Crazy Peak, Montana – On the Verge of EPIC with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-22-17)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Dawn.  Lupe sat bright-eyed on SPHP’s lap listening to Morning Dew by the Grateful Dead.  She gazed intently out the window of Jobe’s silver Jeep Rubicon.  Jobe was expounding on Jerry Garcia’s musical talents as he drove.  Lupe listened politely as Jobe & SPHP chatted.  In truth, she was more interested in the possibility of seeing cows, deer, or squirrels along the 4WD road.

The sun was above the horizon by the time Jobe parked his Rubicon at a 6,900 foot elevation saddle on Crazy Peak’s SE ridge.  An old pickup truck was already parked nearby, but no one was around.  Good.  This was it!  Lupe’s big chance to climb Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.) with Jobe had arrived!  Crazy Peak wasn’t just any mountain.  With Crazy Peak done, Jobe would be on the verge of EPIC!

Sunrise from Crazy Peak’s SE Ridge.
Jobe leads the way as Lupe sets off for Crazy Peak. Photo looks WNW.

This opportunity to climb Crazy Peak with Jobe had been set in motion a couple of months ago.  While looking at the results of Jobe’s week long mid-May 2017 trip to the East Coast on Peakbagger.com, SPHP discovered Jobe was now very close to completing a huge peakbagging feat – one he had been working on for more than 20 years.  Jobe was only 2 peaks away from completing the EPIC List for all 50 US states!

Millions of people have enjoyed a hike to the top of the highest mountain in one or more US states.  In fact, it’s not that hard to reach the highest point in quite a few states.  However, only the truly dedicated ever seriously dream of climbing the highest mountain in all 50 states – in addition to the travel time and expense involved, that list contains some difficult peaks requiring equipment and technical climbing skills.  Yet those 50 highest peaks are only part of what we’re talking about here.  Jobe had already been to the top of the highest mountain in every state.  The EPIC List goes way beyond that.

Elevation is only one statistical measure of a mountain’s claim to grandeur.  There are others.  The EPIC list also considers Prominence and Isolation.  Prominence is a measure of the minimum elevation one would have to lose from a mountain’s summit to travel to a higher peak by any route, no matter how long, difficult or impractical.  Isolation measures how far away it is in a direct line to the closest higher mountain.

In 19 US states, the highest mountain is also the most prominent and has the most isolation.  The same mountain ranks 1st in all three categories.  However, in the other 31 states, 2 or 3 different peaks can claim to be either the highest, most prominent, most isolated, or some combination thereof.  Consequently, the EPIC List for the 50 US states includes not just 50, but 96 different peaks.

Only Bob Packard among all Peakbagger.com account holders has climbed all 96 peaks on the EPIC List.  Now Jobe was only 2 peaks away!  What caught SPHP’s eye was where those remaining unclimbed peaks were.  Both were in Montana, a state that borders South Dakota where Lupe lives.  Mount Cleveland (10,466 ft.) with 98.18 miles of isolation is the most isolated peak in Montana.  Located in the far NW part of the state in Glacier National Park, anti-Dingo regulations prevent Lupe from ever doing anything there.

The other summit Jobe was lacking was Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.).  With 5,709 ft. of prominence, Crazy Peak is the most prominent mountain in Montana.  Located in S central Montana in the Gallatin National Forest, it wasn’t nearly as far away as Mount Cleveland.

Crazy Peak has a spot on a lot of peakbagging lists, not just the EPIC list.  Early in 2017 SPHP had considered including Crazy Peak among the mountains Lupe might want to climb this summer.  A little research on Peakbagger.com had squelched that idea.  Every trip report was on the same ascent route, and most mentioned Class 4 terrain on the way to the summit.  SPHP didn’t know much about the rating system, but knew enough to realize that Lupe needed to stay far away from anything approaching Class 4.

Now a new idea crept into SPHP’s noggin.  Even if Lupe couldn’t climb Crazy Peak, wouldn’t it be fun to go there when Jobe with his superior skills climbed it?  Lupe and SPHP could still go partway up the mountain, and congratulate Jobe on his success when he returned from the summit on his way back down.  Lupe could still bask in her friend Jobe’s glory!

Well, maybe.  Lupe and SPHP didn’t really know Jobe very well.  In response to an email from Jobe, Lupe had scouted out conditions on Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) in the Black Hills back in late March of 2016 prior to a trip he was planning to western Nebraska and possibly South Dakota.  When Jobe subsequently arrived in the Black Hills on April 2nd, 2016, Lupe went with him to Odakota Mountain.

Lupe and SPHP had even followed Jobe all the way to the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska for an adventure down there that same day.  Jobe had treated Lupe very kindly the whole time.  When Lupe’s paws got sore, Jobe carried her to safety past the painful cactus that grew in profusion all over those desolate Nebraska hills.  Since then Jobe had occasionally stayed in touch via email.

Jobe was a great guy, but perhaps he had other plans for Crazy Peak with more experienced and capable climbers, or maybe he’d rather go solo than bother with a Carolina Dog?  Nothing ventured, nothing gained.  Didn’t hurt to ask.  On 5-23-17, SPHP sent Jobe an email.  When was Jobe planning on taking on Crazy and Cleveland?  Which would he tackle first?

A response came within a couple hours.  Jobe would likely take on Crazy Peak first.  The unique permitting process for climbing Mount Cleveland in Glacier National Park might cause an attempt on that peak to be delayed longer than Jobe would like.

On 5-25-17, SPHP sent another email.  This one popped the big question.  Lupe would be gone all of August, 2017, but if Jobe was planning on climbing Crazy Peak before then, would he mind if Loop and SPHP tagged along partway up?  Loop and SPHP had no delusions of reaching the top, and promised not to hold Jobe back from getting there himself.

Again came a quick response – an unexpected one.  All Jobe said was “Here’s some forwarded pics of Victor Zhou’s solo ascent of Crazy’s East Ridge from last summer.”  Eleven photos were attached.  SPHP got excited.  Those photos showed a big long ridge that got progressively rockier approaching Crazy’s summit.  The first part of the ridge was cake!  Lupe could get way higher on Crazy Peak than SPHP had thought.  Maybe she could even reach the summit!  It was hard to tell from the last few photos just what dangers might lurk among all that rock?

What was this, though, about an East Ridge route?  All the trip reports on Peakbagger.com mentioned coming up the W ridge.  Some mentioned going down the N ridge.  None of the reports or GPS tracks showed an attempt from the E.  Victor Zhou had climbed Crazy Peak on 7-20-16, but like most climbers, had not submitted a trip report or GPS track.  There were two E ridges, too.  One to the NE and one to the SE.  Which one did Victor climb?  After a look at the topo map, SPHP concluded Victor must have gone up the SE ridge.

SPHP fired off another email to Jobe expressing these thoughts.  Again Jobe responded quickly:

The route Victor climbed is unconventional and I have no idea why others haven’t climbed it with more regularity in the past.  It’s almost like everyone reads a particular trip report that mentions a specific route and that automatically becomes the only option?  The “normal” route is Class 4 where Victor’s is no more than Class 3 tops.  Might get a little sharp but not scary.  It’s definitely not the NE Ridge he ascended but I can ask him the definitive route (start location) and get back to ya.  He calls it the “East Ridge”.  If you want to meet and take a crack at it somewhere around July 22nd, I’m all in.

That’s all it took.  Crazy Peak was a go!

Now Lupe was really here!  Her chance to climb Crazy Peak with Jobe via Victor Zhou’s route had arrived!  Jobe led the way.  SPHP trailed behind, with Lupe bouncing back and forth between.  The first part of the trek was through forest.  Jobe headed WNW staying toward the S edge of the ridge.  Below was the deep canyon of the South Fork of Big Timber Creek.

An early glimpse to the SW down into the canyon of the South Fork of Big Timber Creek.

Progress through the forest was good.  A steady, but unremarkable climb.  After a little while, the forest began to give out.  Lupe and Jobe reached a minor high point where it was possible to get a good look at the first stretch of open terrain ahead.  Nothing fancy, or anything to be the least bit concerned about was in view, just a continuation of the steady climb minus trees.

The forest eventually gave out. From this minor high point Loopster has a good view of the open terrain ahead. Pretty easy to tell which way to go from here! Photo looks NW.
Jobe assesses the situation. The ridge on the R is also part of Crazy Peak’s massive SE ridge. The high point in view where the terrain converges is likely HP 8448. Photo looks NW.

Two “minor” sub-ridges, both part of Crazy Peak’s massive SE ridge converge near HP 8448.  (See the Peakbagger.com topo map.)  Lupe, Jobe and SPHP had been following the S one.  This caused no issues on the way up, but would be important to remember on the way down.

Jobe now beyond HP 8448. The terrain is still easy. Photo looks NW.
A better look from higher up at the South Fork of Big Timber Creek canyon. Photo looks SW.
Jobe leads the charge up. Lupe looking good not far behind.

Some distance beyond HP 8448, Jobe led Lupe and SPHP around to the N side of the ridge.  For a while, the terrain was a little easier here.  The slope down into the canyon to the N wasn’t as steep.  On the way to HP 9761, the summit of Crazy Peak came into view, still more than 2 miles to the WNW.

On the way to HP 9761, the summit of Crazy Peak came into view, still more than 2 miles to the WNW.
Jobe leads the way again after a stop to let SPHP catch up.

Even before the ridge became really rocky, SPHP was having a hard time keeping up with Jobe.  Lupe could easily enough, but the effects of the climbs of the past 2 days, and Lupe’s long adventures earlier in the Wind River Range were taking a toll on SPHP.  Though Jobe repeatedly stopped and waited, or went slowly for him, SPHP was falling farther and farther behind.

This came as no surprise.  Jobe is in far superior condition.  A mountaineer with tremendous experience and dedication to staying fit, he didn’t even look like he was trying.  Effortlessly, Jobe glided over terrain that SPHP trudged or stumbled through.  Jobe made it look so easy!  Meanwhile SPHP was having to stop repeatedly to catch breath.

The faithful American Dingo stuck mostly with SPHP as Jobe forged ahead.  SPHP’s slower pace gave her plenty of time to sniff around and relax.  She could even take short Dingo naps.

Lupe takes a little Dingo nap while SPHP pauses to catch breath. SPHP couldn’t go at the pace Jobe & Lupe were capable of, but so far, things were still looking good.

Despite falling behind, even SPHP was making reasonable progress.  Things were still looking good for reaching the summit of Crazy Peak!  The situation gradually changed, though, as the big ridge steadily narrowed and became rockier.

Getting closer, but as Lupe approached HP 9761, the ridge was already getting considerably narrower and rockier. Photo looks WNW.

By the time Looper made it to HP 9761, the ridge had narrowed down a lot.  Vegetation was nearly gone.  The ridgeline was rocky and uneven.  Both sides of the ridge were steep, and comprised of a lot of loose rock.  Here, the S side of the ridge wasn’t as bad as the N.

Jobe’s superior strength and stamina were now augmented by superior balance, too.  No contest at all now.  Jobe managed to simply walk the ridgeline in lots of places where SPHP felt compelled to down climb to get around rough spots.  That burned a lot of extra time.

The agreement all along had been that Jobe should not wait for SPHP.  While conditions were favorable, he really needed to get to the top of Crazy Peak.  Time to check this one off the EPIC List!  It would be great if Lupe and SPHP could get to the top, too, but there wasn’t the same degree of urgency.  Lupe could still try to summit a little later than Jobe.

As the ridge became more difficult for SPHP, Jobe surged ahead.  Lupe watched him go.  Of course, her best bet for getting to the top of Crazy Peak would have been to just go with Jobe.  Maybe she would have liked to, but she wouldn’t abandon SPHP.

Lupe watches as Jobe surges ahead. He’s now just a red spec on the ridge.
Lupe’s best bet for reaching the summit of Crazy Peak would have been to go with Jobe, but she wouldn’t abandon SPHP. She would still get there, if SPHP could make it.
Looking back. Here Lupe is past HP 9761 seen in the distance on the R. Photo looks E.

Looper and SPHP continued on, following Jobe who was getting farther and farther away.  Eventually Jobe paused at a high point and looked back, checking on Lupe’s progress.  For a moment he stood there, looking small, far away, and already much higher.

Jobe pauses and looks back to check on Lupe & SPHP a final time before disappearing from view. He was already a lot higher and quite a long way off. The telephoto lens makes Jobe look much closer than he really was. Photo looks WNW.

Jobe knew what he had to do.  A moment later, he was gone.  Lupe and SPHP were alone.  There was nothing else to do, but keep chugging along.

Lupe presses on, still optimistic, though Jobe has disappeared from view. Photo looks S.
Looking back down the SE ridge. HP 9761 in view. Photo looks SE.
A long way to go yet. That high point ahead isn’t even the summit. Photo looks WNW.
Looking SW.

Lupe was still making progress up Crazy Peak’s big SE ridge, but SPHP was frustrated with the pace.

Oh, Looper, I’m sorry, but maybe you should have gone with Jobe!

What!  Why?

I’m just too slow on this steep, loose stuff.  Our pace isn’t exactly scintillating, as you may have noticed.

Yes, but we’re getting there.  We’ll just keep going like we always do.

True.  So far so, good.  Nothing’s stopped us yet, but I’m afraid we’ll run out of time.  We can’t be coming back in the dark like we often do.  Jobe has a 14 hour drive back home after this.  He needs to hit the road so he can get back to work.  Besides, this doesn’t seem to be getting any easier and who knows how bad the terrain is up ahead?  Those last photos that Victor Zhou took looked questionable.  We might not even be able to get there.

So Jobe might not get to the top of Crazy Peak?  That would be terrible!

No, no.  Don’t worry about that.  Victor Zhou made it.  Jobe will make it, too.  But I’m not Victor or Jobe, not by a long shot.  I’m not saying we won’t get there, but it seems like we’ve already been at this quite a while, and there’s no sign we’re anywhere near the top yet.

Well, hurry it up then!

I’m coming, sweet puppy.  Lead on!

Lupe encourages SPHP up the next steep section. Photo looks WNW.

The summit of Crazy Peak had been out of view now for a while.  It was hard to tell how encouraged or discouraged one should be.  Lupe led the way up a couple of steep sections that went pretty well.  The rocks were larger and more stable here.  SPHP managed to make the climbs fairly rapidly.  Maybe there still was enough time for Lupe to reach the top of Crazy Peak?  Hope rekindled.  It sure looked like Lupe was getting high!

After a spurt up a couple of steep sections, hope was rekindled that Lupe would still have time to reach Crazy Peak’s summit. The views were already terrific! Photo looks SE back down the ridge.
Progress, but was it enough? Photo looks SE.

When the summit of Crazy Peak came into view again, it was a sobering sight.  Despite SPHP’s spurt, Lupe remained a long way from the top of the mountain.

When the summit of Crazy Peak (R) came back into view again, it was a sobering sight. Lupe was still a long way from the top. Photo looks WNW.

Ugh!  The summit’s still way over there, Looper.

Don’t give up!  We’re getting closer.

Yah, keep going, but seems like Jobe’s been gone quite a while now.  Sooner or later he’s going to reappear.  Probably sooner I would think, and we aren’t going to be close enough to justify continuing on then.

Jobe didn’t appear, though.  Lupe and SPHP carried on.  Unfortunately, the ridge was messier again.  SPHP kept down climbing to get around troublesome spots.  Slow, slow, slow!  Not good at all.

LOL, SPHP. We aren’t ever going to make it if you can’t stay up here! Lupe has a chuckle at SPHP’s endless down climbing.

Onward, bit by bit.  Time ticked by.  Though SPHP didn’t realize it then, the next big high point Lupe could see up ahead was 10,900+ feet.  The ridge was ragged, but Lupe could get there!  The summit would only be another 300 feet higher.

The high point on the L is 10,900+ feet, only 300 feet lower than Crazy Peak’s summit (seen beyond a little to the R). It looked like Lupe could at least get that far! Photo looks NW.

Pretty soon, though, a red dot appeared.  A red dot headed this way.  Jobe was returning!  Had he made it to the summit?  He’d been gone quite a long while – surely he’d made it?  What news would he bring?

A red dot appeared on the ridge ahead. Jobe was returning! Had he made it to the summit?

There’s Jobe, SPHP!

Yes, I see him, too.

Aren’t we going to go meet him?

No, let’s wait here Looper.  Jobe’s moving fast.  He’ll be here soon enough.  Let’s see what he has to say first.

Lupe and SPHP waited as Jobe worked his way back along the ridge.

A look through the telephoto lens at Jobe with Crazy Peak’s summit in the background. Photo looks NW.

As Jobe drew steadily nearer, SPHP took a few pictures of the views from this point Lupe had reached.  It wasn’t completely clear yet if she would be going any farther.

Crazy Lake is seen below from the point Lupe reached on Crazy Peak’s SE ridge. Photo looks W.
Big Timber Peak (10,795 ft.) (R) is connected to Crazy Peak by the sheer jagged ridge seen on the L. Probably the most challenging and technical route possible to Crazy Peak. No one goes that way. Photo looks N.
Looking back the way Lupe had come. Photo looks ESE.

Jobe arrived all smiles.  Success!  Yes, he’d made it to the top.  Crazy Peak was finally done.  Only Mount Cleveland was left to do on his 50 states EPIC List!  He graciously accepted congratulations from Lupe and SPHP.

Jobe returns all smiles! Yes, he’d made it to the top of Crazy Peak. Photo looks E.
The grand view from Crazy Peak’s summit. Photo by Jobe Wymore.
Jobe signed the Crazy Peak register. He had now completed the 50 US state most prominent peak list! Photo by Jobe Wymore.
Lupe and Jobe celebrate Jobe’s success. Photo looks E.

Surprisingly, Jobe had met 3 young women at the summit who came up from yet another route.  They’d camped overnight down at Crazy Lake, and had made a long trek on a steep, loose scree slope directly up the mountain.  They were concerned about the prospect of the impending rather scary trip back down to camp.  Jobe had spent some time talking to them, which was part of why he had been gone as long as he had.

So what was the rest of the route like?  Jobe said there were a few spots that were kind of sketchy with some exposure.  He’d gotten through just fine, though.  He wasn’t sure what SPHP might think, or how Lupe would fare.  A bit scary perhaps?  Jobe nodded his head indicating Lupe and SPHP were free to go on and take a crack at it.  Evidently he must have thought it was at least possible for Lupe to succeed.  It was very kind of him to be willing to wait.

First – two more key questions.  Jobe’s smart phone would have the answers.  What time was it, and what elevation had Lupe reached here?

Early afternoon.  Lupe is at 10,400 feet.

The summit of Crazy Peak looked a long way off.  (It was actually only a little over 0.5 mile away.)  Another 800 feet of elevation gain left, including some rough, sketchy territory with exposure ahead.  Most importantly, it was now afternoon.  Seven hours gone by already?  At the pace SPHP was going it would take Lupe another two hours to reach the top of the mountain.  By then it would be mid-afternoon.  That meant part of the return trip would be in darkness.

There had been plenty of time to think about things while Jobe was gone.  The terrain hadn’t stopped Lupe yet, but as much as SPHP would have liked for Lupe to succeed at climbing Crazy Peak, SPHP hesitated only a moment.

No, Jobe, we’ve timed out.  Let’s head down.

Right decision.  Lupe was happy.  Jobe was happy.  It was a relief to be going back down.  The day was a big success!  Jobe had made it to the top of Crazy Peak.  Lupe and SPHP had shared in the joy, and kept their promise not to delay him – at least not by too much.  Only Mount Cleveland to go!  Jobe indicated he might take on Mount Cleveland sometime in early August, only 2 or 3 weeks away.

Well before the sun went down, Lupe and SPHP were back in Jobe’s air-conditioned Jeep Rubicon, bouncing along comfortably.  Morning Dew and Terrapin Station by the Grateful Dead were playing.  Jobe resumed his enthusiastic dissertation on Jerry Garcia’s musical talents.  A good time, a really good time.

All too soon, Lupe was back at the G6, giving Jobe’s hand a final shake next to the Rubicon.

Pals Lupe and Jobe.
Lupe extends final congratulations to Jobe on his great success at Crazy Peak.

Brief good-byes and well wishes, then onward!  Jobe roared off in the Rubicon.  Minutes later, Lupe and SPHP were in the G6 going down the same dusty road.  Lupe resumed her usual watch for cows and horses to bark at.

After a fun day on Crazy Peak, Lupe resumes her watch for cows and horses to bark at.

SPHP soon stopped the G6 for a last look back.

Lupe’d had success climbing several nice peaks with Jobe on the previous two days.  Nevertheless, Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.) would always be the one that stood out from the others.  There it was, that long tantalizing SE ridge, forever leading skyward to the joyful moment when Lupe had stood with mountaineer and friend Jobe Wymore on the verge of EPIC!

Crazy Peak from the ENE.
Lupe and Jobe Wymore on the verge of EPIC. Crazy Peak, Montana – July 22, 2017.

Thanks to Victor Zhou for sharing the route on the SE ridge that Jobe used to summit Crazy Peak, and gave Lupe some hope of doing the same.

Epilogue

Although Lupe and SPHP were confident Jobe would be successful climbing Mount Cleveland in early August, 2017, Lupe wouldn’t know for certain how Jobe fared until she returned from her Summer of 2017 Dingo Vacation in September.

Lupe arrived home on 9-13-17, to find an email from Jobe waiting for her entitled “Mount Cleveland denial.  Weep, weep.”   Jobe had arrived at the National Park visitor center only to be turned away due to forest fires that had started only the evening before.  All backcountry permits via Goat Haunt had been cancelled.

So at the time of this post’s publication, Jobe remains on the verge of EPIC, only short Mount Cleveland from completing the 50 States of the USA EPIC List.  Of course, in due time Jobe will be back.  Lupe and SPHP wish him a speedy, successful and safe ascent! – 9-22-17

August, 2018 Update

Jobe eventually did complete the USA 50 States EPIC List more than a year after his adventure with Lupe on Crazy Mountain with a successful ascent of Mount Cleveland on 8-16-18.  Congratulations, Jobe!

Links:

                 Next Dingo Vacation                    Prior Adventure

            This Dingo Vacation                           Prior Dingo Vacation

Jobe Wymore on Peakbagger.com

EPIC List – States of the USA (showing all peaks and dates of Jobe’s ascents)

EPIC List – States of the USA  (showing front runners with the most ascents)

To the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (4-2-16)

Mount Powell, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-20-17)

Naya Nuki Peak & Sacagawea Peak, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-21-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska (8-27-16)

Day 29, Part 2, of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Plans for a return visit to the beach at Ninilchik on Cook Inlet were quickly dashed when Lupe and SPHP stopped to help a woman hitchhiker along the Sterling Highway (Alaska Route 1).  Turned out she needed a ride to her landscaping job, well beyond Ninilchik, clear over in Soldotna.  She was already late and needed to get there quickly.  Her car (nowhere in sight) had broken down, and no one else had stopped to give her a lift.

Jane was a friendly, plucky gal.  She introduced herself to Lupe and SPHP, and immediately launched into her life’s story.  Some of it made not a lick of sense, but it was an entertaining tale nevertheless.  Lupe and SPHP listened in silence as the miles flew by, and Jane related her only-in-Alaska monologue.

Jane had moved to Homer, Alaska from California years ago.  Naturally, she loved Alaska.  She had made some money back in California in real estate.  Jane used part of the money she’d saved to make a great purchase of 40 acres near the edge of a development somewhere around here, the particular parcel having been carefully selected by closing her eyes and putting her finger to a map.

The land wasn’t even for sale at the time, but when Jane approached the owners, they thought she was so wonderful, they promptly agreed to sell it to her for a song.  She lives off-grid in a cabin on this beautiful property, where she and her dog manage to avoid being eaten by grizzlies by sticking close to either the cabin, or her ATV, on which they zoom away to safety at a moment’s notice.

When you live off grid, you have to create your own entertainment.  Jane kept chickens to produce eggs.  A pure white rooster served as head of the flock.  For fun, Jane used a water pistol to paint the rooster with bright colors so he was more of a fancy rainbow rooster instead of a boring pure white one.  The rooster didn’t object in the least.  Instead, his reaction was to put on a Mick Jagger style strutting performance to impress his harem, which Jane found endlessly amusing.

Sadly, tragedy struck.  All but two of her chickens and the beloved rainbow rooster passed away very recently when her pet wolf broke its new chain after only 2 days, and did what wolves like to do to chickens.

With the wonderful, balmy climate Alaska now has due to global warming, it’s getting harder and harder to keep the riff raff out.  The Kenai peninsula is filling up with people.  Living off the grid here is no longer the hardy pioneering existence it once was a few years back.  Fortunately, Jane’s 24 year old son took pictures of a mind-bogglingly beautiful little town, with a name that SPHP has since forgotten, but it started with a “U”.

U-ville is located on Spruce Island, near much larger Kodiak Island, and can only be accessed by boat or the air.  The few pictures Jane’s son took were enough to convince Jane that U-ville is the place to be, so she is in the process of getting ready to sell her 40 acres and move.  People in U-ville, who have never met Jane, but have advanced word of her interest in living on Spruce Island, are falling over themselves offering her good jobs, and encouraging her to join their community ASAP.

Jane related all this, and a good deal more which now escapes SPHP, in the time it took to reach Soldotna, where she promptly exited the G6, cheerfully bidding Lupe and SPHP a fond farewell.  Clearly there had been much more to come, time permitting, so it was with a mixed sense of reluctance and relief that Lupe resumed her own adventures, though they may pale in comparison to Jane’s.

Lupe’s next adventure started E of Soldotna near milepost 61 of the Sterling Highway at the trailhead for the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills (12:03 PM, 68°F).  The trailhead parking lot was on the SW side of the highway, but the actual trail started over on the NE side, a bit farther to the NW.

Looking up at the Mystery Hills from the Skyline Trail parking lot near milepost 61 of the Sterling Highway. Photo looks NE.

A sign near the start of the Skyline Trail provided general information.  Lupe could expect a steep 1,800 feet of elevation gain over 1.25 miles.

The Skyline Trail is somewhat oddly named, since it officially ends at a saddle between mountains, before ever getting up to any of the peaks of the Mystery Hills, or even following any portion of the ridgeline.  Skyline Access Trail would have been a better name for it.

The sign did show a trail continuing on up from the saddle.  On the topo map SPHP had along, a pack trail goes on for miles all the way from the saddle up to and over a series of peaks in the Mystery Hills.

Sign near the start of the Skyline Trail.

Just as the sign had promised, the Skyline Trail was steep.  There were no significant switchbacks.  Up and up.  SPHP was soon pausing frequently to let heart, lungs and legs catch up with the demands of the trail.  Lupe, of course, wasn’t fazed in the least.

For a long way, the trail was in forest.  Little could be seen.  After quite a climb, the forest finally started gradually giving way to tall bushes.  Lupe started to get glimpses of the progress she was making.

Once the forest thinned out, Lupe could see the progress she was making. Part of her first peakbagging goal, Mystery Hills North is seen on the R. Photo looks E.

The trail’s rate of climb didn’t diminish until Lupe was getting fairly close to the saddle.  Then things started to level out rapidly.  Where Lupe first reached the saddle, she came upon a final big stand of gnarled old pine trees.  The day was warm and bright.  The shade provided by this last clump of odd old pines was welcome.  Lupe and SPHP took a break.

As near as SPHP could tell, Lupe had reached the official end of the Skyline Trail.

Lupe takes a break beneath an isolated stand of gnarled old pines she came upon as she reached the saddle. She was at, or very near, the official end of the Skyline Trail.

The Skyline Trail may have officially ended, but the sign and maps were right.  A good trail continued on across the saddle toward the mountain to the E.  (Note: As far as Lupe was concerned, this continuation of the trail going on up to the Mystery Hills was all part of the same Skyline Trail, and will be referred to as such for the remainder of this post.)  When Lupe’s break under the gnarled pines was over, Lupe and SPHP pressed onward.

Not far from the pines, Lupe passed by another trail branching off to the N on its way through the saddle.  The American Dingo ignored the side trail and started climbing the mountain to the E.

A good trail continued beyond the gnarled pines across the S end of the saddle area. Lupe ignored a side trail that branched off to the N (L), and continued up the hill seen directly ahead. This extension of the Skyline Trail eventually climbed around to the S (R) side of the hill. Photo looks E.

Lupe still had nearly 1,000 feet of elevation gain to go in order to reach her first peakbagging goal, North Mystery Hills (3,284 ft.).  She encountered a short stretch of rock climbing near the base of the mountain, but was soon easily past it.  Lupe came to no further complications along the trail, which now worked around to the S side of the slope, as it continued E.  Another higher saddle could be seen ahead.

Lupe on her way up to a higher saddle(Center). Lupe was heading for North Mystery Hills, seen on the R. Photo looks SE.

On the way to the next saddle, Lupe already had some splendid unobstructed views.

Lupe already had splendid views on her way up the Skyline Trail to the next saddle. Jean Lake is in the foreground. A portion of much larger Skilak Lake is in the distance. Photo looks S.
Far away across Cook Inlet, Lupe could see impressive snow-capped peaks. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

The path up to the higher saddle was a long, steady grind, but the pace of elevation gain wasn’t bad, certainly nothing like Lupe had faced on the way to the first saddle.  Upon reaching the higher saddle, the trail turned S, climbing more aggressively up the mountain.

When the Skyline Trail finally started leveling out, a rock outcropping larger and higher than any other nearby point was a short distance ahead.  Lupe went over to it.  She had reached the N end of the North Mystery Hills summit ridge.  The views were fabulous!

Here, at the end of the climb up from the 2nd saddle, Lupe reached the N end of the North Mystery Hills summit ridge. A metal box containing a register was tucked among the rocks on the E (R) side of this high point. (Close to the backpack.) The unnamed peak in the background is nearly as high as North Mystery Hills and is located on the other (N) side of the 2nd saddle Lupe had just come from. Photo looks N.
Looking down on Peak 2851 (L) from North Mystery Hills. Peak 2851 is on the NW side of the first big saddle Lupe reached where she took a break among the gnarled old pines. Flatlands of northern Kenai Peninsula are seen in the distance. Photo looks NW.
Hideout Hill (2,869 ft.) from North Mystery Hills. Part of Skilak Lake is seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.

Right away, Lupe discovered a metal box tucked among the rocks on the E side of the rock outcropping.  The box contained a register.  SPHP entered Lupe’s name on it to secure the Carolina Dog’s place in North Mystery Hills history.

Although it had been a warm, calm, sunny day lower down, a fairly strong, cool E wind was blowing up here.  While SPHP was entering her name in the register, Lupe found a big rock to hide behind.  She curled up on the W side of it to escape the wind.

While SPHP entered her name in the register, Lupe curled up behind a big rock to escape the E wind. Lupe hadn’t quite reached the true summit of North Mystery Hills yet. The true summit is the high point beyond Lupe on the L. The similarly colored more distant hill is her next peakbagging goal, Mystery Hills Central. Photo looks SE.

Lupe had seen a number of people along the Skyline Trail, but hadn’t come across anyone since leaving the first saddle.  However, while she was still curled up out of the wind, and SPHP was busy gazing off into the distance, a young man showed up.  His name was Patrick Metzger.

Patrick was quite friendly to Lupe and SPHP.  Soon, Patrick and SPHP were engaged in conversation.  Patrick wasn’t an Alaskan native.  He moved to Soldotna a few years ago, where he works for Univar, a global chemical distribution business.  Like Lupe, he enjoys the outdoors and climbing mountains in his spare time, so there was a lot to talk about.

Patrick shared his love of Alaska with Lupe and SPHP.  He recommended several places Lupe might want to consider visiting while she was here.  By the time Patrick needed to move on, nearly an hour had gone by.  The visit with Patrick had been fun, but Lupe needed to get going, too.

Technically, Lupe still hadn’t reached the true summit of North Mystery Hills, but it wasn’t far away.  A short, windy stroll to the SE brought Lupe to the NW end of a small hill on the broader ridgeline.  The small hill proved to have two high points on it, one at each end of a little ridgeline, sort of a minor summit ridge up on the greater summit area.  Lupe visited both high points.  It was a close contest, but the true summit seemed to be at the SE end where Lupe found a small cairn.

Lupe reaches the NW high point on the minor summit ridge. This point was in contention with another spot nearby to the SE for true summit of North Mystery Hills. Mystery Hills Central is on the L. The SE end of Skilak Lake is on the R. Photo looks S.
Lupe stands in the wind at the NW high point of the minor summit ridge. This might possibly have been the true summit of North Mystery Hills, but the high point in view to the SE (Center) appeared to be marginally higher. Photo looks SE.

The trail didn’t even go to the likely true summit at the SE end of the minor summit ridge.  Instead, the trail skirted below it to the SW.  Lupe left the trail to make the short side trip to the true summit.  A pitifully small cairn was the only indication Lupe had finally reached her North Mystery Hills (3,284 ft.) peakbagging goal.

Success! Lupe sits in the E breeze at the true summit of North Mystery Hills. Her next peakbagging goal, Mystery Hills Central, is in view along the ridgeline. Photo looks SSE.
Looking back to the NW from the North Mystery Hills true summit. The other candidate for true summit at the NW end of the minor summit ridge Lupe is on is seen straight up from her rump. The high point where she first reached the broader summit ridge is at the far end straight up from her head. That’s over where Lupe found the metal box containing the register.
Mystery Hills East (3,478 ft.)(Center) from North Mystery Hills. Mystery Hills East is the highest of the Mystery Hills. The trail Lupe was following (an extension of the Skyline Trail) goes all the way to Mystery Hills East, but Lupe didn’t make it that far. Peeking over the R shoulder of Mystery Hills East is Round Mountain (3,901 ft.). Photo looks ESE.

Having finally reached the summit of North Mystery Hills, Lupe’s next objective was Mystery Hills Central (3,291 ft.), still 1.25 miles away to the SSE.  Getting there was simply a matter of following the Skyline Trail on a beautiful, fun ridge hike.  Lupe had splendid sweeping views along the entire route.  She passed over a series of rocky highpoints, as well as lower, gentler terrain, on the way.

Looking back at the summit of North Mystery Hills on the way to Mystery Hills Central. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe takes a break on a rocky high point on her way to Mystery Hills Central. Her ears point up toward Mystery Hills East. Photo looks E.
Approaching Mystery Hills Central. Photo looks SSE.

When Lupe arrived at the top of Mystery Hills Central, she found a roomy, nearly flat, summit area.  It also had two candidates for true summit, separated by only a short distance.  Lupe found a survey benchmark at the E high point, and a modest cairn at the W one.

Despite the still rather annoyingly strong E wind, Lupe and SPHP paused on Mystery Hills Central for a while to appreciate the grand 360° views.

The survey benchmark on Mystery Hills Central.
Kenai River valley from Mystery Hills Central summit. Photo looks SE.
Lupe enduring the stiff E wind up on Mystery Hills Central. What a tremendous view of Skilak Lake to the SW!
Looking S toward distant glories of the Kenai Peninsula.
S using the telephoto lens.

The topo map showed the Skyline Trail continuing on from Mystery Hills Central, looping around for miles, still following the ridgeline.  Eventually the trail goes all the way to Mystery Hills East (3,478 ft.).  Lupe could see part of the trail from above.

One look was enough to convince SPHP that Lupe didn’t have the time, and SPHP didn’t have the energy, to press on to Mystery Hills East.  That part of the trail had some serious elevation gains and losses along the way, in addition to being nearly another 3 miles long.

The trail to Mystery Hills East can be seen below on the hill on the R. It follows the ridgeline, eventually going over the next hill toward the L. Round Mountain is in view in the distance on the L. Photo looks ESE.

So this was it, Lupe had come as far along the Skyline Trail as she was going to.  Mystery Hills Central was the end of the line.  The sun said Lupe would soon have to start back.  Lupe and SPHP lingered a little while longer together on Mystery Hills Central.

Lupe at the Mystery Hills Central cairn. The ridge route back to North Mystery Hills (Center) is beyond her. Photo looks NW.
View to the NE.
The Kenai River on its way to Skilak Lake. Photo looks SW.

The time came to say good-bye to Mystery Hills Central.  Lupe started back the way she had come.

Starting back toward North Mystery Hills (Center). Photo looks NNW.
The Mystery Dingo of the Mystery Hills up on the ridgeline. Photo looks E.

As the sun sank lower toward the horizon, the E wind finally began to relent, losing some of its strength.  Lupe had a wonderful time exploring the ridge along the Skyline Trail.  It was a relaxing evening trek, surrounded by beauty on all sides, high in the Mystery Hills.

Lupe returned to the true summit of North Mystery Hills.  From there, she went on to the NW end of the broad summit ridge, back to the high rocky point where she had first discovered the metal box containing the register, and met Patrick Metzger only 4 hours ago.

Lupe returns to the true summit of North Mystery Hills. Photo looks NW.
Back at the far NW end of the North Mystery Hills summit area. Lupe is at the high point where she found the metal box containing the register, and met Patrick Metzger a few hours ago. Photo looks NNW.
Looper in the evening sunlight, prior to starting back down the Skyline Trail from North Mystery Hills. Photo looks N.
Lower Peak 2851 is partially hidden by the slope on the R. The Skyline Trail can be seen leading back down this slope on its way from the high saddle to the first saddle where the stand of old gnarled pines was. The Sterling Highway is on the L. Photo looks NW.

Although Lupe hadn’t seen anyone on the Skyline Trail after Patrick left, once Lupe began her descent from the Mystery Hills, she met a few hikers on their way up.  They were hoping to catch the sunset from North Mystery Hills.  To SPHP, it looked like the sun was going to sink into a cloud bank.  The sunset was likely to be more silver and gray than colorful.

Looking WSW on the way down to the first saddle. Skilak Lake can be seen beyond Hideout Hill on the L. A silvery Cook Inlet shimmers on the far horizon.
Jean Lake and more distant Skilak Lake. Photo looks SW.

What those hikers actually saw at sunset, Lupe never knew.  By then she was far down steep Skyline Trail in the encroaching gloom of the dark forest at the base of the Mystery Hills.  (8:49 PM)

On the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills.

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