Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 177 – Duling Hill & Iron Mountain (10-10-16)

You awake, Loop?  I’m not sleepy either.  What time is it, anyway?  Ugh, still early.  Want to go out and sniff the air for a few minutes?  She did.

Lupe in the G6 early on 10-10-16. The G6 said it was 5:11 AM, 38ºF.

The moon had set hours ago.  Overhead, Orion was shining brilliantly in the starry night sky.  Nights were already getting long this time of year.  It would be at least another hour until dawn.  Lupe sniffed around in the quiet darkness for 15 minutes.  Then it was back in the G6 to try to get a little more shuteye.

The next time SPHP came to, it was light out.  The sun was already shining on the treetops.  Lupe was wide awake, looking out the window, watching.  The American Dingo was anxious to get out and start her next Black Hills, WY adventure!  OK, Loopster, it’s time, past time really, let’s go!

Duling Hill (6,005 ft.) was Lupe’s first peakbagging objective of the day.  Lupe and SPHP followed USFS Road No. 872.3 a short distance WSW to the “Y” with No. 872.1F.  Lupe turned S on No. 872.1F and promptly arrived at a big canvas tent in the forest just off the road.

Lupe discovered this big canvas tent off USFS Road No. 872.1F. No one was around when she arrived.

The big canvas tent was a rather unusual discovery.  No one was around when Lupe arrived, but there was a big stack of logs outside ready for splitting into firewood.  Evidently there was some kind of stove in the tent.  A long black smokestack leaned out of a hole in the roof.

Someone had gone to considerable trouble to establish this semi-permanent looking camp.  Lupe sniffed around the tent, but there were no windows.  The front door was all zipped and tied shut.  Interesting, but best to leave it alone.  Lupe and SPHP continued SSW on USFS Road No. 872.1F.

Near a high point, Lupe and SPHP left the road to climb up onto a forested ridge to the W.  It wasn’t much of a climb, but SPHP soon caught a glimpse of a high hill about 1.5 miles away to the SW.  That had to be Duling Hill.  No. 872.1F had been heading practically straight for it.

Lupe and SPHP cut back down a short steep slope to return to the road, which was now going SW down a valley.  Lupe had some luck and found a squirrel to bark at in a beautiful grove of golden aspens.

Lupe on USFS Road No. 872.1F. The happy Carolina Dog soon found a squirrel to bark at among the golden aspens. Photo looks SSW.

After an easy stroll down the wooded valley, Lupe reached a junction.  There was a big, round, tan, plastic water trough for cattle here, but it contained no water.  A grassy unmarked road branched off going SE up another small valley.  No. 872.1F turned W.

Lupe left the road, went past the water trough, and crossed a tiny, mucky stream.  She then started climbing S up Duling Hill.  The climb was steepest at the beginning, and soon became more gradual.  Everything was going fine when Lupe’s worries from yesterday suddenly returned.  Gunfire again!  Intermittent just like yesterday.  More target practice.

Up until now, Lupe had been all fired up, full of energy, roaming and racing through the hills.  Even though the gunfire was distant, it instantly made the Carolina Dog nervous and spoiled her fun.  She wanted to stop and hide.

SPHP found a fallen tree to sit on.  Lupe curled up next to the tree.  The Carolina Dog wanted to wait the gunfire out right here.  SPHP allowed her a short break.  No telling how long the gunfire would continue.  Yesterday afternoon it had persisted until after sundown.

Lupe was reluctant to get going again, but she wasn’t in any real danger.  It was time to move on.  The American Dingo stuck closely to SPHP.  Soon she was skirting the NW slope of High Point 5947 to reach the saddle over to the summit of Duling Hill.  The summit wasn’t much farther.  The old USFS map showed a survey benchmark at the top of Duling Hill, for some reason or other marked “Butte”.  SPHP wondered if Lupe would be able to find it.

As it turned out, the “Butte” survey benchmark was very easy to find.  Lupe went right to it.  A conspicuous cairn was built up around benchmark, right at what did appear to be the top of the mountain.  Next to the cairn was some old wire and a wooden cross fallen on the ground.  The summit area was quite large, nearly flat, and forested.  The forest was fairly open, but still effectively blocked the views.

The survey benchmark on Duling Hill did say "Butte", just like the old USFS map showed it would.
The survey benchmark on Duling Hill did say “Butte”, just like the old USFS map showed it would.

Lupe was still so nervous about the distant gunfire, she wanted to stay right next to SPHP.  Many attempts had to be made to persuade her to stay alone near the cairn long enough for a photo.

A very nervous Carolina Dog poses reluctantly at the summit cairn on Duling Hill. The distant, intermittent gunfire from someone just doing target practice kept her on edge. Photo looks NE.
A very nervous Carolina Dog poses reluctantly at the summit cairn on Duling Hill. The distant, intermittent gunfire from someone just doing target practice kept her on edge. Photo looks NE.
Looking ENE across part of the Duling Hill summit area.

Lupe and SPHP left the Duling Hill summit wandering WNW across a broad area that sloped down only slightly.  The hope was that Lupe would come to some viewpoints along the way.  Lupe did her best.  She found some partial views, but that was all Duling Hill had to offer.

Lupe found this narrow view of Inyan Kara Mountain from Duling Hill. Photo looks SW.
Inyan Kara Mountain (6,360 ft.) with help from the telephoto lens.
This was the clearest view of Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.) that Lupe found from Duling Hill. Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.
This was the clearest view of Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.) that Lupe found from Duling Hill. Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.
Iron Mountain, Lupe’s next peakbagging goal, is the forested hill in the foreground. Far away on the horizon, Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.) can be seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Once Lupe’s exploration of the W end of Duling Hill was complete, she headed almost straight N down a long ridge.  The ridge became quite narrow as Lupe lost elevation.  More than half way down, Lupe discovered bones strewn about a small level spot.  Some wild animal had met its fate here.  It must have happened quite a while ago.  The scattered bones were totally bare.

Lupe discovered these bones on the narrow N ridge coming down Duling Hill.
Lupe discovered these bones on the narrow N ridge coming down Duling Hill.

After following the N ridge down from Duling Hill for 0.75 mile, Lupe entered a wide valley of open meadows.  A bright yellow stand of aspens was on display.  Off to the NW was a clear view of Iron Mountain (5,887 ft.), the forested ridge that was Lupe’s next peakbagging goal.

A stand of yellow aspens greeted Lupe in the valley at the lower end of the N ridge from Duling Hill. Photo looks NE.
A stand of yellow aspens greeted Lupe in the valley at the lower end of the N ridge from Duling Hill. Photo looks NE.
Iron Mountain, the long forested ridge seen here, was Lupe's next peakbagging goal. Photo looks NW.
Iron Mountain, the long forested ridge seen here, was Lupe’s next peakbagging goal. Photo looks NW.

Iron Mountain was less than a mile away to the NW.  However, small bands of cliffs were visible along the S and SE slopes.  The mountain looked like it could be much more easily approached from the NE than the SE.  Lupe traveled N through the valley, looking for the easiest way up Iron Mountain.  Along the way, she passed a stock pond.

Apparently the stock pond was fed by the tiny stream Lupe had crossed before beginning her ascent of Duling Hill.  The trickle of flow was enough to keep the stock pond from going dry even this late in the season.  The stock pond was kind of a scenic spot, in addition to a source of water for wildlife.

Lupe on her way past a scenic little stock pond SE of Iron Mountain. Photo looks NE.
Lupe on her way past a scenic little stock pond SE of Iron Mountain. Photo looks NE.

N of the stock pond, Lupe came to a dirt road.  It was unmarked, but was probably some branch of USFS Road No. 882.  Lupe followed this road only a short distance, then crossed to the other side and followed a single track trail closer to Iron Mountain.  It lead to another road, which was grassy and climbed at an easy pace, winding its way N.

The grassy road took Lupe to a pass NE of Iron Mountain where there was an intersection.  A road marked as USFS Road No. 882.1B went W from the pass, and looked like it was about to turn SW to go up Iron Mountain.  Perfect!

Lupe followed No. 882.1B.  She was feeling better again.  Sometime after she had left the stock pond, target practice had ceased.  No more gunfire!  Lupe was regaining her confidence.  Life is always better when you don’t have to worry about being gunned down!

No. 882.1B brought Lupe high up on the E slope of Iron Mountain, but did not go to the top.  Instead, it turned S, paralleling the ridgeline.  Lupe and SPHP left the road to finish the easy climb through open forest.  Lupe only needed to gain another 70 feet of elevation or so to reach the N end of the summit ridge.

From a distance, Iron Mountain had looked quite densely forested.  SPHP was surprised when Lupe found a flat grassy field at the N end of the ridge.  The meadow was ringed by trees, explaining why this bare spot hadn’t been visible from a distance.  At the N end was a small opening between trees.  Lupe had a clear view of Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.) from here.

To SPHP's surprise, Lupe discovered a meadow up at the N end of the Iron Mountain summit ridge. Later on, SPHP found out that topo maps show this part of the mountain as the true summit. Photo looks NNW.
To SPHP’s surprise, Lupe discovered a meadow up at the N end of the Iron Mountain summit ridge. Later on, SPHP found out that topo maps show this part of the mountain as the true summit. Photo looks NNW.
The lookout tower on Warren Peaks (Center) can be seen in this photo taken from the N end of the summit ridge of Iron Mountain. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
The lookout tower on Warren Peaks (Center) can be seen in this photo taken from the N end of the summit ridge of Iron Mountain. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

The summit ridge on Iron Mountain was quite broad E/W, and ran N/S for a good 500 to 600 feet.  To the E, the ground sloped away at a moderate pace.  To the W was a line of limestone (Why not iron for Pete’s sake?  This is Iron Mountain, not Limestone Mountain!) cliffs.  The cliffs were on the order of 30 to 40 feet high.

Looking farther W into Wyoming from the cliffs along the summit ridge on Iron Mountain. Hwy 585 can be seen below.
Looking farther W into Wyoming from the cliffs along the summit ridge on Iron Mountain. Hwy 585 can be seen below.
Up on the limestone cliffs along the W edge of the Iron Mountain summit ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Hope you got that shot of the cliff, SPHP. I’m outta here!

The highest part of the summit ridge near the limestone cliffs was nearly level for quite a distance going S from the N end of the ridge.  Lupe and SPHP headed S exploring the ridgeline.  Although SPHP later discovered that topo maps show the true summit of Iron Mountain very close to the N end of the mountain, there was an area 150 feet farther S that seemed a little higher to SPHP.

This more southern high point was certainly more scenic.  It was forested and shady, but right next to the cliffs where there was with an opening between the trees permitting a look at Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.).  Lupe declared it the official true summit of Iron Mountain as far as she was concerned, by posing on the highest rock she could find.

Standing atop the highest rock Lupe could find at her official true summit of Iron Mountain. Unseen just beyond her is a 40 foot cliff. Inyan Kara is seen on the horizon.

Inyan Kara as seen from Iron Mountain. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.
Inyan Kara as seen from Iron Mountain. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP went S along the Iron Mountain ridgeline far enough to be absolutely certain the Carolina Dog had visited the true summit.  Then Lupe turned around and went back to the N end of the ridge one more time.  Lupe’s explorations of Iron Mountain were complete.  So were all of her peakbagging goals in this remote part of the Black Hills.  It was time to head back to the G6.

Lupe returned to USFS Road No. 882.1B, following it NE back down Iron Mountain.  She left the road a couple of times to take a look around from two different viewpoints along the way.  Far below to the SE, she saw the stock pond she had passed by earlier.  To the N was Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.), which she had climbed as the sun set yesterday.

On her way down Iron Mountain, Lupe saw the stock pond she had passed by earlier in the day. Photo looks SE.
On her way down Iron Mountain, Lupe saw the stock pond she had passed by earlier in the day. Photo looks SE.
Hooker Peak as seen from the NE slopes of Iron Mountain. Lupe had been up on top of Hooker Peak yesterday at sunset! Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.
Hooker Peak as seen from the NE slopes of Iron Mountain. Lupe had been up on top of Hooker Peak yesterday at sunset! Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.

When Lupe reached the pass NE of Iron Mountain at the start of USFS Road No. 882.1B, it would have been very easy to get back to the G6 by taking the road going N from the pass.  That road would soon have turned E and headed almost directly to the G6.  However, SPHP didn’t look at the maps and guessed wrong, taking a road winding SE instead.

Pretty soon it became apparent that the road going SE would eventually lead Lupe right back to the stock pond.  It seemed like the long way around.  SPHP now compounded the first error by making another one.  SPHP left the road taking Lupe NE up a side valley, expecting to find a pass over the ridge.

There was a pass, alright, but much higher up than SPHP expected.  Lupe climbed until she was nearly up to High Point 5783.  She then lost all her elevation gains going E down a steep slope to a road visible below.  SPHP didn’t recognize the road, but Lupe had been here before, just hours ago.  She was back on No. 872.1F, but following the road the wrong way, away from the G6!

Even when Lupe passed by the same stand of golden aspens along USFS Road No. 872.1F where she had found the squirrel early in the morning, SPHP didn't realize where she was, or that she was going the wrong way!
Even when Lupe passed by the same stand of golden aspens along USFS Road No. 872.1F where she had found the squirrel early in the morning, SPHP didn’t realize where she was, or that she was going the wrong way!
Although Lupe and SPHP went the wrong way on USFS Road No. 872.1F, seeing fall colors like these a second time around could hardly be considered a waste of time.

When the big, round, tan water trough came into view, SPHP realized Lupe was back at the tiny stream where she had started her climb up Duling Hill.  Good grief!  SPHP had been leading the American Dingo the wrong way!  Lupe didn’t mind.  She was still having fun.

There was nothing to do about it, except turn around and traipse right back up USFS Road No. 872.1F for the third time today, this time going uphill.  Lupe reached the little pass at the high point on the road, passed by the canvas tent (which was still vacant), and finally arrived at the G6 (1:51 PM, 71°F).

Well, all those navigation mistakes SPHP had made since leaving Iron Mountain had chewed up at least an hour.  It was too bad.  SPHP had been thinking Lupe might travel farther N to the portion of the Black Hills N of Sundance, WY known as the Bear Lodge Mountains.  It would take time to get there, though.  Now, Lupe would arrive with only a few hours left before sunset.

And so, the decision was made to call it for the day.  Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 177 was over.  Lupe and SPHP headed for home.  Lupe had achieved her original peakbagging goals for her two day excursion to this part of the Black Hills in Wyoming.  It wouldn’t be that long before she could return to explore peaks in the Bear Lodge Mountains.

In the meantime, the Carolina Dog was very happy barking at cows and horses along Moskee Road and I90 all the way home.

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The Athabasca Glacier & Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Canada (8-3-16)

Day 5 (Part 1) of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

After midnight, Lupe heard rain.  Always light, never heavy, but steady.  SPHP hoped there would be new snow on the mountains in the morning.  Morning came.  No such luck.  The night hadn’t been quite cold enough.  Even if there had been new snow, Lupe might not have seen it.  The mountaintops remained shrouded by clouds and mist.

In early morning mist and light rain, Lupe and SPHP explored along the shore of Bow Lake from the picnic ground to where Lupe could see the toe of the Crowfoot Glacier.  The toe was the only part of the glacier not lost in the clouds.

Only the toe of the Crowfoot Glacier was visible from the shore of Bow Lake with the mountaintops shrouded in fog and mist. Photo looks S using the telephoto lens.

A visit to the Athabasca Glacier, and a trek up to Wilcox Pass were on Lupe’s agenda for the day.  Unfortunately, both would be pointless in this weather.  All the glorious sights would be hidden from view.

The American Dingo had been to Wilcox Pass twice before, on both her 2013 & 2014 Dingo Vacations.  The views from the overlook toward the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks were the most spectacular Lupe had seen anywhere in the Canadian Rockies.  Missing out on Wilcox Pass would be simply tragic!

Nothing we can do, Loop, but head N and see what conditions are like when we get there!  Maybe these clouds will burn off or move out by then.

Nothing had really changed, though, by the time Lupe and SPHP drove over Sunwapta Pass into Jasper National Park.  The sky was still completely overcast, the mountaintops hidden from view.  Light rain fell intermittently.  It didn’t look like Wilcox Pass was in the cards at all.

Surprisingly, most of the Athabasca Glacier could be seen beneath the clouds.  Lupe could still take the little hike up toward the toe of the glacier.

At the start of the trail to the Athabasca Glacier. The glacier comes into view from the top of the low ridge seen beyond Lupe. Years ago it was possible to walk right up onto the glacier, but now authorities have roped off the last part of the approach supposedly due to public safety concerns.
Near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SW.
As close to the Athabasca Glacier as Lupe was allowed to go. Meltwaters seen below the toe of the glacier are the headwaters of the Sunwapta River. Photo looks SW.
A look at the upper end of the Athabasca Glacier using the telephoto lens. Unseen above is the Columbia Icefield from which the glacier flows. The Columbia Icefield is the largest in icefield in North America, covering about 125 square miles.
A look at the upper end of the Athabasca Glacier using the telephoto lens. Unseen above is the Columbia Icefield from which the glacier flows. The Columbia Icefield is the largest in icefield in North America, covering about 125 square miles.

The short hike to see the Athabasca Glacier didn’t take very long, but during that time, the rain virtually stopped.  Off to the N, SPHP noticed two tiny patches of blue sky.  That was all it took.  Once back at the G6, Lupe and SPHP drove S on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 a few miles to the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Only 3 vehicles were at the normally popular trailhead, an indication of how poor conditions had been to start the day.  Disappointingly, instead of growing as hoped, the tiny patches of blue sky had disappeared.  It was misting again.  The temperature was only in the 40’s (°F).

Lupe was undeterred.  The Carolina Dog was ready to hit the trail!  Another vehicle pulled into the trailhead as Lupe began her ascent to Wilcox Pass (10:00 AM).

The first part of the Wilcox Pass trail winds around in a forest while climbing steadily.  Shortly after crossing a wooden bridge over a steep slope, Lupe came to the first viewpoint.  Part of the Athabasca Glacier was in view, but clouds still clung to the mountains.

Lupe on the Wilcox Pass trail a little beyond the first viewpoint. Part of the Athabasca Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe on the Wilcox Pass trail a little beyond the first viewpoint. Part of the Athabasca Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Beyond the first viewpoint, the forest thinned quickly.  The trail was relatively level for a short distance, as it led along the edge of a ridge.  The Athabasca Glacier could now be seen most of the time.

The steepest part of the climb was next.  The trail turned away from the view and went up a big slope.  Lupe passed by scattered patches of stunted forest, and was soon above tree line.  Ominously, instead of clearing up, the sky was looking darker.  The mist was heavier than before.

Lupe wasn’t turning back now!  The hardest part of the climb was over.  The trek to Wilcox Pass was becoming progressively easier when, suddenly, Lupe stopped.  She had seen or sniffed something up on the slope above the trail!

A small herd of Bighorn sheep was resting on the tundra.  Lupe was fascinated.  She wanted to stay right here and watch.  Actually, she wanted to go trophy sheep hunting, but the leash prevented her from having too much fun.

Bighorn sheep near the Wilcox Pass trail. Lupe was fascinated! She would have liked to go trophy sheep hunting, but the leash spoiled her fun.

Bighorn sheep near Wilcox Pass, Jasper NP, Canada 8-3-16As Lupe watched Bighorn sheep, the mist turned to rain.  The few people who had come up to Wilcox Pass earlier in the day were now slogging past Lupe and SPHP on the way back down the trail.  The couple that had been following Lupe up turned around and retreated, too.

SPHP finally persuaded Lupe to press on, leaving the sheep to enjoy their solitude.  As Lupe neared Wilcox Pass, a chill wind drove the rain down more fiercely.  Lupe and SPHP were totally alone.  That was awesome!  The fresh breeze felt good, too, but the rain would have to let up pretty soon if Lupe was to remain up here for long.

In mist, wind, and rain, Lupe nears Wilcox Pass. Mount Wilcox is up ahead. Photo looks NW.
In mist, wind, and rain, Lupe nears Wilcox Pass. Mount Wilcox is up ahead. Photo looks NW.

Lupe made it to Wilcox Pass.  Conditions weren’t terrible, but they weren’t encouraging either.  The vast and lonely pass was beautiful and mysterious beneath the sullen sky.

Lupe at Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NW.
Lupe at Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NW.

The stupendous panoramic view that Lupe had come to see was at the end of a side trail to the SW, not right at Wilcox Pass itself.  Even though it appeared likely the view was going to be obscured by clouds and rain, Lupe and SPHP set off on the side trail.  The solitary hike over the forlorn, broken wild tundra might have to be its own reward.

Lupe up on one of the first little high points on the way to the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NNW at the broad empty expanse of Wilcox Pass. The main Wilcox Pass trail is seen beyond Lupe and to the R. Staying on the main trail would have taken Lupe over the pass and down to Tangle Creek.
Lupe up on one of the first little high points on the way to the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NNW at the broad empty expanse of Wilcox Pass. The main Wilcox Pass trail is seen beyond Lupe and to the R. Staying on the main trail would have taken Lupe over the pass and down to Tangle Creek.

The commanding, panoramic view of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks Lupe was on her way to see is perhaps 0.5 mile to 1.0 mile SW of the main trail at Wilcox Pass.  The trail to the viewpoint climbs several small ridges, and goes through a series of lower areas, too, on the way.  Lupe and SPHP made good progress to one of the higher ridges, where there was a large cairn.

It was still windy, but thankfully, the rain was starting to let up.  The clouds were lifting.  Lupe could now see the summit of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.).  Even better, off to the N was another patch of blue sky!  It was bigger than the tiny patches of blue sky SPHP had seen before.

Lupe on the ridge with the big cairn (not pictured). It was still windy, but the clouds had lifted enough so Lupe could see the top of Mount Wilcox. There was even a patch of blue sky! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe on the ridge with the big cairn (not pictured). It was still windy, but the clouds had lifted enough so Lupe could see the top of Mount Wilcox. There was even a patch of blue sky! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe on the ridge with the big cairn. Photo looks E at the huge W ridge of Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) on the E side of Wilcox Pass.
Lupe still on the ridge with the big cairn. Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 can be seen in the distance heading over Sunwapta Pass. Photo looks SE.

The weather continued improving as Lupe and SPHP followed the side trail SW.  The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast!

The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast! Photo looks NNW.
The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast! Photo looks NNW.
By the last little valley to be crossed on the way to the SW viewpoint. This ravine had a tiny stream in it. Sunwapta Pass is visible in the distance on the L. Photo looks SE.

The last little valley to be crossed before reaching the final ridge was narrow and had a tiny stream flowing through it.  Lupe crossed the stream and climbed up on the final ridge.  The whole ridgeline featured tremendous views.  Lupe and SPHP followed the trail NW to another big cairn.  This cairn appeared to be the end of the side trail, and a fantastic spot to take in the panoramic view.

Going a short distance SW down the slope from the cairn got Lupe out of the worst of the wind.  At first, clouds still obscured the mountains surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.  However, the now huge hole in the clouds near Mount Wilcox held out the promise of clearing skies and splendid scenes soon to come.  Lupe and SPHP got comfortable, and prepared to watch the big show.

Lupe reaches the viewpoint at the end of the side trail SW of Wilcox Pass. Clouds still hung around the Athabasca Glacier (L) and Snow Dome (R). Photo looks SW.
Mt. Athabasca (L) and Mt. Andromeda (Center) are in the clouds. The Icefield Centre and related facilities are seen 1400 feet lower down along Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Photo looks SW.
Lupe at the last big cairn at the end of the side trail leading SW from Wilcox Pass. The huge span of blue sky around Mount Wilcox was very encouraging! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe at the last big cairn at the end of the side trail leading SW from Wilcox Pass. The huge span of blue sky around Mount Wilcox was very encouraging! Photo looks NNW.
Taking a break trying to dry off and warm up while waiting for the big showy mountain and glacier display to begin! Photo looks SW.

Lupe had made it to the viewpoint just in time.  It was only a matter of a few minutes before blue sky started appearing over the Athabasca Glacier.  The summit of Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) was the first to be revealed.

The summit of Snow Dome was revealed as the big patch of blue sky passed over. Part of the Athabasca Glacier is visible along the L edge. Photo looks SW.
Lupe and Snow Dome. Photo looks SW.
Lupe and Snow Dome. Photo looks SW.
Lupe watches the big show. Photo looks SW.
Lupe watches the big show. Photo looks SW.

For 40 minutes, Lupe and SPHP watched the changing scene.  The blue sky tried hard, but never could reveal the summits of the other peaks around the Athabasca Glacier.  Clouds clung to them.  Sometimes it seemed like the peaks were creating more clouds all by themselves.

It was all still gorgeous.  SPHP was very glad that Lupe came up to Wilcox Pass and over to the viewpoint.  What a shame it would have been to miss all this grandeur!

The Athabasca Glacier and Sunwapta Lake. Photo looks SW.
The summits of Mt. Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda refused to emerge from the clouds.
Mt. Athabasca using the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.
Mt. Athabasca. Photo looks S.

The sunny summit of Mount Wilcox. Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.
The Athabasca Glacier. From Lupe’s high vantage point, part of the Columbia snowfield which feeds the glacier is in view. Photo looks SW.

Eventually the big patch of blue sky started losing the battle.  More clouds were coming.  The sky darkened.  The big show was over, at least for now.  It was time for Lupe to go.  She had lots of fun on the way back exploring the heather.

The blue sky had encouraged others to start coming back up to Wilcox Pass, too.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were no longer alone.  Sporadically, it rained again, but this time not hard enough to discourage everyone.  Now, Lupe and SPHP were the only ones going down, while others came up.

Lupe was pleased and excited to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn’t gone anywhere.  They were still peacefully watching the passing parade.  Lupe got a little more sheep watching in, too.

Lupe was pleased to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn't gone anywhere. She got in a little more fun watching them before continuing down the trail.
Lupe was pleased to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn’t gone anywhere. She got in a little more fun watching them before continuing down the trail.

When Lupe emerged from the forest at the Wilcox Pass trailhead again (2:47 PM), the clouds were nearly all gone.  Blue skies and sunshine prevailed, and things had warmed up considerably (59°F).

SPHP drove Lupe down to the Icefield Centre across the highway from the Athabasca Glacier.  The place was a madhouse.  SPHP was fortunate to get a parking spot in the huge parking lot.  The place was packed with vehicles, with lots more circling around looking for an opening.

The views from the Icefield Centre weren’t as good as from high above in the Wilcox Pass area, but the scene was still magnificent.  Now that their summits were in clear view, Lupe agreed to pose for a few more photos of the high snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.

Part of Snow Dome (L) and Mount Kitchener (11,499 ft.) (R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Too bad the sky never got this clear while Lupe was on high near Wilcox Pass! Photo looks WSW.
A closer view using the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.
A closer view using the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.
The Dome Glacier (Center) and Snow Dome (L). Photo looks WSW.
The Dome Glacier (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R). Photo looks W.
The Dome Glacier (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R). Photo looks W.
Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (R). Photo looks SSW.
Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (R). Photo looks SSW.
Lupe with beautiful snow and glacier covered Mount Athabasca in the background. Photo looks S.
Lupe with beautiful snow and glacier covered Mount Athabasca in the background. Photo looks S.

The rainy, misty morning was long gone, having finally given way to this bright, sunny afternoon.  Lupe had been close to the Athabasca Glacier, made it to Wilcox Pass, and seen glorious sights from on high.

Well, Looper, it’s what, not even 3:15 PM, yet.  What now?

Since we are in the Canadian Rockies on a fine summer afternoon, looks like time for another adventure to me!

The clever Carolina Dog was so right!  Lupe and SPHP hopped in the G6, left the teeming Icefield Centre parking lot, and headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  When you are in the Canadian Rockies, the next big adventure is never far away!

Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.).

Note: Although there are many areas of superb beauty in the Canadian Rockies, the Wilcox Pass trail to the dramatic snow and ice-covered panoramic view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener is the most scenically rewarding half day hike Lupe and SPHP have found to date.

The Wilcox Pass trailhead is located less than 0.25 mile off the N bound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 along the gravel road that leads to the Wilcox Creek campground. The turnoff is just a mile or two N of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass, and just a couple miles S of the Icefield Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

The Wilcox Pass trail is in good condition.  The side trail to the viewpoint SW of the pass is easy to spot and follow.  Total elevation gain is on the order of 1,400 feet.  One section of the main trail is fairly steep, but most of it is only moderately strenuous.

Another great trail to a glacier view is only 10 minutes away.  The Parker Ridge trail, which is even shorter (and less time-consuming) than the Wilcox Pass trail, switchbacks up to a spectacular view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.  The Parker Ridge trailhead is along the S bound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 several miles S of the Jasper National Park and Banff National Park boundary at Sunwapta Pass.

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 176 – Elkhorn Divide, Fish Mountain & Hooker Peak (10-9-16)

The names on the sign looked familiar.  They had been on the Peakbagger.com topo map SPHP had been looking at online early this morning.  SPHP parked the G6 next to the sign (1:56 PM, 70°F).  Let’s try it from here, Looper!

Lupe near the intersection of USFS Roads No. 872.3 & No. 878 in the Black Hills of Wyoming. Her day's adventures started here. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe near the intersection of USFS Roads No. 872.3 & No. 878 in the Black Hills of Wyoming. Her day’s adventures started here. Photo looks WSW.

It was a beautiful day, sunny and warm, but Lupe had arrived late for her Black Hills of Wyoming expedition.  Back at home this morning, the printer wouldn’t print.  SPHP had fought with it for hours.  The reason it wouldn’t print was still as clear as mud.  It was nearly noon by the time SPHP had given up on it.

Normally, SPHP brings along a topo map or two printed out from Peakbagger.com on Lupe’s expeditions.  Today, all SPHP had to go on was a hand-sketched map drawn with a couple of contours for each of the peaks Lupe hoped to climb.  Of course, SPHP had the old Black Hills National Forest map along, too, but it showed very little detail.

We might have quite a time trying to figure out what’s what around here, Loop!  Let’s hope we can find and recognize these peaks you’re looking to climb.  Lupe and SPHP started off going WSW on USFS Road No. 872.3 toward a bright yellow grove of aspens where there was a fork in the road.

Fall colors were in full swing at this bright yellow grove of aspens near the intersection of USFS Roads No. 872.3 & 872.1F. Photos looks SW.

At the intersection, the main road angled W on its way to Fish Canyon.  A less traveled road curved S.  It was marked No. 872.1F.  According to SPHP’s old Black Hills National Forest map, it should have said No. 872.4F.  That is, if Lupe was really where SPHP thought she was.  Hmmm.

Loopster, let’s try to find Fish Mountain first, OK?  Lupe had no objections.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6.  Fish Mountain was supposed to be only a mile or so N.  A faint grassy road left No. 872.3 and went NNE up a little valley.  The faint road was evidently what was left of USFS Road No. 878.  SPHP started following it.  Lupe, however, streaked away to the W.

She had found a squirrel!  The valley echoed with joyous Dingo barking.  The good times continued for several minutes, after which Lupe raced N looking for SPHP.  As far as Lupe was concerned, if these woods were full of squirrels, she was going to have a great day whether she ever found Fish Mountain or not.

USFS Road No. 878 soon faded away entirely.  Lupe and SPHP climbed a ridge to the NNW.  The ridge was forested, but not so densely as to make it impossible to get an idea of the general lay of the land.  Off to the NNW were a couple of forested hills.  Another high spot was to the SW along this ridge.  A smaller hill was to the NE, with a bigger one farther NNE.

Fish Mountain was probably one of the hills to the NNW.  A lower grassy ridge to the N on the other side of a shallow valley appeared to lead in that direction.  Lupe and SPHP started down into the valley.  Suddenly, there was gunfire!  Lupe, who had been having a great time exploring and looking for more squirrels, was immediately concerned.

The gunfire was much too distant to be a genuine threat.  Hunters?  Maybe.  Unfortunately it had come from the NW, in the general direction of Fish Mountain.  Now Lupe was begging SPHP not to go that way.  Well, OK.  SPHP decided to take another look at things from the small hill to the NE, while Lupe calmed down.

Lupe at the top of the little hill to the NE. SPHP eventually concluded this hill was the middle high point along Elkhorn Divide. Photo looks NE.
Lupe at the top of the little hill to the NE. SPHP eventually concluded this hill was the middle high point along Elkhorn Divide. Photo looks NE.

Lupe reached the top of the little hill.  As SPHP gazed around, only one thing was really clear.  Distant views were going to be hard to come by in these heavily forested hills.

The nervous American Dingo stuck to SPHP like glue.  Unfortunately, the gunfire was continuing intermittently.  The good news was that meant hunters weren’t the source.  Hunters wouldn’t fire off a round or two every 4 or 5 minutes.  The bad news was that the source was almost certainly someone doing target practice.  Lupe might have to endure the terrifying noise for hours.

SPHP peered through the forest, repeatedly referencing the maps.  Surprisingly, the crudely hand-drawn topo map was actually of some use!  Suddenly, things made sense, at least partial sense.  This hill Lupe was on was the middle high point along Elkhorn Divide (5,944 ft.), wasn’t it?  If so, the true summit would be somewhere on that higher hill Lupe had seen to the N.

SPHP led Lupe N down into a broad, flat saddle area on the way to the Elkhorn Divide summit hill.  In the saddle, Lupe came to a fence.  Beyond the fence, she crossed a road going NW.  She continued N up the big hill.

The highest ground was over toward the W side of the mountain.  Lupe soon arrived at an edge where the ground dropped off steeply.  A short stroll N along the W edge brought Lupe up to a big flat area, which appeared to be the summit of Elkhorn Divide.  This area was all forested, but open enough so it was pretty sunny.

Lupe on a big dead tree at the summit of Elkhorn Divide. Photo looks N.
Lupe on a big dead tree at the summit of Elkhorn Divide. Photo looks N.
Lupe on Elkhorn Divide. Here she's sitting on what appeared to be the highest spot, but there was lots of ground around at virtually the same elevation. Photo looks W.
Lupe on Elkhorn Divide. Here she’s sitting on what appeared to be the highest spot, but there was lots of ground around at virtually the same elevation. Photo looks W.
The Elkhorn Divide summit area. A huge dead pine tree had fallen over toward the E, but gotten hung up on other trees before hitting the ground. Photo looks N.
The Elkhorn Divide summit area. A huge dead pine tree had fallen over toward the E, but gotten hung up on other trees before hitting the ground. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP explored far enough N along the W edge of the Elkhorn Divide summit hill to make certain Lupe had actually been to the true summit.  She had.  The forest made it hard to tell, but there didn’t seem to be any promising routes toward the NW to Fish Mountain from here.

Lupe turned S retracing her route along the W edge back to the summit of Elkhorn Divide.  She continued on down the hill.  Along the way, she came to several rock outcroppings.  From one of them was a narrow view of a mountain off to the W.  SPHP was almost certain that mountain had to be Hooker Peak, another one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals.

Hooker Peak, another of Lupe's peakbagging goals. Photo looks W from a rock outcropping S of the Elkhorn Divide summit using the telephoto lens.
Hooker Peak, another of Lupe’s peakbagging goals. Photo looks W from a rock outcropping S of the Elkhorn Divide summit using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP reached the saddle area again, and got on the road going NW.  Lupe followed the road for only a few minutes.  Glimpses of the grassy ridge she had seen earlier on were becoming visible through the forest.  Lupe left the road heading W.   She came to a fence up on the grassy ridge.  The fence line pointed almost directly at Fish Mountain (5,942 ft.).

Lupe on the grassy ridge on her way to Fish Mountain, the most distant hill on the R. The hill on the L is High Point 5922. Lupe didn't climb HP 5922, but she did climb the lower sub peak seen at (Center) on her way to Fish Mountain. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on the grassy ridge on her way to Fish Mountain, the most distant hill on the R. The hill on the L is High Point 5922. Lupe didn’t climb HP 5922, but she did climb the lower sub peak seen at (Center) on her way to Fish Mountain. Photo looks NW.

Lupe followed the fence line toward Fish Mountain.  The fence turned WNW as it drew near two sub-peaks E of High Point 5922.  Lupe climbed both of these sub-peaks without having to cross the fence.

Climbing the second, higher sub-peak proved to be quite unnecessary.  The rocky summit didn’t provide much of a view of Fish Mountain, despite high hopes for one.  Lupe then had to lose all the elevation she had just gained traversing a steep slope toward the saddle over to Fish Mountain.

While exploring the steep slope, Lupe made an intensely exciting discovery.  She found a squirrel on the ground!  The squirrel alertly made a narrow escape by springing nimbly to the safety of a nearby tree.  Unfortunately for the poor squirrel, the tree was either dead or an aspen that had already lost all its leaves.  Lupe could see the frightened squirrel scrambling around up there, and raised a tremendous ruckus.

The squirrel was 35 feet above the ground and perfectly safe, but totally unnerved.  It desperately wanted to get out of sight.  Dashing around from one spindly little branch to the next, it lost its balance.  Down fell the squirrel!  Clear back to the ground.  Lupe was after it immediately.

Now, if SPHP ever falls out of a tree 35 feet straight down to the ground, that will be the end of the ole’ ballgame right then and there.  The squirrel, however, sprang up like Lazarus from the dead, totally unfazed.  Nevertheless, if there hadn’t been so much tall grass, brush and deadfall timber around to slow Lupe down, things might well have ended badly for the squirrel.  As it was, Lazarus the squirrel escaped again to a big pine tree and disappeared.

Lupe was so excited, for a little while she didn’t even think about the gunfire, which was still going on.  She was convinced that where one squirrel could be found on the ground, there might well be more.  Lupe sniffed frantically everywhere.  She didn’t calm down until she was past the saddle and climbing the S slope of Fish Mountain.

Near the top of Fish Mountain, was a band of small limestone cliffs.  The cliffs were quite broken up, so it wasn’t hard at all for Lupe to find a route through them.  Lupe arrived up on a summit ridge about 200 feet long E/W, and 25 or 30 feet wide N/S.  Several different stones closer to the E end vied for the title of true summit.

Lupe at the summit of Fish Mountain. Photo looks W.
Lupe at the summit of Fish Mountain. Photo looks W.

The E end of the summit ridge was surprisingly barren, but still ringed by enough trees to block the views.  However, there was one exception.  A small gap in the trees provided a glimpse of Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) off to the SSW.

Inyan Kara Mountain as seen from Fish Mountain using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe and SPHP took a break up on Fish Mountain.  By now, Lupe was back to worrying about the gunfire again.  Apparently target practice was going to last all day.  SPHP tried to comfort Lupe, but the truth was her next peakbagging goal was Hooker Peak, even closer to the source of Lupe’s torment.

Instead of heading back down the steep S slope of Fish Mountain, Lupe and SPHP explored the summit ridge to the W.  It went farther than SPHP expected, before beginning to lose elevation steadily.  Lupe arrived at an opening in the forest along the S rim of the ridge where there was a clear view to the SSW.  Inyan Kara could be seen again, along with a couple more peaks Lupe hoped to climb tomorrow.

At the viewpoint along the S rim of Fish Mountain, well W of the summit. Inyan Kara is seen in the distance. Duling Hill (6,005 ft.) is L of the dead tree. Iron Mountain (5,887 ft.) is in the foreground to the R of Inyan Kara partially obscuring it. Photo looks SSW.
Another look with the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
Another look with the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
Duling Hill (Center) from Fish Mountain. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP continued W from the viewpoint.  Lupe didn’t have to go much farther before the terrain dropped down to a more heavily forested area where she found an old road.  The road took her SE down to the W side of the saddle between Fish Mountain and High Point 5922.  There it turned sharply W continuing down a side valley all the way to Fish Canyon.

By the time Lupe reached Fish Canyon, the sun was already so low it was only shining on the mountaintops.  However, Lupe was quite close to another peakbagging objective, Hooker Peak (5,862 ft.).  Maybe she could still make it up Hooker Peak before sunset?  She would have to hurry!  Lupe and SPHP went a short distance NNW on the road in Fish Canyon before turning SW to climb Hooker Peak’s NE ridge.

Most of the climb wasn’t bad, but Lupe was a nervous wreck.  The continuing gunfire was now quite loud, originating from somewhere much lower, but not too far away to the NW.  SPHP could hardly move without tripping over or stepping on the psyched out American Dingo.  Just like Lazarus the squirrel, Lupe was desperate to hide.

Despite the gunfire and steep final trek to the summit, Lupe arrived up on top of Hooker Peak.  The sun was on the horizon.  The summit ridge proved to be a short, narrow line of rock, with fairly high cliffs to the S, an arrangement which provided a panoramic view in that direction.  In all other directions, there was forest.

Lupe on Hooker Peak, WY. Inyan Kara is seen in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
Lupe on Hooker Peak, WY. Inyan Kara is seen in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
Looking SW along part of the short rocky summit ridge of Hooker Peak.
Looking SW along part of the short rocky summit ridge of Hooker Peak.
Inyan Kara from Hooker Peak. Photo looks SSW using the telephoto lens.

There was more to the Hooker Peak summit ridge than SPHP originally realized.  Lupe explored it farther to the WSW.  It remained quite high, part of it perhaps as high as where Lupe had her summit photos taken on the rocks.  There were more trees and bushes to deal with here.  SPHP hoped for a clear view of the fast fading sunset, but there really wasn’t one.

Lupe near the WSW end of the Hooker Peak summit ridge. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe near the WSW end of the Hooker Peak summit ridge. Photo looks WSW.

The sun was gone.  Twilight began fading fast.  Lupe and SPHP spent maybe 20 minutes total up on Hooker Peak before having to retreat.  Lupe went down the mountain following the NE ridge, retracing her route up.  Darkness came on so quickly that SPHP had to bring out the flashlight before Lupe even made it back down to Fish Canyon.

At last, Lupe was happy again.  Target practice was finally over.  (Thank heavens, the would-be sharpshooter didn’t have night vision goggles!)  Beneath a star-studded sky, Lupe and SPHP followed the road up Fish Canyon.  At first it went S, then SE.  After a mile or so, there was an intersection not shown on the old Black Hills National Forest map.  The hand-sketched topo map was useless too.  SPHP guessed, taking the road going S instead of E.

There were doubt-filled moments, but finally, 1.5 miles later, after the road had wound around before turning E, Lupe came to the intersection near the grove of yellow aspens she had been to before.  Three minutes later, she was at the G6 (8:07 PM, 46°F) feasting on an entire can of Alpo.

For once, Lupe wasn’t going straight home following a Black Hills expedition.  She was staying right here.  A long night was ahead, but Lupe’s adventures in the Black Hills of Wyoming weren’t over yet!

On Hooker Peak, Black Hills, WY 10-9-16

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.