Brooks Range – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Table Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-24-22)

Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8:33 AM, Dalton Highway MP 237, Chandalar Shelf –

I don’t know, Loop. Let’s wait and see what happens.

SPHP sighed, and got to work on the trip journal. Anyone’s guess how this was going to turn out.

Relaxing on her pink blanket, Lupe stared out the window of the RAV4. Plenty of blue sky to the SE, and the mountains to the E were all in view. Sunlight illuminated the golden tundra of the Chandalar Shelf near the highway, but most of the gently sloping plain was hidden by fog. A much higher, thicker layer of clouds hung over all, the sky 80% overcast.

5 miles S, a dark mesa rose 600 feet above a region of highlands, only its lower slopes visible beneath the cloud deck, the upper portion shrouded in mystery. Somewhere near the W end, Shelley Rogers stood in frigid fog by a 6 foot tall cairn along the mesa’s N edge. She’d been waiting a very long time.

After an encouraging evening yesterday, hopes had been dashed last night by the sound of rain on the RAV4. Then, in the wee hours, Lupe wanted out for a few minutes. SPHP had been shocked to see a clear night sky. Stars proved it was no illusion.

The muddy morning drive up the Dietrich River valley past pavement’s end near MP 210 was a mixture of hope in the form of partially blue skies, and discouragement due to ground fogs and rapidly increasing cloudiness wherever sunlight warmed the damp tundra.

Lupe had been to the Chandalar Shelf twice in 2017, but conditions had never been right. Once she’d actually set out across it. A cold rain had forced a retreat. Looked a little better today, although it was easy to see that happening again. Wouldn’t take much.

9:18 AM, Dalton Highway MP 237, Chandalar Shelf – Out for a sniff! The fog was gone, but so was the sunshine, any remaining blue sky to the SE beyond vision. The dark mesa, Table Mountain’s summit, was almost completely hidden. Except for a few patches of blue to the W, the entire sky was gray.

The **Chandalar Shelf** from the Dalton Highway pullout at MP 237. Photo looks E.

**Table Mountain** (R of Center) beyond the **Chandalar Shelf**. Summit in the clouds. Photo looks S.

It’s going the wrong way, SPHP. Cloudier now than when we arrived.

Yeah. Not looking good, Loop. Never know, though. Still have quite a bit to do on the trip journal. Might as well hang out here until it’s caught up.

SPHP got the pack ready, just in case.

12:07 PM, 38ºF, Dalton Highway MP 237, Chandalar Shelf –

Ready for another sniff, Loopster?

Yes! I’m bored, SPHP. Have you finished with the trip journal yet?

Yup, pretty much. In any case, it’s decision time, Loop. Noon already. Any change?

Minimal, but the clouds seem a little higher, SPHP. Most of the mesa is in sight.

Really hadn’t been much of a change. A general gray gloom still hung over the Chandalar Shelf. Only a few patches of blue lingering off to the W prevented the day from being 100% overcast. Lupe was right, though. The cloud deck was a little higher now.

SPHP grabbed the pack.

Are we going, SPHP? Looks like a 50/50 proposition, at best.

I know it, Loop, if that! Ordinarily, I’d say no, but we’re a million miles from home. How many more chances are we going to get? One on the way back S, but things might easily be worse, and that could be it forever. Marginal, but the weather is the best we’ve ever seen it here. So, let’s try it. Like last time, if conditions take a turn for the worse, we’ll bail at the first sign of trouble. All we can do.

Minutes later, the American Dingo was trotting across the golden tundra of the Chandalar Shelf bound for Table Mountain (6,314 ft.).

Crossing the **Chandalar Shelf.** **Table Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The tundra was soft and spongy, but this part of the Chandalar Shelf wasn’t as tussocky or boggy as SPHP had feared. Progress was decent. Lupe sniffed among beautiful, bright autumn foliage, roaming at will.

From a distance, the Chandalar Shelf appeared almost completely flat, but 0.5 mile in, a dip appeared ahead. Nothing major, except that it did hold a surprise. A dirt road was ahead.

Approaching the dirt road. **HP4286** (L), **Table Mountain** (R). Photo looks S.

Hang on a minute, Loop!

What’s up, SPHP?

Been playing around with the new iPhone on this trip, and recently figured out how to start a GPS track with the Peakbagger.com app. Forgot to start one before we set out. Just give me a minute here, Loopster. I’ll get one started, and we’ll be on our way again.

Nothing like joining the new millennium almost a quarter century late! Do you see that road ahead, SPHP?

Yeah. That’s got to be the access road for the Alaska oil pipeline. Believe the pipeline is underground along in here. We can follow the road when we get to it for a little way, but it’s not going to take us up Table Mountain. As for millenniums, they aren’t all they’re cracked up to be, Loop. The last one up and died on me way before I was done with it. So much for their reputation for staying power!

Reaching the buried pipeline service road, Lupe followed it nearly 0.5 mile SSW, before leaving it to head S again. Turned out she should have stuck with the road a little farther to the top of a rise. SPHP realized shortly after leaving it that the driest, firmest ground was over that way. The Carolina Dog got there, but the road would have been easier than the tundra traverse.

At the buried **Alaska oil pipeline right of way**. Photo looks SSW.

A stretch of light gray scree topping a gently rounded minor ridge ran S from the road to the edge of a deep valley. 2 massive ridges extending N from Table Mountain cradled this valley between them. Lupe paused to take in the scene, which was really quite spectacular.

**Table Mountain** (Center), **HP4907** (L), **HP4622** (R). Photo looks S.

Wow! That’s impressive sight, isn’t it, Loop? So far, so good, too!

This is awesome, SPHP! And have you noticed? It’s getting sunnier!

Yes, suddenly looking much more promising, Looper. Onward! Puppy, ho!

The nice, firm scree soon gave out as Lupe turned SE toward HP4286, the last high point at the toe of Table Mountain’s easternmost N ridge.

Near the end of the scree. **HP4286** (Center). Photo looks SE.

HP4286 was merely a big hill, emphasis on “big”. Nearly 800 feet to the top from where Lupe started her climb as she left the Chandalar Shelf, the squishy tundra made each step harder than it ought to have been. No other obstacles at all, though. The American Dingo climbed along the middle of a shallow drainage where the tundra was a brighter yellow, SPHP trudging along behind.

In the shallow, yellow drainage. **HP4286** (Center). Photo looks SE.

Suddenly the sun came out, further brightening the yellow tundra. What had been a chilly start, was rapidly morphing into a warm day. After shedding multiple layers, SPHP burst into song.

Follow the yellow tundra road! Follow the yellow tundra road! Follow, follow, follow, follow, follow the yellow tundra road!

On the yellow tundra road. **HP4286** (Center). Photo looks SE.

Guess you aren’t in Kansas anymore, are you, SPHP?

No. Haven’t been in quite a while, Loop. I can assure you that Kansas doesn’t look much like this, though.

Looking back, the shadows of clouds drifted across the sunlit Chandalar Shelf. That might have looked a little like Kansas, but the unspoiled mountains beyond did not.

Looking down on the **Chandalar Shelf**. Mountains of the **Brooks Range** beyond. Photo looks NNE.

Toiling up the slope, which was only moderately steep, it seemed like a long way to HP4286. The sunny, optimistic time soon came to an end as clouds regrouped and another wave advanced. Blue sky vanished. Near the top, Lupe came to patches of bare ground, even a bit of rockiness. A light rain shower cooled the air considerably, and had SPHP reapplying those recently removed layers in a hurry.

Closing in on **HP4286** (L). Photo looks SE.

2:17 PM – HP4286 was a gently rounded hilltop, a mix of small rocks and thin tundra, with ample space to move around. Magnificent views lent credence to the notion that it had already been quite a trek just getting to this point.

Off to the N, Lupe looked down on the Chandalar Shelf far below. A pump station, or some sort of facility, was visible along the Dalton Highway. From this height, it was now easy to see the Chandalar River leaving the Chandalar Shelf heading SE down a long, broad valley.

**Chandalar Shelf** (Center), and **pump station** (Center) along the **Dalton Highway**, **Chandalar Rive**r (Center & R). Photo looks NNE.

**Chandalar River** from **HP4286**. Photo looks NE.

To the NW, another section of the Dalton Highway was visible way down along the Dietrich River. Colorful mountains were on the opposite side of the valley. Steep slopes led from gray summits to reds, greens, and golds below.

**Dalton Highway** (Center) down in the **Dietrich River valley**. Photo looks NW.

So far, Table Mountain’s dark summit mesa was still in view to the S, and a fair amount of blue sky remained to the SW. Lupe was soon bathed in weak sunlight again, although how long it would last was debatable.

**Table Mountain** (R), **HP4980** (Center). Photo looks S.

What’s this, SPHP?

Oh, that? We’ve seen those before in other places, Loop. You remember.

Yes, I do, but what is it, SPHP? What’s it for?

Well, now. It’s a standard, run-of-the-mill, triangular whatchamadoody, Looper. Reflects light, provides a good electrical ground, and protects whatever is underneath it.

What’s underneath it, SPHP?

HP4286, Loop.

Shouldn’t it be a lot bigger then, SPHP? It’s only big enough to protect a few pebbles and tufts of tundra.

You’re right, Loopster. Certainly appears some whatchamadoody engineer made a serious miscalculation.

By **HP4286**‘s run-of-the-mill **whatchamadoody**.

A 25 minute break on HP4286 was enough to recharge batteries before it was time to move on. Already in view more than a mile S, HP4980 was the next objective ahead. To get there, Lupe followed a ridge going SE from HP4286 that connected to the larger region leading to HP4980.

About to leave **HP4286** along the ridge at far L for **HP4980** (R of Center). Photo Looks S.

Progress was rapid along this SE ridge, which had some hilliness to it. SPHP enjoyed the downhill sections, even though it obviously meant having to regain all that lost elevation again real soon. Overall, it was another long climb, but a fun one, with lots of amazing territory for the Carolina Dog to explore. Loopster was soon across the SE ridge, and roaming higher SW toward HP4980.

On the **hilly** **ridge SE of HP4286**. Photo looks SE.

Exploring on the way to **HP4980**. Photo looks SE.

In the broad region leading SW to **HP4980**. Photo looks SW.

Lupe was having a blast! For quite a while, HP4980 was out of sight, but it eventually came back into view again after going through a little pass. By then, Lupe had already gained nearly all the elevation required to get there. Table Mountain (6,180 ft.) was in back view again, too. Although closer than before, it still looked a long way off.

**Table Mountain** (L), **HP4980** (R). Photo looks SW.

Approaching **HP4980** (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.

3:42 PM – HP4980 had a little more flair to it than HP4286‘s featureless top had to offer. Nothing too dramatic, but an 8 foot high rock formation toward the E end of a 60 foot long “summit” ridge served well as a spiffy Dingo Display Point. Another rock formation at the W end of this ridge was almost as high, but didn’t have much relief to it.

At the **W end of the HP4980 summit ridge**. Photo looks NE.

It was starting to look like Looper was getting up in the world! Back to the N, it was a long way down to the Chandalar Shelf now. HP4286 was quite a bit closer, but not that impressive from here.

**HP4286** (Center), **Chandalar Shelf** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

Amazing views were in all directions, but the most important one was to the SSW. Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) didn’t look that far away anymore. Most of an enormous, gently sloping region leading to it was in sight.

**Table Mountain** (Center) from **HP4980**. Photo looks SSW.

After a 15 minute break, Lupe left HP4980 following a broad, rounded ridge S. Up here, even the tundra was starting to fade away, leaving only dirt and rock, but the American Dingo faced no obstacles. Progress was excellent on this easy terrain.

Heading for **Table Mountain** (R) after leaving **HP4980.** Photo looks S.

Clouds sailed high overhead as Lupe trotted along, but patches of blue sky were around, too. The top of Table Mountain had been out of the clouds for quite a while now. SPHP had as much confidence as it was possible to have in this fickle clime that Loopster would soon arrive at the base of the 600 foot high summit mesa.

That was where confidence ended. A sense of unease was growing.

Looks mighty steep, Loop, especially along the upper rim. I sure hope we can actually get to the top.

Shelley Rogers did it, SPHP.

Yeah, but that doesn’t necessarily mean we can.

Getting closer. **Table Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Another glance over toward **HP4986** (R of Center). Photo looks ESE.

Getting to where she could turn SW, Lupe faced a wide plain of sparse tundra sloping gradually higher toward an upper plateau. The ground was soft with moisture, as the Carolina Dog headed straight for a steeper 200 foot high rise leading to the plateau.

Odd mounds of tundra grew near trickles of surface water in this area. Even more strangely, upon reaching the base of the steeper climb, Lupe discovered a natural path higher bordered by the mounds. Where the mounds ended, a faint use trail continued on up to the plateau.

Among the mounds. **Table Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

On the tundra mound bordered path. Photo looks S.

Above the lip of the steeper rise, the upper plateau still rose toward the SW. Table Mountain’s summit mesa was less than a mile away now, its high point toward the W, too.

The plateau was a world of rock. Virtually no tundra at all. Taking the easiest route higher, Lupe made a long, sweeping arc N then W.

Slowly turning due S again, the American Dingo seemed excited. Lupe roamed ahead, often pausing to gaze off in various directions, as though she detected, or expected, something out here. Focused on the mesa’s looming N face, SPHP never saw whatever she sensed.

The **summit mesa** (L & Center) upon reaching the **upper plateau**. Photo looks SW.

Approaching **Table Mountain’s N face**. Photo looks S.

Lupe staring off to the SSW. **HP6260** (R).

Whatever Lupe sensed out there, SPHP didn’t see it. **HP6260** (L). Photo looks SW.

Soon time to start the scramble! SPHP paused to study the precipitous rock bands extending along the upper rim of the mountain. Consulting Richard Carey’s trip report, it only confirmed that the route up was from the N on steep, loose scree. The entire N face fit that description.

Criminy! Doesn’t look any better from here than it did from a distance, Loop. Don’t really know where to start. Nothing looks good along the top.

Maybe we need to be closer where we can see more detail, SPHP? Pick a spot, and we’ll see how it goes.

You might be right, Loopster. Once partway up, maybe it’ll be obvious where we ought to go? Don’t know what else to do. Let’s try the middle, then drift W. Looks like there might be some clefts in the rock bands in that area. That’s my best guess from down here.

Nothing to it, at first. Lupe scrambled halfway up easy as pie on large scree that didn’t shift much. A confidence builder, but as the Carolina Dog continued higher, the scree became looser as the slope steepened. Rocks clattered down the mountain. What route might be best wasn’t clear at all. The upper rim still looked worryingly bad everywhere.

Maybe angling more to the E, where the upper rim was lower was the better choice? Climbing with increasing caution, SPHP slowly worked over that way. Approaching the upper rock bands, the grade became alarmingly steep. Virtually nothing was stable. Even exposed bedrock was rotten, often crumbling away after providing little or no support. There was firm bedrock in the mix, too, but everything had to be tested.

Approaching the rock bands. Photo looks SE.

Following SPHP, Lupe climbed and climbed, but very slowly. The last 150 vertical feet were just plain scary. Few decent pawholds, and those that did exist were tiny grips on safety. The climb wasn’t completely vertical, but was at the very limit of what SPHP could do.

A trekking pole got away, sliding out of reach. Going down to retrieve it was a near impossibility. Barely able to hook the wrist strap with the other pole while clinging precariously to the mountain, SPHP managed to coax it back within reach.

Shortly thereafter, just a little higher, Lupe made what should have been an easy leap, but the mountain crumbled beneath her. Clawing madly, desperate for control, SPHP watched in horror as the Carolina Dog fell 2 or 3 feet, then slid another 15 feet amid a clatter of small rocks before coming to a halt and regaining her balance.

You OK, Loop?

Yes, but this is crazy, SPHP! Come down!

Near panic set in, as SPHP realized that retreat meant an almost certain fall. Hands were needed for support, and there was nothing stable to hold onto. Only way out was to continue higher. Even that was looking near impossible. Frozen with fear, SPHP tried to restore calm before continuing higher.

How Lupe managed to follow, SPHP never saw, but she’d always had much better maneuverability, and was a fantastic scrambler. The very worst part of the climb was thankfully short. 30 feet higher, things got better. Soon they were rapidly improving. Scrambling up loose scree in a 2 foot wide gap between a couple of small, steep snowbanks, suddenly it was over. SPHP could stand up and walk, Lupe right behind.

An incredible feeling of relief flooded in.

Worst route ever, SPHP! Are you trying to get us killed?

No. You’re right, though, Loopster. Can’t remember anything we’ve ever done that was scarier. We’re lucky as H-E double toothpicks to be here in one piece. Guarantee you we’re not going back down that way. Got to be a better route somewhere.

A vast, rocky, rumpled slope rose toward the W. The true summit was that way.

Safely up the N face with an easy trek higher ahead. Photo looks SW.

C’mon, Loop! Let’s go meet Shelley Rogers!

Where is she, SPHP?

She’s standing by a 6 foot high cairn somewhere W along the N edge. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Angling SW away from the dangerous edge, Lupe started up the rocky slope in search of the true summit. 60 or 70 feet higher, she reached an equally enormous level plain. It was nothing but rock, too.

Heading off in search of Shelley and the true summit. Photo looks WSW.

6:24 PM, 43ºF, Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) true summit – Lupe hadn’t seen any sign of Shelley Rogers yet, or the 6 foot tall cairn, either, when she arrived at the true summit at the W end of the summit mesa. She did find something SPHP expected to see here, though. A red can was tucked inside a pile of rocks. Yup, Richard Carey had been here alright!

3 feet W of the red can, the “Table” survey benchmark was fastened to a little ridge of bedrock. 15 or 20 feet farther N, at the very highest part of this ridge, 5 rocks laying next to each other served as a poor excuse for a true summit cairn.

Near **Richard Carey’s signature red can** (Center). **Survey benchmark** visible R of Lupe near her rear paw. **HP6260** (Center & R) in the background. Photo looks SW.

**Table Mountain true summit**. Photo looks W.

Congratulations, Loopster, on your daring ascent of Table Mountain!

Lupe offered her paw so SPHP could shake it, but otherwise responded with little enthusiasm. Tired, hungry, and looking glum, she curled up at SPHP’s feet near Richard Carey’s red can. The Carolina Dog didn’t want water, but ate some Taste of the Wild. A chocolate coconut bar and beef jerky, both eagerly accepted, revived her spirits to some degree.

Looking ENE back across the **summit plain**.

Rest up, Loop, while I have a look at the registry Richard Carey left here.

Sign me in, SPHP! Might be the last the world ever hears from us!

The red can needed a new paint job, but, as usual at a Carey installation, the small green-covered notebook serving as the registry hidden within was in perfect condition.

Inside cover and first page of the registry.

Anything interesting in the registry, SPHP?

Yeah, sort of. Richard Carey and Shelley Rogers were both here on 8-1-95, nearly 27 years ago! Next entry is by Shaun on 7-5-98, almost 3 years later. Shaun writes “Quit our jobs, hitchhiked to the Brooks Range with nice people.” Surprising number of entries since then.

How long ago was the last one before my entry, SPHP?

Also 3 years ago, Loop, on 8-18-19. Amy Helkenn and Kenny Lake, both of Alaska, wrote: “Achievement! Now to find a better way down …”

A sentiment I wholeheartedly agree with, SPHP!

Me, too, Looper!

Richard and Shelly were here 27 years ago, SPHP? Thought you said Shelley was waiting over by the 6 foot tall cairn we haven’t seen yet.

She is here, at least in my mind, she is. I’ve seen her picture standing next to that cairn so many times on Peakbagger.com that I just expect her to actually be here.

In your mind, SPHP? So we risked our necks coming all this way to meet Shelley Rogers, and she hasn’t really been on Table Mountain for nearly 27 years?

In a sense, some echo of Shelley’s presence is still here, Loop. In my head, I can see that photo of her likeness. Something of Richard Carey is here, too. The red can, the perfect registry, all convey his presence at another moment in time, thereby conferring some degree of reality to it again due to our awareness of their significance.

You’re either a deep thinker, or deeply disturbed, SPHP. After that ascent route, I’m inclined to believe the latter.

Lupe’s traditional summit hour raced quickly by. She spent much of it resting near the red can cairn and survey benchmark, but also joined SPHP in short tours of the views. Glories of the unspoiled Brooks Range were all around! Richard Carey’s trip report mentioned that the sharp spire of Mount Doonerak (7,457 ft.) ought to be visible 26.5 miles W on a clear day. Lupe could see some big mountains out that way, but SPHP didn’t think any of them were Doonerak.

The American Dingo actually maybe could see the only other named peak SPHP really knew anything at all about. Loopster’s long revered Mountain of the Midnight Sun, really Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.), was visible 15 miles S.

**Peak 6450** (L of Center), **Snowden Mountain** (R of Center) in the distance. **Peak 6010** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 6450** (L), **Snowden Mountain** (L of Center), **Peak 6410** (Center). Photo looks S.

**Snowden Mountain** (L), **Peak 6010** (L of Center), **Peak 5310** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Snowden Mountain** (R in the distance), **Peak 6010** (far R). Photo looks SSE.

A journey over to the N edge to look for Shelley and the 6 foot tall cairn yielded no sign of either one.

Can’t believe the cairn is gone, too, Loop! Always wanted to get a photo of you next to it, right where Shelley was standing.

At 6 feet tall, the cairn would stick out like a sore thumb, SPHP. Face it, it’s not here. Only your delusions are.

Along the **N edge**. No sign of the 6 foot tall cairn. **Kuyuktuvuk Creek valley** (far L), **HP4286** and the **Chandalar Shelf** (R). Photo looks N.

Lupe enjoyed moments of sunshine on Table Mountain, but the sky was slowly clouding up. The air grew colder, and rain showers appeared off to the W.

Getting late. We’re going to have to start thinking about finding a better route down pretty soon, Loop. Want to take a tour around the perimeter of this entire upper summit plateau? If we circle around the S end first, we can scout out descent route possibilities on our way back along the N edge before bidding the true summit a final farewell.

Heading counter-clockwise around the summit plain, Lupe went far enough E to get a glimpse of the Chandalar River valley. The mountains were lower in this direction, and less distinct since a rain shower was passing through.

**Table Mountain’s S ridge** (Center & R), **Peak 5660** (L of Center) beyond. Photo looks SE.

**Chandalar River valley** (at base of reddish ridge). Photo looks ESE.

After enjoying the view, Lupe cut NNW across the summit plain. Upon reaching the N edge, she turned SW. Following her while peering over the edge, SPHP was horrified! Nothing but cliffs!

Along the **N edge**. **HP4940** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Lupe got all the way back to the W end of the mountain.

So what did you decide, SPHP? Find a good spot to start our descent?

No. We’re in trouble, Loop. Might be deceptive, but I saw nothing that looked at all doable from up here. Let’s check out this saddle real quick.

Just N of the true summit, a 10 or 15 foot dip led W to another massive rocky knob of high ground. Scrambling down into this saddle, SPHP peered N down a huge ravine. A snowbank filling part of the upper end could be avoided easily enough. Below it, bordered on the NE by a big spine of rock, a very long, steep chute of good-sized scree ran way down the mountain.

**HP6260** (L of Center), the **rocky knob beyond the dip** (R). Photo looks SW.

Looking down on the **saddle** (L). **Peak 5100** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

**HP4286** (Center) with the **Chandalar Shelf** beyond. **HP4980** (R). Photo looks N.

This ravine is a possibility, Loopster, but I don’t like that I can’t see how it ends.

Not like we have a million options, SPHP.

Believe me, I’m keenly aware of that, Looper. Let’s keep this in mind, but grab the pack and head for the lower E end of the summit mesa. Maybe there’s a better spot over there, E of where we came up?

Lupe at the **true summit** from the saddle. Photo looks SE.

7:45 PM, Table Mountain true summit – More than a full hour had fled up here! A final glance around, and SPHP grabbed the pack.

Bye, Shelley! Bye, Richard! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading E along the N rim, SPHP kept peering over the edge. Nothing! Still looked bad, as in impossible. Descending to the lower E portion of the mesa, Lupe finally came to a spot that looked better. Starting for it, SPHP quickly had a change of heart.

Too dicey, Loop. Decent spot to go down here, but not sure I can get to it safely. Start to slide, and it’s curtains!

Back to the W chute then, SPHP?

I don’t know. It’s 0.25 mile back, Looper. Let me think.

The sun was low. Time was running out. Showers still hanging around, and cloudier than ever. Already chilly. No choice. Lupe absolutely had to get down. Staying unprepared up here overnight at 6,300 feet in the Brooks Range was unthinkable.

Panic was rising again. How do you fight it when it’s justified? Must stay calm no matter what. Panic is the enemy, the voice of foolishness whispering, then screaming, in your ear. Everyone else that signed Richard Carey’s registry must have made it safely off the mountain. Lupe hadn’t found any skeletons.

Let’s take another look at where we came up before resorting to the chute.

No! You can’t seriously be considering going back that way, SPHP!

Let’s look. Then decide. We have to do something, Loop.

Lupe’s ascent route had to be somewhere nearby, but SPHP couldn’t find it. A zillion gray rocks up here all looked the same. Should have built a cairn to mark the spot! Panic rose another couple of notches.

What about your new iPhone, SPHP? You started a GPS track, remember?

Minutes later, the Carolina Dog was back above the 2 foot gap between the small, steep snowbanks. Yeah, this was the right place.

Still looked horrendous! Sitting down, SPHP hugged Lupe, stroking her soft fur for a few minutes while gazing out at the Chandalar Shelf and all these splendid, remote peaks of the Brooks Range. Stupendous, truly magnificent! Kissing Lupe on the nose, SPHP gazed into those trusting brown eyes.

Love you, Lupe, more than anything! This isn’t going to be pretty. We’ll go slow and easy. Stay behind me. If anything bad happens, go back to the RAV4 and stay there.

Poles, feet, hands at the ready to break any momentum, despite a sense of foreboding, SPHP began sliding slowly down the mountain on wet, dirty scree. Little girl technique! Sliding on your butt.

Showers of loose scree clattered down ahead of SPHP, some bounding a long way before coming to a halt. Completely silent, Lupe stayed right behind. Nerve-wracking, terrifying progress was achieved inch by inch, despite the paucity of reliable support. Below the 2 snowbanks, a chute angling E was better than drifting W back the way Lupe had come up.

The chute featured minor drop-offs where SPHP had to help Lupe down. Staying super cautious for a long way, fear was turning to confidence.

We’ve got this, Loop!

9:26 PM – Whew! Pants torn and filthy, SPHP could finally stand up and walk again. The sun was already down, dusk coming on as the Carolina Dog resumed her usual roaming. Uneventful, the long, pleasant return was exceedingly joyful. Marching beneath an otherwise overcast sky, a little light was still visible in rare gaps between clouds.

The entire world was silent and empty as views gradually faded to black.

Shortly before reaching HP4286 again, Lupe took a break at a small hill along the ridge. SPHP sat petting her as the American Dingo relaxed on soft tundra. 3 miles N, the lights of 2 trucks were creeping slowly along the Dalton Highway. Several more lights revealed the location of the pump station N of the Chandalar Shelf.

Carrying on, the flashlight had to be deployed. Descending HP4286, the pump station lights helped keep SPHP oriented. Crossing the Chandalar Shelf, they weren’t in view. Lupe headed for a dark triangle against the night sky. That triangle was HP4292 directly across the highway from the pullout where the RAV waited.

8-25-22, 12:56 AM, Chandalar Shelf – Raindrops, the first in many hours, began falling. No matter. 5 minutes later, an exhausted Carolina Dog leapt up onto her pink blanket. A can of salmon and Ritz crackers served as dinner.

Wow! Can’t believe it, Loopster. You made it to Table Mountain today! Guess we’ll remember this one for a while, aye? Unforgettable!

Nothing like an hour or two of terror to spice up an otherwise wonderful day, SPHP!

Eh, we lived to tell the tale, Loop. Everyone else whose been there must have, too.

You weren’t sounding so cocky a few hours ago, SPHP. If you don’t mind, I hope our next adventure doesn’t feature so much drama.

With that, Lupe closed her tired eyes and departed to Dingo Dreamland. Out in the black Arctic night, a steady rain poured down on the lonely Chandalar Shelf.

On the way to **Table Mountain**, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-24-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Table Mountain GPS Track

Richard Carey’s 8-2-95 Trip Report

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Lupe’s 2016 Last Mile North Revisited, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-23-22)

Day 25 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

1:53 PM, 55ºF, Dalton Highway MP 195.3, side road N of Nugget Creek – Rained all morning, which was OK since it was supposed to be a rest day, anyway, after Lupe’s grand adventures on her first ever backpacking trip in Alaska the past 3 days, but it wasn’t raining now. SPHP closed the trip journal.

All caught up, SPHP?

No, not quite, but getting sick of writing, Loopster. We ought to do something.

Outside the RAV4, the day was glum, darker again than it had been an hour ago. Apparently in need of physical support, heavy gray clouds draped themselves over all the mountaintops.

Sounds good to me, SPHP, but what can we do on a dreary day like this?

Just so happens, I’ve got just the thing in mind, Looper!

2:26 PM, Dalton Highway pullout near MP 207 –

Recognize this place, Loopster?

No, I don’t. Where are we, SPHP?

Ahh, well. That’s because these mountains are hidden to such an extent. You’ll recognize where we are soon enough. This is a favorite spot from some years back, one that used to have a special significance.

I’ll need more of a clue than that, SPHP. We’ve been to so many fabulous places!

Need a few clues, aye? Follow me, Looper!

The RAV4 parked near **Dalton Highway MP 207**. Photo looks S.

Crossing the Dalton Highway, SPHP led Lupe along a short access road, then turned NE.

The Alaska oil pipeline, SPHP!

By the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks E.

That’s right, Loop. Now think – we’re in the Brooks Range, and what mountains did we see off to the N from Peak 3780 a few days back?

Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) and Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.). Oh, I get it! This is my old last mile N trek from 2016, isn’t it, SPHP?

Sure is, sweet puppy! A perfect, easy stroll even on a gloomy day like this, too. Shall we?

Oh, I can’t wait, SPHP! I love this place! Been ever so long since we’ve been here.

Following the pipeline N for the first time in years, Lupe didn’t see any of the bunnies that used to live in the brush near the manicured service road, or the curious ravens that used to follow her hopping along up on the pipeline itself.

Nevertheless, it was awesome just being here again in the cool, moist air beneath the sullen sky. The Carolina Dog did get to see the shallow pond W of the pipeline again. It hadn’t gone anywhere.

The familiar shallow pond W of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks WNW.

Somewhat more than a mile along the pipeline led to the stream that flows W from the valley N of Dillon Mountain. When Lupe got there, it was running fairly high for this time of year, spread out over a broad, stony floodplain.

**Dillon Creek** at the N end of the traditional Last Mile N pipeline trek. Photo looks NE.

We used to call this stream Dillon Creek, remember, SPHP?

Yeah. Still seems reasonable. Don’t think it has any other name, Loop.

We go W from here to the confluence of Dillon Creek and the Dietrich River, right, SPHP?

Yup, that’s where your last mile N ended in 2016, Looper.

Looking in the direction of the confluence with the Dietrich River. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe wanted to go to the official end of her 2016 Last Mile N trek down at the confluence. SPHP wanted to, too, but had foolishly forgotten to bring the new red rain jacket, and all the bushes in the forest were still sopping wet.

Are you kidding me? How could you forget your rain jacket, SPHP, after all the rain we’ve seen over the past few days? Look at the sky! Looks like RAIN at any moment, doesn’t it?

Oh, I know. Silly me. Guess I just wasn’t thinking. Sort of thought that we could just wander down that way along the floodplain, but Dillon Creek is right up against the near bank now, and I don’t want to get my boots wet.

Well, it’s kind of a big deal, SPHP. How often are we here, anyway? Hardly ever. Last time was clear back in 2017. This was our big chance!

Sorry, Loop. We’ll do this again soon, and go all the way to the confluence to make it official. How does that sound? We’ll get to do this twice!

Only once good and proper, SPHP. And how “soon” is soon?

Maybe tomorrow, before we continue N, Loop. Or on our way back S a week or two from now.

Oh, well, I suppose that wouldn’t be so bad. Promise, SPHP?

I promise, sweet puppy, provided the weather isn’t dreadful.

OK then, SPHP. Just don’t forget. Remember, you promised!

Since SPHP didn’t want to get wet, it was already time to head back. The return was every bit as pleasant with iconic Sukakpak Mountain, most famous peak along the Dalton Highway, ahead in the distance. Too bad the summit was still in the clouds, but, of course, it was going to be on a day like this.

Heading back along the **Alaska oil pipeline**. **Sukakpak Mountain** (R). Photo looks S.

Continuing S. **Sukakpak Mountain** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Near the very end, the American Dingo went right on by the access road back to the Dalton Highway all the way to where the Alaska oil pipeline crossed the Dietrich River. The Dalton Highway bridge was in sight from here with Sukakpak Mountain beyond it. Sukakpak’s great N fin was now cloud-free.

**Dalton Highway bridge** over the **Dietrich River.** **N fin of Sukakpak Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSE.

3:39 PM, Dalton Highway pullout near MP 207 –

Wow, I’m glad we did that, SPHP! Great idea, although it would have been even better if you’d remembered to bring your rain jacket so we could have gone all the way to the confluence. Why are you humans such a bunch of sissies, anyway? Getting a little wet wouldn’t have killed you.

Maybe so, but look at it this way, Looper. You’ve still got my promise to come back again real soon, and do it up right next time.

That will be wonderful, if it actually happens, SPHP. By the way, speaking of what happens, what’s next now?

As rainy as it’s been, Loop, I’m thinking maybe it wouldn’t hurt to drive back to Coldfoot. Bet I can get an updated weather forecast at the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center. Might actually help us decide what we ought to do next.

Not a bad idea, SPHP! You could also go to the restaurant at Coldfoot Camp, and get me another big, juicy, barbecued beef rib from the buffet!

Heh. Maybe, Loop. They don’t serve the buffet until 5:00 PM, though. We ought to be there in plenty of time to order a hamburger instead, which might cost quite a bit less.

Not if you’re buying one for me, too, SPHP! And you better!

A little later at Coldfoot Camp, 60ºF –

Sorry, you can’t order from the menu now. Restaurant closes at 4:15 PM to get ready for the buffet. $27.95 tax included, all you can eat. Buffet opens at 5:00 PM, runs until 9:00 PM.

What time is it?

4:16 PM.

Figures.

That was fast, SPHP! Did you bring me a hamburger?

No. They said we’re having the buffet, Loop, but not for a little while yet. Let’s go get that weather forecast.

The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center did have a 5 day forecast. Not a very good one. Temperatures were fine. High’s in the 50’s, and lows in the 40’s ºF. No wind to speak of, either. Every day overcast, foggy, or at least mostly cloudy, though, with a significant chance of rain. A mere 40% tomorrow, but 60% or more after that.

Huh. Sometimes the truth isn’t that helpful.

Coldfoot Camp, 6:00 PM –

About time, SPHP! Anything left at the buffet? More importantly, did you bring me another luscious, barbecued beef rib?

Nope. Buffet was different tonight, Loopster. No ribs. Chicken or pulled pork. Since we’ve had plenty of chicken earlier on this Dingo Vacation, I brought you pulled pork. Think you’ll like it. Here you go. Have at it!

7:09 PM, 60ºF, Dalton Highway MP 195.3, side road N of Nugget Creek –

We’re staying here again tonight, SPHP?

Yeah, why not? Nice and quiet and secluded. I like it! So, how was that pulled pork?

Scrumptious, SPHP! Thank you! Too bad we can’t get the big buffet every night on this Dingo Vacation. Have to admit that the pulled pork lacked the bone crunching satisfaction of the barbecued ribs, though.

Glad to hear you enjoyed the pork, Loop. Figured you would. Want to take a stroll? Hardly any traffic out on the Dalton Highway at this hour.

Walking only a little way N along the quiet highway, a magnificent sight soon came into view off in the distance.

SPHP, look! There’s sunshine on Sukakpak! It’s out of the clouds!

It was true. Even some blue sky over that way. Time to keep a promise!

Back to the RAV4, Loopster! We’ll get a few pictures, then do up your 2016 Last Mile North the way it ought to be done this time.

Blue skies over **Sukakpak Mountain**! Photo looks NE.

**Sukakpak Mountain** from the **Dalton Highway.** Photo looks NE.

**Dillon Mountain** beyond the **Bettles River**. Photo looks ENE.

7:55 PM, Dalton Highway pullout near MP 207 – This time as Lupe set out along the Alaska oil pipeline, she turned S first, going the short distance to where the pipeline crossed the Dietrich River. Best to get another look at Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) from this angle before the clouds had a chance to regroup.

**Dalton Highway bridge** over the **Dietrich River** with **Sukakpak Mountain** beyond. Photo looks SSE.

It was a perfect evening as Lupe followed the Alaska oil pipeline N once again. Thrilling to see so much blue sky around! Maybe the weather forecast was wrong? If so, the Carolina Dog might get a chance to climb Sukakpak Mountain tomorrow! That would be so incredibly fantastic!

Following the **Alaska oil pipeline** N for the 2nd time today. Photo looks NE.

Full of such happy, stimulating thoughts, Lupe reached Dillon Creek in what seemed like no time at all. SPHP was prepared, already wearing the new, red rain jacket. Pushing past an initial line of alders and other tall bushes, Lupe headed W into the forest.

A luxurious Christmas carpet of thick, green moss, and short red bushes greeted the American Dingo. Although there were many tall bushes, too, the forest was fairly open, and easy to navigate. Displaying great energy and enthusiasm, Loopster sniffed and explored her way W through this hidden, special place, where it instantly felt like she was being magically transported back to a day long ago.

After 0.6 mile, Lupe reached the E bank of the Dietrich River. Down on the rounded stones and sand of the floodplain, Lupe followed the river upstream to the confluence with Dillon Creek.

8:47 PM, confluence of the Dietrich River and Dillon Creek – This was the place! Where does the time go? It had been more than 6 years now since Lupe had first been here on a beautiful August day. The dark blue mountain Lupe had seen the day before back then from the summit of Sukakpak Mountain, the one that SPHP had dubbed the Mountain of the Midnight Sun, was in sight again off to the N, it’s summit lost in cloud.

Confluence of the **Dietrich River** (L) and **Dillon Creek** (R). **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.

Remember how we thought this was as far N as we would ever be back in 2016, SPHP?

I’ll never forget that, Loop. It was as far N as we went then. For a whole year, I was always sorry we turned around without finding out what was beyond this point.

We returned, though, in 2017, SPHP, right back here before going all the way to Deadhorse!

Yeah, that was awesome, such fun times, Loopster! Really only thought we’d get as far as the N Slope in 2017. Everyone we’d talked to said that Deadhorse was just an ugly industrial place, and that going any farther wasn’t worth it. Once we got to the N slope, though, we couldn’t stop and turn around again. Would have regretted it forever!

Turned out to be marvelous, SPHP! Like going to the end of the world!

Indeed it was, Looper. Only bad thing was that no Dingoes were allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour. Had to go as your personal representative.

We’re going to Deadhorse this year, too, right, SPHP?

Absolutely, sweet puppy! Not turning around after coming this far again until we’re at the very end.

Many adventures to look forward to, to be sure! Right now, though, on this wonderful evening, Lupe lingered at this marvelous, magical place, remembering.

To the SE, Dillon Mountain was a mountain of gold! To the S, the spires of Sukakpak soared skyward in the late evening sun. Miles N loomed the dark blue mysteries of the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Turned out it had a real name, Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.), but Lupe had never climbed it. Too steep for SPHP.

**Dillon Creek** (L) and **Dillon Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Sukakpak Mountain** (Center). Photo looks S.

**Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (L of Center) from the confluence of the **Dietrich River** (L) and **Dillon Creek** (R). Photo looks NNE.

You can go back to a place you love after a long absence, but it’s never quite the same. Even if the place hasn’t changed, you have. What once was, is no more. Happily, despite a 5 year absence, Lupe’s 2016 last mile N hadn’t changed much at all, and the spirited Carolina Dog was once again looking forward to fabulous adventures ahead.

Doesn’t get any better than that!

Before we go, SPHP, we should get a souvenir! Something to remember this place and time. How about a snazzy rock for my rock collection?

Great idea, Loopster! I’ll have a look around, see what I can find.

A smooth white pebble with a gold swirl plucked from Dillon Creek only a few feet from the Dietrich River seemed a good choice. Lupe gave it a sniff of approval, and it was time to go.

Then it was back through the magical forest to the Alaska oil pipeline, and the easy stroll S in the cool evening air with Sukakpak Mountain ahead, the sky blue with promise for what tomorrow might bring. (8:52 PM)

Heading back along the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks S.

Evening at **Sukakpak Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

**Lupe’s 2016 Last Mile North Revisited**, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-23-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Poss Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska – Part 2: Denied! (8-21-22) & Peak 3286 (8-22-22)

Days 23 & 24 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-21-22, 6:03 AM, E of Nugget Creek near Victor Gulch – The American Dingo was still sleeping like a rock when SPHP poked a nose outside the tiny house.

Daylight in the swamps, Loopster!

What? Already, SPHP?

Yup, yup! Better get with it! Long climb ahead of us, if things don’t get any worse. Nearly 4,200 feet!

What’s it like out there this morning, SPHP?

Completely overcast. Kind of looks and feels like rain soon, but except for a little fog right at the summit, Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) is cloud-free.

Doesn’t sound that promising, SPHP.

Yeah, it’s right on the edge of being acceptable at the moment, but who knows? Anything might happen, Loop. It’s the weather, you know. If it clears off even a little bit, this will be our big chance, so we best get into position to take advantage.

Suppose you’re right, SPHP. Can we eat first? I’m starving!

Sure. How about some Taste of the Wild? You can munch away while I break camp.

We aren’t coming back here, SPHP?

Nope. Not going over Peak 3780 again. It was beautiful, but I’m thinking there must be easier ways out.

**Poss Mountain** (Center) from **low camp near Nugget Creek in Victor Gulch**. Photo looks SSE.

Once SPHP had the tiny house packed up and was ready, Looper set off heading SE, gradually gaining elevation while crossing an open slope of thick, spongy tundra and low bushes.

During last evening’s descent from Peak 3780 to low camp, the big open ridge N of Peak 5500 had looked not only like the best way to get closer to Poss Mountain, but a great place to establish high camp, too. To get to that ridge, though, Lupe was going to have to descend slightly into Victor Gulch to ford the E fork of Nugget Creek.

On the way down to the creek, the brilliantly colored bushes were much taller, and more of an obstacle. Forcing a way through, the Carolina Dog got down to an alder thicket right along the stream. Nugget Creek still had substantial flow up here, cascading swiftly down dark rocks.

**E fork of Nugget Creek in Victor Gulch**.

Can’t rock hop it, and it looks too swift, powerful, and deep for you to safely ford it here, Loopster. Let’s look for a more tranquil spot.

Continuing upstream despite the alders, a shallower, less turbulent spot soon appeared. SPHP went first, wading across without any problem.

You can do this, Looper! C’mon over.

Without hesitation, Lupe cast herself into the icy stream. Moments later, she was shaking herself off next to SPHP.

Gee, thanks, Loop!

If I can plunge in practically up to my neck, you can endure a few drops, SPHP. Onward!

Safely across **Nugget Creek**. Photo looks downstream.

For some reason, there were hardly any alders on this side. Pushing up a steep bank through small trees and more colorful bushes, Lupe was quickly through them. A long, open tundra slope continued hundreds of feet higher. Heading SW, the rate of climb gradually diminished as the Carolina Dog gained close to 500 feet of elevation.

Lupe was now up on the broad, gently sloping toe of Peak 5500‘s N ridge. The tundra was gorgeous up here, a mix of crimson, green, and gold. Unfortunately, instead of improving, the weather was looking less favorable. The top of Poss Mountain was now in the clouds.

**Lower end of Peak 5500‘s N ridge**. **Poss Mountain** (L), **Peak 5500** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Turning S, the American Dingo continued her climb at a much easier pace. An intermittent light mist began to fall. Really didn’t amount to much, but the way the sky was looking, SPHP paused to put on the new red rain jacket. Lupe simply had to put up with the mist. It didn’t curb her enthusiasm in the least, as she ran and sniffed her way toward big rock formations visible ahead along the crest of the ridge.

Approaching **rock formations** (L) farther up the ridge. **Peak 5500** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Upon reaching the rock formations, Lupe had a blast exploring them! Toward the W, they formed a dramatic line of sheer cliffs that dropped down to a broad, gently curving slope. The E side offered a spectacular view of a smooth tundra slope swooping ever more steeply down into Victor Gulch. A large waterfall tumbled into the deeply eroded chasm.

Below the **first cliffs**. **Peak 5500** (R). Photo looks SSE.

The **Victor Gulch chasm** (R). Photo looks NE.

The line of cliffs was not continuous, making it easy to switch from one side to the other. As Lupe continued her climb S, she visited both. The line of cliffs toward the W grew taller and even more impressive. Over on the E side, the gently curved upper valley from which Nugget Creek plunged into Victor Gulch was soon visible ahead.

Along the **base of the W facing cliffs**. **Peak 5500** (Center) ahead. Photo looks S.

**Nugget Creek** (L) begins its plunge from the upper valley into **Victor Gulch**. **Peak 5500** (R). Photo looks S.

From right up on top of the rock formations, Peak 3780, where Lupe had been only yesterday, was in view back to the N.

Above the cliffs. **Peak 3780** (L). Photo looks N.

Gosh, SPHP! We’re doing great! We’re already higher than Peak 3780.

Yeah, too bad this weather has turned so soupy, Looper. The upper valley over by Nugget Creek looks like a great place to establish high camp. Let’s head over that way.

Heading for the **upper** **Nugget Creek valley** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

The upper valley looked gorgeous, but the tundra proved to be boggy. Well before Lupe reached Nugget Creek, SPHP had a change of heart.

Sorry for the confusion, Loop, but let’s nix the valley. No point in setting up in a swamp. Let’s stick with the original plan, and find a spot back up on the ridge instead.

Returning to the ridgeline, the American Dingo continued S past all the cliffs to where the ridge was more rounded on both sides. Going all the way to a saddle next to Peak 5500’s N face, this looked like an ideal spot.

Lots of bare dirt in this region, but SPHP began erecting the tiny house on a suitably soft patch of tundra. Suddenly, there was movement high on Peak 5500. A mountain goat! Excited, Lupe dashed off toward it. The lone goat had no intention of making her acquaintance, promptly disappearing over a W ridge.

SPHP hadn’t even finished setting up the tiny house, when fog swept in from out of nowhere, and hid everything. After a few minutes, it drifted away, but Poss Mountain was now almost entirely shrouded in clouds. Only the lower black and gold slopes were visible. Not good!

However, Lupe was not discouraged in the least. Enthralled with this spectacular location, she had already turned her attention to exploring the immediate vicinity, sniffing excitedly around the base of scattered boulders. Finished with the tiny house, SPHP enjoyed watching her enormous enthusiasm.

The air had been completely calm all this time, but a sudden gust of wind sent all the bags for the tiny house, including the ones for the poles and stakes, flying NW. High in the air, they swirled away so lightly and easily, it was as if they’d been designed for flight. In a flash, they were way down the W slope!

After them, Loop! Don’t let them get away!

Barking excitedly at this new sensation, Lupe raced off in hot pursuit. SPHP eventually managed to recover 2 of the 3 bags. However, the bag for the poles flew beyond vision, disappearing hundreds of feet lower. Gone for good! Never going to find it! Fortunately, not a huge tragedy. SPHP was more upset at having it litter this unspoiled land than its loss.

8-21-22, 10:53 AM, high camp at 4,000+ feet near the N face of Peak 5500 – While returning to the tiny house with the recovered bags, mist turned to rain. Lupe was perfectly positioned for an attempt on Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.), but it clearly wasn’t going to happen under these conditions.

At **high camp** on a dreary day. **Peak 3286** (R foreground). Photo looks WNW.

Might as well go inside, Loop. We can dry off, have something to eat, and rest up while waiting for the weather to improve.

That last part seemed like a long shot.

SPHP dozed off and on, as it rained for hours. At times, Lupe attempted to snooze, too, but she was too corked up to remain in the tiny house for long. The Carolina Dog had already discovered that pikas or marmots were living unseen beneath a few big boulders scattered nearby. This temptation was simply too much. Loop kept going out in the rain to race back and forth from one boulder to the next, sniffing like a mad Dingo at the many access holes around them leading into hidden burrows below.

Out in the rain and mist, Lupe had a superb time roaming at will. It wasn’t until it started raining harder that she finally returned sopping wet to the tiny house, and settled down on her red sleeping bag.

8-21-22, 3:00 PM, high camp at 4,000+ feet near the N face of Peak 5500 – Waking, SPHP found the American Dingo peacefully asleep. However, something had changed. It wasn’t raining! Full of hope, SPHP peered outside. Those hopes were immediately dashed. Dense gray fog.

Hey, Loop! Wake up. It stopped raining.

It did? Are we going to climb Poss Mountain, SPHP?

No, afraid not. Foggy out. Evidently, Poss Mountain isn’t happening today, but we could explore the ridge a bit.

The American Dingo was eager to get back out there again. Wandering N along the ridge, most of the fog soon drifted away, revealing another big boulder at a high point. After continuing the foray N to the brink of the cliffs just for the fun of it, Lupe returned to the high point boulder.

On the boulder at the **local high point of Peak 5500‘s N ridge**. Photo looks SE.

You sure look happy here, Looper. Didn’t realize you thrive so under such gloomy conditions.

Even without climbing Poss Mountain, this place is awesome, SPHP! Pikas, marmots, a mountain goat, all this fantastic open tundra, big rock formations, and dark mountains. All mysteriously hidden and revealed in the ever-shifting fog. A Dingo could hardly ask for more!

Hmm. I see. Well, how about a trip farther up the Nugget Creek valley, Loop? We could find out what’s up that way, and reconnoiter whatever might be visible of possible routes up Poss Mountain.

Sounds like fun, SPHP! Let’s do it!

Abandoning the high point boulder, Lupe headed S back to the tiny house before angling SE into the upper Nugget Creek valley.

Leaving the **high point boulder** (R). Photo looks N.

Returning to the **tiny house** (L). **HP5500** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Heading into the **upper Nugget Creek valley**. Photo looks SE.

Staying high enough on the W side of the valley to avoid the wet tundra down by the creek, Lupe explored all the way to the S end of the valley where it curled SW. Another 1,000 feet higher, Peak 5500‘s true summit was visible from here, barely in the clouds.

**Peak 5500 summit** (Center). Photo looks WSW.

Doesn’t look that hard to get up there, SPHP! We could climb Peak 5500!

Believe you’re right, Looper, but let’s save our strength. Still hoping we might get a shot at Poss Mountain.

Getting mighty late in the day to do that, SPHP, even if conditions improve, which they aren’t.

I know, Loop. Poss Mountain has denied us today, but the weather might be better tomorrow. Would hate to fail at Poss because we unnecessarily wore ourselves out on Peak 5500 in this gloom.

Suit yourself, SPHP. It was just a thought.

Looking E across the valley, a couple of spots looked like feasible starting points for an attempt on Poss Mountain in the morning. They both led to some pretty steep terrain, but what was visible below the clouds looked doable. SPHP favored the spot closest to the S end of the valley.

Well, Loop, we aren’t going to try it now, so I suppose we might as well head back.

Heading down the **upper Nugget Creek valley**. **Poss Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

Rain on the way back to the tiny house continued intermittently during the early evening. After dinner, Lupe slipped out while SPHP wasn’t looking. No doubt off in search of pikas and marmots again.

Funny thing about these pikas. Apparently they were expert gardeners. SPHP had noticed that beautiful thick tundra flourished for 2 or 3 feet around the circumference of the huge boulders they liked to congregate beneath, even though those boulders were otherwise sitting in barren areas of nothing but dirt.

8-21-22, 8:04 PM, high camp at 4,000+ feet near the N face of Peak 5500 – It wasn’t all about pikas and marmots. While SPHP dozed, the Carolina Dog spent quite a bit of time lying outside the tiny house just looking at the views, always searching for some sign of movement.

The cloud cover had lifted some. Poss Mountain remained shrouded, but Lupe could see many lower peaks off to the W, along with part of Minnie Creek Lake, and portions of the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River close to where she’d started out from yesterday morning.

**Minnie Creek Lake** (L of Center). Photo looks WNW.

Want to go see the big waterfall in Victor Gulch, Loop?

She did, but it turned out that the waterfall seen earlier in the day wasn’t visible from this far S due to how deep it was in Victor Gulch. Lupe had a fantastic time anyway, racing across the tundra like a Dingo possessed. Rain sprinkled yet again during the return to the tiny house.

Sniffing around near **Victor Gulch**. Photo looks N.

Late evening brought more ambling forays N along the ridge. Gloomy and dark, Poss Mountain remained eternally shrouded in fog. Specks of blue sky to the N provided a glimmer of hope for tomorrow, as a bright white spot in the clouds slid toward the horizon.

Dusk arrived. The American Dingo spent a final dim hour lying on the wet tundra watching wisps of fog drift among distant mountains before retiring for the night.

What a glorious, restful day it had been! With high camp only a little over a mile W of Poss Mountain’s summit, Lupe was perfectly positioned for tomorrow, too. Hadn’t rained for a while now, either. Maybe those blue specks really did portend good news in the morning?

In any case, it would be Lupe’s last chance. First light would tell the tale.

A relaxing evening at **high camp**. Photo looks NNW.

8-22-22, the wee hours, high camp at 4,000+ feet near the N face of Peak 5500 – The sad news came well before first light. Rain on the tiny house again! It rained for hours, and was still raining when Lupe went out at daybreak. Foggy, little or no visibility, and a chill, steady rain.

Criminy, Loopster! Looks like ark building time!

Retreating back into the tiny house, it was actually time for breakfast and another snooze.

8-22-22, 8:33 AM, high camp at 4,000+ feet near the N face of Peak 5500 – Not raining now, and the fog had blown away from the ridge.

Now’s our chance, Looper!

Really? To climb Poss Mountain, SPHP?

No! To get out of here while we can stay dry for at least a little while. Still totally overcast out there, and we’ve seen what to expect. Sooner or later the rain and fog will be back. Hate to bail on Poss Mountain when we’re so close, but no telling how long we’d have to wait for decent conditions.

Disappointing, but that’s the way the cookie crumbles. Everything out! SPHP packed up the tiny house, and Lupe was on her way.

Final moments at **high camp**. **Minnie Creek Lake** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Leaving the high camp ridge, SPHP led Loop WSW along Peak 5,500’s steep N slope. Staying fairly high, she crossed a number of rock slides and ravines during a gradual descent. Slow going, but the Carolina Dog came to some nice stretches of tundra, too. An hour into it, the clouds developed a blue tinge.

Some gorgeous tundra on **Peak 5500’s NW slope**. Photo looks SW.

Maybe we should go back, SPHP?

Pay no attention to this little bit of blue, Looper! Just a trap. You’ll see!

Took 2.5 hours to work around to the first rock formations on the giant, rounded ridge NW of Peak 5500. Lupe had skirted along through a lot of rock, tundra, and even a swampy region with tall bushes and a stream to get here.

Smooth sailing now, though! Turning NW, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress on firm, gently sloping terrain. Stunningly beautiful tundra led from one interesting, isolated rock formation to the next.

Glancing back to the E, Poss Mountain’s summit was completely cloud free for the first time in two days. Annoyed, SPHP muttered something about being taunted by the mountain’s evil spirit, and continued NW.

On one of the first rock formations along **Peak 5500‘s NW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

**Poss Mountain** (L), **Peak 5500** (R). Photo looks E.

The big rounded ridge was a wonderfully fun, easy, downhill romp! Spectacular scenery on all sides, and what rock formations there were presented no difficulties. A grand view of the Nugget Creek valley was off to the N, sandwiched between Peak 3286 and Peak 3780. Minnie Creek Lake was coming into sight again to the NW.

**Peak 3286** (L), **Nugget Creek valley** (Center), **Peak 3780** (far R). Photo looks N.

**Minnie Creek Lake** (L). Photo looks NW.

Closing in on **Minnie Creek Lake**. Photo looks WNW.

A mile E of Minnie Creek Lake, Lupe reached a minor hill along the big ridge. A small rock formation stood along a low ridge of flat gray rock. On the surrounding gentle slopes, little bushes of brilliant crimson and orange put on a stunning display of Arctic beauty.

**Peak 3286** (L) and **Peak 3780** (R) from a Dingo display formation. Photo looks N.

**Poss Mountain** (L) and **Peak 5500** (R of Center) from the colorful hill. Photo looks ESE.

What an incredible place! Can we stop here for a while, SPHP?

Sure, let’s take a break, Loop. This is fantastic!

8-22-22, 12:03 PM – Lupe curled up on the tundra. SPHP threw a maroon jacket over her. While the Carolina Dog napped, SPHP munched on trail mix. Pondering the gorgeous views, SPHP speculated on what route Lupe ought to take back to the Dalton Highway from here?

**Peak 3878** (L) and **Minnie Creek Lake**. Photo looks W.

2 viable options seemed to make sense. Proceed to Minnie Creek Lake, then NW down the Over Creek valley, or up and over Peak 3286.

Any preference, Loop?

Which is easiest, SPHP?

Probably Minnie Creek Lake, Looper. Downhill all the way, whereas we’d have to climb more than 700 feet to get over Peak 3286. Of course, Peak 3286 could be sort of a consolation prize for not having made it to Poss Mountain. Not a comparable peak at all, but it’s something.

I’m feeling more energetic after this nap, SPHP. Let’s climb Peak 3286. After all, we came to climb mountains!

From the dazzling hill overlooking Minnie Creek Lake, Lupe roamed freely down a vast slope toward an enormously broad saddle leading to Peak 3286. The last part of this journey was thick with spongy tundra. The saddle itself proved tussocky, always difficult terrain.

After crossing the boggy tussocks, Lupe made her escape. Starting her ascent of Peak 3286, she began climbing a steeper slope covered with bushes chest high on SPHP. These bushes would have been trouble, if not for a maze of open lanes among them. Thus saved from any serious bushwhacking, progress was decent as Lupe continued higher.

Heading down to the tussocky saddle. **Peak 3286** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

Among the colorful bushes. **Peak 3286** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

Regaining nearly 200 feet of elevation, the American Dingo reached a nearly level region of tundra and far fewer bushes. Aiming W of cliffs along Peak 3286’s upper SE face, Lupe quickly crossed this plain, and started up the next slope full of bushes, which was dotted with trees.

During a final glance back at Minnie Creek Lake, Peak 5400 was starting to disappear from view.

Crossing the tundra plain. **Peak 3286** (R). Photo looks NNW.

A last glance back at **Minnie Creek Lake** (R). **Peak 5400** (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.

I knew Poss Mountain has just been taunting us today, Loopster! Look at that! The weather is going to pot on us. We better hustle!

As the slope steadily steepened during the ascent to Peak 3286’s W ridge, hustling was easier said than done. More lanes among the bushes here helped again, but SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air.

The sky was leaden, the air heavy with humidity, as Lupe reached the base of a line of small cliffs. Forcing her way through extraordinarily dense vegetation, the Carolina Dog managed to traverse 50 feet E to where a break in the cliffs permitted a 30 foot scramble above them.

No obstacles up here! Instead, a broad, featureless, maroon and brown tundra plain rose gradually NE.

On the **Peak 3286 summit plain**. Photo looks NE.

Hurry, Loopster! Let’s tag the summit before the rain hits! Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-22-22, 2:07 PM, Peak 3286 – It was only 400 feet to the summit, a 100 foot long nearly flat region on the brink of SSE facing cliffs. Opposite the cliffs, a gently rounded slope began gradually dropping away.

Happily, Lupe had arrived just in time to spend a few precious minutes enjoying the views. Beneath the threatening sky, the entire incredible world she’d spent the last 3 days exploring was on display.

**Peak 3286 summit**. **Peak 5400** (L), **Peak 3878** (R). Photo looks SSW.

To the SE, Poss Mountain’s elusive summit was back in the clouds again, but Lupe could see her beloved 4,000+ foot ridge where the tiny house had been, and she’d had such a fun time yesterday in a land of mist and rain where pikas, marmots, and a lone mountain goat lived.

**Poss Mountain** (L), **Peak 5500** (R) from **Peak 3286**. Photo looks SE.

A glance at the steep alder-infested slope below HP3400 across the deep Nugget Creek valley made perfectly clear why Lupe’s repeated attempts to traverse it 2 days ago had all been doomed to failure from the start. HP3400 and Peak 3780, both of which she’d ultimately visited, were in sight high above it.

**Peak 3780** (L) beyond the **Nugget Creek valley**, **Poss Mountain** (R). Photo looks E.

Our first backpacking trip ever in Alaska has been amazing, hasn’t it, SPHP?

Yes! Absolutely, Loop, but I’m sorry, we can’t stay here.

Five minutes after arriving at Peak 3286’s summit, scattered raindrops were already starting to fall. SPHP put on the new, red rain jacket, hood and all.

Cripes! How do you even tighten this hood? Never used it before.

Don’t ask me, SPHP, and don’t complain! I’m going to get soaked, aren’t I?

Afraid so, sweet puppy! Well, never mind the hood. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Raindrops were falling thick and fast as Lupe started down Peak 3286’s NNW slope.

About to head down. **Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River**, **Alaska oil pipeline**, and **Dalton Highway** (L). **Sukakpak Mountain** (R) and **Dillon Mountain** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

The terrain rapidly steepened. For a long way, a lip was always ahead, an indication of even steeper ground to come. Looked like Lupe would cliff out, but having seen this side of the mountain before, SPHP knew she wouldn’t.

As though sent by Poss Mountain, an E wind sprang up. In a driving, heavy rain, poor Lupe got soaked to the bone. The hood kept blowing off SPHP, but the red rain jacket otherwise did it’s job. Never complaining, Lupe led the way on thick tundra, which made the descent easier.

Head for that upside down gingerbread man, Looper! That’s the old, long abandoned construction camp where we stayed 3 nights ago.

On the brink of the steep descent. **Peak 3470** (L), **construction camp** (L of Center), **Nugget Creek** (R). Photo looks NW.

At last, the whole runout slope was visible below. The rate of descent slowly decreased. Once low enough, the going got easier, although the construction camp Lupe was aiming for was no longer in sight.

The runout slope appears below. **Peak 3470** (L), **Nugget Creek** (R). Photo looks NW.

Safely down, the adventure continues! **Peak 3470** (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.

Still more than a mile to the old construction camp! Loopster braved tussocks and forests. She crossed a weird ravine full of mud and brown grass. Impenetrable dense thickets of alders were to the R (NE) along Nugget Creek, which was close enough to be heard, but never seen. The American Dingo discovered a trail through sopping wet bushes head high on SPHP.

A 2 track road finally appeared off to the R. Going to it, 300 feet along the road got Lupe to the abandoned construction camp. Nothing to it now! The rain and wind had ended a little while ago. Continuing NW, Lupe headed for Peak 3470 looming ahead.

**Peak 3470** (Center) from the long abandoned construction camp. Photo looks NW.

Before getting to the Dalton Highway, Lupe looked back one more time. There in the distance beyond the Nugget Creek valley gap between Peak 3780 and Peak 3286, the lower slopes of Poss Mountain were visible, the summit still hidden in clouds.

**Peak 3780** (L), **Poss Mountain** (Center), **Peak 3286** (R). Photo looks SE.

8-22-22, 4:40 PM, 43ºF – Scarcely any traffic on the Dalton Highway as Lupe trotted the last 0.25 mile NE. Once back to the RAV4 parked at the side road just N of Nugget Creek, she hopped up onto her pink blanket, eagerly awaiting dinner since supplies had completely run out during the return.

SPHP threw another blanket over the thoroughly drenched Carolina Dog to help warm her up, then produced a dinner of beef stew, Ritz crackers, cheese, and a whole bag of Fritos.

Nothing but health food again, Loop! Enjoy!

Although denied at Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.), Lupe’s fabulous day in the mists and fog at high camp up on the 4,000+ foot ridge only a mile W of the summit would always be fondly remembered. The American Dingo had climbed both Peak 3780 and Peak 3286 on her first backpacking trip in Alaska, too!

We had a blast! Don’t give up on Poss Mountain, SPHP! Let’s come back on a sunnier day, and try again. We can explore Minnie Creek Lake, and climb Peak 3878!

Continuing N tomorrow, Loopster, but, yeah, why not give Poss another shot sometime? I’m game! In fact, we’ll be coming back this way before this Dingo Vacation is over. Maybe we can try it then?

Oh, I hope so, SPHP! Bet that mountain goat on Peak 5500 will sure be surprised to see me again, won’t he?