Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 274 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Elk Creek to Alkali Creek (4-10-21)

7:19 AM, 26ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Elk Creek trailhead – SPHP opened the door, and Lupe hopped back into the G6.

What’s wrong, Looper?  Did you hear gunfire?

No!  It’s freezing out there!  What happened, SPHP?  Last time we were here, it was so nice out!  I’m staying in where it’s warm until you’re ready.

Maybe you shouldn’t have rolled in the snow?  Anyway, suit yourself.  I’ll be ready in a few minutes.  Supposed to warm up into the 60’s ºF later on.  That’ll take the chill off!

Back at the Elk Creek trailhead for the 1st time since Expedition No. 273 – 5 days ago!

What was wrong with the Carolina Dog?  A frolic in the snow wouldn’t ordinarily bother Lupe at all, but now she sat alone shivering in the G6.  Was Looper getting sick?  SPHP hoped not.

Only 5 days ago, Lupe had made it here from Dalton Lake on a lovely warm afternoon in advance of a spring snowstorm that hit the Black Hills the next day.  Although a lot of snow had melted since then, this morning was admittedly off to a crispy start.  The plan was to continue Loopster’s Centennial Trail No. 89 explorations all the way to the Alkali Creek trailhead – 11.5 long, winding miles away.

If she felt up to it, that is.

Relevant portion of the posted trail map.

Alrighty, Loop!  I’m ready!  Are you feeling OK?  You up for this?

Without the slightest hesitation, the American Dingo left the warmth of the G6.  No sign of shivering or shaking now.

Of course!  Which way?  N?

Yes, indeed!  Onward!  Puppy ho!

Crossing USFS Road No. 168, Lupe left the Elk Creek trailhead.

Setting out for Alkali Creek. Photo looks NNE.

Crusty snow supported Lupe’s weight, but crumbled under SPHP’s, as Centennial Trail No. 89 headed NNE up a cold ravine still in shadow.  The trail soon climbed out of the ravine to a flatter region to the NW where the forest had been thinned recently.  The fresh openness revealed only a general ugliness in the wake of recent destruction.

Heading up the ravine. Photo looks NNE.
On the visually unappealing loop to the NW. Photo looks NE.

This jaunt to the NW was short-lived.  Climbing again, the trail looped back to the E before resuming a NE course.  Sunlight streamed through the trees, promising relief from the lingering chill.

Sunshine ahead! Photo looks NE.

A moderately steep rate of ascent soon diminished.  Centennial Trail No. 89 flattened again, as Loop reached another region where the forest had been thinned.  She was almost to the top of a rise when the trail curved N, avoiding it.  Curious about what might be on the other side, Lupe left the trail continuing to the high ground.

In the upper thinned region. From here, Lupe ventured over to the high ground on the R. Photo looks NNE.

The rise provided a glimpse of distant prairies beyond the Black Hills, but nothing stood out as being of particular interest.

Turning NW, Lupe went down a snowy slope to rejoin Centennial Trail No. 89 where it crossed USFS Road No. 169 S of HP5141.  From here, the trail went WNW maintaining elevation along a slope providing a more interesting view to the W.

About to head down to cross USFS Road No. 169 (R). Photo looks NW.
Looking WSW from the S slopes of HP5141.

Upon reaching a saddle between HP5141 and HP5212 (topo map), Loop passed a sign indicating she had left the Elk Creek trailhead a mile ago.  Crossing the saddle, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued W traversing the slope at the S end of the HP5212 ridge.

Skirting the S end of the HP5212 ridge. Photo looks WSW.

After rounding the S end, the trail wound along the W side of the ridge.  Elevation changes were gradual, down slightly at first, then higher as Lupe continued on.  Views were pleasant, but always tree-broken.

Easy going on the SW side of the ridge.
A pleasant, if unspectacular view. Photo looks S.
On a short snowy stretch. Photo looks ENE.
Heading N.

Close to the N end of the ridge, Lupe reached a wide spot at the bottom of a switchback.  According to a sign, this was point S15 of the Sturgis area trails system.  Another trail destined for the Sturgis City Dams veered off to the SW.

At point S15. Photo looks SE.

Any interest in the Sturgis City Dams, SPHP?

Not today, Loop.  Got a different side trip in mind.  We’re almost to it.

Sticking with Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe headed up the switchback, which made a jog to the W before turning NE.  Pass 5140 was just ahead.

Closing in on Pass 5140. Photo looks ESE.

Arriving at Pass 5140, Lupe found herself in a field.  The S half of this field was snow-covered and sloped up the N end of the HP5212 ridge.  Peak 5261, the actual high point of the ridge, was somewhere up among the pines, not too far away.

At Pass 5140. Photo looks S.

Peakbagging time!  Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe headed up the snowy slope.  Didn’t take long to reach a first high spot where the terrain leveled out.  A slightly higher point was only a few hundred feet away.  Going over there, Lupe arrived at Peak 5261’s true summit.

Approaching Peak 5261’s true summit (Center). Photo looks S.
Peak 5261 summit. Custer Peak (Center) and Terry Peak (R) on the horizon. Photo looks SW.

9:16 AM, 47ºF, Peak 5261 –

That was easy, SPHP!  Glad we came up here, too!  These views are way better than what we’ve been seeing from the trail!  Can we stay a while?

Sure thing, Loop!  A little early for a break, but so what?  Peak 5261 is the highest point anywhere close to this segment of Centennial Trail No. 89.  Might as well enjoy it!  Only peak we’ll be climbing today.

The highest ground consisted of a line of smallish loose rocks.  SPHP found a spot to sit down.  Lupe tried laying on the rocks, but SPHP’s lap was a comfier vantage point.  Facing WSW, both Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) and Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) were easily recognizable on the horizon.

Custer Peak (Center) from Peak 5261. Photo looks SW.
Custer Peak. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
At the summit rest spot. Custer Peak (L) and Terry Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.
Terry Peak (Center) and Bald Mountain (6,617 ft.) (R). Photo looks W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

A pleasant time was spent gazing at the views, during which a chocolate coconut bar met its match.  Lupe turned down part of a fried chicken breast, but SPHP wasn’t so picky.  Water wasn’t in demand, either, since the Carolina Dog had been eating snow.  Near the end of Looper’s stay, SPHP realized there was a fairly decent view of Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) from here, too.

Bear Butte (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.
Bear Butte (L). Photo looks NNE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

40 minutes shot by.  A final look around, and Lupe was on her way back down Peak 5261’s N slope.  Upon reaching Centennial Trail No. 89 again, she headed down the SE side of Pass 5140.

Final moments on Peak 5261. Photo looks SSW.
Back at Pass 5140. Photo looks SE.

Still more than 9 miles to the Alkali Creek trailhead!  Looper would lose elevation most of the way, but that didn’t start in earnest quite yet.  A short descent from Pass 5140 led to an easy uphill section heading NNE along the edge of the forest.  Last chance for a glance back at Peak 5261.

Heading up the next hill NE of Peak 5261. Photo looks NE.
Peak 5261 (L). Photo looks SW.

Although the topo map (switch to CalTopo USFS to see route) showed Centennial Trail No. 89 following USFS Road No. 139 in the region ahead, the trail actually remained a single track, staying E and somewhat lower than the road, as it wound N along the upper W end of Beaver Gulch.

USFS Road No. 139 is on the hillside ahead, but the trail never went all the way up to it. Photo looks N.
Easy going on a flat section overlooking Beaver Gulch (R). Photo looks NNE.
On a slow descent. Photo looks N.

A good mile beyond Peak 5261, Centennial Trail No. 89 veered farther from USFS Road No. 139 and went over a little rise.  Lupe hadn’t lost all that much elevation yet, a bit over 200 feet.  Now, however, a somewhat steeper descent began as the trail turned NW down into Bulldog Gulch.  A sense of remoteness grew as Loopster entered the shade of a denser forest.  Snow was deep on a long switchback to the ESE, but turning soft as the day warmed up.

Starting down into Bulldog Gulch. Photo looks N.
On the snowy switchback. Photo looks SE.
A little farther on. Photo looks ESE.

The long switchback wasn’t steep at all, but once the Carolina Dog got past it, the trail steepened considerably.  Lupe soon reached the bottom of Bulldog Gulch.  The trail crossed the drainage several times.  Except for the snow, it was dry this high up.

In Bulldog Gulch where Centennial Trail No. 89 first crosses the drainage.
Continuing the descent. Photo looks NE.

Bulldog Gulch was just beginning to widen out when the trail flattened and veered away to the E.  A short incline brought Lupe to a minor pass beyond which she entered a different part of the drainage.  For 0.5 mile, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound NE through a sunnier, more open forest, steadily losing elevation.

Eventually, it all led right back to the main course of Bulldog Gulch.  Down here, a little water trickled along in Bulldog Creek.

In the sunny forest. Photo looks NE.
Returning to the main course of Bulldog Gulch (L). Photo looks NE.
Scenic Bulldog Creek! Photo looks SW.

Right after crossing Bulldog Creek, Lupe came to an unusual structure.

Look, SPHP!  A ticket booth!

Seems we’re a bit late for the show, Loopster.

A slow day at the Bulldog Gulch ticket booth.

Maybe the strange structure was a toll booth and not a ticket booth?  The attendant didn’t seem to be around, in any case.  Odd, but nothing to be done about it, so Lupe continued on.

The trail crossed Bulldog Creek a couple more times before leaving it for good.  Winding N up over a minor ridge, it then descended to a low point where USFS Road No. 139 suddenly reappeared.  After crossing the road, Lupe began a more sustained climb out of Bulldog Gulch.

At the second Bulldog Creek crossing. Photo looks SSW.
Beginning to climb out of Bulldog Gulch. Photo looks W.
An amazing dense forest. Photo looks SE.

Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation before reaching a ridgeline.  On the other side was a sunny meadow, and a view of the prairies beyond the Black Hills.  The trail wound NW a bit higher up the ridge before coming to another junction with the Sturgis area trails system, where a side trail continuing up the ridge promised another route to the Sturgis City Dams.

Still a few miles to go, but Lupe had come a long way since Peak 5261.  Break time!  Loop laid down next to SPHP near a lone little group of Pasque flowers.

Can see the prairie now! On the ridgeline after exiting Bulldog Gulch. Photo looks E.
Pasques, the South Dakota state flower.

Another chocolate coconut bar bit the dust.  Just an appetizer this time!  Lupe was ready for some Taste of the Wild, too.  For some reason, the finicky Carolina Dog still declined fried chicken.  SPHP had some, then munched an apple while consulting the map.

So, how are we doing, SPHP?

Great, Loop!  Near as I can tell, we’re right at the junction with USFS Road No. 139.1E.  Pretty much all downhill the rest of the way.

Road!  What road?  Do you have that map upside down, SPHP?

Think it’s been abandoned long ago.  This side trail to the Sturgis City Dams might be all that’s left of it.

The trek resumed.  Centennial Trail No. 89 left the ridgeline continuing NW.  Lupe lost elevation slowly at first, but the pace then quickened.  Reaching the “Twisted Trunk”, a small opening provided a glimpse of Deadman Mountain (4,943 ft.) off to the W.

Resuming the trek. Photo looks NW.
At the Twisted Trunk. Deadman Mountain (L) in the distance. Photo looks W.

The trail made a series of long switchbacks, gradually working its way N.  For a long way there was nothing to see except forest.  However, Loop made great progress, and the trail eventually reached a wooden fence.  A sign posted on a tree next to the fence warned about a friendly dog named Poett that liked to go on long walks with strangers.

In the beautiful forest.
Apparently Poett’s days of wandering off with strangers were over.

No sign of Poett today, so Lupe kept going.  The trail turned away from the fence without crossing it, once again heading NW.  A thick band of limestone capped a minor ridge up the slope to the R.  Centennial Trail No. 89 ran below this cap for 0.25 mile until it angled off to the N.

After a couple of short switchbacks, the trail curved NE, bringing Loop right back to the limestone.

Not far from Poett’s wanted poster, near the start of the limestone cap. Photo looks N.
N end of the limestone. Photo looks ENE.

The limestone ended at a gap created by Alkali Creek.  As Centennial Trail No. 89 continued NE past a wall of rock, the whole formation sank below the surface.  The trail promptly curved E.  Now on top of the sunken limestone, Lupe entered a clearing amid a more open forest.

Up on the limestone. Photo looks E.

One more switchback, and the long, forested descent was over.  Ahead, a vast field stretched toward the roar of traffic on I-90.  Prairies beyond the Black Hills were visible through a break in a line of ridges to the E.

At the start of the big field. Photo looks E.
On a Dingo access ramp. Photo looks E.
Looking back at the Black Hills, now being left behind. Photo looks W.

Not much farther to go!  Lupe headed straight for I-90, passing under a railroad bridge just before reaching it.  Two concrete tunnels provided a choice of safe passage below I-90.  Once through, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned ESE straight for the still unseen Alkali Creek trailhead.  Trotting by a line of scrub oaks down in the creek bottom, Lupe went over a rise, and there it was, dead ahead.

Approaching the railroad bridge. Photo looks N.
Choice of tunnels beneath I-90. Photo looks NE.
Under I-90. Photo looks NE.
On the final stretch. Photo looks E.
Alkali Creek trailhead dead ahead! Photo looks E.

2:31 PM, 64ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Alkali Creek trailhead – The S end of Peak 4027 rose beyond the trailhead display.  Lupe had been up there before, but wouldn’t be making another ascent today.  Her 11.5 mile long Centennial Trail No. 89 trek from the Elk Creek trailhead was over, but the Carolina Dog would soon have to turn right back around and repeat it.  Going back was the hard way, too, uphill much of the way!

At the Alkali Creek trailhead. Peak 4027 (Center). Photo looks NW.

Lupe sauntered down to Alkali Creek for a drink.  The afternoon was sunny and warm down here, and snow didn’t exist.  Then it was up the bank to rest by the vacant picnic tables amid the leafless oaks.

In Alkali Creek.
We’ll rest here! Alkali Creek picnic ground.

Lupe wasn’t hungry.  While SPHP polished off what was left of the fried chicken, she laid in the shade beneath the picnic table.  So nice out!  Several vehicles were parked at the trailhead, but no one came around.

3:08 PM, Centennial Trail No. 89 – 30 peaceful minutes had flown.  With the Alkali Creek trailhead behind her now, Lupe stood on a little rise looking W.  Back to the Black Hills!  The Elk Creek trailhead seemed unimaginably far away.

Starting back. Photo looks W.

7:16 PM, 44ºF, Peak 5261 – Just in time!  Lupe stood bathed in horizontal rays of sunlight, the sun hanging barely above the hills.  With few clouds to speak of, sunset wasn’t going to amount to much.  Even so, a respite way up here on Peak 5261 from the finally concluded endless uphill march was reward in itself.

Sunset on Peak 5261. Photo looks S.

Absolutely famished, the American Dingo devoured the remaining Taste of the Wild supply before curling up on SPHP’s lap to watch the show.  10 minutes of glory, and the golden orb fell as if mortally wounded.  Sinking N of Terry Peak, it was gone.

In a chilly S breeze, Lupe and SPHP sat watching while a faint rosy blush in the clouds above rallied, then sickened, turning old and gray before its time.  Dusk.  Oh, well.  Still more than 2.5 miles to go.  Better make use of what light remained.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Leaving rarely visited new friend Peak 5261 for the second time today, Lupe headed back to Centennial Trail No. 89.  (End 9:00 PM, 36ºF)

Custer Peak from Peak 5269, Black Hills of South Dakota, 4-10-21

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                    Prior Black Hills Expedition

Next Trail Section North

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 241 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Alkali Creek to Fort Meade (12-10-18)

Next Trail Section South

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 273 – Centennial Trial No. 89: Dalton Lake to Elk Creek (4-5-21)

Centennial Trail No 89 Brochure & Map

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