sea again.  Soon the Orca was dashing over a glassy sea through Eldred Passage.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the ride seated out front in the open air again.

Aboard the Orca on Kachemak Bay.

Turned out the Orca wasn’t going directly back to the Homer Spit.  A package needed to be delivered to China Cove farther N on the E side of Kachemak Bay.  Fantastic!  A free extra long water taxi ride on a gorgeous evening!  The farther away China Cove was, the better.

The side trip to China Cove added an extra half hour.  Flocks of seagulls raced the Orca.  Lupe saw boats and ships on Kachemak Bay.  Beauty, light, and the cool, clean Alaskan air Orca rushed through were everywhere.  Life couldn’t be better!

It had to end.  The Orca returned to Homer Spit.

Kachemak Bay from the Orca near Homer Spit. Photo looks E.
Lupe aboard the Orca as it pulls into port at Homer Spit.
Her Kachemak Bay of the North Pacific Ocean and Grace Ridge adventure over, Lupe returned to land on Homer Spit.

What a day!  What an adventure!  Lupe and SPHP were famished.  Back in the G6, SPHP drove to Safeway in Homer and bought a whole roasted chicken.  Then it was back to a park on the SW side of Homer Spit.  Lupe and SPHP dined in the G6 watching gentle waves roll into shore.

The tide was coming in.  Across Kachemak Bay, there was Grace Ridge in the evening light.  Full of chicken, Lupe and SPHP left the G6 and strolled down to the ocean shore.  A woman from Homer was gathering pretty or unusual rocks she would use to line the sides of her driveway.  Most everyone else had gone home.

Grace Ridge(L) from Homer Spit. Photo looks SSW.
Grace Ridge using the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

Well, Looper, you did save the day!  I’m sure glad you woke me up in the nick of time when you did.  There aren’t many days like this one in a lifetime.  We are so lucky we didn’t miss it!

And so it ended, with Lupe standing at the edge of the North Pacific Ocean on Homer Spit, Grace Ridge in view, beneath the fading glory of a rare epic day.

Links:

Next Adventure                          Prior Adventure

Mako’s Water Taxi

Grace Ridge Trail Fact Sheet & Map

Kachemak Bay State Park

Kachemak Bay State Park & Wilderness Brochure and Map

On the Alpine Ridge Trail to see the Grewingk Glacier, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (8-31-18)

Poot Peak, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (9-1-18)

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 194 – Summit Peak & Bishop Mountain (3-5-17)

Of course!  But, really?  Do you mean it?  You’re not just pulling my curly Dingo tail?  Lupe was incredulous.  SPHP had just asked if she wanted to go up into the mountains?  Half the day was almost shot already.  Until a moment ago, SPHP hadn’t shown the least inclination to go anywhere.  Loop was mentally prepared for another idle day lounging about the house.

SPHP sprang into action.  To the Carolina Dog’s utter amazement and joy, suddenly preparations were underway!  The reason?  A neighbor had casually mentioned winds gusting to 70 mph tomorrow.  Lupe was supposed to go on one of her Black Hills expeditions tomorrow, not today, but SPHP had quickly checked the forecast.  It said more like 30 mph winds with occasional stronger gusts.  Not nearly as dramatic, but combined with temperatures in the low 40’s, no picnic either.

Today was an unseasonably warm 65°F with a gentle breeze.  Given the circumstances, waiting until tomorrow was nuts.  As late as it was, there wasn’t time to go clear down to the southern Black Hills to continue Lupe’s adventures there.  That would have to wait for another day.  However, there was still time for some kind of an expedition closer to home.

Ever ready for adventure, Lupe was soon leaping out of the G6.  She found herself at the intersection of Old Hill City Road and USFS Road No. 357 (1:06 PM, 57°F).

Lupe near the start of USFS Road No. 357 about 2 miles ESE of Hill City. Photo looks SW.

Lupe began by heading SW on No. 357.  A big pasture, part of a private ranch, was right next to the road.  Lupe’s first peakbagging objective was all on Black Hills National Forest land, however, so she wouldn’t have any access issues.  Summit Peak (5,655 ft.) was less than a mile from the G6.  Soon Lupe was leaving the road to start her climb.

In an open forest thinned by logging operations, Lupe came to a spiffy rock outcropping before she had even gained much elevation.  She hopped up on the rocks and struck a happy American Dingo explorer pose.  Who knew what the top of Summit Peak might be like?  From a distance, the mountain was heavily forested.  There might not be anything to look at up there except trees.  At least this rock formation looked good in a photo.

Lupe astride the spiffy rock outcropping she reached before she’d even gained much elevation on her way up Summit Peak. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe continued upward.  She quickly came to another, higher road.  This grassy road was apparently seldom used.  Instead of charging right up the N slope of Summit Peak, Lupe followed the grassy road.  She gained elevation gradually as the road went SW along the NW flank of the mountain.

When the grassy road seemed to be getting close to topping out, Lupe left it to start climbing directly up a heavily forested hillside.  She arrived up on a saddle between rock formations.  A rusty barbed wire fence ran along the ridgeline, a hazard for Lupe and an unwelcome sight.  SPHP made certain she stayed away from it.

The topo map showed the true summit of Summit Peak at the SW end of the mountain, but Lupe was much closer to the NE end now.  Another high point was supposed to be to the NE, so Lupe explored that direction first.  The rock formation on the ridgeline was much larger and more rugged than it initially appeared.  Before long, Lupe was forced to make a choice on how best to try to reach the NE end of the mountain.

Lupe got off the rocks to continue NE along the SE side of the formation.  She soon found herself below a solid wall of rock, but had no problem continuing NE along its base.  She was gaining elevation along the way, but so was the wall of rock.  After going hundreds of feet, it became clear that she was nearing the far NE end of the ridge.

Fortunately, gaps in the rock wall provided the Carolina Dog a relatively easy way to scramble to the top.

Lupe up on the rocks at the far NE end of Summit Peak. Photo looks NE.

The rocks at the very NE end weren’t the absolute highest.  A couple of massive rocks only 20 or 30 feet farther SW were clearly the high point.  These rocks were too large for Lupe to get up on them from this direction.

The highest rocks, one of which is seen on the L, were a short distance from the NE end of Summit Peak. Lupe couldn’t climb them from this direction. Photo looks SW.
Lupe had this great view of Ford Mountain from the far NE end of Summit Peak. Photo looks NW with some help from the telephoto lens.

The only hope for Lupe to climb onto the highest rocks was if there was a route up from the SW.  To find out, she went down a narrow gap right next to them.  Small bushes grew thickly in the gap, but Lupe had no problem getting through.

Lupe comes down the narrow gap next to the summit rocks on her way to look for a way up from the SW. Photo looks NE.

The wall of rock was too high for Lupe to climb by herself, but she found a spot where it was possible for SPHP to scramble up.  Lupe waited anxiously below while SPHP scouted around above.  She didn’t like being left behind, especially when SPHP disappeared from view.

Yes, there was a way up to the highest rocks along the SE side of the rock formation!  SPHP came back to tell Lupe the good news.  She was mostly relieved that she hadn’t been abandoned.  SPHP scrambled down, then lifted Lupe up, giving her the boost she needed to get on the rock wall.  SPHP then climbed back up to join her.

The route to the top was short.  To get up on the very highest rocks Lupe needed another boost, but with SPHP’s help she made it!  A look back to the SW convinced SPHP that Lupe was now on the true summit of Summit Peak (5,655 ft.).  The topo map showing the true summit at the opposite SW end of the mountain was wrong.  SPHP would have bet money on it!

With a couple of boosts from SPHP along the way, Lupe sits at the true summit of Summit Peak! Some of the rocks she had been on earlier at the far NW end of the ridge are seen not very far away on the L. They weren’t much lower, only a few feet. Photo looks NE.
Loopster on Summit Peak with Five Points (6,221 ft.) in view in the distance on the L. Photo looks NNE.
Lupe’s no longer at the very summit here, but close to it on rocks only a little to the SW. Photo looks SW along the ridgeline. The rounded, forested hill on the R is the SW end of Summit Peak. The topo map showed the true summit over there, but SPHP would have bet money Lupe had found the true summit here at the NE end of the mountain no matter what the map said. Photo looks SW.

SPHP was surprised at the size and length of the rock formations on Summit Peak.  Lupe had some terrific views!  When she was ready to get down, SPHP helped her off the true summit.  While she explored among rocks nearly as high nearby, SPHP took pictures.

This massive granite formation is shown as Elkhorn Mountain on the topo map. It is part of a long rise toward the summit of Black Elk Peak. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
Sweet Loop checking out the views. The summit rock, which she had just been on, is right behind her. Photo looks NE.
Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), the highest mountain in South Dakota, towers over the Palmer Gulch KOA, seen at lower L. Photo looks S.
Black Elk Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.
Saint Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.) is the high point on the horizon slightly to the R of Lupe.  Photo looks SSW.
Bishop Mountain (5,706 ft.) (R of Center) would be Lupe’s next peakbagging objective when she finished exploring Summit Peak. Photo looks NW.

After enjoying the impressive views from the summit area, Lupe and SPHP left by the same route Lupe had come up.  Loop was willing to leap off the rock wall, but SPHP helped the Carolina Dog so she wouldn’t risk joint damage.

Lupe headed SW exploring the NW side of the rock wall along the ridgeline.  The rocks were even more impressive over here than on the SE side she had investigated earlier.

Loop on her way down on the NW side of the rock wall. Photo looks NE.
The amount of rock on Summit Peak was totally unexpected! Photo looks S.
Working along the base of the rock wall was sometimes slow work due to the number of boulders scattered around. Photo looks E.

Once beyond the long rock wall, Lupe continued SW along the ridgeline.  SPHP was convinced she had already been to the true summit, but she was going to see what the official summit according to the topo map was like.  Was there any chance it actually was higher?

Lupe had to dodge the rusty barbed wire fence a couple of times again.  SPHP wondered for the 10 millionth time, why it was so common to find barbed wire fences so incredibly high up on rugged mountains and ridges in the Black Hills?  These hazardous fences were useless and silly.  They always had been.  No cow or horse would ever attempt this kind of terrain of its own free will!

As Lupe continued SW, she came to more high points.  Near the first big one was a very odd rock formation.  The rocks formed a large square surrounding a depression full of boulders, branches and pine needles.  Strange!  SPHP decided to name this formation Box O’ Rocks.

Lupe at the next significant high point SW along the ridge. SPHP was certain this wasn’t as high as where she’d been earlier. The Box O’ Rocks formation was only a little farther SW from here. Photo looks W.
Looper sits at the NE end of Box O’ Rocks. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe had lost quite a bit of elevation coming down from the NE, but she eventually regained a fair amount of it.  After a fairly big climb, she arrived at a high point SPHP suspected might be the location of the (erroneous) true summit shown on the topo map.

Trees made it hard to see much in most directions, but the nice flat rock at the top did offer lovely, clear views to the N and NW.  Lupe had a great look at both Bishop and Ford mountains, her next peakbagging objectives.

Lupe sits on the flat rock that SPHP suspected might be the (erroneous) true summit near the SW end of Summit Peak indicated on the topo map. She had a great view of Bishop Mountain (L) and Ford Mountain (R), both of which she still hoped to climb on Expedition No. 194. Photo looks NW.
Lupe still at what SPHP suspected might be the SW summit. Although she had a great view of Bishop and Ford Mountains and a few other peaks from here, this view was more typical of what she could see in most directions. Photo looks WSW.
Years ago, Storm Hill was a beautiful green, but a forest fire changed that. Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.
Five Points (6,221 ft.) (Center) and the mountain Lupe knows as New Year’s Eve Peak (6,046 ft.) (on the horizon on the R). Humbolt Mountain (5,722 ft.) is the lower peak in front of and a bit L of Five Points. Photo looks N.

Lupe had to retreat off this possible SW summit going back down toward the NE.  She then circled around the SE side of the ridgeline to continue SW.  She went some distance before finding an easy way over to the NW side of the ridge.  SPHP was again surprised at the size of some of the rock formations that continued SW from here.

When Lupe made it over to the NW side of the ridge, she started working her way down the mountain.  Looking back up, SPHP began to have doubts if Lupe had actually been to the true SW high point.  Maybe one of those towering rocks was actually it?

Lupe below some of the towering rocks of the SW end of the ridge. She’s already starting down the mountain. Photo looks S.

Lupe continued on down for 10 minutes while SPHP dithered.  Finally, SPHP decided Lupe had better go back up to check it out.  It’s a good thing American Dingoes have a lot of patience and a forgiving nature.  Lupe didn’t complain in the least about having to return to the ridge.  She didn’t bite SPHP even once.

SPHP wasn’t even certain Lupe could make it to the top of the towering rocks, but investigation revealed a surprisingly easy route.  Lupe was soon perched at the highest point.  She was maybe a couple hundred yards SW of the last high point she’d been at.  SPHP could sort of see the other high point between the trees, but not clearly.  This final spot seemed to be about as high.

From here, Lupe had some fabulous views.  She could also clearly see there weren’t any higher points farther SW along the ridge.

The wide open views from the final SW high point Lupe reached along the ridge were fabulous! Photo looks N.
So, satisfied yet, SPHP? Is this the true summit? … Yes, my curiosity is satisfied now Loop! Thank you! This might or might not be higher than the last spot you went to, but I still believe the true summit was way back near the NE end of the mountain. Fantastic views here, though, aye?
Lupe could see clearly there weren’t any higher points along the ridge farther SW than where she was now. Photo looks SW.

SPHP was now completely satisfied that Lupe had been to every possible location of the true summit on Summit Peak.  So much time had been spent on the mountain, it was doubtful Lupe had time to climb any others.  Maybe she could still try to make it up Bishop Mountain (5,706 ft.)?

Lupe went back down to the NW side of the ridge.  She resumed following the ridgeline SW, but was losing elevation steadily.  Large rock formations continued much farther than SPHP expected, but there was no need to climb any of these rocks.  None were as high as where Lupe had already been.  When she finally reached the end of the rock formations, Lupe turned NW descending as quickly as possible.

Bishop Mountain was less than 2 miles NW, but Lupe first had to detour nearly a mile to the WSW to get around private property.  She was now making rapid progress, but SPHP had made her dilly-dally a long time up on Summit Peak.  By the time she was approaching Bishop Mountain, it was clear she wouldn’t have any time to waste here.

Approaching Bishop Mountain from the S.

Lupe started up Bishop Mountain.  At first her course aimed between two high points midway up, but she eventually drifted over to the E to reach the S ridgeline.  As soon as she was on the ridge, she came to big rock formations.  Due to the forest, good viewpoints were rare, but Lupe came to a few along the way.

One of the good viewpoints Lupe came to climbing the S ridge of Bishop Mountain. Black Elk Peak is in the distance. Photo looks SSE.

The higher Lupe went, the more rock formations she encountered.  However, they did not form continuous walls like on Summit Peak.  Lupe could wind around among them easily enough while working her way higher.  Loopster was quite high on the mountain, but not at the summit yet, when she saw the golden glow in the W.  The sun had already set.

Sunset from Bishop Mountain. Good chance this photo looks W.

The sky had been almost totally overcast for a while.  Lupe hadn’t seen sunshine since leaving Summit Peak.  However, there must have been a small break in the clouds.  Off to the S, suddenly Elkhorn Mountain and Black Elk Peak were aglow in the final rays of sunlight on those higher peaks.

Elkhorn Mountain glows in the last rays before sunset. Photo looks SE using the telephoto lens.
Black Elk Peak. Photo looks SSE.

With light fading fast, Lupe pressed on looking for the true summit of Bishop Mountain.  The top of the mountain was a fairly big area dotted with large rock outcroppings.  The farther N Lupe went, the higher the rock formations were.  She’d made it quite a long way N when one rock formation appeared higher than all the others so far.

Looper scrambled to the top.

Lupe scrambled to the top of this rock formation, which SPHP briefly thought might be the true summit of Bishop Mountain. Photo looks SE.
Hwy 16 S of Hill City is seen below from Bishop Mountain. Photo looks SW.

The true summit of Bishop Mountain proved to be a less dramatic place.  Only a little farther, way at the N end of the mountain, Lupe came to a modestly sloping area with a couple of minor high points so nearly equal in elevation that either might have been the true summit.  She also discovered 3 cement pillars.  The pillars were likely part of the foundation of some former structure, though they looked almost new.

It was already so dark out when Lupe arrived, even the highly light sensitive camera lens had a hard time producing a clear image.

Lupe at the first candidate for true summit of Bishop Mountain. Photo looks S.
Loop on the tallest cement pillar. They all looked new, but SPHP believed they were supports for some former structure. The top of Ford Mountain can be seen between the trees L of Lupe. Photo looks NE.
Lupe on the sloping rock that was the 2nd candidate for true summit of Bishop Mountain. Photo looks N.
Sheesh! Trying to make me leap out of my fur? Lemme know before you do that! … Sorry Looper, just seeing if things look any better using the flash.
Part of the Bishop Mountain summit area. Photo looks NNW.

With darkness growing by the minute, it was time to get off the mountain.  The G6 was less than 1.5 miles to the E, so the return trip seemed like an easy, done deal.  SPHP became careless about the route Lupe would take back.  Down, down the mountain she went, but SPHP missed the saddle between the two high points to the S.

Suddenly there were houses ahead.  Somehow Lupe was on private property instead of USFS land.  What had happened?  The realization grew that SPHP had taken Lupe in totally the wrong direction.  The best guess was that she was now somewhere SW of Bishop Mountain.  In the dark with an overcast sky, it was hard to know exactly where she might be, or what direction she was headed.

So the wandering began.  Back up away from the homes, then up and down over ridge after ridge.  Lupe came to lots of little dirt roads in the forest, but none had any signage.  In the darkness, the mountains loomed much higher than seemed possible.  How much elevation had Lupe lost?  Nothing was familiar.  Peachy.

Lupe was still having fun!  She loved prowling around in the night.  Fortunately she stuck close to SPHP.  On and on.  SPHP thought Lupe was now heading mostly N or E, but wasn’t sure.

Finally, the Carolina Dog came to a big power line up on a hill.  The USFS map showed a power line going NE/SW about a mile E of Hill City.  A few stars were now out, so it was possible to be more certain which way Lupe was going.  She followed the power line NE.  At least it went straight, although the route was still up and down.

Lupe eventually left the rugged power line route.  She wound up in Hill City!  She had been considerably farther S than SPHP believed.  The poor American Dingo had to traipse the entire boring length of the town to get back to Old Hill City Road.  Sadly, it was Sunday, so the Alpine Inn was closed.  If it had been open, Lupe have been delighted to stop in for a delicious filet Mignon steak.

Still two miles to the G6!  Funny how things work out.  Clouds dissipated from the night sky.  Stars and a half moon lit the way through the quiet countryside.  Lupe trotted along alertly checking fields for signs of deer or wild animals.  Truth was, the happy Carolina Dog may have been a little sad when her beautiful moonlit stroll and Expedition No. 194 came to an end.  (9:21 PM, 37°F)

Lupe scrambled to the top of this rock formation, which SPHP briefly thought might be the true summit of Bishop Mountain. Photo looks SE.

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