7:57 AM, 35ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Dalton Lake trailhead – Not a cloud in the sky. Supposed to warm up, too – highs in the upper 60’s ºF expected. A perfect day for taking this monster on!
Oooooh! Centennial Trail again today, SPHP?
You know it! This is it! King Kong of the Centennial Trail system – Dalton Lake to Elk Creek. 12.8 miles one way between trailheads, 25.6 miles round trip! Think you’re up to it, Looper?
Just point me at the trail, SPHP, and try not to fall too far behind!
The trailhead was just a short distance below the Dalton Lake dam. Lupe set out on Centennial Trail No. 89 heading NW across a field of dry grass to a wooden footbridge over Little Elk Creek. Beyond the bridge, the trail turned W and began to climb. In nothing flat, Lupe was up on the dam with a view of Dalton Lake. The little lake was still icy, but the ice didn’t look very thick.
0.1 mile done, 25.5 miles to go! As lovely as Dalton Lake was, Lupe didn’t have time to dilly-dally. A brief look, and the Carolina Dog was on her way. Centennial Trail No. 89 continued W gradually climbing into the forest. Loop came to a bike access ramp, the 2nd one so far.
The trail went W beyond Dalton Lake before doubling back to the ENE. Lupe was already too high to see Dalton Lake again through all the trees.
The Elk Creek trailhead was nowhere near 12.8 miles away as the crow flies, not even half of that. However, Centennial Trail No. 89 was going to do an awful lot of winding around before getting there, and started out true to form. Although bound for the ridge N of Dalton Lake, the trail didn’t switchback directly up to it. Instead, climbing at a gradual to moderate pace, it went clear around the E end before curling up into a valley N of the ridge.
Climbing all the way, Centennial Trail No. 89 swooped around the upper W end of the valley N of the ridge, then straightened out as it turned SE. Lupe reached the much flatter region on top of the ridge along the NE edge. The trail turned sharply W here, following an abandoned road.
The grassy road soon led into USFS Road No. 704.1B, which continued WNW, a very easy trek since Lupe was barely gaining any elevation at all now. Before long, No. 704.1B made a big gentle curve around the W end of the valley Loop had just climbed out of.
Another higher ridge was to the N, and Centennial Trail No. 89 made the same basic maneuver as before. No. 704.1B turned E, and started losing elevation. Approaching the E end of the ridge, the trail left the road, veering off to the NE at a point where several big rocks were visible.
A nice single track again, Centennial Trail No. 89 proceeded around the E end of the second ridge past a number of huge rocks. It then turned NW, climbing steadily through a fairly open region with views of lower forested hills and ridges off to the NE.
What a difference a few days had made! 4 days ago, Lupe had been much farther S exploring a different section of the Centennial Trail. Patches of snow and ice hadn’t been hard to come by then, but today was different. Hardly any around.
April had started off unseasonably warm, and things were warming up rapidly today, too. SPHP had already shed all extra layers. Loopster was greatly cheered when she finally came to a spot to cool off. Laying right down on the ice, she chomped away at a small patch of crusty snow.
All these ridges Centennial Trail No. 89 wound about were connected. Lupe was already close to a saddle leading to HP5173, the high point of the next ridge to the N. The trail reached the saddle very efficiently, without having to downclimb at all. At the saddle, the trail turned N, starting a steeper ascent. Loop passed a first minor rock formation.
The trail wound around in the forest a bit before arriving along the SW edge of the ridge. For the first time, Lupe had tree-broken views to the W. Staying near the edge on much flatter terrain, the trail turned NW. SPHP soon called a halt.
Time for a break. With so little snow around, Lupe needed water, and SPHP wanted to have a look at the topo map. (Note: Switch to CalTopo USFS for a map showing Centennial Trail No. 89)
This is a nice spot, SPHP! Where are we anyway?
We’re off to a good start, Loop, but that’s about it. Looks like we’re 0.25 mile SE of HP5173. Appears the trail will go just about right over HP5173, but the terrain might be so flat we may not even notice it. Hardly matters. The highest point along this segment of Centennial Trail No. 89, or close to it, is Peak 5181, which is another 1.5 miles past HP5173.
Does the trail go over Peak 5181, too?
No, not quite. Appears to be a little E of the trail.
Are we going to visit Peak 5181, then? Seems like we ought to, if it’s the highest point along the way.
Oh, yes! We will. The map even shows a survey benchmark there. We’ll have a look around to see if we can find it.
With the Carolina Dog hydrated again, the trek resumed. Loop headed NW along the SW rim of the ridge above a line of small limestone cliffs, an exceptionally easy march since the ground was nearly flat.
The trail probably didn’t go exactly over HP5173, but must have passed very close to it. Neither Loop nor SPHP paid much attention. Occasional views to the SW were more interesting. Nothing too spectacular, mostly long forested ridges, but Peak 5300 and White Mansion (5,340 ft.) were identifiable.
Beyond HP5173, the trail turned N, beginning to lose elevation. Far to the NW, Lupe caught a narrow glimpse of distant Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) with its still snowy ski runs. The trail then turned NE away from the cliffs and into the forest, start of a longer descent to Pass 5031, which was on the way to Peak 5181.
By the time Lupe made it down to Pass 5031, she was heading NW again. Instead of immediately climbing up onto the ridge leading to Peak 5181, Centennial Trail No. 89 stayed low continuing to the W side of the ridge. It soon turned N, bouncing along maintaining elevation a good 80 to 100 feet below the top.
Notice anything different about the forest around here, SPHP?
Not especially. What are you seeing, Loop?
It’s not what I’m seeing, but what I’m not seeing that’s different, SPHP. Where is all the deadfall? Hardly any at all!
Now that you mention it, you’re right, Loopster! Kind of looks the way the Black Hills used to look. Used to be that you hardly ever saw a dead tree. That was a long time ago now, back before the pine bark beetle infestation started getting so bad 10 years ago.
Well, I like it a lot better this way, SPHP! Can run around without having to worry about breaking my neck at every step!
The trail stayed low for a while. In some places, the forest thinned out up on the slope below the ridgeline. Lupe started seeing large limestone formations along the top of the ridge. Several big platforms looked high enough to get an unobstructed view.
Can’t be too hard to get up there, SPHP! Want to go check out the views?
Yes, but maybe we should wait on that, Loop. We still have a very long way to go. If we get back soon enough, maybe we can go up there for a sunset panorama? What do you think?
Deal, but if we don’t get back in time, we’re going to miss out!
I know it’s taking a chance, but on the other paw, maybe we’ll come to other even more readily accessible viewpoints?
Sunset Heights got skipped for the time being, even though some of the lofty platforms seen only a little farther on looked very tempting, almost surefire winners. The really big rocks were all way up high, but the trail passed some lesser samples. Lupe was beyond the most impressive ones when the trail suddenly made a short switchback higher.
The switchback didn’t get the American Dingo up on top of the ridge right away, but was the start of a gradual climb higher again. Lupe was soon above another line of limestone cliffs where there was some open ground. Perhaps not quite as spectacular as Sunset Heights would have been, but the views had to be almost as good.
A lot of territory could be seen from here. Peak 5300 was still visible to the SW. Custer Peak (6,804) was way off to the W.
Don’t think we’re far from Peak 5181 now, Loop. Shall we go look for it? Should be just up the hill from here.
On it, SPHP! Follow me!
Leaving the trail, Lupe headed NE up a gentle, forested slope. She didn’t have to go far before the terrain leveled out. Pretty flat up here, but the highest region didn’t seem too hard to pick out. A few scattered rocks and some old wood that might have signified something were in a spot that looked like a true summit candidate.
Disappointingly, a quick check failed to reveal any survey benchmarks.
Hmm. Well, I’m not finding anything, Loop. This is probably Peak 5181, though. Want to take a break?
Any chance water and a chocolate coconut bar would be involved, SPHP?
100% likely, sweet Dingo!
The chocolate coconut bar and water break was augmented with a little Taste of the Wild. A comfortably warm and beautiful day, but there didn’t seem to be much point in lingering on Peak 5181. Spotting a rock 150 feet farther E, SPHP led Loop over to it on the chance that the survey marker might be there.
No luck. Oh, well! Nothing higher here than where the American Dingo had taken her break, anyway. That settled, Lupe took a shortcut NW back to Centennial Trail No. 89. The trail went NE a little way before curving back to the NW. To the R, the land sloped higher.
Hang on just a minute, Loop! Let me check the map again.
It all made sense now! Lupe hadn’t been to Peak 5181 yet. It was just up this next slope. Another short off-trail exploration was in order.
Too funny, SPHP! The mighty mountain we’ve been trying to climb turns out to be nothing more than an anthill!
Yeah, well, as anthills go, this one’s humongous!
All those creepy-crawlies give me the heebie-jeebies! Say what you will, I’m not going near it!
Towering more than a foot higher than the rest of flat-topped Peak 5181, an anthill composed of pine needles was the apparent true summit. 100,000 ants swarmed over the top of it, with probably 1,000,000 more hidden within. For some reason, Loopster didn’t want to go anywhere near the anthill. When SPHP’s powers of persuasion failed, the reluctant Carolina Dog got physically carried close to it.
You’ve got 2 seconds, SPHP! Say “chocolate coconut bar!”, I’ll smile, and then I’m outta here!
OK, Loop! … “Squirrel!”
Close enough. Lupe smiled, and ran 20 feet away.
You can have Peak 5181, SPHP! I’m hitting the trail.
Heading down the W slope, a sort of lumpy rock platform was just 20 feet past Centennial Trail No. 89. Looked like there might be some views, but as it turned out, there were too many trees to see all that much.
However, returning to the trail, Loop didn’t have to go too much farther N before discovering some really great viewpoints along the cliff edge. Best of the day!
By now, Lupe was close to the N end of the huge ridge encompassing both HP5173 and Peak 5181. For 2 miles she had been traveling on or near the highest territory of this segment of Centennial Trail No. 89. A drastic change was ahead.
Just beyond the super viewpoints, the trail slanted downward as it began curling E around the N end of the ridge. A long descent NE ensued, as the trail switchbacked lower through shady forest. It was all easy, never getting very steep, with occasional level stretches along the way.
The American Dingo must have lost 400 or 500 feet of elevation by the time she came to a sunny open spot on the NW rim of a big ravine. From here she could see most of the heavily forested slope she had just come down. Off to the E was a glimpse of the line of low ridges separating the Black Hills from the vast prairies of western South Dakota.
The descent still wasn’t over with. Centennial Trail No. 89 continued to loop back and forth as it dropped another 250 feet. The forest was more open down here. Lupe passed occasional clearings. Shortly before the trail finally leveled out, she crossed unmarked USFS Road No. 703.
A new phase was about to begin. Centennial Trail No. 89 began trending NW on a long winding route through denser forest. Near the start of a short jog to the WSW, Lupe came to the Widow-Maker.
Right next to the trail, the Widow-Maker was a giant Ponderosa pine, dead like some others scattered about the forest, but was practically a miracle, a death trap waiting to happen! The ancient tree had been dead so long that half of its lower trunk had already rotted away. What was left looked like it could crumble at any moment. Although only a slight breeze was heard in the treetops, huge gnarled branches way up at the top of the Widow-Maker swayed ominously.
Wow! How is this even possible, Loop? Watch yourself! I’ve never seen a tree so rotten to the core that was still standing!
Don’t worry about me, SPHP! I’ll scoot away fast enough if it begins to topple. You’re the slow one! Don’t let those ugly old branches reach out and grab you! Might I suggest a speedy passage, instead of standing around gawking in the path of destruction?
Seemed like good advice. Hot on Loopster’s heels, SPHP blew by, but the Widow-Maker would get another shot during the return.
The jog WSW soon ended, as the trail crossed a ravine and turned back to the NE. This phenomena was destined to be repeated 3 more times, but on a larger scale. A double-decker boulder marked the start of the first of the larger forays SW.
The SW end of the first large ravine was a low point. Looper was happy to see some snow and ice still lingering in this sheltered spot, and took advantage of it to cool off again and wet her barker. After crossing the ravine, the trail turned NE as before. By the time it turned NW again, the American Dingo was well up on the SW side of Elk Creek Canyon.
The trail kept winding higher. Lupe gained nearly 250 feet of elevation from the low point where the snow and ice had been. From now on, she had tree-broken views of Elk Creek Canyon, except during the forays SW. The second big ravine wasn’t as long as first one, and featured much less elevation change.
Dry Elk Gulch was the last, and biggest of the 3 side ravines, essentially a canyon. As Centennial Trail No. 89 turned into it, Lupe came upon the Scoliosis Tree, a snaky, skinny pine in desperate need of a chiropractor.
The trail went a long way back into Dry Elk Gulch, eventually dropping clear down to the canyon floor. The trail wasn’t even visible up on the other side, which looked dauntingly steep, but it was there. As the trail headed back to the main canyon, Lupe regained 80 feet of elevation she had just lost.
As Lupe put Dry Elk Gulch behind her, Centennial Trail No. 89 swung around to the NW again. Looper was still well above the bottom of Elk Creek Canyon, and began getting glimpses of Bethlehem Cave up on the opposite side.
Centennial Trail No. 89 continued NW beyond the view of Bethlehem Cave, but another change was imminent. Switchbacks led down to the floor of Elk Creek Canyon.
Upon reaching the bottom, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved NW again, now heading upstream next to Elk Creek. The creek was completely dry, apparently the normal state of affairs, although clearly susceptible to flash flooding under the right circumstances.
Vegetation was thick, but hadn’t begun to leaf out yet. Looper enjoyed relatively unobstructed views of the vertical limestone walls of the lower canyon, which would have scarcely been visible later in the season.
The trail followed an old roadbed, or perhaps the course of a railroad which once ran through the canyon. Nearly level for a long way, it was an easy scenic trek.
Centennial Trail No. 89 crossed Elk Creek 5 or 6 times over the course of more than a mile down on the canyon floor. Nylon ropes were generally strung between the trees on the downstream side, presumably to lend support when the stream was actually flowing.
Even without any water in Elk Creek, the stream crossings were some of the most scenic spots, often providing clearer, more dramatic views of the canyon walls.
The end of the canyon trek couldn’t be much farther. Lupe came to a long straightaway in a sort of a ditch away from the creek. Beyond the ditch was one last stream crossing. On the other side, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound up a steep embankment, then proceeded NNE, steadily gaining elevation as it headed up a side valley.
0.5 mile up the valley, Lupe reached USFS Road No. 168, and the sign she’d come so far to see.
3:07 PM, 58ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Elk Creek trailhead – Not a soul around. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone along the trail, either. The Carolina Dog rested on the ground next to SPHP.
Quite the trek wasn’t it, SPHP? A little bit of everything! Uphill, downhill, flat stuff, curves, wiggles, straight stretches, views from on high, along canyon rims, steep slopes, and from down below.
A little bit of everything? More like a lot! Otherwise, yeah, you’re right.
One disappointing thing, though, SPHP!
What was that, Loop? No water in the creek?
No water anywhere! But I was thinking more of the insanely incredible distance between chocolate coconut bars. How about doing something about that?
Of course! Just give me a moment. Need to kick these boots off for a while. We even have a baked chicken breast, if you’d care for some.
40 minutes later, boots were back on. Chocolate coconut bar, baked chicken, apple, water, and Taste of the Wild supplies had all taken a hit.
12.8 miles down, 12.8 miles to go! Ready, Loop?
She was.
7:04 PM, 50ºF, viewpoint NNW of Peak 5181 – Not quite going to make it to Sunset Heights in time, but this was good enough. Lupe had gotten to see most of this segment of Centennial Trail No. 89 again, and now stood enjoying a final distant view toward the golden W.
Only a quick stop, and the American Dingo continued S. The sun broke through a distant cloudbank shortly before reaching the lumpy platform directly W of Peak 5181. Kind of a sweet moment!
Without any great enthusiasm for visiting a giant anthill, Lupe humored SPHP, returning briefly to Peak 5181’s summit. Then it was back to the trail to hurry S.
Light faded. Stars glittered. A breeze whispered night tales. Miles back, the Widow-Maker groaned restlessly under its own rotten weight. Stars winked out. Getting cloudy. Darkness deepened. So quiet! So black!
Profound weariness setting in, but downhill practically all the way now. The little flashlight came out, throwing the sinister prowling shadow of a Carolina Dog on the long winding path of Centennial Trail No. 89 ahead. (End 9:42 PM, 42ºF, Dalton Lake)
Links:
Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition
Next Trail Section North
Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 274: Centennial Trail No. 89: Elk Creek to Alkali Creek (4-10-21)
Next Trail Section South
Centennial Trail No 89 Brochure & Map
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