2018 Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming & Beyond – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Escape from Big Pryor Mountain, Montana (6-16-18 & 6-17-18)

Part 2 of Day 6 plus Days 7 through 9 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming & Beyond!

Greybull, WY, 6-15-18, mid-afternoon – Renner Butte had saved the day! Lupe had scored a peakbagging success. Happily, there was still time to get into position for Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.) tomorrow, too, even though it was a 2 hour drive away in southern Montana. Lupe and SPHP stopped by the A&W to celebrate Renner Butte with a cheeseburger.

The sky was clouding up. NW of Greybull an approaching storm forced SPHP to pull off the highway to shelter the G6 under a cottonwood tree. A cloudburst ensued with wild wind, small hail, and driving rain. Even in the G6, the hail and thunder made Lupe cringe. Nothing major, though. 10 minutes and it was all over.

At a fuel stop in Lovell came faintly disturbing news. The L rear tire on the G6 needed several psi of air again after having been aired up earlier this morning. Big Pryor Mountain was out in the middle of nowhere. SPHP over-inflated the tire. That ought to do it!

SPHP was being clever, oh, so clever! The tires on the G6 were all near the end of their useful life. New tires were going to happen, but not until after this Dingo Vacation. In the meantime, SPHP was squeezing a little extra mileage out of them. The L rear tire had been leaking slowly for the past couple of months. Until now it had only required a shot of air once a week. Evidently the leak was now worse. A bit worrisome. but the tire really only needed to hold out one more day. After that, Big Pryor Mountain would be over and done with. Nothing else on Lupe’s remaining agenda was so remote.

With the American Dingo’s eager assistance, half a dozen ice cream bars purchased in Lovell were ancient history by the time SPHP turned R (E) off Hwy 310 at Warren 5 miles into Montana. Not much at Warren, mostly industrial stuff and a wide gravel road.

Must have rained hard here, too. The gravel road was soft and wet. Trucks sprayed mud at the G6. SPHP looked for a turn N. The gravel road wound NE giving encouragement several times, but after 5 miles SPHP gave up. The turn couldn’t possibly be this far from the highway.

It wasn’t. Less than 0.25 mile from Hwy 310, there it was. In a low area was an obvious turn N on Rail Bed Road. Doh!

Rail Bed Road was narrower, rockier, and firmer than the wide gravel road had been. No traffic at all. The road was fine for 10 miles, all the way to a junction with Pryor Road. Somewhere along the way, Rail Bed Road had become Pryor Gap Road.

10 miles N of Warren, MT at the junction of Pryor Gap Road (Rail Bed Road) and Pryor Road. Photo looks NE.

Yes, let’s give both roads virtually the same name. That will be helpful! 5 miles farther on, there’s a Pryor Mountain Road, too, to eliminate any confusion. Photo looks SE.

3 miles N of the junction, Lupe entered the Crow Indian Reservation. Pryor Gap Road deteriorated. Stones and potholes!

Apparently the reservation was open range. Cattle were everywhere! Lupe was overjoyed! By the time she reached Pryor Mountain Road, the Carolina Dog was foaming at the mouth. Hundreds of cows had paused their grazing to look up and see what the shrill commotion was about. Only those right along the road had bothered to trot a little farther off into the grasslands to save their hearing.

Gasping for breath, Lupe looked enormously pleased with herself. The only disappointing part was that SPHP wouldn’t let her out of the G6 to pursue a couple of juicy steaks right this very minute! She would have been outnumbered 1,000 to 1, but that didn’t enter into her calculations in the slightest.

Into the trap, 6-15-18, evening – Dennis Poulin had written a trip report on his journey to Big Pryor Mountain back in July, 2011 which included good driving directions. Upon reaching Pryor Mountain Road 15 miles N of Warren, SPHP was fairly certain where Lupe was now. Dennis had come in from the W instead of the S, but this intersection had to be the 16.6 mile point in his access route description. A R (E) turn here would put Lupe on the same track.

SPHP hesitated. Dennis had mentioned that the road got rougher upon entering the Crow Indian Reservation, which it certainly had. How rough was it going to get? Pryor Mountain Road went through another 5.5 miles of reservation E of here before entering the Custer National Forest. Was the road any better there? Dennis hadn’t said. From this junction, it was still nearly 14 miles to where Dennis had parked before making his ascent.

If Pryor Mountain Road wasn’t any worse than Pryor Gap Road had just been, the G6 could make it. Still, this was mighty remote territory. Lupe hadn’t see another vehicle since Warren. That leaky tire was a concern. On the bright side, it hadn’t rained much here. The road was basically dry – just a little damp. The intersection was actually in good shape. On the dark side, a ground fog had settled in since reaching the reservation. What was going to happen?

Looking E along Pryor Mountain Road roughly 15 miles N of Warren. The G6 is pointed N on Pryor Gap Road and needs to turn R (E) here to get to Big Pryor Mountain.

Lupe had come all this way. She was here now, and it was probably now or never. May as well try it. Could always turn around if the road got too bad, right? SPHP made the turn.

Pryor Mountain Road started off fine. Before long, though, it was deteriorating. The road wasn’t rocky, but full of ruts. A high clearance vehicle wouldn’t have had much trouble, but the G6 was forced to straddle the ruts to avoid getting high centered.

Slowly, carefully! The ruts became so deep that turning around was out of the question. The G6 would just get hung up. There were no breaks. Backing up was impossible. Rear visibility was too poor. Only by going forward, could SPHP keep the tires up on the narrow ridges between the deeply churned ruts.

Wow! This would be an absolute quagmire if it rained hard. Probably wouldn’t. Significant rainfall is rare in sagebrush country, although this was the time of year for it. The ground fog lifted, revealing lots of other clouds around. Not good. Not good at all.

The drive was nerve-wracking. To help calm SPHP, Loop about busted a gut barking at the endless herds of cattle. After what seemed like an eternity, but was actually only a couple of miles, the nice ranch Dennis had mentioned appeared on the R. Farther on was a message from the Crow Indian Tribe encouraging SPHP to stay on the road.

SPHP was rapidly coming to the conclusion that the Crow Indians don’t have much of a problem with trespassers who don’t have high clearance, 4WD vehicles.

Made it! When Lupe arrived at the Custer National Forest, it was SPHP’s turn to be overjoyed. USFS Road No. 23085 was in great shape, just as good as anything back home in the Black Hills. What a relief!

Wow! Just look at that gorgeous USFS Road No. 23085 on the L! Oh, yeah, there’s part of **Big Pryor Mountain** and an American Dingo in the picture, too. Photo looks SE.

0.5 mile farther, SPHP stopped at a map kiosk Dennis had mentioned. It didn’t have any maps, except for one that was posted. The kiosk came shortly before a L turn for the Sage Creek Campground.

Big Pryor Mountain from USFS Road No. 23085 at the turn into the Sage Creek campground. Photo looks SE.

Skipping the campground, SPHP drove farther up USFS Road No. 23085. The road climbed steadily while heading SE along Big Pryor Mountain’s N slope. SPHP wanted to get high enough to see what the weather was like. Finally there was a spot where there was a view. Lots of clouds in all directions, but off to the NW, the direction the prevailing winds come from, there was blue sky.

Whew! Excellent! It was going to be OK. No need to flee. In less than 24 hours, Lupe would have climbed Big Pryor Mountain and be out of here. SPHP drove back to a big open gravel site and parked for the night.

Blue sky at the end of the day in the only direction SPHP thought mattered. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Trapped like rats, 6-16-18, 1:38 AM – Rain! SPHP was instantly awake. Not a deluge, but it was raining hard and steady. Make a run for it before Pryor Mountain Road turned into a hopeless quagmire? How long had this been going on? SPHP opened the door of the G6. Lupe darted out into the night. The ground was soaked. Puddles all over the place.

Too late? Pryor Mountain Road had been marginal enough on the way in when it was dry and there was light. The fleeting thought of trying to drive back out in the night during a rainstorm when the ruts were already wet, slick, and turning to deep mud was absurd. That would be nuts, impossible! The G6 would slide into a rut and be hopelessly stuck. Yeah, it was too late. Stuck here now. Better to just wait it out and trust in sagebrush country. Probably just a shower that will be over soon.

It was hard to hold that thought. Lupe came back soaked, but had no trouble dozing peacefully. SPHP didn’t pass out again until 2 hours later. The rain was still coming down.

6-16-18, 6:50 AM – Light out. Not raining, but the sky is totally overcast. Fog hides the upper slopes of Big Pryor Mountain. The sooner the sun returns to burn these clouds away, the better! While the road dries out, Lupe can take on Big Pryor Mountain. Until then, it’s back to sleep!

6-16-18, Noon – Ugh! It rained all morning. Still raining. A patch of blue off to the W an hour ago soon vanished. Not a soul around. Looks like it could rain for a month.

*We’re trapped like rats, aren’t we, SPHP?*

6-16-18, 1:05 PM – Stopped raining 20 minutes ago. A very muddy white truck just drove by. A hole has developed in the clouds overhead. For the last 10 minutes, it’s been almost sunny! Blue sky has reappeared in the W, but can’t seem to make it over here.

6-16-18, 1:12 PM – Two more vehicles just went past, caked in mud to their roofs.

Suddenly, conditions were improving rapidly! Blue skies and sunshine! Of course, so much rain had fallen, escape was impossible. No use even thinking about it, yet. Besides, Lupe still needed to climb Big Pryor Mountain! With a turn of the key, the G6 sprang to life. SPHP drove SE up USFS Road No. 23085 looking for Tie Flat Road.

Big Pryor Mountain, 6-16-18, 2:10 PM – Tie Flat Road was easy to find. A sign for it was on the R (S) side of No. 23085 at a big curve where the road started to level out high on an open ridge. SPHP parked the G6 just past Tie Flat Road along No. 23085. Loop charged out ready for action! Big Pryor Mountain, a huge, long ridge with steep forested slopes loomed to the SW. Snowbanks could be seen near the upper lip of the mountain.

At the junction of USFS Road No. 23085 & Tie Flat Road. Photo looks SW.

*Ahh, this is more like it! At least I’m all rested up and ready to take on Big Pryor Mountain!* Loop at the start of Tie Flat Road. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe hadn’t gone even 0.1 mile along Tie Flat Road when off to the R an overgrown road led through a field of wildflowers and sagebrush toward the forest at the base of Big Pryor Mountain. Two small signs were visible a little way up this road. Lupe and SPHP went to check them out.

One of the signs merely said “No Motor Vehicles” allowed, but the other said Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31. The topo map showed an ice cave near the top of Big Pryor Mountain. Dennis Poulin had mentioned a nice trail to an ice cave just below the summit, too. Most promising!

After barely 0.1 mile on Tie Flat Road, Lupe took a R onto this grassy side road. This is the start of Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31. Photo looks SSW.

*We’re in luck! This must be the way!* Photo looks SSW.

The wildflowers were gorgeous, but the road soon entered a park-like open forest with a carpet of greenery. Lupe gained elevation gradually. The rate of climb steepened shortly before she reached a small clearing.

A sign next to the road Lupe had taken up said “Motorized Route Ends”. Two roads to the R left the clearing heading NW. The upper one had a marker designating it as 2002.1A. The lower one was 2002.A. Another unmarked road left the clearing going SE. Along it, Lupe could see a wooden sign 100 to 120 feet away.

Upon investigation, this sign also said Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31. A faint trail left the road here heading SW along the R edge of a ravine. This trail immediately disappeared among bushes.

Looking NW back toward the small clearing which the first road had entered from the R (NE). The sign for Crater Ice Cave No. 31 is seen on the L.

Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 disappears into bushes starting up Big Pryor Mountain from this 2nd sign. Photo looks WSW.

200 feet (distance not elevation) got Lupe through the bushes. Beyond the bushes, Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 was a good single track. The trail now worked its way up the NE slope of Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.) in a series of long switchbacks.

Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 became a good single track. Lupe easily followed its long switchbacks up Big Pryor Mountain’s forested NE slope.

For a long way, only the forest could be seen. Looper encountered only minor deadfall timber across the lower portions of the trail, and none at all higher up. She had a great time exploring ahead of SPHP.

Lupe had a great time exploring both on and off the trail.

Total elevation gain from where the G6 was parked up to the top of Big Pryor Mountain was a little over 1,700 feet. Loopster gained the great majority of it on the switchbacks. As she got close to the upper edge of the mountain, the forest thinned out. Lupe began to have views of East Pryor Mountain (8,776 ft.) off to the NE, and could sometimes see the G6 far below.

Twice Lupe and SPHP heard voices below. They didn’t sound far off, but no one ever appeared. The trail became fainter again as it finally left the trees. By then it hardly mattered. Lupe didn’t have much farther to go to reach the top of the mountain.

Nearing the upper edge of Big Pryor Mountain’s NE slope Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 becomes fainter as it leaves the forest. Photo looks SE.

Just below the top, Lupe crossed two large snowbanks. This was the area where the ice cave was supposed to be. Loop never actually saw the cave. Perhaps it was hidden beneath the snow? Seemed likely.

Loop crosses a large snowbank that may have been hiding and blocking the entrance to the ice cave. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP had lost whatever remained of Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 by the time Lupe crested the upper edge of Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.). Ahead a vast rolling plain extended far to the S and NW. A cairn with a pole sat 500 feet off to the WSW at the true summit. The American Dingo headed straight for it.

Loop at the true summit of **Big Pryor Mountain**. The high ground in the distance on the R is the location of the **Shriver Benchmark**. Photo looks NW.

A road next to the summit cairn sported yet another sign for Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 as it headed off to the N. So much for SPHP’s tracking abilities!

Loop by a 3rd sign for Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31.

Looper checked out the huge summit cairn before taking a sniff around looking for a survey benchmark. The Ice Cave benchmark was easily found 10 feet E of the cairn.

At the huge summit cairn. The apparently higher ground seen on the L is an illusion magnified by the use of the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNW.

Shriver Benchmark (Center) appears higher. but is actually 6 feet lower according to the topo map. Perspective is again distorted by the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

The Ice Cave survey benchmark is only 10 feet E of the cairn. Photo looks W.

A 10 mph SW breeze blew as Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a short break. The giant open plain provided sweeping views in all directions.

Looking ENE toward **East Pryor Mountain**, another vast ridge only 10 feet lower than Big Pryor Mountain.

Looking SE toward the **Bighorn Mountains** in Wyoming.

Lupe journeyed a little S from the cairn for a better view of Big Pryor Mountain’s long S ridge.

**Big Pryor Mountain**‘s long SSE ridge. Photo looks S.

With such a huge mountaintop to explore, Lupe didn’t want to spend all her time just hanging around the summit cairn. Big Pryor Mountain has a 2nd high point only 6 feet lower at the Shriver Benchmark (8,780 ft.) more than a mile to the NW. Wandering over that way looked like fun.

*Yeah, we’re going over there next!* **Shriver Benchmark** area from the Big Pryor Mountain summit cairn. Photo looks NW.

A jeep trail headed NW toward the Shriver Benchmark area. Lupe stuck with it part of the way, but this was super easy terrain. For the most part she traveled S of the road exploring this and that.

Loop by a big puddle on the way to Shriver Benchmark (R). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the Shriver Benchmark area, it dawned on SPHP that Lupe might have a very hard time finding the actual benchmark. There was a tremendous amount of open ground to explore all at nearly the exact same elevation.

As Lupe got closer, she could see a couple of small rock outcroppings near each other at what appeared to be the highest point. The first thing to try was to check out those rocks.

Loop astride one of two small rock outcroppings which seemed to be at the high point of the Shriver Benchmark area. Photo looks W.

Lupe hopped up on one of the two rocks. She instantly spotted a survey benchmark right next to her on a slightly lower rock!

*And you thought I’d never find it! Looky there, SPHP!* Lupe finds a survey benchmark right next to the first rock she jumped up on. The true summit of Big Pryor Mountain is over at the high ground seen in the distance on the R. Photo looks SE.

OK, so that was ridiculously easy, but the survey benchmark Lupe had found wasn’t the actual Shriver Benchmark, but Shriver No. 2.

An arrow on Shriver Benchmark No. 2 pointed WSW toward another group of rocks. Even though these rocks were clearly lower, when Lupe got over to them she quickly found the actual Shriver Benchmark.

Lupe at the actual Shriver Benchmark. It’s right in front of her, but not easily seen in this photo. Photo looks N.

At the same spot. **Shriver Benchmark** is now easily seen in front of Lupe.

Finding the actual **Shriver Benchmark** seen here was much easier than expected.

Lupe had accomplished what she’d set out to do. However, she could see more rocks off to the NW. Maybe Shriver Benchmark No. 1 was over there? Since it was such a nice day now and she had nothing but time, she might as well go take a look.

Sure enough, Shriver Benchmark No. 1 was at the second group of rocks she came to.

Shriver Benchmark No. 1 is visible in Lupe’s shadow. Photo looks W.

Shriver Benchmark No. 1 was as far as Lupe was going. She took a break while SPHP admired the views.

Taking it easy by Shriver Benchmark No. 1. Photo looks N.

View to the SW from Shriver Benchmark No. 1.

Having been to all 3 Shriver Benchmarks now, it still seemed like the first couple of rocks over at Shriver Benchmark No. 2 were the actual high point. On the way back, Lupe returned to stand on the second of those two rocks, in case it was a bit higher than the first one she’d tried.

Back at Shriver Benchmark No. 2, but on the other rock. The true summit of Big Pryor Mountain (Center) is in the distance beyond Lupe. Photo looks SE.

The late afternoon trek back to the true summit of Big Pryor Mountain was relaxing and gorgeous. By the time Lupe got to the cairn, clouds were gathering off to the NW.

Back at the cairn after a lovely excursion to Shriver Benchmark. Photo looks NW.

The clouds would take a while to get here, but Lupe didn’t linger much longer up on Big Pryor Mountain. Mainly because she was eager to get back to the forest to search for squirrels.

The long switchbacks on Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 made the descent pleasant and easy. Lupe had a blast! All too soon, she was trotting out into the field of wildflowers and sagebrush near Tie Flat Road.

Back on Crater Ice Cave Trail No. 31 during the descent.

A typical view of Looper leading the way.

*Well, we’re back below the little clearing again now. Our Big Pryor Mountain adventure won’t be over when we get to the G6, though! Wonder if SPHP has thought of a way out of our predicament?*

Wildflowers and sagebrush nearing Tie Flat Road.

Big Pryor Mountain and the Shriver Benchmark were fun! Now for the great escape!

6-16-18, 7:04 PM, 59°F back at USFS Road No. 23085 – Big Pryor Mountain had been a wonderful respite from the increasingly critical issue of how to get out of here. When Loopster reached the G6 again, the L rear tire pressure was down to 28 psi. Fine and dandy for the moment, only 2 psi below the recommended 30. Yet it was nothing to be complacent about. The pressure was down 12 psi from the 40 SPHP had overinflated it to only yesterday.

The brilliant plan SPHP had formulated by now was mighty thin gruel. Expecting to see a complete quagmire, Lupe was going to head back to the edge of the Crow Indian Reservation to see what condition the road out was in, then SPHP would drive over to the Sage Creek Campground to see if anyone there had any ideas.

So Loopster leapt into the G6 to enjoy a comfy ride atop her pillows and blankets. SPHP began driving back down USFS Road No. 23085. A few miles later, suddenly the dash flashed a warning. 0 psi! Oh, joy! That dang L rear tire must have finally completely blown out.

If only! The news was worse than that. When SPHP got out, the leaky L rear tire looked the same, but the L front tire was totally shot. Superb! Two bad tires now. One completely useless, and another destined to be within another day or two, if Lupe couldn’t get back to civilization. Loop lounged about near the side of the road while SPHP unloaded enough stuff out of the trunk to dig out the G6’s rinky-dink spare donut tire and required tools to swap it for the flat.

20 minutes later the job was done. The pathetic, but necessary donut was on. The flat was in the back seat. The G6 had even less clearance now than before. SPHP finally engaged a brain cell. It was idiotic to put the donut on the front! The G6 was front wheel drive. It would be far better to have a wider, taller tire up front. A regular tire would provide way more clearance and traction than the skinny little donut of doom, and would be far easier to keep up on the ridges between the ruts in the terrible road to freedom.

Alright. One more time. SPHP took the donut off and returned the flat to the L front position. SPHP then removed all the lug nuts from the R rear wheel intending to put the donut back there prior to moving the R rear tire to the L front. The lug nuts were almost impossible to loosen, but by jumping up and down on a little crow bar, SPHP got it done. Hah! Take that, uncooperative beast!

Nah. Even with all the lug nuts off, the R rear wheel was frozen in place. Probably hadn’t been off since the tire was brand new. No matter what SPHP did, the wheel wouldn’t break loose. Simply grand!

Well, even the leaky L rear tire was a better choice for up front than the dang donut of doom. The R rear lug nuts went back on. Another battle ensued with the L rear lug nuts, but they also yielded to the crow bar. Same result. That wheel wasn’t budging either. No alternative. The donut had to go back up front. Sheesh!

The sun had set by the time it was all done. Onward! The G6 charged down USFS Road No. 23085. Light was fading as the American Dingo reached the Crow Indian Reservation. Ahead were endless huge mud puddles. The G6 negotiated the first one. No way! This was madness. SPHP chickened out and backed up before it was too late. Yeah, better go check out Sage Creek campground, and see if someone there had any suggestions.

The campground was only a mile away. Summertime! But Lupe arrived at dusk to find Sage Creek Campground totally deserted.

The Great Escape, 6-17-18, 6:35 AM – The world was gray. A light mist was falling. No one else had shown up overnight. L rear tire at 25 psi. Still good for now. If the weather had been better, maybe Lupe would have gone on to East Pryor Mountain, but other trip reports SPHP had seen had indicated that taking the G6 on that road wouldn’t have been a good idea. In any case, East Pryor Mountain was a long march farther yet from civilization.

During breakfast, SPHP pondered the options. There weren’t that many. Probably time to admit defeat. Progressive Insurance had been taking SPHP’s money for years. Lupe had roadside assistance! Maybe it was time to give Flo a call and see what she could do? A flatbed tow truck that could keep the G6 up out of the mud of the Crow Indian Reservation would be ideal.

6-17-18, 7:10 AM – Flo, Flo! See how you are? Flo wasn’t answering. How could she? SPHP had no cell phone service. Looked like Loopster was in for a ride. If the Carolina Dog could get high enough, Flo would pick up. In no particular rush, SPHP got things ready to go.

6-17-18, 8:28 AM – L rear tire at 24 psi. Steady rain. Situation not getting any better. Loop and SPHP left Sage Creek Campground. Back up USFS Road No. 23085! SPHP stopped at several high points, but Lupe made it all the way to the highest spot on No. 23085 beyond Tie Flat Road. Nada! No phone service anywhere. L rear tire at 21 psi. More rain.

One more possibility. From up on Big Pryor Mountain yesterday, Lupe had seen another road heading down into the canyon S of the big saddle over to East Pryor Mountain. That road had to connect to No. 23085 only a bit farther ahead. Maybe it was another way out? Even if it was, this alternate route had to be many miles back to a highway. The chances that it would be passable for the G6 the entire way weren’t good at all.

May as well check it out while the L rear tire still had some pressure. Couldn’t hurt.

Crooked Creek Road is actually a continuation of No. 23085. It was a sharp R turn at the junction with USFS Road No. 2849 leading to East Pryor Mountain. No. 23085 was narrower here, but in encouragingly good shape as Lupe and SPHP started down. Lupe had gone only a mile or so, when suddenly there was an amazing sight. Off to the R (W) were 4 big white pickup trucks and a trailer! Several large tents were set up among the trees. A big group of people were out in the rain, apparently packing up to leave.

Lupe and SPHP met Chris, a land surveyor and scout master of Boy Scout Troop No. 27 out of Billings, Montana. Chris and some others had come up Crooked Creek Road from Cowley, Wyoming to spend the weekend, but the rain was chasing them out. Chris described the road up as dicey in spots even in his huge truck. He’d had to charge through several points fast to avoid the possibility of sliding off the “edge”.

Fabulous! Crooked Creek Road was officially eliminated as an escape route for the measly G6.

Incredibly, Chris had found cell phone service from a high point 100 yards back up Crooked Creek Road. However, if Lupe and SPHP would like a ride to Bridger, Montana, the entirety of Boy Scout Troop No. 42 would soon be departing back out through the Crow Indian Reservation on Pryor Mountain Road.

A moment’s hesitation allowed sufficient time for a thorough review of all options. SPHP accepted.

15 minutes later, it was on! The G6 got abandoned back at the Sage Creek Campground. Lupe, SPHP, a duffel bag and the backpack all made it into Chris’s truck. The G6’s flat tire was tossed in back. A caravan of 4 white trucks, one pulling a large trailer, left Sage Creek Campground and headed for Pryor Mountain Road.

The American Dingo was going mudding!

Huge sprays of water and mud went up as the trucks charged ahead from one deeply rutted muddy trench to the next. Chris couldn’t begin to keep the giant tires of his truck out of the ruts. The truck lurched from side to side, but the caravan kept moving. It would have been a month before the G6 could have gotten through under its own power.

At Bridger, Boy Scout Troop No. 27 stopped at a Conoco station. SPHP thanked Chris for the ride. Soon Lupe and SPHP were hobos sitting alone at a red picnic table outside the gas station – the flat tire, duffel bag, and backpack as sole possessions. The Conoco station had a tire store connected to it. Sunday, though. The tire store was closed.

Well, time for that little chat with Flo! SPHP called Progressive. Flo didn’t answer, but Brenda did. Brenda was wonderfully cooperative. She took down all the information and wrote up a service ticket. The G6 was 27 miles from pavement. Progressive would pay for 15 miles of off highway towing. The rest was on SPHP. Got that? Yes, understandable. Was the G6 unlocked with the keys in it? Uh, no. Oh, well, just call back then when it was.

SPHP explained that wasn’t possible. No way to get back there, and no way to call even if Lupe did. No problem, though. The tow truck coming from Billings would go right through Bridger. The driver could stop at the Conoco station and pick Lupe and SPHP up.

Uh-uh. That was prohibited under the terms of the service contract between Progressive and the towing company. No stops allowed anywhere except at the disabled vehicle. Brenda put the service ticket on hold. Call back when the G6 was unlocked with the keys in it. Meanwhile, have a great day!

The girls at the register in the Conoco station had an idea. Carbon Towing was right here in Bridger. They’d probably give Lupe and SPHP a ride out to the Sage Creek Campground, then call Progressive for SPHP when they got back to town. That might work! SPHP took a business card with a 24/7 emergency call number.

Steven answered on a Sunday afternoon. Don’t bother with all that! Steven knew where Sage Creek Campground was. Carbon Towing could do the job! They had a flatbed tow truck and could retrieve the G6 now. Progressive would still cover it. $350. No sales tax in Montana, either. How about it?

Sounded good. The price was a bargain considering what had to be done. SPHP would call Steven back in a few minutes after checking with Brenda at Progressive first. If Flo was chipping in, it was a go!

Brenda didn’t answer. This time it was Pat. SPHP explained the whole glorious situation all over again. Pat said no problem if SPHP wanted to use Carbon Towing. Progressive would reimburse all covered charges. She explained what information would be needed to submit a claim. SPHP called Steven. Get that flatbed tow truck, and come on over to the Conoco station!

Oh, Loopster! Seems like maybe we’re getting somewhere.

15 minutes later, a Carbon Towing truck showed up. It wasn’t a flatbed, just a regular wrecker. The driver wasn’t Steven, but his brother-in-law Ben.

Ben was fine; the regular wrecker wasn’t. SPHP described the situation. The G6 couldn’t be drug for more than 5.5 miles through those deep ruts in Pryor Mountain Road. The rear bumper would be a road grader! No telling what damage that might do! A flatbed tow truck was needed to keep the G6 up out of the mud, and avoid totaling it. For pity sake!

Calmly, Ben explained. Yes, Carbon Towing has a flatbed tow truck. It is only 2WD. It will get stuck on Pryor Mountain Road, so Carbon Towing wasn’t taking it out there. The regular wrecker was 4WD and could do the job. Ben had brought a dolly assembly, sort of a miniature trailer that the G6’s back tires would rest on. The dolly would raise the tires 6 inches. Should work with minimal damage, if any, to the G6.

6 inches? Was Ben crazy? 2 or 3 feet would be more like it. SPHP again expressed reservations. Need a flatbed truck. Looking to rescue the G6, not tear it to pieces.

Ben replied. Carbon Towing does not have a 4WD flatbed tow truck. If SPHP wanted to search around for a company that does, good luck. The regular wrecker combined with the dolly would get the job done.

SPHP had another go. Ben didn’t realize what it was like out there. Dolly or no dolly, the regular wrecker wasn’t going to be adequate.

Slowly, calmly, deliberately, in a voice devoid of emotion, Ben launched into a speech. It was a fine speech, one he had delivered many times.

I am here as your Carbon Towing professional. It is my job to use my best judgement as an experienced towing professional to retrieve your disabled vehicle while ensuring absolute minimal damage possible under any and all circumstances that may arise.

It went on like that a little longer. When Ben was done, SPHP made him repeat it.

Ben stood waiting for a response. Decision time. Check into a motel in Bridger for the night and ponder some more, or see what fate had in store for the G6 in Carbon Towing’s hands?

It wasn’t going to get any better, was it? Alright. Lupe leapt up into the cab of the Carbon Towing wrecker like it was second nature. Going mudding again!

Ben had another quick service call to make. A lady had locked her keys into her vehicle at the Maverick Station. Ben had the door open and the vehicle unlocked in practically no time. The 27 mile drive back out to the Sage Creek Campground began. In 4WD the wrecker slid around in the ruts on Pryor Mountain Road, but made it through.

Half an hour after reaching Sage Creek Campground, Ben had chains on the wrecker, and the G6 sitting up on the dolly. SPHP remained filled with doubt, but the situation did look better than expected. Back into the cab of the wrecker! Lupe was going mudding on Pryor Mountain Road for the 3rd time today.

Lupe, Ben from Carbon Towing, and the G6 at Sage Creek Campground.

Lupe sat on SPHP’s lap looking out the windows as mud splashed and the wrecker jerked from side to side. At 10 miles per hour, Ben and SPHP chatted. Ben drove with his eye on the rear view mirror the whole time.

Lupe was only a little way into the Crow Indian Reservation when Ben said we’ve lost a strap, stopped, and got out into the mud. All four tires of the G6 were strapped to the dolly. The ruts in the road were so deep, the mud was still up to the tires, putting torque on them to spin them, which loosened the straps. Ben returned a few minutes later saying 2 straps had come off, but they were back on now.

Stop and go! The straps came off repeatedly. Time after time, Ben marched back through the mud to put them back on. Lupe was only a mile back into the Crow Indian reservation when Ben, still staring at the rear view mirror, suddenly exclaimed:

Son of a monkey!

Ben stepped out of the wrecker and was gone. After little while, SPHP could see Ben in the rear view mirror. He had come around to the passenger side of the wrecker. Ben was hunched down in the mud like he was doing deep knee bends, pushing and pulling with all his might. Ben went from one side of the G6 to the other, always pushing and pulling down in the mud. He must have been gone half an hour while Lupe and SPHP remained in the cab. Finally, he returned.

The ruts were so deep, the ridges were pushing on the dolly bar, forcing it to act as a road grader. Force on the tires of the G6 spun the wheels. The whole dolly assembly had been coming apart. Ben had had to let the G6 down into the mud, rebuild the dolly assembly, then get the G6 back up onto it. How on earth he had been able to do all that was beyond SPHP’s imagination, but Lupe was underway again.

Straps kept coming loose. Ben kept stopping to march back through the mud to reattach them. Lupe was a little more than halfway through the Crow Indian Reservation, when the dolly fell apart a second time. Once again, Ben vanished. More pushing and pulling in a sea of mud.

Ben was gone even longer this time. Finally Ben reappeared by Lupe’s window. SPHP needed to come out and take a look. Loop leapt into the mud, too. Back at the G6, Ben explained. He had done his absolute best, but the ruts were so deep the ridges wouldn’t let him pass the dolly’s bars beneath the G6. He could not reassemble the dolly.

Ben said that the ruts didn’t look quite as bad up ahead. With SPHP’s permission, he could drag the G6 another 200 yards, and try again. Yes, the G6’s rear bumper would now be a road grader. Couldn’t be helped. Ben pointed out that the ground was soft, and not too rocky. Damage should be minimal. What did SPHP want to do?

Heh. What a great choice! Abandon the G6 sunk to the axles in the middle of Pryor Mountain Road where the July sun would eventually bake it in as a permanent feature, or drag it as a road grader however far it took to get to where the dolly could be reassembled?

The situation wasn’t entirely unexpected. SPHP seemed to recall certain fears expressed back in Bridger. It was sort of a miracle things had gone this well this far. On the other hand, Ben had certainly gone over and above any reasonable call of duty, spending the entire afternoon in a sea of muck. He had even assured SPHP that Carbon Towing would hold to their $350 quoted charge. No doubt if Ben ever had to do this again, he would add a zero or quit life as a towing professional entirely. Get a nice office job somewhere.

No need to think about it. Only one answer. Onward!

One by one, Ben heaved the heavy metal mud-caked pieces of the dolly up onto the wrecker. Lupe, SPHP and Ben all scrambled back into the cab. Movement was all that mattered. 200 or 300 yards farther, Ben submitted to another session in the muck. The dolly got reassembled. The G6 back up on it. Underway again!

Straps kept falling off. The dolly fell apart a third time. 4.5 hours after leaving Bridger, Ben was in cell phone range. Steven and Ben’s wife both called. What on earth was going on? Ben assured them he had it all under control. Another hour or two and he’d be back in Bridger.

So it went. At last, the intersection of Pryor Mountain Road and Pryor Gap Road, where SPHP had made such a crazy fateful decision 2 days ago, appeared ahead. Ben turned S. After going a mile, he stopped. The G6 could make it the rest of the way on its own from here. Glory be! Was it true?

Ben disassembled the dolly. The G6 was back on Pryor Gap Road. Ben aired the 19 psi leaky rear L tire up to 33 psi. A credit card and Ben was able to process payment on the spot. Ben still had work to do, but Lupe and SPHP were free to go.

The rear bumper was deformed, but the G6 still functioned. It limped into Bridger at 35 to 40 mph on the donut tire. A car wash received a large delivery of Pryor Mountain Road mud. Cars zoomed past as the G6 crept toward Billings at the same pitiful speed, but Lupe got there. Her escape from Big Pryor Mountain was now but a memory.

6-18-18 – Lupe seemed to enjoy wandering past ritzy cafes and art shops in downtown Billings! The G6 was getting 4 new tires, a tie rod, and an alignment. The technician later expressed wonder at the amount of mud and debris packed into what appeared to be brand new front brakes and rotors. He had cleaned it all out.

If the sky hadn’t darkened and the rain begun to pour down, Lupe might have continued her 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Beyond. As it was, the day was spent cruising E on I-90 on the best tires the G6 had had in years. A little before 8:00 PM, Lupe was back home in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Several weeks later, a check arrived from Progressive Insurance. That Flo was quite a gal! She had reimbursed the entire $350 towing charge, not just some reduced “covered” amount.

No doubt all’s well that ends well. Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.) had been an incredible experience. SPHP was glad Lupe had been there. Even so, chances are the American Dingo won’t ever visit the summit of East Pryor Mountain.

Lupe, Ben & the G6 at the end of Lupe’s escape from Big Pryor Mountain, Montana 6-17-18

Links:

Carbon Towing on Facebook

Progressive Insurance

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Renner Butte, the Washakie County, Wyoming Prominence Peak (6-15-18)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming & Beyond!

7:07 AM, 42°F, along USFS Road No. 11 a bit N of a cattle guard between the NW & SE summits of Duncum Mountain – Last evening’s NE breeze and dense fog had been a temporary phenomenon. The SW wind which had prevailed for days was back, reasserting itself with a vengeance. No mere breeze now, wispy remnants of fog sailed over Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.) at a tremendous pace, driven by a 30 mph gale.

Leaving the G6, even for a few minutes, was simply unpleasant. The cold wind was annoyingly strong. The morning sky a drab, depressing gray. 5 miles to the SW, the summit of Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) was lost in clouds.

The plan for the day had been to head N. The intrepid Carolina Dog was supposed to climb Sheep Mountain (9,813 ft.), then continue on to the Bighorn County High Point (9,257 ft.) just across the Montana border. Although there were roads to get close to these places, the G6 wouldn’t be able to manage them. Lupe had a long day ahead of her traveling many miles along an exposed 9,000 foot ridge.

Yeah, right. In this weather? The plan for the day was ludicrous. The American Dingo wouldn’t put up with it for 10 minutes, and rightly so. In complete agreement, SPHP fired up the G6 and drove S on USFS Road No. 11. This was it. Lupe was on her way out of the Bighorns. Upon reaching Hwy 14A, SPHP turned R heading W for Lovell.

6,000 feet lower at Lovell, this was an overcast, but otherwise pleasant June morning. SPHP fueled the G6, and aired up a tire with a slow leak. Time for Plan B! Lupe headed S on Hwy 310. While conditions way up in the Bighorns weren’t much fun, this might well be the perfect day for Renner Butte (5,445 ft.)!

Lupe had visited Wyoming’s Washakie County High Point in 2016. It was way up at 9,600 feet elevation in the southern Bighorns very close to Hwy 16. Yet Renner Butte, a mere foothill SW of the main Bighorn Range is Washakie County’s most prominent peak. Peakbagging hero Edward Earl had been to Renner Butte in 2009. A copy of his trip report with excellent directions to the general area was going to help Lupe get to the top of Renner Butte, too.

Renner Butte is something like 75 miles SE of Lovell. Paved highways all the way to Hyattville, though. Lupe kept a keen nose and sharp eye out for cows and horses along the way, but even livestock was scarce in this classic western sagebrush desert.

Paved Hwy 31 ended just S of Hyattville, becoming gravel County Road No. 849. Lupe was now only 7 or 8 miles from Renner Butte. Time to start paying attention to Edward Earl’s directions!

Earl mentioned two forks in CR No. 49 [sic] just S of Hyattville. Staying L at the first one brought Lupe to the critical junction. Here, Renner Butte was to the R on Hyattville Road.

*Renner Butte is this way!* Lupe at the fork in CR-49 [sic] 0.7 mile S of Hyattville mentioned in Edward Earl’s trip report. Stay to the R where Loop is to get to Renner Butte. Photo looks SE.

Signs at the fork 0.7 mile S of Hyattville. Stay to the R on Hyattville Road here.

Hyattville Road went SSE. After a few miles Cedar Mountain (5,711 ft.) was in sight off to the E. Cedar Mountain is higher than Renner Butte, but in Bighorn County, not Washakie County. Renner Butte was the next mountain farther SSE. Soon Lupe could see Renner Butte, too.

Approaching **Renner Butte** (Center). Photo looks SE.

Half a dozen miles from the end of the pavement was a battered sign for the Renner Wildlife Habitat Management Area. Below the sign an arrow pointed L. A sharp NE turn off Hyattville Road onto County Road No. 54 was just ahead.

The sharp NE turn to Renner Butte is seen just ahead on the L. Photo looks SSE along Hyattville Road.

SPHP was driving too fast, and missed the turn. The Washakie County line was less than 0.1 mile farther, confirming the location. SPHP turned the G6 around and went back to CR 54.

At the turn onto County Road No. 54 (R) into the Renner Wildlife Habitat Management Area. This turn is barely N of the Bighorn County/Washakie County line. **Cedar Mountain** is in view on the R. Photo looks N along Hyattville Road (L).

Looking E from the junction of Hyattville Road & CR 54 into the Renner Wildlife Habitat Management Area. Below is the irrigated green field where Edward Earl had driven past some cows. Renner Butte is on the R.

County Road No. 54 curved through the N end of an irrigated field where Edward Earl had encountered some cattle. Lupe was disappointed that no cows were in sight today. On the far side of the field, the road turned E at the county line, then NE starting up into Ziesman Canyon.

A mile from Hyattville Road, SPHP drove past a barbed wire gate across a side road S of CR 54. The G6 got parked a little farther on, beyond a cattle guard Edward Earl had mentioned, at the same grassy spot along the N side of CR 54 where Edward had parked. Loopster bounded out ready for some Renner Butte action! (11:21 AM, 73°F)

The first order of business was a short hike SW back along CR 54 to the side road with the barbed wire gate.

Lupe on CR 54 as it enters Ziesman Canyon. The G6 is seen parked where Edward Earl parked. Loop is next to the turn S (R) onto the side road leading to Renner Butte. Photo looks NE.

At the start of the side road. This is **Point 4567** on the **topo map**. Photo looks SW.

After going through the gate, Lupe followed the side road up onto a low sagebrush covered ridge. She soon came to an intersection where she stayed to the L.

The road followed ridges and hills SE at first, but curved back toward the NE before too long. Though there were a few dips, Looper was gaining elevation most of the time. The American Dingo came to a high point from which she could see N into surprisingly colorful Ziesman Canyon.

Looking NNE over **Ziesman Canyon** toward **Cedar Mountain** (Center).

Renner Butte appeared as a series of cedar covered hills to the SE.

**Renner Butte** from the NW. Photo looks SE.

Except when SPHP led her to nearby viewpoints, Lupe never left the road as it wound through grasslands dotted with sagebrush. The grass hid lots of cactus, and rattlesnakes were a potential deadly threat.

The day was getting sunnier. Though the temperature was only in the low 70’s, it felt hot trudging uphill. Lupe and SPHP stopped several times for water.

Another look at **Ziesman Canyon** (L) and **Cedar Mountain** (Center). Photo looks N.

Lupe stayed on the road nearly all the time. The tall grass hid lots of spiny cactus.

The road ultimately headed E for the N end of Renner Butte.

Approaching **Renner Butte**. Photo looks E.

When Lupe reached the cedars, she discovered they weren’t tall enough to shade the road. Another discovery was that the cedars apparently suck up nearly all available water. The ground between them was often quite bare. Far less sagebrush, grass, or even cactus grew up here among the cedars than down below. SPHP still discouraged Lupe from leaving the road. The whole region looked like prime rattler country.

From the N end of the ridgeline, Lupe still had to travel nearly a mile SE to get to the summit of Renner Butte (5,445 ft.). The ridge hike featured beautiful red and white rock formations.

The trek SE along Renner Butte’s ridgeline was quite scenic. Photo looks SE.

**Nipple Knob** wasn’t far from the road. Photo looks W.

The SW side of Renner Butte has several large ravines like this one with dramatically eroded white rocks. Photo looks S.

Along the highest part of the ridge, the road stayed near the NE edge of Renner Butte. Although the topo map showed the road going right over the 5,445 foot summit, all the highest ground was clearly SW of the road. Lupe had seen at least 3 separate high points about the same elevation, each separated by several hundred feet. The topo map appeared to be in error. Every one of these high points was well SW of the road.

Fearing snakes for Lupe’s sake, SPHP didn’t like having to leave the road, but the high ground was only a few hundred feet away. As Lupe headed for the southernmost high point, SPHP scouted ahead staying on bare ground away from the cedars as much as possible.

Lupe on her way to the southernmost high point SW of the road. Photo looks SW.

The southernmost high point looked like it might be the true summit of Renner Butte. Lupe discovered a large, crudely built cairn here. SPHP figured this had to be the large cairn Edward Earl had mentioned.

Lupe reaches the large crudely built cairn at the southernmost high point. This might well be Renner Butte’s true summit. Photo looks NNE.

A closer look with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

Looking SW. The large cairn (lower R) almost appears to be a natural formation from this angle.

The Bighorn Range from near the large cairn. Photo looks ENE.

Clearly, there wasn’t any higher ground on Renner Butte (5,445 ft.) E or S of where the large cairn sat. However, the two other high points Lupe had noticed from the road were visible back to the NW. Situated near the SW edge of the ridge, they both still appeared to be very nearly the same elevation.

From close to the large cairn at the southernmost high point, two more high points (L & Center) could be seen off to the NW. Both had to be considered in contention for true summit of **Renner Butte**. Photo looks NNW.

Of course, Lupe had to visit these other potential true summits as well. She set off heading N along the SW edge of Renner Butte.

The terrain soon brought Looper so close to the road again, that she crossed it to have a look at the views to the N and E while she was still up here. Stock Pond 4831 and a seasonal lake SE of Renner Reservoir could be seen in a wide valley below.

From E of the road, a seasonal lake SE of unseen Renner Reservoir is in view. Part of the E flank of Cedar Mountain is visible on the L. Photo looks N.

**Stock Pond 4831** is on the R. Photo looks ESE.

As Lupe returned to the SW side of the road, expectations rose. At one of the next two high points, the Carolina Dog ought to find the 5 stone cairn Edward Earl had personally constructed!

Despite a seemingly thorough search, the central high point disappointed. No sign of a cairn at all.

Loopster at the central high point. The southernmost HP where the large cairn was is on the L. Photo looks SSE.

Cactus wasn’t as prevalent on top of Renner Butte as lower down, but it still had to be watched for to help keep Lupe out of trouble.

SPHP was now nearly certain Looper would find Edward Earl’s 5 stone cairn at the northernmost high point! However, when she got there, no cairn was in sight. Lupe did find a couple of different groups of 5 white stones. Perhaps one of them was Edward’s cairn? If so, the cairn had toppled over sometime during the past 9+ years.

Remnant of Edward Earl’s 5 stone cairn at the northernmost high point?

So disappointing! With hope fading, Lupe and SPHP continued NW until it became clear there was no more high ground to explore. Lupe saw more rocks, but never did find Edward’s cairn.

More rocks, but no cairn. Photo looks SE.

Loop reaches the end of the high ground. Photo looks NW.

Either SPHP hadn’t permitted Lupe to search sufficiently, or Edward’s handiwork was no more. Kind of sad. However, it had still been fun to follow his directions to seldom visited Renner Butte. Somewhere along the way, at one of the 3 high points Lupe had checked out, she had surely made it to the top of Washakie County, Wyoming’s most prominent peak.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the road. The sky, which had been fairly sunny earlier, was now clouding up. A 10 mph NW breeze helped make the downhill return trek back to the G6 pleasant. Trotting happily amid panoramas of arid western scenery, Lupe found many delicate, beautiful living things not yet withered by the coming scorching heat of mid-summer days. (2:19 PM, 73°F)

A surprising variety of stunning flowers grew alongside the road.

*Oh, there’s nothing quite like being out West, is there?*

A delicate, intricate, splash of yellow.

An unexpected profusion of bright pink blossoms.

So this is it from the road to Renner Butte! It was a perfect day to visit Washakie County, Wyoming’s most prominent peak. Sure beat being battered by cold winds high up in the Bighorn Mountains! Hope you return for more Lupe adventures soon! 6-15-18

Links:

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Bucking Mule Falls, Porcupine Falls & Duncum Mountain, Bighorn Range, Wyoming (6-14-18)

Day 6 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming & Beyond!

1:50 AM at a dispersed camping site near USFS Road No. 11, 1.5 miles N of Highway 14A in the northern Bighorns – The wind hadn’t died down at sunset as expected, yet it was warm in the G6. Too warm. Hot and thirsty, Lupe lay panting hard on her pile of pillows and blankets. She eagerly lapped up the water SPHP gave her. The Carolina Dog coughed as some of it went down the wrong pipe. SPHP opened the door, and a cool breeze flooded in. Relief!

The next time SPHP woke up, it was light out, but still early. Lupe left the G6 to sniff the air. Yesterday hadn’t been all that difficult, but SPHP still felt worn down. Too much sun and wind.

More snoozing. Even Loop seemed content to gaze out the window or doze. She chased a tennis ball a few times, but that was it. Most of a breezy, leisurely morning passed by before action sounded good again.

Happily, nothing too strenuous was on the agenda. Two of the biggest, most scenic waterfalls in the Bighorn Range weren’t far from here. Lupe could go see both of them! Maybe she would even have time enough to climb Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.) late in the day? USFS Road No. 11 passes over a saddle near the summit. Despite Duncum’s 871 feet of prominence, an ascent wouldn’t involve much more than an easy stroll.

SPHP drove 1.5 miles N on USFS Road No. 11 to an intersection with USFS Road No. 14. Another 6 or 7 miles NW on No. 14 got Lupe to the big Bucking Mule Falls trailhead parking lot at the end of the road. No one was around when Lupe hopped out of the G6. (10:43 AM, 68°F)

Lupe arrives at the Bucking Mule Falls trailhead in the northern Bighorn Mountains.

Part of a map of the general vicinity posted at the trailhead.

The trail to the Bucking Mule Falls overlook is about 2 miles long. Lupe soon found it along the W side of the parking lot.

Loopster about to head for Bucking Mule Falls.

As Lupe and SPHP set out, the trail entered a lodgepole pine forest.

The trail to Bucking Mule Falls passes through a lodgepole pine forest.

The trail went gradually downhill most of the time. The forest was open enough to see quite a way through it, but Lupe had no distant views.

On a level stretch. Most of the time Lupe was gradually losing elevation.

After a mile or so, switchbacks went down a steeper slope. Lupe soon arrived at Big Tepee Creek. The creek was 1.2 trail miles from the start. Lupe cooled her paws off and got a drink.

1.2 miles into the trek, Loop cools her paws off in **Big Tepee Creek**.

Crossing Big Tepee Creek was cake! A good wooden bridge went over it.

*A fine bridge like this one would have come in mighty handy at some other places we’ve been to, wouldn’t it, SPHP?*

After crossing Big Tepee Creek, the trail regained some elevation. So far the trail had been easy to follow, but Lupe now came to a fork.

When Lupe arrived at this fork in the trail, it wasn’t initially clear which way to go.

SPHP initially had no clue which way to go, but then noticed the answer carved in a log by the path to the L.

L was the way to Bucking Mule Falls at the first fork in the trail.

Farther on, Lupe came to a sunny clearing. This was the first genuine break in the forest. A sign leaned against the base of a post it had once been attached to.

At a bright, sunny clearing, Lupe reaches a 2nd fork in the trail. This time there was a sign saying which way to go.

Apparently the trail to the Bucking Mule Falls overlook parted ways at this clearing with Bucking Mule National Recreation Trail No. 53.

The trail to the falls gets nearly all the traffic. Trail No. 53 was so faint, SPHP wouldn’t even have noticed it if not for the sign. Lupe took the well worn path leading to Bucking Mule Falls.

Bucking Mule Falls overlook wasn’t much farther. The first indication that the American Dingo had arrived came as she approached a flat area containing a partially collapsed log fence. A side path went up a little rise to the L (NW).

*Bucking Mule Falls overlook is this way! We’re almost there!* Photo looks NW.

On the other side of the rise, a narrow strip of ground led directly to a rocky knob jutting out into a huge canyon. The top of the knob was as spacious as a large room in a house, and surrounded by tremendous cliffs on 3 sides. This area was completely undeveloped without any safety railings.

Approaching the knob of rock that serves as the Bucking Mule Falls overlook (R). Only about half of the knob is in view here. Photo looks W.

Lupe ventured out onto the knob. Directly ahead was a grand view of Devil Canyon.

**Devil Canyon** from the Bucking Mule Falls overlook. Photo looks NW.

Off to the R, and far below, was what the Carolina Dog had come to see – Bucking Mule Falls!

A first look at **Bucking Mule Falls**. Photo looks NNE.

Nearly 0.2 mile to the NNE, even the top of Bucking Mule Falls was more than 400 feet lower than Lupe’s current position at the overlook. To get a clear view of the entire waterfall, the Carolina Dog had to get mighty close to the huge cliffs along the edge.

Lupe had to venture very close to the tremendous cliffs along the edge of the overlook to get a clear view of **Bucking Mule Falls**. Photo looks NNE.

The day was sunny and warm. After a good look at Bucking Mule Falls, Looper felt like relaxing in the shade of a nearby pine tree. Probably a better idea than spending too much time on the brink of the precipice.

While Lupe panted in the shade, SPHP admired Bucking Mule Falls.

**Bucking Mule Falls** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

180 feet high, **Bucking Mule Falls** may be the tallest waterfall Bighorn Mountain range.

Top of **Bucking Mule Falls** with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The base of the falls is 600 feet lower than the overlook.

Bucking Mule Falls may be the tallest waterfall in the entire Bighorn Mountain range, but it isn’t all that accessible. The rocky knob overlook provided a stunning view, but from nearly 0.2 mile away. There wasn’t an easy way to get down close to the waterfall other than going over the edge of the precipice.

American Dingoes are dead set against flinging themselves over the edge of any precipices. SPHP felt pretty much the same way. However, back by the dilapidated log fence it had looked like the trail continued farther E. Maybe there were more viewpoints?

It seemed worth checking out. Lupe and SPHP returned to the the log fence. Proceeding E through a forest, the trail soon shrank to a narrow single track. To the N, the terrain sloped sharply down to unseen cliffs. Perhaps there were places along the cliffs from which the falls could have been seen, but it looked dangerous to go anywhere near them.

The narrow single track trail led to a meadow where it became a two track dirt road. By the time Lupe was 0.25 mile from the rocky knob overlook, it was becoming clear that wherever this road went, Loop wasn’t going to come to any better views of Bucking Mule Falls.

That settled that. Returning to the rocky knob overlook, Loop and SPHP enjoyed Bucking Mule Falls a while longer.

**Devil Canyon** again from the rocky knob. SPHP wondered if that most distant ridge (Center) might be **Big Pryor Mountain (8,786 ft.)** in Montana? Photo looks NW.

On the way back to the trailhead, Lupe cooled off in Big Tepee Creek again. The return was otherwise uneventful. (1:57 PM, 70°F)

Enjoying a refreshing dip in **Big Tepee Creek** on the way back to the trailhead.

The day was still sunny and bright. The uphill climb back to the parking lot had made it seem warmer out than it really was. Porcupine Falls was next on Lupe’s agenda. The Carolina Dog had been there once before. While Porcupine Falls isn’t nearly as tall as Bucking Mule Falls, a huge pool of water at the base of the falls is easily accessible.

SPHP put on a bathing suit, having come up with the ludicrous notion that a dip in the pool below Porcupine Falls might be a fun, refreshing way to cool off. Prepared for ill-advised action, Lupe and SPHP left the Bucking Mule Falls trailhead. SPHP drove less than 3 miles back along USFS Road No. 14 to a R (W) turn onto USFS Road No. 146. A sign pointed to Porcupine Falls Trail No. 135.

At the turn off USFS Road No. 14 onto No. 146, which leads to the Porcupine Falls trailhead. **Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.)** is in sight. Photo looks S.

No. 146 went 0.5 mile W before ending at the Porcupine Falls trailhead. Lupe was pleased to see that she wasn’t going to have to carry anything. (2:30 PM, 69°F)

Lupe was pleased to see that she wasn’t going to have to carry anything on the way to Porcupine Falls. (As if she ever does!)

Trail No. 135 to Porcupine Falls was short, but steep. Switchbacking down a forested slope, the trail began a descent into Devil Canyon. The switchbacks eventually led to a long flight of stairs.

A burden-free Dingo heads down Trail No. 135.

On the descent into Devil Canyon. Photo looks NW.

Trail No. 135 is less than 0.5 mile long. Near the end of the descent, part of the pool of water at the base of Porcupine Falls came into view. Soon Lupe could see part of the waterfall, too.

Part of the pool of water at the base of Porcupine Falls comes into view. Photo looks S.

*There’s **Porcupine Falls** dead ahead!* Photo looks SSE.

SPHP was struck by the beauty and accessibility of Porcupine Falls! Bucking Mule Falls was certainly impressive and much taller, but had been so far away that it’s full splendor wasn’t as easy to appreciate.

**Porcupine Creek** plunges from a gap between vertical rock walls into **Devil Canyon**.

Upon reaching the canyon floor, Loop got as close to Porcupine Falls as she could. She scrambled onto a boulder near the edge of the pool below the falls. The swirling gray-green pool looked deep. The Carolina Dog did not venture in.

*Here it is – magnificent **Porcupine Falls**!*

The northern Bighorn Mountains feature 3 notable waterfalls that Lupe has been to: Shell Falls, Bucking Mule Falls, and Porcupine Falls. Only at Porcupine Falls is the base of the waterfall so easily approached.

Lupe had been to **Porcupine Falls** once before with Lanis way back in 2012 on her very first Dingo Vacation ever. That seemed like a long time ago now.

No one had been at the Bucking Mule Falls overlook, or on the trail to it. However, 4 people were at Porcupine Falls when Lupe arrived. Groups of people kept coming and going. Lupe and SPHP were never alone.

Everyone wanted to get on the rocks closest to the falls. Loopster left her boulder to give them all a turn. She headed over to the downstream side of the pool where Porcupine Creek flows out of it.

Along the downstream edge of the pool below Porcupine Falls. Photo looks SE.

**Porcupine Creek** flows NW down Devil Canyon.

By **Porcupine Creek** immediately downstream of the pool below the falls.

Looking back up Trail No. 135. Photo looks N.

The day wasn’t as sunny as it had been earlier. The sky was clouding up. The moment of truth was upon SPHP. Take a plunge into the pool below the falls, or not? No one else was dipping so much as a toe into the water. The idea no longer seemed quite as appealing as it had a little while ago, but SPHP stripped down to the bathing suit, and waded into the shallow downstream end of the pool.

The American Dingo followed, but SPHP told her to stay put. The water was cold and getting deeper fast. There wasn’t going to be any getting used to this. Now or never! While Lupe watched from the shallows, SPHP plunged in.

Still the first half of June. Snow melt. The pool was absolutely frigid! The shock took SPHP’s breath away. Fully “refreshed” in a nanosecond, SPHP splashed about only long enough to get turned around, find firm footing, and make an escape. A few seconds elapsed at most.

SPHP toweled off, then sat shivering on a rock praying for the sun to reappear. Occasionally it did, but it never stuck around long. The day already seemed to be cooling off. While SPHP tried to warm up and dry off, Lupe sniffed around further investigating the whole area near and below Porcupine Falls.

*At least I didn’t have to plunge in to rescue SPHP! What possesses humans to do such things?*

Upper half of **Porcupine Falls** with help from the telephoto lens.

Gorgeous, but SPHP won’t be swimming here again unless it’s August.

Exploring a bit farther down **Porcupine Creek**.

People kept coming. They all seemed to be quite sane. None ventured into the water. A couple of young women had brought along a 5 month old puppy named Cedar. Cedar wanted to play. Loop preferred to relax and listen to the roar of the falls.

Cedar leaves disappointed that Lupe didn’t want to play.

Thankfully, the sun finally did come out for a while. SPHP warmed up. Porcupine Falls was sure a beautiful spot! Lupe and SPHP hung around for more than an hour.

The sun finally did reappear, warming SPHP up and illuminating the canyon walls.

Exploring a side channel of the creek below **Porcupine Falls**.

The moment arrived when the steep trudge back up Trail No. 135 to the trailhead had to be faced. It was late afternoon when Lupe got back to the G6. (4:40 PM, 69°F) However, days are long in June. Loopster still had plenty of time to visit Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.).

SPHP drove back to USFS Road No. 11. Taking No. 11 N (L), the road wound steeply up the S end of Duncum Mountain. 3 miles from the intersection, SPHP parked the G6 just N of a cattle guard. (5:55 PM, 63°F)

Duncum Mountain has two summits situated a mile apart. USFS Road No. 11 goes over an enormous saddle between them. The G6 was parked on this saddle roughly halfway between the two high points. According to the topo map, the NW summit is the higher of the two, but only by 1 foot. Since the two high points are so close to the same elevation, Lupe planned on visiting both.

The top of Duncum Mountain is a vast treeless region. Both summits were more or less in view from the G6. The SE summit, crowned by large, irregular dolomite formations looked far more intriguing than the featureless NW one. Lupe headed for it first.

Loop explores a depression in the dolomite on the way to Duncum Mountain’s SE high point. Photo looks SE.

Loop among the irregular dolomite formations. Photo looks SE.

Due to the absence of trees, the views were tremendous in all directions.

**Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.)** (L). USFS Road No. 14 leading to both Bucking Mule & Porcupine falls is seen below on the L. Photo looks SW.

A few miles off to the NE, a large cloud bank nestled over lower terrain. SPHP thought nothing of it. The air was calm. For days, whenever there had been wind, it had been out of the W or SW.

The SE summit of Duncum Mountain was an easy 0.5 mile march from the G6. Surprisingly, before the Carolina Dog could get there, a breeze sprang up out of the NE. The cloud bank was coming closer! Soon wisps of fog were streaming over Duncum Mountain.

Fog starts to roll in from the NE (L). **Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.)** (Center), which Lupe had been to only yesterday, is still in sight. Photo looks S.

A glance back over the huge saddle area toward **Duncum Mountain**‘s NW (true) summit. USFS Road No. 11 is visible high on the mountain toward the R. Photo looks NW.

Lupe discovered a small cairn on some high ground, as she drew near the SE summit. SPHP looked around for a survey benchmark shown on the topo map, but found nothing. 200 feet off to the E, a couple of posts were visible near the highest dolomite formations. The American Dingo headed that way.

Close to the posts, a metal rod stuck up 10″ from a concrete base. Again, a search of the area revealed no survey benchmark of the usual type.

A nearby 30 foot high column of dolomite proved to be the clear location of Duncum Mountain’s SE summit. Good thing the true summit was the NW one! No way on earth was Lupe ever going to be able to get up onto that 30 foot high vertical column!

Lupe near Duncum Mountain’s SE summit, which appeared to be the top of the 30 foot high vertical column of dolomite seen beyond her. One of the two posts in this area is on the R. The 10″ metal rod is L of Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Since the SE summit’s highest point was beyond reach, Loopster did the next best thing. With a boost from SPHP, she scrambled atop the second highest point, a larger rock formation just W of the vertical column.

Loop atop the second highest point of the SE summit area. The angle is deceptive. She’s actually 10 feet lower than the top of the vertical column seen on the R. Photo looks NE.

Another view. The actual SE summit at least looks higher from this angle. Photo looks E.

Thinking the fog would blow by shortly, SPHP let Loop sniff around the interesting rock formations for a while. The fog only grew denser. All distant views disappeared entirely.

Lupe explored these interesting rock formations of Duncum Mountain’s SE summit until SPHP gave up on the fog lifting anytime soon.

Still believing the fog was likely to dissipate, SPHP gave up on waiting it out at the SE summit. Looper might as well head to the NW high point, which was the true summit, anyway.

The American Dingo returned to USFS Road No. 11. She followed the road N gaining elevation, but eventually left it heading NW. The search was on for Duncum Mountain’s true summit! The fog had not lifted, however. Loop traveled up a long slope strewn with mostly small rocks, minimal vegetation, and numerous depressions in the dolomite.

Somewhere up ahead, a marmot squeaked. Lupe disappeared into the fog. She could be heard barking. SPHP arrived to find Loop circling a large stone looking for a way at the unseen marmot hiding beneath it. However, the marmot had chosen its fortress wisely. The ground was so rocky, the Carolina Dog could make no progress against it.

Helpless to do anything more than bark, Lupe tries to convince a marmot to come out from the safety of it’s rock fortress by carrying on like a complete nut case. The marmot was not the least bit enticed.

Enough of that! SPHP called Lupe away.

The search for Duncum Mountain’s true summit continued. The terrain finally began to level out. Ordinarily it ought to have been a simple matter to go straight to the high point. The top of Duncum Mountain was a huge, nearly flat plain with nothing to obstruct the view.

Nothing, but fog, that is. It was worse than ever. Big rocks that must have been somewhere along the W edge of the vast summit area faded in and out of sight like ghostly apparitions. SPHP consulted the topo map. The true summit was supposed to be out in the middle, not too close to the W edge.

Hoping for a cairn, or possibly a large rock, Lupe and SPHP wandered a gray world looking for the highest ground. Despite the fog, it didn’t take long to discover a small cairn. As far as it was possible to tell, Lupe had made it! This was the true summit of Duncum Mountain (9,831 ft.).

Lupe reaches the true summit of **Duncum Mountain**. Photo looks E.

A cluster of tiny blue wildflowers grew next to the cairn. Dimly seen through the fog, an unusually large depression 65 feet to the E was the NW summit’s only nearby notable feature. Loopster had come to many depressions in the dolomite, but perhaps this one was large enough to serve as a landmark?

Loop along the edge of the big depression 65 feet E of the true summit. Photo looks S.

Visibility was only 100 feet. The fog hadn’t lifted as SPHP expected. In fact, it was still getting denser. With no reason to linger, Loop and SPHP left Duncum Mountain’s true summit heading SE for USFS Road No. 11 and the G6.

After a 10 or 15 minute hike, Lupe came across the summit cairn again. What? Impossible! But there it was. SPHP had gone in a complete circle. How silly! Time to quit daydreaming and pay attention. Loop set off for the G6 a second time.

To SPHP’s horror, 15 minutes later Lupe again sauntered up to the little summit cairn. Having once found it, she couldn’t escape it. Thick fog streamed by. Visibility was now reduced to only a few 10’s of feet. This was ridiculous! The road wasn’t even 0.2 mile away by the shortest route, but SPHP hadn’t been able to find it.

For a third time, Lupe left the summit cairn heading SE. This time SPHP simply ignored all visual clues and walked so the NE breeze always came from the L. Suddenly, Lupe streaked away, disappearing instantly into the fog. What now? A few seconds later, SPHP heard faint barking. Loop was a long way off, but straight ahead.

The Carolina Dog knew exactly where she was. SPHP found her back at the marmot’s fortress. Keeping the NE breeze coming from the L had worked! SPHP called Loop away from the marmot. Cold, moist fog swept over Duncum Mountain, as Lupe and SPHP continued down the long slope. (7:56 PM, 44°F)

On **Duncum Mountain**, Bighorn Range, Wyoming 6-14-18

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Shell Falls, Porcupine Falls & Bald Mountain in the Bighorn Range, WY (8-9-12)