West Butte of the Sweetgrass Hills, Montana (8-17-20)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-16-20, early morning, W Fork of the Bitterroot River – Lupe streaked by, a newly-prized stick clenched in her teeth, dodging, weaving, returning again and again, defying SPHP to catch her while showing off just how fast and agile she was.

At least someone’s recovered from Trapper Peak (10,157 ft.)!

Oh, c’mon!  Aren’t you even going to try to catch me, SPHP?

Sure!  As soon as my paws aren’t sore.  Won’t win then, either, but at least I’ll be able to move.  Till then, that fabulous stick is all yours, Loopster!

Clearly disappointed, perhaps disgusted, the Carolina Dog dropped the stick.

Phooey!  You’re no fun, SPHP!  When are your paws going to toughen up?  You’re always whining about them these days.

As soon as these boots are broken in, I’ll be fine again.

Think those boots are breaking in your paws in instead.

Heh.  It’s been a slow process, that’s for sure.  C’mon, I’m going to soak my paws in the river for a little bit before we head out.  Numb sounds good.  Maybe that squirrel that was here yesterday is still around?

The mere mention of “squirrel” and Lupe was racing off to check out those trees over by the river access point.  Sadly, no luck.  The squirrel must have been sleeping in.  The river was beautiful, though, and the soaking did SPHP’s paws a lot of good.  Happily, those paws didn’t look nearly as bad as they’d felt.

8-16-20, 10:12 AM, Hwy 200, Clearwater River

Montana sure has a lot of beautiful rivers, doesn’t it, SPHP?

This part certainly does, Loop!  Getting to be big fans of all these nice river access points, aren’t we?

They do help break up the trip!  By the way, where are we going, anyway?

West Butte (6,983 ft.) of the Sweetgrass Hills, Looper!  Remember those big hills we always see off in the distance E of I-15 when we’re on the way to Canada?

The ones you’re always wondering whether they are in the United States or Canada?

Yup.  Those hills.  Well, it turns out they are in the US.  West Butte is the highest one, so guess what, Lucky Dingo?  You’re going to get to climb it, if we can figure out the access situation.

Are we going to Canada, too?

Unfortunately, no.  Not this year.  Crying shame, but the border is closed.  West Butte is so close to Canada, though, that you’re going to get to see it!

Not quite the same, SPHP.

I know.  Not the same at all.  Sorry ’bout that, but it’s the best we can do in the Year of Perfect Vision.

Enjoying a romp along the Clearwater River.

Montana not only had lovely rivers with great access points to explore, but dinosaurs, too!  In Choteau, Lupe visited a snazzy pink one.

Dingoes & Dinosaurs! What more could you want?

3:20 PM, Hwy 343 at Oilmont – Coming down out of the big mountains had been a mistake.  Hotter ‘n blazes on the prairie!  Lupe parted leaping billows of the Grasshopper Sea as she sniffed her way up a little rise at the E end of what more or less amounted to the ghost town of Oilmont.

Miles across the parched golden fields of August, the Sweetgrass Hills were in sight, stretched out in 3 isolated groups like American sentries guarding against unexpected invasion from Canada.

West Butte (6983 ft.) was closest to both Oilmont and Canada, and had the support of lower hills to the NW.  Nearly 20 miles ESE of West Butte, stood the similar, only slightly lower East Butte group containing both Mount Royal (6,914 ft.) and Mount Brown (6,958 ft.).  Between these strongholds, the lone cone of Gold Butte (6,512 ft.) held the otherwise undefended center of the line.

West Butte from Hwy 343 near Oilmont. Photo looks NE.
Gold Butte (L), Mount Brown (Center) and Mount Royal (R). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Driving E from Oilmont, the search for decent West Butte access began.  Supposed to be available from the SW.  12 miles E of I-15 came a L (N) turn off the pavement onto Suphellan Road, a good, wide gravel road.  Miles of dust, but after a few minor jogs and a couple of intersections, Lupe was getting close.

West Butte from Nine Mile Road. Photo looks NE.

By now, Suphellan Road had led into Nine Mile Road, which worked it’s way NE.  West Butte’s lower SW slopes were only 0.5 mile away when a junction was reached with Coal Mine Road.  Private property here, but further investigation revealed a little blue sign 0.1 mile E.

Bingo!  Dingo!

At the intersection of Nine Mile Road and Coal Mine Road. Photo looks NE.
Gold Butte from the N side of Coal Mine Road 0.1 mile E of the junction with Nine Mile Road. Photo looks SE.
Official public access confirmation!

Farther E, Coal Mine Road led to a private ranch.  Turning back around and exploring it W, the road dipped into a draw containing a ford of a rocky creek that was almost dry now, but might be an issue during wet weather.  Coal Mine Road continued NW, winding through some of the lower Sweetgrass Hills.  Clearly, no better access from this direction.

West Butte (R) and the Sweetgrass Hills from the WNW.

8-16-20, 5:55 PM, I-15 at Sunburst – Still 96ºF!  Full scale retreat was called for.  Luxury was on the agenda, air-conditioned luxury all night long!  The Carolina Dog sure didn’t object.  The Comfort Inn, the finest motel in Shelby, was nearly vacant with the Covid-19 panic going on.  Stretching out on the big soft bed, Lupe heaved a sigh of delight.  SPHP enjoyed a swim in the small, unoccupied pool.  Not another soul!  Sort of like Loopster and SPHP owned the joint.

Good thing, we don’t own it, Loop!  Must be losing money hand over fist, if it’s this empty during tourist season!

Star Wars!?  Change the channel, SPHP!  Maybe they’ve got Lassie or Rin Tin Tin?

8-17-20, 10:26 AM, 81ºF, SW of West Butte – SPHP parked the G6 a few hundred feet E of the junction of Nine Mile Road and Coal Mine Road.  High clouds and hazy out.  Plenty warm, but not sweltering, at least not yet.  Lupe trotted a little farther E along Coal Mine Road to the blue sign before heading out into the flat field leading to West Butte.

Starting for West Butte. Photo looks NE.

Surprisingly, thankfully, no cactus.  Looper crossed the Grasshopper Sea without encountering any.  Entering a shallow drainage, she followed it higher until she was almost at the base of West Butte’s first big grassy slope.  Leaving the drainage, up she went!

Down in the drainage. Photo looks NNE.
Warm dry day, long steep slope, and a resulting bad case of big pink tongueitis.

The long grassy slope got pretty dang steep, but the Carolina Dog kept at it.  Climbing hundreds of feet higher, she eventually reached a windswept tree that was 90% dead.

At the windswept tree. Photo looks NW.
Sweetgrass Hills W of West Butte from near the windswept tree. Photo looks NW.

Not too far above this tree the rate of climb slowed a bit.  Forests and rock fields prevalent on West Butte’s upper slopes were in sight again.  Lupe kept heading for them.

Beyond the steepest part of the climb already. Photo looks NE.
Closing in on the trees. Photo looks NNE.

Shortly before reaching the trees, Lupe came to the first rock slides.  A path crossed these rocks angling up toward the NNE.  Following this path higher, the rocks were loose and relatively small, yet still large enough to provide decent support.  For such rocky terrain, this was easy going!

On the first path below the forest. Photo looks NNE.
Crossing the first big scree slope. Photo looks NNE.
Looking back to the SSW.

The path soon led into the trees.  Overhead, the cloud cover was getting thinner.  Patches of blue sky were beginning to appear, and the day was getting warmer.  Enjoying the shade, Lupe and SPHP took a water break and a long breather.

Relaxing in the shade.

Resuming her climb, Loopster went right up the forested slope for a while, but eventually got far enough NNE to emerge from the trees again.  More paths angled up another scree slope.

Out in the open again. Photo looks N.
Looking up an unscathed scree slope the trail went by. Photo looks ENE.
Another look back. Getting higher! Photo looks SW.

The scree slopes went on and on.  Numerous paths were available to choose from.  The Carolina Dog passed through another smaller stretch of forest.  After that, she came only to scattered trees or bushes.  The higher Loop got, the rockier West Butte seemed to be.

Continuing higher. Photo looks NNE.
Near the end. Photo looks NNE.

For a long way, it was just more and more of the same sort of thing.  Lupe followed whatever path seemed handiest up the scree.  If anything, the slope of the mountain was getting steeper, but at last that changed.  As the terrain began to level out, the rocks disappeared.  Lupe reached a grassy slope.  A band of trees was off to the N, but Loop turned E heading for the summit.

Almost there! Photo looks E.

8-17-20, 1:17 PM, West Butte – The top of West Butte (6,983 ft.) was a roomy plain, flat in the center, edges rounded in all directions.  Toward the SE stood a tall, well-constructed cairn, the only significant feature up here.  A rusty can perched near the top of the cairn, and a red metal box and a plaque sat next to one another along the base.

Almost everywhere, yellow fields 2,500 feet lower stretched to murky horizons blurred by a smoky haze.  No sign at all of the mighty peaks of Glacier National Park far to the W, which might have been visible on a clear day.  Instead, the eye was drawn SE where Gold Butte (6,512 ft.), Mount Brown (6,958 ft.) and Mount Royal (6,914 ft.) were close enough to be on display.

Lupe’s first thought was to seek out the shade of the cairn.

The big view from West Butte on a hazy day! Mount Brown (far L) & Mount Royal (L). Gold Butte (R). Photo looks SE.
By the summit cairn.
Since I’m wearing a fur coat, SPHP, I’ve got dibs on the shade!

While Looper spent her time panting, SPHP opened the red metal box.  Full of registry notebooks and assorted junk.  Lots of people make it up here!  Way too many entries to read them all, although SPHP did take a look at some of them.  The last entry was only 4 days ago.  SPHP added Lupe’s name to the list.

The rusty can on top of the cairn contained a collection of small white stones.  For what conceivable purpose, SPHP couldn’t imagine unless Hansel and Gretel came up here from time to time.

The plaque was more interesting.  Placed by A. Taft, whose last ascent was over 8 years ago on 7-22-12, the plaque was entitled “You know you’re home when you see The Hills”.  Seven “Sonnemaker Homestead Children who grew up in the shadow of The Sweetgrass Hills” were listed.  All of them had been born between 1910 and 1924.

Not too likely any of them were still alive today.

Sonnemaker Homestead Children plaque.

100 years and more since most of the Sonnemaker children had been born.  A sobering thought.  Lupe’s name was on a mountain, too, far away in the Bighorns in Wyoming.  Not on a plaque, just made out of loose rocks.  Been a couple of years since Loopster had seen it.  SPHP wondered if it was still there?

Most of the cloud cover had burned away by now.  Gotta be at least 85ºF, although a 10 mph S breeze provided some relief.  SPHP had brought a White Claw raspberry-flavored spiked sparkling water in the backpack, and proceeded to drink the entire thing.  Between that and the Benadryl taken earlier to control hay fever, SPHP was soon left in a lethargic state of wooziness.  Using the backpack for a pillow, with the old Alaska cap pulled down for shade, SPHP tried to nap.

Didn’t work.  The heat was oppressive, the hard ground uncomfortable, and SPHP wasn’t really tired, just sort of drugged.  Still, SPHP laid there long enough for the Carolina Dog to start wondering what was wrong?  Lupe came over to check for some sign of life.

Still among the living, SPHP?  Or have you met your Sonnemaker?

Eh.  Not yet, Loop.  Want more water?  Bet you do!  Here, ya go!

Thanks, SPHP!  What now?

Well, I suppose we ought to take some more photos.  A shame it’s so hazy.  Montana always seems to start filling up with smoke this time of year.  Could see forever from here on a clear day.

The haze isn’t that bad, SPHP!  At least we can still see the rest of the Sweetgrass Hills.  Let’s get those photos then head back to the Comfort Inn!

Hah!  So that’s you’re plan is it?

Hotter ‘n blazes again, in case you hadn’t noticed, SPHP.

Yeah, but we’ve got another card up our sleeve for tonight, Sweet Dingo!  But c’mon, let’s finish up.

Gold Butte (Center). Photo looks SE.
Gold Butte with lots of help from the telephoto lens and hindrance from the smoke.
Mount Brown (L) and Mount Royal (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Which way is Canada, SPHP?  You said yesterday that we would see it from here.

Less than 5 miles straight N, Loopster!

Canada was out there, alright.  A featureless plain North Dakota flat.  Details, if there were any, couldn’t be made out.

Canada from West Butte. Photo looks N.

Oh, I hope Canada is what you have up your sleeve, SPHP!  We’ve had so many fabulous adventures there!

8-17-20, 2:20 PM, West Butte – The traditional summit hour had flashed by.  Lupe stood by the cairn for the last time.  Sadly, West Butte was going to be as close to Canada as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood would get this year.

Looper was happy, though!  SPHP had brought plenty of water, and West Butte had been fun.  Surely, the next time the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood did go to Canada, she would see West Butte again and remember this day.

And I’ll remember the Comfort Inn, too, SPHP!  Don’t forget that!

West Butte summit region. Photo looks WNW.
Happy Lupe on West Butte.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

The descent began.  Lupe headed back down the grassy slope on the W side of the summit.  Took only a few minutes to get back to the trails leading down the long scree slopes.  Loopster’s return route was nearly identical to the one she had taken up, although she did stray somewhat farther W after reaching the windswept 90% dead tree.

Starting down the W slope. Photo looks W.
Descending the upper scree slopes. Photo looks SW.
Approaching the forest. Photo looks SW.
Wildflowers on the lower slopes.

8-17-20, 4:39 PM, at the G6 along Coal Mine Road – Ugh!  96ºF again!  A 15 mph wind blew out of the W like a furnace.  Time to crank up the G6 and enjoy some serious AC!  After taking Nine Mile Road and Hwy 552, SPHP turned S on I-15 at Sunburst.

What a strange year!  This close to Canada, I-15 was all but vacant.  Just like the Comfort Inn, as nearly the sole users, Lupe and SPHP practically owned the road as the G6 sped S through a beastly hot haze permitting no hint of the tremendous peaks hidden to the W.

No Comfort Inn tonight!  Along Hwy 89 SE of Great Falls, came a brief stop at the Al Buck Memorial Park.  Twilight was deepening as SPHP let Looper out to cool her paws off and enjoy her traditional drink from the cold, clear spring that gushed out of the mountainside.  Then it was S again, up into the Little Belt Mountains.

9:50 PM, 62ºF, Kings Hill Pass – Comfortably cool!  The oppressive heat of the Grasshopper Sea infesting the parched yellow fields surrounding the Sweetgrass Hills was already just a memory.  Yet today’s pilgrimage in the Year of Perfect Vision to the sunny summit of West Butte, where an American Dingo had peered through the murk into the fabled, and now forbidden land of Canada would not be forgotten.

Lovely Alberta, gorgeous British Columbia, the Canadian Rockies, the mighty Yukon, misty Northwest Territories, and gleaming Alaska!  Three thousand miles N, summer was weakening, dying.  The empty tundra of the North Slope was already a land of gold awaiting the silent pristine white of winter.  Ever so far away, reds, oranges, and yellows were spreading S beneath the pale, darkening Arctic sky.

Today’s dim vision from lofty West Butte had been a mere glimpse in the direction of glories Lupe knew lay beyond.  Glories held for the moment in the mind’s eye only, but they were real, they were out there.  Someday!

Yes, someday the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood would return.

West Butte of the Sweetgrass Hills, Montana 8-17-20

West Butte access:  From I-15, take Exit 389 at Sunburst.  Head E on paved Hwy No. 552.  The pavement ends 9 miles E at a 4 way intersection with crossroad Pederson Road.  Keep going straight E, now on unsigned Nine Mile Road, which is good gravel.  4 miles from this intersection, turn N (L) at a “T” intersection with Suphellan Road.  Wind N and E another 4 miles (still on Nine Mile Road) to the junction with Coal Mine Road.  Public access is 0.1 mile E at the blue sign on the N (L) side of Coal Mine Road.  Good pavement/gravel all the way.  Any vehicle can do this with ease.

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Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana (8-15-20)

Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-14-20, Daybreak, 32ºF, Upper Taylor Fork trailhead, Madison Range, MT – Just getting light out.  The sun wouldn’t be up for a while yet.  Jobe was up already, busily rearranging gear in his Rubicon when SPHP came to.  Lupe sniffed excitedly, raring to go as soon as SPHP let her out of the G6.  Maybe she was expecting another Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) outing?

That wasn’t in the cards, a travel day was.  Wasn’t long before Jobe was ready.  Handshakes and pawshakes, and he was off.  The G6 followed the Rubicon across the bridge over Taylor Creek a minute later.  For 3 snail-paced bumpy miles, the Koch Peak adventure was sort of still on.  Wasn’t until the turn E into the rising sun on Taylor Fork Road that SPHP was certain the G6 wouldn’t pop a tire.

At Hwy 191, SPHP turned N down the Gallatin River valley.  Heavy traffic even this early in the day.  At I-90, the G6 headed W.  Jobe was long gone.  His adventures were taking him E to Billings tonight.  Been fun, but Lupe wouldn’t see her friend Jobe Wymore again this year.  The Carolina Dog was off for parts unknown!  W of Butte, SPHP turned S on I-15.  Never been here before!  Let the next adventure begin!

8-14-20, 11:40 AM, Hwy 43 –  The Big Hole River was plenty wide, but not terribly deep.  Peering into the water, the rocks forming the river bottom were all slimy and green, thick with long strands of algae swaying in the current.  Slippery!  Lupe did not venture in, preferring to admire the river’s sparkling surface from a dry rock.

Checking out the Big Hole River.

Hwy 43 ended at a “T” intersection with Hwy 93 at Lost Trail Pass along the Idaho – Montana border.  Sticking with Montana, SPHP turned N.   At Conner came a L (W) turn on West Fork Road, a shortcut which crossed both the E and W Forks of the Bitterroot River en route to Hwy 473.

Not far now!  Heading SW on Hwy 473 for a couple of miles, an access point for the W Fork of the Bitterroot River appeared on the L just before the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center came into view on the R.  Another 0.5 mile, and the highway crossed Trapper Creek.  Immediately beyond it was a sign for a R turn saying “Forest Access Baker Lake”.

8-14-20, 1:21 PM, W Fork of the Bitterroot River – Lupe waded in the cool, clear cool waters of the Bitterroot River.  No slimy green algae coating the rocks here!  Every pebble on the bottom stood out in crisp, watery relief.  SPHP waded in with the Carolina Dog for a few minutes, but she was soon more interested in a squirrel scolding her from the trees above the riverbank than cooling off.

W Fork of the Bitterroot River at the access point across Hwy 473 from the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center.

SPHP relaxed on a tiny sandy beach.  It had been too early to want to head up to the Baker Lake trailhead, so upon finding the access road, SPHP had simply turned around.  Tempting to take a swim, but the trip journal needed attention.  Two hours listening to the soothing rippling waters zoomed by.  Loop would have preferred to continue the squirrel siege, but really hadn’t been making any progress with it.  In any case, it was time to move on.

According to the topo map, the Baker Lake access road left Hwy 473 as USFS Road No. 363.  After crossing a big meadow, proof appeared on the R as the road turned up into the trees.

Yup! This is the right way, alright!

A mile from the highway, a big sign at a junction with Baker Lloyd Road (No. 5629) said 9 miles to the Baker Lake trail.  SPHP continued straight, sticking with No. 363, which by now was climbing steadily and getting both washboardy and very dusty.

At the junction with Baker Lloyd Road, which isn’t the way to go.

Another mile on No. 363 led to a spot where roads curved both L and R.  Directly ahead on a hillside was a “363”, apparently meant for the road going off to the L.  Instead, SPHP made a sharp R turn onto a road with a small sign saying “5634” with a hiking symbol below it.

The 8 miles on USFS Road No. 5634 were an adventure of their own!  Nearly the entire way the road wound crazily or made long switchbacks along a steep forested slope.  The rate of climb was never worrisome, in fact, parts of the route were level or close to it, yet the whole drive was unnerving, especially where openings appeared in the forest.  It was then possible to see the plunging mountainside and a vast airy expanse over to mountains miles to the E, mountains no higher than where the G6 now crept cautiously along.

However, the true source of anxiety was the extreme narrowness of the road, which produced a greatly heightened sense of always being on the brink.  No. 5634 was fine for one vehicle, but what if another was met on its way down the mountain?  The prospect of having to back down for who knew how far was dreadful, yet it must happen all the time.

An answer came 3 miles into the journey.  A vehicle did appear coming the other way.  Luck of the Dingo!  A Jeep!  No way two vehicles could pass on the road at this point, but the Jeep pulled almost entirely off the road leaning at a 40º angle on the uphill slope.  The G6 squeezed past.

Onward!  G6, ho!

Should have come up earlier in the day!  3 more times vehicles appeared heading down.  Luckily, all these instances occurred at points where it actually was possible to sneak by, the only abuse suffered by the G6 the rude scraping of tree branches along the passenger side.

8-14-20, 4:02 PM, Baker Lake trailhead –  The Baker Lake trailhead proved to be little more than a long wide spot where USFS Road No. 5634 simply dead-ended.  Room enough to carefully turn around, if the joint wasn’t too overrun already, which it might have been if those 4 vehicles that had already departed had still been up here.

SPHP did turn around, parking the G6 facing back out as close to the exit as possible.  Might help avoid getting hemmed in when the time came to depart!  An hour after leaving Hwy 473, the American Dingo hopped out.  If Loopster was as relieved as SPHP to finally be here, she gave no indication of it.

A short stroll past pickups and SUV’s to the end of the road led to the usual display of rules and regulations, but little of interest specific to this location.  Hours yet until the sun would set, but here on the E side of the mountain, much was already in shadow.  20 feet beyond the display, a well-worn single track trail curved up into the sullen deep green gloom of tall densely-packed conifers.

The evening wore on.  By nightfall, only 5 vehicles remained.

Baker Lake trailhead at the end of USFS Road No. 5634. Photo looks N.

8-15-20, 7:55 AM, 52ºF, Baker Lake trailhead – Morning sunlight filtering through the trees completely dispelled yesterday’s gloom as Lupe set off for Baker Lake on Trail No. 234.  The trail began with a short steep climb W or SW through thick forest before leveling out as it turned S.  Upon reaching a small clearing, the trail started switchbacking higher.  Before long, Looper came to a huge rock formation out in a larger opening.

This must be Baker Point!  Lupe scrambled partway up for a look.  Kind of hazy out, especially to the E.

About to set out from the Baker Lake trailhead. Photo looks S.
Baker Point. Photo looks SSE.

At Baker Point, Lupe reached the start of a broad ridge sloping slowly, but steadily higher.  The trail headed WNW along this ridge passing through a more open forest of younger trees.  After gaining perhaps 200 feet of elevation, the trail left the ridgeline to head more directly W or WSW along a slope N of the Baker Creek valley, flattening out as it did so, and even losing elevation in spots.

Glimpses of the ridge to the SW that Lupe ultimately needed to get over to began appearing.  Eventually, Loop caught sight of towering cliffs on the E face of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.), too.

In the younger forest past Baker Point.
The ridge on the L leads to Trapper Peak. Photo looks SW.
East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.

After losing 80 feet of elevation, a big opening was reached on the N (R) side of the trail.  This region contained many huge rocks that had long ago crumbled ago from the ridge the trail had abandoned, the top of which was now in sight at least 100 feet higher.

Below the ridge the trail had abandoned. Photo looks N.

From this low point, the trail began climbing again as it wound among boulders and tree roots in an older forest.  Close to Baker Lake exposed slabs of rounded bedrock appeared.  With so much rock about, the forest was more dispersed.  Upon reaching Baker Creek, Loop crossed a bridge of three small logs before following the stream to its source.

Boulders, tree roots, and an older, denser forest en route to Baker Lake.
Slabs of bedrock appeared shortly before reaching Baker Lake. Photo looks N.
Crossing the 3 log bridge over Baker Creek.
Baker Creek was small, but quite scenic flowing over exposed bedrock.

Lupe found Baker Lake tucked away in a spectacular setting!  Large rock formations bordered the E and S shores, and magnificent mature forests encircled the lake wherever sufficient soil was present.  Huge protective ridges pressed in from the N and S, and off to the W was a splendid view of the E face of East Trapper Peak.  Mirror smooth, the lake doubled the grandeur of its surroundings in near perfect reflections.

Baker Lake. East Trapper Peak (L of Center). Photo looks W.
Another angle. East Trapper Peak (R). Photo Looks WSW.
East Trapper Peak from Baker Lake. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Evidently, Baker Lake is a popular destination.  Exploring boulders and bedrock along the E shore, Lupe saw colorful tents and hammocks both nearby, and over on the W side of the lake.  However, getting to Baker Lake was merely a good start to the day for the peakbagging Dingo.

Trapper Peak (10,157 ft.) was Lupe’s destination.  Unseen, except for the E summit, Trapper Peak was still another 2,300+ feet higher and 2 miles away.  There was actually an official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 that came up the mountain’s humongous SE ridge, but the Baker Lake route that Lupe was taking was shorter, more scenic, and required 640 feet less elevation gain.

The whole trick to making the Baker Lake route work was to get up onto the ridge S of the lake, which was merely a different part of the same SE ridge the official trail went up.  However, the topo map showed the N face of this ridge being very steep for 200+ feet.  Didn’t look so bad from here at the lake, though.  Lupe headed for it, staying somewhat E of the lake following an easy route higher along bedrock slabs.

The ridge Lupe had to get up onto as seen from Baker Lake. The route up is just to the R of the big pine tree at L. Photo looks SSW.
On the bedrock slabs heading for the E end of the ridge (Center). This region is SSE of Baker Lake. Much better than going due S from the lake. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP had previously seen GPS tracks of routes others had successfully tried from Baker Lake.  Nearly all of them went up toward the lower E end of the part of the ridge closest to the lake.  A shaded area full of trees could be seen between two cliffy spots as Lupe got closer.  Figuring this was the way to go, suspicions were soon confirmed by the discovery of a use trail near the bottom of the slope.

Aim for the dark area (L of Center) between the cliffy spots! Photo looks S.
At the base of the climb, which is just to the R of these cliffs. Photo looks SSE.

The slope the use trail went up was steep, very steep, but not all that rocky.  SPHP clung to trees, branches, bushes – basically whatever was available, whenever available.  With 4 on the floor, Loopster had no trouble.  Near the top, the rate of climb diminished.  Gonna make it!

Getting close to the top. Photo looks S.
Made in the shade! The use trail flattens out just beyond Lupe. Photo looks SSE.

Up on top, a large pile of deadfall was near the big flat spot where the use trail came up.  The use trail turned R here, heading W just S of a line of cliffs.  However, before going that way, Lupe scrambled over some of the deadfall to a rocky high point visible just a little to the NE.  This high point featured several large dead trees, and was a terrific viewpoint.  Baker Lake could be seen from here, as well as both East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.) and North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.).

At the viewpoint NE of where the use trail reached the ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.
Baker Lake (Center) from above. Photo looks N.
East Trapper Peak (L) and North Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks WNW.

Reaching the ridgeline meant that the only tricky part of the ascent was over, but the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go.  Returning to the use trail, she now followed it W through a forest different from the one down by Baker Lake.  Up here, the trees were smaller, more spaced out, and many were dead.

Following the use trail higher. Photo looks WNW.

The use trail gained elevation at an easy to moderate pace that didn’t vary much.  Every now and then, Lupe ventured N to the edge of the cliffs to check out the views.  She finally came to a point where Middle Lake was in sight, along with just a glimpse of Gem Lake above it.

Middle Lake (near Lupe’s head). East Trapper Peak (L) and North Trapper Peak (Center). Photo looks NW.

Close to this viewpoint, the terrain steepened as Loop climbed a ridge of light-colored talus.  These rocks tended to be flattish, which made them an easier scramble than they might otherwise have been.  Lichens gave all the rocks on top of the ridge a mottled dark gray and light green cast.

This ridge was HP8768 on the topo map.  Ahead was a chasm due to a large notch in the main ridge, and a terrific view of East Trapper Peak.

Climbing the light-colored talus ridge. Photo looks W.
East Trapper Peak (R) from HP8768. Photo looks W.

Lupe now had to veer SW along the talus ridge to avoid the chasm.  The talus slowed things down, but eventually played out.  Back in the forest, Loop soon turned W again, quickly regaining the elevation she’d lost leaving HP8768 and more.

By now the use trail was intermittent, but the overall route was clear.  The open forest and moderate pace of climb made travel relatively easy.  Lupe kept heading W, constantly gaining elevation.  Eventually the line of cliffs to the N began to curve NW.

A high point of light-colored rocks now appeared near the edge, but the terrain steepened rapidly in that direction, and a young densely-packed forest made attaining that high point difficult.  Abandoning the attempt to follow the cliffs any farther, Lupe took a course more to the WNW.

The forest soon began to thin.  Suddenly it ended.  A few thin lines of stunted trees ran down a long slope of scattered rocks and loose soil.  Directly ahead were several distant high points.

Oh, I think that’s it, SPHP! Trapper Peak (L)! Photo looks WNW.

Wandering higher on the vast open slope beyond the forest, Lupe now had views of mountains to the SW.  A ridge of dark stone appeared to the N, the summit of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.).  Instead of going to it, the American Dingo aimed for the saddle leading to Trapper Peak.

In the open on Trapper Peak’s vast SE slope. HP9587 (R of Center). Photo looks SW.
Below East Trapper Peak’s summit ridge. Photo looks N.

On the way to the saddle, Lupe came across the official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 bound for the same destination.  By then, she didn’t have much farther to go.  The broad flat saddle between East Trapper Peak and Trapper Peak proved to be terrain similar to the giant slope Looper had just come up, a rock-strewn plain of gritty loose soil and short, sparse vegetation.

Approaching Trapper Peak. Trail No. 133 (R). Photo looks W.
East Trapper Peak from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

Before heading for Trapper Peak’s summit, Lupe ventured over to the N edge of the saddle.  Here, beyond a giant cirque, was a tremendous view of a series of rugged peaks and jagged ridges extending from North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.) all the way to El Capitan (9,983 ft.).

El Capitan (far L) and North Trapper Peak (far R). Photo looks NNW.

At the W end of the saddle, the official Trapper Peak trail vanished as far as SPHP could tell.  Two high points were visible ahead, the more distant one clearly higher than than the one Lupe faced at the moment.  Gonna be slow going!  All talus from here on.

At the W end of the saddle, approaching the talus-covered slopes leading to the summit. Photo looks W.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone along the entire Baker Lake route except right at Baker Lake, but the official Trapper Peak trail was busy.  Hikers were coming and going.  From here, most seemed to head W right over this first high point.  Following their example, Looper did the same.

On the talus slope leading to the first high point. Photo looks W.

From the top, which turned out to be a series of mini high points along a talus ridge modestly higher toward the W, the next high point ahead was in full view.  Definitely the true summit!  Whether coming up onto this first ridge was really the best route or not seemed doubtful.  At the W end, the American Dingo faced a short, but very steep down climb in big talus to get to a minor saddle leading to the final ascent.

Maybe it would have been better to stay lower simply skirting this ridge to the S?  Hard to say.  Didn’t matter now.  Lupe did what she had to do.

True summit of Trapper Peak (Center) from the first high point. Photo looks WNW.
East Trapper Peak (L) from the E end of the first high point. Photo looks ENE.
At the W end of the first high point with the final ascent dead ahead! Getting down to the saddle leading to it was trickier than it looks. Photo looks NW.

8-15-20, 1:18 PM, Trapper Peak – Made it!  Well, almost.  Having scrambled up from the S, Lupe was now a little SW of the true summit, maybe 20 or 25 feet below it.  Quite a few people around.  Lots up on top.  Still early, the Carolina Dog could wait for them to clear out.  Time for a rest, anyway.  Except for a bit of haziness, the weather was perfect.

Hah!  That was SPHP’s opinion.  The American Dingo was hot.  While SPHP found a perch from which to enjoy the views, Loop searched for a comfortable spot with a bit of shade.  None!  Giving up on finding any, Lupe finally plunked herself down on a patch of dirt to pant and snap at flies.  A couple bowls of water provided at least some relief.

Don’t happen to have a parasol in that backpack, do you, SPHP?

A little SW of where Lupe and SPHP were hanging out, an airy platform of rock provided a tremendous vantage point.  Like the true summit, it was occupied.  However, when it eventually opened up, Loop went over that way for a look around.

Airy platform (L) before it got vacated. Photo looks W.
Due to some big cracks, as close to the airy platform as Loop got. Photo looks W.

To the S and SW, Boulder Peak (9,804 ft.), East Boulder Peak (9,480 ft.) and HP9587 stood out.  Beyond them a huge expanse of lesser peaks and ridges stretched to the horizon.

HP9578 (L), East Boulder Peak (Center) and Boulder Peak (R). Photo looks SSW.
HP9578. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Due N, and more than 2,500 feet lower, a good chunk of Cave Lake was visible.  Sugarloaf Peak (9,586 ft.) towered a couple of ridges past it, while El Capitan (9,983 ft.) dominated the scene farther NNW.

Cave Lake (R of Center), Sugarloaf Peak (Center), & El Capitan (far L). Photo looks N.
El Capitan. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking WNW.
Summit from close to the airy platform. Photo looks NE.

People continually came and went.  Most stayed up at the true summit only a little while before moving on, but a few lingered for a long time.  Lupe was patient, but the summit was never unoccupied.  More than 1.5 hours drifted by.

Alright.  Ready or not, maybe it was time for action?  Despite a couple in the middle of enjoying a picnic up there, SPHP encouraged Loopster to proceed.  On a mountain this busy, complete privacy was a luxury.

Guess we’re going to go barge in at the top now! Photo looks NE.
Looking back on the way to the true summit. Photo looks WSW.
Memorial stone near the summit.

Looper got high, very high!  But not quite all the way to the tippy top yet.  East Trapper Peak was in view again, and so was the entire SE ridge that the official Trapper Peak trail comes up.

East Trapper Peak (L of Center) and the first high point on the way up (R of Center). Photo looks E.
Trail No. 133 comes up the long slope in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP kept inching closer to the picnickers.  They finished eating, but the woman started calling people on her cell phone.  Meanwhile, Loopster discovered a survey benchmark, and got up on one of the very highest rocks.

The first of 2 survey benchmarks Lupe found on Trapper Peak.
Just a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had been waiting for a turn on the summit rock for nearly 2 hours now.  The couple was sitting right next to it.  SPHP finally apologized for the intrusion, as Loop leapt up to the true summit.  Close to the highest point, another survey benchmark was attached to this rock.

True summit of Trapper Peak. El Capitan (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.
The “Trapper” survey benchmark.
How’s this for a view? We’re higher than El Capitan (Center) and everything else around here! Photo looks NW.

Fortunately, the couple was friendly.  They didn’t mind Lupe being up here, too.  The American Dingo took the liberty of going past them to get over to the best view of North and East Trapper Peaks.

East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
North Trapper Peak (L) and East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
More of the chasm between them. Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, the phone conversations quickly headed S.  Suddenly, the woman was weeping as she spoke with her mother.  Awkward, but the situation didn’t last.  Trapper Peak’s joyful mood had been ruined for the couple.  They left, heading down the mountain.

Sad that their Trapper Peak experience ended that way, but it worked for Lupe.  For the first time she had the true summit all to herself.  Still people not too far away, so the Carolina Dog better enjoy it while she could.

In dramatic solitude at the true summit! Photo looks NE.
More of the summit region. Photo looks NE.
Looking WSW now.
Looking W with help from the telephoto lens.

8-15-20, 3:29 PM, Trapper Peak – The true summit photo shoot hadn’t taken long, but Loop had now been at or near the top of Trapper Peak for over 2 fabulous hours.  So this was it, the inevitable moment of truth.

On Trapper Peak.

While the return was simply a matter of retracing the same basic Baker Lake route, Lupe changed things up a bit, making new discoveries and having new experiences along the way.

After scrambling down to the little saddle between Trapper Peak and the first high point to the E, Loop followed a trail S, losing elevation instead of going up and over that talus ridge.  Once she turned E, cairns were all over the place, but still no path.  Just a jumble of large talus, same as the ridgeline had been.

So, no matter which route was taken, it was simply a time-consuming talus trek over to the big saddle W of East Trapper Peak.  Once Lupe got there, instead of jumping on the official Trapper Peak trail to start down the enormous SE slope, Lupe climbed East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.).  This was easily accomplished from close to the SE end of the summit ridge where she didn’t have to do much scrambling.

For no more effort than it took, the side jaunt up East Trapper Peak was very worthwhile!  The views of Trapper Peak were splendid, and even Baker Lake and most of the route back to it were visible from up here.

Trapper Peak from East Trapper Peak. Photo looks WSW.
North Trapper Peak (Center) and El Capitan (far L). Photo looks N.
East Trapper Peak summit region with Trapper Peak in the background. Photo looks WSW.
Baker Lake (L). The route back circles along the top of the cliff line. Photo looks ESE.

During the return, those boots started bothering SPHP’s paws again.  Lupe suffered no such inconveniences.  Once back in the forest, the Carolina Dog had a blast racing about searching for squirrels, while SPHP hobbled after her.

The talus ridge at HP8768 was easily avoided.  However, this success was completely overshadowed by a mistake SPHP made descending the very steep slope leading down to Baker Lake.

Instead of staying toward the E (R), halfway down SPHP led Loop down a path more to the W.  This missed the nice trek on the slabs Lupe had taken earlier in the day that would have gotten her back to Baker Lake with little difficulty.  The American Dingo dropped much further down into a jungle of deadfall, boulders, bogs, and hollows.  SPHP endured a lot of useless thrashing about before reaching the S shore of Baker Lake.

8-15-20, 8:40 PM, Baker Lake trailhead – Whew!  What a day!  Even Lupe was acting tired as SPHP limped gingerly to the G6.  The Trapper Peak adventure wasn’t over yet.  One more thing to do.  After getting Loopster fed and the pack stuffed back into the G6, SPHP opened a Coke and a box of Dots, then turned the key.

In the morning, vehicles would be coming up super narrow USFS Road No. 5634.  Now was the time to get back down to the highway.  Twilight faded to black on the 8 mile Coke slurping, Dot munching journey back to USFS Road No. 363.  Slowly, cautiously!  Still took a long time, but the experience was much less nerve-wracking in the dark without those daunting views or oncoming vehicles to worry about.

Success!  Took the better part of an hour, but so what?  The American Dingo could now spend the night twitching and dreaming of her Trapper Peak adventures at the access area along the beautiful W Fork of the Bitterroot River.  And why not?  That was SPHP’s plan, too.

Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana 8-15-20

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