Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 301 – Sylvan Lake & the Custer State Park Buffalo Hunt (4-16-22)

11:48 AM, 32ºF, Sylvan Lake Picnic Area – Oh, the news was wonderful!  Yesterday evening Cousins Dusty, Laddie, and Uncle Joe had arrived for a visit.  Lupe was thrilled!  The enthusiastic American Dingo knew what that meant – good times on joint expeditions in the Black Hills!  The real question had been where to go?  Cousin Dusty would be turning sweet 16 in less than 2 months, and wasn’t up to anything long or strenuous.

This morning, SPHP had suggested the loop trail around Sylvan Lake, a choice agreeable to all, but hadn’t taken the lake’s 6,145 foot elevation fully into account.  Mid-April, but there was ice on the lake, snow on the ground, and a chill in the air as Lupe and her cousins set out from the picnic area for a counter-clockwise tour around the lake.  It was so cold out that only a couple of Canadians were hardy enough to be hanging out down by the beach.

Setting out from the picnic area. Photo looks NW.
Sylvan Lake from near the beach along the N shore. Photo looks SW.
Canadian geese.

Beyond the beach, the trail wound NW past massive granite formations and improbable spires.  Going over a bit of a rise, another part of Sylvan Lake came into view.  Cousin Dusty was doing great!  She even led the way, happy to be back in the Black Hills again.

Among the granite formations. Photo looks N.
Approaching the N end of Sylvan Lake. Cousin Dusty (R) in the lead. Photo looks NW.

Going around a bay, the trail climbed onto rock formations overlooking Sylvan Lake.  On this cold, overcast morning, the scene was mostly gray and white.  Pines added a green too subdued to break a wintery mood.

The N bay from up on the rocks. Photo looks SE.

Joe, Dusty, and Laddie got a head start as the trail turned SW descending into Sunday Gulch.  Protected from the sun by towering rock formations, there was even more snow down here.  Water seeped from a big crack in the granite.

Joe and Laddie start down into Sunday Gulch. Photo looks SW.
A snowy descent. Photo looks SW.
Laddie, Joe, and Dusty in Sunday Gulch.

Once down in Sunday Gulch, it was only a short distance to a junction with Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 near the Sylvan Lake dam.  The cloud cover thinned, and the sky brightened.  Suddenly, winter seemed to be losing its grip.  A hint of spring was in the air.

Joe, Laddie, and Lupe below the dam. Photo looks SE.

Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 is scenic, but steep.  Cousin Dusty wasn’t going to be able to take on a side excursion like that.  In fact, she had a bit of a problem with the next section of the Sylvan Lake trail.  Beyond the dam, the trail turned S going up a series of snowy steps that led into a narrow passage between vertical rock walls.

The passage was a sheet of ice!  A minor rise near the end was so slick that Dusty could scarcely get up it.  Repeatedly losing traction, she kept sliding back.  Joe had to brace himself between the rock walls to try to give her a helping paw.

Joe, Dusty, and Laddie head up the steps. Photo looks S.
Joe trying to help Dusty up the super slick ice.

After a couple of comical attempts, Dusty got the extra help she needed.  Emerging from the narrow passage at lake level near the dam, the rest of the path around the lake was a cinch.  Flat as a pancake, the trail ran right along the SW shore nearly all the way to the S end of the lake.

Near the dam (unseen off to the L) after successfully negotiating the icy passage. Photo looks NE.
Along the SW shore. Photo looks SE.
Looking NW back toward the dam (L beyond Joe).

Didn’t take long at all to get there.

Laddie, Joe, and Dusty at the S end of Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Loopster basking in weak sunshine.
The massive granite formation near the dam. Photo looks NW.

The scenic jaunt around Sylvan Lake was almost complete.  Not much farther back to the picnic area now.  Cousin Dusty seemed perplexed.  Other than the one icy spot that everyone had had a little trouble with, she was doing fine.  The adventure couldn’t be over already, could it?

At 15 years, 10 months, Cousin Dusty ready for more Black Hills action!

Joe proposed extending the trek with a stroll along Needles Highway No. 87, which remained closed to vehicles for the season.  After 0.33 mile, a shortcut was taken up to the high point of Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 between the trailhead and the picnic area back at Sylvan Lake.

Heading up to Trail No. 4 after leaving the Needles Highway. Photo looks SW.

A log served as a bench during a rest break.  The dogs shared a chocolate coconut bar, while Joe and SPHP munched on apples and Kind bars.  The party broke up after Laddie barked at hikers on the trail.

The return to the Sylvan Lake picnic area on Little Devils Trail No. 4 was quick and easy.  Downhill all the way!

On Little Devils Trail No. 4, about to head back to the Sylvan Lake picnic area.

1:45 PM – When everyone got back to the RAV4, there was still plenty of time to do something more today, but that was up to Uncle Joe and his assessment of how Cousin Dusty was faring.

Dusty appeared to be fine.  SPHP suggested Custer State Park’s wildlife loop.  Dusty might enjoy exploring the rolling grasslands.  Would take a while to drive there, with a good chance of seeing buffalo somewhere along the way.

A buffalo hunt, whether from the RAV4 or out on the prairie, sounded like a great idea!  Lupe was clearly in favor, and no one else seemed to have any objections.

2:36 PM – Buffalo had already been seen by the time Uncle Joe parked at a curve along CSP Road No. 2 about 0.33 mile N of Racetrack Butte.  Lupe had given her cousins live demonstrations of how to bark ferociously at bison from the safety of the RAV4.  Laddie was interested, but hadn’t quite picked up on it yet.

Dusty was ready for another outing, if it wasn’t a long one.  The plan was to climb a nearby flat-topped ridge hoping to spot more buffalo from a safe distance.

Setting off on the Custer State Park buffalo hunt! Photo looks SW.

Upon reaching the top of the ridge, the buffalo hunt became an instant success.  Two buffalo were relaxing on the prairie up here.  Not exactly a thundering herd, but they were impressive.  Upon seeing an American Dingo, both got up to keep an eye on Lupe, but didn’t really do anything except stand there.

I’m thinking buffalo burgers! How about you, SPHP? …. I’m thinking you’re close enough, Loop. Stay here!

Both buffalo soon decided they might as well eat grass.  Sensible enough, but not terribly exciting.  A lone pine stood near the SE end of the ridge.  Ought to be a great view of Racetrack Butte (4,320 ft.) and quite a bit of surrounding territory from over there.  Might as well check it out.

Dusty, Laddie, and Joe up on the ridge. Racetrack Butte (L). Photo looks SSE.

The hunch paid off!  From the end of the ridge there was a terrific view of a whole herd of buffalo in the valley next to Racetrack Butte.

Gazing down on the buffalo herd. Racetrack Butte (L). Photo looks SE.

This was a fabulous vantage point!  Many brand new calves were among the herd.  Joe, Dusty, Laddie, and SPHP all watched in fascination.

Buffalo and their calves with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was fascinated, too, but the excitement of seeing so many buffalo all at once quickly became almost unbearable.  The Carolina Dog began whining so loudly that the bison must have heard her.  All of a sudden, several began ambling off to the E.  Before long, they were running.

None of the buffalo wanted to be left behind.  Evidently convinced utter disaster threatened, the whole herd began stampeding away.  This did nothing to calm Lupe down.  Whining more than ever, the frustrated American Dingo watched the bison vanish across the prairie.

The buffalo race away past Racetrack Butte (R). Photo looks ESE.

Within minutes, the show was over.  The buffalo had provided quite a spectacle!

Joe, Laddie, and Dusty heading back.to the RAV4.

That wasn’t the end of all the excitement, though!  Once back in the RAV4, part of the same buffalo herd that had fled the Carolina Dog’s mere whining when she was way up on the ridge far from them, had stopped right on CSP Road No. 2, blocking the road.  Now that Lupe was barking hysterically right next to them from the RAV4, most barely glanced up.

Shut it, pesky Dingo! Can’t you see we’re grazing here?
Yeah, really not all that concerned.

Joe eventually had to ease the RAV4 slowly through the herd to get them to move enough to get by.  It was a good thing he got through, or Lupe would have busted a gut.  The whole experience left her foaming at the mouth, chest heaving.  Laddie had been so impressed that even he’d joined in for a moment.

That still wasn’t the end, though.  Lupe had plenty more chances to bark like a nutcase.  Wildlife was everywhere!  On the way out of Custer State Park, Loop saw more buffalo, a huge herd of elk, lots of mountain sheep, marmots, wild turkeys, and turkey vultures.  Uncle Joe was amazed at the quantity and variety of wildlife around, not to mention just about deaf, by the time the Custer State Park adventure was over.

Mountain sheep.
Being ignored by mountain sheep.

The reprieve of silence didn’t last long.  Outside the park, this was cattle country.  Cows and horses!  Lupe had to give them all what for.

So glad Uncle Joe, and cousins Dusty and Laddie were here!  What a great day!

Near Racetrack Butte, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-16-22

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Lookout Mountain, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-25-21)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Mid-morning, Hwy 35, 40+ miles S of Hood River

There’s a campground sign, SPHP!

Sherwood!  Good eye, Loop!  Should be a L turn coming up pretty soon.

The turn onto USFS Road No. 44 came 1.5 miles S of the campground.  No. 44 was a good road, paved even, as it climbed steeply NNE.  The road snaked around some before the rate of ascent began to abate.  After 3.5 miles, No. 44 topped out on a broad ridge.  The RAV4 was heading SE when a side road appeared on the R.

No. 4410, that’s what we want, Looper!

Start of USFS Road No. 4410 where it leaves No. 44. Photo looks SSW.

USFS Road No. 4410 was decent, too.  Not paved, but good, firm gravel.  Climbing all the way, but not as steeply as No. 44 had, No. 4410 headed S.  A few potholes and some washboardy sections, but any vehicle could do this.  Most of the route was forested, but after 4.5 miles, No. 4410 came to a line of boulders in front of a field.

Hmm.  This might be it, Loop.  Maybe we ought to look for a trail?

Unmarked, a lesser road ran E/W in front of the boulders.  Turning E (L), SPHP drove 200 feet to the edge of the trees, discovering a small parking area big enough for 2 or 3 vehicles on the L.  SPHP parked the RAV4, and Lupe returned to the field.

Parked at a pullout along USFS Road No. 4420. Photo looks N.
The field at the S end of USFS Road No. 4410. Photo looks SE.

No signs.  No trail heading across the field.

Huh.  Lookout Mountain (6,525 ft.) is less than a mile SE, Loopster.  Easy terrain!  Guess we can try just heading SE into the forest, if we want to, but let’s walk farther E along the road first.  I think there’s supposed to be an actual High Prairie trailhead somewhere around here.

600 feet E of the RAV4, there was a trailhead!  Vacant at the moment, but parking for a good dozen vehicles.  Posted information included a trail map.  There was even an outhouse.

High Prairie trailhead display.
Posted map.

10:02 AM, High Prairie trailhead –  On the S side of the road (USFS Road No. 4420), directly across from the trailhead, High Prairie Trail No. 493 took off bound for Lookout Mountain as a wide, smooth, apparently well-traveled path.

Start of High Prairie Trail No. 493. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe had barely gotten started, when the trail divided.  The wide path went straight ahead, crossing a meadow.  A less-frequented single track trail angled off toward the forest to the SW.  Sticking with the wide path, Lupe followed it S a little way before it began trending SE.

At the nearly instantaneous divide. Photo looks SSW.
Signage at the fork.

The E half of the Trail No. 493 loop sometimes went through forest, but Lupe enjoyed long stretches of meadow, too.  Even SPHP was making great progress, since the trail gained elevation quite slowly.

In the forest. Photo looks SSW.
Crossing a meadow. Photo looks S.

After the last meadow, the rate of ascent increased as High Prairie Trail No. 493 turned SW, re-entering the forest.  Lupe eventually emerged at a clearing of sparsely-vegetated red dirt.  No. 493 curved sharply E here.  SPHP noticed a path continuing SW from this turn, likely connecting to the less-traveled W half of the loop.

At the red dirt curve. Photo looks SW.

Beyond the red dirt curve, Loopster traveled through a long stretch of forest.  She got all the way to the E end of the mountain, where a smoky view of a huge expanse of much lower territory was on display in that direction.

Back in the forest. Photo looks E.

High Prairie Trail No. 493 reversed direction again.  Still in the forest, Lupe was climbing faster now as she followed the trail SW.  She didn’t have all that far to go this time, though, before the trail exited the forest at a saddle where a small hill was immediately to the W.  Two weathered wooden signs were attached to a post.

The gist of it all was that Lupe had reached a junction with Trail No. 458, which went either E or W from here.

Approaching the small hill. The junction with Trail No. 458 (L) is just around the next bend. Photo looks W.
At the junction with Trail No. 458. Photo looks WSW.
Trail No. 458 went either E to Fret Creek Trail No. 456, or W to Gumjuwac Trail No. 480.
The other choice, of course, was back to the E half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop, which Lupe had just come up.

By now, Lupe was already very close to the top of Lookout Mountain, which was just E of the saddle.  Taking Trail No. 458 E, the Carolina Dog ventured out onto an open slope dotted with gnarled, windswept trees, many of which were dead.  The first part of this short climb was the only steepish part of the entire ascent.

Curling up Lookout Mountain’s upper S slope, Trail No. 458 ultimately reached the summit from the E.

Trail No. 458 along Lookout Mountain’s upper S slope. Photo looks ESE.
Near the top. Trail No. 458 goes up at far R. Photo looks N.

10:49 AM, 65ºF, Lookout Mountain (6,525 ft.) – Crumbling remnants of an old lookout’s foundation greeted Lupe as she arrived up on a barren plateau.  The E end of Lookout Mountain’s summit region was higher and larger than the W end, which narrowed as it slanted down a bit.

Would have been a clear day, if not for the smoke of distant wildfires permeating the air in all directions.  Panoramic views to the S and E were badly marred by the haze, but maybe that didn’t matter so much, since all the territory off that way was much lower.

Lookout Mountain summit. Photo looks SSW.
Another mountain climbed! Maybe I’ll get a chocolate coconut bar?
At the true summit. Photo looks ENE.

Not as smoky to the N or W, but a line of trees obscured the views to the N.  Somewhat smokier to the SW, but not too bad.  The views were more interesting in that direction, too, because the mountains were higher.  Not as high as Lookout Mountain, but higher than the lowlands S and E.

From some rock formations along the S edge of the summit region, Lupe could see Badger Lake tucked down between Badger Butte (5,981 ft.), Gunsight Butte (5,916 ft.), and a few other nearby peaks, but the little lake wasn’t too impressive.  Looked like a pond from here.

Badger Butte (L) and Gunsight Butte (R) with Badger Lake between them. Photo looks SW.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Badger Butte (far L), Badger Lake (L), and Gunsight Butte (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

Yes, yes!  But none of that matters, SPHP!  What about the real reason for coming to Lookout Mountain?

I was getting to that, Loopster.

Taking your sweet time about it, SPHP!

Sometimes it’s good to save the best for last, Loop.

Well, there’s some real icing on this cake, SPHP!  Time for dessert.  If this view of Mount Hood (11,239 ft.) isn’t impressive, I don’t know what is!

Ahh, yes!  Off to the WNW, only slightly marred by smoke, was a grand view of Oregon’s state high point, the mighty volcano, Mount Hood!

Mount Hood (R) from Lookout Mountain. Photo looks WNW.
Magnificent! Mount Hood with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in some more. Photo looks WNW.

SPHP congratulated the Carolina Dog on her successful ascent, shaking her paw, and splitting a chocolate coconut bar with her.  A chipmunk provided entertainment as it scrambled on rock formations along the S rim of the summit.  Lupe scrambled up to a neat vantage point, too.

Dingo on the rocks! Badger Butte (R), Badger Lake (far R). Photo looks S.
Mount Hood from a bit down the S slope. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone on the way to Lookout Mountain, and no one had been here when she arrived at the summit.  However, company soon appeared.  After that, a steady stream of people and dogs came and went.  Nothing major, but Loop never had the summit to herself again.

40 minutes after arriving, with half a dozen people up here, and a long way to go today, SPHP called it good.  Lupe left Lookout Mountain, but this wasn’t quite the last she’d see of that dazzling view of Mount Hood.

Heading down trail No. 458. Photo looks WNW.

Might as well do the W end of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop!  Much of it ran along the W side of Lookout Mountain where SPHP expected Lupe might have a fabulous view of Mount Hood most of the way back.

At the saddle trail junction near the little hill just W of the summit, Lupe stuck with Trail No. 458, continuing W.  This gave her the opportunity to climb the little hill, where she could gaze back at Lookout Mountain.

Heading W on Trail No. 458. Photo looks SW.
Lookout Mountain (L) from the little hill W of the saddle. Photo looks E.

Traveling along a fairly flat ridge, Trail No. 458 got Lupe out to the W edge of Lookout Mountain.  No sign of the expected junction with the W half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop.  A path that looked promising as it started N completely faded away, and couldn’t have been it.

No matter, it had been worth coming this way!  A small rock formation along the W edge provided a terrific view of Mount Hood.

From here, Trail No. 458 curved S and started steeply downhill, which didn’t seem promising at all given the lay of the land.  If SPHP had only checked the topo map, that actually was the way to go.  Lupe wasn’t far from the junction with No. 493.

But SPHP didn’t look at the map.  After admiring the exquisite view of Mount Hood, the American Dingo retreated back E along Trail No. 458 to the junction with the E half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop, then started down the way she’d come up.

At the red dirt bend, Loopster made another attempt to find the W half of the Trail No. 493 loop.  The side trail going SW that SPHP had spotted earlier on led almost immediately right to it.

As expected, the W half of the High Prairie Trail No. 493 loop followed the W edge of the mountain.  However, anticipated glorious views of Mount Hood along this route did not materialize.  For what seemed like a long way, Lupe trotted NW through dense forest.

Heading down the W half of High Prairie Loop Trail No. 493. Photo looks NW.

The trail went NW so far, and lost so much elevation, that SPHP began to worry that a turn had been missed.  However, a sign close to where the trail finally turned NE confirmed that Lupe was still on track.  Going NE, the trail was nearly level, and soon left the forest.

Lupe never did make it back to the official High Prairie trailhead.  While crossing a sunny clearing, SPHP spotted the RAV4.  Abandoning the trail, the Carolina Dog went N right to it.  (12:33 PM, 67ºF)

Near the end. Photo looks NE.

Although the fantastic view of Mount Hood had without a doubt been the highlight of Lupe’s visit to Lookout Mountain, it hadn’t really been the only view of importance.  All the smoke visible to the S had been a real concern, since the plan was to head that way, climbing more peaks along the spine of the Cascades.

As SPHP drove S, precisely as Lupe had seen from Lookout Mountain, Oregon was full of smoke.  By evening, Loopster was W of Bend, way up where she should have had a great view of Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.).  No sign of it.  The smoke was terrible!

However, for the first time in days, the wind shifted from out of the SW to NW.  Before sunset, a hazy outline of Mount Bachelor did appear.

Mount Bachelor shortly before sunset. Photo looks SW.

I don’t know, Loopster.  Going to have to get a lot better than this to make climbing any mountains around here worthwhile.  We’ll just have to see how things look in the morning.

If the smoke is still this bad, what will we do, SPHP?

Guess, we’ll just have to continue this Dingo Vacation’s never-ending quest for blue skies.  Might have to head for the coast!

A stroll along the famous Oregon coast?  That actually sounds wonderful, SPHP!

Yes, it does, Loop.  But we’ll get to the coast eventually in any case, and it would be a real shame to miss out on this next mountain.

Maybe so, but despite the smoke, Lupe hadn’t missed out today.  Not when she’d gotten to enjoy that splendid view of Mount Hood from Lookout Mountain!

Mount Hood from Lookout Mountain, Cascade Range, Oregon 8-25-21

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GPS Track by Daniel Mick (9-4-16)

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