East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Deep Lake to the Summit (7-19-20)

Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-19-20, 8:52 AM – Lupe and SPHP had both sleep hard.  Feeling better, and no heavy pack today!  The Carolina Dog stood poised atop the flat rock outcropping 15 feet E of her tiny house.  2.5 miles to the SE, the sharp prow of East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) and its catastrophic cliffs soared into the cloudless blue above and beyond Clear Lake and the massive shadowed stone wall of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.).

2,600 feet of elevation gain to go.

C’mon, Looper, we’re late!  Let’s hit it!  Puppy, ho!

East Temple Peak (Center), Haystack Mountain (L), and Clear Lake (foreground). Photo looks SE.

Angling ESE down a forested slope, Lupe soon picked up Little Sandy trail No. 98.  The trail went through a meadow before entering another stretch of forest still shadowed by Haystack Mountain.  Loop caught only tree-broken glimpses of the E end of Clear Lake as the trail swung S and began to climb.

The American Dingo hadn’t gotten too far S of Clear Lake, when she came to an interesting and beautiful region.  A crystal clear stream swept over large areas of exposed bedrock, and sometimes ran in secret courses beneath huge slabs of granite.  A series of small waterfalls poured into rippling pools where every rock on the bottom stood out, magnified in watery relief.

Wow! Doesn’t this look spiffy! Photo looks S.
Bunion Mountain (11,905 ft.) (L), War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) (Center), and Haystack Mountain (R). Photo looks NW back toward Clear Lake.

The amazing region went on and on!  No sign of any official trail here, but so what?  That didn’t matter in the least.  Traveling S up the bedrock, sometimes on this side of the splendid stream, and sometimes on the other, was fun and incredibly scenic.  Wherever enough soil existed to support them, Looper did have to manuever around or through clumps of bushes and stands of trees, but these obstacles only slowed progress temporarily.

Following the stream higher. Haystack Mountain (L). Photo looks SE.

The summit of Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) appeared ahead.  15 minutes later, Lupe was thrilled when she looked back and saw the familiar enormous stretched-gumdrop cone of iconic Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.), and jagged knife-edge ridge of Wolf’s Head (12,160 ft.), both part of the Wind River range’s famous Cirque of the Towers.

That’s the top of Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) (Center) up ahead! Photo looks S.
And there’s Pingora Peak (Center) way over by the Cirque of the Towers! Photo looks NW.
War Bonnet Peak ( far L), Wolf’s Head (L), Bollinger Peak (L of Center) and Pingora Peak (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

More and more of both East Temple Peak and Temple Peak kept coming into view.  Eventually Loopster was high enough to see Peak 11390, a sort of Mini-Pingora Peak which appeared sandwiched between them.  In reality, Mini-Pingora was actually a high point along a ridge of solid rock extending NNW from East Temple Peak.

One waterfall after another plunged into sparkling pools.  The stream flowed over such huge areas of worn bedrock that it spread out until it wasn’t even 0.50 inch deep.  Lupe finally came to a spot where a ledge of rock 6 to 8 foot high sat above a 100 foot wide stream less than 0.25 inch deep.

East Temple Peak (L) and Temple Peak (Center) with Mini-Pingora between them. Photo looks S.
The stream spreads out. Temple Peak (Center). Photo looks S.
Wildflowers growing in a spot with some soil.
Easiest 100 foot wide stream ford ever!

After finding a way up the ledge, Lupe didn’t have much further to go to get to Deep Lake.  Clear Lake had certainly been beautiful, but Deep Lake made a much deeper impression.

On the far shore, flanked by East Temple’s smooth towering cliff wall on the L, and Temple Peak’s jagged precipices on the R, Mini-Pingora ruled over Deep Lake like an enthroned mountain God.  Below Mini-P’s granite stare, the sacred waters of Deep Lake filled the closely guarded valley to the point where the outlet stream overflowed a plain of bedrock strewn with large boulders at the N end, where the American Dingo now stood.

Shangri-la, SPHP!

Holy moley, Looper!  The old boy was right yesterday!  I should have drug everything up here last night, exhausted or not.  Huge mistake!  We could have been here all this time.

Why haven’t we ever come here before?

I had no idea.  Never heard anyone talk about this secret spot.

Deep Lake. Mini-P (Center), East Temple Peak (L), Temple Peak (R). Photo looks S.
East Temple Peak (Center) from Deep Lake. Mini-P (R) and Steeple Peak (12,040 ft.) (L). Photo looks SE.

Nearly 11:00 AM.  Sadly, with so much farther to go, Lupe couldn’t linger long at Deep Lake.  A short stay enjoying the magnificent scene from the area near the outlet stream, and she was on her way again.  Exploring SW beyond the exposed bedrock, the Carolina Dog rediscovered the trail, which headed S traversing the bush-covered slope W of the lake.  Profusions of wildflowers filled openings among the bushes.

W of Deep Lake. The trail eventually curves R of Mini-Pingora (Center) toward Temple Peak (R). Photo looks SSE.
Among the Indian paintbrush near Deep Lake. Steeple Peak (L), East Temple Peak (Center) and Mini-Pingora (R). Photo looks SE.

Approaching the S end of Deep Lake, the trail began to climb, eventually turning SW as it went over a broad minor pass.  This pass was a region of open ground and boulders with scattered clumps of stunted conifers and bushes.  Temple Lake soon came into view, its S end nestled at the base of Temple Peak (12,972 ft.).

On the SW side of the pass, Loop came to a trail junction.  Two different branches of Little Sandy trail No. 98 converged here.  SE of Temple Lake, and 900 feet higher, Lupe could now see the major pass she needed to get to along the ridge connecting East Temple and Temple Peaks.  The combined trail turned toward it.

Crossing the minor pass. Temple Peak (L). Photo looks S.
Temple Lake comes into view. The pass between East Temple Peak (L, not shown) and Temple Peak (Center) is on the L. Photo looks S.

As the American Dingo journeyed SSE toward the major pass, SPHP kept expecting the trail to go down to the E shore of Temple Lake, but it didn’t.  Instead, the path went on and on staying well above the lake.

This valley was another spectacular region.  Temple Lake was long, with N and S halves connected by a narrow channel.  The entire W shoreline hugged an enormous rocky ridge leading to Temple Peak.  Temple Peak itself was a formidable mountain.

As Loop got closer to the S end of Temple Lake, a trail could be seen on the steep slope going up to the major pass.  Expecting the trail Lupe was on to connect to it, SPHP was perplexed when the path suddenly turned clearly and very steeply up the slope to the L (E) instead.  Could this be right?  Didn’t seem like it, but maybe this was only a temporary blip higher?

Lupe started to climb.  Already fabulous views improved, but the trail did not level out.  Instead, it continued higher and higher, finally fading completely away in very steep rocky terrain.  Pausing to gasp for air, SPHP checked the maps.  Sure enough, this was all wrong!  Really not too surprising.  Must have missed a turn.  The trail should have gone down to Temple Lake.

Reluctant to lose hundreds of feet of hard won elevation, SPHP simply encouraged Loopster to keep going.  Maybe she could still work her way over to the pass?  If this slope got much steeper, though, retreating would soon be the only viable choice.

Approaching Temple Peak (Center) before the trail turned higher. Photo looks S.
A Cheval Peak (11,763 ft.) (L of Center). Warrior Peaks (12,406 ft.) and War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) (both R) in the distance. Photo looks back to the NW.
Temple Lake again from a little higher up. Photo looks NW.

Heading for the pass didn’t work.  Lupe never got there, but she didn’t stop climbing.  Really steep for a long way.  It kept looking like she would top out pretty soon, but she didn’t.  A small half-frozen lake appeared in a cirque way above, and W of, the S end of Temple Lake.

Loopster (L) never quite made it to the pass (R). Photo looks S.
A half-frozen lake (Center) came into view N of Temple Peak. S end of Temple Lake (R). Photo looks WSW.

By the time the terrain leveled out somewhat, Lupe was already higher than the pass she had been heading for.  She could now glimpse portions of a couple of the Frozen Lakes in a rocky plain beyond the pass.  To the NE, a somewhat grassy slope led toward a talus-laden ridge way above the pass.

While this next slope was plenty steep, it wasn’t nearly as steep as what Loop had just come up.  Getting to the ridgeline wouldn’t be the end of things, though.  The topo map made it clear that what could be seen from here was only a false summit.  Looper was still 0.67 mile from the top of East Temple Peak.

Gazing over the pass between East Temple Peak and Temple Peak. Parts of a couple of the Frozen Lakes (L) are in sight. Photo looks S.
The next slope along the broad ridge leading to the summit. Photo looks NE.
Heading higher! Photo looks N.

Up, up, and away!  Wherever possible, Lupe followed lanes of vegetation higher, but she was often forced to scramble among the talus, too. Above the first rise was another one quite similar to it, except that the upper lip of this second long slope boasted several distinct rock formations.

Below rock formations at the top of the second rise. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP’s progress up these two slopes was almost as slow and exhausting as on the very steep slope coming up from Temple Lake.  Loopster had plenty of time to sniff around while waiting for SPHP to catch up, but at last she scrambled up past one of the rock formations at the top of the second rise.

Ahead was a much flatter region with a fair amount of greenery dotted with many boulders.  This area was quite broad, and rose more gently along the NW side.  Toward the E was a long talus ridge which sloped up toward the apparent summit, a large mound of talus to the N.

In the flatter region above the second slope. Photo looks W.

The trek across the plain over to the base of the mound was easy.  Lupe discovered a snow bank melting in the shade of a huge boulder.  The talus the mound consisted of was very large, and exploring the resulting maze was slow and difficult.  At one point, SPHP had to squeeze through a talus tunnel to get any farther.  At another, Loop needed to be hoisted up an otherwise impossible leap.

Despite the progress the Carolina Dog was making, SPHP’s belief that she was nearing the top was repeatedly disappointed.  One after another, false summits appeared, always another 40 or 50 feet higher.

On the snowbank at the base of the talus mound.
Approaching an apparent top.

Looper finally got high enough to see that she wasn’t actually close to the true summit yet at all.  Rocky, but flatter and easier terrain led over to a second talus hill farther N along the narrowing top of East Temple Peak.  By now it was clear that Lupe could have saved a lot of time and effort.  If she had only stayed farther W, she would have completely avoided the huge talus mound she’d just climbed.

The true summit appears ahead. Photo looks N.

Before heading for the true summit, Loop wandered over toward the NW edge.  Not too close, due to the sheer cliffs, but close enough to see Big Sandy Lake which she’d been to yesterday, and Clear Lake where she’d started out from this morning.  She also had a tremendous view of a sea of jagged peaks extending as far as she could see along the length of the Wind River range.  Only a few looked any higher than where Lupe was right now.

Lake 10821 (far L), Big Sandy Lake (L) and Clear Lake (Center). Photo looks NW.

The mound of talus leading to the true summit wasn’t nearly as large as the first mound Lupe had climbed, so it didn’t take too long to get to the top.  At the high point, two large light-colored boulders were just about equally high.  Lupe leapt up onto the one closest to the E edge, the top of the other boulder being perhaps too small for comfort.

Heading for the true summit. Photo looks NE.
On the true summit of East Temple Peak. Photo looks E.
Another look. Lupe at the true summit. Photo looks NNW.

The views from East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) were awesome!  Less than 1.5 miles due E was another, even higher peak Lupe had been to 3 years ago, titan of the SE Wind River Range, mighty Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.)Mount Nystrom (12,356 ft.) to the SSE was also impressive.

Wind River Peak (R), giant of the SE end of the Wind River Range. Photo looks E.
Looking N.
Mount Nystrom (Center). Photo looks SSE.

To the S were glimpses of Independent Mountain (11,653 ft.) beyond the Frozen Lakes, and Little Sandy Lake beyond Little Sandy Lake Buttress (11,427 ft.).  Much of Temple Lake was in sight to the WNW, and beyond Schiestler Peak (11,624 ft.), the entire Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) ridge was on display.  Bunion Mountain (11,905 ft.) stood out a little farther N.

Little Sandy Lake and Little Sandy Lake Buttress (far L). Frozen Lakes and Independent Mountain (R beyond the near ridge). Photo looks S.
Temple Lake (L), Miller Lake (R) and Lake 10281 (far R). Laturio Mountain (R) beyond Schiestler Peak. Bunion Mountain (far R). Photo looks WNW.

And, of course, only a mile to the SW was a grand view of the fearsome cliffs of Temple Peak (11,972 ft.).

Temple Peak (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

The true summit was a small, bouldery area.  Not difficult to get to, but rather cramped.  Lupe didn’t remained perched on the highest rock for long.  Another high point only modestly lower could be seen off to the N, closer to the most amazing views of all from East Temple Peak, which were of all the many rugged peaks stretching away to the NW along the spine of the Wind River range.

Heading over to this next high point, Lupe found a metal tube hidden among small rocks beneath an overhanging boulder.  The outside of the tube was stamped “Chicago Mountaineering Club 25th Anniversary 1940 – 1965”.  SPHP managed to open the tube, but sadly all the papers inside were soaking wet.  Nothing but garbage at this point.  Putting the cap back on, SPHP returned the tube to its lofty hiding place.

At the next high point N of the true summit. The metal tube was hidden among the small rocks to the R of Loop. Photo looks NE.
The Chicago Mountaineering Club 25th anniversary tube.

There was more!  Beyond the metal tube high point, the narrow prow of East Temple Peak extended a little farther N.  A big flat rock led to other rocks beyond it where a small cairn sat near the very end.  The prow even went a bit farther than this, but big cracks among the rocks near calamitous cliffs meant the Carolina Dog was done.  The little cairn was as far as she was going.

From here, the vertical E face of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.) could be seen to the NNW, hundreds of feet lower, looking as though that half of the mountain had suffered a catastrophic collapse.  Beyond Haystack, Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.), Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.), and Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.) stretched away along a giant ridge.  Lizard Head Peak (12,842 ft.) soared higher yet beyond Dog Tooth.

On the big flat rock leading to the prow of East Temple Peak. Photo looks N.
By the cairn nearly at the end of the prow, as far as Lupe was going. E face of Haystack Mountain (in shade R of Center). Dog Tooth and Lizard Head lined up beyond it. Dog Tooth flanked by Mitchell Peak (L) and Big Sandy Mountain (R) on same ridgeline. Photo looks NNW.

Focusing a little more toward the NW, the Cirque of the Towers was in view.  Cylindrical Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.) looked much lower.  SPHP didn’t dare let Loopster get close enough to the edge to peer down on Mini-Pingora (11,390 ft.) and Deep Lake, but part of Big Sandy Lake was in sight.

Lake 10281 (L) and Big Sandy Lake (Center). Pingora Peak (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks NW.
War Bonnet Peak (L), Wolf’s Head (in sunlight L of Center), Bollinger Peak (in shadow at Center), and Pingora Peak (R of Center). Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

East Temple Peak was an incredible vantage point!  More than an hour went by, as SPHP surveyed the views and Lupe relaxed.  The American Dingo devoured an entire can of Alpo.  Finally, lengthening shadows could be ignored no longer.  It was time.

Lupe returned to the N high point where the Chicago Mountaineering Club tube was hidden.  Although she got close again, she never did go back to the true summit.  Instead, Loop passed W of both it, and the huge mound of talus she had climbed on the way up, making much faster progress on easier terrain.

Starting back. Metal tube HP (L). True summit (R). Photo looks S.
Passing the metal tube HP again. Photo looks NE.
Temple Peak (Center) from East Temple Peak. Photo looks SW.
Near the true summit (R) again. Photo looks S.

After crossing the relatively flat plain, Loop reached the edge of the huge slope leading down to the pass.  Starting from rock formations along the W end, she worked her way lower, trying to avoid fields of talus as much as possible.

Nearing the end of the upper flat region. Loop started down near the L side of the rock formations ahead. Temple Peak (Center). Photo looks SW.
Glancing back after starting down. Photo looks N.

By the time Lupe was approaching the pass, the sun was just about down.  The pass was a jumble of rock.  The Carolina Dog didn’t go all the way down to it until she was close to the N edge, ready to begin the next steep 900 foot descent down to Temple Lake.

Near the pass between Temple Peak (L) and East Temple Peak (R) (both unseen). Temple Lake (Center). Photo looks NW.

A stream trickled down from the pass.  Lupe found the trail she had seen earlier in the day, and started N along it.  Progress was fast at first, but slowed considerably as the trail steepened.  Light was fading as Looper passed a long snowbank near the bottom of the slope.  It was almost gone by the time she reached Temple Lake.

At Temple Lake. Photo looks NW.

SPHP had assumed that by getting back to the trail and reaching Temple Lake before the night grew completely black, that Lupe would have an easy time the rest of the way back at least as far as Deep Lake.  Nothing more than sticking with the trail would be involved.  Wrong!  Down by the lake, the trail soon vanished, and could not be found again even with the help of SPHP’s small flashlight.

Heading N over a stony region so close to the E shore of Temple Lake that standing water was often seen between the rocks, Lupe sniffed in vain.  No trail!  Before long, it became apparent that the Carolina Dog was approaching a boulder field beyond which a dark ridge extended W far enough to create a choke point along the shoreline.  To get past this ridge, Loopster would either have to wade through the lake, or find a way over the ridge.

Overhead, stars were now brilliant in the night sky, but the valley was pitch black.  Wading into the obsidian depths of Temple Lake was not an option.  Way too scary!  Forced to climb a steep slope, Lupe managed to get beyond the ridge, but found no trail continuing N up here.  Instead, Loopster reached a point where she couldn’t climb any higher.  After crossing a marsh, the terrain forced her all the way back down to the shoreline again.

In the dark, confusion reigned.  Where was the trail?  Why was this so blankety-blank difficult?  Consulting the map provided no clues.  Looked perfectly simple!  Follow the non-existent trail, which couldn’t be too far from the lake, and no more than 100 feet above it.

Continuing N next to the lake, the whole scenario repeated itself.  Once again, the American Dingo was forced to climb a steep slope, found no trail, and made it past another ridge.  Once again, the terrain returned her to the shoreline, but this time the ground was firmer and drier.  It began to slope gently up toward the NE, the direction where the minor pass to Deep Lake had to be.

Late.  Weariness setting in.  The slope was easy, but SPHP was now just dragging.  Often glancing up at SPHP, as if uncertain what this was all leading to, Lupe looked worried.  Some indeterminable distance ahead, slightly off to the R, a strange phenomena appeared.  A glow!  Faint, ever so faint.  A lone firefly?  Didn’t make any sense.  No fireflies in Wyoming, are there?  Maybe it was something bigger, but much farther away than it looked?

As Lupe headed toward the tiny beacon, it soon became increasingly clear that whatever it was was close.  Reaching the source, SPHP picked up a tiny glowing plastic candle flame mounted on a round white base.  A little black switch on the bottom turned it on or off.

SPHP slumped to the ground.

Let’s rest here for a bit, Loopster.  I’m about out of gas, and my paws are getting awfully sore.  These new boots are doing a number on them.  No rush now that the light’s gone, anyway.  What do you make of this little flame?

Probably dropped by one of Mini-P’s acolytes during some dark mountain ceremony!  This whole region is a sacred temple, isn’t it?

It is!  Seems a little strange that Mini-P’s acolytes use battery-operated flames, though.  And even stranger yet that we’ve happened upon it while the battery still has some juice.  Think I’ll keep it, just as a souvenir of our journey to East Temple Peak.

I don’t know, SPHP!  Maybe you should leave it alone?  Why risk the wrath of Mini-P?  Stealing it might bring a curse upon us!

Turning the tiny candle flame off, SPHP tossed it in the pack.

Curse, schmurse!  I’m not afraid of any dark mountain curse, not when I’ve got an American Dingo on my side!

Go ahead and tempt fate!  You’ll see, SPHP!

The return soon continued.  Only 100 feet from where the tiny flame was found, Lupe came across the trail.

Hah!  Some curse!  We are in possession of Mini-P’s good luck charm, Looper!  Smooth sailing from here on.

The Carolina Dog made no reply.  Sniffing on into the night, she quickly came to the intersection where Little Sandy trail No. 98 divided.  Staying toward the R (NE), Lupe and SPHP headed over the gentle pass leading to Deep Lake.

The descent to Deep Lake was surprisingly longer, steeper, and rockier than SPHP remembered, but the trail was easy to follow even in the dark.  Loop eventually reached the boulder-strewn bedrock plain where the outlet stream exited the N end of Deep Lake.

On the way down to Clear Lake, the exposed bedrock was much harder to follow than expected.  Somehow, SPHP kept winding up thrashing around in bushes and bogs, usually E of where the stream turned out to be.  Lupe kept coming across trails, though, and repeatedly ran across the bedrock again.  Still, it had already been dark for hours by the time she reached the N side of Clear Lake.

After getting past the clearing Loopster had gone through shortly after reaching the trail as she set out this morning, SPHP led the Carolina Dog up the slope to the N toward the hidden location of her tiny house.

Oh, joy!  The tiny house was so well hidden, SPHP couldn’t find it!  Multiple forays up the slope followed by retreats clear down to the trail, and back and forth as far as the W end of Clear Lake, before returning E revealed nothing.  Again and again, SPHP searched the slope for stands of dead trees and rock outcroppings, both known to be present near the tiny house, but never came across the right ones.

Come on, Loop!  Help me!  Where is it?  Find the tiny house!

I can’t, SPHP!  It’s the curse of Mini-P!

Maybe it was.  Finding the tiny house had never been an issue before.  Leading Lupe over to a meadow on the S side of the trail, SPHP laid down, pulling the Dingo close.  Miss Hot Paws was like an oven, but a small one.

Stars glittered overhead.  All else was infinite blackness.  Using the pack as a pillow, SPHP tried to sleep.  Inside the boots purchased for this Dingo Vacation, SPHP’s swollen paws throbbed, painfully constricted.  Unable to shift much lest the Carolina Dog feel disturbed and insist upon wandering off, SPHP could feel the curse of Mini-P taking over.

Connected to the subterranean power of Mini-P’s anger, the cold earth became a basilisk.  No staring into its eyes, but its mere touch sent icy fingers creeping inwards.  Racing blood turned to sludge.  Joints stiffened and ached.  SPHP needed to move, but couldn’t.  Teeth chattered.

Oh, Loopster!  Too bad you aren’t inflatable!  You need to be bigger, like 5 times as big, so I can suck more heat out of you.  How do you stay so warm?

Well, I’m not inflatable.  Guess you’ll just have to use your precious stolen sacred candle flame, SPHP!

Sleep was impossible.  In the solidifying grasp of Mini-P, SPHP watched the movement of stars.  Or were they myriad tiny candle flames held forth by a timeless procession of dark acolytes?

How long this went on was hard to say.  Eyes glazed.  SPHP’s shuddering finally induced Lupe to leave.  The cold hard ground was intolerable without her.  SPHP staggered up.  Hobbling across the trail over to the N slope, the search for the tiny house resumed.

Same thing.  Nada.

The candle stars were dying.  One by one they faded away, then began to die en masse.  The dim outlines of Haystack Mountain and East Temple Peak were now discernable.  An idea!  Getting the camera out, SPHP compared the mountain outlines now visible with the first photo of the day, the one facing the same way where Lupe had been standing on the rock outcropping near the tiny house.

Nearly identical!  Maybe a bit more to the W?  Swinging the flashlight beam 30 feet over that way, there stood Lupe, the rock outcropping and faintly reflective fabric of the tiny house beyond her.  The curse of Mini-P was broken!  Dawn came on as Lupe and SPHP crawled into the tiny house and cozy warmth of the sleeping bags.

7-20-20, late morning N of Clear Lake – Hot!  Not a cloud in the sky.  Lupe still snoozed while bleary-eyed SPHP took off socks to examine painful paws.  Good!  Not as bad as they felt.  The R one was worst.  A generous application of anti-bacterial cream on the sore spots, and SPHP let them rest in the open air.

The plan had been for Lupe to climb another couple of peaks today.  Too funny!  Not going anywhere, except back to the Big Sandy trailhead, and even that not until later.  Simply not enough food along to spend a whole day resting, and still climb those peaks tomorrow.

A little after mid-afternoon, the paws were feeling good enough to give it a go.  SPHP slowly packed up the tiny house, Loopster lingering inside as long as possible before being evicted.  The heavy backpack didn’t feel good, but wasn’t as heavy as it had been on the way in.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the trail, starting the long journey back.

Uneventful.  Lupe didn’t take the side route to Diamond and V Lakes this time, although maybe she should have.  After reaching Big Sandy Lake, SPHP simply kept plodding steadily SW along Big Sandy trail No. 99, more interested in how far it was to the trailhead than the scenery.

The sun had just set when the American Dingo reached the trailhead at the Big Sandy Opening.  Too late to go anywhere else.  Tonight, after a good meal, Lupe would bask in the soft comfort of the G6.

And twitching paws would reveal the moment when the Carolina Dog set off again, wandering among waterfalls and glistening pools, past a deep lake overflowing with sacred waters where flowers bloomed and a mountain god reigned, on up steep talus-covered slopes, to the prow of a mighty mountain sailing an ocean of jagged peaks, while tiny candle flames began glowing and reeling in the black sky above.

East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming 7-19-20

Links:

Next Adventure                           Prior Adventure

East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming (7-18-20) – Part 1: Big Sandy Opening to Clear Lake

Big Sandy to Jackass Pass & Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range, WY (9-1-15)

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East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Big Sandy Opening to Clear Lake (7-18-20)

Days 7-9 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-16-20, 1:40 PM, Hwy 20, Wind River Canyon –  Middle of July.  The day had started out cool enough back in the Absaroka Range this morning, but was a scorcher out on the Wyoming high desert now.  Driving S, SPHP kept an eye on the tantalizing Wind River.  Any number of scenic pullouts, but no access.

Finally, a gravel road appeared that did go down to the river.  Turning off Hwy 20, SPHP drove partway down it.  A pickup truck was parked here, the only other vehicle around.

Come on, Loop!  Let’s go check out the river!

If you don’t mind, SPHP, think I’ll stay right here in the AC.

Sorry, not an option, Looper.  As soon as I kill the engine, the AC will stop.  You’ll roast on a day like this, even if I leave the windows open.

Reluctantly, Lupe leapt out of the G6 and followed SPHP the rest of the way down to the Wind River.  Perfect!  No rapids or fast water.  A huge pool half the width of the river swirled in a big, slow eddy, the current along the near bank actually going upstream.  The riverbed wasn’t rocky, and the water didn’t get deep until a little way out from shore.

One problem.  Two people were fly fishing.

They each made a few more casts, then announced they were just about to leave, anyway.  A few minutes later, they drove off.

Hah!  Good thing I brought my lucky Dingo!

Swim if you want to, SPHP.  I’ll just lay in the grass.

Suit yourself, Looper, but you really should wade in and cool off a bit first.

The Wind River was wonderful!  Refreshingly cool, not cold.  Egged on by SPHP, the Carolina Dog did spend a little time wading near the shore before relaxing on the bank.  Up on Hwy 20, traffic roared by, but no one stopped.  For an hour, SPHP swam, floated, drifted while gazing at the beige cliffs of the scenic canyon.  Fabulous!

I’m not much of a water Dingo, but the Wind River Canyon is lovely!

S of Riverside, the G6 read 96ºF.  Entering Lander, SPHP drove straight to the city park at the S end of Third Street.  Free overnight camping!  Very popular!  RV’s and tents everywhere.  The Middle Popo Agie River was the lowest SPHP had ever seen it, but Lupe had a grand time.  Lots of people, dogs, and squirrels around.  So much activity!

As the sun went down, SPHP spread pillows, blankets, and sleeping bags out on the thick green lawn beneath the big cottonwood trees.  Someone strummed a guitar and sang.  The park didn’t get quiet until late.  The American Dingo was shocked when she got to sleep out under the stars.

7-17-20, Lander City Park – Sleep?  Hah!  Dream on!  Looper hadn’t done much of that.  Every time SPHP woke up and peered into the darkness, Lupe had been laying on the grass, soft ears perked up listening to the night sounds, or sniffing and roaming among the tents nearby.  Now, as SPHP caught up the trip journal, a tuckered-out Dingo spent the morning snoozing peacefully in the deep green grass.

Power relaxing at the Lander city park.

This was supposed to be a positioning day for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) in the Wind River range, but there was plenty of time for that.  In fact, when Lupe perked up, she had time to enjoy an early afternoon visit to Sinks Canyon State Park half a dozen miles SW of Lander on Hwy 131.

The last time Lupe had been to The Sinks, the Middle Popo Agie River had such tremendous flow that the river completely filled The Sinks, with substantial overflow to spare.  With the river so low now, The Sinks was actually far more impressive.  The entire Middle Popo Agie River simply disappeared into a mysterious underground cavern.

The Middle Popo Agie River disappears into The Sinks.
Plaque describing The Sinks & The Rise.
Another display.

Conducting a closer inspection, Looper went right on down to the cavern entrance where the Middle Popo Agie River vanished.

At The Sinks.
Sinks Canyon from the mouth of the cavern.
Shady and cool down here!
Pretty awesome, aye?

Touring The Sinks didn’t take long.  Returning to Lander, SPHP stopped for supplies.  By 4:00 PM, Lupe was on her way out of town.  Up at the SE end of the Wind River range it turned out that USFS Road No. 300, which went to Louis Lake and beyond, was closed for repairs all the way to Burnt Gulch until August 20th.

Where was Burnt Gulch?  SPHP checked the map.

What does it say, SPHP?

As near as I can tell, Looper, it says Atlantic Peak isn’t happening, unless we want a longer hike, which we don’t.  No access to the trailhead, even if we go all the way back to Lander and approach it from the other end of the loop.

So what now?

Plan B.  East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).

S of the Wind River range, SPHP turned W off Hwy 28 onto the Lander Cutoff.  36 miles to the Big Sandy Openings!  It was an exciting drive.  Cattle, sheep, antelope stopped and stared in amazement, as a frenzied American Dingo sped past.

Start of the Lander Cutoff after leaving Hwy 28. Photo looks NW.
Keeping watch to the R.
Watching L.
Astonished sheep.
Startled pronghorns.
Wind River range from the Lander Cutoff.

After 26 miles on the Lander Cutoff, a 3 way junction appeared.  Here, a sign indicated that the Big Sandy campground was another 10 miles on the road going N.  When Lupe arrived, the campground and trailhead parking lot were both full.  Fortunately, overflow parking was available for the G6 only a little way back.

What remained of a beautiful evening was spent with a great view of Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) beyond the meandering Big Sandy River.

At the junction with the road to the Big Sandy campground. Photo looks NE.
Laturio Mountain (Center) from Big Sandy Opening. Trailhead parking visible on the L. Photo looks NW.

7-18-20, 9:10 AM, 68ºF, Big Sandy Opening, Wind River range –  Loopster trudged along behind SPHP on the way to the trailhead.  The American Dingo wasn’t as rambunctious and energetic as she had been just a little while ago.

While getting the backpack ready, SPHP had caught the crazy Carolina Dog digging frantically at a gopher hole, tearing great chunks of grass and dirt away with her fangs while enthusiastically clawing away at the entrance.  Loop had swallowed and inhaled so much dirt that she was coughing and having trouble breathing when SPHP made her stop.

Loop was breathing OK, and wasn’t coughing now, but seemed dejected.  Gorgeous day, though, and the trailhead was busy!  This was the jump off point for Big Sandy Lake, Jackass Pass, and the enormously popular Cirque of the Towers, which Lupe had been to years ago.  As Loopster approached the parking lot, a friendly old man stopped his vehicle to chat.  He asked where she was headed, and his eyes lit up when SPHP said East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).

Somewhat surprised because everyone goes to the Cirque of the Towers, the stranger pronounced East Temple Peak a fantastic destination.

What route you taking?

Clear Lake and Deep Lake.

Camp at Deep Lake!  Simply incredible!  You won’t regret it.

With that advice, the old guy waved as he drove off.

Sounded like he knew what he was talking about, didn’t he, SPHP?

Sure did, Loop.  Might have wound up there anyway, but shall we make Deep Lake our official goal for the day?

The American Dingo seemed happy enough with that notion, and was soon setting off on the Meeks Lake trail.

Start of the Meeks Lake trail at the Big Sandy trailhead.

The Meeks Lake trail was wide, well-trodden, and easy going.  Starting out in forest, Lupe was soon crossing a sunny meadow.  Not a cloud in the sky!  As the trail went on, the Big Sandy River was often in view off to the R (E).

Crossing a big meadow. Photo looks NNE.
By the Big Sandy River. Photo looks NE.

0.6 mile from the trailhead, Lupe came to an intersection.  The Meeks Lake trail veered off to the L, climbing into the trees, while Big Sandy trail No. 99 continued straight following the Big Sandy River.

Approaching the point where the Meeks Lake (L) and Big Sandy (straight) trails divide. Photo looks NE.
Loop at the signpost.

The Big Sandy trail was the most direct route to Big Sandy Lake, which Lupe did need to get to.  However, Big Sandy trail No. 99 was certain to be very busy on a Saturday in July.  An alternate route existed that would eventually hook back into the Big Sandy trail.

Although perhaps a bit longer, this alternate route went past both V and Diamond Lakes, which Lupe had never seen before.  Since it might be quieter, more scenic, and help break up the 6 mile march to Big Sandy Lake, Lupe stuck with the Meeks Lake trail, which was signed here as Continental Divide trail No. 96.

The Meeks Lake trail is part of the Continental Divide trail.

After gaining a little elevation, the Meeks Lake trail flattened out for a while.  Looper enjoyed an easy stroll going N through the forest.  She came to another rise after which the trail flattened out a second time.  Lupe went by Meeks Lake, which wasn’t far from the trail off to the W (L), but didn’t even see it due to the trees.

0.6 mile from the first intersection, the Carolina Dog came to a second one.  The Meeks Lake trail again angled off toward the L, but this time Lupe went R on the Diamond Lake trail.

On the Meeks Lake trail.
Sign at the second trail junction. Lupe took the Diamond Lake trail seen here on the R.
Sign at the second junction.

Gradually gaining elevation, the Diamond Lake trail wound NE for 0.5 mile through the forest.  As Loop started getting close to V Lake, the trail began going downhill.  As soon as V Lake could be glimpsed through the trees, Lupe left the trail and went down to it.

V Lake was fairly large, but shallow.  From the SW shore, Lupe had her first view of a number of peaks ahead.  Nearly 6 miles off to the NE, Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.), Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.), and Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) were all strung out along the same ridge.

Schiestler Peak (11,624 ft.) was somewhat closer and part of a different one.  Much closer, a mere 1.5 miles due N of V Lake, Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) formed a giant ridge all by itself.

V Lake. Mitchell Peak (far L), Dog Tooth Peak (L) and Big Sandy Mountain (Center) along the far ridge. Schiestler Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
Laturio Mountain from V Lake. Photo looks N.

After sharing a piece of fried chicken at V Lake, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Diamond Lake trail, which now headed NE along the W shore.  The N end of V Lake proved to be a marshy region.

Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) (Center) from V Lake. Photo looks ESE.
N end of V Lake. Temple Peak (L). Photo looks SE.
On the way to Diamond Lake after leaving V Lake behind. Schiestler Peak (L) and Temple Peak (R) with A Cheval Peak (11,763 ft.) between them. Photo looks E.

The mile long trek to Diamond Lake, about a mile NE of V Lake, was flat the entire way.  Lupe crossed a large damp meadow before getting there, and several minor gravelly streams near the lake.  Although Diamond Lake wasn’t as big as V Lake, it was quite pretty.  Most of the shoreline was forested, but the trail did pass through a big meadow N of the lake.

Diamond Lake. Dog Tooth Peak (far L), Big Sandy Mountain (L) and Schiestler Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
W end of Diamond Lake. Photo looks S.
A zen moment in the forest near Diamond Lake.
Leaving Diamond Lake. Photo looks SSW.

Less than 0.25 mile past Diamond Lake, the Diamond Lake trail merged with Big Sandy trail No. 99 again.  Only 2 miles to Big Sandy Lake now!

The Meeks and Diamond Lake trails had been a great alternate route!  V and Diamond Lakes were beautiful, had provided mountain views not seen along the Big Sandy trail, and the terrain had been easy.  Couldn’t have been much farther this way, either.  Better yet, Lupe had enjoyed complete solitude the entire way on a day when Big Sandy trail No. 99 was overrun.

Signs at the junction of the Diamond Lake and Big Sandy trails.

Big Sandy Lake was the largest lake Lupe would come to today.  By the time she got there, it was already mid-afternoon.  The heavy pack and new boots made SPHP eager for another break.  Although she’d been breathing easily the entire way, the Carolina Dog still seemed somewhat subdued after the gopher hole stunt this morning.  Loop was perfectly content to relax for a while near the S shore.

Dog Tooth Peak (L) and Big Sandy Mountain (Center) from the S shore of Big Sandy Lake. Photo looks NE.
Looper taking it easy.

Deep Lake was still 3 miles away.  Although getting around Big Sandy Lake would be easy, the trail would steepen once Lupe headed up to Clear Lake.  Consequently, the rest break was shorter than either Lupe or SPHP would have liked.  Nevertheless,

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Leaving the S end of Big Sandy Lake, the trail followed the W shore N for 0.5 mile.  Both the solid rock ridge of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.) and dramatic ship prow summit of East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) came into view along the way.

Haystack Mountain (Center) from Big Sandy Lake. Photo looks ESE.
On Big Sandy trail No. 99. Big Sandy Lake and Schiestler Peak in view. Photo looks S.
Haystack Mountain (L), top of East Temple Peak (Center) and Temple Peak (R) from Big Sandy Lake. Photo looks SE.

At the N end of Big Sandy Lake, Lupe came to another trail junction.  Big Sandy trail No. 99 went N from here up to Jackass Pass and Lonesome Lake, but Lupe now left it, going E on Little Sandy trail No. 98 instead.

On her way around Big Sandy Lake, Lupe forded several streams.  Lost Creek and North Creek were both small.  Easy rock hops for SPHP.  Black Joe Creek, the last stream Lupe came to, was considerably larger than the others.  Fallen logs got SPHP across without wet feet.  Hiking poles came in handy during this maneuver.

Crossing North Creek. Schiestler Peak (R.) Photo looks SE.
Little Sandy trail near the N shore of Big Sandy Lake. War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) (R). Photo looks NW.

After crossing Black Joe Creek, the trail climbed a little way up a steep slope before dropping almost all the way back down again.  Lupe was now leaving Big Sandy Lake behind, heading SE along the NE side of a big marshy meadow.  She skipped a L turn onto Trail No. 116 which went to Black Joe Lake, and watched for a junction where Little Sandy trail No. 098 divided.  She came to it before reaching the end of the meadow.

The nice new sign at the turn for Clear Lake and Deep Lake.
Glancing back at Big Sandy Lake and War Bonnet Peak (Center) after starting up the trail to Clear Lake. Photo looks NW.

300 feet of elevation gain up to Clear Lake in a little over 0.5 mile.  Little Sandy trail No. 98 gradually steepened as it wound through forest and over bedrock.  Lupe and SPHP plodded along.  Not a difficult trail at all, but the backpack felt heavier with every step.  As the trail finally leveled out, the W end of Clear Lake came into sight along with a gorgeous view of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.).

Haystack Mountain from the NW end of Clear Lake. Photo looks SE.

SPHP couldn’t wait to shed the backpack.

Oh, Loopster!  What do you think?  Isn’t Clear Lake fabulous?  I shouldn’t be, but I’m all worn out.  Would you mind if we camp here tonight?  Still another 1.5 miles up to Deep Lake, and I simply don’t feel like doing it.

Fine with me, SPHP, but aren’t you just delaying the inevitable?  I thought you’d originally hoped to get way up to Temple Lake.  It’ll be that much harder to get up East Temple Peak tomorrow if we stay here, won’t it?

Yeah, I know it, but at the moment, I don’t care.  Ready to call it.

Alright then.  As you wish!  Certainly can’t fault this scenery!  Let’s look around for a spot.

The SW end of Clear Lake looked attractive.  Lupe and SPHP headed over that way, rock hopping Clear Lake’s outlet stream in the process.  Not much soil around here, which explained why the forest was more open.  A great deal of exposed bedrock provided rock solid camping spots, which didn’t hold much appeal since SPHP hadn’t brought any padding other than the sleeping bags.

Further exploration revealed tents already set up at a great spot with some soil.  Eh, best to move on and let them enjoy their privacy.

Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) from near the W end of Clear Lake. Photo looks NE.
W end of Clear Lake. Schiestler Peak (R of Center). Lupe explored the far shore while looking for a campsite. Photo looks SW.

Returning to Little Sandy trail No. 98, Lupe and SPHP continued E on the N side of Clear Lake.  Along the way, Looper made several forays up into the forest N of the trail looking for campsites.  She found some good ones, but they were all occupied.

Clear Lake from a little farther E along the N shore. Photo looks SE.
Another look at Schiestler Peak (R of Center) from Clear Lake. Photo looks SW.

Finally, after 3 or 4 tries, the Carolina Dog did find an unoccupied spot that would do.  50 feet higher up a steepish slope, and a good 200 feet N of the trail, was a small level patch of soft dirt amid a bouldery region featuring mostly dead trees.  15 feet to the E was a rock outcropping sporting an abandoned loose stone campfire ring.  From here, Lupe had a partial view of Clear Lake and East Temple Peak beyond it.

7-18-20, 6:37 PM, campsite N of Clear Lake – Good enough!  SPHP set up Loopster’s tiny house.  As soon as the sleeping bags were spread out, she was eager to get inside.  Time to eat and rest up for a big day tomorrow.

The last of the fried chicken disappeared.  Satisfied and tired, both Lupe and SPHP welcomed the sandman long before Mother Nature turned out the light.

N of Clear Lake, Wind River range, Wyoming 7-18-20

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East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Clear Lake to the Summit (7-19-20)

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