Marys Peak, Coast Range, the Devils Punchbowl & Beverly Beach, Oregon (8-30-21 & 8-31-21)

Days 24, 25, and Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-29-21, USFS Road No. 380 near a pond E of the Diamond Peak trailhead – Nothing happening today except rest and recuperation!  Not after the Carolina Dog’s late return from Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) yesterday.  Lupe was content snoozing or gazing out the RAV4’s windows.  Only when a squirrel or chipmunk appeared, did she leap out to bark at it a few times before returning to her comfy perch on a pile of blankets.

Sunny and hot.  SPHP interrupted work on the trip journal to move the RAV4 to a shadier spot, then draped blankets over the windows.  At 10:30 AM, people came by looking for the Diamond Peak trailhead.  After that, pickups and ATV’s roared by, raising dust at long intervals.

8-30-21, 6:33 AM, 39ºF, same spot – Morning mist was drifting over the pond.  Light out, but the sun wasn’t up yet.  Directly overhead, a bright white half moon hung in a bone white sky.  Smoky!

Guess that settles it, Loop!  We’re done with the Cascade Range, at least for the time being.  Trip journal’s caught up, so bid farewell to our little pond.  We’re heading out!

Are we going to the Oregon coast, SPHP?

Yeah.  If we can’t find blue skies there, I don’t know what we’ll do.

Heading NW on Hwy 58 after the scenic drive back to Oakridge, SPHP was surprised to see that the smoke already wasn’t as bad here.  In fact, skies were gloomy.  Looked like a storm was coming in!  Drizzled for a few miles, but didn’t amount to much.  Too bad, a real soaker would have done poor, parched Oregon a world of good.

NW of Junction City, during an exceptionally windy drive through deep forests to Alsea, blue skies and puffy white clouds appeared.  A bit hazy, whether due to smoke or humidity it was hard to say, but not bad at all.

Hey, looks like you’re in luck, sweet puppy!  Marys Peak (4,097 ft.) isn’t too far N of Alsea, want to try it?

I will, if you will, SPHP!  Are you sufficiently recovered from Diamond Peak?

Oh, yeah!  Marys Peak shouldn’t be that hard.  It’s got some great stats, too!  3,357 feet of prominence, plus 48.57 miles of isolation, so its a major peak of the Oregon Coast Range.

8 miles N of Alsea at Alsea Summit, Hwy 34’s high point, SPHP turned L onto the road to Marys Peak.  6 winding, paved miles led to a sign.

East Ridge Connor’s Camp.  Think that’s what we want, Loop!

By the East Ridge Conner’s Camp sign. R turn directly ahead!

8-30-21, 12:28 PM, 56ºF, East Ridge Conner’s Camp – A R turn led straight to a roomy paved parking lot.  Several picnic tables were scattered over the dry grass beyond surrounding boulders.  An outhouse and trailhead display completed amenities present.  Within minutes, SPHP was ready.  Loopster was on her way.

East Ridge Conner’s Camp parking lot. Photo looks ESE.
About to set out on East Ridge Trail No. 1324.

East Ridge Trail No. 1324 started out as a smooth, flat path heading NW through a leafy wonderland.  Several noisy birds were creating quite a ruckus up in the treetops as Lupe set out, but she couldn’t see them.  The Carolina Dog had barely gotten started when the trail rose slightly to cross USFS Road No. 2005.

The leafy wonderland near the start of East Ridge Trail No. 1324. Photo looks NW.
Crossing USFS Road No. 2005. Photo looks NW.

After crossing the road, the trail briefly turned WNW before beginning a mile long trek N along Marys Peak’s E slope.  Most of the time, Loopster gradually gained elevation, although there were both somewhat steeper and flat stretches, too.  Tall, branchless tree trunks soared above bushy undergrowth.  The forest grew quiet as the noisy birds were left behind.

Past USFS Road No. 2005.  
Climbing gradually among the tall trunks. Photo looks N.

A bench at a junction marked the end of Lupe’s trek N.  Tie Trail No. 1313 continued NW from here, destined to link up with North Ridge Trail No. 1350, but that was the long way around.  Much quicker to stick with East Ridge Trail No. 1324, which made a sharp turn SW.  After a short break at the bench, Loop made the turn.

Bench at the junction of Tie Trail No. 1313 & East Ridge Trail No. 1324. Photo looks N.

A series of long switchbacks snaked up Marys Peak’s E, then NE, slopes.  A bit rocky in a few places, but only for short stretches, and the trail was never steep.  No views at all other than the tall trunk forest.  A jungley profusion of ferns, bushes, and assorted large-leafed plants covering the forest floor gradually diminished as Lupe gained elevation.

Going up the East Ridge Trail No. 1324 switchbacks.
The rockiest stretch. Nothing to it!
Up where there’s less undergrowth.

800 feet above where she’d left the bench, Lupe reached another trail junction.  The forest was more open here, making it possible to see part of Mary Peak’s N ridge not that much higher toward the NW.  East Ridge Trail No. 1324 continued that way to the unseen North Ridge trailhead, where it would end.

Instead, the American Dingo turned SSE on Summit Loop Trail No. 1388, which kept climbing as it traversed the upper E slopes of HP3942.  When No. 1388 began curving SW, the trail broke out of the forest.  Suddenly, Lupe was on a grassy hillside.

Summit Loop Trail No. 1388, SE slope of HP3942. Photo looks SW.

Once out in the open, Looper didn’t have much farther to go to reach a grassy saddle between HP3942 and the Marys Peak summit, which was still hidden by forest.  The trail crossed a gravel road that appeared likely to head the rest of the way up the mountain.

Saddle between Marys Peak’s summit (not pictured) and HP3942 (R). Photo looks NE.

Such a beautiful day!  A bit hazy, but blue skies and cotton candy clouds overhead!  The sunny gravel road was actually the other half of Summit Loop Trail No. 1388.  Ahead, the single track re-entered a forest.

Shady trail or sunny road, any preference, Looper?

It’s summer, and I’m wearing a fur coat, SPHP.  Take a wild guess!

A mental giant like SPHP easily figured this one out.

About to head back into the forest. Photo looks WSW.

Loopster had barely reached the shade, when SPHP paused to study a map posted along the trail.  Several minutes went by.

The inscrutable Meadow Edge Trail posted map.

Must be quite the map, SPHP!  What’s so fascinating about it?  Aren’t we already practically to the top of the mountain?

What’s so fascinating, Loop, is that this map doesn’t make a lick of sense.  The legend says “You are here”, but there’s no star marking our position.  Doesn’t help that the whole thing is upside down.

Upside down!  What do you mean by that, SPHP?

N is down, and S is up.  Completely opposite the traditional arrangement.

I’ve got it!  Stand on your head, SPHP.  It will all make sense then!

Yeah, might work, if the map was posted at boot level.  How am I going to see it with my head on the ground?  Besides, I’d look ridiculous!

Never stopped you before, SPHP.  Anyway, we’re almost there, keep going!

Sensible advice!  Lupe led the way.

Continuing through the forest. Photo looks W.

Did learn one thing from that map, Loop.

What was that, SPHP?

The map shows an old growth Noble fir grove somewhere around here.  Apparently, Meadow Edge Trail No. 1325 goes around it.  Maybe we’ve been traveling through forests of younger specimens?

Perhaps, SPHP.  Couldn’t tell you.  We American Dingos aren’t really tree experts.  What I can say, is that there aren’t enough squirrels in these forests.  Haven’t seen a single one!

It wasn’t far at all to a fork.  Summit Loop Trail No. 1388 veered L, while Meadow Edge Trail No. 1325 angled R.  Sticking with No. 1388, Loopster followed it W.  Gaining elevation, the trail began curving S.  Soon Lupe was out of the forest again.  Marys Peak’s summit was just up another grassy slope.

At the fork where Summit Loop Trail No. 1388 (L) and Meadow Edge Trail No. 1325 (R) part ways. Photo looks W.  
Almost there! Photo looks SSW.

8-30-21, 2:52 PM, 58ºF, Marys Peak (4,097 ft.) – The true summit of the highest peak of the Coast Range in Oregon was inaccessible behind a chain link fence protecting antennas, several sheds, and two giant sets of monkey bars.  Happily, plenty of grassy hilltop only marginally lower was easily accessible just outside the fence.

Although the air was breezy and pleasant, Lupe must have felt warm.  Chain link fences aren’t particularly great sunshades, but the Carolina Dog did the best she could, plopping herself down in the shade of a large supporting pole by a closed gate.  A lone picnic table nearby might have offered better protection, but was occupied.

Marys Peak summit. Photo looks SW.
Might wind up with a striped tan here!

The summit region was roughly 300 feet long E/W, and at least half that wide N/S.  A gravel road spiraled up along the N side of the fence from out of the SW, ending at the picnic table.  No doubt the same road that was part of Summit Loop Trail No. 1388.

After a short break by the fence, Lupe followed the road W, abandoning it once past the fence to take up a position on a grassy slope near the SW corner where the views were best.

The giant monkey bars toward the SW end of the summit region opposite of where Lupe had come up. Photo looks NE.

After congratulating Loopster on her successful ascent of Marys Peak, a chocolate coconut bar was sacrificed to commemorate the occasion.  For a while, Loop and SPHP sat admiring Old Blue Mountain (3,280 ft.) due S, and Grass Mountain (3,603 ft.), which was higher, but farther SW.

On the grassy slope SW of the fence. Old Blue Mountain (L), Grass Mountain (R). Photo looks SSW.
Grass Mountain (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto range.

Despite the haziness, staring toward the far W horizon, SPHP sometimes thought the Pacific Ocean was visible, but was never convinced whether that was actually the case, or mere illusion.  What was certain, was that Lupe did have a clear view of Mary Peak’s W Ridge (3,640 ft.).

Marys Peak’s W Ridge (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.

After enjoying the views to the S and W, Looper continued her summit tour going counter-clockwise around the fence.  Didn’t take long to get back to the NE corner where she’d started out.  The picnic table and the shade it provided were now free, but with only dirt beneath it, Loopster decided she’d rather snooze on the soft grass taking advantage of SPHP’s shadow, while getting petted and having her soft ears stroked.

Of course, there were views from here, too.  The one to the N along the Coast Range was particularly nice.  Partially clear-cut lower hills led to high ridges in the distance, some of which might not have been much lower than Marys Peak.

Back at the NE end after circumnavigating the fence. Photo looks SW.
Looking N from the picnic table.

If it had been truly clear, there might have been a distant view of grand peaks of the Cascade Range beyond the broad, flat Willamette Valley, but Loop didn’t get to enjoy that treat.  Smoke hid the entire range.

Willamette Valley from Marys Peak. Ordinarily, the Cascade Range should have been visible on the horizon, but wasn’t today. Photo looks SE.

Lupe’s snooze on the soft, dry grass was pleasant, but short.

Awake already, Looper?

Are we soup yet, SPHP?

Not quite.  Still have a little of your summit hour remaining.

Do we have time enough to go around the fence again for another look, SPHP?

Easily.  Want to do that?  Should be fun!

Ambling along, taking all the lovely views in again, Loopster enjoyed a second leisurely spin counter-clockwise around the fence, arriving back at the NE corner again with only a few minutes of summit hour left.

Well, I think we’ve done it, Looper.  Might as well head down.

A final look N before departing.
Ready to hit the trail again. Photo looks E.
A final look at the W ridge (L) as summit hour expires. Photo looks WNW.

8-30-21, 4:55 PM, 55ºF, East Ridge Conner’s Camp

Marys Peak was fun, SPHP!  Sort of nice not to have to do a killer peak on every single outing, yet Marys is the highest peak of the entire Coast Range in Oregon, right?

That’s right, Loop!  Want some chicken?

No, not yet.  I’d rather lay down in the RAV4.

Suit yourself, Looper!  Let me know if you change your mind.  I’ll open the door for you as soon as I have a couple pieces of chicken and polish off these sweet rolls.  A few minutes, and we’ll be on our way.

Take your time, SPHP.  I’m good!

Oh, can’t take too much time, Loop!  More to do today!

There is?  We aren’t done?  What’s next, another mountain?

Don’t worry, you’re going to love it, Loop!  We’ve got a beautiful evening drive ahead of us followed by a surprise.

What kind of a surprise, SPHP?

A good one!  You’ll see!

8-30-21, 7:16 PM, Devils Punchbowl, Oregon Coast – Not a moment too soon!  Coming into Newport on Hwy 20, the sun’s reflection off the Pacific Ocean had nearly blinded SPHP, but Lupe had arrived with enough daylight to spare for a romp along the beach.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP!  The Devils Punchbowl!  How long has it been since we’ve been here?

9 years, Loop.  You were only 20 months old when we were last here with Lanis on your first ever Dingo Vacation.

Gazing beyond the Devils Punchbowl out over the eternally restless waves of the Pacific Ocean, that was a sobering thought.  So exquisitely beautiful here, yet it had taken all these years to return.  So many other adventures and Dingo Vacations since then!

Devils Punchbowl (R). Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Looper!  Let’s go down to the beach!

A block back inland, a long set of wooden stairs led down to the same beach where Lupe had waded in the ocean for the first time ever.  It had been a great time, being here with Lanis, playing with other dogs, racing along the beach making seagulls fly, and sniffing along the edge of the cold, salty waves while listening to the roar of the ocean.

The beach had been, well, not crowded, but busy back then.  Not now.  Lupe stood on the wet sand all alone.  Why?  Covid-19?  Who knew?

Pacific Ocean, just S of the Devils Punchbowl. Photo looks W.

And who cares?  We’ve got the whole place to ourselves.  How awesome is that, SPHP?  Time for a sunset stroll!

Sounds splendid, Loopster!  Let’s follow the ocean S.  C’mon, I’ll race ya!

The Carolina Dog didn’t play fair!  Excited by the sights and sounds of the ocean, the were-puppy attacked SPHP multiple times, then streaked away, showing off how fast she could run, seagulls scattering before her.

It was a grand time!  Lupe went as far S as a little stream where 2 people were trying to fly kites in an inadequate breeze.  After watching their amusing trials and tribulations for a few minutes, it was back N on the cold, wet sand along the water’s edge as a wonderful day drew to a close.

The Pacific Ocean! Time for a sunset stroll along the beach! Photo looks S.
Water’s edge, near sunset.
Day’s end.

Only one bad thing, Loop!

What’s that, SPHP?

Mo’s World Famous Clam Chowder is closed up by the Devils Punchbowl.

Lanis will sure be sorry to hear that, SPHP!  He loved that place!  Best clam chowder in the world!

Yeah, and now we aren’t going to get any tonight, either, sweet puppy!  And I was so looking forward to it!

8-31-21, 9:01 AM, 67ºF, Devils Punchbowl –  A gorgeous day!  Trip journal caught up again, and the early morning chill was pretty much over and done with.

Can’t leave the Devils Punchbowl without another stroll along the beach, Loop!

Great minds think alike, SPHP!

Once again, Lupe trotted down the long wooden stairs to the beach.  Still hardly anyone around, but the mood was different.  The day was young and bright as the Carolina Dog ventured S.  SPHP walked barepaw in the water as much as possible, until it got too cold, then warmed up on the sand.  Rinse and repeat!  Lupe liked the wet sand right along the water’s edge best, but waded in after SPHP plenty of times.

Back on the beach just S of the Devils Punchbowl. Photo looks W.
Miss Wet Paws!

Got breezy.  Waves rolled in.  The ocean surged and roared.  Love it!

Heading S.
On ripple-marked sand. Otter Rock (Center) in the ocean. Photo looks SW.

The American Dingo went farther this time, all the way to Spencer Creek at the 2 mile mark and beyond.

Think we’ve made it to Beverly Beach, Loop.  Hate to turn around, but maybe this is far enough?  Nothing like being along the ocean, is there?

A rare treat for us, SPHP!  Let’s take it slow, if we’re going back.

Hwy 101 bridge over Spencer Creek from Beverly Beach. Photo looks E.
Gull Rock. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Heading back to the Devils Punchbowl. Photo looks N.

Even a leisurely return went by too fast.  Rather than race back up the wooden steps, the Carolina Dog spent a little while sniffing around the rock formations S of the Devils Punchbowl.

Near a little sea cave (Center).
A closer look.
Checking out the rocky coast.

8-31-21, 11:16 AM, Devils Punchbowl – A chain link fence prevented Lupe from seeing the Devils Punchbowl.  SPHP lifted the American Dingo up so she could watch waves enter the collapsed sea cave before draining back into the ocean.  The scene was mesmerizing, but SPHP couldn’t let Lupe gaze too long, because a growing throng of people were waiting their turn at the best viewpoints.

Devils Punchbowl. Gull Rock (R of Center) beyond. Photo looks NW.

Sure is beautiful, SPHP!  Wonder what’s down there?  Looks like a great place for buried treasure!

Might be right, Loop.  Both beautiful and dangerous down there!  Certain amount of natural treasure protection present.  High tide would likely put an end to anyone foolish enough to get overly absorbed in a Devils Punchbowl treasure hunt.

Devils Punchbowl. Another angle. Photo looks SW.

Well, it was time.  Someone else’s turn.  Marys Peak, Lupe’s return to the Devils Punchbowl after all these years, the long strolls along the Pacific Ocean at sunset yesterday evening, and as far S as Beverly Beach this morning, had been great fun.

Getting to be lunch time, and after that, on to new adventures!  9 years after leaving this wonderful place with Lanis in his Honda Element, the Carolina Dog trotted with SPHP back to her still new RAV4.

Ready, Loop?

She was.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Pacific Ocean, S of the Devils Punchbowl, Oregon Coast 8-31-21

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

The Devils Punchbowl, Beverly Beach & Moolack Beach, Oregon Coast (8-25-12 & 8-26-12)

Marys Peak, Siuslaw National Forest

Marys Peak Trail System Map

Devils Punchbowl State Natural Area

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