Dingo Vacations – Page 134 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-26-14)

The Iceline Trail above tree line high up on the south side of Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada features tremendous views of glaciers, 260 meter high (850 feet) Takakkaw Falls from across Yoho Valley, and a splendid assortment of impressive peaks of the rugged Canadian Rockies. Lupe and SPHP both strongly recommend this wonderful medium to long day hike. Be prepared for plenty of company on pleasant days. The Iceline Trail is deservedly very popular.

On this day’s hike Lupe and SPHP started from the Takakkaw Falls parking lot off Yoho Valley Road. The Yoho Valley Road is accessed from Trans-Canada Hwy 1 a few miles NE of the little community of Field along the Kicking Horse River. Yoho Valley Road is paved, but has a couple of exceptionally sharp hairpin curves. Taking long vehicles (motorhomes, trailers) up this road is inadvisable.

A mist hung in the air when Lupe arrived at the Takakkaw Falls parking lot around 8:30 AM. Temps were already comfortably into the 40’s F. Lupe headed N on the Yoho Valley Trail and was soon out of the mist. Away from the mist of the falls, the sun was shining in a brilliant blue sky between puffy white clouds and quickly warmed things up.

The Yoho Valley Trail starts in the forest, comes out into a bit of open rocky ground, and then disappears into the forest again as it heads up the Yoho River valley. Although the trail parallels the river, it is far enough W of it so that the river is seldom visible.

Lupe near Laughing Falls on the Little Yoho River.

Lupe stopped by Laughing Falls for a couple of photos. Not far beyond Laughing Falls she took the Little Yoho Valley Trail heading W in the direction of the Stanley Mitchell hut. This trail climbed through the forest much more steeply with numerous switchbacks. Lupe passed the Marpole Lake Trail and before too long again came upon the gorgeous icy blue Little Yoho River. A short hike in the forest above and along the river brought Lupe to the Celeste Lake Trail, which crossed the Little Yoho River via a good bridge.

Lupe takes a look at Celeste Lake in Yoho National Park, Canada.

Across the river, the Celeste Lake Trail headed SW towards Celeste Lake. The Celeste Lake Trail continued climbing, but without many switchbacks. Celeste Lake proved to be a pretty emerald green color and a larger lake than it first appeared. It had two parts to it hidden from each other by a peninsula jutting out into the lake. The trail passed just E of Celeste Lake and offered some nice views of it. Once past Celeste Lake, the trail turned to the SW again and continued climbing.

Along the Celeste Lake Trail above Celeste Lake.

Eventually the Celeste Lake trail turned NW as it started to get near tree line. Soon it took another turn to the SW where the trail left the forest and came out into a fairly level area of green meadows full of wildflowers. Thin forests rimmed the meadows. Just beyond and above them to the W were huge piles of loose tan rocks below the solid rock and glacier-covered slopes of The Vice President (10,095 ft.).

The trail headed down a bit into the meadow, turned NW again, and working its way to the W edge of the meadow reached the base of the loose rock piles. From there the trail headed SSW steadily climbing the rock piles. Before long it turned W and reached the intersection with the Iceline Trail.

Down along the Yoho Valley Trail there had been some hikers, but along the Little Yoho Valley and Celeste Lake Trails there had been very few. There were hordes of people along the Iceline Trail though. Among the throng Lupe met a 74 year old man from San Diego whom she had seen twice before in the past day or two. He was quite friendly and had suggested the Sherbrooke Lake trail the previous day, which Lupe had taken.

This man had left San Diego in April or May and was traveling (apparently alone) in his RV and hiking trails all over the western USA and Canada. He said he wouldn’t head back to San Diego until November. (Now that is a mighty fine way to spend half a year!) SPHP dawdled along the trail chatting with this interesting gentleman, but never had the presence of mind to get any contact information from him. While Lupe waited for the conversation to end, at least other doggies came along the Iceline Trail for Lupe to sniff with.

Lupe on the rock pile which is the high point along the Iceline Trail. Mt. McArthur (center left) and Isolation Peak (center right) are separated by a huge snow/ice field. — Lupe on the rock pile which is the high point along the Iceline Trail. **Mt. McArthur** **(9,911 ft.)** (center left) and **Isolated Peak (9,262 ft.)** (center right) are separated by a huge snow/ice field. The Little Yoho River valley is also in view.

The high point along the Iceline Trail was not far to the N from the intersection with the Celeste Lake Trail. A relatively short walk took Lupe over there. A spur of the Iceline Trail climbs up on a tall pile of loose rock a short distance to the E of the main trail. This tall rock pile was Lupe’s goal for the day and she was soon there. A few people were up there when she arrived and more kept coming and going. Lupe rested, had some Taste of the Wild, plenty of water, and relaxed while snapping at a few annoying flies.

View to the S from the Iceline Trail towards the mountains in the O'Hara Lake and Lake Louise region. — View to the S from the Iceline Trail towards the mountains in the Lake O’Hara and Lake Louise region.

Mt. Balfour (center)looms above Trolltinder Mountain (lower left). — **Mt. Balfour (10,774 ft.)** (center) looms above **Trolltinder Mountain** **(9,554 ft.)** (sharp peak below and to the left).

The views from the high point were splendid in every direction. Immediately to the W were The Vice President and The President (10,246 ft.) although their summits were out of line of sight. To the N across Little Yoho Valley were Mt. McArthur, Isolated Peak, and Whaleback Mountain (8,586 ft.). To the E across Yoho Valley were Mount Balfour, Trolltinder Mountain, Lilliput Mountain (9,449 ft.), Mount Daly (10,039 ft.) and Mount Niles (9,751 ft.).

Parts of the Emerald Glacier, Yoho Glacier and Daly Glacier were in view plus many other snow and ice fields clinging to the mountains. To the S down the Yoho River valley and across the Kicking Horse River Valley were the high snow-capped peaks W of Lake Louise and Lake O’Hara.

Mt. Daly, Nigel Peak and Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada — Mt. Daly (left center), Mt. Niles (right center) and Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada. The Daly Glacier (far left), part of the Waputik Icefield, feeds Takakkaw Falls.

Lupe stayed at the high point enjoying the views for at least an hour, while others came and went. Sometime between 3:00 PM and 4:00 PM, it was time to head back down.

On the way back, Lupe took the most direct route back to Takakkaw Falls, which was to follow the Iceline Trail past the Celeste Lake Trail and Ridgeline Trail (which goes to Yoho Lake). Instead, she just headed straight on down a steep trail with many switchbacks that leads to the Whiskey Jack Creek area, and the hostel near Yoho Valley Road. Lupe was back to the Takakkaw Falls parking lot before 6:00 PM. Another day well spent in the Canadian Rockies!

Takakkaw Falls and the Yoho River, Yoho National Park, Canada

In July, 2013, Lupe had previously reached the Iceline Trail high point via another route, approaching from Emerald Lake and Yoho Lake. Click here to see Lupe’s post on that adventure!

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Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

Emerald Lake, Yoho Lake & the Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-24-13)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2014 Canadian Rockies & Beartooths Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

An easy side hike SW from the high point on the Wilcox Pass Trail is the edge of a ridge featuring the most splendid panoramic snow-covered mountain and glacier view Lupe and SPHP have ever seen anywhere. Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, and Mt. Kitchener are on display in all their frozen glory. Although basically the same scene can be seen from down along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the view is even better from 1,400 feet above and well worth the effort.

The Wilcox Pass trailhead is located just E of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 along the gravel road that leads to the Wilcox Creek campground. The turnoff is just a mile or two N of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass, and just a couple miles S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

The spectacular view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass — The spectacular view of **Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.)**, **Mt. Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** and the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass.

Lupe arrived at the Wilcox Pass trailhead on 7-29-14 less than 10 minutes after having just completed a wonderful short day hike to Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier. It was 12:06 PM, 72 degrees F, with totally clear skies and a dead calm when Lupe set out up the Wilcox Pass trail.

The trail starts out climbing steadily at a pretty good clip through a conifer forest. This is deservedly a very popular hike and there were lots of people hiking the trail. For the first third or more of the roughly 4 km to the top of Wilcox Pass, the trail is climbing through the forest with only glimpses of the spectacular scenery nearby.

Lupe and the view toward Snow Dome & Mt. Kitchener. 7-29-14 — Lupe and the view toward **Snow Dome** **(11,483 ft.)** & **Mt. Kitchener** **(11,417 ft.)** (R). 7-29-14

The first really good look at the fantastic scene to the SW comes at a rock ledge just a few feet off the trail shortly before the trail emerges from the forest. From the ledge you get a clear view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener.

Lupe only stopped here for a few minutes before continuing on. From this 1st viewpoint, the trail climbs at a slower pace and soon emerges from the forest. Scattered clumps of trees are still around, but the area is mostly open so most of the time the view to the SW is unobstructed.

The Athabasca Glacier flows down from the 325 square kilometer Columbia Icefield, the largest icefield in the Rocky Mountains of North America.

After almost completely leveling out, the trail, which has been heading NW, takes a jog more to the N for a rather steep stretch of climbing until it gets completely above tree line. Gradually the rate of ascent decreases as the trail turns back more to the NW once again. Shortly before reaching the high point on Wilcox Pass, Lupe came to a nice creek where she cooled off and got a drink.

The Wilcox Pass area in Jasper National Park, Canada. Mt. Athabasca (L) and Mt. Andromeda (R).

From the high point on Wilcox Pass, the trail continues NW over a broad, open, gently sloping area between Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) to the SW and a large rocky ridge to the NE extending out from Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.). If followed beyond the pass, the trail eventually leads down to the Tangle Creek area.

This view of the Wilcox Pass area looks NW in the direction of Tangle Creek.

However, the spectacular panoramic view Lupe had come to see, was not in the direction of Tangle Creek. Instead, Lupe turned SW at Wilcox Pass and followed an unmaintained trail which climbed a little bit before reaching the edge of a ridge 1,400 feet above the Icefields Centre. Here Lupe stopped to rest and survey the breathtaking scene.

Lupe and SPHP spent a long time gazing out at Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, and Mt. Kitchener. The Icefields Centre, the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, and the parking lot for the hike to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier were all in view, too. Special buses designed for glacier tours were crawling slowly like little black caterpillars up towards and onto the Athabasca Glacier. A portion of the huge Columbia Icefield from which the Athabasca Glacier descends loomed above the glacier.

P1050381 — Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda & the Athabasca Glacier. 7-29-14

Lupe and SPHP spent quite a bit of time at this glorious viewpoint. Lupe had some water, some Taste of the Wild and posed for photos. She soon spotted a strange creature she had never seen before coming towards her from the southern end of the Wilcox Peak area to the NNW. It was a large mountain goat! Lupe watched intently, but silently, as the mountain goat strolled very calmly on by heading SE. The mountain goat seemed completely unfazed by Lupe’s presence and eventually disappeared over a little ridge.

This large mountain goat approached from Mt. Wilcox. Lupe watched in amazement, but did not even bark. 7-29-14 — The large mountain goat approaching from Mt. Wilcox. Lupe watched in amazement, but did not even bark. 7-29-14

When it was finally time to leave this most glorious viewpoint, Lupe headed a little way up towards Wilcox Peak to see if a view of the huge Sunwapta River valley heading NW and the mountains beyond it could be easily reached. Reaching the spine of the ridge coming down from Wilcox Peak, Lupe saw that only a partial view was possible in that direction without a considerable further climb. Instead of doing that, Lupe headed ESE back down towards the country to the NW of the Wilcox Pass high point.

Lupe near Wilcox Pass. Athabasca Glacier and Snow Dome beyond her.

A new goal was in SPHP’s mind, and that was to go see Wilcox Lake, which is tucked in a cirque to the NW of Nigel Peak. Lupe crossed over to the NE side of the Wilcox Pass area. To get to Wilcox Lake, it was necessary to climb over a large ridge extending NW from Nigel Peak.

SPHP studied the ridge as Lupe approached it, looking for the best route up and over, without having to do too much climbing. Selecting a likely route that appeared to have some sort of trail leading up it, Lupe and SPHP were soon climbing up the ridge, which seemed quite a bit higher than it had looked like from afar.

P1050368 — Lupe, Mt. Athabasca (L) and Mt. Andromeda (R) from near Wilcox Pass.

The main problem though, was that the ridge consisted of extremely sharp rocks. SPHP began to worry that Lupe would cut up the pads on her paws on the jumble of extremely sharp rocks. Lupe did get to the spine of the ridge, but the view on the other side to the SE in the direction of Nigel Peak was discouraging. Wilcox Lake was nowhere in sight. A beautiful, but very barren rocky terrain lay in the direction where Wilcox Lake had to be.

If the rocks hadn’t been so sharp, Lupe would have pressed on to Wilcox Lake. However SPHP didn’t want her paws to get cut up and gave up on the idea of reaching the lake. SPHP now made an error in judgment. (Not exactly the first time!) Instead of just going back down the steep scree slope Lupe had just climbed, SPHP led her NW down a more gradual slope that looked like it would be an easier route down. Unfortunately, the sharp rocks continued in that direction too, and it proved to be quite a long hike NW before an easy way down off the ridge presented itself.

P1050375 — Lupe, Snow Dome & Mt. Kitchener from near Wilcox Pass. 7-29-14

Once back down on the heather, it was an easy matter to hike back to Wilcox Pass. Lupe drank from streams, and cooled off in shallow ponds on the way. Amazingly, the pads on her paws looked just fine after all those sharp rocks, and she showed no signs of discomfort. Quite the contrary, Lupe was full of energy and rambunctious.

It was now getting later in the day and most people had already left the Wilcox Pass area, although the sun was still well up in the sky. A few puffy white clouds were drifting by in a sea of blue. On this beautiful and amazingly warm early evening, Lupe started heading back across the open heather. She passed well to the E of the high point on the Wilcox Pass trail, but eventually worked her way back to the trail for the hike back down.

It was 6:58 PM and still 75 degrees F when Lupe reached the trailhead again. Lupe had been gone almost 7 hours, but had spent several extra hours enjoying the most glorious viewpoint and on her unsuccessful exploration up to the ridge in the direction of Wilcox Lake.

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Parker Ridge Trail & the Saskatchewan Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-29-14)

This is SPHP’s favorite short day hike in the Canadian Rockies! If you only have a couple of hours to spend while in the area (simply tragic!), this is the hike to take. The Parker Ridge trailhead is located 2.5 miles S of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass. The trailhead is at a small parking lot immediately adjacent to the southbound side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe set off from the trailhead at 9:43 AM on this clear, calm day. The temperature was already a very pleasant 63 degrees F. The 2.7 km trail to the top of Parker Ridge starts out just below tree line. It immediately starts to switchback up the ridge through a scattered forest of small conifers. The trail climbs steadily the entire way at a pretty easy pace, rising above tree line about halfway up. Total elevation gain is about 250 meters (820 feet).

Lupe on Parker Ridge, Banff NP, Canada, on 7-29-14. This photo looks E down the canyon and away from the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Once the trail reaches the crest of Parker Ridge, it continues a short distance to a series of viewpoints along the steep edge of the huge valley to the S. While the scenery is gorgeous in all directions, the main attraction is the spectacular view of the Saskatchewan Glacier flowing down into this valley from the Columbia Icefield. Continuing along the trail just a short distance heading E, away from the glacier, actually gets you to the best views of the glacier due to the curvature of the valley and topography of Parker Ridge.

Although the views are gorgeous in all directions, the main attraction on Parker Ridge is the view of the Saskatchewan Glacier. — Although the views are gorgeous in all directions, the main attraction on Parker Ridge is the fabulous view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Lupe, of course, was very cooperative in posing for a few photos with the Saskatchewan glacier. She stayed up on Parker Ridge quite a while enjoying the fabulous scenery and keeping a sharp eye out for marmots. Although there had been only a few vehicles at the trailhead when Lupe started out, before long people started arriving in droves. When Lupe got back to the trailhead just before noon, the parking lot along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 was nearly full.

P1050358 — Lupe on Parker Ridge, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada on 7-29-14

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Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Center & the Athabasca Glacier, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-13)