2022 – Page 13 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Hudson Bay Mountain, Hazelton Mountains, British Columbia, Canada – The Crater Lake Trail & Beyond! (8-7-22)

Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-6-22, morning, Babine Mountains, 0.5 km W of Summit Pass –

How’s your toe, SPHP? Can you walk?

All bruised and purple, Loop, but it must not be broken. Yeah, I can walk.

Yesterday evening during the steep descent of Mount Hyland’s S ridge, a rock had slid, causing SPHP to bash a boot hard straight into a boulder. A now vivid purple toe was ugly as sin, but after a night sleeping like the dead, didn’t hurt as much as it had on the way back to the tiny house. Summoning what energy SPHP could muster, preparations for the trip back down the McCabe Trail to Driftwood Canyon began.

8-6-22, 11:45 AM, 62ºF, end of Driftwood Road – With the exception of the pesky mosquitoes which were out in force, the morning’s scenic trek down the McCabe Trail had been fun. Finally back at the trailhead, the Carolina Dog was anxious to leap up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 the instant SPHP opened the door. Lupe stayed there relaxing, eating, or snoozing the rest of the day, refusing to leave the RAV4 even for a short sniff until the Big Dipper glittered overhead.

8-7-22, 7:14 AM, 53ºF, Driftwood Canyon –

Rested up yet, Looper? Ready for action?

Oh, I don’t know, SPHP. What did you have in mind?

Another peakbagging failure, Loopster.

Why, SPHP? Do we intend to specialize in failures this Dingo Vacation?

No, but the true summit of this next mountain is a technical climb, Loop, beyond anything we’re capable of. However, from what I understand, we ought to be able to get to the S summit, which isn’t an awful lot lower than the true one.

Terrific! Shades of Mount Hyland! Another peak with multiple summits, only one of the lower ones of which we can actually manage to get to. What’s so special about this mountain that makes you so keen on such an undertaking, SPHP?

I like it’s name, Loop, plus it’s an incredible peak with a glacier tucked in a giant cirque we can gaze down on from more than 1,000 feet above.

That does sound cool, SPHP! Care to share the name of this magnificent mountain with me?

I’ll give you a couple of clues, Loopster. You’ve seen this peak on multiple occasions before, including as recently as 2 days ago. Furthermore, in 2019 we intended to climb it, but woke to fog and mist.

Those are most excellent clues, SPHP! Count me in! You must be referring to Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.).

Unfortunately, despite a clear weather forecast obtained a few days ago, the morning sky was overcast. The gray murk even spit a little rain on the drive from Driftwood Canyon into Smithers. A new forecast was in order. Once obtained, it held out some hope. Cloudy all morning, but clearing this afternoon.

Guess there’s no big rush to get there, Loop. We can cool our jets for a bit here in Smithers. Would you like to give Hudson Bay Mountain a shot a little later on?

Absolutely, SPHP! And another snooze before then won’t hurt a thing.

8-7-22, 11:15 AM, 59ºF, Crater Lake trailhead – Local literature referred to the access road as Ski Hill Road, but the street sign leaving the S end of Smithers actually said Dahlie Road. Initially paved, it quickly turned into gravel Hudson Bay Mountain Road. In any case, access was a long, windy affair that ultimately wound steeply up the mountain’s S slopes to a cluster of cabins, vacation homes, and a ski T-bar at the very end.

Although still cloudy, apparently the weather hadn’t dampened anyone else’s spirits. The trailhead was nearly full when SPHP parked the RAV4, and the Carolina Dog leapt out.

Heading over to the building at the end of the trailhead where the T-bar started, lots of people were milling around. Beyond the building, a green telephone pole bore the sign SPHP was looking for.

The building at the end of the trailhead where the T-bar starts.

The fancy schmancy Crater Lake trail sign.

Here we go, Looper! The Crater Lake trail. Think it’s about 3 km to Crater Lake from here.

Crater Lake? You didn’t mention a lake before, SPHP, only a glacier.

Oh, forgive me. Yes, there’s a lake here, too, Loop! The Crater Lake trail is merely the first part of the journey to Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit. Supposed to be quite easy, just a steady uphill march.

Uphill it was, too! The Crater Lake trail started out as a steep dirt road going N from the sign past several private cabins tucked back in among the trees. Beyond the cabins, the road became rocky and rough, soon leading to a junction where the Carolina Dog turned NW on a road that wasn’t quite as steep.

Passing one of the cabins near the start. Photo looks N.

A primitive road, but excellent trail. Photo looks N.

Looking back after the initial steep push. Photo looks SSE.

This road ran through a very healthy-looking evergreen forest, but the trees rapidly began to thin out as Lupe gained elevation. Soon the road turned into little more than a good single track trail. Lovely views were appearing back to the SE. Farther up the trail, not much could be seen yet, other than that it was still cloudy.

View to the SE as the forest starts to give away.

Heading for the clouds. Photo looks NNW.

Before long, Lupe reached the last stands of stunted evergreens. Beyond them was a region known locally as the “prairie”, a vast, lush meadow of grass and wildflowers. Ahead, the trail continued NW across the prairie directly toward long snowbanks along the upper rim of a cirque where Crater Lake remained hidden from view. Above the snow, Hudson Bay Mountain was cloaked in fog.

Near the last stunted evergreens on the way to Crater Lake. Photo looks NW.

The Crater Lake trail is popular. Lupe met quite a few groups of people and dogs already on their way back down from the lake, and more were on their way higher, both ahead of and behind her. A cool breeze out of the W kept the bugs away during the steady, easy to moderately-paced climb through the scenic prairie.

The American Dingo enjoyed sweeping views toward all points S on a trek that proved longer than it first appeared.

Part of **Hudson Bay Mountain’s enormous SE prairie**. Photo looks ESE.

Progress was good. As Lupe gained elevation on the way to the cirque, the clouds were lifting as well, revealing more and more of the region above Crater Lake. All rock with scattered snowfields, Hudson Bay Mountain didn’t otherwise look like rugged territory at all, just a very big hill. Getting to the S summit was going to be a breeze!

Closing in on the cirque as the clouds lift from **Hudson Bay Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NW.

At the upper end of the prairie, Lupe reached a ridge featuring minor rock formations overlooking a valley 75 feet lower. Beyond this valley, blue-gray Crater Lake nestled in the cirque at the base of cliffs and steep slopes surrounding the entire N half of the lake. Crater Lake was almost perfectly round, with a waterfall cascading down an extraordinarily steep, snowy ravine to the middle of the N shore.

**Crater Lake** comes into view. Photo looks NW.

Let’s go see Crater Lake, SPHP!

That’s the plan, Looper! We’ll take a break there before continuing on.

On the way down into the valley, Lupe roamed W off-trail a little way to get a look from a slightly different angle. Crater Lake and the big cirque it was in were very beautiful. Small wonder it was such a popular destination!

While in the valley, the sun came out, shining brightly from a still mostly cloudy sky. Miller Creek, the exit stream flowing from the SE corner of Crater Lake, vanished mysteriously beneath a big snowbank down here. Directly ahead was a rocky, 20 foot high bank leading to Crater Lake. Crossing the stream, Loop was up the bank in no time.

**Miller Creek** vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks WSW.

Below the bank leading to Crater Lake. Photo looks NNW.

8-7-22, 12:30 PM – 20 people, and 5 or 6 dogs, were at Crater Lake when Lupe arrived. The water was exceptionally clear, cold, and quickly got deep beyond the shore. The American Dingo had a drink, but did not venture in. A beach of small rocks was over by the SE shore, but SPHP instead chose a vantage point on a hill overlooking the middle of the S shore as a break spot.

The rocky **SE beach** (R). Photo looks E.

Beef jerky, Loop?

No need to ask twice! The Carolina Dog practically inhaled it, resorting to Taste of the Wild only after SPHP cut off the jerky supply.

A very pleasant time was spent enjoying the superb view of Crater Lake and the waterfall plunging into it on the opposite shore, but after such a late start Lupe couldn’t stay here too long, if she hoped to ever get to the S summit of Hudson Bay Mountain.

The steep, snowy ravine and waterfall along the N shore. Photo looks N.

People and dogs came and went. Crater Lake was the final destination for the vast majority, but a few ventured up the long slope E of the lake.

Hate to eat and run, but that’s what we need to be doing too, Loop.

Bidding lovely Crater Lake a fond farewell, the American Dingo was on her way. A use trail had been seen veering off to the NE from the ridge where Crater Lake had first come into view, so Lupe retraced her route back to it.

The use trail was moderate to fairly steep. Easy to follow, it ran N up the long grassy slope overlooking the E side of Crater Lake, which was still visible below. Before long, Lupe reached the end of the grassy region. From here, the trail zig-zagged up into the rocky world of Hudson Bay Mountain’s enormous SE ridge.

The use trail. **Crater Lake** (L), **Hudson Bay Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Near the end of the grass. **Hudson Bay Mountain** (L), **SE Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

Once up into the rock, the top of the giant ridge never looked an awful lot higher, but looks were deceiving. No matter how high Lupe climbed, the top of the ridge remained a few hundred feet above. The use trail soon turned NW, eventually nearly vanishing in a sea of rock. Cairns with pink ribbons helped mark the route.

It would have been possible to ascend to the SE ridge almost anywhere. The rocks weren’t all that big, a mix of large scree and small boulders. Where undisturbed, the rocks were covered with dark lichens, but were tan, gray, or brown along the path. In fact, there seemed to be multiple paths. The few people coming down passed either well above, or below, Lupe’s route.

Climbing at a moderate pace nearly all the time, Loop also encountered occasional flat sections, plus a few short, gritty, steep spots, too. She led the way, displaying great energy and enthusiasm.

Below the **enormous SE ridge**. Photo looks NNE.

Pressing on toward the snowfields. Photo looks NW.

**Crater Lake** (R) from above. Photo looks SSW.

By a cairn with a pink ribbon as the trail vanishes among the rock. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe was already a long way from Crater Lake when a trail going more directly up to Hudson Bay Mountain’s SE ridge appeared. This was a steeper route, but finally got the Carolina Dog clear up to the ridgeline.

Heading up to the **SE ridge**. Photo looks NE.

On the giant **SE ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Unobstructed views to the S had become increasingly spectacular ever since reaching the prairie, but this was different. Loop now stood on the brink of a precipice overlooking a long U-shaped valley. Peering over the edge, Smithers was in sight way down at the lower ESE end. A dark gray and rust brown peak flecked with snow culminated the upper end.

Along the **brink of the SE ridge**. **Hudson Bay Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

Huh. What happened to the glacier, Loopster? I don’t see it.

Maybe it melted, SPHP?

Since the day before yesterday? We saw it from Mount Hyland, Loop.

Oh, that’s right! This must be the wrong valley then, SPHP.

SPHP checked the topo map.

You’re right, Looper. We’re looking at the Simpson Creek canyon. The glacier is beyond the next ridge to the N. Should be able to see it once we get up to that peak at the upper end of this canyon.

Is that peak the S summit, SPHP?

Don’t think so, Loop. It’s actually the lower end of an upper SE ridge. Once we get to it, the S summit should only be another 0.5 km, if that.

Climbing near the precipice along the rim of the Simpson Creek canyon, Lupe followed various use trails NW. Like the rest of the mountain had been, these routes were rocky, but not difficult. Several steepish rises were followed by much flatter sections.

Heading up along the rim of the **Simpson Creek canyon** (R). Photo looks NW.

The first sign of trouble came from the top of the first rise. A bump on the back side of the “peak” at the upper end of the canyon that hadn’t been visible earlier when the mountain was shrouded in clouds, was now seen to be much more than a mere wart. In fact, it was a huge, steep-sided fin jutting up substantially higher well beyond the “peak”.

Monitoring the pimple (Center) on the peak ahead while it still appeared small. Photo looks NW.

The **huge fin** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Sheesh! I don’t like the looks of that fin, Loop.

Do you think it’s Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit, SPHP?

Precisely what I’m afraid of, Looper.

The last large flat region led to a slight downslope. At the bottom stood a big cairn topped by a pink ribbon. This cairn had been extended into a 15 foot long wall of rock 4 feet high. Beyond this edifice lay the slope comprising the final steep ascent to the “peak” at the upper end of the Simpson Creek canyon, and the troubling dark fin beyond.

By the cairn and wall of rock. Photo looks NNW.

A chill, 20 mph breeze blew out of the W as Lupe began her ascent from the big cairn. Occasionally, there were stronger gusts or moments of calm. Still displaying amazing energy, the American Dingo continued to lead the way among dark rocks on a path of tan and gold near the edge of the Simpson Creek canyon.

Never hesitating, Looper climbed and climbed. SPHP tried to judge how much higher she had to go by checking progress versus the 2,340 meter ridge across the canyon. Seemed to take a long time to pull even with it. 200 meters yet to go!

At last, a small dome of snow appeared. This was it, the top of the peak at the head of the Simpson Creek canyon!

Approaching the snow dome. Photo looks N.

No, not really. As the topo map had shown, this wasn’t actually the top of anything, merely the lower end of an upper, much shorter, SE ridge. And the snow dome turned out to be only half of a dome. Beyond it was an incredible sight! Towering above others, 3 jagged summits soared skyward at the head of a spectacular chasm sheltering the Hudson Bay Glacier more than 1,000 feet below.

**Hudson Bay Mountain**: **S summit** (far L), **Middle summit** (L), **True summit** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

**Hudson Bay Glacier.** Photo looks NNE.

The view was stunning, almost terrifying! Beyond the half snow dome, along a much narrower, but still easily passable ridge, several minor high points led NW toward the first tower, the same dark fin Lupe had seen before, now clearly identifiable as the S summit of Hudson Bay Mountain.

Circling S of the half snow dome to avoid the fearsome precipice, Looper continued up the gently sloping ridge a short distance to the first minor high point. Pausing here, SPHP suddenly saw that she was standing next to a white plastic bottle with a black top.

By the white bottle (R). **S summit** (far L). Photo looks N.

Let’s take a break, Loop! The registry must be in that bottle. Evidently this must be about as far as most people go.

Inside the bottle were 2 booklets with lemon yellow covers, Glacier View Books 1 & 2, and several pencils. Book 1 was nearly full of entries. Book 2 had only a few on the first page.

8-7-22, 3:50 PM, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.), at the registry high point on the upper SE ridge leading to the S summit –

Hmm! Looks like you’re the only one to make it this far today, Looper. Last entry was yesterday.

So the people we saw that were going down never got this far, SPHP?

Evidently not, Loop. Either that, or they just didn’t bother to sign in.

Well, sign me in, SPHP. Then let’s have a chocolate coconut bar!

Gads! I forgot to bring one, Loop. How about more beef jerky, instead?

Ordinarily I accept no substitutes, SPHP, but I’ll make an exception in this case.

*What? No chocolate coconut bar!* Relaxing on the upper SE ridge. Photo looks SE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the American Dingo on getting this close to the S summit, then shared the enthusiastically received beef jerky with her. This was followed up with the last of the Taste of the Wild for Loop; peanuts and vanilla pudding for SPHP. After entering Lupe’s name in one of the Glacier View registries, SPHP placed both books back into the white bottle before restoring it to its place.

For some reason, this upper SE ridge wasn’t as windy as during the tan and gold climb to the half snow dome. The breeze was only 10 mph out of the W, although during stronger gusts it felt even cooler than before. Fewer clouds were in the sky now, but Hudson Bay Mountain drew those that were like a magnet. Lupe was often in shadow, brief moments of sunshine vanishing as quickly and suddenly as they had appeared.

Far more clouds lingered among mountains visible toward almost every horizon. The Babines, where Lupe had spent the last several days, were way off to the NE, and sunnier than the rest. A much higher range with a multitude of impressive peaks sporting big glaciers was off to the S and W. These lofty unfamiliar peaks were all far away among thick clouds. Nearby Aldrich Lake and Dennis Lake down in the lowlands were about all that SPHP was able to identify.

Having a look around from the **registry high point**. Photo looks NNE.

Glacier view from the registry high point. **Babine Mountains** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

**Babine Mountains**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Unidentified peaks and lake. Photo looks W(?) with help from the telephoto lens.

**Aldrich Lake** (L) and **Dennis Lake** (R). Photo looks SW.

Distant glacier-clad peaks among the clouds. Photo looks S or SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Snowy giants. Photo looks S or SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Shall we continue on, SPHP? See if we can get to the S summit?

Not at all optimistic about that at this point, Loop, but sure, let’s see how far we can go.

The next minor high point wasn’t much farther. Lupe scrambled up to a ridge providing even more spectacular views of the Hudson Bay Glacier and Hudson Bay Mountain’s fantastically rugged summit region.

On the high point NW of the registry location. **Babine Mountains** (L) in the distance. Photo looks SE.

Pondering the incredible glacier view. **Babine Mountains** (R). Photo looks NE.

Only 2 more high points were beyond this one, the second being the scary dark fin of Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit looming not too far ahead. Getting to the next to the last high point involved a descent of maybe 25 or 30 feet to a small saddle next to a snowbank. That didn’t look hard, but from there, Lupe would have to climb 80 to 100 feet up a slope so steep that it looked pretty sketchy to SPHP.

Think we’re done, Loop. If this next high point actually was the S summit, we’d drop down to the saddle to take a closer look, but even if we manage to get up there, we’d still have to face that frightful fin.

We’re off to a such grand start on this Dingo Vacation, aren’t we, SPHP? First two mountains we try to climb are fails. This time, we can’t even get to the S summit, never mind the true one.

Eh, no worries, Looper! Thought we’d easily get to the S summit from what I’d read online, but it really doesn’t make any difference. Knew all along that Hudson Bay Mountain’s true summit was beyond anything we can do, so this fail was pre-ordained from the start. Actually amazing that we got this far. Hudson Bay Mountain has over 5,000 feet of prominence!

Have to admit, we did get pretty high, SPHP. What an imposing summit, too! Genuine mountaineering territory from here on.

Scares me just looking at it, Loop! The whole experience came complete with beautiful Crater Lake and this awesome glacier, too! Look at where we are. What an incredible mountain! So glad we came, even if we can’t get to the top.

As close as Lupe got to **Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit** (L). Photo looks NW.

While the Carolina Dog enjoyed tremendous sweeping views far off into the distance from the upper SE ridge, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) itself, with it’s fearsome multi-crag summit and spectacular glacier so far below, was the real scenic highlight. For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP remained high on the SE ridge in the cool W breeze, happy to be here.

**Hudson Bay Mountain’s craggy summit region**: **S summit** (far L), **Middle summit** (L), **True summit** (Center). Photo looks NW.

8-7-22, 5:00 PM, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) – Lupe stood alone on the 2nd minor high point she’d reached on the upper SE ridge, her point of farthest advance, the unattainable dark fin of the S summit still more than 200 feet higher looming beyond her. Sniffing the breeze, surveying the glory all about her, she waited for SPHP to give the signal that the sad, inevitable moment of departure had arrived.

Final moments high on **Hudson Bay Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

Stay up there, Loopster! I’ll take another one from a little farther down!

Wow! Doesn’t get much better than this! OK, thanks Loop, it’s time!

Lupe came running, but hung around with SPHP at the registry high point enjoying the grandeur of Hudson Bay Mountain for another 10 minutes before her descent began in earnest.

The wind was again 20 mph out of the W as the American Dingo headed down the tan and gold path below the half snow dome. The descent was super scenic, fast, and easy, the wind eventually diminishing as Lupe lost elevation. The “prairie” and the cluster of vacation homes and cabins that Loop had started out from more than 3,000 feet below were in view practically the entire way.

**Simpson Creek canyon** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Heading down the gold and tan path. **The prairie** (L). Photo looks SE.

Lupe eventually met 2 men coming up the mountain. Although the sun was getting low, they were young, strong, and moving fast.

Have a feeling you won’t be the only one signed in on the registry today, Looper!

Approaching **Crater Lake** again. Photo looks S.

By the time Lupe got back to the prairie, the young men had already passed slow-poke SPHP on their way down.

Back at **the prairie**. Photo looks SE.

The American Dingo did not return to Crater Lake, instead joining the parade of people and dogs on their way back to the trailhead. Lupe met Mika, a beautiful young dog that wasn’t yet as big as she was. A couple of sniffs, and they hit it off! So this wonderful, happy day on fabulous Hudson Bay Mountain ended with a wild game of Dingo tag among the prairie wildflowers swaying in the W breeze. (8-7-22, 8:03 PM, 59ºF)

Amid the prairie wildflowers at the end of a marvelous day. Photo looks NE.

On **Hudson Bay Mountain**, Hazelton Mountains, British Columbia, Canada 8-7-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Hudson Bay Mountain & Crater Lake Trail Map

Bulkley Valley Backpackers Society Website

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mount Hyland, Babine Mountains, British Columbia, Canada – Part 2: Summit Pass to the Summit! (8-5-22)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

Wee hours, 0.5 km W of Summit Pass – A gentle paw woke SPHP from a sound sleep. Lupe wanted out. Unzipping the door to the tiny house, SPHP let her go. Shining the flashlight after her revealed only thick fog. Not good.

Don’t get lost out there, Loop!

Started to rain shortly after the Carolina Dog left. She was soon back, her fur already quite damp.

At least, I’m smart enough to come in out of the rain, SPHP!

You’re a wise Dingo, Looper.

Not looking very good for our plan to climb Mount Hyland tomorrow, SPHP. Thought your forecast said it was going to be sunny?

Yeah, I know. Maybe it’ll clear off? Might as well get some more shut-eye in the meantime.

Lupe went out in the night once more later on. Still foggy, but the rain had ended, only a light mist remaining.

7:31 AM, chilly – What luck! Sunshine was on Mount Hyland’s massive SW ridge. No fog now! Only high, thin clouds sailed over the enormous valley the American Dingo was supposed to explore today.

Get cracking, SPHP! Mount Hyland (7,477 ft.) is a go!

**Mount Hyland’s SW bowl** from the tiny house. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe set out heading E to the McCabe Trail as if she intended to return to Summit Pass, which she’d visited yesterday evening. However, SPHP led her off-trail well before she got that far, turning NW across a level field of rich green grass.

The American Dingo was in her element! Freshly rested and energetic, Lupe raced this way and that over the soft green carpet, sniffing madly, while marmots whistled all around.

Roaming **Mount Hyland’s Dingo Paradise**! Photo looks NW.

The wonderful field soon led to a green bench that rose gradually as it wrapped around the SW corner of Mount Hyland’s gigantic S ridge. The bench ended before Lupe got too much farther. Suddenly, a view of rockier terrain appeared ahead.

Entering rockier ground. Photo looks NW.

Climbed a bit too fast already, didn’t we, Loop?

Story of our lives, SPHP.

Still some greenery ahead. Descending 50 feet or so, Loopster got back to her kind of terrain. In high spirits, she wandered among a maze of rocks and tundra. Prime marmot territory! Before long she’d gone far enough NW.

Think we can turn N now, Loop. Time to start climbing again!

A final steep grassy slope, etched by rivulets pouring down from above, quickly led to a world of rock. To the NE, a ravine choked with big talus swept up along the base of Mount Hyland’s S ridge. Immediately ahead, the Carolina Dog faced a hill of exposed bedrock.

Ascending the last green slope. Photo looks NNW.

**Ravine of talus below the S ridge** (R). **Bedrock hill** (L). Photo looks NE.

Let’s avoid all that rock-hopping in this ravine if we can, SPHP!

With you on that, Looper, provided we can get over this hill.

The bedrock hill was actually quite a fun climb, full of little benches and ramps. Once on top, another small rocky ridge was just ahead, barely any higher than this first hill.

Climbing the bedrock hill. Photo looks NNW.

On the bedrock hill, with another minor ridge ahead. Photo looks NE.

Although Loopster was just getting started up Mount Hyland, looking back to the SSW, there was already quite a view.

Lupe, look! See that mountain toward the L? You’ve been there! That’s got to be Astlais Mountain (6,037 ft.)!

Really, SPHP? Astlais Mountain was fabulous! That must mean that lower triangle in shadow even farther L is the Big Onion (5,840 ft.)!

No doubt about it, Loop! Awesome to see them again from here!

**Big Onion Mountain** (far L) in shadow, **Astlais Mountain** (L), NE part of **Pyramid Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSW.

After climbing up and over the next little ridge, then wandering a region of exposed bedrock slabs beyond it, the central valley of the enormous bowl nestled between Mount Hyland’s massive S and SW ridges came into view. A wide river of talus swept down the middle of it.

Holy schmoley, SPHP! That’s a lot of rock!

Nothing too difficult, Looper, but will certainly be slow going for me.

A first snowbank on the way over the next ridge. Photo looks NE.

The river of talus in the central valley. Photo looks NE.

Before taking on the talus, SPHP used the camera’s telephoto lens to scan the far upper end of the valley. Mount Hyland’s summit was somewhere beyond what could be seen from here, but starting to ponder what might be the easiest way to get up to it couldn’t hurt. Staying toward the E (R) once higher up looked like the thing to do.

**Upper end of the central valley**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Pressing on, Lupe descended to the river of talus. Snowbanks strong enough to provide support helped a little. Angling NNW across the talus, Lupe reached another bedrock ridge. Once up it, there was more talus. The American Dingo passed a beautiful shallow tarn.

About to head down into the talus. Photo looks ENE.

At the next bedrock ridge. Photo looks N.

Beyond the tarn, a steeper climb NW came next on a combination of mostly talus and some bedrock to get past a huge wall of rock extending W from the S ridge. This led to a flat region where Looper crossed a big snowfield. Turning N, and scrambling higher, the Carolina Dog reached a large, flat slab. This seemed like a good spot to take a break.

Relaxing on the slab, Lupe now had a better view of the upper valley.

Crossing the snowfield after the steeper climb beyond the tarn. Photo looks SSE.

The upper valley from the rest break slab. Photo looks NE.

Still a ways to go, but it doesn’t look too bad from here, SPHP.

Yeah, I can’t decide if we should stick with the valley as far as possible, and head straight toward that high point at the upper end, or if we ought to scramble up onto the S ridge. Maybe there’s some tundra up there, Loop?

That would sure speed things along compared to all this rock, SPHP.

Break time over, Lupe headed NE among the talus, avoiding it whenever possible. Progress wasn’t too bad, and there were opportunities to cool off on snowbanks too steep to climb. Turning NNE, after a quite a steep ascent, to SPHP’s surprise, the American Dingo reached an oasis, a bench of soft, green moss that felt good on the paws, with a lovely little stream gurgling through it. Lupe was clearly delighted!

So was SPHP. From the look of things, Loop was already getting pretty high on the mountain.

At the unexpected green oasis. Photo looks WNW.

This is encouraging, Loop! Maybe we ought to scramble up to the S ridge right now?

How much higher is it, SPHP?

Not sure, Looper, but probably only a few hundred feet.

That wasn’t a bad estimate as it turned out, but it took a little persuading to convince Loopster to abandon her lovely oasis. She got into it, though, which was a good thing, because the rocky scramble was just plain steep for a good 150 feet, before getting somewhat easier.

Scrambling up the **S ridge**. Photo looks E.

Results, unfortunately, were not as hoped. A glance in any direction was more than enough to shatter dreams of an easy stroll along the tundra. What tundra? The entire S ridge was an endless jumble of rock. A small, level, relatively rock-free patch of dirt with a few wisps of brown grass was as good as it got.

Off to the N, though, a hill with a long snowbank below it was visible a bit beyond the junction of the S and SW ridges.

Oh, my gosh, Loop! Is that Mount Hyland’s summit? Sure looks like it from here!

Let’s hope so, SPHP. At least it doesn’t look too far away.

At the “grassy” spot on the S ridge. **SW ridge** (L), **summit** (R). Photo looks NW.

Despite the rocky terrain, which wasn’t too terrible since the rocks were mostly of modest size, SPHP was enthused.

Hey, hey! We’re going to make it, Looper! That little hill is an easy climb! All we have to do is get to it.

Nearby to the N, a high point jutted out to the E. There seemed to be no reason to bother climbing it. Skirting along the W side turned out to be a good decision. Immediately beyond the E high point, Lupe came to a long snowbank. Afraid of what might lay beyond it, SPHP wouldn’t let her cool off on the snow. Another good decision!

**E high point along the S ridge** (Center), **Peak 7390** (L), the **dangerous snowbank** (by Lupe). Photo looks ESE.

Continuing N, a more flat-topped knob was ahead. This time, trying to go around the W side didn’t work. Too steep! Lupe had to scramble up onto the knob. Happily, this wasn’t too difficult, but upon reaching the top, a shock was in store.

The small hill SPHP had taken for Mount Hyland’s true summit wasn’t the only high point ahead. Another one was now visible a few hundred feet farther NNE along what appeared to be an extremely narrow ridge. Worse yet, this second high point also appeared to be not only a little higher, but capped by a massive, vertical-sided boulder.

**Original high point** (L of Center), **boulder high point** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

Yikes! That better not be Hyland’s true summit, Looper! I don’t think we can get up on that boulder, even if we manage to get over to it.

There’s not much difference in elevation between those two high points, SPHP. Maybe it’s just an illusion that the boulder one is higher?

Maybe. Won’t know until we get closer, I guess. Onward! Puppy ho!

Fortunately, there was a safe way to scramble down to the N from the E end of the knob Lupe was on. Losing roughly 50 feet of elevation, the Carolina Dog managed to reach the base of the knob.

No further significant obstacles were visible on the broad rocky ridge leading toward the closest high point, but a new threat was developing. Although the weather had been mostly sunny this morning, now that it was mid-day, clouds were rapidly building. Fog sometimes boiled up from the SW valley Lupe had explored, and many big clouds were now streaming in from out of the W.

Clouds sweep in toward both high points (L). Photo looks N.

We better get there while we can still see something, Looper! Onward!

The trek N up the rocky slope was all relatively easy. SPHP couldn’t help staring over at that second high point farther NNE, hoping it wasn’t the true summit. Actually, it didn’t look like it was from here, so excitement was growing. Loopster was going to make it! SPHP hadn’t the least bit of doubt that she’d soon be at the first high point.

Suddenly, Lupe was nearly there! She’d reached the junction of Mount Hyland’s S and SW ridges. The first high point was now very close by, up a much narrower ridge. As anticipated, the American Dingo had plenty of room to get there without ever having to set paw on the steep snow.

Skirting around W of the snow revealed the final simple romp to a cairn atop the first high point!

12:54 PM, 58ºF, Mount Hyland (7,477 ft.) – She’d done it! Fog swept in from out of the W, as Lupe stood proudly on the cairn at the first high point. A moment later, the only views remaining were to the E and S. Peak 7390 was in sight out that way, and Lupe could also see both the knob she’d gone over along Hyland’s S ridge, as well as that initial high point that jutted out to the E.

A mighty American Dingo atop the cairn on **Mount Hyland**. Photo looks NE.

**Peak 7390** (L), the **knob Lupe went over** (R) with the **E high point along Mount Hyland’s S ridge** beyond it. Photo looks SE.

Congratulations, Loopster! Magnificent job! May I shake your paw?

Lupe meekly extended her paw. SPHP shook it, and the Carolina Dog came down off the cairn.

It’s been a long, rocky climb, SPHP! Think I’ve earned a chocolate coconut bar by now, haven’t I?

Yes and no, Loop. We’ll have to talk about that.

Talk about it? What do you mean by that, SPHP? Don’t tell me you didn’t even bring one!

Oh, of course I did, Looper. Have no fear! C’mon, let’s sit down. Guess what? I brought beef jerky, too.

The American Dingo was more than happy to curl up on SPHP’s lap just below the cairn. A chocolate coconut bar, beef jerky, Taste of the Wild, and water feast ensued. SPHP munched on honey-roasted peanuts.

Fog continued to stream by, the only views remaining to the E. Fulton Lake was visible far beyond Peak 7390. Somewhat closer, Chapman Lake was off to the NE, also beyond the Babines.

**Fulton Lake** (L & Center), **Peak 7390** (R). Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Chapman Lake**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

So, what’s there to talk about, SPHP? A shame we arrived too late to see much of anything.

Yeah, it is! Very disappointing! But I did get a glimpse around before we got here, and even while you first stood on the cairn. This isn’t Mount Hyland’s true summit.

What? It isn’t, SPHP?

Sadly, no. That next high point with the boulder is definitely higher. Not by a lot, but maybe 10 feet, or so, plus or minus a bit.

Are we going over there then, SPHP?

No! Not worth it, Loop. We could maybe get over to that big boulder, but even the narrow ridge leading to it looks kind of dicey. From what I saw, I’m highly doubtful we can safely get on top. Too risky to take the chance.

So, I’m not going to get credit for climbing Mount Hyland, SPHP?

That’s what we need to discuss, Loopster. Maybe this is close enough for Dingo work? Technically, from a purist’s standpoint, we clearly can’t claim success, but the cairn is here. Probably a sign that few actually go on to the boulder. Most people that make it this far would likely say they climbed Mount Hyland, and hardly anyone would object.

The earlier sense of elation when it looked like Lupe was about to tag the true summit as she leapt up onto the cairn was gone. Whether or not to call this good, fudging a bit to claim a successful ascent was something to ponder while watching the fog gradually spread. Even Mount Hyland’s S ridge was starting to disappear from view. Kind of concerning in this rugged territory.

Time ticked away. The situation wasn’t getting any better.

Well, what do you think, Loop? How long should we stay up here? Can’t see much. Been hoping the sky would clear, since the forecast was sunny, but it appears to be going the other way.

It’s not cold or windy, SPHP. Can we stay my usual full summit hour, or at least until all the views are gone? Still sort of awesome just being here, isn’t it? Besides, I’m tired, and like resting on your lap.

Yeah, it is cool being here, Loopster, but it’s sure not all it could be due to the fog. Fair enough, though. We’ll stay your whole hour, if the views don’t completely vanish.

40 minutes after arriving at the cairn, fog swept over the entire S ridge. Scarcely any views left now, only the lowlands to the E.

Then suddenly everything changed! Mount Hyland’s SW ridge was in sight! Pyramid Mountain (6,273 ft.) was beyond it. WSW, way over by Smithers, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was in view.

**Mount Hyland’s SW ridge** (foreground), **Pyramid Mountain** (L) beyond it, **Hudson Bay Mountain** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Hudson Bay Mountain** (Center). Photo looks WSW.

The clouds weren’t departing; the ceiling was lifting. Mountains were popping into view all over the place! Mount Elmsted (7,244 ft.) and Lagopus Mountain (6,982 ft.) were to the NW, beyond Mount Hyland’s W ridge. A little farther N, The Galleon (7,844 ft.) was emerging, too!

**Lagopus Mountain** (L of Center), **Mount Hyland’s W ridge** (R) in the foreground with **Mount Elmsted** beyond. **The Galleon** (far R). Photo looks NW.

**The Galleon** (Center). **Mount Hyland’s W ridge** (L), **Mount Elmsted** (far L). Photo looks NW.

**The Galleon** (Center). Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Upon seeing Mount Hyland’s W ridge, SPHP was suddenly confused.

Where are we, Loopster?

What? We’re on Mount Hyland (7,477 ft.), SPHP! Are you OK?

Yeah, but I thought that Mount Hyland’s W ridge connected directly to the summit, Loop, and it doesn’t. At least, it doesn’t connect to where we are.

Are you sure that’s Mount Hyland’s W ridge, SPHP? Maybe you ought to check your topo map?

SPHP did. Yes, that was Mount Hyland’s W ridge, alright. Shaped like the map showed. As the clouds lifted to the N, a stunning revelation!

Good grief, Loopster! We’re nowhere near Mount Hyland’s true summit! It’s way over there!

0.5 km NNW, several more high points were linked not only to the W ridge, but also to the nearby boulder summit by another ridge that was clearly skilled mountaineer territory. The highest N points certainly did look a little higher than where Lupe was, higher even than the boulder summit. Beyond them Mount Cronin (7,861 ft.) was starting to emerge, confirming the diagnosis.

Even Lupe felt dejected.

We’ll never get over there, SPHP!

**Mount Hyland’s true summi**t (L), the **Boulder Summit** (R). Photo looks N.

**Mount Hyland’s true summit** (Center). **Mount Cronin** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Mount Hyland’s true summit** (L) with **Mount Cronin** in the background. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

That was it. Mount Hyland was a fail. No fudging this! The true summit wasn’t that much higher than the cairn Lupe stood on, maybe a mere 20 feet, but even for Dingo work, you can’t be 0.5 km away, and still claim a peakbagging success. A relatively near miss elevation-wise considering the size of the mountain, but such a distance was a killer.

At least we didn’t break our necks trying to get to the boulder summit, SPHP!

No arguing that, Looper! Too scary by our standards.

Coming to Mount Hyland may have been a peakbagging fail, but it was also a tremendous scenic success! Lupe had never been this high, or in such a rugged part of the Babine Mountains before. The views from up here near the heart of the range were awesome, and Lupe’s old friends Astlais Mountain (6,037 ft.) and Big Onion Mountain (5,840 ft.) were in sight, looking diminutive from such a lofty perch.

**Big Onion Mountain** (L of Center) and **Astlais Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

**Big Onion Mountain** (L) and **Astlais Mountain** (R) beyond **Ganokwa Basin**. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The American Dingo lingered long after her traditional summit hour had come and gone. And why not? Conditions were near perfect, wasn’t that late yet, and the rugged beauty of the Babines was all around. Lupe and SPHP both wandered about, gazing at this and that as whim and fancy directed.

**Mount Hyland’s SW ridge** (foreground), **Pyramid Mountain** (L) and **Harvey Mountain** (Center) beyond it, **Hudson Bay Mountain** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Hyland’s W ridge** (Center) in the foreground, **Lagopus Mountain** (far L), **Mount Elmsted** (L), **The Galleon** (R). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

2:49 PM, Mount Hyland (7,477 ft.) – Nearly 2 hours after arriving, Lupe stood on the cairn once hoped, and initially considered to be, the true summit for the last time.

**The Galleon** (L) **Mount Hyland’s true summit** (Center), **Mount Cronin** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Mount Hyland’s true summit** (L) in the foreground, **Mount Cronin** (L of Center), the **boulder summit** (R). Photo looks N.

You still look a little tired, Loop. Are you feeling alright?

Yes, but just thinking about all the zillions of rocks we’ve got to hop on the way back makes me wish we were already down on the tundra with the marmots, SPHP.

At least it’s downhill, Loop. Take one more look at where we are, though! Can’t win ’em all, and for a fail, Mount Hyland has got to be one of our most magnificent ones ever, don’t you think?

Oh, of course! Mount Hyland has been a glorious adventure, SPHP!

No matter how glorious, you can’t stay on the mountain forever. It was time. A final glance around, and Lupe left the cairn, starting the long journey back to her tiny house.

Soon headed down. **E high point on Mount Hyland’s S ridge** (far L), **SW ridge** (far R), **Big Onion Mountain** (R) and **Astlais Mountain** (far R) in the distance. Photo looks SSE.

On the S ridge on the way back. **Astlais Mountain** (far L), **Pyramid Mountain** (Center), **Harvey Mountain** (R), **Hudson Bay Mountain** (far R). Photo looks SW.

The views were spectacular, and the return went fine, at first. Then SPHP stayed up on the S ridge too long before attempting the descent to the central valley. Coming down S of the big wall that jutted out to the W, the terrain was so steep that Lupe got nervous, pawing the back of SPHP’s legs many times, seeking reassurance.

At a safe spot during the scramble down to the central valley. **Pyramid Mountain** (L of Center), **Harvey Mountain** (R of Center), **Hudson Bay Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

Took a long, cautious effort to reach the valley floor, but Lupe got there. The shallow tarn was now ahead. Still plenty of extremely rocky terrain beyond it, but the worst was over.

Down safely, approaching the shallow tarn. Photo looks SE.

At last, the Carolina Dog made it beyond the world of rock. As soon as the first big expanse of green appeared, she was off! Joyful, Lupe raced ahead, roaming freely through the Mount Hyland Dingo Paradise as marmots whistled once more.

SPHP didn’t catch up until the end. The sun was nearly down as, tired and hungry, the American Dingo reached the tiny house. Lupe’s Mount Hyland adventure was over, but what a magnificent day it had been!