Author: Lupe

International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)

Day 9 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Skagway was hopping!  Three more cruise ships had arrived in port overnight.  Shops and sidewalks were jammed with tourists, saloon girls were conducting tours, and throngs of people were lined up waiting to take the scenic White Pass & Yukon Route railroad.

It was a gorgeous summer morning, but neither Lupe nor SPHP was feeling terribly ambitious yet.  Both were a bit drained from Lupe’s successful long climb of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) yesterday.  Loop and SPHP took a stroll along a creek near the train station.  The American Dingo could see the start of the long AB Mountain ridge from here.

On a morning stroll, Lupe inspects the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad train. Throngs of tourists were lined up at the train station nearby to take the scenic journey to White Pass and beyond. Photo looks SW.
Yesterday Lupe had spent a very long day climbing AB Mountain, the lower end of which is seen here beyond the White Pass & Yukon Route train. Photo looks N.

The morning shot by consumed by various errands.  After breakfast, SPHP inquired at the Skagway Sea Terminal about the price to take the Alaska Marine Highway to Haines from here.  The one hour trip was $32 for SPHP plus $56 for the G6.  Something to think about.  There were stops at a couple of shops for souvenirs and postcards, for supplies at the IGA, and trip to a dilapidated gas station for fuel for the G6.

Lupe had the most important errand of all.  Yesterday the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to the true summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), a feat which made her a member of the Arctic Sisterhood.  Of course, as a new member Loop was anxious to check in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway to inform them of her recent exploit.  She was excited to let them know how happy and proud she was to join the gang, and find out what duties she might have.  She also wanted SPHP to ask about any membership benefits she was entitled to, as well.

Proud new Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway.

The news was shocking!  The Arctic Brotherhood had been defunct since 1924!  The Arctic Brotherhood hall was now only a tourist information center.  They knew nothing about the Arctic Sisterhood, and seemed not to have ever even heard of it.

Poor Lupe was so disillusioned!  All that way to the true summit of AB Mountain, and now nothing at all to show for it.  Looper’s soft ears drooped.  SPHP could see in her eyes how downcast and disappointed she felt.  SPHP tried hard to make it all better.

Why, you lucky Dingo!  I never dreamed you would have it so good joining the Arctic Sisterhood!

Lucky!  Have you completely lost your marbles, SPHP?  If I weren’t an American Dingo, I would just cry!  The Arctic Brotherhood is dead and gone.  It’s ancient history!  Even worse, there never was an Arctic Sisterhood.  They don’t know a thing about it.

Silly Carolina Dog!  Don’t you realize what this means?

Of course, I do.  It means no awesome new friends with adventuring spirits to share future arctic exploits with.  It means no cool Arctic Sisterhood official membership card.  No fancy new Arctic Sisterhood adventure collar.  Not even an Arctic Sisterhood top secret pawshake!

Oh, how you go on!  What it means is, you are the newly minted sole and founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood!  Why, you are President of the whole dang organization, or whatever you want to be called.  You did get to the true summit of AB Mountain, you know.

Others must have, too, SPHP.  Yet there isn’t an Arctic Sisterhood.

Well, it’s not your fault if no one else bothered to start it up.  You can!

What fun is it, if there aren’t any other members?

Tell you what.  I’ll be your first member.  If you want more than that, you’ll have to think about recruiting some more.  Maybe when we’re back home after this Dingo Vacation you could invite Rebecca Riordan?  She was super nice to you yesterday on AB Mountain, and even has a grandma named Lupe.  You might meet other worthy candidates on this Dingo Vacation, too.

Worthy candidates?  You don’t really qualify, SPHP, and Rebecca never made it to the true summit of AB Mountain.

Are you kidding me?  You haven’t been President 5 minutes and already no one meets your highfalutin standards.  I was right there with you at the true summit, and Rebecca made it up the steepest part of the trail.  Sean and Rebecca had to turn around so they didn’t miss their departure time aboard the Explorer of the Seas.  It’s not Rebecca’s fault she didn’t have time enough to go all the way to the top.

Just starting out, you’re going to have to show some flexibility.  Make us honorary members or something like that.  If you want to be so cold as to weed us out after things are going great and you have plenty of members, I suppose you can.  But that’s cold, real cold.  What can you expect, though, from someone who is President of the Arctic Sisterhood?

Simply talking about the Arctic Sisterhood was having the desired effect.  The Carolina Dog was perking up, looking happier already.

Maybe you’re right, SPHP.  Except for one thing.

What’s that?

I don’t want to be President.

Oh, why not?  I’m not going to be President, and Rebecca doesn’t even know about it yet.

You said I could be called anything I want to as founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood, right?

Yes …. I suppose I did …. so what do you want to be called?

Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood.  Kind of has a nice peakbagging ring to it, don’t you think?

It does.  Not to mention the humility angle.  This is all kind of going straight to that noggin of yours, isn’t it?  Why do I get the feeling I’m about to be ruled with an iron paw?

What’s new and different about that?

Oh, yeah.  Hmmm.  Got me there.  Good point!  I ought to warn Rebecca.

OK, now that that’s settled, what do you think the Arctic Sisterhood should do first, SPHP?  Any suggestions?

Yes indeed.  I think your first official act as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should be to go on another adventure.

Oh, I don’t know, SPHP.  I’m sort of tired after AB Mountain yesterday.  Besides, the day is half shot already.  Wasn’t this going to be a rest day?

Nope, and there’s a perfect place to go to nearby, Loop, err, I mean Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood.  Say, do you mind if I just call you Lupe most of the time except during official membership meetings, special occasions, and such?  Your new title is kind of a mouthful.

This is a special occasion!  A very special one!  It’s the first day of the new Arctic Sisterhood!  However, since it’s just you and me, SPHP, Lupe is fine for now as long as you show proper decorum when others are present.

Gee, thanks.  I’ll try to remember that.  Anyway, as I was saying, there is a great adventure that’s not too hard, and not too far away.  Remember your friend Australian Adventurer Luke Hall who you met up on Gunsight Mountain last year?  He suggested this adventure.  It’s called International Falls.

There’s a trail along a beautiful stream with a lovely series of cascades and waterfalls.  Only 1,000 feet of elevation gain to where the trail fades away, but it’s possible to wander farther to an overlook with some great glacier-clad mountain views.  None of it is really difficult except for a short steep stretch at the very start.  The adventure starts in Canada, but the trail soon crosses the US border into Alaska.  What do you say?

You’re absolutely right, SPHP!  We should do some kind of memorable outdoor adventure on the Arctic Sisterhood’s first day.  International Falls sounds gorgeous and not too strenuous.  I like it.  If there’s still time, let’s do it!

Lupe and SPHP were soon on the way out of Skagway on the South Klondike Highway (No. 98).  Shortly after reaching the end of the steep, long climb past US Customs to the high point where the highway reaches the Tormented Valley W of White Pass, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood crossed the Canadian border gracing British Columbia with her presence.

SPHP parked the G6 at the second, lower big pullout on the W (L) side of the highway.  (3:38 PM, 64°F)  Lupe was only a fraction of a kilometer into British Columbia.  Canadian Customs was still 7.5 miles (12 km) farther N.  From the edge of an embankment beside the pullout, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood peered more than 100 feet down into a valley to the W.

Two small lakes were in the valley, connected by a stream.  The larger, upstream lake was to the N.  Across the valley, another stream flowed down a long, rocky slope of stunted dark green conifers.  This stream cascaded down a series of waterfalls to a light green alluvial fan where it joined forces with the stream from the larger lake to the N.  Captain William Moore Creek, shown on the map as the name of the combined streams, flowed S to the smaller lake.

This whole area looked heavily glaciated, having a scraped down to bedrock appearance typical of the Tormented Valley.  The upper spires of high sharp peaks were seen some distance to the SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood arrives in British Columbia for her first look at the International Falls area. She’s at the higher pullout on the W side of the South Klondike Highway here. The actual trailhead was one pullout slightly farther N, a bit closer to the lake seen below. Photo looks NW.
The International Falls trail follows the R (N) side of the stream seen coming down the long slope across the valley. It goes all the way up well beyond the apparent saddle at Center. Photo looks W.
Part of the smallest lake, little more than a pond, is in view on the L. High sharp peaks are in the distance. Photo looks SW.
The start of the International Falls trail is in the foreground. It can also be seen on the alluvial fan below. Photo looks W.

The hardest part of the whole International Falls trail was just getting down from the highway to the creek in the valley below the trailhead safely.  Starting out, the trail was only moderately steep, and Lupe could have followed several different worn paths.  They all led to a single stupidly steep eroded route going down the lower part of the embankment.

Looking down from the lip of the really steep part. Yeah, the trail heads right on down over the edge into the bushes, which SPHP made extensive use of as hand holds. Photo looks W.

Near the bottom, a rope fastened somewhere above was strung down the worst part of the trail.  Without it, SPHP’s International Falls adventure might have been over already with a dramatic, not too enjoyable, gravity-assisted splat.  The rope would have been even better, if it had been another 10 or 15 feet longer, but SPHP did manage to arrive in one piece at the bottom of the embankment.

Perhaps the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood sprouted wings and flew down when SPHP wasn’t looking.  However she did it, she was standing next to Captain William Moore Creek when SPHP turned around to face the stream.

The larger lake toward the N from partway down the embankment below the trailhead. Photo looks NW.
The rope assisted portion of the trail from the bottom of the embankment. It’s steeper than it looks!
Using her super powers as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Lupe magically appears safely down next to Captain William Moore Creek. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was somewhat intimidated by the width of Captain William Moore Creek, but the beautiful stream was actually quite shallow this time of year.  SPHP crossed first, to show Looper how easy it was.  Even the deepest part was only knee deep on SPHP.  Of course, knee deep is swimming depth for the Carolina Dog.  Nevertheless, Lupe was encouraged by SPHP’s success and made her way across.

Loop pauses at an island partway across Captain William Moore Creek. The steep trail down the lower part of the embankment is seen on the L. Getting down that embankment is the hardest part of the whole International Falls trail. Once across the stream, everything else is easy. Photo looks ESE.
Fording the stream. Only a few inches deep here!

Having made it across Captain William Moore Creek, Lupe and SPHP were in for a gorgeous afternoon and evening of easy hiking amid dazzlingly spectacular scenery.  The hardest part was over already!  Lupe led the way along the American Falls trail across the the alluvial fan, and started up the long, gentle slope to the W.

Above the alluvial fan, the trail became braided in bushy areas interspersed with stands of stunted conifers.  Lupe stuck to the paths farthest S, which were closest to the stream coming down from the W.  She soon reached the first notable cascade along the American Falls trail.

Looper near the first notable cascade along the International Falls trail. Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) (1,795 m) is the pointy peak in the distance at Center. The rounded hill on the R is High Point 4,731 (1,442 m). Photo looks SW.
In addition to the superb scenery, the continual soothing roar of the cascading stream was a highlight of the International Falls trail. Photo looks SW.
The trail wasn’t always right by the stream. Here it passes through a bushy sub-alpine area bordered by stunted conifers. High Point 4731 (1,442 m) is on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Of course, the higher Lupe went, the better the views got.  The American Dingo came to many lovely waterfalls, cascades and rapids.

One of many beautiful waterfalls along the International Falls trail.
Looking S.
Loopster practically mid-stream.

Somewhere along the way, 0.5 mile more or less from the highway, Lupe left British Columbia crossing the US border into Alaska.  No sign existed to indicate exactly where the border was, but it was still rather cool to cross from one country to another traveling the International Falls trail.

By the time Lupe made it this far, she had crossed the US border from British Columbia into Alaska. No sign was seen indicating the actual location of the border. Photo looks SW.
Although the International Falls trail starts in Canada, the great majority of the trail is in Alaska. Lupe still had a long way to go from here.

The stream eventually split into 3 tributaries.  The trail turned more to the NW following the largest tributary.  Lupe was now climbing some of the steepest terrain of the whole journey, but it wasn’t bad at all.  The rate of climb was still moderate.  Loopster was soon approaching the tallest waterfall along the whole trail.

Approaching the tallest waterfall along the International Falls trail. Photo looks NW.
You were right, SPHP! The International Falls trail is so beautiful! This is a great first adventure for the Arctic Sisterhood. So easy, too!
This was the last big waterfall along the International Falls trail. Photo looks WNW.

Since the creek had divided lower down, the tallest waterfall did not have quite as much flow as other falls Lupe had already come to, but it plunged over a wall of rock in such lovely fashion Loop wanted SPHP to take a couple pictures of her here for the Arctic Sisterhood archives.

Lupe poses near the tallest waterfall. Photo looks WSW.
A nice shot for Lupe’s Arctic Sisterhood archives.

Above the tallest waterfall, Lupe paused to look back at the view to the E to see how much progress she’d made.  She could see the South Klondike Highway where she’d started out from, and a line of mountains beyond the rocky, rugged terrain of the Tormented Valley.

Looking ESE from above the tallest waterfall. The South Klondike Highway is in view. This whole area up to the base of the mountains is part of the Tormented Valley.

There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall, but the terrain was beginning to change.  The trail was still gaining elevation steadily, but more slowly than before.  The waterfalls, though still beautiful, were shrinking in size.

There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall. Lupe takes a little break at a particularly nice spot. Photo looks W.
As Lupe continued on, the terrain was gradually leveling out. Here the creek spreads out beautifully over an area of flat rocks. Photo looks W.
Loop on her first adventure as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood.
Look at that big flat rock beyond Looper! There were countless gorgeous spots like that to take a break or have a picnic. Photo looks NW.

Eventually the land to the W was rising so gradually that Lupe reached the end of the waterfall territory.  The International Falls trail still went on for a while, though.  This was pretty territory, too, just somewhat different from what came before.  Lupe and SPHP were having such a good time that Loop kept right on going.

Instead of waterfalls, Lupe now came to a series of ponds and little lakes connected by the creek.  Countless small tributaries babbled down from the hillsides.  Loop continued onward staying N of the ponds and lakes.  She sometimes had to cross some of the side streams.  None of them were very large.

Above the waterfall territory, Lupe was in near treeless alpine. Somewhere up on that enormous hill is the Canadian border. Photo looks NNW
Looking back down to the SE.
Looper along the N side of one of the first ponds she came to. Photo looks S.
Lupe looking tiny in the vast alpine world above all the waterfalls. Photo looks W.

Maybe it was just the way the evening sunlight was reflecting off all the little lakes, ponds and streams, but this vast alpine tundra beyond the waterfalls seemed even more beautiful.  SPHP wished Lupe had more time left in the day, there were so many places one might explore!

This vast alpine tundra with all its sparkling little lakes, ponds and streams was just stunningly beautiful! Lupe and SPHP were going to keep exploring as long as the evening light held out.
International Falls is a Dingo Paradise, SPHP!
Lupe stuck to the N (R) as she continued upstream heading for the saddle ahead.

Some of the small lakes were simply drop dead gorgeous!

Wow! So pretty! Continuing on into the lake country was the right decision. Photo looks SW.
Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

The International Falls trail was gradually fading away.  Eventually it would be lost for good.  That didn’t really matter.  The terrain was so open, it was easy to see where to go.  Lupe kept heading NW toward a saddle that seemed to always retreat a little higher and farther away every time it appeared she ought to be getting close.

The International Falls trail is faint, but still seen here on the right. Before long it would disappear entirely. Didn’t matter, Lupe kept going. Photo looks WSW.
Now at the shallow NW end of the same little lake. Photo looks S.
Looking back to the SE. The trail can still be seen on the L.

As the Carolina Dog journeyed farther into the lake country, new glories started to appear.  Lupe began getting much improved views of some of the more distant higher mountains.  She could see Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) (1,795 m) to the S.  The upper snow and glacier clad portions of Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) (1,853 m) appeared ahead to the NW.

As Lupe continued her explorations NW, she began to get better views of some of the higher peaks of the region. Feather Peak is the pyramid in the distance near Center. Photo looks SSW.
Feather Peak with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
The upper snow and glacier clad portions of Mount Hoffman (L) were coming into view. Photo looks NW.

Soon Looper could see Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.), too.

Feather Peak (L) and Mount Cleveland (R) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
There wasn’t time to do it today, but if Loop ever returns to International Falls, she might try to climb High Point 4803 (1,464 m) (Center) NW of Feather Peak on the topo map. Doesn’t look hard and the views would be stupendous! Photo looks SW.
Mount Cleveland (L) and High Point 4,803 (1,464 m) (R). Photo looks SW.

Lupe came to many false “summits” of the saddle she was trying to reach.  Somewhat higher ground always appeared farther ahead.  The American Dingo entered more rugged territory traveling over a series of low, rocky ridges.  These ridges and the gaps between them were nearly all oriented SW/NE much like the gashes Lupe had come to only yesterday up on the AB Mountain ridge.

This region of low ridges was also where Lupe came to the largest of the small lakes.  Every ridge Lupe crossed revealed new, beautiful territory beyond it.  This sort of alpine high country is Lupe’s favorite of all.  She sniffed and explored everywhere, pausing frequently to gaze out over the paradise ahead from each succeeding ridge.

Lupe reaches the region of larger lakes scattered between the low rocky ridges. Mount Hoffman is ahead in the distance on the R. Photo looks NW.
High Point 4803 (L) and Mount Hoffman (R edge). Photo looks W.
Feather Peak (L) and Mount Cleveland (R) looking over one of the larger lakes from one of the low ridges. Photo looks SSW.
Lupe loves high alpine terrain like this. And why not? Such super fun to explore! SPHP was having a blast, too! Feather Peak (L), Mount Cleveland (Center), and High Point 4803 (1,464 m) (R). Photo looks SSW.
Another look from another ridge overlooking another scenic lake. Feather Peak (L) and Mount Cleveland (R). Photo looks S.
Part of the same lake. Mount Cleveland (L) and High Point 4803 (1,464 m) (Center). Photo looks SW.

A massive mountain to the N blocked any further views in that direction.  It didn’t look hard to climb, though Lupe didn’t have time to do it today.  The summit, which was not in view, was across the border a short distance into Canada.  The topo map showed the summit of this mountain, Peak 6053 (1,845 m), overlooking a vast snowfield or glacier.

None of all that could be seen from down here, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood agreed Peak 6053 (1,845 m) should be kept in mind for future Arctic Sisterhood expeditions.

This massive mountain is the S slope of Peak 6053 (1,845 m). The summit is not in view. This would be another fantastic non-technical, but far more ambitious peak than High Point 4803 to climb in the International Falls area. The topo map shows that the summit overlooks a vast snowfield to the N. Might be super awesome! Photo looks N.
Lupe crosses a snowbank S of Peak 6053 (1,845 m). Photo looks NNW.

Loopster went on and on, crossing more rocky ridges, coming to more sparkling lakes and ponds, leaping over more trickling streams.  Finally, the end was in sight.  A large boulder sat atop the last ridge, it was the high point of the saddle she had been heading toward all this time.

Loopster went on and on, passing more beautiful lakes and ponds, crossing trickling streams, melting snow banks, going over one rocky ridge after another. Photo looks S.
This super clear pond was a different color from all the rest and so amazingly beautiful! Photo looks NW.
At last, a lone boulder (Center) could be spied in the distance atop the final ridge. This was the high point of the saddle Lupe had been looking for all this time. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP pressed on to that boulder on the final ridge.  Beyond it, the ground sloped down ever more steeply toward a gigantic canyon.  At the bottom of this canyon was the famed Chilkoot Trail of Klondike gold rush days, which follows the Taiya River here on the way from Dyea near Skagway to Bennett Lake.

None of the lower regions of the canyon could be seen from the boulder, so Lupe went another 100 yards farther down the slope.  It became clear she would have to lose more elevation than it seemed to be worth to really be able to see way down anywhere close to the bottom.  SPHP called a halt.  This was good enough.

The scenic prize the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had come to claim was stretched out before her beyond the immense canyon – a wondrous pristine white and shadow blue world of snow, ice and wild jagged mountains.

On the way to the boulder on the final ridge. Photo looks WSW.
100 yards beyond the boulder on the final ridge, SPHP called a halt here. At the unseen bottom of the huge canyon just ahead, the Chilkoot Trail, famous since the old Klondike gold rush days, follows the Taiya River. Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) is the high point R of Center. Photo looks WNW.
Beyond the canyon was a wild, remote world of snow white glaciers, and jagged shadow blue mountains. Photo looks SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood and SPHP spent 20 minutes together gazing upon the wondrous scene while the sun sank slowly toward the icy solitude of the Alaskan wilderness.

The Saussure Glacier (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WNW.
Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) (L) with help from the telephoto lens.  Photo looks NW.

With perhaps 2 hours to go before sundown, Lupe returned to the big boulder on the ridge.  She climbed up on this landmark for a last look around.

Loop on the big boulder on the final ridge. In a way, this might be considered the far W end of the International Falls trail, although the trail itself had disappeared long before Lupe got this far. Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) at Center. Photo looks SSE.
The final glorious moment on the boulder on the last ridge W before starting back.

On the return trip there was need for some speed.  Sunset was only a couple of hours away.  Crossing all the low ridges near the beautiful lakes had been a gorgeous route, but this time Lupe and SPHP stayed farther N.  Lupe actually gained elevation, and held it for quite a distance.  For more than a mile, she could look back and still see the big boulder she’d been on at the last ridge W.

The return trip was pure fun!  It was all wonderful and exquisitely beautiful.  Lupe ran and explored and played wild Alaskan Dingo, while SPHP marched on.

Starting back. Lupe and SPHP stayed higher and farther N for the first part of the return trip, avoiding some of the ups and downs of the maze of low ridges down by the lakes. High Point 4803 at Center. Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.) in the distance on the L. Photo looks SSW.
You know, SPHP, I’ve been looking at that Feather Peak for hours now. Maybe we could even climb that one sometime? Put that in the notes for the Arctic Sisterhood’s future reference too, please. Photo looks SSW.

Loop was back on the International Falls trail long before reaching the waterfalls.  She got to see all the waterfalls one more time, but they were now in the shadow of the big slope she was coming down from the W.

The last rays of sunlight were disappearing from the mountain peaks when Lupe reached the G6.  The Arctic Sisterhood’s first ever expedition had been a grand success!  At first Lupe was so pleased, she forgot how long it had been since she’d had much to eat.  She finally did remember, though, and Dingoed down an entire can of Alpo in nothing flat.

The Most Weary Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood then curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets.  SPHP pulled her blankie over her.  Loop went out like a light, beginning the process of gathering strength for the Arctic Sisterhood’s next big adventure.  Which was a good thing, for that next big adventure was just around the corner.

Happy times in the Alaskan wilderness at the end of the International Falls trail. 8-8-17

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 79 – The Snow Trek (3-16-14)

Exhaustion.  Near total exhaustion.  SPHP sat down right on the pavement.  Both dogs laid down nearby.  Even they were incredibly weary.  All the provisions SPHP had brought were long gone.  Stars glittered in the night sky.  The full moon shone down on a silent world.  What a gorgeous, still evening!

Everything was going to be fine.  Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP had made it to the intersection of Hwy 17 and USFS Road No. 256, a little N of Nahant in the W central Black Hills.  A few minutes rest, and Lupe and company would push on to the G6 parked less than 0.5 mile away.  After nearly 11 hours in the field, the Snow Trek ordeal would come to an end (9:05 PM, 35°F).

Of course, only the last few hours had really been an ordeal.  Most of the day had been beautiful, spent wandering the snowy forest.  It had all started this morning with a forecast high of 61°F back home.  The day had never been anywhere near that warm up here, but that forecast had gotten SPHP to thinking Lupe ought to continue her explorations of Minnesota Ridge.

Lupe had gone over to Dog Heaven, to see if the neighbor’s dog, Sidney, wanted to come with.  Yes, indeed!  Big Sid was excited!  He got permission to go.  So off in the G6 went Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP, all looking forward to a grand romp in the hills.

Arriving at the N end of Minnesota Ridge on USFS Road No. 256, it was clear that the plan for the day needed adjustment.  Snow was plowed up 3 or 4 feet deep all along the road.  The snow wasn’t that deep in the forest, but there was plenty of it there, too.  In any case, there was nowhere to park the G6.  Snow was everywhere.

SPHP drove another mile W before finding a place to park (10:12 AM, 36°F).  Everyone piled out of the G6.  Lupe was barking and leaping for joy!  Pristine white snow sparkled in the bright sunlight.  Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP headed SE through a field going up a gentle rise.  The Snow Trek was underway!

Lupe was joyful, full of energy, and looking forward to a romp in the hills when the Snow Trek began.

Beyond the little rise, the snowy field went SW down to Hwy 17.  Lupe, Sidney and SPHP followed a short segment of the road continuing SW, but left Hwy 17 shortly after it turned sharply N.  Everyone went down to the Mickelson Trail, which was nearby to the W.

Lupe was now at Nahant.  She could have followed the trail N or S, but SPHP decided to lead the way S, thinking Lupe might eventually get on USFS Road No. 259 and explore Telegraph Gulch.

Looking N along the Mickelson Trail at Nahant.

Lupe wasn’t on the Mickelson Trail very long.  She left it to climb a small slope up to USFS Road No. 259, where she and Big Sid continued S.  The road was sloppy with melting snow and mud.

Lupe and Big Sid soon left the Mickelson Trail to climb up the snowy slope on the R, which led to USFS Road No. 259. Photo looks S.
Big Sid on USFS Road No. 259. The road was a sloppy mess with mud and melting snow. The Mickelson Trail is seen on the L. Photo looks SSW.

The mucky road was icky to walk on.  Most of the time, it was best staying entirely off to one side or the other.  Lupe and Sidney passed by a dilapidated old house and barn on the W side of No. 259.  Shortly after that, the road turned W up into the forest.  No. 259 soon turned S again, and went over a small ridge.

The plan had sort of been to take No. 259 several miles S all the way through Telegraph Gulch to USFS Road No. 231.  However, after going over the small ridge, an unmarked side road went W up a beautiful little valley.  This side road wasn’t shown at all on SPHP’s old USFS map, but looked intriguing.  It certainly seemed more interesting than continuing the muddy march along No. 259.

Exploring the mysterious side road became the new plan.

Sidney leads the way up the mysterious side road into a valley W of USFS Road No. 259 S of Nahant. Photo looks WNW.

At first, it was possible to follow the side road.  Farther up the valley, the snow got progressively deeper.  It became difficult to tell where the road was, or if it was even still here at all.  Most of the time, it was easiest to stay toward the N side of the valley where there was a little S exposure and less snow.

As the snow became deeper, it was hard to tell where the road was, but Lupe and Sidney were having fun exploring this seldom visited valley. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had the easiest time dealing with the deeper snow.  A hard crust was under a few inches of fresh powder.  The crust generally supported Lupe’s weight, so she could trot along on top, but Sidney and SPHP often broke through to the deeper stuff below.  Conditions varied, though.  Some places the crust was even strong enough to support both Sidney and SPHP.

Lupe comes dashing back over the snow. A hard crust below a few inches of fluffy powder generally supported Lupe’s weight. Big Sid and SPHP broke through the crust more frequently, and had a much harder time. Photo looks W.

After going close to a mile up the valley, it split in two.  One branch went SW, while the other went NW.  The road, if it still existed, was long lost beneath the snow.  SPHP hadn’t seen it for a while.

Lupe and Sidney had already been drifting farther and farther up the N side of the valley to avoid the deepest snow, so it was easiest to follow the NW branch of the valley.  Deadfall timber made the somewhat steeper climb here tougher for a while, but it wasn’t bad.  Less than 0.5 mile brought Lupe and Sid to a saddle on a big ridge.  (Pass 6194)

From the ridge, it was possible to see a considerable distance to the N.  Both Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) and Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) were in view miles away.  The local terrain dropped steeply to the N.  Swede Gulch had to be somewhere out there not too far away.

At the saddle, Lupe and Big Sid turned W, following the ridge higher.  The views to the N and NE steadily improved.  Meanwhile, the snow kept getting deeper.

The views to the N and NE kept improving as Lupe and Big Sid gained elevation following the ridgeline W. Custer Peak is in view in the distance to the L of this nice stand of birch trees. Photo looks NE.

On and on through the snow.  Higher and higher.  Maybe it hit 61°F back at home, but not here.  Here it was only in the low 40’s.  Finally, Lupe and Sidney were high enough to start seeing views off to the S and SW, but SPHP didn’t recognize the nearby terrain.

A small rock outcropping at a high point presented an opportunity to dust the snow off the rocks and sit down for a break.  Lupe and Sidney made short work of the Taste of the Wild supply.  SPHP had an apple while admiring the view to the S, then checked the USFS map.

It was starting to seem like a long time since losing the side road under the snow back down in the valley.  The map showed only one possible road in this area.  USFS Road No. 234 wound for miles around the W end and along the S side of Swede Gulch.  Hmmm.  With all the snow, SPHP wasn’t even certain of being able to recognize a road, even if Lupe and Sid did come to one.

Lupe and Sidney in the snow high up on the ridge shortly before reaching the break area at the rock outcropping. Photo looks W.

Break time was over.  Loop, Sidney and SPHP resumed the march W.  The ridge now flattened and broadened out tremendously.  For a while, elevation was being gained only slowly, if at all.  The snow made it tough going.  The need to find a road grew.  Each step was still taking Lupe and Sidney farther away from the G6.  It was time to think about finding a way back.

Fortunately, Lupe and Sidney did discover a road!  It continued W, gaining elevation again at a modest pace.  Either this was, or would likely feed into USFS Road No. 234 at some point along the way.  However, finding the road was not the expected solution to the difficulties with the snow.  The road was covered by an even deeper white blanket than the forest had been.  The snow was in pristine condition.  No sign anyone had been here.  The struggle continued.

Finally, after passing first a fence, and then a tree that had fallen across the road, there were tracks.  Snowmobiles had been here!  The snow was compacted enough so Lupe could usually race along right on top.  Sidney and SPHP had some luck staying up on top, too, but not always.  Each failure meant post holing down a couple of feet.

If this really was No. 234, sooner or later, the road would have to turn N.  It did turn N, several times, but each time swung back to the W again.  On and on.  Farther and farther from the G6.  The condition of the snow varied.  Sometimes even Lupe was sinking in.  Other times both Sidney and SPHP could stay on the crunchy compacted crust.  Overall, though, pressing onward was an increasingly time and energy-consuming effort.

Lupe and Sidney were in high territory.  The scenery was beautiful and remote.  The dogs still seemed to be having fun.  The snowmobile tracks often stretched on through big openings in the forest where everything was gorgeous and white.  The actual road was three feet below the level of the tracks.  Where the snow held, it was like traveling over the top of a crusty cloud.

At last, the tracks swung N and kept going that way.  Time went by.  How much farther?  A bit of a curve to the NNE.  The road passed through a dense, old forest and started to descend.  SPHP expected Lupe would arrive at Tillson Creek pretty soon.  She had been there before on a prior expedition.  SPHP was elated when the creek came into view.

Decision time.  Take the long, but certain route back to the G by staying on No. 234 to No. 206 all the way back to Hwy 17?  No. 206 wasn’t far away, and would have had enough traffic to pack the snow down hard for a good walking surface.  Or try the shortcut down along Tillson Creek through Swede Gulch to Nahant?

The sun would still be up for a couple of hours.  Lupe had followed Tillson Creek through Swede Gulch once before back on Expedition No. 58 on 5-11-13.  SPHP remembered it as an easy and beautiful route.  It was still miles long, though, and conditions were very different now.

A quick decision.  Lupe and Sidney would take the shorter route through Swede Gulch.

It wasn’t long before SPHP began to realize what Lupe and Sidney were in for.  Tillson Creek flowed merrily along with plenty of water in it.  However, the snow was even deeper down by the creek than before.  Snowdrifts 4 to 5 feet high filled the narrow valley, often burying the small creek beneath them.

To make any progress, Lupe and Sidney had to stay up in the forest on the N side of the valley where the snow wasn’t quite as deep.  The forest was a mess.  Pine bark beetles had killed many trees since Lupe had last been here.  A slow, difficult struggle through snow and deadfall timber ensued.  Energy drained away.  Time flew by.  The distance traversed was pitiful.

Suddenly SPHP realized Lupe was coming to open ground ahead.  Tillson Creek flowed into a broad, gentle valley of pasture lands intersecting from the NNW.  Maybe this was the start of Swede Gulch?  SPHP had forgotten about this place, but was very glad to see it.  Lupe and Sidney made it past the last big snowbank.  A snow-free trail led SE!

We’re saved!  Even Lupe and Big Sid were visibly encouraged.

By the time Lupe reached the open ground here in the intersecting broad valley, the sun was getting low. Lupe still had miles to go down Swede Gulch. Photo looks W in the direction she had been coming from.
Sidney stands at the start of the snow-free trail in upper end of Swede Gulch. Rapid progress could finally be made, but it wouldn’t last long. Photo looks SE.

For a little while, Lupe and Sidney made fast progress along the muddy trail, but SPHP’s announcement was premature.  The gravel road leading to Nahant from Swede Gulch was still miles away.  The valley soon narrowed again.  Swede Gulch became a twisting, turning canyon.  SPHP expected to see the W fork of Tillson Creek coming in from a narrow side canyon, but never did.

Deep snow returned.  Occasionally there were short snow-free stretches of trail, but for the most part, the endless struggle through snow and deadfall timber on the forested N slope of the canyon resumed.  We’re doomed! or We’re saved! became the cry around every bend depending on the scene ahead.

Doomed!  For real.  At a sharp bend, the narrow canyon ahead was completely choked with dense forest and deadfall.  Huge mounds of snow among the trees blocked any reasonable way forward.  Advance was impossible, thought of retreat unbearable.  In desperation, Lupe began to climb the steep canyon wall.  With no other choice, Big Sid and SPHP tried to follow.

The American Dingo reached the top of a high, thin rock wall.  She’d made it!  Big Sid and SPHP managed to get there, too.  This was it!  Lupe had found a shortcut bypassing the worst part of the canyon!  On the other side of the rock wall was a way down again.  Back down to the canyon.  The situation was better here.  It was possible to continue downstream.

The sun was long down, and twilight fading, by the time the canyon seemed to widen out a bit.  The going became a little easier.  It became possible to spend more time on the trail, and less fighting the deadfall on the wretched N slope.  SPHP kept expecting to see the gravel road to Nahant around every bend, but it did not appear.

Then it did appear!  No, it wasn’t true.  The road proved to be an illusion in the growing darkness.  No choice.  Puppies, ho!  Onward, as rapidly as possible!

Finally, finally, the road appeared again some distance ahead.  This time SPHP was almost certain of it.  Stopping to peer through the darkness, what was that?  A strange, muffled sound.  Listen!  Where was it coming from?  Below!  It took a moment to realize that the sound was Tillson Creek.  The creek was underfoot, buried beneath snow and ice.  Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP were all standing on it!

At least it made for an easy creek crossing.  Lupe, Big Sid and SPHP made it to the road.  This was it!  The real deal and not an illusion.  Stars shone above, but the expedition was saved once again.  Lupe and Sidney left Tillson Creek behind.  Soon the last of Swede Gulch would be left behind, too.  Following the level road for a mile E back to Nahant would be easy.

Hah, fools!  Around a bit of a bend, to everyone’s dismay, a 5 foot high snowdrift covered the entire roadbed as far as it was possible to see.  On both sides, forested slopes dropped steeply N toward the lower end of Swede Gulch where Tillson Creek could still be heard rippling away.

This snow was soft.  It wouldn’t even support Lupe.  Half a mile of post holing lay ahead.  No alternative.  Sidney, especially, struggled mightily.  Tough, very tough.  And cold.

At last it was over.  The rest of the way was easy, except for pervading weariness and cramping muscles.  An exhausted final march E to Nahant, and then N to the intersection of Hwy 17 and USFS Road No. 256.

A snow and mud-free spot!  SPHP collapsed on the pavement to recover.  Lupe and Sidney laid down nearby for the same purpose.  What a day!  Stars twinkled above.  The full moon shone down.  Silence.  The eternal blackness of space and time.  Still a little farther to go, but what a glorious moment!  What a glorious night!

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