Day 32 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska
The replacement part didn’t look the same as the original one. Figures. SPHP didn’t have the tools, or the knowledge required to fix the problem. Better not mess with it any more. For some reason, lots of bees were flying around the O’Reilly Auto Parts store parking lot, and SPHP is allergic. Time to get out of here! Even though the G6’s right front headlight still wasn’t working, SPHP reassembled everything.
When SPHP had taken it all apart, hoping to simply replace the low beam headlight bulb, it turned out that wasn’t the problem. The bulb was fine, but the socket it fit into was partially melted. O’Reilly had the replacement part, or something that was supposed to work, for less than $10.
However, there was no telling what it would take to find someone here in Anchorage who knew where that extra wire on the replacement socket should go, and had both the time and tools needed to install it. A simple oil change had been $60, and taken hours to line up this morning.
When Lupe got home to the Black Hills in South Dakota, SPHP was going to just order a whole new headlight assembly and be done with it. That meant the $50 fix-it ticket would have to be paid, since there was no way an Alaskan state trooper would ever get to inspect the new headlight to confirm it worked, but that’s life. Que sera, sera.
No more wasting Lupe’s precious time in Alaska! The morning had already shot by. Fortunately, there was a nice little adventure she could do this afternoon. Lupe could climb Flattop Mountain(3,510 ft.), the most frequently climbed mountain in Alaska, with great views of Anchorage from the top!
Back to the Glenn Alps Trailhead (2:39 PM, 61°F)! Only yesterday, Lupe had started off from here for a fabulous day spent climbing The Wedge(4,660 ft.) and The Ramp(5,240 ft.). Glenn Alps, located on the SE side of Anchorage, was also the trailhead for Flattop. Having spent all morning lazing around resting up in the G6, Lupe was ready and raring to go.
Climbing Flattop wasn’t going to be the solitary, wilderness type experience Lupe had enjoyed most of yesterday climbing The Wedge and The Ramp. On this beautiful, warm summer afternoon, the trail to Flattop Mountain was packed with hikers (and dogs) of all descriptions.
The trail started off entering a forest, but Lupe was soon beyond that. She followed the trail gaining elevation gradually as it led her around the SW side of Blueberry Knoll(2,625 ft.). Flattop Mountain was directly ahead.
Once around Blueberry Knoll, the trail swept around the SW (R) side of another, steeper hill, part of the ridge extending NNW from Flattop Mountain. The trail steepened as it turned E (L) again back toward a saddle between this higher hill and the rest of Flattop Mountain. Lupe encountered a long series of wood framed steps filled with dirt and gravel on the way to the saddle.
Reportedly, there are two popular routes up Flattop Mountain. The steepest, most direct, route switchbacks right up the slope from the saddle to the top of Flattop. An easier route presumably goes somewhere more to the W (R). Lupe and SPHP never saw the trail for the easier route, although it likely separates from the steeper route somewhere close to, or a little above the saddle.
On this warm, dry, summer day, everyone seemed to be taking the steepest route right on up. Lupe took the steep route, too.
The switchbacks brought Lupe quite close to the top of the mountain, but the last 50 to 75 feet of elevation gain was more difficult. Here, the going was steeper, with large rocks and big steps up. A little light scrambling was required to reach the top. Nothing too tricky, but a bit of caution needed to be exercised along in here.
Lupe reached the top of Flattop Mountain a short distance W of an American flag flying at the N end of the summit area. Everyone was busy getting their pictures taken next to the flag. While Lupe was waiting for the crowd to clear out for her turn, she went to investigate some big cairns nearby.
Climbing Flattop Mountain, Lupe had gained about 1,300 feet of elevation, only a fraction of what she’d gained climbing The Wedge(4,660 ft.) and The Ramp(5,240 ft.) yesterday. However, she had a decent view of both mountains from Flattop.
Soon it was Lupe’s turn at the American flag.
Of course, with a name like Flattop Mountain, the summit area was very large, and rather, umm, flat. The top of the mountain was stony, and completely open with very little vegetation.
Still, there were a few things to explore. People had constructed big cairns, and even a large, circular stone fort. The true summit was at a collection of rocks off toward the SW. The mountain offered 360° views. While most people congregated near the American flag, Lupe went off to see what there was to see.
Too bad Lupe and SPHP didn’t do things in reverse order this day! The views of the Turnagain Arm, Cook Inlet, and Knik Arm of the ocean, plus all the surrounding mountains at sunset would have been a sight to behold! Shortly after that, Lupe would have had a sweeping view of all the lights of Anchorage at night.
Still, Lupe got a great look at everything under bright, blue skies on a warm, calm day, so she had to count herself lucky. Sunset was hours away, so it was time to press on. Lupe could have gone on to Peak 2, but after yesterday’s big adventure, SPHP wasn’t up to it and had something milder in mind. Lupe started back down Flattop Mountain the same way she’d come up.
On the way back to the G6, Lupe and SPHP left the main trail to make the almost trivial trek to the top of Blueberry Knoll. The views were good even from here!
Lupe reached the G6 again early in the evening (6:09 PM). Soon she was saying good-bye to Anchorage for the final time, heading NE on the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1). The drive was wonderful! It was 75°F! Lupe road perched high on her pillows and blankets with the windows open and a warm breeze blowing in her face.
Near milepost 25, SPHP took the Thunder Bird exit, parking less than 0.5 mile off the highway at the Thunder Bird Falls trailhead next to the Eklunta River (7:10 PM). Lupe’s last adventure of the day was to go see Thunder Bird Falls, a 200 foot waterfall on Thunder Bird Creek.
A wide, well groomed trail goes for nearly a mile through a forest to the Thunder Bird Falls viewing platform perched along the side of a bluff. The trail gained only 100 feet of elevation along the way. Lupe passed by private homes in the forest W of the trail. To the E, the Eklunta River flowed at the bottom of a deep, narrow gorge.
At one point, the trail went right to the edge of the cliff. A fenced viewing platform let Lupe peer straight down to the river.
Thunder Bird Creek is a tributary of the Eklunta River. At some point along the way, Lupe passed by their unseen confluence. The trail was now above Thunder Bird Creek. Shortly before reaching the Thunder Bird Falls viewing platform, Lupe passed by a short side trail that goes down to the creek near the base of the falls.
The view of Thunder Bird Falls from the platform at the end of the trail was somewhat surprising. The falls cascades down a very narrow gorge, twisting along the way. Only part of Thunder Bird Falls was actually in view.
Naturally, Lupe and SPHP were curious about what could be seen of the falls from below. After leaving the viewing platform, Lupe took the nearby trail down to Thunder Bird Creek.
As it turned out, unless one is willing to get wet, there was little to be seen of Thunder Bird Falls from below, although the valley was humid with mist and the roar of the falls came from just around a corner.
Thunder Bird Falls did provide a bit of excitement while Lupe was there. Three teenagers were crossing Thunder Bird Creek, intent on climbing the short, slick, steep muddy trail to a much closer and precarious viewpoint right next to the falls. The last girl slipped on her way across the creek. She plunged in getting soaking wet with a shriek that made certain big soft Dingo ears momentarily stand on end!
Despite her chilly reception in Thunder Bird Creek, the girl was tough enough to get herself up and out pronto. She continued across the creek and joined her friends to climb the muddy trail and see Thunder Bird Falls close up.
Lupe would soon make the peaceful, pleasant return trip along the Thunder Bird Falls trail as sunlight filtered through the trees on her way back to the G6 (8:11 PM). She’d had a pretty easy, relaxing day. Tomorrow she had a much bigger, tougher adventure ahead. For now, though, we leave Lupe along clear-running Thunder Bird Creek, near the roar and mist of Thunder Bird Falls.
Glenn Alps Trailhead directions: In Anchorage, from the Seward Highway take O’Malley Road E toward the mountains. Turn R on Hillside Drive, then L on Upper Huffman Road. Follow signs to the trailhead at the end of Toilsome Road. $5.00 daily parking fee applies.
Thunder Bird Falls Trailhead directions: From Anchorage or Eagle River, take the Glenn Hwy (Alaska Route 1) going NE to the Thunder Bird Falls exit near milepost 25. The trailhead is on the R about 0.5 mile from the highway. From Palmer, take the Glenn Hwy going SW. Turn at the exit for Eklunta Lake (milepost 26 or 27) to get on the old Glenn Hwy. Go SW past the turn for Eklunta Lake. The Thunder Bird Falls trailhead is on the L immediately after crossing the Eklunta River. $5.00 daily parking fee applies.
Day 31 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska
Glenn Alps Trailhead on the SE edge of Anchorage was a busy place. (11:52 AM, 55°F) It was certainly the first trailhead Lupe had ever been to where SPHP could pay the $5.00 parking fee by credit card. Spiffy. So uptown and 21st century.
Up town wasn’t where Lupe wanted to be. She was looking forward to adventures up mountain in spectacular Chugach State Park! Lupe and SPHP left the parking lot heading for the Powerline Trail. Turned out there was a closer, lower parking lot. Learn something new every day.
Lupe had a beautiful sunny day for her adventures. Not so long ago, SPHP had almost despaired of ever seeing the sun in S Alaska. Twice Lupe had been on the verge of leaving the state. However, she wound up spending the last few days exploring and adventuring in brilliant sunshine out on the Kenai Peninsula. A high pressure system must have finally chased the gloom away from the Anchorage area, too.
The Powerline Trail turned out to be an old road. Lupe took it SE toward Powerline Pass. The trail was busy with people jogging and biking. Mountains were in view ahead. From almost the very start, Lupe could see The Wedge(4,660 ft.), her first peakbagging goal, in the distance. For Alaska, it looked like an easy, not too inspiring climb.
To be honest, both Lupe and SPHP found the Powerline Trail rather dull. Too sunny, too warm, too busy, too low down, and far from the mountains. A long, boring trudge on a dirt road. It’s easy to get spoiled in Alaska! Hopefully the experience would improve.
It did. Gradually, the mountain views seemed less distant. To get to the valley leading to the saddle between The Wedge and The Ramp, Lupe had to leave the Powerline Trail after a couple of miles. A smaller side trail led down to a footbridge across the South Fork of Campbell Creek. As soon as Lupe left the Powerline Trail behind, suddenly everything seemed better and more beautiful.
After crossing the South Fork of Campbell Creek, the side trail went NE up a moderately steep slope. The trail entered a forest of stunted conifers. A couple of women came down the trail toward Lupe. They had seen a moose and calf only a little farther up, right on the trail!
Lupe and SPHP proceeded slowly, cautiously. Lupe saw the mama moose, but only got a glimpse of the calf. The moose were no longer on the trail, having wandered off into the forest. Lupe and SPHP got by them at a good distance without incident. Lupe was very interested in those moose! She was a good Dingo, though, and never barked.
Once past the moose, Lupe kept climbing through the forest on the trail. By the time the trail left the forest, it had deteriorated considerably. Only a simple single track path remained. Ahead to the ESE, Lupe now had a clear view of the big saddle between The Wedge and The Ramp. The saddle was still a couple miles away.
The trail crossed some fairly level terrain heading toward the valley leading to the saddle. Lupe arrived at a tributary of the South Fork of Campbell Creek. The trail could be seen on the other side, but there was no bridge, or even any decent arrangement of stepping stones across the creek. No problem for Lupe, but SPHP would have liked to avoid getting wet feet.
In the end, even though the stream wasn’t all that big, SPHP found no way across in this area without simply fording it. Squish, squish. Puppy, ho! Onward! Lupe climbed up the embankment on the far side of the creek and kept going.
It would have been better if SPHP had gone farther upstream before crossing. The trail vanished. Lupe soon found herself in boggy terrain on the S side of another small tributary. Higher, drier ground was over on the N side, but it took a while to find a reasonably dry way to get there.
Once on the higher ground N of the boggy creek, Lupe quickly found a trail again. Lupe and SPHP followed it toward the big saddle. For quite a long way, Lupe could run down to the creek for a drink any time she wanted. She enjoyed availing herself of this opportunity at regular intervals.
As Lupe continued up the valley, the trail became intermittent. In fact, there seemed to be multiple trails, but none of them was a firmly established dominant route. All started and stopped in unpredictable fashion. It hardly mattered. Lupe could always see the big saddle up ahead, and kept going toward it.
Eventually, the stream reduced to a trickle, then disappeared. Lupe was getting close to the saddle between The Wedge & The Ramp. She could have chosen to climb either mountain first, but went for The Wedge(4,660 ft.). It wasn’t as high, and looked like the easiest climb.
Lupe got up on a big rounded ridge that swept down into the valley from the saddle. On the other side of the ridge, she could see a large snowbank. Except for tiny tundra plants, nearly all vegetation disappeared as Lupe made the final climb up the rounded ridge to the saddle.
Lupe followed the rounded ridgeline all the way up to the saddle. The saddle was a very broad, rounded area as well. Lupe turned SW to ascend The Wedge. Although The Wedge had looked like an easy climb from way back down on the Powerline Trail, it was steeper than expected. Lupe roamed the wide slope at will, as SPHP trudged slowly higher.
The climb was steep, but not the least bit scary. The slope was covered with small rocks and plants. For the most part, it was all fairly stable. Lupe didn’t come to any trail going up, but she didn’t need to. Staying far from the cliffs was easy. Lupe could take any route she desired up the huge, broad slope.
It seemed like a long climb, but the terrain finally started to level out. Lupe reached The Wedge’s summit ridge near the NE end. The true summit wasn’t far away at a rocky prominence. While SPHP took a look an initial look around at the tremendous views, Lupe relaxed.
My, how those views had improved since Lupe started out way back down on the Powerline Trail!
The views of the nearby peaks were impressive, but far toward the E & SE horizons, Lupe could see even higher mountains and big snowfields. The camera’s telephoto lens provided a better look at what was out there.
Naturally, Lupe went over to the true summit of The Wedge to claim her peakbagging success.
After half an hour spent on The Wedge, Lupe started her journey back down to the big saddle leading to The Ramp. She stayed farther to the E than where she’d come up, hoping to see Ship Lake, which hadn’t been visible from the summit of The Wedge. As she lost elevation, Ship Lake came into view.
Lupe continued on down toward the saddle leading to The Ramp(5,240 feet). The Ramp is nearly 600 feet higher than The Wedge, and looked considerably steeper from afar. The upper slopes were much more rugged, and the top of the mountain comes nearly to a point. Lupe couldn’t expect any nice big summit area to relax on at The Ramp!
SPHP started wondering if Lupe could even make it to the top of The Ramp? Meaning, of course, SPHP wondered if SPHP could make it to the top! The first part of the climb wouldn’t be bad, but the closer Lupe got to The Ramp, the more concerned SPHP became.
Meanwhile, Lupe was leaving Ship Lake and The Wedge farther and farther behind as she progressed across the saddle and started up The Ramp.
For quite a long way, climbing The Ramp wasn’t any harder or steeper than climbing The Wedge had been. However, the way up was slowly getting progressively steeper. Lupe had already regained all of the elevation she’d lost going down from The Wedge and more, when suddenly a woman was in view above. She was coming down toward Lupe.
Lupe and SPHP soon met up with her. She had made it to the summit of The Ramp, and advised staying near the closest ragged, rocky ridgeline to the E where there was sort of an intermittent trail. Near the very top, though, Lupe should swing around to complete her climb along the W ridge. Going back down, Lupe could either return to the saddle or go down the W ridge, slowly turning SW into the valley.
SPHP thanked her for the advice, and she was gone. She was the only person Lupe saw all day after the two women who had seen the moose early on. The woman did seem to know what she’d been talking about, and apparently she’d made it to the top. Per her advice, Lupe and SPHP angled over to the ragged ridgeline.
The woman was right. An intermittent trail went up the ragged ridge. Lupe had less loose rock to contend with. There were also some fearsome drops only a few feet away on the E side of the ridge. Lupe and SPHP kept climbing. Lupe was getting there! More and more of The Ramp was down below. Less and less remained above.
As the woman had advised, and the terrain virtually dictated, Lupe gained much of the last 60 feet of elevation by moving over to the W ridge and climbing up from that direction. Very close to the top, Lupe traversed a narrow 30 foot long level ledge toward the SE, then scrambled 10 feet almost straight up to a small grassy area.
The narrow ledge had way more exposure than Lupe and SPHP are used to, but SPHP had good hand and foot holds all the way. Lupe seemed unconcerned. She had no problem crossing the ledge. She scrambled up to the grassy area as easily as if she were only part Dingo, with a good dose of mountain goat in her.
At the little grassy area, Lupe was only 15 – 20 feet below the summit. After a brief pause, Lupe and SPHP finished the climb. The last 10 feet were very steep, but once again, there were good hand and foot holds. Lupe managed to get all the way up to sit a only a foot or two below the tops of the highest rocks at the summit of The Ramp.
SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe go up that last foot or two. Huge exposure was only a couple feet away to the N. This was it. Close enough for Dingo work! Lupe was claiming her peakbagging success! With one hand, SPHP clung to the rocks, while operating the camera with the other.
Of course, the views were amazing from The Wedge. In fact, they were dizzying. SPHP clung to the rocks, taking pictures. At SPHP’s bidding, Lupe got down off the summit. She retreated to a less precarious position close to the grassy area where she could rest comfortably, while still enjoying the stupendous view. SPHP soon joined her. Wow, what an incredible place!
After 15 minutes doing nothing other than enjoying the views together, Lupe and SPHP started down. Once safely past the 10 foot down climb and 30 foot ledge, SPHP felt more relaxed about the situation. A long pleasant evening trek down the mountain ensued. Lupe took the alternate route down along the W ridge, eventually dropping well below it on her way to the valley.
The route stayed steep and rocky for a long way. Slowly the slope decreased. Tundra vegetation started taking over, and the way became less rocky. For Lupe, this was the best part of the entire excursion. For a long time, she ran free over great distances to her heart’s content. The tundra glowed with color in the evening light. The air was fresh and cool. Lupe was in American Dingo paradise!
Of course, Lupe always remembered to come running back to SPHP at frequent intervals, even though it was a chore having to constantly regain all the elevation she’d just lost.
Lupe and SPHP saw no one in the broad valley. The return trip was a glorious, peaceful, happy time.
By staying farther N in the valley, Lupe was able to avoid most of the boggy terrain lower down. SPHP even found a way over the tributary of the South Fork of Campbell Creek without having to ford it again. By the time Lupe was getting close to the Powerline Trail again, the sun was disappearing behind the mountains far to the W beyond Cook Inlet.
As Lupe and SPHP finally drew near the turn off the Powerline Trail leading to the Glenn Alps Trailhead, some of the lights of Anchorage came into view. Mountains were silhouetted against an orange sky beyond the Knik Arm of Cook Inlet.
SPHP remembered there was a small hill near the upper Glenn Alps Trailhead parking lot where the G6 was. Why not spend a view extra minutes to climb it and get a sweeping view of the lights of the entire city of Anchorage? It sounded like a great idea!
Lupe never got to. Someone else had the same idea, and had already claimed both the hill and the view as their own. (10:33 PM)Note: The Glenn Alps Trailhead is on the SE edge of Anchorage. To get there, take O’Malley Road off Seward Highway going E toward the mountains. Turn R on Hillside Drive, L on Upper Huffman Road, and follow the signs to Toilsome Road. The upper trailhead parking lot is at the end of Toilsome Road.