The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Indian Peak, Snake River Range, Wyoming (6-26-22)

Day 11 of Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

9:02 AM, upper Dog Creek valley, Snake River Range – Another gorgeous morning! The American Dingo was off to kind of a late start after her big success getting to Observation Peak (9,960 ft.) yesterday. For the second day in a row, Lupe trotted across the big meadow in the upper Dog Creek valley, crossing small streams before reaching Trail No. 009.

Entering the big meadow in the **upper Dog Creek valley**. **HP9582** (R). Photo looks W.

Following the trail to where it climbed NW up a bare slope, this time when it turned SW heading into a forest full of snow, Loop abandoned the trail to climb due S along the ridgeline, enjoying a beautiful view of the Dog Creek valley and Wolf Mountain (9,483 ft.) along the way.

**Dog Creek valley** (Center), **Wolf Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

As Lupe continued S, the rate of climb soon diminished. Up here, the ridge was forested, with big snow drifts slowly melting away in the shade. Turning SW, Lupe came to a snow-free clearing. Blanketed in snow, a mountain and part of an enormous ridge N of it were in view.

**Indian Peak** (L) from the clearing. Photo looks SSW.

There it is, Loopster! Indian Peak (9,683ft.)!

I know! We saw it lots of times yesterday, remember, SPHP? Not very far away, is it? We’re almost there already!

Yup! Maybe 0.5 mile as the crow flies. Looks like we could almost head straight for it, and climb right on up. Might be easier, though, if we can get back up onto the ridge N of it again.

Heading W toward the enormous ridge, Loopster re-entered the forest. Climbing a hill, she trotted over snow drifts hidden among the trees.

Heading W through the forest. Photo looks W.

This little hill wasn’t much of a climb. The terrain soon leveled out again. The Carolina Dog came to a second snow-free clearing providing an even better look at Indian Peak and the ridge N of it.

**Indian Peak** (L) and its **N ridge** (Center & R) from the second clearing. Photo looks SW.

The scene was as snowy as ever, the terrain steep enough to discourage SPHP from encouraging a direct assault.

Keep going W, Looper! Let’s see how things look over that way.

Crossing the second clearing, Lupe reached and passed through another band of trees, quickly emerging at the top of a rocky slope leading to the base of Indian Peak’s N ridge. Toward the NW, the big ridge was nearly snow-free, and didn’t appear to be as high. This was the same region where the topo map showed Trail No. 009 heading up onto the ridge.

Emerging from the trees near the base of the ridge. Photo looks SW.

Much less snow to the NW. Photo looks NW.

Looks easier to go up over there, doesn’t it, SPHP?

Sure does! Head that way, Loop. Maybe we’ll even find the trail again?

Going down the rock-strewn slope to the base of the ridge, the Carolina Dog found a small, icy tarn, but no sign of Trail No. 009. The snow-free part of the ridge was considerably steeper than the snowfield right next to it. When the snow generally held not only Lupe’s, but SPHP’s weight as well, venturing up the snowfield seemed the best option.

Near the icy snowmelt tarn. Photo looks NNW.

Heading up the snowfield. Photo looks W.

After a fair amount of progress up the slope, the snowfield steepened. Loop was still doing fine, but SPHP decided to abandon the snow for the bare ground, which despite being even steeper, provided better traction. Only a short trudge higher was now required to reach a bench bordered by a line of large, blocky boulders.

The boulders provided a good spot to take a breather, but Lupe was still only partway up the huge ridge. Another big climb, a snow-filled bowl, was to the W.

Another snow climb ahead! Photo looks SW.

Happily, although just as long, most of this climb wasn’t quite as steep as what the American Dingo had just done. Lupe enjoyed a pleasant romp in dazzling sunshine the rest of the way up.

Once on top, Loop found herself at a meadow near the low point of the entire ridge connecting Indian Peak and HP9582. This was about where Trail No. 099 ought to have come up from the E, and where Trail No. 056 should have begun its descent into Lake Basin to the W, but she saw no sign of either one. However, upon turning S to head for Indian Peak, the Carolina Dog quickly discovered a pile of trash beneath the first spruce trees she came to.

Another break was taken while SPHP gathered up all the miscellaneous trash for disposal later on. Sadly, a pile of 10 aluminum and tin cans had to be left behind due to a lack of space in the pack.

Up on the ridge. Someone had left a pile of trash beneath the closest spruce trees. Photo looks S.

The ridge narrowed and steepened as Lupe continued S past the dump. In some places, tightly-packed trees growing right along the crest of the ridge forced her to stay E out on the snow to get around them. The ridge eventually turned SE, and broadened out. Loopster traipsed up a bare, rather rocky, slope.

Climbing **Indian Peak**. Photo looks SE.

As she approached Indian Peak’s summit, the rate of climb diminished. Gnarled, old trees, many of them dead, were scattered along the upper W slope. Reaching the top, Lupe strode onto a huge snowbank wrapped around the N and E edges that covered most of a summit region 200+ feet long N/S, and 40 feet wide E/W.

Approaching **Indian Peak’s summit**. Photo looks SE.

11:37 AM, 63ºF, Indian Peak (9,683 ft.) – This snowbank was currently the mountain’s temporary true summit. The American Dingo stood at the high point near the N end. Far to the N, Grand Teton (13,770 ft.), Wyoming’s most famous mountain, soared into the blue.

**Grand Teton** (R of Center) from Indian Peak. Photo looks N.

**Grand Teton** (Center) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

Tremendous views in all directions! After a quick glance around, Lupe headed for a cairn visible at the S end.

The **summit region** from the snowbank. Photo looks SSE.

The cairn proved to be a loosely assembled pile of light-colored rocks. No sign of any registry or survey benchmark. Loopster laid down near the cairn, SPHP sitting beside her.

Relaxing by the loosely assembled cairn (L). Photo looks N.

Guess, this is it, Loop! Congratulations on climbing Indian Peak, your last summit in the Snake River Range on this Dingo Vacation.

Smiling broadly, Lupe gently offered her sweet paw. SPHP shook it.

Too bad this is the last one, SPHP! This was the easiest mountain so far around here. Didn’t take us long at all, and the views are just as good!

Yeah, but we’re about out of supplies now. After this, we’re going to have to head back to the RAV4. So, let’s enjoy Indian Peak while we can! Chocolate coconut bar? Last one!

Chocolate coconut bars are never a tough sell. The last one vanished PDQ. Looper also polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild supply. SPHP munched away at the last apple.

Yet another perfect day! For quite a while, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, enjoying the splendid view of now familiar mountains to the S from a slightly different perspective. Red Peak (9,771 ft.) was lined up almost directly behind Peak 9708. An easy ridge walk led to both of them.

In the distance, Peak 9736 and Deadhorse Peak (9,783 ft.) were more to the R, Bradley Mountain (9,292 ft.) and Stewart Mountain (10,103 ft.) even more distant to the L.

**Stewart Mountain** (L), **Peak 9708** with **Red Peak** (Center) beyond it, **Peak 9736** (R) and **Deadhorse Peak** (far R.) Photo looks S.

To the SW was a great look at the South Fork of Indian Creek valley, with Caribou Mountain (9,803 ft.) on the horizon.

**Peak 9736** (far L), **Deadhorse Peak** (L), **South Fork of Indian Creek valley** and **Caribou Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Eventually getting up to move around a bit, SPHP saw something shiny 40 feet down the SE slope. Turned out to be a bottle of Koala Springs beer, still half full. Emptying it onto the ground, the bottle got added to the rest of the trash stuffed in the pack.

Mount McDougal (10,780 ft.) and Triple Peak (11,127 ft.) could be made out far to the SSE, the Wind River Range, NE. Obs Benchmark (9,935 ft.) was only 2 miles due W, and Observation Peak (9,960 ft.), where Lupe had been only yesterday, a similar distance NW.

**Obs Benchmark** (L) and **Observation Peak** (R). Photo looks WNW.

At a leisurely pace, trying to savor every moment, Lupe and SPHP toured the entire summit region. As always, time flew. Another short rest back at the S end by the cairn, and sadly, it was time.

Been up here over an hour, Looper. Hate to say it, but we better move on. Got a long way to go.

Do you really think we’ll get all the way back to the RAV4 tonight, SPHP? Don’t you remember how long it took us to get up into this country?

Oh, don’t worry about that, Looper! We’re going to take a different route. This time, we’ll just find Trail No. 069, and follow it down the Dog Creek valley. Downhill all the way! Ought to be a snap. You’ll see!

12:44 PM, Indian Peak – Lupe headed N along the W edge of the summit region. A final glance back at the cairn where she’d spent most of her time up here, and she started down the NW slope, bound for the ridge leading N to HP9582.

Glancing back at the cairn (Center) before leaving **Indian Peak**. Photo looks S.

**Obs Benchmark** (L) and **Observation Peak** (R) as the descent begins. Photo looks WNW.

Heading down. **HP9582** (Center), **Grand Teton** (far R). Photo looks N.

The descent was fantastic! Everything was so beautiful! Loop loved the snowy trek back to the icy tarn. Varying her earlier route, she continued NE past the tarn, making rapid progress across a meadow.

About to leave the **N ridge**. **Wolf Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Beyond the meadow, Lupe entered the snowy forest. Losing elevation, she eventually found Trail No. 009 again, following it back down to the upper Dog Creek valley. The Carolina Dog returned to the glen where the tiny house had been set up last night, so SPHP could retrieve it and the sleeping bags, already packed up and stashed among the trees.

Then it was back to the upper Dog Creek valley. Following Trail No. 009 SE, it was bound to lead to Trail No. 069.

All was well! Everything was going great, exactly as expected. No snow down here to hide the trails. Lupe roamed as she pleased, stopping to sniff wildflowers and anything else of interest, while SPHP made great strides on the downhill march. After a while, an unmarked trail left an abandoned horse camp, heading NE deeper into the Dog Creek valley.

Had to be Trail No. 069, right? No doubt about it!

However, Trail No. 069 soon began to exhibit unexpected behavior. Rather than staying down along the N bank of Dog Creek as shown on the map, the trail ran along slopes S of the stream, often well above it.

Worse, every time another tributary had to be crossed, there was a drop, followed by a steep 40 foot climb. Not such a big deal, but enough to be annoying, when tired and a nice, smooth, easy march down the valley had been anticipated.

On the S bank, temporarily close to **Dog Creek**. Photo looks SW.

The trail crossed Dog Creek a couple of times early on while it was still small, but the stream grew fast as tributaries added to the flow. There was so much up and down, that SPHP mentally began to keep a running total of Lupe’s estimated extra elevation gain.

2 miles from the horse camp, Lupe was on a steep slope S of Dog Creek, about 200 feet above it, when Trail No. 069 curved R around a bend into a steep snow-filled ravine. The trail appeared level as it traversed this ravine. Once beyond it, everything still seemed fine, but the trail soon began to fade amid dense vegetation.

Up until now, the trail had been easy to follow. Expecting it would soon improve, SPHP pressed on, Lupe now following on the steep slope. The trail did improve, but only for a little way. Suddenly it was gone!

Lupe was approaching the narrowest, deepest, most steep-sided part of the entire Dog Creek valley, a wilderness of old forest, huge deadfall, and lush vegetation. Progress slowed to a crawl as SPHP thrashed through the jungle. Loopster began hanging back. Playing her stalking game, the American Dingo refused to follow unless SPHP was out of sight.

You’re nuts, SPHP! This can’t be right!

I know that now, Loop, but we’ve already lost a bunch of elevation. Let’s try to get down to Dog Creek. We must have missed a turn back at that ravine. The trail must be somewhere over on the N side of the valley now.

It sure wasn’t over here, but getting down to Dog Creek wasn’t easy. SPHP chickened out on a slope so steep that a fall seemed inevitable. A desperate, clinging climb back up, only to try again a little farther on. This time it worked, barely. Fording Dog Creek, Lupe scrambled 100 feet up an almost equally steep slope on the N bank before … yes! The trail!

Having lost a fair amount of time, but feeling confident again, it was:

Onward! Puppy, ho!

That wasn’t the end of the problems, though. More discouraging uphill sections, tough when hungry and weary, but the deadfall was the worst. Not a huge amount, but far from uncommon, too. The dingdong deadfall often forced steep climbs around not only the tree fallen over the trail, but others forming a long wall above or below it. Rinse and repeat every so often, each effort sapping energy and causing additional delay.

The trail eventually dropped down to Dog Creek. A ford, a dangerous one! Only knee deep on SPHP, but flowing fast straight into rocky rapids and deadfall. SPHP could manage, but what about Lupe? Neck deep against a powerful current, she’d get swept away, battered mercilessly against the rocks, and pinned helplessly against deadfall. The water a deadly, relentless force, she’d drown.

Carrying Loopster across was out of the question. The rocky creekbed was too uneven, SPHP would need hands free in order to use poles just to maintain balance.

What are we going to do, SPHP?

Mount McDougal, Loop.

Mount McDougal! What is that supposed to mean?

Just like we did there, I’m going to leash you up, Looper. You’ll have to swim. I’ll hang on to the leash, so you don’t get swept downstream. Won’t let go for anything! Promise! It’s not that far, you’ll be across in no time. I’ll help pull you through.

SPHP started across first. Worried, but trusting SPHP completely, Loop plunged into the frigid water on command. Worked! Seconds later, the Carolina Dog was shaking herself off on the S bank.

Gah! Right around the next bend, another equally dangerous ford. Poor Lupe had to do it again!

High on a very steep slope N of Dog Creek, Lupe came to a tree fallen over the trail. Clearly, no way around this one, the slopes both above and below it were nearly cliffs. Forcing a way through the multitude of branches levitating the trunk was mandatory. Loop managed easily enough, but SPHP had a heck of a time squeezing through.

A mile and 500 feet of lost elevation beyond this trouble spot, stopped in fading light for a breather, a sudden, sickening realization.

Ugh, Loop! I’m sorry! We have to go back!

Back where, SPHP?

To that blasted tree!

The one with all the branches? Why?

Yeah. I forgot the camera. Almost certain I left it hanging on a branch, while strapping the pack back on. Entirely my fault, Loop, but we can’t lose it.

Wearily, back up the valley. Sure enough, the camera was there. Grab and go! Right back down the same mile for the 3rd time.

Camera retrieved, as light faded even from the mountaintops, Lupe quit playing her stalking game. Suddenly she seemed energized, leading the way, leaping over deadfall, often far ahead of SPHP, pausing frequently to look back to make certain SPHP was still coming.

Dog Creek valley was longer than SPHP ever imagined. Trail No. 069 went on and on. Two more fords appeared in rapid succession, but weren’t as threatening. Lupe crossed both on her own. Eventually, the valley broadened out. No more significant uphill sections! Loopster traveled through tunnels of dense vegetation shoulder high on SPHP.

The sun was down. Signs appeared at junctions! One for the Little Dog Creek Trail, the other for the Cabin Creek Trail. SPHP kept watching for the unmarked side trail Lupe had followed into Beaver Dam Canyon 3 days ago, but never saw it. Stars appeared. The little flashlight came out. Traveling fast, with nothing to eat since Indian Peak, Lupe was a star herself! Always leading, never fading, or falling back.

10:21 PM, Dog Creek trailhead – Suddenly, it was over! The RAV4 sat alone, patiently waiting at the trailhead. Lupe couldn’t wait to leap onto her pink blanket when SPHP opened the door. Instead of falling asleep, she licked her paws until SPHP fed her, inhaling a whole can of Ol’ Roy.

SPHP was dead tired, but couldn’t stand being in filthy, sopping-wet boots. Driving to the Pritchard Boat ramp, SPHP washed sore feet in the Snake River before donning night socks and the old Merrell slippers. It was nearly midnight by the time a weary American Dingo returned to the dark, quiet Dog Creek trailhead to pass out for the night.

Good thing SPHP had no inkling ahead of time what Trail No. 069 and the Dog Creek valley were going to be like. Loopster never would have climbed beautiful Indian Peak (9,683 ft.)!

On **Indian Peak**, Snake River Range, Wyoming 6-26-22

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Observation Peak, Snake River Range, Wyoming (6-25-22)

Day 10 of Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7:34 AM, HP8844 on Wolf Mountain’s NE ridge –

I’ll be ready pretty quick, Looper!

The Carolina Dog was already ready. She watched patiently, though, as SPHP disassembled, then packed up her tiny house. The morning air was wonderfully cool and clear. Not a cloud in the sky! Nearby, the E face of Wolf Mountain (9,483 ft.) was brightly illuminated. Yesterday evening, Lupe had visited the summit.

Before long, it was Onward! Puppy, ho!

**Wolf Mountain** from **HP8844**. Photo looks SW.

Heading W around the N side of Wolf Mountain, the forest was full of huge snow banks. Snow covered long sections of Trail No. 062, slowing SPHP’s progress, and making the route difficult to follow. Meanwhile, Lupe was doing great! The American Dingo seemed energized. For the first time on this backpacking trip, Loop didn’t hang back playing her stalking game, instead keeping right up with SPHP, or leading the way.

Upon reaching the W side of Wolf Mountain, Trail No. 062 turned SW. A steady, snow-free, descent to Red Pass ensued.

Heading down to **Red Pass** (beyond Lupe). Snowy **Indian Peak** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

Arriving at Red Pass, Lupe paused briefly to take in the view S toward the N end of the Salt River Range. She then followed the trail NW, as it began to loop up onto the ridge W of the pass.

**Red Pass** W of Wolf Mountain. Photo looks SW.

**N end of the Salt River Range** (L) from **Red Pass**. Photo looks S.

Back on a snowy N slope again, SPHP lost the trail. Lupe rediscovered it before reaching the crest of the ridge. Once on top, Trail No. 062 began winding W along the ridge, often staying N of the crest. Loop enjoyed a terrific view of the Teton Range from open ground overlooking huge meadows, but came to forested stretches, too.

**W of Red Pass**. **Grand Teton** (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

As awesome as the views were, Lupe was far more interested in a herd of giant deers in one of the meadows.

A couple of giant deers with help from the telephoto lens.

Even out in the open, the trail was sometimes hidden beneath enormous snowdrifts melting away beneath the dazzling late June sun. Lupe liked crossing them. Hitting a high point early on W of Red Pass, Trail No. 062 began a gradual descent, interrupted periodically by short climbs.

Crossing a snowdrift. **Indian Peak** (L). Photo looks W.

Following the ridge. Top of **Indian Peak** (L), **HP9582** (R). Photo looks W.

Winding W along the ridge more than 1.5 miles beyond Red Pass, Trail No. 062 then curved NW, starting a steeper, more prolonged, descent. Near the bottom, a snowmelt pond appeared. Instead of continuing down to it, the trail curved W again, going past a little glen.

Wha’dya think, Loop? We’re almost down to the upper Dog Creek valley. This looks like a good spot to set up your tiny house to me.

Nice and secluded, but it’s only noon, SPHP! Aren’t we going any farther? I thought we were going to climb another mountain today?

Yeah, we are, Loop, but I’d sure like to ditch some of this gear. Think we’re close enough to where we’re going now to get there and back before dark. In fact, if we don’t ditch this gear before we have to start climbing, it will slow me down so much that we may not get to another summit today.

Well, if that’s what you need to do, then do it, SPHP! Fine with me! By the way, where are we trying to get to today?

Kind of depends on how it goes, Looper. Observation Peak (9,960 ft.) is our main objective, but if it seems out of reach, we might have to settle for Indian Peak (9,683 ft.), since it’s closer.

1:14 PM, near the upper Dog Creek valley – SPHP had the tiny house set up again. Sleeping bags and whatever else was heavy and expendable were stashed inside. Time to press on!

Ready to set out from the resurrected tiny house. Photo looks SW.

Heading W from the tiny house, the trail descended another 40 feet. A flat, open plain in the upper Dog Creek valley was ahead. Crossing 2 tiny streams, Lupe roamed WNW over the plain. She soon reached a larger tributary of Dog Creek. A short distance beyond it, a trail headed SW.

Entering the **upper Dog Creek valley**. **HP9582** (R of Center) ahead. Photo looks WNW.

Wading in the larger tributary of Dog Creek. Photo looks WSW.

This new trail was Trail No. 009. The topo map showed it climbing up and over a steep ridge 0.33 mile NNW of Indian Peak. This same ridge was also Lupe’s intended route to Observation Peak, so following this trail seemed like a sensible thing to do.

Crossing the big tributary of Dog Creek again, Trail No. 009 curved NW, and soon began slanting up an open slope. Gaining 200 feet of elevation, it then turned SW into a forested valley full of snow.

Trail No. 009 vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks SW.

From the amount of snow visible ahead, following the trail up onto the ridge N of Indian Peak suddenly no longer seemed viable. Abandoning No. 009, Lupe headed W into the forest.

The plan was to get to the ridge N of Indian Peak by the shortest route possible. After an initial climb, Lupe roamed through a large, relatively flat region of snowy woods, eventually emerging on a snow-covered plain just E of the ridge.

Heading W after abandoning Trail No. 009. Photo looks W.

Approaching the ridge between **Indian Peak** and **HP9582**. Photo looks W.

On the snowy plain below the ridge. Photo looks SW.

The ridge was such a steep climb that SPHP ventured up toward the NW where snow-free terrain provided better traction. A rest break was in order once up on top.

Relaxing on the ridge. **Indian Peak** (Center). Photo looks S.

Lupe had reached the ridgeline only a little S of HP9582. Following the broad ridge N after her break, a moderate rate of climb through mostly open forest got the Carolina Dog up to HP9582 without any difficulties. Next to a small area of flat, bare ground, a huge snowbank wrapped around the N and E edges, providing big views in those directions.

Wolf Mountain (9,483 ft.), where Loop had set out from this morning, and the long ridge she had traveled from Red Pass on the way here, were of particular interest.

**Wolf Mountain** (L of Center) in the foreground from **HP9582**. Photo looks ESE.

Forest hid the views to the S and W, but exploring HP9582‘s W slope, an opening was found where Observation Peak (9,960 ft.) was in sight.

**Observation Peak** (Center) from the upper W slope of HP9582. **HP9600** (R). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Observation Peak was now only 1.25 miles W, but the American Dingo faced a fair amount of up and down along the ridge leading to it. The next objective was HP9600. Continuing down HP9582‘s W slope, Loop quickly broke out of the forest, coming to nicely rounded, open terrain.

Heading for **HP9600** (L). Photo looks NW.

Arriving at the saddle leading to HP9600, SPHP got the brilliant idea that unnecessary elevation gain could be avoided by traversing the S slope. Worked great until Lupe ran into a rock slide, which made it easier to simply climb to the top of HP9600.

At the **saddle leading to HP9600** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

The rock slide on **HP9600‘s SSW slope**. **Observation Peak** (L). Photo looks WNW.

Being forced higher was a good thing. The views from HP9600 were wonderful! Snow-clad Indian Peak (9,683 ft.) looked beautiful to the SSE. Peak 9708 and Red Peak (9,771 ft.) strung out along the ridge S of it were lovely, too. Off to the W was a great look at both Observation Peak and Obs Benchmark (9,935 ft.).

At **HP9600**. **Indian Peak** (L), **Peak 9708** and **Red Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

**Obs Benchmark** (L) and **Observation Peak** (R). Photo looks WSW.

The trek W along the ridge leading to Observation Peak from HP9600 was gorgeous! The S slopes were nearly all snow-free. The N slopes still harbored extensive snow fields, which Lupe sometimes had to cross.

Following the ridge to **Observation Peak** (R). **Obs Benchmark** (L). Photo looks W.

Crossing a snow field. **Observation Peak** (R). Photo looks W.

Near the end, Loop came to a signpost half-buried in a large snow field, the only sign she had seen since leaving the Dog Creek trailhead 2 days ago. It wasn’t much farther to Observation Peak now. From a little rise, a trail was seen heading up a moderately steep, rounded slope.

Oh, yeah! Pure cake!

At the rare sign post. **Observation Peak** (R). Photo looks W.

*Got it made in the sunshine now, SPHP! C’mon, let’s get there!* Photo looks WNW.

5:41 PM, 66ºF, 5mph SW breeze, Observation Peak (9,960 ft.) – Conditions were ideal when the American Dingo arrived on a 300 foot long, 20 – 25 foot wide, summit ridge running E/W. This open ridge was wider and rounded toward the E, narrower and somewhat rocky W.

Scraggly trees ran along the N side about 2/3 of the way toward the W. Near the tallest of these trees, big sticks were piled at the true summit, almost on top of a cairn harboring a clear plastic jar with a blue lid. Only an old photo film container was visible inside.

At **Observation Peak’s true summit**. Photo looks E.

The plastic jar inside the summit cairn.

Congratulations, Looper, on your successful ascent of Observation Peak! After our ghastly start two days ago, I wasn’t so certain I’d ever have the pleasure of shaking your paw here!

Persistence, SPHP! I’ll do most anything for a chocolate coconut bar!

Well, you’re in luck, sweet-tooth puppy! Happen to still have one in the pack. C’mon, let’s pick a spot to rest where there aren’t so many trees.

Grabbing the plastic jar from out of the cairn, SPHP led Lupe out to the W end of the summit ridge. The views were fabulous! After sharing the much anticipated chocolate coconut bar, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap. Far to the NNE, Grand Teton (13,770 ft.) and Mount Owen (12,928 ft.) dominated what could be seen of Wyoming’s famous Teton Range.

**Grand Teton** (L of Center) from the break spot. Photo looks NNE.

Zoomed in on **Grand Teton** (Center) and **Mount Owen** (R). Photo looks NNE.

While Lupe relaxed, SPHP removed the film cannister from the plastic jar, and opened it. Within were only 2 carefully folded pieces of paper. One was sopping wet and barely legible. SPHP could make out only “2020” and “Sketchy climb up from the NW. Scintillating view!”

The other paper was merely damp. Dated way back on July 4, 1996, it was much more legible.

Observation Peak was apparently Peak No. 504 for someone from Idaho Falls.

Weary after a 3 day march to get here, Lupe and SPHP remained seated out near the W end of the summit ridge for quite a while. Magnificent mountain scenery was on display in all directions.

Obs Benchmark (9,935 ft.), with a sheer N face, was the most intriguing of the relatively nearby peaks. A long ridge extending toward it clearly dropped sharply away before connecting to it. Probably not easy to get to Obs Benchmark from here.

**Obs Benchmark** (L). A sliver of the **Palisades Reservoir** is visible (R). Photo looks SW.

After a while, SPHP managed to summon enough energy to get up and stroll about to gaze more intently on some of the other views. Loopster was willing to tag along, but generally preferred to lay down whenever SPHP paused somewhere.

From the E end of the summit ridge, the ridge Lupe had followed from HP9600 to get here was in sight. Wolf Mountain and Indian Mountain were clearly lower than Observation Peak, but on the SE horizon was a peak that was definitely higher. SPHP didn’t realize it at the time, but that was probably Hoback Peak (10,862 ft). Lupe had been there!

**Wolf Mountain** (L) beyond **HP9600** & **HP9582**, **Indian Peak** (R), and **Hoback Peak** (R) on the horizon. Photo looks SE.

Stewart Mountain (10,103 ft.) and the N end of the Salt River Range were far to the S, well beyond a line consisting of Red Peak (9,771 ft.), Peak 9736, and Deadhorse Peak (9,767 ft.). Only the top of Bradley Mountain (9,292 ft.) was visible at mid-range between them.

**Red Peak** (L), top of **Bradley Mountain** (L of Center) beyond Lupe, **Stewart Mountain** (R of Center) on the horizon, **Peak 9736** (R), and **Deadhorse Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Back and forth along the summit ridge multiple times, so much to see!

**Peak 9618** (L of Center), **Grand Teton** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

Relaxing at the W end again. **Peak 9618** (R). Photo looks NW.

The sun was sinking. Still going to be up for a while, but getting back to the tiny house would take a while, too. Lupe returned briefly to the true summit, then relaxed once more back at the fabulous viewpoint near the W end of the summit ridge.

Back at the **true summit**. Photo looks E.

Final moments on **Observation Peak**. Photo looks N.

7:00 PM – Sadly, as always, precious time had flown. On this glorious evening, Lupe left Observation Peak heading down the E slope, back the way she’d come. Although tired, her entire return was one marvelous scene after another.

Descending from Observation Peak. **Lake Basin** (foreground), Photo looks S.

Once back to HP9582, the American Dingo varied her route. Descending a steep, open slope, she reached a saddle on the ridge going E. Here, a gendarme presented a tricky little scramble. Went just fine. No other obstacles lay beyond it. Loop was soon able to leave the ridge, roaming SE through meadows on a long descent into the upper Dog Creek valley.

The sun was down, but there was still light in the sky when the weary Carolina Dog reached the tiny house again. What a day it had been! Lupe had made it to Observation Peak, her main objective. Even if she did nothing more than return to the RAV4 from here, this backpacking trip was now an official success.

Great job, but you better sleep tight, Looper! You’re not done here in the Snake River Range quite yet!

On **Observation Peak**, Snake River Range, Wyoming 6-25-22

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 307 – Peak 6170 & Atlantic Hill (11-24-22)

9:08 AM, 37ºF, junction of USFS Roads No. 345.1E & No. 344.2A – Thanksgiving Day! And what the Carolina Dog was most thankful for was the opportunity to spend the day exploring the Black Hills with SPHP. That sentiment, of course, was absolutely mutual.

So, what’s on the agenda, SPHP? Another Lists of John peak?

That’s right, Loopster! You still have a few left to visit in the Black Hills national forest. Peak 6170 is our objective today, although I’m not at all certain how it will go.

Why is that, SPHP?

We were in this region exactly a year and a day ago, Loop. Remember when we tried to climb Calamity Peak, and couldn’t? Saw Peak 6170 from a distance that same day, and it also looked pretty iffy.

At the start of USFS Road No. 344.2A ready to set out for Peak 6170. Photo looks NE.

You never really know how it’s actually going to go until you get there. Loop was more than willing to give Peak 6170 a shot, and in truth, SPHP felt reasonably confident of success.

Lupe set off heading NE on USFS Road No. 344.2A. The road climbed a bit, then leveled out and curved NW. Off to the NNE, 1.35 miles away as the crow flies, a somewhat unusual pointy summit was already in sight. Half of it appeared to be solid rock, a bunch of sheer cliffs, but the other half was forested.

That’s it, Looper! Peak 6170! 390 feet of prominence.

The sight of it made SPHP a little less confident. There better be a way up through that forested part. That rocky side was clearly a no go.

No worries yet, though! No. 344.2A angled N, descending into a valley of scattered pines and aspens. Some very rocky peaks even higher than Peak 6170 were directly ahead, but Loop wasn’t going to have to visit that rugged territory today.

About to descend into the valley. Photo looks N.

The road soon went past a small, frozen pond. Kind of scenic, but it was fenced off. Lupe kept going.

Only a few minutes past the pond, the road curved W. A 344.2A wand appeared on the R (N) over in the tall grass near some trees. The valley beyond this wand was the way USFS Road No. 344.2B was supposed to go, but no such road seemed present. Since it was also the way to Peak 6170, Loop abandoned No. 344.2A here.

Exploring this shallow valley NE, the Carolina Dog quickly discovered what was left of USFS Road No. 344.2B. The old road was pretty far gone at this point, overgrown and returning to nature. The valley was easy terrain, though. Only a little deadfall to deal with. Lupe made rapid progress, soon reaching a place where the valley broadened out.

Exploring up valley on what remains of USFS Road No. 344.2B. Photo looks NE.

The valley broadens out. Photo looks NE.

Pass 5780, a forested saddle, soon appeared ahead. The terrain was a bit steeper on the way up to it, with a fair amount of deadfall once Lupe reached the trees. Pass 5780 itself featured some big boulders, and a tree-broken view of more rocky high points beyond it.

Lupe was now only 0.33 mile WSW of Peak 6170. Leaving Pass 5780, she went E, traversing a steep forested slope with scattered rocks and quite a bit of deadfall. Soon it seemed easier to simply climb S up to Peak 6170’s SW ridge.

Still at **Pass 5780**, about to head into the forest. Photo looks E.

Climbing toward **Peak 6170’s SW ridge**. Photo looks S.

However, when Lupe got close to the ridgeline, she found it dominated by big rock formations and significant deadfall, making movement slow and difficult. Trying to head ENE, a couple of times Loopster had to lose elevation to get past obstacles. With 250 feet yet to climb, the SW ridge was not encouraging.

On **Peak 6170’s SW ridge**. Photo looks ENE.

Skirting some rock formations. Photo looks NE.

Once past the largest rock formations, the situation began to improve. Lupe reached a minor saddle. Beyond it, the ridge widened out, turning into a broad, forested ramp. There wasn’t even that much deadfall.

Climbing at a good clip, the American Dingo made excellent progress. In a sunny spot near the upper end of the ramp, there was more deadfall. Lupe was now getting quite high on Peak 6170, but it still wasn’t possible to see what was ahead beyond the trees.

Among the deadfall near the top of the lovely ramp. Photo looks NE.

Continuing higher, Lupe quickly came to more big rock formations. At first, she could scramble up among them, but before long, she reached the base of an enormous vertical-sided summit block. Looper climbed as high as she could, but she wasn’t even close to the top yet.

Arriving at the base of the summit block. Photo looks WNW.

Higher, but still well below the **summit block**. Photo looks ENE.

*I need my Dingo wings!* Photo looks ENE.

Tremendous views from up here, including Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) and the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), but room to move around was quite limited.

**Little Devils Tower** (Center), **Cathedral Spires** (R of Center), and **Black Elk Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

The W end of the summit block was simply insurmountable. Cautiously peering around at the NW face, the cliffs were fearsome. It was quickly apparent that getting to the top from this side of Peak 6170 wasn’t going to be possible. This was technical rock climber territory!

The prohibitive **summit block**. Photo looks NE.

Not looking too good for Peak 6170, is it, SPHP?

Afraid not, Loop. No way were going to get up there from this direction. N face is horrendous, and the S side doesn’t look much better. If there’s any way up this beast, it’s going to be from the E.

Well, let’s go over there then, SPHP.

Circling around the N side was out of the question, so Loop ventured ESE along the S face. However, she was soon having to lose elevation, with nothing but higher and higher cliffs above.

A nice view as the trek E along the S face begins. Photo looks SW.

Along the upper S face. Photo looks ENE.

Looking back at Loop after another drop. Photo looks WNW.

Eh. This isn’t going to work, Looper. We’re going to have to lose a ton of elevation to get over to the E side of the mountain. Can’t imagine that our chances are going to be any better than slim and none, even if we do make the effort.

Want to bail on Peak 6170 then, SPHP?

Yeah, the more I see of it, the more convinced I am this is just a fail. Too bad, I really thought there would be a way.

No worries, SPHP. Can’t win ’em all!

Time to head back W. Lupe returned to the highest point she’d made it to earlier, but there really wasn’t a way to get any higher. What, 40 or 50 feet short of the top? Something like that. Wasn’t even a close call.

Calling it quits below the S face. Photo looks N.

Some pretty cool rocks, but sadly no summit view from **Peak 6170**. Photo looks NNE.

Retreating a little way down the SW ridge, a rest break was taken at a shady flat spot covered with kinnikinnick rimmed with small boulders.

Well, that was just sad, Loop. Struck out completely at Peak 6170. Didn’t even get close enough to the top to fudge a bit, and call it good enough for Dingo work.

Speaking of fudge, SPHP, you wouldn’t happen to have a chocolate coconut bar in the pack would you?

Why, as a matter of fact, I do, Loopster. I presume it might help allay your disappointment with this turn of events?

Certainly willing to test that theory, SPHP. Bring it on!

On the way back down the valley where USFS Road No. 344.2B used to be, Peak 5874 was in sight. Lupe had made it to the top of that peak a year and a day ago. Turned out to be a pretty sweet spot, too.

**Peak 5874** (Center) during the return. Photo looks SW.

1:05 PM, 44ºF, junction of USFS Roads No. 345.1E & No. 344.2A – Back at the RAV4! The return had been pleasant enough, but SPHP remained chagrined by the fail at Peak 6170. Thanksgiving Day! Loopster surely hadn’t given up turkey with all the trimmings just to get a raspberry from the mountain! Still time enough to climb something else, if it wasn’t too ambitious.

Hop in, Looper!

We’re done already, SPHP?

Oh, no! Got one more peak in mind.

Another Lists of John peak, SPHP?

Yes, but you’ve already been there once years ago. What would you say to Atlantic Hill?

Atlantic Hill? Not Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.), I hope. Atlantic Peak was huge! Not even sure I remember an Atlantic Hill, SPHP. Hill does sound better, though, this time of year.

No, not Atlantic Peak, Loop. Atlantic Hill (6,393 ft.). Shouldn’t take long to climb it again. Success guaranteed!

Nothing wrong with that! The American Dingo was in favor.

1:29 PM, 42ºF – The start of the journey to Atlantic Hill was pure cake. Lupe simply followed USFS Road No. 297.1G from Medicine Mountain Road SW for a little over a mile. Most of this pleasant romp, which got her around to the W side of Atlantic Hill, was even slightly downhill.

About to set out on USFS Road No. 297.1G. Photo looks WSW.

A sunny lane between the pines. Photo looks SW.

The **N end of Atlantic Hill** comes into view. Photo looks S.

Even though Lupe had been to Atlantic Hill once before, this trek along USFS Road No. 297.1G was a new route.

Heading for the W side of the mountain. Photo looks SW.

A bit of snow lingering in the shade. Photo looks W.

Staying above a scenic valley on the R, No. 297.1G turned increasingly S as it brought Lupe around to the W side of the mountain.

Another long, grassy stretch. Photo looks SSW.

Near a bend overlooking the valley. Photo looks SSW.

Beginning to regain elevation, No. 297.1G eventually curved SSE before fading away. From the road’s apparent end, a fainter track continued NE up a partially forested valley. This track also vanished as Lupe reached a bunch of deadfall where the last of the more open ground gave way to denser forest.

Deadfall at the edge of the forest. Photo looks E.

Turning S to avoid the worst of the deadfall, the Carolina Dog soon found herself climbing a fairly steep slope. Approaching a ridgeline topped by big rock formations, avoiding deadfall became next to impossible. It was everywhere. Shades of Peak 6170!

Didn’t take too long, though, to find a way through, and get over to the S side of this line of massive rocks. The going was much easier here. Little deadfall, and a nice, wide ramp of open forest sloping up to the NE.

S of the big rocks on the easy ramp higher. Photo looks NNE.

Following the line of rocks, Loopster didn’t have to climb much farther before Atlantic Hill’s true summit, a rocky bump shaded by pines along the E edge of a much more spacious summit region, came into view.

**Atlantic Hill’s true summit** (R of Center) ahead. Photo looks NE.

3:07 PM, 38ºF – For the first time in more than 7.5 years, Lupe stood on the highest rock on Atlantic Hill (6,393 ft.). The whole rock formation leaned, creating a bit of an overhang to the E.

At **Atlantic Hill’s true summit**. Photo looks N.

**True summit** from a slightly different angle. Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Looper on your second successful ascent of Atlantic Hill! The “summit block” here is no comparison to the one at Peak 6170, is it?

Not at all, SPHP, although there were moments on the way up that rocky ridge, followed by the easy ramp, that seemed similar. Nothing to Atlantic Hill in the end, though.

Well, at least we made it to the top of something today, Loop. Can add this ascent to our list of things to be thankful for. Not to mention that I’ve got another chocolate coconut bar to split between us, too.

A cool breeze blew out of the NW as Lupe and SPHP took a break near the true summit. Did seem like a long time since the American Dingo was last here.

Atlantic Hill’s summit region was similar to SPHP’s vague recollections of it. Most of it slanted gently S, where several more rock formations were strung out along the E edge. A line of smaller outcroppings ran along the W edge, too. Between E and W was a 50 foot wide, mostly grassy area with scattered trees and deadfall. NW of the true summit was a smaller, flatter area with less deadfall and more trees.

Atlantic Hill was too heavily forested to permit more than tree-broken views in most directions. By moving around a bit, it was possible to get clearer glimpses in a few directions. After the chocolate coconut bar break, Loopster went on a short tour of the summit region. Highlights included views of Saint Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.), Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.), Thunderhead Mountain (6,567 ft.) (aka Crazy Horse) toward the NE, and a considerably lower forested region to the S.

The best view, though, was of Peak 6380.

We’ve never been to Peak 6380, have we, SPHP?

Nope. There’s a reason for that. See how rocky its summit is, Loop? Looks a lot less feasible than Peak 6170 did.

We could still conduct an investigation, SPHP. There might be a way up!

Maybe someday, Looper. Has all the leading indicators of of another fail, though, so it’s not a priority.

**Crazy Horse** (far L), **Sylvan Hill** (L), and **Peak 6380** (R). Photo looks ENE.

**Saint Elmo Peak** (far L), **Crazy Horse** (R) with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Crazy Horse**. Photo looks NE.

Lowlands visible from the S end of the summit region. Photo looks S.

Exploring the rocks along the W edge. **True summit** (R). Photo looks N.

**N end of the summit region**. True summit a few feet off the R edge. Photo looks WNW.

3:40 PM – The sun goes down mighty early on Thanksgiving Day. Half an hour on Atlantic Hill was about it. The turkeys got stuffed this morning, and by now almost everyone else was stuffed, too. A couple of measly, shared chocolate coconut bars today hadn’t been enough to stuff Lupe, though, as she left Atlantic Hill’s true summit for the final time.

Varying her return route, the American Dingo headed down to a saddle leading to a subpeak to the N.

Heading down. **Subpeak N of Atlantic Hill** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Skirting the E side of the subpeak, Lupe continued N, still exploring, still enjoying the day. This was a short cut, a more scenic and rugged route than USFS Road No. 297.1G had been. N of the subpeak, Lupe came to an open ridge with some views. Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) was a long, high ridge. Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.), South Dakota’s 2nd highest peak, beyond it was similar, while Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) sported a more classic, conical shape.

**Bear Mountain** (far L). **Odakota Mountain** (L) and **Medicine Mountain** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks NNW.

Exploring was fun! Loop passed some dramatic rock formations before reaching USFS Road No. 297.1G again, this time much closer to the RAV4. No turkey today for the Carolina Dog, but it had been a Thanksgiving to remember in the beautiful Black Hills. (End 4:40 PM, 28ºF)