Carolina Dog – Page 82 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

2-7-22, 9:42 AM, Custer State Park, Badger Hole trailhead –

Badger Hole! SPHP, we aren’t going to …

Oh, yes we are, Loopster! Centennial Trail No. 89 S from Badger Hole! But don’t worry, not going to let it become a fiasco like last time.

Badger Hole near Legion Lake is locally famous as the former home of Charles Badger Clark (1883 – 1957), Poet Laureate, author, and one of early South Dakota’s best known citizens.

Yes, but that’s not what I remember Badger Hole for, SPHP!

No! Indeed not! For Lupe, Badger Hole was infamous as her starting point nearly 10 years ago way back on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, when she’d taken Centennial Trail No. 89 all the way to the Highland Creek trailhead near Wind Cave National Park and back, a distance of 29 miles round trip. A decent day hike by most any standards, and that was if one didn’t get lost like SPHP had, tacking on who knows how much more mileage stumbling around off-trail for hours in the dark.

No. 20 had been an expedition of many wonderful adventures, but had turned into a grueling, 19+ hour ordeal that hadn’t ended until dawn the next day. By then, young Lupe had been injured, somehow slicing one of the pads on a paw wide open during the night.

So, today, a more modest goal.

We’ll just go as far as the French Creek Horse Camp, this time, Looper. Only 4.2 miles one way.

That sounds much better, SPHP.

Might tack on a jaunt to Peak 5120, too, if we’re still feeling up to it once we reach French Creek.

Knew there’d be a catch! I’m CinderDingo, though! We better be back to Badger Hole before midnight!

A much earlier return that that was the plan as the American Dingo set out on Centennial Trail No. 89, heading S from Badger Hole.

A little up and down, and the trail turned SW up a shallow valley. This was actually just a spur leading from the Badger Creek trailhead to the main Centennial Trail No. 89 N/S route. Upon reaching the main trail, Lupe turned L, which was the way to French Creek.

Following the Badger Hole spur up the shallow valley. Photo looks SW.

Climbing more steeply now, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued SW up the same valley. Lupe soon reached the more open upper end. Curving S, the trail left the valley, bringing her up to Pass 5180.

Entering the upper valley. Photo looks SW.

At **Pass 5180**, **0.67 mile SW of Badger Hole**. Photo looks S.

Beyond the pass, the trail dipped only slightly at first. There was a nice view of a big wall of granite and a mountain off to the NE.

That’s a sweet mountain! We ought to climb it someday, SPHP!

Think we will before too long, Looper. That’s Peak 5440 , a Lists of John peak with 400 feet of prominence!

Oh, are we still doing the Lists of John mini-blitz, SPHP?

No, not really, since you’ve already completed your achievement. At least, not on a mini-blitz basis. But we’ll still be visiting Lists of John peaks as we get the chance, just to see what’s out there. Might as well! Something new and different. If we get to Peak 5120 today, that’s another Lists of John peak.

A fork in the trail was just ahead. The branch to the L was marked with a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand.

Hmm. Seems like we went to the R here back on Expedition No. 20, Loop, but I just don’t remember for sure.

Better stay L, SPHP! It’s clearly marked.

I know, but part of our problem last time was that my Black Hills National Forest map showed Centennial Trail No. 89 dividing somewhere along in here with both E and W routes for a little way. I remember we took the W route going S, which went fine, but then we somehow got off on the E route on the way back and got lost.

That’s because we went clear to Highland Creek, and it got dark. So you missed the turn onto the W route without realizing it, SPHP.

Yeah, and then we lost the E route entirely.

Don’t overthink this, SPHP! That was long ago. Let’s stick with the clearly marked trail.

Probably good advice. Taking the marked trail L, Lupe went SE a little way along a flat region featuring a few rock formations before the trail turned S, descending into the next valley.

Near the minor rock formations. Photo looks SE.

Starting down into the next valley. Photo looks SSW.

Upon reaching the floor of the valley, Lupe came upon more signage. All the arrows pointed N, back where she’d just been, which wasn’t terribly helpful. Marked with not one, but two wands, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned E here, heading down the valley.

Gosh, I’m really confused now, Loopster. Remember this spot, but just about 100% certain that we did not go E here. We crossed this valley still going S, eventually winding up at Pass 5437. Would bet money on it!

Well, fine. Want to do that again, SPHP? Just point out the trail that goes that way, ’cause I’m not sniffing it!

Alright, I will!

SPHP spent several minutes looking for a trail going S across the valley, but finding none, conceded the point. Lupe headed E.

The trek E was super easy. Nearly flat, the trail soon became a two track road. Lupe eventually crossed a tiny frozen creek. After crossing it, the trail made a big jog to the SW, but soon looped back E again. None of this seemed even faintly familiar to SPHP, but every now and then a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand confirmed that Lupe was still on track.

About to cross the tiny frozen creek (R). Photo looks ESE.

After turning E again, the valley widened out. Another wand appeared, marking a R turn off the two track road.

Centennial Trail No. 89 leaves the road here, heading off to the R. Photo looks E.

As a single track, the trail once again doubled back to the SW, starting up a forested slope. After gaining some elevation, it then suddenly turned E. Still climbing at an easy pace, Lupe had to dodge some deadfall before the trail broke out of the forest, angling SE up a grassy slope.

Heading up the grassy slope after leaving the valley. Photo looks SE.

The trail leveled out as Lupe crossed a field, then slowly lost elevation curving E again. Down in the valley ahead, a road came into view that led to a metal building.

The road (Center) to the metal building comes into view. Photo looks ENE.

Loop! I think we went past that building when we were lost on Expedition No. 20!

Good to know, SPHP! Fortunately, we don’t have to go that way today. Stick with the program!

Centennial Trail No. 89 did not go down to the road. Instead it now swung SW, apparently destined for another valley. A trail map was posted near the start.

Heading for the next valley. Photo looks SW.

What does it say, SPHP?

Shows a lot more trails in this area than I would have thought, Looper.

Does it show your E and W routes of Centennial Trail No. 89?

No. At least, not both of them. Pretty sure we’re on what used to be the E route. No sign of the W route on this map.

And where do we go from here, SPHP?

Just keep heading SW up this next valley, Loop.

The valley was broad. The trail nearly level. That gradually changed. Centennial Trail No. 89 eventually linked up with a road. Lupe came to a spot where it looked like the trail was about to top out, but it didn’t.

Climbing faster now as the valley narrows. Photo looks W.

Getting close to a top? Photo looks WSW.

Nope. Still heading higher. Photo looks WSW.

Roughly 0.75 mile SW of the posted map, Centennial Trail No. 89 finally did top out.

Recognize this place, SPHP?

No, but I know where we are. We’re at Pass 5140, just W of Peak 5396.

Were we here on Expedition No. 20?

Yes, we must have been, Loop, but it was dark as pitch by then.

How much farther to French Creek from here, SPHP?

About another mile, Looper. Downhill all the way!

*This way to French Creek!* Leaving **Pass 5140**. Photo looks S.

Heading S from Pass 5140, Centennial Trail No. 89 quickly became steep and rocky as it dropped into the final valley leading to French Creek. After losing 300 feet of elevation, the rate of descent diminished.

Beginning the steep, rocky part of the descent. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP soon spotted a side valley to the R (W).

Hang on, Looper! Let’s check this out. Think this is where the W route came down from Pass 5437.

Hard to say with complete certainty, but it did look like some kind of an old trail went up the side valley. However, this region had burned since Loopster had been here nearly 10 years ago. Whatever remained of Centennial Trail No. 89’s W route was choked with uncleared deadfall.

Lupe continued on. The trail wound down the narrow valley. Loopster came to a tiny creek with a teeny weeny cattail pond. At the lower end of the valley, a boardwalk went past a wall of rock. An intersection near French Creek was just around the next bend.

Approaching the boardwalk. Photo looks SE.

At the trail junction near French Creek.

Still another mile to the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead, but it was an easy, scenic, upstream trek. Two fords, but they were frozen stiff in early February. The Carolina Dog sauntered across both without a care in the world.

Following Centennial Trail No. 89 upstream to the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SSW.

Standing on **French Creek**. Photo looks ESE.

Beyond the second ford, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed French Creek SE to the next bend before leaving it to head W across an open field. The trail soon turned SW. By then it wasn’t much farther to the French Creek Horse Camp.

Beyond the second ford. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the field after leaving French Creek. Photo looks W.

Near the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SW.

*Made it!* At the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks SW.

12:49 PM, French Creek Horse Camp –

Well, here we are Loop! The French Creek Horse Camp! Haven’t been here in nearly 10 years. Was a nice hike, wasn’t it?

Just think, SPHP! Last time we were here on Expedition No. 20, we were just getting started. 4 miles down, with 25+ to go!

Yes and no, Looper. Actually the very last time we were here, we were on our way back from Highland Creek that same day. It was getting mighty dark, and we were already famished and about worn out. Which brings up another subject. What do you think? Do you feel up to going on to Peak 5120? It will likely get dark on us on the way back.

As long as you aren’t going to make it a tradition to get us lost in the dark so that we have to stay out all night, I’m all in, SPHP!

SPHP wasn’t about to let that happen, especially not in February! So, rather than return to Badger Hole, Lupe headed S on CSP Road No. 4.

Leaving the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks ESE.

After crossing a bridge over French Creek, CSP Road No. 4 wound SE for 0.33 mile up to Pass 4780. A faint trail beyond a red sign that said “No Vehicles” went ENE from here toward grassy hills where the old forest had burned.

ENE was the way to Peak 5120. However, the original plan had been to stick with CSP No. 4, going over this pass down to the next valley before turning NE. Yet staying up on the open ground held some appeal, too.

Doesn’t say “No Dingoes”, SPHP! Want to try it?

Sure, Loop! Why not?

Should have known better. That burnt forest was why not. At first, it all went fine. Loopster trotted through the tall grass, taking aim generally toward HP5080, the highest hill visible from the pass. The terrain soon forced her NNE along the ridgeline, which was where the trouble began.

In the tall grass, heading for **HP5080** (R). Photo looks NE.

Lots of deadfall along the ridge!

Ignoring this early warning, SPHP led Lupe up to a rock formation with a nice view to the NW.

On the rock with a view. Photo looks NW.

From this viewpoint, Lupe continued on over the S shoulder of the next hill to the E, dodging deadfall to the extent possible. However, getting past the shoulder provided no relief at all. A winding, deadfall-laden mess the rest of the way to HP5080!

Criminitly, Loop! I never learn, do I?

No comment, SPHP. C’mon, let’s get there!

Approaching the S shoulder (R) of the next hill. Photo looks NE.

Closing (slowly!) in on **HP5080** (L). Photo looks ESE.

A wretched trek through the deadfall finally got Looper up to HP5080, which was just as big a mess as the rest of this icky ridge route. Once again, no relief in sight. More burnt forest between here and a second HP5080, a mere 0.25 mile to the ENE. 140 feet of elevation loss would be required before heading up its steep W slope, thrashing amid deadfall every step of the way.

And after the second HP5080, presumably a rinse and repeat yet again before Lupe would arrive at Peak 5120.

On the **W HP5080** looking ENE toward the E one. **Peak 5120** is partially visible beyond it.

Think I need a pick-me-upper, SPHP! Must be chocolate coconut bar time by now!

You’ve got that right, sweet puppy!

Unfortunately, chocolate coconut bars have such a short half-life that the ordeal soon had to be resumed. For a while now, a road had been visible in the valleys to the S. By the time Lupe managed to get down close to the saddle leading to the second HP5080, SPHP was done.

Forget this ghastly ridge route, Loopster! Head for the road!

And lose all this elevation we’ve been struggling to maintain, SPHP?

Yes, absolutely! This is taking forever and a day!

About to escape the deadfall and head down to the road. Photo looks SSE.

What a relief to be able to move again! The valley route was the way to go! Following the road around the S end of the second HP5080, the SW slopes of Peak 5120 came into view. The road wound right on up to them. A short grassy climb ended with another brief deadfall battle.

Going around the **S end of the E HP5080** (L). Photo looks NE.

**SW slopes of Peak 5120** dead ahead! Photo looks NE.

Success! On **Peak 5120**. **HP4971** (far L). Photo looks S.

2:55 PM, 53ºF, Peak 5120 – Wow! This could have been so much easier! A valley road hike all the way back to CSP Road No. 4 was clearly in the Carolina Dog’s future, but that could wait. Time for a break! As usual, today’s menu included the last chocolate coconut bar, Taste of the Wild, water, and for SPHP, an apple.

Peak 5120’s summit ridge looked like every other hill on the way here, a complete mess. Further exploration hardly seemed worth the effort. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, facing into a cool 10-15 mph NW breeze, Lupe relaxed while trying to enjoy the burnt tree-broken views.

Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was the closest real high point. Much farther away, and more to the NNW, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), and Peak 6735 could all be glimpsed from well chosen spots.

**Mount Coolidge** (R of Center, beyond Lupe). Photo looks NW.

**Little Devils Tower** (far L), **Cathedral Spires** (L), **Black Elk Peak** (R), and **Peak 6735** (far R). Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Although the views were interesting, nothing to the E or S was as high as Peak 5120, and higher hills to the W were harder to positively identify through all the dead trees.

Lower terrain all the way to the South Dakota prairies on the horizon. Photo looks SE.

Despite the sunny openness of the burnt forest, as the late afternoon sun sank in the SW, Peak 5120 felt isolated, remote.

Probably doesn’t get many visitors, Loop, but Jerry Brekhus was here once, a few years back. Betty, too.

Oh, do you suppose they built a cairn somewhere up here, SPHP?

Hmm. Maybe. Want to look around for one?

Exploring a little way along the summit ridge. Photo looks NNE.

A check of the highest portion of the summit ridge revealed no obvious cairns. 40 minutes after arriving, Lupe left Peak 5120, sniffing her way first to a slightly lower SW shoulder, before ultimately taking the S ridge down to the road’s high point.

A little open knob W of the road offered a great view of Peak 5120 back to the N. As the American Dingo started down the road, a clear view of Mount Coolidge was dead ahead, too. Lupe would pass E of it again on the way back to Badger Hole.

**Mount Coolidge** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The valley road route back to CSP Road No. 4 was a brilliant success! So much easier! Then it was N up to Pass 4780 again before heading down to the French Creek Horse Camp.

Got dark well before Loopster made it back to Badger Hole. Silver stars twinkled above when SPHP stopped to put new batteries into the little flashlight. But, as promised, the Carolina Dog suffered no repeat of the ever so long ago Expedition No. 20 fiasco.

No losing Centennial Trail No. 89 this time around! (7:09 PM, 44ºF)

**S of Peak 5120**, Black Hills of South Dakota, 2-7-22

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Next Trail Section N

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 272 – Centennial Trail No. 89 – Iron Creek Horse Camp to Badger Hole (4-1-21)

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

The Chains Lakes Loop Trail & Table Mountain, Cascade Range, Washington (8-17-21)

Day 12 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

10:27 AM, Austin Pass, Heather Meadows Recreation Area – A later start than it should have been, but that wasn’t Lupe’s fault. Coming to the North Cascades in Washington had finally paid off as far as escaping the wildfire smoke that hung over the rest of the American West, but even so, skies weren’t blue. Rain last night, then fog this morning.

Overcast, but at least the fog had finally lifted. Beyond a pond next to the parking lot, Table Mountain (5,742 ft.) was in sight. Whether that would last, or fog would return, was anybody’s guess.

**Table Mountain** (Center) from the **Austin Pass** parking lot. Photo looks SW.

Would be a lot better, if we had some sunshine, Loop. Still want to try it?

We’re here now, SPHP! Better take what we can get. Let’s give it a shot!

SPHP glanced at the posted trail map.

Alright, then! But let’s give the sky a chance to clear up before we get to the Table Mountain trail by taking the Chain Lakes trail counter-clockwise around the mountain. That’s the long way. Will take us quite a while.

Fine with me, SPHP! So, where do we go from here?

That way! Down to the visitor center, Looper.

Heading for the **Heather Meadows visitor center** (R). Photo looks W.

The visitor center was closed. Near it, displays were mounted on a rock wall overlooking the beautiful valley NE of Table Mountain.

**Table Mountain** (L) and the **Bagley Creek valley** (R). Photo looks W.

Huh. I don’t get it, Loopster! Late Tuesday morning in mid-August, and the visitor center is closed? Why?

We passed Mt. Baker Lodge on the way up, SPHP. Maybe this is just a ski resort area?

Hmm. You might be right, Looper. Winter’s probably when the big money is here. Quite an extensive trail system, though. I would think the visitor center would be open since it’s located by all these trails, and not over by the lodge or ski lifts.

No sign of the Chain Lakes trail, but a paved Fire & Ice trail headed SW. Maybe that was the way to go? Loop followed it down to a viewpoint overlooking upper Bagley Lake, but by then it was clear that the Fire & Ice trail was just going to loop back to the visitor center.

**Upper Bagley Lake** from the **Fire & Ice trail viewpoint**. Photo looks W.

Turning around to head back up to the visitor center, SPHP spotted a use trail leading over to a little ridge to the N.

Guess I’m not the only one that’s confused! Bet that use trail will get us down to the Chain Lakes trail! C’mon, Loop, let’s try it.

Worked great! Lupe was soon on a maintained trail that did lead down to the Chain Lakes trail, accessed via a stone bridge over Bagley Creek.

**Upper Bagley Lake** from the maintained trail. **Table Mountain** (L). Photo looks W.

Heading down to the stone bridge. Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the bridge over **Bagley Creek**.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe took the Chain Lakes trail W (L) along the N shore of Upper Bagley Lake. She came to one rocky section, but most of trail was flat and super easy.

Chain Lakes trail **N of Upper Bagley Lake**. Photo looks E.

Once past the lake, the trail began slowly gaining elevation. A remnant of a big snow field was melting off to the L. Soon a rock slide appeared ahead. The trail went right through it.

Approaching the rock slide. Photo looks W.

The melting snowfield. **HP5553** (Table Mountain’s E summit) (Center). Photo looks S.

Passing through the rock slide. Photo looks W.

Beyond the rock slide, the Chain Lakes trail entered the upper valley. Bagley Creek was only a small, tumbling stream up here. Lupe never had to cross it, but she did cross several tiny tributaries flowing over the trail as it began switchbacking higher.

**Bagley Creek** (L) from where the trail left it. Photo looks NW.

After switchbacking NNE up a steep slope, the Chain Lakes trail turned NW, now destined for Pass 5300 between Mazama Dome (5,800 ft.) and Table Mountain’s N Ridge. Views improved steadily during the long trek higher, but the sky remained as cloudy as ever.

**Pass 5300** (far L). **Mazama Dome** (L). Photo looks NW.

Looking SSE after climbing out of the valley. **Artist Point** (L), **HP5553** (R).

Getting closer to **Pass 5300** (L). **Mazama Dome** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Almost there! **Table Mountain’s N Ridge** (L), **Pass 5300** (R). Photo looks SSW.

12:34 PM, Pass 5300 – The Chain Lakes trail topped out more than 100 feet above Pass 5300 on Mazama Dome’s SE slopes. A shame it was still so cloudy! This was a very scenic area. Popular, too! Several groups of hikers were distributed about the region, and more were on the way.

About time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it, SPHP?

That it was! Climbing a little above the trail, Lupe chose a boulder as a perch. SPHP shared the requested chocolate coconut bar with her.

On a clear day, the American Dingo would have enjoyed a spectacular view of Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.) well beyond Upper Bagley Lake, but only the lower slopes could be seen now. Part of what had to be Table Mountain’s summit region was visible to the SSW. Looked only a few hundred feet higher. No way to get over there from here, though. A 200+ foot high cliff ran all along the mountain’s N face.

**Mount Shuksan** (Center) in clouds beyond **Upper Bagley Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Pass 5300** with **Table Mountain’s N Ridge** (Center) beyond it. Photo looks S.

Views W of the pass were the most surprising, in fact, shocking, of all. Lasiocarpa Ridge (6,521 ft.) and Coleman Pinnacle (6,403 ft.) were in sight, but there was no sign of Iceberg Lake, largest of the Chain Lakes.

**Table Mountain** (L), **Coleman Pinnacle** (L of Center), **Lasiocarpa Ridge** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Holy moly, Looper! I should have looked at the topo map more carefully!

Why? What’s wrong, SPHP?

Iceberg Lake is way down in a deep valley! Had no idea we were going to have to lose so much elevation! Here we’ve climbed all this way from Upper Bagley Lake only to have to lose it all again. Going to be a lot more elevation gain and loss on this little jaunt than I realized.

Well, not really. That was an exaggeration. Finally consulting the map, SPHP saw that the Carolina Dog was going to have to lose a little over 600 feet to get down to Iceberg Lake, half of what she’d gained on the way to Pass 5300 from Upper Bagley Lake. Still, 600 feet was nothing to sneeze at. It would all have to be regained soon enough.

For the moment, it was no big deal. Descending W of Pass 5300, losing 600 feet went smooth as silk on the good trail. Nice and easy! Lupe had barely started down when part of Iceberg Lake did come into view.

**Iceberg Lake** from the **W side of Pass 5300**. **Lasiocarpa Ridge** (L). Photo looks SW.

On the way down, Lupe lost sight of Iceberg Lake as the trail entered a heavily forested region. She’d lost nearly the entire required 600 feet when Hayes Lake, a smaller one N of Iceberg Lake, came into view.

**Hayes Lake**, middle lake of the **Galena Chain Lakes** group. Photo looks W.

Lucious, ripe blueberries were thick in this region, resulting in a delay as SPHP became entangled in the blueberry trap.

Come on, SPHP!

I’m trying, Loop, but they’re so scrumptious!

SPHP wasn’t trying very hard. Nevertheless, Lupe eventually prevailed. The Chain Lakes Trail continued WSW between Hayes Lake and Iceberg Lake. With the exception of one glimpse of Iceberg Lake, all the views were of Hayes Lake. Side trails went to Iceberg Lake, but they were all closed for restoration.

**W end of Iceberg Lake**. **Table Mountain** (L), **Coleman Pinnacle** (R). Photo looks S.

Beyond the gap between Hayes Lake and Iceberg Lake, the Chain Lakes trail turned S. Although only slightly W of Iceberg Lake, trees continued to block the views. SPHP was beginning to worry that Loopster never was going to get a good look at Iceberg Lake when, near the S end of the W shore, she came to a clearing.

And there was Iceberg Lake, deep green, mirror smooth, nestled at the foot of Table Mountain (5,742 ft.). Magnificent!

**Iceberg Lake**. **Pass 5300** (L), **Table Mountain** (Center, R). Photo looks E.

Near **Iceberg Lake’s outlet** (R). Photo looks SE.

From Iceberg Lake, the trail turned SW before curving S again to cross the outlet stream, one of the main sources of Wells Creek. Nearby, this stream flowed into Mazama Lakes, two small lakes very close together.

About to cross **Iceberg Lake’s outlet stream**. Photo looks S.

Convenient stepping stones so you don’t have to get your paws wet, if you don’t want to. Worked in mid-August!

From the S end of the smaller lake, which was little more than a pond, Wells Creek plunged into a deep canyon to the W.

Sounds like a big waterfall down there, SPHP!

The **smaller Mazama Lake**. An unseen waterfall leaves its far end. Photo looks S.

Sure did! The little stream made quite a roar as it exited the tiny lake. Would have been fun to go take a look, but if Lupe still hoped to climb Table Mountain, she needed to press on.

Whether climbing Table Mountain would even be possible, though, was increasingly in doubt. The Chain Lakes trail crossed a big rock slide as it left Mazama Lakes. Looking back, fog was sweeping in.

Leaving **Mazama Lakes**. Photo looks NNW.

**Mazama Lakes**. Getting foggy! Photo looks NW.

Crossing the rock slide. Photo looks SSE.

Gaining elevation again, the Chain Lakes trail became increasingly steep as Lupe continued past the rock slide. Fog came and went, but returned more and more frequently. A rounded ridge or hillside could sometimes be seen ahead. When Loop got there, the trail turned SE.

Heading for the **open ridge** or **hillside** (Center). Photo looks S.

The map showed a W route up Table Mountain somewhere not too far along this next trail section. Should be on the L. SPHP kept an eye out for it, as Lupe went through a forested stretch. Sure enough, she soon came to some kind of a trail that started up a steep slope on the L. No signage here, and the side trail was covered with branches, apparently to discourage its use.

Hmm. Maybe not such a good idea? Sticking with the Chain Lakes trail, Lupe kept going.

Upon leaving the forest, a long stretch of trail could be seen curving up to a much bigger open ridge. Views should have been spectacular along in here, but Loop enjoyed only occasional blurred glimpses of what was across the valley. Most of the time, she just trotted on through the fog.

Heading for the next big ridge (R). Photo looks SE.

Upon reaching the next ridge, Lupe came to a 3-way junction. By now, about the only thing that was clear was that the American Dingo wasn’t going to get to climb Table Mountain. No sense in expending that much effort in a dense gray fog. However, she could still go past Artist Point to Huntoon Point (5,247 ft.), which was lower, and also had a trail to it.

What do you think, Looper? Want to tag Huntoon Point? Not going to see a thing, but at least it counts as an ascent for the day.

Huntoon is kind of a pointless point, aye, SPHP?

Afraid so, Loop. Your call. Doesn’t really matter to me.

The Carolina Dog was in favor. Turning R at the junction, she’d only been going a few minutes, when a friendly young couple appeared out of the fog. Fortunately, SPHP stopped to chat with them. Right away they set SPHP straight. This wasn’t the way to Artist or Huntoon Point.

This was the Ptarmigan Ridge trail. Artist Point would have been a L turn back at the junction. They were heading back that way right now.

The fog suddenly cleared. The young couple was right! Artist Point and Huntoon Point were visible along a ridge more than a mile E.

Fog immediately swept over the ridge again. The vision vanished, and so did the young couple, eager to be on their way.

Nice to know I’m in the good paws of such an experienced navigator! After all these years, can’t you even read a map, SPHP?

Oh, hush, uppity Dingo! You know how it is! Easy to get lost in the fog. No visual clues, and fog always makes it seem like one has gone a whole lot farther than is actually the case.

Especially when the fog is in your brain, SPHP!

No doubt! Well, whatever. I plead guilty. So what? Get over it. C’mon! Onward, Puppy ho!

Lupe went back to the junction, and this time headed for Artist Point.

Traversing a steep slope, the trail was flat now. Progress was rapid. Soon it seemed like there was less fog. Artist Point kept appearing and disappearing from view. Now and then, Lupe could see across the valley.

Heading for **Artist Point** (Center). **Huntoon Point** (R). Photo looks E.

View to the SE. **Huntoon Point** (L). **Mount Ann (5,840 ft.)** (R).

It was meant to be. Loopster wasn’t far from Artist Point when a rough trail appeared going up the slope to the N (L). At this precise moment, the sun broke through the clouds. Wonder of wonders, blue sky! SPHP paused to check the map.

This is it, Loop! Start of the Table Mountain trail!

I thought we passed it way back there, remember, SPHP?

That was the W approach. This is the E route. If it’s going to turn sunny, we can still go!

Looking up, the nearly vertical E end of Table Mountain was in sight. Two people were up there! Winding their way down the mountain, they were going pretty fast.

**E end of Table Mountain** (L) from the Chain Lakes trail. Photo looks NW.

C’mon, Loop! Let’s go talk to them!

Setting off on the rough side trail, a short climb got Lupe up to a clearing on a ridge. Turned out that there was another 3-way trail junction here. Maybe a good spot to wait for the 2 hikers.

Starting up the very rocky trail. Photo looks N.

An older couple soon appeared. They were happy to chat. The trail up Table Mountain wasn’t as difficult as they’d been led to believe. Despite constant exposure on the way up, the trail was good. Plenty wide, just have to be a little careful. Once on the summit plateau, the rest is easy. Absolutely gorgeous!

No one at all left up there now! Oh, and one more thing. No pets, due to some loose rock and the exposure.

And with that, they were on their way.

What? No pets! Lupe had seen lots of dogs on the Chain Lakes trail. No one had a problem with them.

Tough break, SPHP! Guess you’ll have to wait here. I’ll tell you all about it when I get back! Might want to brush up on your map reading till then.

Hey, now! They meant you, not me, crazy Dingo! You’re the pet. Besides, they said not a soul is up there. Might well be true, as foggy as its been. Let’s go sneak a peek at what’s involved.

Sure enough, Lupe passed 2 no pets signs in the forest before emerging where she had a clear view of Table Mountain’s E end. Both signs were old and almost falling over. SPHP wasn’t impressed.

Doesn’t look like they really care, Looper. We came more than 1,000 miles for this, and won’t be bothering anyone. Let’s have at it.

**E end of Table Mountain**. Photo looks W.

The trail up was awesome! Loose rocks? Yes, some, but Looper didn’t make any of them tumble. Mostly solid rock. Exposure? Yes, but the trail was always 3 or 4 feet wide. It wound ever higher in spectacular fashion. Soon the American Dingo was looking down on both Artist Point and Huntoon Point.

Awesome route! Despite appearances, completely non-technical. Just a walk-up.

**Artist Point parking lot** (Center) with **Huntoon Point** beyond it. Photo looks SE.

A bigger climb than it appeared, but it didn’t take that long for Lupe to reach the end of the exposed part of the trail. As the terrain leveled out, the trail curved W around the S side of a hill. Instead of following it, Lupe climbed the hill. A couple of minutes got her to HP5553.

4:30 PM, HP5553, Table Mountain’s E summit – Wow! Incredible! It was another world up here! Table Mountain had a much more alpine feel than the Chain Lakes trail did. Lots of rock, patches of snow, blue-green tarns. A few trees, mostly along the steep S edge of the mountain. The broad summit plateau stretched nearly 0.75 mile to the true summit at the far W end.

Lupe stood at the absolute high point of the E summit next to a small cairn. A taller one rested nearby on a lower rock formation. The older couple was right! Absolutely gorgeous up here! Only one disappointing development. Blue skies had been a fleeting phenomenon. None now. Whole sky was gray again, all the higher peaks hidden in the clouds.

At **HP5553**, **Table Mountain’s E summit**. Photo looks W.

**Table Mountain’s N Ridge** (R, beyond Lupe). Photo looks NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

Oh, to have been here on a clear day! Why had the sun appeared, then forsaken the Carolina Dog? Mere glimpse of Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.), and no sign at all of Mount Baker (10,781 ft.).

**Mount Shuksan** (Center) from **HP5553**. Photo looks ESE.

It was what it was. Lupe was going to have to make the best of it. Still awesome up here! At least the local surroundings were all visible. Far better fortune than she’d been resigned to half an hour ago. Along the S edge of the summit plateau, the Table Mountain trail wound W toward the true summit.

Looks like fun, SPHP! C’mon, let’s get there before the whole mountain is socked in again!

A fabulous adventure ahead! Photo looks WSW.

Lupe headed W, picking up the trail again shortly before reaching a low spot where a big snowbank was melting away. Clearly, a frosty frolic was in order! Looper ran off to complete the mission.

Snow! Lovely, deliciously cold, snow! **Mazama Dome** (Center) in the clouds beyond **Table Mountain’s N ridge**. Photo looks NW.

The whole trek W was a grand time! A rumpled summit plateau made for a fair amount of up and down along the way. To Loopster’s delight, the Table Mountain trail actually crossed more snowbanks. By the forest along the S edge, it circled past a shallow tarn. Beneath the moody sky, there were rocky ascents and declines as wisps of fog sailed by.

Lupe had a blast exploring both on and off trail. The final rocky ascent to the true summit region at the W end of the plateau began all too soon.

Closing in on the W end of the summit plateau. Photo looks W.

Near the end, SPHP lost the trail again, making a short, but very steep scramble necessary.

Looking back from the top of the mini-scramble. Photo looks E.

Not much farther now! A last push higher, and the terrain began to level out. A forested high point was visible along the S edge of the mountain. At first, it appeared to be the true summit, but getting closer, a similar hillock obviously a bit higher appeared even farther W.

By now, Loop had rediscovered the trail, which continued on toward the second high point.

Final rocky climb ahead. Photo looks WSW.

5:26 PM, 48ºF, Table Mountain (5,742 ft.) – Foggy. Lupe stood on a flat rock at the top of a rise only 10 or 12 feet higher than the surrounding territory. A few trees and stumps took up much of the space on Table Mountain’s true summit, which was only 10 feet in diameter.

No indication of a survey benchmark, despite one shown on the map. No registry, or even a cairn. Under current circumstances, two small tarns to the NE at the base of this knoll were the only view.

Success! **Table Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks SW.

Outlaw American Dingo on **Table Mountain**.

Paw shaking time, Loopster! Congratulations on your successful ascent! Never would have believed it only a little while ago.

Thanks, SPHP! Might I take this opportunity to mention that paw shaking time is also chocolate coconut bar time?

SPHP found a spot to sit down. Showing true dedication while curled up on SPHP’s lap, the Carolina Dog did her best to lighten the pack of any lurking chocolate coconut bars, a project completed in jig time.

Born on a W breeze, fog streamed by, intermittently hiding even the nearby tarns to the NE. Occasionally the view opened up. Huge valleys were visible then, but not the surrounding peaks. A small tarn could be seen way down on a flat region to the N.

Conditions eventually improved. Far to the W, a bright patch of yellow sky appeared along the horizon. End of the clouds? Yellow brightness slowly grew, as if coming this way, but never seemed to get any closer. Then, suddenly, the lower glacier-clad slopes of Mount Baker cleared.

**Mount Baker** beyond **Coleman Spire** (L) and **Lasiocarpa Ridge** (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Beyond the two tarns to the NE, another heavily forested high point looked to be about the same elevation. The possibility that it might be the true summit couldn’t be ruled out from here.

We ought to investigate. Ready to do a little more exploring, Loop?

Already tired of sitting, the American Dingo was all for it. Going around the W end of the two tarns, she headed for the competing high point. SPHP kept an eye on Mount Baker, hoping more might be revealed.

Over at the competing high point, Lupe sniffed about the highest ground to the extent possible, but the forest was so dense that it was difficult to maneuver. Couldn’t see the first high point at all from here, so it really wasn’t possible to tell if this was actually the true summit, or not.

No survey benchmark, no cairn, not even a path into this thicket! Don’t think this is it, Loopster.

Farther NE, more high points were visible out on open terrain. Lupe ventured that way. Fun and interesting territory, but definitely lower.

**N portion of the true summit region**. **HP5553** (lower E summit) visible at (Center). **Mount Shuksan** (R). Photo looks E.

6:19 PM, Table Mountain – Returning to the consensus true summit, the American Dingo sat on the highest rock for the final time, Mount Baker still partially on display beyond her. Sadly, time to go.

Table Mountain has been a blast, SPHP! So glad we got to come here. Nothing against Huntoon Point, but this had to be better!

Yes, it’s been fun, Looper. Funny how things work out sometimes. The only brief sunny moment of the whole day at the right spot made all the difference. Never would have happened without that encouragement.

Final moments at **Table Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks SW.

The fun wasn’t over yet! Lupe had the whole return along the length of the entire summit plateau to look forward to, followed by that awesome snaking exposed route down off the mountain.

SPHP kept an eye on it, but Mount Baker’s summit never fully emerged from the clouds. Still some gorgeous views of the rest of the mountain, though, in the evening light. Lupe sniffed and ran to her heart’s content on the magnificent plateau. Progress was rapid going E, since it was mostly downhill this way.

**Mount Baker** (Center) during the descent. Photo looks SW.

7:29 PM – The sky was about as clear as it had been all day long when Lupe reached the official start of the Chain Lakes and Table Mountain trails at Artist Point. The giant parking lot and the road leading up to it from Austin Pass were new, open today for the first time after repair.

Perhaps why only a few vehicles were here this evening? Lupe went over to join the small crowd gathered to see Mount Baker at sunset. Sherman Peak (10,160 ft.) was visible from this perspective, too.

Start of the Chain Lakes and Table Mountain trails at Artist Point.

**Sherman Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Baker** (R) from **Artist Point**. Photo looks SW.

Just in time! Two minutes after reaching Artist Point, fog came boiling up out of the valley to the S. The show was over. Sherman and Baker vanished in an instant. The fog was so dense that SPHP had a hard time finding the road leaving the parking lot.

The rest was easy. A pleasant brand new road hike all the way down to Austin Pass. Lupe was soon below the fog. She wasn’t far from the end, when the clouds to the E fled, revealing Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.).

**Mount Shuksan** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Lupe’s RAV4 (blue) down at **Austin Pass**. Photo looks N.

The Chain Lakes trail and Table Mountain! What a fantastic, memorable day! No doubt would have been even better, if the skies had been blue. Lupe had been lucky, though, and had gotten to see almost everything.

In any case, there can’t be too many Carolina Dogs that can say they have ever seen Mount Baker from the glorious, fog-swept summit of Table Mountain! (End 8:25 PM, 51ºF)

**Mount Baker** from **Table Mountain**, Cascade Range, Washington 8-17-21

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