Part 2 of Day 11 & Part 1 of Day 12 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-9-22, 12:15 PM – Upon reaching the E shoulder of Moonlit Mountain (5,951 ft.) after having visited all 3 of its westernmost high points, Lupe turned S toward her next objective, Kispiox Mountain (6,877 ft.). The first part of this journey was a gradual descent on grass and small scree toward a 1720+ meter hill along the broad ridge leading to Kispiox’s much sharper and steeper NE ridge.
Progress was rapid on this easy terrain. The Carolina Dog soon made it down to the saddle leading to the 1720+ meter hill. Climbing to the top of the hill wasn’t necessary. Loop went only partway up before skirting around the upper W side, which turned out to be a grassier and steeper traverse than expected, but presented no real problem.
Lupe easily circled clear around to the SSE side of the 1720+ meter hill before descending S to the enormous 1600+ meter saddle at the base of Kispiox Mountain’s NE ridge. This grassy saddle harbored a shallow pond where Loop helped herself to a drink.
Well, so much for the super easy part of our little jaunt up Kispiox Mountain, Loop! Hope you enjoyed it.
I knew it was too good to last, SPHP! Can’t go downhill forever, if you want to climb a mountain. Which way from here?
John Stolk says we have to get over to the NW ridge. Can’t take this NE ridge in front of us, Looper, because there’s some kind of an impassable tower along it way up near the summit.
Sounds like some valuable beta Mr. Stolk earned the hard way, SPHP.
Got that right, Loop. His trip report confirms it.
So we head for that big, flat, green area over at the base of the NW ridge, SPHP?
Seems to be the obvious choice, Loopster. Onward! Puppy ho!
The green area Looper needed to get to was at about the same elevation as the 1600+ meter saddle where she was now, but to get over there the American Dingo was going to have to traverse an intervening rumpled region that sloped down toward the deep valley N of Kispiox Mountain.
In practice, this meant sustaining some initial elevation loss. Leaving the W side of the 1600+ meter saddle, Lupe descended a rocky slope, aiming between 2 long snowbanks. Once down to better terrain, Loop angled SW, gradually regaining the elevation she’d just lost.
Turning W after regaining sufficient elevation, Lupe crossed a series of rocky moraines and gullies, some of which were full of snow. This trek wasn’t particularly difficult, but involved a lot of rock, fortunately nearly all of modest size, plus a fair number of minor ups and downs.
As Lupe reached the lower NE side of the NW ridge, SPHP started up, but didn’t get far before deciding the rocky slope was so steep and long that trying this shortcut to the ridgeline was probably not worth the effort.
Having gained more than enough elevation now, Lupe traversed a fairly big snowfield before making her way to the flat, green area originally targeted at the base of the NW ridge.
8-9-22, 2:29 PM, flat, green area at the base of the NW ridge –
So far, so good, Loop! Let’s take a break.
The Carolina Dog was more than willing. She sniffed aimlessly about, or laid on the soft grass, while SPHP pondered the NW ridge.
Looks like we’re in for it now, doesn’t it, SPHP? Big climb ahead!
Yeah, the way I read Stolk, he probably went right on up to the ridgeline from here. Supposed to be some goat paths up there.
That’s what we should do then, too! Right, SPHP? Listen to the voice of experience. Besides, I like goats!
Hah! You’re more of a mountain goat yourself than I am, Loop. Actually, looks to me like we might be able to stay lower for a while on the W side of the ridge, and enjoy an easy trek simply following the vegetation higher. Appears we could gain a fair amount of elevation before having to head up to the ridgeline. Stolk mentions having to downclimb at one point. Would be nice if we could skip that part!
I don’t know, SPHP. Are you sure you want to improvise when you’ve got a trip report that’s been good so far? Any reason to doubt John Stolk?
No, not at all. He’s got vast experience, Loop. Maybe I’m just feeling lazy?
Break time was soon over. Instead of heading for the ridgeline, SPHP struck out following the grass along the lower W side of the ridge.
Worked great, at first! A green ramp made for easy travel. Heading S, Lupe steadily gained elevation. When the grassy lane finally gave out, she followed goat paths along increasingly steep scree slopes to a series of small patches of vegetation on flatter ground supported by bedrock.
Considerable progress had been made, but a lot more was required. Gazing E up the slope leading to the ridgeline, which was out of sight many hundreds of feet higher, that slope was incredibly steep now.
Told ya, SPHP! I suppose you expect us to climb clear up to the ridgeline from here?
Think we have to, Looper. Only gets worse ahead.
Simply grand! You first then, SPHP! Show me how it’s done!
OK, but don’t stay directly below me, Loop. Have a feeling some of these rocks are going to come hurtling down the mountain.
Try not to do that yourself, SPHP!
SPHP hoped the slope wasn’t that steep, but starting up, support wasn’t good at all. Everything wanted to slide. This side of the NW ridge was just a giant collection of loose scree.
Tough going! Progress was dreadfully slow. Even when outcroppings of bedrock could be reached, the rock was rotten, often crumbling away. Climbing the slope was exhausting work, but there was no choice. Had to keep going! This was the American Dingo’s last and best chance. If Lupe didn’t get to the top of Kispiox Mountain today, she never would.
Showing no enthusiasm at all for this ordeal, the Carolina Dog played her stalking game, following SPHP only when separation anxiety took over. Even Lupe sent showers of rock careening down the slope.
Between countless pauses to gasp for air, progress actually was being made bit by bit. After what seemed like a dreadfully long way, the slope wasn’t quite as steep. Dark rock formations that couldn’t be too far from the ridgeline appeared above. Finally reaching the first of them, SPHP was shocked to realize that Lupe was already on the spine of the NW ridge! This was it! Cliffs were immediately to the E.
Loopster had reached the ridgeline just below a small rise to the S. Not liking the looks of it, after sitting down for a few minutes to recuperate from the ghastly climb, SPHP got up to have a look at what lay beyond.
Oh, terrific! Exactly what I was afraid of, Loop!
What’s wrong now, SPHP?
We’ve reached the ridgeline right where John Stolk must have been forced to downclimb to get past some gnarliness.
Well, nothing to be done about it! While Lupe remained up on the rise enjoying spectacular views, SPHP started back down. Fortunately, only a minor downclimb was required to get past a spine of rock covered with dark lichens that ran partway down the W side of the ridge.
Looking ahead, more gnarliness appeared to exist along the ridgeline, dissuading SPHP from returning to it right away. Unfortunately, more dark spines of rock running steeply down the W slope were ahead, too. Getting past them was crucial to success. Carefully picking a way along the rocky slope, SPHP continued SSE.
Meanwhile, Lupe was doing her own route finding. Her whole attitude had changed completely after getting above the loose scree and reaching the firmer rock formations along the ridgeline.
Coming down off the initial rise to get past that first dark spine like SPHP had, the Carolina Dog was having a blast on a self-guided tour exploring the intricacies of all the nooks and crannies hidden among the rocks. While SPHP stayed low, Lupe returned to the ridgeline all by herself, and was often out of sight. Every now and then she reappeared way above.
The dark spines running down the W side of the ridge weren’t all that big, but stuck out enough to conceal what was ahead. Happily, none hid anything impassable. SPHP managed to get past several before finally getting a more distant view. Both Kispiox Mountain’s true summit and closer NW summit were in sight! They didn’t look all that much higher now – a few hundred feet, maybe a little more.
Better yet, if Lupe could get past the last of this gnarly region, success was guaranteed! The rest of the NW ridge was a slam dunk, much easier terrain. Loop came down from her lofty explorations to rejoin SPHP for the final effort to get over to it.
Pure joy! Both summits of Kispiox Mountain looming beyond her, Lupe made it to a gently sloping saddle of golden dirt and small scree along the NW ridge. Nothing worth mentioning left to stop her now!
Got it made, Loop! Kispiox Mountain, you’re first Canadian ultra! Can you believe it?
Onward, SPHP! We aren’t there yet!
Excitement mounted as Lupe drew even with, then above, the 2,000+ meter ridge extending W from Kispiox’s NW summit to Peak 6841, a cluster of 7 mighty peaks appearing beyond it.
Still a little way to go! The joyful trudge higher continued.
Suddenly Loopster was standing on Kispiox’s NW summit next to a pole with an attached box containing some sort of electronic equipment. All around, the views were incredible, but the only one the American Dingo was focused on was the beautifully rounded gentle saddle leading SE to Kispiox Mountain’s true summit.
5 minutes was all it took to get there.
8-9-22, 5:31 PM, 72ºF, Kispiox Mountain (6,877 ft.) – Some haziness due to distant wildfires, otherwise the sky was clear, a beautiful blue, the air nearly calm as Lupe reached the true summit. With a big smile on her face, the Carolina Dog stood next to a huge box sheathed in metal below, some other material and solar panels above, all anchored on a wooden platform near the E edge by 4 cables extending from each corner.
Can’t begin to tell you how proud I am of you, Loopster! 4 years ago to the day we only made it as far as Moonlit Mountain (5,951 ft.), but look at where we are now!
On Kispiox Mountain, a Canadian ultra! We should celebrate, SPHP! It’s a dream come true!
Absolutely, sweet puppy!
Shaking Lupe’s paw, SPHP produced not only a chocolate coconut bar, but beef jerky, too, a Dingo-approved combination worthy of any event.
Having displayed great energy during all but the slog up the stupidly steep scree slope on the way to the NW ridgeline, Lupe’s enthusiasm quickly faded. She was tired, and soon curled up for a much deserved rest, snapping occasionally at a few horseflies making a nuisance of themselves.
While Lupe relaxed, SPHP strolled about contemplating the fabulous views. Mostly lower peaks were in the distance to the N and E beyond the broad Kispiox and Skeena river valley, although there were higher peaks, too, some of which sported glaciers. Mount Tomlinson (8,041 ft.) was the only one SPHP could actually identify.
The most interesting views to the N were actually quite close by. Lupe peered down on Moonlit Mountain (5,951 ft.) only 2 miles away where she’d been earlier, and would have to return to. More than 900 feet lower, Moonlit Mountain looked like just a big green hill from here.
Kispiox Mountain’s NE ridge, golden in the late afternoon sun, was even closer. The “small” tower that had foiled John Stolk’s attempt along this route was in sight, a big rounded knob perched right on the ridgeline.
The territory SE was more mountainous. Peak 6477 was also only 2 miles away. SPHP could identify Hazelton Peak (6,300+ ft.) which was somewhat farther. Considerably higher peaks were in the distance.
The grandest views of all were S and W, where a parade of high peaks, often grouped in separate clusters, extended as far as the eye could see. Among them were the Seven Sisters, which Lupe had seen while still climbing Kispiox’s NW summit. Weeskinisht Peak (9,039 ft.) was the highest sister.
Conditions were near perfect. Many times Lupe gazed down on Moonlit Mountain, which for 4 long years had been her closest point of advance. Being here on Kispiox really was like an impossible dream come true.
Time flew. It was a long way back, yet Lupe lingered.
8-9-22, 6:52 PM, Kispiox Mountain (6,877 ft.) true summit –
Hate to say it, Looper.
I know, SPHP. We never want it to end, but it always does.
Just the nature of things, Loop. We better get going, though. Want to have plenty of daylight to get down that gnarly NW ridge.
The gorgeous early evening trek back to the NW summit was over all too soon. Still high on Kispiox Mountain, Lupe paused here for a final look. A few more minutes, and it would be good-bye to these splendid sights never to be seen again.
Onward! Puppy ho!
Having done it once before, the trek down Kispiox Mountain’s NW ridge was super fun. SPHP took a long time, though, exercising the caution the terrain merited. The views were awesome, the ridge itself spell-binding. Time and again, Lupe enjoyed calmly scanning the scene from the brink of disaster at precarious points along the way.
Once past the rise where Lupe had first reached the ridgeline, things got easier. This time SPHP had sense enough to skip the awful loose scree descent, and stuck with the ridgeline route recommended by John Stolk. Nearly all the way, Lupe had a visible path to follow.
Yeah, Stolk’s ridge route was way easier than Lupe’s ascent had been. Even so, the sun was behind the mountains by the time the Carolina Dog made it down to the flat grassy area at the base of the NW ridge. Light was fading as she headed E back through the rough, rocky gullies and moraines. This time she went below the big snowfield before climbing higher again.
It had been a long day, and it seemed to take forever to get back to the 1600+ meter saddle S of the 1720+ meter hill. Starting up the hill’s S slope, SPHP finally called a halt. Lupe had been pawing the back of SPHP’s legs, repeatedly begging for mercy through much of the moraine territory. Now that it was so dark that the tiny flashlight had to come out, it didn’t matter how long she wanted to rest before moving on, and the thick grass on the hillside provided some degree of comfort.
A journey of short spurts between frequent breaks eventually brought the American Dingo back to Moonlit Mountain’s upper E shoulder. Time to take on the last real remaining obstacle of the return, the steep decent of the 350 foot high slope leading down to Moonlit Mountain’s NE ridge. If Lupe could get down this slope in one piece, SPHP was confident she’d make it back to the RAV4.
Shining the flashlight over the edge, SPHP saw only cliffs and dangerous spines of rock dropping into an invisible void. Must be too high already. However, working slowly back to the SE along the edge, the flashlight never revealed the spot where the Carolina Dog could safely start down.
Can’t find the way, SPHP?
No! Sorry, it’s too dark, Loop. It’s got to be somewhere nearby. I’m 100% certain we’re in the right area, but don’t recognize the path.
What are we going to do then, SPHP?
We’ve got to stay here, Loopster. Don’t dare chance it in the dark.
A night out hadn’t been in the plan. Should have brought more warm clothes. Too late now. At least, it was a fairly warm night with no wind. Finding a small depression, Lupe and SPHP laid down, huddling together on a bit of spongy tundra. SPHP layered up, gloves and all, then pulled a light jacket over the American Dingo, all there was to spare.
Try to sleep, Loop. We’ll be here a while.
Moonlit Mountain! A romantic name, and fitting one, too. Lupe dozed, but as weary as SPHP was, sleep wouldn’t come. To the S, an almost full moon hovered above a black horizon, its pale, ghostly light outlining the shadow that was Kispiox Mountain, while bathing Moonlit Mountain in moonlight.
In eternal silence, stars glittered overhead. Somewhere many miles SE down in the Skeena River valley, a small cluster of lights was in view. Kispiox village? Seemed likely. 3 or 4 more isolated lights were strung out farther N. Only impenetrable darkness elsewhere. Motionless now, the night felt colder. SPHP hugged Lupe tight.
8-10-22, the wee hours, upper E shoulder of Moonlit Mountain – Waking from a fitful, dreamless sleep, SPHP shivered. Lupe was alert, quietly watching the moon slink past a gap in the mountains W of Kispiox. Soon it would be gone, the night even darker. Loop trembled a little as SPHP pulled her closer.
And so it went, every time SPHP opened an eye. Extraordinarily lucky the night was as mild as it was. Hours crept by.
8-10-22, predawn, upper E shoulder of Moonlit Mountain – At last, a hint of light on the NE horizon! SPHP’s teeth chattered. Took a long time this far N for the sun to climb the opposite side of the mountains. Watching the light slowly grow, SPHP finally lost patience.
Enough of this! How are you, Loop? Rested up enough to keep going?
Feeling much better, SPHP!
Fabulous! Let’s be on our way then. Light enough so I can see in color. We’ll warm up faster on the move. Not waiting for the sun any longer!
Helped not being nearly blind! The start of the path down the 350 foot high slope was easy to find now. By the time SPHP caught up with Lupe down at the bottom after a slow, careful descent, the sun was peeping over the mountains.
The rest was easy! A joyous, beautiful trek N along Moonlit Mountain’s 1600+ meter ridge, then down to the 80 foot wide swath of open ground where the insects were just starting to hum, and Lupe picked up the trail back through the forest again.
8-10-22, 8:12 AM, 62ºF – Moonlit Mountain and Kispiox Mountain! What an awesome adventure they had been! In the past now, though, as the Carolina Dog hopped back up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4, happily looking forward to a rest day riding in style. SPHP loaded the pack into the back of the RAV4, then straightened things out a bit, grabbing an Equate and a flavored sparkling water in the process.
Lupe got a bowl of Taste of the Wild, a Zuke’s Hip Action, and a vitamin, before SPHP fired up the RAV4. A low tire pressure warning light came on, but went out by itself during the 20 mile drive back to civilization.
Well, you finally got your Canadian ultra, Loop! Are you happy?
Ecstatic, SPHP! We’ll always remember Kispiox Mountain and our lonely moonlit night on Moonlit Mountain, won’t we?
I’ll say, Loop. For 4 long years, I’ve wondered if we would ever be back, and yesterday we were!
Dreams do come true, SPHP! Speaking of which, what’s next?
A long drive, Loopster, then another one of our most-prized objectives we’ve been hoping to get to for years, provided we can pull it off this time.
Sounds exciting, SPHP! Care to elaborate?
You’ll see soon enough, sweet puppy! Meanwhile let’s enjoy the ride.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
John Stolk’s Kispiox Mountain Trip Report (9-8-17)
Moonlit Mountain, Skeena Mountains, British Columbia, Canada (8-9-18)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
