Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 – Harney Peak & Little Devils Tower (9-7-15)

Harney Peak at 7,242 feet is the highest mountain in the Black Hills and the entire state of South Dakota.  Located in the Black Elk Wilderness, it is a very popular hiking destination and can be approached from half a dozen different trailheads.  One of the shortest (about 3.5 miles one way) and most popular routes is on Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park.  Lots of people don’t realize how easy it is to add variety to the trip without significantly increasing the distance by making a loop back to Sylvan Lake via trails No. 3 & No. 4 and including an ascent of Little Devil’s Tower along the way like Lupe did on this day.

After 27 days spent on Lupe’s great summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, Lupe and SPHP finally returned home on the afternoon of 9-4-15.  However, the fun wasn’t set to end quite yet.  It was the Friday before Labor Day weekend, which in 2015 came as late as it possibly can with Labor Day falling on September 7th.  Lupe’s uncle Joe, aunt Andrea and cousin Dusty had already arrived at her Grandma’s house the previous evening.  Aunt Mush and uncle David were due to arrive on Sunday the 6th.  So Lupe got to go with SPHP over to Grandma’s house every evening from the 4th through the 7th to hang out with Dusty and all the gang, which she really enjoyed.

The high point of Labor Day weekend, though, was Labor Day itself.  On Labor Day, uncle Joe and cousin Dusty wanted to go with Lupe and SPHP to climb Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the always popular high point of South Dakota.  Of course, Lupe and SPHP were both more than willing to oblige.  So a little before 10:00 AM on Labor Day, SPHP parked the G6 near Sylvan Lake Lodge, and everyone piled out.

A short trek led down to the cool shady woods below Sylvan Lake dam.  From there Lupe and the gang followed the lakeside trail up around the N and then E sides of scenic Sylvan Lake.  Shortly before reaching the swimming beach (where dogs aren’t allowed), Dusty was ready for a swim.  Joe tossed a stick into the lake to give her swim a purpose.  Dusty was very pleased to have the opportunity to retrieve the stick.

Dusty takes a dip while retrieving a stick for Joe.
Dusty takes a dip in Sylvan Lake while retrieving a stick for Joe.

Once Dusty was sufficiently cooled off, Lupe’s whole troop continued on past the swimming beach to Trail No. 9.  The trail soon proved to be very busy with Labor Day hikers, the most crowded SPHP has ever seen it.  There were quite a few dogs of various descriptions enjoying the trail, too, so Lupe and Dusty had ample opportunities to stop and sniff with interesting new acquaintances.

Maybe 0.5 mile from Sylvan Lake, there are some rock ledges where Harney first comes into view.  Lupe’s little pack paused here for a short photo op.

Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe on the rock ledges with Harney Peak in the background. Photo looks E.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.

Trail No. 9 goes all the way to the summit, or at least to the short spur trail that leads to the summit.  Lots of people and dogs were coming and going.  With all the activity, it didn’t seem like very long before Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were at the spiral stairway just before reaching the lookout tower at the top.

The first few times Lupe had been to Harney Peak, she was scared of the metal stairs, because she could look right through the grate down to the rocks below.  Back then, SPHP had to carry the nervous dingo over the stairs.  Lupe still doesn’t entirely trust these stairs, but with a little encouragement, she navigated them on her own.  If they bothered Dusty, she didn’t show it.

Upon reaching the lookout tower, everyone first went out to the viewing platform next to the tower.  SPHP held Lupe up above the rock wall so she could see the views.  A little later on, after SPHP put her down, she suddenly leaped up onto the rock wall so she could see all by herself.  SPHP made her get down so she couldn’t fall off.   Meanwhile, Joe went and climbed the short steep stairs (virtually a ladder) up to the top of the lookout tower.

Joe and Dusty on the viewing platform next to the Harney Peak lookout tower.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.

Lupe doesn’t like the way the metal grating that forms the floor of the viewing platform feels on her paws, so she was soon done at the lookout tower.  Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP headed down to the tower’s basement and out to a path leading over to the big granite outcropping to the W of the summit.  It was less busy and more peaceful over there, although a bit breezy.  It was a good place to pause for a snack while admiring the views.

Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney's summit.
Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney’s summit.

Lupe and Dusty were quite enthusiastic about sharing the Cliff bar SPHP brought out of the pack, and the Kind bars Joe took out of his pack.  Dusty ate some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild too, with evident relish.  She even polished off SPHP’s apple core, although that was a step too far for Lupe.  American Dingoes can be picky at times.  Both dogs helped lighten SPHP’s pack by slurping up plenty of water to wash it all down with.

Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe & Joe
Lupe & Joe
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.

A trip up to Harney Peak on or near Labor Day is becoming a tradition.  On September 2, 2014 (the day after Labor Day), Joe, Dusty, Lupe & SPHP were up here, too.  In 2014, Joe had called his son Matthew from Harney Peak, since it was Matt’s birthday.  This time he called his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin.

Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey in Wisconsin, from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats becoming a Labor Day tradition.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats on Harney Peak becoming a Labor Day tradition.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil's Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.

With snacking, sight-seeing and social obligations completed, it was time to head back down from Harney Peak over the spiral stairway, which Lupe again navigated successfully, back to Trail No. 9.  Quite near the bottom of the stairs were some horses that had brought people up the trail.  Lupe was a good Carolina Dog and did not bark at them, although it was tempting.  Dusty paid no attention to the horses.

The undisturbed horses Lupe didn't bark at.
The undisturbed horses Lupe didn’t bark at.

Maybe 10 minutes or so down from Harney’s summit, there is a rock ledge with a great view to the S of Peak 6735.  Lupe graciously posed for a couple of photos from here.

A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.
A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.

Lupe with Peak 6735 in the background 9-7-15Rather than head straight back down Trail No. 9 all the way to Sylvan Lake, Joe and Dusty were willing to explore the trails over to the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) and possibly climb Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), which neither of them had done before.  This had the advantage of showing them some new territory while making a loop back to Sylvan Lake.  So Lupe and her troop took Trail No. 3 where it met up with Trail No. 9.

Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.

A relatively short trek on Trail No. 3 led to Trail No. 4, which passes to the N of the Cathedral Spires over to a little saddle between the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.  Trail No. 4 goes over this pass heading S where there are some close up views of the Cathedral Spires.

The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.
The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.  Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.

It isn’t far from the saddle to a spur trail that goes perhaps 0.25 mile to Little Devils Tower.  Most of the spur trail is an easy hike along a scenic ridge.  There is one relatively short section of annoyingly steep trail with a lot of loose rock on it, but it soon ends at a little saddle between big granite rocks.

A left turn at the saddle reveals a narrow crevasse in the granite.  This crevasse is marked by a painted blue diamond.  Blue and white diamonds mark the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower.   This involves some scrambling up the granite, but even relatively small children can do it with a bit of help.  The rough granite provides good footing and there isn’t much exposure most of the way.  Naturally Lupe, Joe, Dusty and SPHP all made it to the top of Little Devils Tower.

Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak and St. Elmo Peak.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) (most distant large rock outcropping at center of photo) and St. Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.) (smallish looking peak at left center beyond the dark rock hump).

From Little Devils Tower, it was just a matter of following the spur trail back to Trail No. 4 and then continuing SW on down the valley.  Trail No. 4 led to the Little Devils Tower trailhead on Hwy 89 (Needles Highway – the Cathedral Spires are also called the Needles).  The trail continues though, another 0.5 mile or so, and leads back to the picnic ground on Sylvan Lake.  Once back at Sylvan Lake, Dusty was ready for another swim with just a little encouragement from Joe and another stick.Joe & Dusty at Sylvan Lake 9-7-15

Dusty’s 2nd swim of the day and another stick rescued.

While Joe and Dusty were engaged with sticks and water, Lupe and SPHP were up on the rocks taking a few pics of the lake.

Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
Looking S at a large rock off shore from the swimming beach. Sylvan Lake is a popular place to swim in late summer.

By about 4:30 PM, Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were all back at the G6.  It had been a great day spent together, but was now time to head back to Grandma’s house for a lasagna dinner.  Of course, Lupe had some!  Carolina Dogs like Italian food!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 was Lupe’s 6th time up Harney Peak and 4th time up Little Devils Tower.  It was Joe’s 3rd time and Dusty’s 2nd time up Harney, and their 1st time up Little Devils Tower.  For SPHP, we just don’t know anymore.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 131 – Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) & Little Devil’s Tower (5-30-15)

May, 2015 has been a wonderful month for the Black Hills of South Dakota.  After a very dry start to the year, May brought snow and rain in abundance.  Now everything is greening up, looking beautiful and the lakes and streams are full of water.  Lupe, however, has been rather bored much of May.  The wet weather prevented her from getting out like she is used to.  This day, however, promised to be clear, bright and perfect for a long day in the hills.

SPHP chose Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the highest mountain in the Black Hills as Lupe’s primary goal for the day, with a side trip to Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) afterwards.  SPHP made this choice for three reasons: (1) it’s always fun to climb the highest mountain around, (2) the 360° views from Harney are hard to beat in the Black Hills, and (3) time may be running out to climb Harney Peak again before the name gets changed to Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls).  Lupe cares not one whit about the name of the mountain, she was just excited to be going out on an adventure again.

SPHP parked the G6 at the Willow Creek trailhead (accessed from Hwy 244 about 5 miles NW of Mt. Rushmore near the Palmer Gulch KOA) at 8:51 AM.  At 47 °F, it was still a bit cool out, but the skies were almost completely cloudless and a brilliant blue.  It would warm up fast.  The trail up to Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) from the Willow Creek trailhead is longer than the most popular route, which starts at Sylvan Lake, but Lupe would encounter far fewer people and there are some great lookout points along the way.

Lupe near Willow Creek Trail No. 8 approaching Elkhorn Mountain.

Lupe took the portion of Trail No. 8 that is closest to Hwy 244 to Trail No. 9.  She followed Trail No. 9 past Elkhorn Mountain and then all the way up to the summit of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls).  She only saw 3 people and 1 dog (by the name of “Doc”) the entire way until reaching the short spur on Trail No. 9 that goes up to the to the top of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls).

Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) from near Trail No. 9 which ultimately leads to the summit.
Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) from near Trail No. 9 which ultimately leads to the summit.
As Trail No. 9 rises to about the level of Elkhorn Mountain, there are lots of lookout points like this one along the way. This photo looks S.
As Trail No. 9 rises to about the level of Elkhorn Mountain, there are lots of lookout points like this one along the way. This photo looks S.

[Note:  SPHP sincerely hopes that (Making of Owls) gets dropped from the official name if Hinhan Kaga is adopted.  Nothing says this name was created by a board of bureaucrats as much as an official 5 word name in two different languages including a pair of parenthesis!  Tired of typing all that already.  Better to let the meaning of Hinhan Kaga go unknown to those who don’t have any interest in googling it, than to adopt such an unwieldy name.  SPHP is setting an example and dropping (Making of Owls) here and now.]

Peakbagger fans, that's Peak 6735 in the distance.
Peakbagger fans, that’s Peak 6735 in the distance.
Looking SE now. The square block of rock on the left in the distance is the back side of Mt. Rushmore.
Looking SE now. The square block of rock on the left in the distance is the back side of Mt. Rushmore (5,725 ft.) .  (Not the rock at the very left, but the larger one beyond and a bit to the right.)
Now looking W. Gap Lode Peak is shown in the right half of this shot. The closer, higher stuff is part of the N slope of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Now looking W.  Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) is shown in the center of the right half of this shot. The closer, higher stuff on the left is part of the N slope of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Lupe in the flat rocks area. These photos are all from the portion of the Harney Peak Trail No. 9 that is NE of Harney Peak. This is a longer approach to the summit than taking this same Trail No. 9 from the W at Sylvan Lake, which is the shorter and most popular route.
Lupe in the flat rocks area. These photos are all from the portion of the Harney Peak Trail No. 9 that is NE of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga. This is a longer approach to the summit than taking this same Trail No. 9 from the W at Sylvan Lake, which is the shorter and most popular route.
Lupe still in the flat rocks area. This photo is looking WSW towards Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Lupe still in the flat rocks area. This photo is looking WSW towards Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Peak 6735 from a bit higher now.
Peak 6735 from a bit higher now.  Lupe enjoyed drinking out of the water holes in the granite.
Gaining elevation, Lupe is now getting close to the No. 9 spur trail to the summit. Looking ESE from here. The back side of Mt. Rushmore is visible again.

However, hordes of people and dogs were coming up the portion of Trail No. 9 that comes up from Sylvan Lake.  The last spur of Trail No. 9 to the top of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga was just plain crowded.  Everyone was in good spirits, though, and having a good time.  After Lupe reached the lookout tower, Lupe and SPHP went down over to the far end of the massive granite W shoulder of the mountain.

Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga lookout tower at the summit. Lupe has already been there by now. Lupe’s 5th successful climb of the mountain!
The little reservoir on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
The little reservoir on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
A happy Carolina dog or American Dingo on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
A happy Carolina dog or American Dingo on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Looking S towards Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil's Tower (R) from Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Looking S towards Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) which all look like part of the same ridge in this shot from Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.  Little Devil’s Tower is where Lupe was headed next passing close by the Cathedral Spires on the way.

There, Lupe had some Taste of the Wild and water.  She tried laying down to rest, but the granite wasn’t very comfy – in fact, not comfy at all.  She wanted to chase chipmunks, but SPHP wouldn’t allow that with cliffs all around.  Lupe posed for a few pictures and watched chipmunks.  The views were magnificent, and SPHP stayed admiring them for some time.  SPHP chatted with 3 geology students and took pictures of the 3 of them together when asked.  Then, with Little Devil’s Tower still on the itinerary, it was time to move on.

Heading back down Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga on Trail No. 9 heading towards Sylvan Lake is this view of Peak 6735 to the S.
Soon after starting back down Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga on Trail No. 9 towards Sylvan Lake is this view of Peak 6735 to the S.  Crazy SPHP wanted to climb Peak 6735 this day too, but there wasn’t time.  Lupe and SPHP have been there once before though.  There is no trail, but there are a million beetle-killed pine trees to climb over, under, around or through to get there.  Very time consuming!
Approaching the Cathedral Spires. SPHP forgets if this is part of Trail No. 3 or No. 4.
Approaching the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). SPHP forgets if this is part of Trail No. 3 or No. 4.
American Dingo Lupe spotted near Cathedral Spires! Little Devil's Tower is o the right.
American Dingo Lupe spotted near Cathedral Spires! Little Devil’s Tower is the big rock farthest to the right still a little way off.
Lupe above Trail No. 4 near its junction with the Cathedral Spires Trail.
Lupe above Trail No. 4 near its junction with the Cathedral Spires Trail.

From Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, Lupe and SPHP went back down the spur trail to the rest of Trail No. 9 and started following it towards Sylvan Lake.  Before long Lupe reached the junction with Trail No. 3 and took it.  Trail No. 3 led to Trail No. 4 and then to the Little Devil’s Tower trail.  Lupe saw only a few people on Trails No. 3 & 4.  It was a different story on the Little Devil’s Tower trail.  Even a two year old girl was clambering up Little Devil’s Tower.  At the summit, Lupe and SPHP were never alone for more than a minute or two, but at least there weren’t so many people as up at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.

Lupe's 3rd successful summit of Little Devil's Tower. This photo looks N back at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, where she had just come from.
Lupe’s 3rd successful summit of Little Devil’s Tower. This photo looks N back at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, where she had just come from.
Cathedral Spires from Little Devil's Tower. The last bit of climb up Little Devil's Tower is a rock scramble that isn't too hard. A two year old girl was making her way up the mountain with help over the tough spots.
Cathedral Spires from Little Devil’s Tower. The last bit of climb up Little Devil’s Tower is a rock scramble that isn’t too hard. A two year old girl was making her way up the mountain with help over the tough spots.
The beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota as seen looking NW from Little Devil's Tower.
The beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota as seen looking NW from Little Devil’s Tower.
One mighty fine looking Loopster up on Little Devil's Tower.
Pretty girl Loopster up on Little Devil’s Tower.

The views from Little Devil’s Tower are almost as grand as those from Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.  Lupe posed for some more photos.  She finished off the rest of the Taste of the Wild.  She wanted to chase chipmunks again, but the summit area is considerably smaller than up at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, and cliffs were close at hand in almost all directions.  Lupe again had to settle for chipmunk watching while SPHP gazed out at the Black Hills.

When it was time to go, Lupe retraced the trail taken to Little Devil’s Tower as far back as Trail No. 9.  There Lupe and SPHP took Trail No. 9 heading down towards Sylvan Lake.  Lupe followed Trail No. 9 only as far as the intersection with the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 spur trail for horses.  Lupe and SPHP had never been on this spur trail for horses before.  No one else was on it.  The path looked seldom used by people or horses.  It wound through some very scenic large granite formations and offered up pretty nice views of Little Devil’s Tower in places.  Most of the way it was close to the upper reaches of Palmer Creek, too.  With all the recent rains, Palmer Creek had good flow in it.  Lupe could have a drink whenever she wanted.

On her way back now to the G6. Lupe on Trail No. 9 not far from the junction with the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 horse spur. Little Devil’s Tower in the background.
Little Devil's Tower is at the left. This view was taken from the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 horse spur.
Little Devil’s Tower is at the left. This view was taken from the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 horse spur.
Lupe in Palmer Creek.
Lupe wading in Palmer Creek.

The spur trail went about a mile before reaching the main Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. Lupe followed the main Trail No. 2 for miles back to a junction with Trail No. 8 a short distance from the Willow Creek trailhead.  The sun was already behind the hills by the time Lupe reached the G6 again.  It was 8:09 PM and 58 °F.  Lupe had been gone for over 11 hours.  She had made a huge loop around Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, plus taken side trips up to the summit of it and Little Devil’s Tower.  Although SPHP was feeling the effects of the outing, Lupe was still full of energy.  She stood up with her nose out the window of the G6 sniffing the air most of the way home.

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