Start – Palmer Creek trailhead W of Mount Rushmore, 7:38 AM, 41°F
Spring had sprung yet again! Maybe this time it would stick? A certain Carolina Dog, sick and tired of winter’s repeated attempts to reassert control, was more than ready. She arrived bright and early at the Palmer Creek trailhead with an ambitious day of peakbagging planned in the Black Elk Wilderness.
Black Elk Peak(7,131 ft.) from the Palmer Creek trailhead. Photo looks SE.
The first mountain Lupe was going for was Gap Lode Peak(6,560 ft.). As soon as SPHP was ready, the eager American Dingo was underway. Following the spur trail from the trailhead, she crossed the Palmer Creek valley. A bridge got her across tiny Palmer Creek. 0.25 mile later, Lupe arrived at the junction with Lost Cabin Trail No. 2.
In the Palmer Creek valley setting out on the spur trail. Photo looks SW.Loop reaches the junction with Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. Photo looks S.
At the trail junction Lupe went R. She soon passed a registration station for entry into the Black Elk Wilderness. SPHP registered, and Loopster went on.
Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 wound SW up a forested slope. After Lupe had gone a mile or so, she reached a level area. A massive granite formation extended a few hundred feet N from the trail. The exposed granite would provide views in several directions. Ready for a break, Lupe and SPHP went out onto the granite to look around.
Quite a number of peaks Lupe had been to before were in sight.
Loop out on the granite with a view of St. Elmo Peak(6,458 ft.) (L). Photo looks WSW.The double peaked ridge in the background is Zimmer Ridge(6,600 ft.). The high point at Center is the true summit. Photo looks WNW.Many smaller peaks Lupe has been to are seen here. The highest, on the horizon a little to the L of Loop, is Five Points(6,221 ft.). Photo looks N.
Looking SW, a big knob of rock capped the upper end of a sloping ridge. That knob of rock was the E high point of Gap Lode Peak. Loop still had a long way to go to get up there.
The knob of rock (L of Center) at the upper end of the ridge beyond Lupe is the E high point of Gap Lode Peak. Photo looks SW.
Lupe returned to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. She hadn’t encountered much snow lower down, but as the Carolina Dog continued gaining elevation, more and more snow appeared. Soon the trail had a couple of feet of snow on it, slowing SPHP down considerably.
Lupe liked the snow.
The snowy trail switchbacked up a long slope. Pine bark beetles killed a great many trees in this region years ago. Enough dead trees have fallen over to open up the views to some extent. Lupe had tree broken views to the N most of the way.
After a tedious climb, Lupe and SPHP reached a sunny, snow-free pass W of High Point 6482. This pass was the start of the Black Elk Wilderness.
After a long climb, Lupe reaches a snow-free pass W of High Point 6482 on the topo map. This was the start of the Black Elk Wilderness. Photo looks S.
The pass was as close to Gap Lode Peak as Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 was going to get. Lupe had been to the mountain once before. Even though Gap Lode Peak is only a little over 0.25 mile WSW of the pass, she knew that getting there wasn’t going to be easy.
The terrain between Gap Lode Peak and Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 is rough, but that wasn’t the big problem. Large amounts of deadfall timber were the real issue. The deadfall had been a significant problem the last time Lupe had been here. The situation hadn’t improved at all over the last few years. If anything, the deadfall was even worse than before.
As soon as Lupe left the trail, she faced large quantities of deadfall timber. She could travel fairly quickly through it, but the deadfall slowed SPHP down tremendously. Photo looks W.
Several large granite formations were W of the trail. Lupe went to them, climbing partway up to get a view. The E high point of Gap Lode Peak(6,560 ft.) was much closer now.
From rocks W of Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, Lupe gets her first close up view of Gap Lode Peak. Photo looks SW.Gap Lode Peak may not be very far away, but getting there is a pain. All the deadfall makes it an ordeal. It’s an impressive peak, though, for the Black Hills. Photo looks SW.On her way to Gap Lode Peak, Lupe would travel down past Skinny Rock seen at lower R. She then continued to the far ridge coming up near the R edge. This was a mistake. It would have been better to go L up the snowy slope to reach the ridgeline higher up like Lupe did the first time she came here. Photo looks SW.
To get any closer, Lupe had to descend into a valley chock full of deadfall timber. This valley had a N exposure, so 2 or 3 feet of snow was present as well. Progress became dreadfully slow.
Deadfall drove all route decisions. Lupe was constantly faced with choices. She had lots of options – bad routes, worse routes, terrible routes, and ghastly routes. SPHP tried to encourage her toward a nice selection of bad routes. The goal was to reach the lower end of a wall of rock ahead.
Crossing the obstacle laden valley involved no great distance, but chewed up plenty of time. Lupe did work her way through, though, and arrived at a tall, thin rock. She had passed by this same rock the first time she’d gone to Gap Lode Peak, too. It stood at the far N end of the wall of rock, and marked the point where Lupe could get past it. SPHP decided this landmark deserved a special name.
Being an endlessly creative and imaginative person, SPHP easily came up with the splendid name “Skinny Rock”.
“Skinny Rock”, SPHP? Oh, yeah, that’s sheer genius. Hope you didn’t strain your brain.
In the immediate vicinity of Skinny Rock, the deadfall wasn’t bad at all. As, Lupe continued on, however, she was soon back in the thick of it. Ahead to the W was Gap Lode Peak’s NE ridge. She pushed on toward it.
The first time Lupe had come to Gap Lode Peak, she had climbed this NE ridge reaching the ridgeline high on the mountain. This had worked well. SPHP wondered, though, if the ascent might not be even easier if Lupe could get up on the ridgeline at a lower point? The American Dingo set out to find out.
Struggling through deadfall and snow, Lupe managed to get close to the ridgeline. A continuous vertical wall of rock 15 to 30 feet high offered no obvious way to the top. A search along the base of the wall, revealed a place where it might be possible to scramble up.
Lupe had no problem doing just that without the slightest assistance from SPHP. From the ridgeline, she had a great view of the territory she’d just come through. She could also see that this wasn’t going to work. She was on a narrow, uneven wall of granite with drop offs on both sides.
Loopster reaches the top of a narrow spine of granite along Gap Lode Peak’s NE ridge. Unfortunately, this was a bad place to come up. Photo looks SSW.Lupe did have a good view of the territory she had just come through. High Point 6482 is on the L. The closer, lower rock formation on the L is where Lupe had the good view of Gap Lode Peak. Skinny Rock is visible lower down L of Center. Black Elk Peak is in the distance at Center. Photo looks E.
After a brief, failed attempt to make progress along this granite spine, SPHP gave up. Loopster retreated off the wall, and began heading SSW near its base. After going only a few hundred feet the wall ended. Loop returned to the ridgeline.
The deadfall on the other side of the ridge was bad, but the slope wasn’t quite as steep. This area had a N exposure, so there was plenty of snow. Lupe stayed on the W side of the ridge, leaping over or going under the deadfall as appropriate. SPHP struggled onward as well. Both headed SSW steadily climbing higher.
The terrain began to level out. Gap Lode Peak has two main high points, an E one and a W one, at nearly the same elevation. Lupe had made it to the deadfall strewn saddle between them. The topo map shows a tiny area within a 6,560 ft. contour at the W high point, which according to the map makes the W high point the true summit, since the E high point doesn’t have a 6,560 ft. contour at all.
SPHP had a different opinion. During Loop’s first ascent of Gap Lode Peak she had visited both high points. SPHP came away believing that the E high point was actually the true summit, though it was admittedly hard to tell for sure. Nevertheless, the Carolina Dog once again headed toward the W high point first. When she got close, it was time to take a break. Loop had an excellent view of Sylvan Peak(7,000 ft.) from a rock near her resting place.
Lupe near the W high point. Sylvan Peak is the high ridge at Center. Closer by on the L is a SW granite arm of Gap Lode Peak that Lupe would visit after the W high point. Photo looks SW.
Lupe curled up in the shade. She had water and Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched an apple. All the snow, deadfall, and rugged terrain on the way here took a few minutes to recover from.
When the American Dingo was ready, she went with SPHP to Gap Lode Peak’s W summit. She got up on one of the highest rocks. According to the map, she had reached the true summit of Gap Lode Peak(6,560 ft.).
At the W high point of Gap Lode Peak. This is the true summit according to the topo map. The E high point is seen nearby on the L. Black Elk Peak is beyond Loop on the R. Photo looks E.
The best views were toward the E and SE into the heart of the Black Elk Wilderness. This region contains some of the most rugged territory in the Black Hills. Huge granite formations of Black Elk Peak(7,131 ft.), Peak6920 and Little Devil’s Tower(6,960 ft.) dominated the landscape.
Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota is beyond Lupe. Large granite formations on the R are part of Peak 6920. Photo looks E.Peak 6920. SPHP isn’t certain if the summit is in view here or not. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.Lupe would soon be going to the E summit of Gap Lode Peak (Center). The route up is from the L. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.
After visiting the W summit, Lupe did not go directly to the E high point. Instead she went SW out onto a massive granite arm of the mountain. Deadfall made even this short jaunt time consuming. Once Loop made it to the exposed granite, though, it was easy to move around and enjoy some pretty spectacular Black Hills views.
At the end of the massive SW arm of Gap Lode Peak. The E high point is in view on the L. Elkhorn Mountain is the nearest of the two distant peaks on the R. Photo looks NE.Black Elk Peak is beyond Lupe. Peak 6920 is on the R. Photo looks E.Black Elk Peak from the SW arm of Gap Lode Peak. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.Bear Mountain(7,166 ft.) is part of the high ridge in the distance L of Center. Saint Elmo Peak is much closer on the R. Photo looks W.
Lupe finished her tour of Gap Lode Peak with a visit to the E high point. Deadfall once again made the trek difficult despite the relatively short distance.
Lupe nearing the E high point. Photo looks ESE.
Actually getting up on top of the E high point involved a short scramble. Lupe climbed up unassisted, although the scramble was right on the edge of what she could manage on her own. Looper did make it to the top, though. She could now claim her second successful Gap Lode Peak ascent, having once again visited both the E and W summits.
The views from here, of course, were for the most part quite similar to what Looper had already seen from the W high point.
Lupe up on one of the highest rocks at Gap Lode Peak’s E summit. Sylvan Peak is in the distance on the R. Photo looks SSW.Black Elk Peak (L), Peak 6920 (Center) and Little Devil’s Tower (Lupe’s ear on the R points to it) are all in view. Photo looks ESE.Looper atop the E high point of Gap Lode Peak. SPHP believes this is the true summit despite what the topo map shows. Photo looks SE.So I’ve done it, right, SPHP? Made it to both the E & W high points, so now I can claim another successful Gap Lode Peak ascent. …. That’s right, Looper! Great work, puppy! Photo looks SE.
Neither the E nor W summits of Gap Lode Peak are roomy, but there was a small level area up here where Loop could hide in the shade next to the highest rocks. The Carolina Dog decided she wanted to do that while SPHP admired the views.
Although the topo map shows that the W high point is the true summit, SPHP once again came to the conclusion that the E high point is actually higher. Admittedly, it’s a close call, but that’s how it appeared.
Sylvan Peak (Center) and the W summit of Gap Lode Peak (R). Photo looks SW.Bear Mountain (distant ridge at Center) and Saint Elmo Peak (R). The saddle between Gap Lode Peak’s E & W high points is in the foreground. Photo looks W.Black Elk Peak. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.
After being an eager participant earlier on, Lupe was reluctant to hop up onto any more rocks. After all, her peakbagging goal was accomplished. She now preferred relaxing in the shade. Not until it was getting close to time to leave could she be persuaded to resume her usual cooperation.
I’ve already done this mountain, SPHP. You admitted so yourself only a little while ago. What more do you want? Sheesh! Photo looks N.OK, OK, how does this look? …. Beautiful, Loop! Always better with a Carolina Dog, you know.Sylvan Peak (L) and the W Summit of Gap Lode Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.
After a leisurely time spent touring the highlights of Gap Lode Peak, Lupe was ready to move on. She now needed to get back to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. SPHP had seen from the E summit that she might be able to take a shortcut, and avoid losing so much elevation.
So after Loop made it back down to the saddle, she gave the potential shortcut a whirl. Lupe and SPHP plunged down a steep NNE slope in search of a better route E.
Looper still lost a bunch of elevation. This maneuver looked like it was going to prove to be a complete waste of time. However, as she neared a wall of rock, a possible saddle could be seen where Lupe might be able to get through. The saddle was a little higher than where she was at the moment. The effort of going back up to it was rewarded. Surprisingly, a narrow passage actually did exist.
Rock formations seen from the saddle between the E and W summits of Gap Lode Peak. These formations are closer to the E summit. Photo looks SE.Lupe finds a narrow passage to the E. Photo looks WNW.Hey, what do you know, SPHP? Looks like this is going to work after all. Kind of a cool secret passage! Photo looks NW.
Whether Lupe’s newly discovered secret passage E from Gap Lode Peak really saved any time is debatable. She certainly avoided losing as much elevation as she would have going all the way back down to Skinny Rock, but she wound up facing a longer than expected trek back to the trail. The deadfall wasn’t any better on the this route than on the Skinny Rock route, either. At least there was less snow this way.
At any rate, Loopster eventually did get back to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. Although she hadn’t traveled any great distance getting to Gap Lode Peak, hours and hours had gone by. SPHP had originally foreseen Lupe also visiting Peak 6920 and Black Elk Peak on Expedition No. 226. The sun would still be up for hours, but Peak 6920 would be another super time-consuming off trail march through deadfall and snow. Trails go all the way up Black Elk Peak, but the summit was still miles away.
Calling it a day would have been the smart thing to do. SPHP realized that Peak 6920 had to be dropped from consideration, but maybe Black Elk Peak wasn’t a lost cause yet? The Carolina Dog seemed energetic and perfectly happy. Lupe and SPHP continued on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 intent upon Black Elk Peak.
Pushing on to Black Elk Peak. Photo looks WSW.
On and on along the snowy trail. A short break was taken in a sunny glade. Lupe enjoyed a shared chocolate granola bar. Hitting the trail once again, she came to the Lost Cabin No. 2 spur trail, a shortcut to Trail No. 9 leading to Black Elk Peak. The spur trail gained elevation slowly following a creek. There was a lot of minor up and down along the way.
Lupe was nearing Little Devil’s Tower, but she was still far below it.
At the start of the Log Cabin Trail No. 2 spur trail. This was a short cut to Trail No. 9 on the way to Black Elk Peak, so Lupe took it.Little Devil’s Tower from the Lost Cabin No. 2 spur trail. Photo looks SSE.
When Lupe finally reached Trail No. 9, she started meeting groups of people on their way down to Sylvan Lake from Black Elk Peak. These were first people she had encountered all day. It was getting toward evening, so no one else was on the way up.
Before long, Trail No. 9 was practically deserted, too. Loop stayed busily engaged watching chipmunks. SPHP kept trudging higher. At last, the American Dingo was above Little Devil’s Tower(6,960 ft.) and the Cathedral Spires(6,840 ft.). Black Elk Peak wasn’t much farther now.
After enjoying chipmunk watching along Trail No. 9, Loopster reaches a view of the Cathedral Spires (R). Photo looks SSW.
Two people were still out on the observation deck of the old Harney Peak lookout tower when Lupe arrived at the summit of recently (2016) renamed Black Elk Peak(7,231 ft.). Brandon and Nate were rock climbers from Sioux Falls. The only reason they hadn’t started down yet was that they intended to camp somewhere not too far away. After a pleasant chat with SPHP, they departed as well.
Lupe left the observation tower, taking a trail from the basement out onto the granite W of the tower. A cool E breeze was blowing. SPHP shared the last chocolate granola bar with her.
Out on the granite W of the old Harney Peak lookout tower on Black Elk Peak. Photo looks SE.Cathedral Spires (R) from Black Elk Peak. Photo looks S.This was Loop’s 8th ascent of the highest mountain in South Dakota. Photo looks NE.
Lupe had made it all the way to Black Elk Peak, but shadows were lengthening. She couldn’t stay. In fact, it would be dark long before she could get back to the Palmer Creek trailhead. Better get a move on.
On the way back, the American Dingo made a loop, taking Trail No. 9 down to Willow Creek Trail No. 8. SPHP was thinking this might be a shorter route, but it had been a long time since Lupe had last been this way. Trail No. 9 stayed high much farther than SPHP remembered.
The scenery was beautiful, but Loop didn’t have time to dilly dally. It was a race against time and fading light.
On snowy Trail No. 9 on the way down to the Willow Creek trailhead.Looking back at the lookout tower on Black Elk Peak. Photo looks SW.Nearing Elkhorn Mountain prior to sunset. Photo looks NE.
Night won. Two miles before Lupe reached the Willow Creek trailhead, SPHP had to bring out the flashlight. After a short rest, Lupe trotted on, alert and uncomplaining, beneath silvery stars and a bright half moon. (End – 10:25 PM, 38°F)
Day 18 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
6:18 AM – Light out, sort of. Lupe sniffed around near the G6 in a thick fog. It had rained bunches yesterday evening and most of the night. No rain now, just this gray gloom. The air was dead calm. Little hope existed that conditions would change anytime soon. May as well snooze a few more hours.
8:44 AM – Awake again. The Carolina Dog was starting the morning off right, barking at a squirrel in the spruce trees nearby. Still foggy, but the fog was thin enough now so that a bright spot revealed the position of the sun. Slightly encouraging, but nothing to get excited about yet.
In the meantime, why not get a photo of Looper by the big red metal gate she’d gone by yesterday to start her fabulous adventure to Caribou Mountain(3,179 ft.)? As long as the fog persisted, there wasn’t much else to do anyway. SPHP joined Lupe outside the G6.
The foggy morning after climbing Caribou Mountain, Lupe stands near the red metal gate she’d gone past yesterday to start that adventure. The G6 had been, and still was, parked close by. This gate provides access to the Alaska oil pipeline service road, and is located on the W side of the Dalton Highway about a mile S of the Kanuti River. Photo looks W.
Lupe was still standing next to the red gate, when suddenly the sky brightened so much it actually seemed sunny out. Overhead, the fog was tinged with blue! Maybe this was only a ground fog that would burn off before long?
9:31 AM – Well, well! It was true! The early morning’s gloom had only been a ground fog after all. First, a tiny patch of blue sky appeared. It had spread with incredible speed. Within only 15 minutes, 80% of the sky was clear and bright. Sort of amazing to watch! This Arctic weather was so different from back home. Suddenly, things were looking up for Loopster! Adventure was back in today’s forecast now!
The fog had only been a ground fog. The morning sun was burning it away at a tremendous pace. Suddenly, adventure was in today’s forecast for Lupe!
And then, unbelievably, the whole process reversed itself. The sun had only been shining on the dewy tundra for a few minutes, when the additional warmth caused moisture from last night’s rain to evaporate, making the air more humid again. As quickly as the fog had burned away, it reformed. Dense fog engulfed the land again. The sun no longer existed.
Huh. Weird. Really strange. Lupe had never seen anything quite like that before. Now what?
Apparently anything at all might happen today. Since Lupe had finished the adventures planned for around here, she might as well continue N. She would just have to be flexible, and see how things worked out.
The fog and sun continued their battle as SPHP drove N. Lupe’s first stop was at an important landmark, one that was even more significant since Lupe had recently become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain(5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. At milepost 115.5 on the Dalton Highway, Lupe reached the Arctic Circle.
Lupe reaches the Arctic Circle at milepost 115.5 along the Dalton Highway. She had been here in 2016, too, but this time she arrived as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!
The sun had been winning its struggle with the fog, so Lupe and SPHP stuck around at the Arctic Circle for a while. There was both a picnic ground and campground here. SPHP used one of the picnic tables to prepare a meal. Meanwhile, Lupe was entertained barking at squirrels in the forest.
Once the meal was consumed, Lupe continued N on the Dalton Highway. It felt so incredible to be back in the Arctic again! The drive through mile after mile of Arctic wilderness was like a dream. Loop stopped briefly at Gobbler’s Knob (milepost 132) for a view of the Brooks Range, which she was rapidly approaching.
Even before reaching milepost 160, Cathedral Mountain(3,350 ft.) came into view. It hadn’t rained at all on Loop yet this morning, but a shower had passed through here not long before. The pavement was all wet. Conditions were admittedly a bit iffy, and it was already getting a little late in the day for starting such a big adventure, but maybe Lupe could still climb Cathedral Mountain?
Only one person who uses Peakbagger.com had ever climbed Cathedral Mountain, and that had been more than 22 years ago. Richard Carey had been there on 7-29-95. Fortunately, Carey had written a concise trip report full of useful information. Carey had mentioned a small pullout with room for only one or two cars at about milepost 168.5. Nearing the area, SPHP slowed down to look for it.
SPHP didn’t see any small pullout, but there was a really large gravel pullout on the NW side of the Dalton Highway about where Carey had said to look. Maybe things had changed in 22 years? Certainly possible. SPHP parked the G6. The American Dingo shot out eager for action. Things looked a bit iffy. Cathedral Mountain was right across the Dalton Highway from here, but the sky overhead was looking mighty gray.
Cathedral Mountain from the Dalton Highway near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SE.
All was not gloom and doom, however. A mix of blue sky and puffy clouds was off to the SW, and seemed to be heading this way. Loop and SPHP were both in favor of taking a chance on Cathedral Mountain. SPHP got everything ready, and the American Dingo set out on her next big adventure. (1:56 PM, 53°F)
Water could be heard on the SE side of the Dalton Highway. A stream was hidden over there in the forest. By the looks of the terrain, the stream would pass under the highway a short distance back to the SW. It would be nice to avoid a creek crossing. Lupe followed the highway SW until she was past where the stream went under it, before turning S and plunging into the forest.
Loopster on the Dalton Highway somewhere near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SW.
Lupe immediately found herself in a densely packed spruce forest on thick, spongy tundra. Tall, slender bushes were in the mix, too. This was exciting stuff for the Carolina Dog! Lupe ran sniffing and exploring, but was careful not to stray too far from SPHP.
Of course, the thick vegetation was still wet from last night’s rains and the recent shower in this area. Before long, Lupe and SPHP were both soaking wet, too. Not unexpected. Onward!
Lupe was immediately impressed with the dense forest off the Dalton Highway. She ran this way and that, excitedly sniffing and exploring.
From the Dalton Highway, a high barren ridge had been visible to the S well above tree line. That ridge appeared to be in the vicinity of Richard Carey’s successful line of ascent described in his trip report, so Loop needed to get up there. The ridge couldn’t be seen from down in the dense forest, but Loop and SPHP headed in its general direction.
Before long, water could be heard again. Another stream! Lupe reached it, and found the stream wider and deeper than could be readily forded. Both banks were lined with dense stands of tall bushes. Just getting in or out of the stream was an issue, never mind across it. No way! Maybe if Loop continued upstream far enough there would be a better spot? The stream might even bend off to the SW, in which case the Carolina Dog wouldn’t even need to cross it.
The terrain down by the stream was a difficult trek. Too many bushes amid jumbled rocks. Loop and SPHP turned E to climb onto a low ridge above the creek valley. This ridge headed SE, which wasn’t the really the direction Lupe needed to go, but would be fine for a little way. Climbing up onto and moving around on the ridge wasn’t all that easy, either. Spongy tundra made each step more difficult. While the spruce trees weren’t all that big, they were close together.
Lupe came to a few spots where the forest wasn’t so dense. The high barren ridge she needed to get to could then be seen to the S. Loop could also see farther up the creek valley. The news wasn’t good. The valley was turning SE instead of SW. Sooner or later, Lupe was going to have to find a way across that darn stream.
A view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to from a rare open spot in the forest. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.While SPHP fiddled around with maps worrying about streams and ridges and routes and terrain, Lupe was having a grand time in the forest on her first adventure N of the Arctic Circle since she became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!Another view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to (Center) from a little farther along in the forest. Lupe eventually was able to climb up the closer hill (L of Center), which led her to the E (L) end of the higher ridge. Photo looks S.
Lupe and SPHP continued SE gaining elevation gradually on the low ridge for a while longer. Finally, the time came to see how much of a problem it was going to be to get across the creek up here. Lupe went SSW, leaving the ridge to look for the stream.
The stream wasn’t far away. This time the news was unexpectedly good. The stream was rushing along, but much smaller up here, only 3 feet wide and not very deep. Easy squeezy! SPHP swung across it with the help of an overhanging branch. Lupe simply leapt across.
One problem solved. However, an hour had already shot by since leaving the Dalton Highway. Puppy, ho! Time to get up on that barren ridge.
Lupe reaches the stream again 0.5 mile upstream of where she had first come to it. The news was good this time. The stream was much smaller up here than it had been down below. Lupe could easily leap across it.
Once beyond the stream, Loop headed S gaining elevation. The barren ridge she was aiming for was soon in sight ahead. The climb got steadily steeper and steeper. Progress seemed slow.
Another big hill was closer than the barren ridge Lupe was heading for. It looked like it might connect to the barren ridge much higher up than where the Carolina Dog was now. Maybe Loop should climb this hill? Getting above all the trees, bushes, and spongy tundra would be a huge help. Seemed to make sense. Yeah, Loop was going to try this closer hill instead of trudging through this difficult stuff all the way to the base of the barren ridge.
The climb up the nearer hill was quite steep. The trees soon thinned out, though scattered trees and plenty of bushes remained for a while. The hill narrowed. Higher up, Looper started coming to rock outcroppings. The rock formations were small, only 10 or 20 feet high. The American Dingo always found a way around them, though they sometimes slowed progress. Before she’d climbed terribly far, Lupe was beginning to get views of the Koyukuk River.
Only partway up the first big hill Lupe climbed she started getting views of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.Rain showers are in progress beyond the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.
After what seemed like a long climb, Lupe managed to reached the top of the hill. She found that this wasn’t a separate hill at all. Loop was on a small level ridge protruding N from the rest of Cathedral Mountain. There were no trees here, although some bushes were around. Most of the ridge was covered with tundra and small rock outcroppings. Lupe had plenty of room to move around, and the views were the best yet.
Loop had expended so much energy having a blast down in the forest, that she was ready for a rest break. SPHP concurred.
Lupe curls up for a rest upon reaching the ridgeline at the top of the first big hill she’d just climbed. Her peakbagging goal, the summit of Cathedral Mountain, is beyond her at Center. Photo looks E.Lupe relaxes near the end of the small ridge. The Koyukuk River is in view. Photo looks N.Koyukuk River from the far end of the ridge. The Dalton Highway is on the near side of the river. Photo looks N.
While Loop rested, SPHP studied the topo map and read Richard Carey’s trip report again. Carey hadn’t mentioned anything about a stream crossing. As soon as Lupe had come to the stream, SPHP had suspected that she hadn’t started from the exact same place as Carey.
The topo map concurred. It seemed fairly certain Lupe had started out about a mile farther NE on the Dalton Highway than Carey had. Maybe more like at milepost 169.5 than 168.5. Eh, whatever. Looper must have started from just N of the streams shown in Section 12, and had left the Dalton Highway between them. If the American Dingo had only gone a little farther SW on the highway before leaving it, she would have completely avoided both streams.
This little ridge Lupe was on right now was between the “A” and “L” at the end of “Cathedral” on the map. The barren ridge Lupe was trying to get to was Carey’s “small hill” in the 2,500 ft. contour ENE of High Point 2545. Carey had passed a little S of this hill on his way E from the “low saddle”, which couldn’t be seen from here. All Loopster had to do now was gain the remaining 200+ feet of elevation required to reach the top of the barren ridge. She would then be in position to intercept Carey’s route the rest of the way.
Simple enough. The small ridge Lupe was already on connected directly to the slope leading up to E end of the barren ridge. Best get on with it. It had taken SPHP two hours just to get this far, and it was still a long way to the top of Cathedral Mountain. The weather might put an end to things at any time. Loop had been lucky so far, but rain showers were always in sight not terribly far away.
The ridge Lupe is on leads straight to the E end of the barren ridge she has been trying to get to all this time (Center). The top of the barren ridge is 200+ feet of elevation gain from here. Photo looks SSW.
Reaching the top of the barren ridge seemed to require more like 250 feet of elevation gain than 200 feet. The upper slope was surprisingly steep. Lupe had no problems, but SPHP was grasping for anything at all to hang onto, which wasn’t much. Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP made it to the top.
For the first time, Lupe could now see territory S of Cathedral Mountain. A check of the topo map matched up with what Loop was seeing exactly as expected. No doubt at all where she was now.
Lupe finally reaches the top of the barren ridge. Both the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (Center) and the slightly lower N summit (L) are in sight. Photo looks E.Having reached the top of the barren ridge, Lupe could now see territory on the other side of Cathedral Mountain. The Dalton Highway is in view passing through low ground dotted with small lakes. Lake 1035 is the larger lake on the L. Photo looks SW.The “low saddle” Carey had gone through on his ascent is seen between Lupe and the ridge at Center, which is High Point 2545. Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) is the multi-peaked mountain seen faintly beyond High Point 2545. Photo looks WSW.
From the barren ridge, Lupe could now join up with Carey’s route by heading SE toward an upper saddle at 2,750+ feet elevation. Lupe had a good view of this upper saddle, though the camera produced a lousy one due to moisture on the lens. A brief rain shower was sweeping over the area as the Carolina Dog was about to continue on again.
The upper 2,750+ ft. saddle (Center) from the barren ridge. Not such a hot shot due to a rain shower in progress, but still shows the overall lay of the terrain quite well. Lupe was heading for this upper saddle next. Photo looks SE.
The rain shower didn’t last long and was of no consequence. Lupe lost a bit of elevation leaving the barren ridge for the upper saddle, but was soon regaining it traversing a steep slope well below a rocky ridgeline. The slope was surprisingly tough going – slanty with minor drop offs, spongy tundra, and lots of bushes. Lupe finally climbed higher up on the slope close to the lower rocks, and things were a bit better up here.
Looking back on the way to the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is the hill L of Center. Beyond it and a little more to the L is Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.). The barren ridge Lupe had just left is on the R. The low saddle Carey had crossed is at Center. Photo looks W.Lupe approaches the upper saddle. The rain shower has moved on. Photo looks SE.Looking back again from near the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is in the foreground at Center. The low saddle is next to it on the R. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance beyond the Koyukuk River on the L. Photo looks W.
Lupe passed slightly above and to the N of the upper saddle. She was now heading E on the S side of Cathedral Mountain. Ahead was another even slightly higher saddle at 2,800+ feet elevation. On the S side of this highest saddle, High Point 2955 was in view.
Lupe at the N end of the upper saddle. An even higher saddle at 2,800+ ft. elevation is in view on the R along with High Point 2955. Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline is on the L. Photo looks SE.
From here, Carey had continued E staying somewhat below and to the S of Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline. The top of the ridgeline was to be avoided, since it was so rocky and jagged. Actually, the way SPHP read it, Carey had probably bypassed this upper saddle staying quite a bit higher and closer to the ridgeline than where Loop was now.
That didn’t matter. Lupe could easily angle up nearer the ridgeline as she kept going E. She headed toward a big rock fairly high on the slope N of the 2,800+ foot saddle.
From here Lupe would head for the highest big rock seen R of Center. Photo looks ESE.Lupe reaches the big rock on the slope N of the highest 2,800+ ft. saddle. The 2,750+ ft. upper saddle is in view on the R. The low saddle Carey had come though is at far R well beyond it. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance on the R. Photo looks WSW.
From the big rock, Lupe continued E, slowly gaining elevation. At first, this route was pretty easy. However, the slope kept steepening. As the tundra thinned out, Loop was more and more frequently traversing loose scree slopes.
Lupe continues E on Cathedral Mountain’s S slope not too far below the ridgeline. It was still easy going along in here. Photo looks WNW.Making progress. Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is now in view on the R. Photo looks E.The slope kept getting steeper as Lupe proceeded E. Vegetation thinned out and Loop began encountering more scree. Photo looks E.
For quite a long way, Lupe could see part of Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge ahead. A long slope on this side of it slanted steeply up to the N leading to the still unseen summit. If Lupe could get over to that slope, SPHP was pretty certain she stood a good chance of reaching Cathedral Mountain’s summit, provided it could be reached without any technical climbing. Carey hadn’t mentioned any.
However, it was still in question whether or not it would be possible to get over there. The slope Loop was on kept getting steeper, and SPHP feared the Carolina Dog was going to come to an impassable point. The views immediately below Lupe’s position were becoming incredible, and a bit intimidating. SPHP quit looking down.
The mountain presented a series of minor “horizons” coming down the S slope that Lupe couldn’t see beyond until she got to them. One by one she crossed them going E, but another always appeared a little farther on. SPHP kept wondering if Loop was too high or low on the mountain? The answer wasn’t obvious. The Carolina Dog just kept going.
Finally, a much larger ragged line of rock appeared extending down the S slope from Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline. What would Lupe find there? Would she be able to get beyond it? More to the point, could SPHP get beyond it? Being able to turn that corner was critical to success. Carey had done it, but he had genuine mountaineering experience.
Lupe needed to reach the greenish slope below Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge seen on the R. That slope goes N (L) right up to the summit. Carey had done it, but he had real mountaineering experience. The line of rocks coming down from the ridgeline ahead on the L made it questionable whether SPHP could get over there. Photo looks ENE.Lupe was feeling confident, even if SPHP had doubts. Just have to be able to turn this last corner! Photo looks ENE.
About the time Lupe reached the rocky spine coming down from the main ridgeline, a second rain shower appeared heading straight this way. SPHP donned the rain poncho. Once again, Lupe got wet, SPHP didn’t, and the shower passed by fairly quickly without putting a serious damper on things.
A second rain shower swept over Loop and SPHP at the hardest part of the climb up Cathedral Mountain, but fortunately didn’t last long before sailing away. Photo looks back to the SW.
Loop and SPHP had to down climb a bit to get around the rocky spine, but succeeded in getting by it. The worst part of the trek to Cathedral Mountain’s summit was now behind the American Dingo! If the summit wasn’t technical, she was going to get there. That wouldn’t be known until she climbed hundreds of feet up the steep scree slope ahead.
After getting by the rocky spine, Lupe still faced a long steep climb up to the ridgeline where she expected to find Cathedral Mountain’s summit. Photo looks NE.
Up, up, up! Steep. Real steep, but Lupe was finally approaching the ridgeline. Big rock formations sat atop much of it, but Lupe could keep progressing E easily enough staying a bit below them. The summit couldn’t be too far away!
After a long climb up the really steep scree slope, Lupe sits among rocks only slightly below Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline. The summit is just beyond the high point in sunshine on the R. Photo looks ENE.Near the top of the ridge not too far W of the summit. Lupe had come up the slope on the L. Photo looks WSW.A look at Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge. Photo looks ESE.
A little W of the mountain’s true summit, Lupe reached the top of the main E/W ridgeline. Now she could see in almost every direction. The views were stupendous! So, so beautiful!
Right up on top of the main E/W ridge now. Photo looks WSW.A rain shower sweeps through territory between Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (L) and the Koyukuk River. Photo looks W.Cathedral Mountain’s N summit from the main E/W ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.The Koyukuk River and Cathedral Mountain’s slightly lower N summit. Photo looks N.
An easy stroll E along the main ridgeline brought Lupe to the summit of Cathedral Mountain. Here she found two 10 foot high knobs of rock. They were separated by 12 to 15 feet of level ground covered with vegetation. The E knob appeared clearly higher by a foot or two. Neither of the knobs was very large on top, but there was room for Loop to sit or stand comfortably.
Lupe scrambled up onto the higher E knob first. She found a small cairn on top protecting two tin cans that were painted red. The larger can was turned upside down over the smaller one to shield it from the weather. The American Dingo had made it! Despite SPHP’s fears and doubts near the end of the journey, she sat calmly and confidently at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain(3,350 ft.)!
Lupe sits by the cairn at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain! Photo looks ENE.Loop on top of Cathedral Mountain. The red tin can protecting a smaller one inside containing a registry is in view as Loop found it. Photo looks ENE.Cathedral Mountain was the first mountain N of the Arctic Circle that Lupe climbed after becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by climbing AB Mountain(5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. Photo looks ENE.
So was there a registry inside the smaller tin can? Yes, there was! Inside was a plastic bag containing a pencil and a small notebook serving as a registry. A surprising number of entries were contained in it. Far more people had been up on Cathedral Mountain than SPHP would ever have expected.
Inside the front cover was something amazing. The notebook was in such good condition, it was hard to believe it was true. Richard Carey himself had brought this very notebook to the top of Cathedral Mountain more than 22 years ago! His was the first entry!
The notebook serving as a registry was in such great condition it was hard to believe Richard Carey had placed it up here more than 22 years ago. Inside the front cover, his was the very first entry.
SPHP entered Lupe’s name in the registry to make her ascent official. Lupe received lots of praise for her valiant efforts to get here, and SPHP shook her sweet paw in congratulations. SPHP recited how Cathedral Mountain was her 3rd summit ever N of the Arctic Circle and 1st of 2017, what memorable adventures each ascent had been, and how splendid each peak was!
Loop was pretty happy with all the richly deserved attention. Of course, the notebook and pencil went back in the plastic bag and inside the little red tin can. Everything got put back exactly as Lupe had found it.
Then, even though the day was getting so late it made SPHP nervous considering how long it had taken to get here, it was time to relax a bit up on Cathedral Mountain. Picture time! These were views Loop and SPHP would never want to forget.
Cathedral Mountain’s N summit with the Koyukuk River in the background. Photo looks NNE.A rain shower sweeps over the Koyukuk River valley. Photo looks NNW.Looking down on High Point 2955 in the foreground. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is on the R in shadow. Photo looks ESE.Loopster up on the slightly lower W knob in competition for the title of true summit of Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks WSW.On the W knob, only a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks W.Evening sunlight filters through clouds and rain showers down onto the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.Looking NNE farther up the Koyukuk River valley. Cathedral Mountain’s N summit is in the foreground. Photo taken with lots of help from the telephoto lens.Looking WSW over part of Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridge with lots of help from the telephoto lens.Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (Center) in evening sunlight. Photo looks W.
After nearly 40 minutes at the top of Cathedral Mountain, the sad moment of departure drew near. What a magnificent peak! Lupe climbed up on top of the summit’s W knob one more time.
Before departing, Lupe scrambled up on the W knob one more time. Photo looks E.Loop’s last moments atop Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks E.
The return trip was marvelous! It had seemed to SPHP that maybe Loop had been too low for too long on the ascent. At times, things had looked easier higher up. Of course, there was a lot of rock along the top of the ridgeline. Maybe it wasn’t possible to stay so high, but on the way back, Loopster was going to try.
Staying high worked. This was a faster route with amazing views. Lupe was eventually forced down off the ridgeline, but not until she was getting close to the highest saddle N of High Point 2955.
Heading down, but staying high along the main ridgeline as long as possible. This was a better route than the way Lupe had come up. Twelvemile Mountain is on the R. Photo looks WSW.Loop almost always had to stay on the S side of the main E/W ridgeline when forced to make a choice. The N side was usually cliffy. That wasn’t always true. Here she’s on the N side of the mountain with a fantastic view of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.Done with the main ridge and descending to the highest saddle. High Point 2955 is on the L. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.Lupe explores the highest saddle. Photo looks WSW.
Instead of returning to the top of the barren ridge on the way back, Lupe skirted it to the S as Richard Carey had done. She passed over the low saddle NE of High Point 2545 retracing Carey’s route. She continued W along the mountainside a little beyond the saddle before turning N and descending between two rounded bald hills.
Lupe with a grand view of the Koyukuk River from the W end of the low saddle Richard Carey had crossed N of High Point 2545. Photo looks N.
Lupe’s route below the bald hills was steep, but was full of thick tundra, which made it soft and easy. Going up here would have been tough, but Loop made rapid progress down the slope. She never did have to cross a stream, although she did cross a long stretch of boggy terrain on a much more gentle slope nearing the Dalton Highway.
The light was almost gone by the time Lupe made it back to the Dalton Highway. A 0.25 mile gradual uphill trek remained to Alpo and a warm blankie inside the G6. What a wonderful day Cathedral Mountain had been! (11:00 PM)
The Koyukuk River from the low saddle near day’s end, Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-17-17
