Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 303 – Flag Mountain & Crows Nest Peak with Peakbagger Dennis Stewart (5-4-22)

5-3-22, 1:00 PM, home

Who was that on the phone, SPHP?  The fanatic again?

Yup!  He’s run into 3 feet of snow on the road to Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.), so he’s got a much longer hike ahead of him than expected.  Going to be running late.  Won’t arrive here until sometime this evening now.

The “fanatic” was Dennis Stewart, aka “Stewy”.  Neither Lupe nor SPHP knew Dennis, but that was about to change.  He was a man on a mission, many missions, actually.  Dennis’ purpose on this particular trip was to climb the 10 highest named peaks, plus the 10 highest named county high points, of both South Dakota and Nebraska.

Fanatic wasn’t an unfair label.  Dennis owned the tallest indoor climbing wall in the Midwest – 32 feet high, more than 500 square feet of surface area, with an 11 foot overhang – a feature incorporated into his private home!  At the tender age of 73, Dennis was still working on so many peakbagging lists that he knew there was no way he would ever come close to completing many of them.

No doubt about it, Loop.  Dennis is our kind of fanatic!

After reaching the Black Hills region earlier today, Dennis had already been to both Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) and White Tail Peak (6,962 ft.).  Tomorrow, Lupe and SPHP were going to join him on his quest.

At least, that was the plan.  Dennis was not only a prolific peakbagger, but a runner, too.  At one point in his life, Dennis had helped set a world record in the 2 mile relay as a member of the University of Kansas track team.  In 2019, Dennis had won the 800 meter in the Huntsman World Championship in his age category.

Worrisome, actually.

If Dennis takes off running up all the mountains tomorrow, feel free to run right along with him, Loopster.  You know me.  Not even going to try to keep up.

5-4-22, 9:24 AM, Flag Mountain – Dennis had reassuringly promised not to run up any mountains, although it would have been fine if he did.  SPHP had no intention of slowing him down.  Flag Mountain (6,937 ft.) wasn’t going to be a problem in any case.  A simple drive up.  After SPHP parked the RAV4 at the end of USFS Road No. 416, a set of stone steps was all that had to be managed to reach what was left of the old fire lookout tower up top.

The only real issue was the weather.  Although Flag Mountain normally offered sweeping views of a huge swath of territory E of the edge of the limestone plateau country, Lupe wasn’t going to get to show off her Black Hills to Dennis here today.  Foggy and snowing!

Loop and Dennis arriving at the end of USFS Road No. 416.
Heading up the stone steps.
On the summit ridge near the remnant of the fire lookout station. Photo looks E.

While Dennis searched for the survey benchmark shown on the map out along the W end of the summit ridge, Lupe got up on what was left of the lookout tower foundation wall.  Unfortunately, no hint of the usual grand view was to be seen.

Dennis searching for the survey benchmark. Photo looks W.
Looper up on the wall.

Dennis found no sign of the survey benchmark.  Loopster had been to Flag Mountain on half a dozen prior occasions.  SPHP kind of thought that she actually had seen the benchmark somewhere up here before, but couldn’t find it, either.

Stewy had a routine he went through at each mountain he visited.  It was interesting to see how he operated.  Verbal notes, some of which were based on his phone’s GPS, were taken by speaking into a portable recorder.  Date, time, distance traveled, elevation gain, exact location and elevation, weather and route conditions, what views were present, and anything else Dennis felt might be of interest were all mentioned.  This data would eventually serve as the basis of written records and a trip report which he would post online.

Since he usually traveled alone, Dennis also had a separate camera and tripod he could use to take a decent selfie at each summit.

Lupe and Stewy on Flag Mountain, their first Black Hills summit together.

Given the weather, there wasn’t much reason to linger.  As snowflakes continued to fall, everyone headed back down to the RAV4.

Down by the RAV4 again. Photo looks SW.

Since tomorrow’s forecast was much better, and Dennis had already spent the last 4 days since leaving home peakbagging, he was inclined to call it a day.  After all, why climb mountains in this soup, and not get to see much of anything?  In the meantime, he could relax in comfort while catching up on some of his record-keeping.

Made perfect sense, except for two things.  The next peak on Dennis’ list was Crows Nest Peak (7,048 ft.).  Although not all that far from Flag Mountain, Crows Nest wasn’t anywhere near the other Black Hills peaks Dennis still needed to tag.  A quick visit to Crows Nest while in the area made sense from the standpoint of efficiency alone.

Furthermore, Dennis wouldn’t miss out on a thing by making the jaunt up Crows Nest today.  At over 7,000 feet, Crows Nest Peak was certainly among the highest points of the entire Black Hills range, but incredibly misleadingly named.  The surrounding territory was gently rolling and mostly forested.  No distant views of, or from, the summit even on the best of days.

Lupe’s local expert advice was to climb Crows Nest today.  Stewy was willing to give it a shot.

5-4-22, 10:23 AM, Boles Canyon Road and USFS Road No. 117.5K – Lupe was happy!  She sniffed around while Dennis finished getting ready.  Although remote Crows Nest Peak was a favorite place, the Carolina Dog hadn’t been here since the day of her Mighty Dingo Missile Launch nearly 4 years ago.  This time, Loop was looking forward to an easy, and less painful, mile long romp up to the red dirt pond near the summit.

USFS Road 117.5K from Boles Canyon Road. Photo looks N.

A faint road took off to the SE through open territory from here.  Within just a few minutes, Dennis was ready to go.  Lupe, Stewy, and SPHP set off along the faint road, heading for the trees.

The faint road (Center beyond Lupe) serving as the start of the route to Crows Nest Peak. Photo looks SE.
Stewy and Lupe about to set out. Photo looks SE.

Upon reaching the forest, the faint road merged into USFS Road No. 266.  After passing through a gate in a barbed wire fence, the steepest part of the trek was ahead.  Nothing too difficult, culminating in a snowy stretch near the top.

On USFS Road No. 266, looking back toward Boles Canyon Road. Photo looks NW.
On the snowy stretch. Photo looks SE.
Getting near the top. Photo looks SE.

The snowy stretch ended and the road flattened out, becoming a sloppy mess as Lupe entered a clearing that had been logged off years ago.  No. 266 began angling E across the clearing.  Before long, it would lead to a side spur that went N up to the red dirt pond near the Crows Nest Peak summit, but there was little benefit to traipsing through the mud.

Abandoning the road, everyone headed NE, cutting across the clearing.  Lupe was soon in an aspen forest, hopping over deadfall and winding around bushes, as she worked her way up a slope.

In the clearing where No. 266 leveled out. Photo looks E.
Among the aspens.

As the terrain flattened out again, Lupe reached the spur that came up from No. 266.  The red dirt pond was just around the next bend.

Dennis and Loop across the red dirt pond. Photo looks SW.

The Crows Nest Peak survey benchmark was only 300 feet E of the pond, tucked away deeper into the forest.  Looper led Dennis right to it.  The surrounding terrain was so flat that, as far as could be determined, this really was the mighty true summit of Crows Nest Peak (7,048 ft.).

Dennis and Lupe on the death-defying summit of Crows Nest Peak! Survey benchmark in front of Lupe. Photo looks ESE.
The “Crow 1912” survey benchmark.

While Dennis set about documenting the ascent, SPHP noticed a wooden post roughly 50 feet E of the survey marker.  Going over to check it out, Lupe discovered directional survey marker No. 2 only a few feet away.

Stewy setting up for a selfie.
Photographing the survey benchmark.
The “Crow No. 2 1912” directional marker.

Having found the No. 2 directional marker, before departing an effort was made to locate the No. 1 marker.  Lupe, Stewy, and SPHP fanned out through the forest.  However, a 5 or 10 minute search yielded no results.

Well, Dennis was satisfied.  He’d done what he needed to do here.  Soon everyone was traipsing back past the red dirt pond again.

This was it for the day.  Not much effort had been required, but it had been a pleasant introductory outing with Stewy.  Lupe and SPHP had very much enjoyed being back in the limestone plateau country again.

About to head down USFS Road No. 266. Photo looks NW.
Near the end, with the RAV4 in sight. Photo looks NNW.

And the good news, of course, was that Expedition No. 303 was merely a warm-up for more ambitious adventures with Stewy tomorrow!

With Dennis “Stewy” Stewart on Crows Nest Peak, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-4-22

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Paulina Peak, Columbia Plateau, Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon (8-27-21)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

7:30 AM, Cascade Lakes Highway

Elk Lake!  Campground and a beach.  Want to try it, Loop?

Elk?  You mean giant deers, SPHP?

Oh, yeah!  What was I thinking?  Giant Deers Lake, Looper!

Yes, then!  Giant Deers Lake sounds fabulous!  Let’s go there, SPHP!

SPHP made the turn.  Great choice!  Giant Deers Lake was fabulous!  No giant deers in sight at the moment, but there were squirrels in the pines.  Lupe was happy with that.  Colorful sailboats and catamarans were lined up along the water’s edge, and across the lake were terrific views of both Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.) and South Sister (10,358 ft.).

Mount Bachelor (L) from Giant Deers Lake. Photo looks E.
South Sister (Center). Photo looks N.

Lupe had climbed South Sister only yesterday, so the plan was for a rest and repositioning day today.  Beyond that, though, nothing was set in stone.  SPHP wasn’t even sure if the American Dingo should stay in the Cascades, or head for the coast hoping to escape the wildfire smoke that always seemed to be hanging around.

No need to decide quite yet.  The trip journal was way behind.  SPHP could work on it right here while enjoying the lovely views.

Some varmint ran under the RAV4.  Lupe was thoroughly entertained, watching and waiting for it to emerge for hours.  Turned out that Giant Deers Lake was shallow and warm.  SPHP enjoyed a refreshing swim.  Progress was made on the trip journal, but by mid-afternoon SPHP was sick of that.

Giant Deers Lake had been lovely, but decision time now.  Where to?

Kind of a risky choice, Looper, but I’ve been thinking.

Thinking?  That is fraught with danger, SPHP, especially when you’re the one doing it!

Uh-huh.  No, I mean I’ve been thinking about where we should go next, feisty Dingo!  Could maybe do Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.) yet this evening.  Would leave us well within striking distance of Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) tomorrow, which is a big climb that we don’t have time for today.  Might be our only chance to hit Paulina before heading to the coast.

Sounds like a plan, SPHP!  But what’s so risky about it?

Just that Paulina Peak is off by its lonesome out on the Columbia Plateau E of the Cascades.  Might be a lot of wildfire smoke out that way.  Could turn out to be a complete waste of time and fuel.

As long as this drought holds, isn’t that always going to be the case on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP?  Might as well try it!

The Newberry Volcanic National Monument entrance station was closed when Looper arrived.  A sign said visitors should check in at the visitor center.  OK, fine.  However, the visitor center also turned out to be closed.  Huh.  Oh, well!

A R turn onto the road that goes to the Paulina Peak lookout was only a short distance beyond the visitor center.  Could have, but SPHP didn’t drive all the way to it, parking instead less than a mile up the road at the Paulina Peak trailhead.  Lupe would have more fun exploring Crater Rim Trail No. 57 the rest of the way.

Start of Crater Rim Trail No. 57.

5:05 PM, 68ºF, Paulina Peak trailhead – The trailhead was vacant, but within minutes, a pickup with enormous knobby tires pulled in.  A guy and a brown dog leapt out.  Heading straight for the Crater Rim trail, they immediately vanished into the forest.

Lupe waited for SPHP before she was on her way, as well.

Heading ESE through the forest, Crater Rim Trail No. 57 started out flat or climbing slowly.  Not much to see except trees, which didn’t bother the American Dingo in the least, as she kept a sharp eye and keen nose out for squirrels.  Occasional blue diamonds marked the route.

Setting out on Crater Rim Trail No. 57. Photo looks SE.
Near a blue diamond.

After 0.33 mile, the trail turned S, climbing more rapidly near an edge.  Lupe caught glimpses of cliffs high on Paulina Peak’s N face.  However, she lost sight of them when the trail veered SW.  Ahead, a long straight stretch rose steeply through the forest.  Actually, it wasn’t that bad, but sure felt steep after yesterday’s workout on South Sister!

On the long straight stretch. Photo looks SW.

The trail eventually curved S, then E, climbing more slowly again.  Lupe reached a much better viewpoint where the same cliffs were visible.

Cliffs along the N side of Paulina Peak. Photo looks ESE.

For a little way, the trail trended SE near big drop-offs, or behind a low ridge of sandy soil that ran along them.  Down in the Newberry Caldera, Paulina Lake was sometimes visible off to the N.

Behind the sandy bank (L). Photo looks SE.
SE end of Paulina Lake. Photo looks NE.

Crater Rim Trail No. 57 made a second foray SW, but this stretch wasn’t as long or as steep as the earlier one had been.  The trail turned E again.

On another foray SW, away from the crater rim. Photo looks SW.

Loop was somewhere N of Paulina Peak’s lower W summit, when the guy and the brown dog appeared again, heading this way.  Lupe got to meet Daisy.  Slender and spry, Daisy was 12 years old, and still climbing mountains!  She’d already been to the top of Paulina Peak.

Daisy and Lupe.

After bidding Daisy adieu, wishing her happy trails, Lupe kept going.  Displays began to appear about disappearing whitebark pine forests.  The placards said whitebark pines were dominant on Paulina Peak, but increasingly rare throughout much of their former range.

As Loop continued up the mountain, it seemed that the displays were in the wrong order.  SPHP got an education on the plight of the whitebark pines in reverse.  Meanwhile, Lupe came to more viewpoints.

Saving Whitebark Pine.
Paulina Lake. Photo looks NNE.
Among the whitebark pines.
Getting close to the top (R)? East Lake (L). Photo looks NE.
Ancient survivors.

By now, Lupe was already quite high on the mountain.  Climbing more slowly again, Crater Rim Trail No. 57 continued E near the N edge.  A high flat ridge jutting out to the N turned out not to be the summit.  The trail turned SE.  A clearing was on the R (S), when Loopster reached a junction with Paulina Peak Trail No. 51.

Signage at the junction with Paulina Peak Trail No. 51.

Only 0.25 mile to the summit!  Abandoning Crater Rim Trail No. 57, which veered off to the SW here, Lupe continued SE on Trail No. 51.  Whitebark pine displays appeared at regular intervals.

Upper Watershed Guardians
Effect of Climate Change
Clark’s Nutcracker – Whitebark’s Best Friend
White Pine Blister Rust Threat

Views N of Paulina Peak kept improving.  In addition to Paulina Lake, East Lake could now be seen down in the Newberry Caldera, too, along with the lower end of the Big Obsidian Flow.

Paulina Lake (L). East Lake (R) beyond the Big Obsidian Flow (R). Photo looks NE.

Near the end, Lupe could see a railing along the upper edge of the next cliff to the SE.  Two more whitebark pine displays were along the final short, steep stretch of Trail No. 51.

Almost there! The lookout parking lot is up on the cliff ahead. Photo looks SE.
Whitebark Alert: Mountain Pine Beetle Invasion
Disappearing Whitebark Pine

6:49 PM, 63ºF, Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.) –  Shadows were lengthening when Lupe arrived at a parking lot.  Several vehicles and half a dozen people were here.  The big views were toward the N and NW, but Lupe’s first order of business was to tag Paulina Peak’s true summit, a collection of boulders capping a 20 foot high hill just W of the parking lot.

The true summit was easy to identify.  One big rock in particular was a good foot higher than any of the others.  Not a roomy perch, but Lupe easily scrambled up there.

Paulina Peak’s summit from the parking lot. Photo looks SW.
Heading up to tag the true summit. Paulina Lake (L), East Lake (R). Photo looks NNE.
Paulina Peak summit. Photo looks WSW.
On the highest rock. Photo looks W.
A less glarey view.

Paulina Peak was easy, SPHP!  Glad we did this!

Me too, Loop!  Except that now I’m all depressed about whitebark pines.

And I’ll be all depressed, too, if you forgot to bring a chocolate coconut bar again, SPHP.  Please tell me that you remembered to bring one!

Fear not!  Not going to fail you twice in a row, Looper!  Got one in the pack.  Shall we find a spot to split it?

More vehicles and people were arriving.  Paulina Peak was sort of busy.  A very short use trail ran from the NE end of the parking lot over to a small, exposed viewpoint without a railing where both lakes and more of the Big Obsidian Flow were in sight.

Hoping to find a quiet spot to split the chocolate coconut bar, Lupe and SPHP arrived at this viewpoint moments after a terrible tragedy struck a family with children.  Oblivious to the danger, an angry young girl flung her stuffed animal in midst of a tantrum.  In shock and horror, she then burst into tears, weeping bitterly after seeing it disappear over the cliff.

Devastated, the girl and her family quickly departed, before some other unforeseen evil could strike.  Seeing SPHP splitting the chocolate coconut bar with Lupe, a much calmer girl asked SPHP if she could give Lupe a piece?  Her mother was dubious, but let her do so.  Both were surprised by the polite and dainty manner in which the Carolina Dog took it from the girl’s fingers, prior to making short work of it.

Mom was happy!  The girl was happy!  Even SPHP was happy.  Lupe licked her chops.

Wow!  SPHP, did you notice how happy they were just because I ate a piece of chocolate coconut bar?

Yup.  The girl thought feeding you was fun.

Oh, it is fun, SPHP!  I certainly enjoyed it!  Got any more chocolate coconut bars?  We could make money doing this!  You provide chocolate coconut bars (at a decent profit, of course!) to anyone who wants to feed a Carolina Dog, and I’ll eat them.  Why, we could get rich doing this!

And you could be the size of 3 normal Carolina Dogs, and die of chocolate coconut bar poisoning, too!

Along the N rim, heading over to the Big Obsidian Flow viewpoint. Photo looks NE.
Central Pumice Cone (7,084 ft.) (Center), Paulina Lake (L). Big Obsidian Flow and East Lake (R). Photo looks NNE.
East Lake (L) and Big Obsidian Flow (foreground). Photo looks NE.

SPHP’s earlier fears that Paulina Peak might be lost in a cloud of thick smoke from wildfires had been partially correct.  Especially bad toward the horizons, smoke was visible in all directions, yet the air seemed quite a bit clearer locally.  Lupe checked out the rest of the summit region.

A hazy plain beyond low forested hills was about all there was to see to the S or E, and trees hid the views to the W.  Close to where the road came up, there was an outhouse, and a Paulina Peak Overlook sign.

Best view to the S or E.
By the Paulina Peak sign.

Half an hour before sunset, a small crowd eagerly awaited the big event along the N rim of the lookout.  Evidently, sunset from Paulina Peak was a big deal.  Half a dozen people had fancy, expensive cameras with huge lenses and tripods.  Best views locally were of Paulina and East Lakes plus the Big Obsidian Flow, but that wasn’t what they were here for.

A clear day would provided a terrific view of the Cascade Range.  Off to the NW, Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft), South Sister (10,358 ft.), Middle Sister (10,047 ft.), and North Sister (10,085 ft.) were all lined up.  And way off to the N, Mount Hood (11,239 ft.) stood barely detectable in the smoke on the edge of vision.

Unfortunately, drifting in from the W, the smoke seemed to be getting worse.  As the sun sank toward the murk, Lupe visited various vantage points for scenic effect.

From near the true summit L to R on the L: Mount Bachelor, South Sister, Middle Sister, and North Sister. Mount Hood barely detectable (R). Photo looks NNW.
Down at the parking lot. Paulina Lake (R). Photo looks N.
Mount Bachelor (L), South Sister (Center). Photo looks NW.

I don’t know, Loop!  Not a cloud in the sky, and smoky.  Too bad, but I think everyone is waiting in vain tonight.  Doubt there’s going to be much of a sunset at all.  Want to head back while we’ve still got some light?

Height of the evening’s glory. Mount Bachelor (L) and The Three Sisters (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Another big day tomorrow, SPHP?  Like South Sister was?

Hope so, Loop!  Depends on the smoke.  Might just drive to the coast.

Well, I suppose we may as well head back then.

15 minutes before sunset, while the crowd still waited, Lupe took a final look at South Sister, where she’d been only yesterday.  The Carolina Dog then started back down to Crater Rim Trail No. 57, where twilight faded among the ancient whitebark pines of Paulina Peak.  (8:29 PM, 61ºF)

Paulina Peak, Columbia Plateau, Newberry Volcanic Monument, Oregon 8-27-21

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GPS Track by T J Kodras (8-16-21)

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