Mutt & Jeff Lakes – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Beauty & Becker Lakes, Beartooth Mountains, Wyoming (8-11-12)

Day 4 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast

The clouds were gone and the rain had stopped when Lupe woke SPHP up in the Honda Element. Despite having slept sitting up, SPHP felt pretty good. Lupe, of course, felt great. She’d slept very comfortably on a pile of pillows and blankets in the back of the Element. Lanis was still asleep in the driver’s seat getting his beauty rest.

Lupe and SPHP got out to greet the day, and take a look at the fabulous view of Pilot (11,699 ft.) and Index (11,240 ft.) Peaks from the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Despite the cloudless sky, there was a haze in the air that kept the view from being as crisp as it might have been. Only days later did SPHP realize that the persistent haze was due to huge wildfires burning in Idaho.

Pilot (L) and Index (R) Peaks from the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.

While Lanis continued getting 40 winks, Lupe and SPHP went across to the S side of the Beartooth Hwy and took a stroll up a very grassy little valley. Lupe was happy barking at squirrels in the forest along the edges of the valley.

Returning to the Element, Lupe and SPHP woke Lanis up. Time to get a move on! New adventures and explorations awaited! Lanis drove E on the Beartooth Highway. E of the junction with the St. Joseph Scenic Byway, the Beartooth Hwy wound up to an overlook with a view toward the huge canyon to the S.

Lanis at the overlook. Yes, that's Pilot and Index Peaks again in the distance on the R. — Lanis at the overlook. Yes, that’s Pilot and Index Peaks again in the distance on the R.

Looking S across the huge canyon that the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone flows through.

It turned out that in the few minutes Lanis and SPHP were admiring the view, Lupe had found another way to entertain herself. She was very industriously, though unsuccessfully thus far, trying to dig marmots out of their holes in the ground. It was hard work, but Lupe was pursuing it with great vigor and enthusiasm. SPHP had to hustle her into the Element before there was trouble.

Lanis drove on to the Top of the World Store. The Element was in need of fuel.

Looking WNW at Beartooth Butte from Hwy 212 at the Top of the World Store. — Looking WNW at **Beartooth Butte** **(10,514 ft.)** from Hwy 212 at the Top of the World Store.

The Top of the World Store along Beartooth Hwy No. 212.

Lupe waits while the Element gets fueled up.

Lanis props up the Top of the World Store sign. Or is it the other way around?

A little over a mile E of the Top of the World Store was a turn to the N to the Island Lake campground. Breakfast was enjoyed at a picnic ground overlooking Island Lake. At over 9,500 feet elevation, Island Lake was already in alpine territory. It was going to be a great starting point for Lupe’s first exploratory trek into the Beartooth Mountains.

Island Lake in the Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks NNW.

Cheerios and blueberries! Alpo for Lupe.

After breakfast, Lupe, Lanis, and SPHP took the Beartooth High Lakes trail heading N along the W side of Island Lake. There were gorgeous wildflowers everywhere. The trail was in good shape and easy to follow. There wasn’t much elevation gain or loss. Around each bend was another delightful scene of alpine splendor. The trail went past Island Lake, Night Sky Lake, and then a series of smaller lakes.

Looking N along the Beartooth High Lakes trail.

Lonesome Mountain looms in the distance beyond a pond in the Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks NNW.

After a while, the trail turned S and went down a hill to Beauty Lake. The intention hadn’t been to come here. Somewhere just upstream, SPHP had lost the Beartooth High Lakes trail and wound up on the Beauty Lake trail. It really didn’t matter. Lupe was on a first time exploration of the area. Everything was new and exciting no matter which way she went.

Beauty Lake was large, and looked deep compared to most of the other lakes Lupe had been by so far. It was in a very pretty setting. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP climbed up on a rocky knob along the NE side of the lake that provided a nice viewpoint. By now, it was time for a lunch break. Lupe played among the rocks and trees.

Soon it felt so warm out, SPHP considered taking a dip in the lake. The water felt pretty cold, though. Only Lupe was actually brave enough to enter the water. Even she just waded around close to the shore.

Don't tell me you're going to chicken out on me again, SPHP! The water is fine, really! You'll be numb soon enough! — Don’t tell me you’re going to chicken out on me again, SPHP! The water is fine, really! You’ll be numb soon enough!

Lupe wades around in the cold waters of Beauty Lake.

The only map of the area that Lanis and SPHP had was a very simple tourist map called “Wayfinding on the Beartooth All-American Road” that Lanis had picked up at a visitor center in Cooke City. It showed that the Beauty Lake trail would take Lupe back to the Beartooth Highway close to Beartooth Lake, which was miles from the Honda Element. SPHP didn’t want to go that way.

The map also showed that the Beartooth High Lakes trail continued NW across a stream near the N end of Beauty Lake. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went a short distance back N to where a very lovely stream flowed down to Beauty Lake. Searching for the Beartooth High Lakes trail on the other side of the stream revealed nothing. There were lots of beautiful wildflowers, but no continuation of the trail was in sight.

Not ready to give up, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP followed the stream for a little way up a small canyon. There were more rocks and wildflowers, but again, no trail was found. The going got progressively more difficult. Lanis had an exciting time chasing a water bottle he dropped in the creek back a considerable distance downstream before he was able to retrieve it.

The stream N of Beauty Lake. Photo looks S.

Lanis looking for the rest of the Beartooth High Lakes trail. Not really finding it. Lots of flowers blooming by the stream, though!

Lupe supposedly looking for the trail. SPHP suspects she was really looking for squirrels.

Lupe thought Lanis was just hilarious trying to catch that water bottle!

Hmm, maybe the tourist map wasn’t terribly accurate? Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left the stream, and followed the Beauty Lake trail farther back up the hill looking for a junction with the Beartooth High Lakes trail. As it turned out, there was a trail junction up there!

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed N on this new trail. None of them realized this wasn’t the Beartooth High Lakes trail either. Again it didn’t matter. The new trail was in good shape, and went into even more beautiful country!

The new trail soon headed N between Mutt & Jeff Lakes, which are very close together and connected by a stream that flows down to Mutt Lake (not pictured to the L of this photo). Jeff Lake is seen beyond Lanis. The trail continued across the rocks seen on the far side of Jeff Lake, and on up a hill through the gap to a little pass. In the pass there was a mucky pond and rocks to scramble around. Photo looks N.

The mucky little pond in the pass N of Jeff Lake. Photo looks S.

The new trail went N, passing by a couple of ponds. Then it went down a short hill to go between two lakes (Mutt & Jeff) that were very close together. A broad stream flowed gently between the lakes, and required some rock hopping to get across. Beyond the stream, the trail went across a boulder field on the NW side of Jeff Lake, before continuing up a hillside to a relatively low gap between mountains.

In the gap was a mucky pond and some boulders to work around. The trail then went gradually downhill. Before too long, there was a view of the S end of a gorgeous lake. Unknown to Lupe, Lanis and SPHP at the time, this was Becker Lake.

Becker Lake is a fairly large, long lake extending N/S. The S end is the largest, and tucked in against big rock walls and hills. The N end is narrower, and more out in the open. The trail did not go down to Becker Lake, but stayed well above it to the E. For a while, the trail went completely out of sight of the lake, but the lake eventually came into view again farther N.

Part of the S end of Becker Lake comes into view. Lonesome Mountain is seen in the distance on the R.

Lupe explores the forest near the trail.

This big tree scarred by lightning was near the trail.

Lanis' moss and lichens photo of the day! — Lanis’ moss and lichens photo of the day!

While out of sight of Becker Lake, the trail passed by the W shore of this little pond. Photo looks N.

Part of the high ridge to the E of Becker Lake.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP followed the trail N past Becker Lake. The trail was now passing along the E side of a creek coming down through a broad grassy valley. A woman coming down the trail said this part of the trail was in Montana!

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP continued on a little way, but it was close to 5:00 PM now. It was soon time to turn around and head back to the Honda Element at Island Lake, before it got too late. Lupe’s route back included everything except the side trip to Beauty Lake again. She had a wonderful time sniffing and exploring the entire way back.

Going to Beauty and Becker Lakes was one of the most glorious days Lupe had ever spent in the mountains anywhere. This day was a real highlight of her 2012 Dingo Vacation!

Don't forget to sniff the air! — Don’t forget to sniff the air!

Going back down from the little pass toward Jeff Lake near the end of the day. Photo looks S.

Looking NNW back across Island Lake toward the high country where Lupe had such a great time in the Beartooths.

Links:

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Lupe and SPHP returned on subsequent Dingo Vacations in 2013 & 2014 to explore farther into Montana N of Becker Lake. Click on the red links below to view Lupe’s other posts about this stunning part of the Beartooth Mountains:

The Journey to Two Bits Lake, Beartooth Mountains (7-12-13)

Sky Pilot Lake, Beartooth Mountains of Montana (7-17-13)

Lonesome Mountain in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana (8-3-14)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2012 West Coast Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Journey to Two Bits Lake, Beartooth Mountains (7-12-13)

Lupe and SPHP first came to explore the Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains of NW Wyoming and S Montana in August, 2012 on Lupe’s first ever big summer Dingo Vacation. Lanis had been along then, too. Lupe and SPHP were completely enthralled with these beautiful mountains full of alpine lakes, streams and forests, and eager to return in 2013.

This glorious long day hike starts at Island Lake (elevation 9,518 ft.) in NW Wyoming and gains less than 1,000 ft., with a high point of around 10,360 ft. on a ridge reached N of Jasper Lake shortly before arriving at Two Bits Lake. Lupe and SPHP found no discernable trail the last part of the hike beyond Jasper Lake. The hike passes just E of Lonesome Mountain, the highest peak Lupe has ever climbed to date (6-23-15), although she didn’t climb it until 2014, about a year after making the hike that is the subject of this post.

Clicking on this blue Lonesome Mountain link will take you to the Peakbagger.com page for Lonesome Mountain which features a topographic map of this area. Clicking on this red Lonesome Mountain link will take you to Lupe’s blog post on climbing Lonesome Mountain in 2014.

The Island Lake trailhead is near the Island Lake campground on the N side of Beartooth Highway No. 212 in NW Wyoming. (Both use the same access road off the highway.) The Island Lake campground is approximately 2 miles E of the Top of the World Store & Motel or roughly 15-20 miles E of Hwy 212’s junction with the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Hwy 296. Lanis & SPHP purchased topographic maps of the area at the Top of the World Store in 2012.

Lupe woke up early on the 3rd day of her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies. She and SPHP had spent the night in the G6 due to rain, after having claimed their favorite camping spot on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River the day before. It was early, but already light out. The sky was mostly cloudy, but it was no longer raining or even threatening to rain. Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6 eager to greet the new day in the Beartooths.

Set up on the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone, July 2013 — Set up on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, July 11, 2013

Swarms of mosquitoes were eager to greet Lupe and SPHP, too. Lupe and SPHP beat a hasty retreat back into the G6. Lupe snoozed another 30 minutes while SPHP made journal entries. Eventually a squirrel woke Lupe up and she just had to get out to bark at it. She buried the only “Minties” bone SPHP has ever given her under a tree near the tent. SPHP resolved to retrieve it after checking out the maps for a place to go exploring.

Back in August, 2012, Lupe, SPHP and Lanis had taken a fabulous hike from the Island Lake trailhead to Beauty Lake and then doubling back to a side trail to Becker Lake. SPHP decided exploring the area above tree line beyond Becker Lake would be great fun for Lupe. By 10:00 AM, Lupe was setting out on the trail from Island Lake. Lupe passed by lakes she had first seen with Lanis in 2012 including Island Lake, Night Lake and Flake Lake. Lupe was making great progress along the trail, partly because mosquitoes became a big problem anytime SPHP stopped for even a few moments.

SPHP was watching for a side trail angling to the right that led to Mutt & Jeff Lakes and then went on to Becker Lake and beyond, and yet somehow missed it. When the trail started to curve to the left and rapidly lose elevation, SPHP remembered it was about to descend to Beauty Lake. SPHP realized Lupe had gone too far. Lupe and SPHP turned around and went back in search of the side trail to Becker Lake and beyond, and this time found it. Upon reaching Mutt & Jeff Lakes, SPHP knew for certain Lupe was headed in the right direction.

Mutt & Jeff Lakes are very close together. The trail goes between the two lakes, crossing a broad connecting stream. There is no bridge, but there are quite a few rocks in the stream and stranded bits of grassy or bushy land. SPHP managed to hop across from rock to rock without getting non-waterproof boots too wet. Lupe had no problem leaping from one rock to the next, or just wading through enjoying the cold, clear water.

Once across the stream, the trail turns NE and crosses a boulder field that extends right down to the NW shore of Jeff Lake. Past Jeff Lake, the trail heads N up a small headwall and then along the E side of a shallow pond (more boulders here) in a saddle.

Jeff Lake in the Beartooth Mountains. The trail crosses the boulders at the base of the hill (L) and then goes up around the right side of the hill. Mutt Lake is just to the left of this photo. (Not pictured.)

Soon after passing the saddle, a portion of the S end of Becker Lake came into view. Lupe followed the trail N through the woods well above the E shore of Becker Lake. Towards the N end of Becker Lake, the trail was out in the open and closer to the lake.

There were just scattered groups of trees around as Lupe and SPHP left Wyoming N of Becker Lake and entered Montana on the way to Albino Lake. The trail stayed on the E side of the stream coming down from Albino Lake to Becker Lake. The last few trees were at Albino Lake (10,000 feet elevation), which is situated just E of Lonesome Mountain. Lupe loved the open ground of the high country, although without trees there was the drawback of no more squirrels to bark at.

Lupe near the trail E of Becker Lake. Photo looks N.

Looking S from the trail on the E side of Becker Lake.

The stream coming down from Albino Lake on its way to Becker Lake. Photo looks N.

Lonesome Mountain (L) lies just W of Albino Lake. This photo is taken looking NW from the trail near the stream flowing out of Albino Lake. — **Lonesome Mountain** **(11,399 ft.)** (L) lies just W of Albino Lake. This photo is taken looking NW from the trail near the stream flowing out of Albino Lake.

Albino Lake and Lonesome Mountain. Photo looks WNW.

Looking S back at Becker Lake from a hill S of Albino Lake.

Albino Lake from the hill to the S. Lonesome Mountain at left side of photo.

Lupe happy in the Beartooth Mountains S of Albino Lake 7-12-13 — Happy Lupe in the Beartooth Mountains S of Albino Lake 7-12-13

Lupe on the hill S of Albino Lake. Photo looks N. — Lupe on the hill S of Albino Lake. From here Lupe went around the left (W) side of the lake and climbed over the ridge shown on the far side of the lake at the low point seen at left center. Photo looks N.

At the SE end of Albino Lake, Lupe crossed over the outlet stream (easy rock hopping) to the W. Lupe and SPHP went up on a hill just S of Albino Lake for a look back towards Becker Lake. Then Lupe followed the trail NW above the W shore of Albino Lake up to the next big saddle ridge ahead. From the saddle was Lupe’s first view of Jasper Lake. The area around Jasper Lake was completely devoid of forest. Rock, heather, scattered patches of snow and sky was all there was. Gorgeous high mountain terrain was everywhere.

Jasper Lake in the Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks N.

The NW end of Golden Lake visible from the ridge S of Jasper Lake. Photo looks WSW. — The NE end of Golden Lake visible from the ridge S of Jasper Lake. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe and SPHP were not alone, however. Soon after reaching the saddle with a view of Jasper Lake, a troop of backpackers came traipsing up the trail from the NW. Lupe ran over to greet them, but they soon passed on by. The rest of the afternoon, Lupe and SPHP saw no one. After a break enjoying the view of Jasper Lake, Lupe and SPHP continued NW on the trail, which went down to the outlet stream from Jasper Lake near the SW corner of the lake. This stream had a lot of flow in it.

Lupe greeted these backpackers, some of the very few people Lupe saw this day. Golden Lake in background.

SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet, so Lupe and SPHP followed the S shore of the stream down all the way to Golden Lake, which wasn’t far off to the WSW. There was no place to cross and stay dry anywhere along the way. There was nothing to be done, except take the plunge. SPHP and Lupe forded the stream at the delta where it enters Golden Lake. Now on the N side of the stream, Lupe and SPHP headed back up towards the W shore of Jasper Lake. Nearing the lake again, Lupe turned N heading for a ridge.

Lupe near Golden Lake. Photo looks SW. Lonesome Mountain is on the left.

SPHP's boots got soaked crossing this stream where it enters Golden Lake. Lonesome Mountain on left. Photo looks SW. — SPHP’s boots got soaked crossing this stream where it enters Golden Lake. Lonesome Mountain on left. Photo looks SW.

Lupe and SPHP gained the top of the ridge NNW of Jasper Lake at a broad shallow saddle. The saddle area and beyond consisted of rolling terrain strewn with a mix of boulder fields, grassy areas and small shallow lakes. Crossing this ridge, Lupe reached her highest elevation of the day at somewhere between 10,360 and 10,400 feet. Beyond the ridge was Two Bits Lake. Lupe spotted a snow drift and ran down to cool off in it not far from the lake.

Looking back at Lonesome Mountain from the N on the way to the ridge NNW of Jasper Lake.

Looking back to the SE at Jasper Lake. The ridge Lupe came over from Albino Lake is on the right side of the photo.

Largest of the unnamed lakes in the saddle area NNW of Jasper Lake.

Lupe on her snowbank near Two Bits Lake. Photo looks NNW.

Just S of Two Bits Lake, Lupe and SPHP stopped for a break. Lupe chowed down on some Taste of the Wild. SPHP celebrated success with a Coke. After the break, Lupe and SPHP explored among the rocks above the S shore of Two Bits Lake.

Consulting the topo maps, SPHP really wanted to climb another ridge NW of Two Bits Lake and then turn N to find High Pass with the ultimate goal of reaching Sky Pilot Lake. However, the day was wearing on and it was a long way back to the G6. It was too late in the day to try it. If Lupe was ever going to reach Sky Pilot Lake, she would have to come back to Island Lake and start all over again earlier in the day.

Lupe takes a break SSE of Two Bits Lake.

After suitable time spent admiring pretty Two Bits Lake, Lupe and SPHP followed a rock ridge SW from the lake. Just to the NW was the outlet stream from Two Bits Lake running down to Triskele Lake. When Lupe reached Triskele Lake it was time to turn back. Lupe headed back up to the saddle area on the ridge NNW of Jasper Lake. The view of Lonesome Mountain and Jasper Lake was just awesome. Lupe saw a bald eagle fly over Jasper Lake heading E.

SPHP thought about climbing this ridge to look for High Pass and Sky Pilot Lake, but it was too late in the day to be advisable. Photo looks NW and shows SW corner of Two Bits Lake.

Looking SW down the stream from Two Bits Lake on its way to Triskele Lake.

Triskele Lake in the Beartooth Mountains from the NE.

SPHP's favorite photo of Lupe and Lonesome Mountain. Photo was taken looking S from NNW of Jasper Lake. Lonesome Mountain is much more impressive from this angle than from along the trail to the E or S. — SPHP’s favorite photo of Lupe and Lonesome Mountain. Photo was taken looking S from NNW of Jasper Lake. Lonesome Mountain is much more impressive from this angle than from along the trail to the E or S of the mountain. A portion of Golden Lake is seen at center right.

SPHP wanted to go around the E side of Jasper Lake to avoid having to ford the big outlet stream again. On the NE side of Jasper Lake, Lupe found a big feather near a little stream. Perhaps it was from the bald eagle? That was pretty cool! There were lots of streams coming into Jasper Lake from the E, but since they were smaller, SPHP managed to stay mostly dry getting across them. Eventually Lupe and SPHP reached the ridge to the S of Jasper Lake and found the trail again.

The eagle feather is seen just to the left of Lupe. Photo taken NE of Jasper Lake.

Lonesome Mountain across Jasper Lake from near the eagle feather. — Lonesome Mountain across Jasper Lake from “Eagle Feather Creek”.

Jasper Lake & Lonesome Mountain, 7-12-13

The rest of the evening was spent retracing the trail back to the G6. Lupe and SPHP had seen very few people all day, but on the way back SPHP did stop to talk to a fisherman on the W side of Albino Lake. He was catching mostly 8-12″ cutthroat trout, but said he had caught a couple of 18-20″ cutthroats up at Golden and Jasper Lakes. The fisherman was from Pennsylvania. He claimed to have seen a white wolf.

Lupe reached the G6 again at 11:28 PM. Lupe had been sniffing and exploring for 13.5 glorious hours! By now, though, both Lupe and SPHP were about totally played out. The weary dingo hopped into the G6 and curled up for a snooze. SPHP drove back to the campsite at the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River. Arriving well after midnight, SPHP was just too tired to set things up in the tent. SPHP covered Lupe with a blanket. Another night was spent in the G6. The next morning, a bleary-eyed dingo was still curled up, happily snuggled in the blanket.

Carolina Dog catches 40 winks. More adventuring lies ahead!

Although Lupe did not get as far as Sky Pilot Lake this time, 3 days later she returned and did find it. Click on this Sky Pilot Lake link to see her post on that adventure!

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Castle Mountain, the Carbon County Montana High Point with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore – Part 1: Island Lake to Two Bits Lake (8-7-20)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.