Every year on the weekend before Memorial Day weekend in May, South Dakota holds an open house at all state parks to kick off the summer tourist season. Admission to the parks is free, although normal campground fees still apply. SPHP decided Lupe should take advantage of this chance to do some peakbagging of some of the higher peaks in the Custer State Park region without having to pay an entrance fee.
Lupe’s peakbagging efforts started at the Little Devils Tower trailhead along Hwy 87 (Needles Highway) less than a mile SE of Sylvan Lake (10:44 AM, 45°F). Lupe had four peakbagging goals – Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), Peak 6920, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), and Peak 6735. Only Little Devils Tower was actually in Custer State Park, but the others were all relatively close by. SPHP thought they could all be easily approached from this location.
Lupe and SPHP left the trailhead taking Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4. The trail entered the forest, soon crossed a small creek, and then started a gentle climb NE up a valley. As the trail gained elevation, it entered more open terrain. The forest had been virtually clear cut along in here due to heavy damage from pine bark beetles. Big granite rock formations were scattered along the sides of the valley.
Slowly the trail became steeper, eventually reaching the crest of a ridge about 0.75 mile from the trailhead. From the ridge, Lupe could see the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) close by to the E. A well marked spur trail went NNW to the summit of Little Devils Tower. Lupe and SPHP took the spur trail, which climbed a little bit and then followed a fairly level ridgeline.
After less than 0.25 mile, the spur trail lost a little elevation as it descended into a ravine coming up from the SW. The bottom of the ravine rose steeply to meet the spur trail, which turned N to climb straight up a badly eroding stretch of loose rocks. Fortunately, the climb up the loose rocks wasn’t a long one. It ended at a little pass between big granite rock formations.
From here on, the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower was a scramble on the granite. At the little pass, the trail turned sharply W (L) going up a narrow cleft in the rock. Beyond the cleft, things opened up a bit. Blue and white arrows painted on the granite marked the trail. The scramble wasn’t hard, and featured only minor exposure.
When Lupe and SPHP arrived up on top of Little Devils Tower, no one else was around. A steady stream of people and dogs could be heard on the way, though. Lupe’s solitude wasn’t going to last long.
The views were great up on Little Devils Tower! The summit area was fairly large and divided into a couple of big sections of uneven granite that were fun to explore. It was no place for unwatched small children, however. The summit area was nearly surrounded by cliffs. SPHP kept a close eye on Lupe as she sniffed around exploring. By moving around the summit a bit, it was possible to get a tremendous open view in any direction one wanted.
One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view to the N toward Harney Peak, was that Lupe was not going to be able to achieve one of her peakbagging objectives. Peak 6920 could be seen between Little Devils Tower and Harney Peak. It was a huge granite formation with near vertical sides in every direction. No way Lupe and SPHP could get up there without a helicopter.
Lupe and SPHP lingered for a while up on top of Little Devils Tower. A steady parade of people and dogs came and went. Even small children were making the climb, with a little assistance from parents and siblings. Although the solitude was broken, the wonderful views made it fun to stick around up on top for a while. SPHP chatted pleasantly with some of the other hikers. Lupe sniffed with the dogs, although she sometimes forgot her manners and growled.
Eventually, it was time to move on. Lupe returned to the main Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 via the spur trail. She followed it NE past a junction with Cathedral Spires Trail No. 4A, which she did not take. Trail No. 4 went around the W end of the Cathedral Spires, and then turned E on the N side of them.
Since SPHP had seen from Little Devils Tower that Lupe wasn’t going to be able to climb Peak 6920, her next peakbagging goal was Harney Peak (7,242 ft.). On the way to Harney, SPHP kept an eye out toward the SE searching for Peak 6735, to see what Lupe’s chances of climbing it might be like.
After skirting the N side of the Cathedral Spires for a little way, Trail No. 4 turned NE and then N. Trail No. 4 ended where it reached a junction with Norbeck Trail No. 3, which came up from the SE. Lupe continued N on Norbeck Trail No. 3. SPHP started seeing views of Peak 6735 off to the SE.
The views weren’t very encouraging. While Peak 6735 was only a little over a mile away, and looked like it should be climbable for Lupe, the intervening terrain looked very rugged with lots of elevation change and big rock formations. Even more daunting, the forest looked almost totally dead, ravaged by pine bark beetles. Getting to Peak 6735 would take a long time. Lupe was certain to encounter huge amounts of deadfall timber along the way.
Trail No. 4 led to Trail No. 9, a spur of which goes all the way up to the top of Harney Peak. Near the very end of the climb, a metal stairway spirals up a cleft in the granite. Lupe did not like the metal stairway, because she could see through it down to the ground below. SPHP had to carry the nervous Carolina Dog up the stairs.
At the top of Harney Peak, Lupe and SPHP stopped for only a few minutes at the lookout tower’s observation deck. As the highest point in the Black Hills and the state of South Dakota, Harney Peak is a popular destination. The lookout tower and observation deck were busy with people enjoying the fabulous 360° views, certainly among the best anywhere in the Black Hills.
To the W of Harney’s summit is a huge granite shoulder of the mountain. This shoulder is only slightly lower, offers essentially the same terrific views in most directions, and is less crowded. Lupe and SPHP retreated from the observation deck to the exit from the lookout tower’s basement, and headed over there. SPHP took in the views, while Lupe engaged in the fascinating sport of chipmunk watching.
Lupe and SPHP stayed out on the W shoulder of Harney Peak for half an hour. Lupe never tired of the chipmunks, but did divert her attention from them for a little while when SPHP brought chocolate oatmeal cookies out of the backpack.
When it was time to press on, Lupe and SPHP returned briefly to the lookout tower and observation deck. After a few photos from the top, Lupe started down the stone steps to the spiral metal stairway, where SPHP had to carry her again to the bottom of the metal stairs.
On Trail No. 9 going down Harney, Lupe came to a big rock platform extending a little to the SE from the trail. The platform provided a great view of Peak 6735. Although Peak 6735 was supposed to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, a good look at all the rugged terrain and deadfall timber Lupe would have to cross to get there made SPHP decide that maybe today wasn’t the day to tackle Peak 6735.
Lupe returned to the Little Devils Tower trailhead via the same route she had taken to Harney Peak – Trails No. 9, No. 3, and then No. 4. She was back at the G6 at 4:37 PM (59°F). Although Lupe hadn’t climbed Peak 6920 or Peak 6735, there was still time in the day to climb another high peak in the area. Lupe went on to climb Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) for a glorious finish to her day in the hills – but that’s another post!
Links:
Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
