8:40 AM, USFS Road No. 297 – Oh, it was on, and Lupe was excited! After a quick weather-shortened introductory jaunt with new friend Dennis Stewart out to a couple of peaks of the limestone plateau country yesterday, the weather was much improved. “Stewy” was ready to hit it hard today. Time permitting, 7 of the 14 highest named peaks in South Dakota were on his agenda, and the American Dingo had every intention of getting high with him at each one.
With that many peaks to visit, even though none of them were all that hard to get to, there wasn’t going to be a lot of time for dilly-dallying. Within minutes of when SPHP parked the RAV4 at a wide spot along USFS Road No. 297, everyone was ready.
Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) was first. Although actually the lowest peak Dennis would be climbing today, it was the steepest and involved the most elevation gain from the starting point, a little over 900 feet.
An old jeep trail going W from No. 297 got things off to an easy start. Less than 100 feet of elevation gain led to USFS Road No. 297.3F, which wasn’t much help, since 3F ran almost horizontally N/S along the E slope instead of toward the summit. Crossing the road to head straight up the mountain, No. 297.3F was encountered a second time 200 feet higher, but the situation was no different here.
After crossing No. 297.3F the second time, that was it for roads. The rest of the way up was merely a fairly steep trudge higher. A little deadfall and a few scattered boulders to contend with, but otherwise a romp through open pine forest.
The last 100+ feet of elevation gain was steepest. Dennis preferred to go directly up the E face. However, Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) has two summits, the S one being the true summit. Looper hadn’t been here in nearly 5 years, but SPHP was pretty certain that by angling NW toward the saddle between the two summits, the Carolina Dog could pick up a use trail that would get her to the top.
A little longer, but the Lazy Dingo route worked out perfectly. While Dennis proved his mettle against the mountain, Lupe came to a nicely rounded clearing up at the saddle, easily sniffed out the use trail, and was there in time to greet Dennis as he reached the summit.
9:34 AM, Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) – The true summit was a rock tucked in at the base of a small birch tree that was slightly higher than others nearby. After the required summit shot, a short rest break was in order. Lupe shared a chocolate coconut bar with SPHP, and drank some water. Dennis opened a can of cashews, and enjoyed a few while sitting on a big rock, offering some cashews to SPHP, too.
Getting to be a beautiful day! Partly cloudy with blue sky and sunshine. As everyone relaxed, the big view was toward the SE, where several of the highest peaks in South Dakota were visible on the horizon.
Dennis had already been to Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), South Dakota’s high point, many years ago back when it was still officially Harney Peak, and wouldn’t be returning on this trip. SPHP pointed out two others, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) and Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.), that were on his current itinerary.
The view NW was of more immediate interest. Dennis’ next 3 objectives, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.), Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) and Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.) were in sight. In fact, all of the other peaks Dennis intended to climb today were visible from Medicine Mountain, since Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) was also in view off to the SSW.
The views were sweet, and Medicine Mountain had been a decent climb, but with so much left to do today, less than half an hour went by before it was already Onward, puppy ho! time. One mountain down, six to go!
10:49 AM, junction of Sixmile Road and USFS Road No. 297.3O – Next up, Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.)! Crossing Sixmile Road, Lupe looked for a spot where an old road once headed N. A little deadfall to contend with, but this open lane made what would otherwise have been an annoying, and needlessly difficult task contending with a thick forest of young pines, a simple one.
Before long, the lane opened onto a big clearing. At the far end, another lane was visible. Following these lanes was the secret to getting to the summit of Copper Mountain without undue aggravation.
According to the topo map, Copper Mountain’s summit was 0.33 mile due N of where the RAV4 was parked. However, as everyone was getting close to that region, where it was impossible to see much of anything due to all the young pines, SPHP surprised Dennis by insisting that the true summit was actually well off to the E near a line of cliffs.
Trusting the map, Stewy was skeptical to say the least. However, since there was nothing to be seen here, and SPHP assured him that not only was the true summit E, but that the best views by far were available from the cliffs over that way, Dennis went along with the detour.
By now, the wide open lanes were gone, but it was still possible to follow narrower ones through the trees until the terrain began to rise. Soon the forest began opening up as the ground became rockier.
Upon reaching the limestone platform along the E edge of the mountain, Dennis set his GPS unit on what appeared to be the highest rock, and took a reading. After wavering around, it settled in at about 6,946 feet.
After gathering this data point, everyone headed SE to the cliffs at end of the platform where the big views were. A cairn Looper hadn’t seen here before, now sat on the highest rocks along the S edge.
Dennis didn’t bother with another GPS reading, since it seemed unlikely to yield a significantly different result. Instead, several minutes were spent exploring the rocks along the cliff edge while taking in the views. Medicine Mountain stood out 2.25 miles SE, with some of Dennis’ higher objectives well beyond it in the distance.
Time to head back! Not to the RAV4, but to the region shown on the topo map as Copper Mountain’s summit. Returning to the rock where Dennis had taken the elevation reading, everyone then went WNW, first down a slope, then gradually higher through deadfall and dense young pines tall enough to hide what was ahead.
The terrain flattened out. Dennis reported that, according to the map, this was Copper Mountain’s summit. Laying the GPS unit on a log about a foot above the ground, another elevation reading was taken. In just a moment it would be clear whether SPHP or the topo map was correct about the location of Copper Mountain’s true summit. After bouncing around a bit, the reading settled out at 6,947 ft.
One foot higher than the rock back E! Except that here the GPS unit was a foot above the ground, resting on the log instead of a rock. Within the limits of the GPS unit’s accuracy, it was a tie.
Hmm. Well, so be it. There were no views here at the W summit except of the thick stand of pines in all directions. SPHP didn’t even bother to take a photo, although Stewy did.
12:11 PM – Less than a mile W of where the RAV4 had been parked near Copper Mountain, SPHP turned S off Sixmile Road onto USFS Road No. 693. 0.125 mile, and No. 693 turned SW. After yesterday’s precipitation, the road was pretty soft here, with a couple of ruts in it.
SPHP parked the RAV4. The top of Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) was only 0.4 mile SE. Somewhat more than that following the road, but still within easy reach.
After a jog to the W, the road turned SE, climbing gradually all the time. Halfway to the summit, No. 693 topped out and curved SW toward Long Draw. Abandoning the road, Lupe traveled ESE through a gently sloping field toward a small pillar of limestone near the trees. Coming to a fence a little beyond the pillar, she ducked under it, then followed it S.
SPHP’s intention had originally been to go farther E in order to approach Odakota’s summit ridge near the NE end, which past experience had shown to be the easiest route up. The problem coming up from the SW had always been that the barbed wire fence, which ran right by the SW end of the ridge, was broken down and dangerous due to a huge jumble of deadfall that had collapsed upon it.
However, Dennis had left USFS Road No. 693 before SPHP, getting a head start following a jeep trail trail toward the SW end of the summit ridge. Hoping to intercept him, Lupe continued S along the fence all the way to the end of the ridge. Amazingly, since the last time the American Dingo was here more than 4.5 years ago, someone had removed the deadfall and repaired the fence.
Stewy had already made his way up to the summit. A 20 foot climb got Lupe up onto the flat ridge, which was still full of deadfall. Going 200 feet NE, Loop found Dennis where a tall, skinny white rock cairn had once stood. The white rocks were still here, but now all tumbled over. Dennis was busily setting up his tripod and resurrecting the cairn in preparation for his traditional summit selfie.
12:35 PM, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) – Poor Odakota Mountain! South Dakota’s second highest peak was a mess. Surviving pines and a crop of new ones grew among what remained of a forest devastated by pine bark beetles 10 years ago. No views from the cairn, although both Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) and a pond down by the old Boy Scout camp could be seen to the S from a little farther SW along the summit ridge.
Certainly not much up here to make Dennis want to hang around. After getting a group selfie shot, he packed up his camera and tripod, and took the easy way down off the NE end of the ridge. Meanwhile, Lupe and SPHP went to take a quick look at the view of Bear Mountain and the Boy Scout pond. It was actually a little better than the last time Loop had been here, since more trees had fallen over.
Turning around to leave and catch up with Dennis, SPHP saw something Lupe had never noticed on Odakota Mountain before. Back in the trees, only 25 feet from where Stewy had rebuilt the cairn, there was a sign.
Going over to check it out, the sign said “Odakota Mountain High Point 7,198 feet”. Below it, a round marker set in concrete was stamped “Odakota High Point”. There was also another white rock cairn.
The sign must have been here a while. Some of the paint was peeling. Odd that Lupe had never seen it before, but maybe a few years out in the weather was sufficient to get the peeling process underway? This spot really wasn’t discernably higher than where the first cairn was, or most of Odakota’s summit ridge, but the sign and marker were exactly the sort of thing Dennis would be interested in.
SPHP started yelling. Fortunately, Dennis hadn’t gotten too far away yet.
1:35 PM, junction of Sixmile Road and a faint road – Started out looking like the right spot, but the farther up the faint road Lupe went, the less familiar it all seemed. SPHP must not have driven far enough W to get to Windmill Draw. This was the wrong place. Instead of going a long way up a gentle grassy valley, the faint road merged into an unmarked USFS road near the trees.
It didn’t help when the USFS road played out shortly thereafter. SPHP hadn’t even brought a topo map.
Well, no matter. Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) had to be less than a couple of miles away. Lupe would find it! To SPHP’s recollection, all she had to do was find the E edge of the limestone plateau and follow it N.
Going through open forest, the terrain kept rising. Eventually there was a lot of deadfall. The E edge of the limestone plateau didn’t materialize. Lupe had never come this way before. Consulting his GPS, Dennis led the way in a direction that seemed 90 degrees off kilter to SPHP.
Lupe finally reached a flat region up on a broad ridge. There was a ton of deadfall up here. A higher hill to the N didn’t look right. None of the terrain looked right. Was this the edge of the limestone plateau? SPHP was expecting a much sharper drop-off, something more cliff-like. No sign of the limestone pillar Lupe used to get up on over by the hill.
Frequently consulting his GPS, Dennis led the way along what appeared to be the only plausible route. Circling along the upper W slope of a big bowl, Lupe leapt over one fallen log after another. An unfamiliar road finally provided relief, leading to a gate near a large, flat clearing.
Still following his GPS, Dennis crossed the clearing. Continuing a little way into the forest, he arrived at a cairn.
2:26 PM – Lupe had never seen a cairn on Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) before, but again, it had been more than 4.5 years since she’d been here. Furthermore, this boring spot in the forest did resemble the featureless region SPHP recalled as being all that could be found in the way of a high point where the summit was supposed to be.
As soon as Stewy had his summit selfies, it would be easy to figure out if this was the same place Lupe had been to several times before. If it was, the limestone pillar she used to get up on had to be along the edge of the mountain somewhere near the clearing.
Summit shots taken, everyone headed back there.
Oh, yeah! This was the right place, alright. Going over to the edge of the clearing, slightly down the slope beyond it, there was Lupe’s pillar.
After the long, tedious bushwhack through the trackless deadfall-laden forest, and disappointing cairn in the middle of nowhere buried in trees summit, Dennis brightened immediately at the sight of the big sweeping view to the E and SE, and that taunting limestone pillar. If a Carolina Dog could do it, Stewy could, too! The peakbagger in him took over.
SPHP wasn’t getting up there, but sent a personal representative. Since Lupe hadn’t brought her Dingo wings, SPHP had to give her a boost.
A short break was taken before starting back to the RAV4. Dennis was in the habit of texting a photo to family and friends from each summit, and sent out the one of him standing on the pillar. He often got quick, but brief responses. In this case, the most common response was “jump”!
SPHP had to laugh. Always nice to know you’re loved.
4:26 PM – Four down, three to go! Unfortunately, Green Mountain had taken up more time than expected, in part due to SPHP’s error in not parking far enough W at the start of Windmill Draw. Would have been much more of a road hike from there, instead of a bushwhack through deadfall-laden forest.
Couldn’t be helped. Done is done. Happily, Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.), the next objective, was a mere drive-up to a lookout tower. Shortly after turning onto USFS Road No. 293, SPHP was astonished by the amount of logging that had gone on since Lupe had last been here.
In fact, it was still ongoing. 0.5 mile from the summit, a log truck being actively loaded completely blocked the road. Apparently, this was going to take a while. Pulling off the road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Everyone leapt out. After circling past the log truck, the road hike began.
Lupe had once paid a visit to the ranger at the top of the tower. On a clear day, it was possible to see Laramie Peak (10,272 ft.) in Wyoming. Unfortunately, the tower wasn’t open for the season yet. A sign said it was closed to the public.
A survey benchmark and another sign showing the elevation were at the base of the tower, but there wasn’t a view from here without actually climbing the tower. However, Lupe knew there was a nice view from a small limestone outcropping a short distance SE.
5:58 PM, Needles Highway No. 87, Little Devils Tower trailhead – Upon reaching the RAV4 after Bear Mountain, Dennis faced a choice. 5 of 7 complete, but delays had chewed up enough time so that climbing both remaining peaks wasn’t going to be possible unless Dennis wanted to be out after dark, which he didn’t.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) or Little Devils Tower (6,920 ft.)? SPHP spoke of the differences in what would be involved, since the nature of the routes was so different. Either one had fabulous views.
Really wasn’t a monumental decision. Dennis could climb whichever peak he didn’t get to today tomorrow. In the end, Stewy chose Little Devils Tower as his last summit with Lupe.
Sweet! A great choice! (Both would have been.) 700 feet of elevation gain along a maintained trail that went past scenic granite formations, followed by a fun scramble to the top.
Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 was nearly level as it started up a valley. Lupe was soon passing the first granite formations. The views improved steadily as the trail gradually steepened.
After more than a mile, Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 topped out on a ridge near the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). From here, a spur trail split off to the L, heading N. Taking this spur, Little Devils Tower’s massive granite summit quickly came into view.
At first, the spur trail was level, or nearly so, but as Lupe got close to the granite, it turned NE and began to climb.
The spur trail soon topped out at a high spot tucked between huge rock walls. However, this wasn’t the end. Blue arrows painted on the rocks marked the route from here, which now turned NW through a narrow slot in the granite. The first part of the slot was so steep that Loopster needed a boost from SPHP to get up to where she could continue under her own power.
Above the slot, minor variations in the route were possible. All involved scrambling up the granite. A little exposure in spots, but not much. The route wound along the granite to a final brief push higher.
6:55 PM, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) – Suddenly, Lupe was there! The summit region was a roomy collection of large granite outcroppings and boulders that didn’t vary an awful lot in elevation. There was even a flat area of packed dirt with a bit of vegetation.
The views were incredible! Little Devils Tower is right in the heart of the most rugged part of the Black Hills. While Dennis climbed up onto the highest boulder to tag the true summit, Loopster had a look around. Highlights included Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) a little more than a mile NNE, and the magnificent Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) only 0.25 mile SE.
Dennis made it up onto the true summit boulder. Lupe needed another boost from SPHP to join him.
6 of 7 complete, but Little Devils Tower was definitely going to be it. The sun was already low. Sylvan Hill wasn’t happening today.
That was alright. Kind of took the pressure off. Lupe, Dennis, and SPHP could all linger for a while in the beautiful evening light.
Over all too soon! Before long, Stewy was at the end of the scramble lower, about to descend from the slot to the spur trail.
So, Little Devils Tower was a happy ending to a fabulous day! Dennis pronounced it easily his favorite peak in the Black Hills. Sometime he was going to have to bring his wife, Geri, up here.
Lupe hopes to welcome her to the beautiful Black Hills on that great day.
Note: Dennis did climb Sylvan Hill the next day before heading to Nebraska to continue his peakbagging adventures. Among his greatest goals are (1) climb the 10 highest named peaks in all of the 48 contiguous US states, (2) climb the 10 highest named county high points in each state, (3) visit every state park with his wife, Geri, (4) float the length of rivers in all states that have a river of the same name. At 73, he realizes these are tall orders.
Before departing, Dennis gave Lupe and SPHP an autographed copy of his book 23 Nights Working for the US Treasury Department, which tells of his experiences working for the US government’s most feared agency, the IRS.
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