Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 196 – Devil’s Slide, Cascade Falls & Tepee Mountain (3-19-17)

Start (7:46 AM, 50°F)  J. H. Keith Memorial Park, Cascade Springs, Hwy 71 S of Hot Springs.

Nothing like starting the day off with a little dread.  Upon arrival, Lupe understood the situation immediately.  Another expedition, another cactus-infested mountain.  When would this ever end?  Lupe’s soft Dingo ears drooped.

Not many more of these lower peaks below cactus line to go, Looper.  You’ll be alright.  Once you’ve done them, you won’t ever have to return.  Besides, you’ve actually had some really fun times on these peaks, haven’t you?  Come on, it won’t take long.  I’ll help you dodge the cacti.  What do you say?

What do I say?  I say, OK, fine, but you ought to join in the fun.  About time you went barefoot, too, SPHP!  It’s a shame you’ve been missing out on the whole, complete joyful experience of all these barefoot treks through cacti lately.  Besides, it might be amusing to see human ears droop for a change.

Heh, I appreciate your concern Loop, but think I’ll pass on that.  Just a matter of personal vanity, you understand.  I don’t look nearly as good as you do with droopy ears.  Come on, let’s go!

The E slope wasn’t bad.  Definitely better than the optional route up the barren sunbaked WSW slope would have been.  That might well have been a cactus nightmare.  As it was, Lupe hardly encountered any cacti until she was at the top of the ridgeline.  By then, she was almost to the summit of Devil’s Slide Mountain (3,965 ft.).

Loop nears the summit of Devil’s Slide Mountain. She’d hardly encountered any cactus at all during her climb up the E slope. Photo looks NW.

As expected, cactus was thick on the other side of the ridge.  Lupe stayed mostly toward the E to avoid it.  She quickly made her way to the summit.  The top of Devil’s Slide Mountain consisted of an assortment of large boulders resting on a prominent knob along the ridgeline.

No trees were up here to block the views.  Lupe could see in every direction.

Lupe reaches the top of Devil’s Slide Mountain. With no trees around, she had fabulous views in every direction. Photo looks NNW along the spine of the ridgeline.
Lupe at the true summit. The steep slopes below the curved ridge in the distance on the L are known as Horseshoe Bend. Photo looks SSE.
Highway 71 is seen below on its way to Hot Springs, SD. The high ridge on the R is part of the Seven Sisters Range. Lupe had been climbing hills over there only a few weeks ago on Expedition No. 193. Back then, everything had been white with snow. Photo looks NNE.
Lupe on the very highest rock. Horseshoe Bend in view on the L. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe’s adventures had taken her to the top of Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.) only a week ago on Expedition No. 195.  SPHP thought she ought to be able to see the summit from here beyond Horseshoe Bend, a steep sharply curving slope along the NW face of the mountain.

Loop had an unobstructed view of the entire length of Horseshoe Bend from Devil’s Slide Mountain, but the light was a little glary.  Horseshoe Bend was far enough away so SPHP couldn’t tell if the actual summit of Flagpole Mountain was in view or hidden behind the top of the ridge.  Binoculars would have solved the puzzle, but SPHP didn’t have any along.

Although Lupe had a great view of the entire length of Horseshoe Bend, SPHP couldn’t tell if she could see the actual summit of Flagpole Mountain from Devil’s Slide or not. SPHP suspected it was just out of view beyond the top of the ridge. Photo looks SSE.

Not all of the views from Devil’s Slide Mountain were of more hills and mountains.  To the S and SW, high plains stretched away to the horizon beyond the Black Hills.  Closer by, Lupe could see Cascade Creek in the valley below.

High plains stretch away to the horizon SW of Devil’s Slide Mountain. Hwy 71 is in view below on its way to Ardmore, SD and Nebraska. Cascade Creek is to the R of the highway. Photo looks SW.

It was too early in the day to take a real break, but Lupe and SPHP hung around up on top of Devil’s Slide Mountain for a while enjoying the views.  Eventually it was time to press on.  Lupe had more adventures in store.

Lupe lingers at the summit of Devil’s Slide Mountain. Photo looks S.
Time to go, Looper! Come on down! Photo looks S with a little help from the telephoto lens.
Starting down.

Lupe returned to the G6 (9:16 AM, 57°F).  Her next stop, Cascade Falls, was only a few miles away.  The picnic ground was closed and barred shut to vehicles this time of year, but there was plenty of room to park the G6 at the turnoff.

Lupe went around the gate, through the picnic ground, and down the steps leading to Cascade Creek and the falls.  She had a drink, waded around, and enjoyed the view of Devil’s Slide Mountain from below.

Devil’s Slide Mountain from Cascade Creek above the main falls. Photo looks NE.
The true summit of Devil’s Slide Mountain is the high point seen on the L.
Yep, this is it – Cascade Falls! More like rapids really, but they feature a great swimming hole below and some fine wading, including a number of much smaller pools to soak in, above. Photo looks W.
A look downstream. Photo looks SSW.
Aren’t you coming in SPHP? Photo looks NW.
Cascade Falls as seen from downstream. Devil’s Slide Mountain is in view on the R. Photo looks NNE.

After visiting Cascade Falls, Lupe’s next stop was only a mile farther S at the Cheyenne River.  A sign S of the river told about the Wood Stage Station, which used to be close by.  More than a century ago, a stagecoach route ran from Sydney, Nebraska to Deadwood, South Dakota.  The sign mentioned General Custer’s 1874 Expedition to the Black Hills.

This historical marker about the Wood Stage Station is just S of the Cheyenne River on the E side of Hwy 71.

Custer’s only expedition to the Black Hills made him even more famous due to the discovery of gold.  Despite being on her 196th Black Hills expedition, Loop hasn’t become famous, but then she’s never found any gold.  SPHP sort of wishes she would, but understands that American Dingoes are more squirrel oriented than gold oriented.

At least Lupe’s relations with the Sioux nation are far superior to General Custer’s.

The Cheyenne River flows out of Wyoming around the S end of the Black Hills on its way to the Missouri River. Photo looks WSW from the Hwy 71 bridge.

Lupe’s next peakbagging objective was Tepee Mountain (3,970 ft.) on the S bank of the Cheyenne River a couple miles W of Angostura Reservoir.  Lupe had seen Tepee Mountain for the first time only a week ago on Expedition No. 195.  From Flagpole Mountain, Tepee Mountain appeared as a much lower, heavily forested ridge.

SPHP turned E off Hwy 71 onto Maitland Road five miles S of the Cheyenne River.  According to SPHP’s old Black Hills USFS map, Tepee Mountain is on BLM land, but private ranches are nearby.  SPHP had to look for access for Lupe.

More than a mile SSW of Tepee Mountain, Lupe and SPHP stopped by the headquarters of the Tepee Creek Ranch.  Two ranch dogs were eager for Lupe to come out and play, but she had to stay in the G6 while SPHP chatted with the rancher’s wife.

The wife was friendly.  She didn’t seem opposed to Lupe crossing the ranch to climb Tepee Mountain, but mentioned that cows were calving and it had been so warm and dry out lately snakes were already out.  She suggested that SPHP check out the possibility of public access along the Cheyenne River from Angostura Reservoir before resorting to crossing the ranch.  SPHP agreed to do that.

Lupe visited the S shore of Angostura Reservoir, as requested by the Tepee Creek rancher’s wife, but found no public access leading W along the Cheyenne River. Photo looks N.

Five miles of dusty gravel roads brought Lupe to a boat launch on the S shore of Angostura.  Immediately to the W was a mobile home park, which appeared to be bordered by more private ranchlands.  Lupe found no sign of public access to Tepee Mountain from here.

Lupe and SPHP left Angostura Reservoir.  An approach from Maitland Road would have to do.  SPHP found a spot to park the G6 (10:53 AM, 72°F).  The summit of Tepee Mountain was more than 2 miles N from here.

Lupe was none too keen on starting the trek.  The first half of her journey was through hilly, forested terrain.  The forest was a mix of junipers and Ponderosa pines.  Junipers thrive where it’s dry.  Lupe associates them with cactus.  She’s right, too.  Cacti were present from almost the very start.

The forested hillsides didn’t have much cactus, but wound around a long series of ravines in crazy directions.  The uneven ground was tiring to traverse.  Higher up, the terrain was much more level, but many areas were so dry on top that even the junipers couldn’t survive.  The sunny, exposed terrain was full of cactus.

Lupe in the mixed forest of pines and junipers. There was a lot less cactus in the forest than up on the sunny top of these low hills, but Lupe came to many ravines. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP used her usual technique for dealing with cactus.  SPHP scouted ahead looking for a safe route forward.  When SPHP sat on the ground, Lupe took it as the signal she could advance that far.  Rinse and repeat.  Where there was too much cactus, SPHP carried Lupe far enough to get to a less infested area.

Progress was slow, but steady.  At first, Lupe and SPHP stayed mostly on the high ground along the edge of the trees.  Later, Lupe tried staying more in the forest.  Traveling each type of terrain had its benefits and drawbacks.  It was an extraordinarily warm day for March.  The Carolina Dog was thrilled to find a small rapidly shrinking patch of melting snow in the forest on the N side of a hill!

Lupe was thrilled to find this small rapidly melting snow bank on the N slope of a hill. It was a very hot day out for March. The cold, wet snow felt marvelous!

As wearisome as the forested hills were, SPHP was not looking forward to reaching the end of them.  From Maitland Road, Lupe had already seen the S slopes of Tepee Mountain.  She would have to make a long, gradual climb up a barren, sun drenched slope.  SPHP feared Lupe would face an incredible concentration of cacti the entire way.

Lupe might have to be carried more than a mile to the top.

Tepee Mountain as seen from Maitland Road. The summit is the high point on the R. SPHP feared Lupe would encounter so much cactus on the barren S slope that she would have to be carried all the way to the top. Her route would take her up from the R side of this photo. Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.

The forest ended when Looper reached the N end of the low hills.  Now she faced open grasslands the rest of the way up Tepee Mountain.  Just ahead was a dirt road at the bottom of a shallow ravine that drained to the W.  Beyond the road was a barbed wire fence.  Lupe would have to cross both the road and the fence.  First, though, she followed the road uphill to the E.

Traveling this short section of dirt road up the ravine was easy.  Lupe was confident she wouldn’t encounter any cactus.  Near a junction of fences, she left the road and went under the fence to the N.  SPHP thought Lupe might be on BLM land now, but wasn’t certain.

Despite the heads up from the rancher’s wife, Lupe hadn’t seen a single cow or rattlesnake.  However, cows had clearly spent a lot of time in the pasture N of the fence.  This was great news for Lupe!  The cows had eaten everything down so there wasn’t much vegetation left.  Best of all, cows are apparently hard on cactus.  SPHP had feared this area would be totally infested; instead there was hardly any!

Lupe now N of the low forested hills seen behind her. This field had far less cactus in it than SPHP had feared. Lupe made relatively good time the rest of the way up Tepee Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe wasn’t convinced this barren ground was safe.  She insisted that SPHP continue to scout out the cactus situation ahead.  Overall, though, she made significantly faster progress.  She traveled up the long, gentle slope going NW, staying close to another barbed wire fence coming down the mountain.

As Lupe climbed higher, more cactus appeared – enough to slow things down again, but it wasn’t too bad.  The fence line turned N.  Lupe kept going NW until she came across a cattle trail that went N, too.

The cattle trail was like a super highway.  Lupe trotted along unworried and unhindered by cactus.  By the time the cattle trail curved E, Lupe was only 150 yards from the top of the mountain.  She found cactus again as soon as she left the trail, but SPHP guided her through it.  Lupe reached the summit of Tepee Mountain (3,790 ft.).  Sweet success!

The large summit area was mostly grassland.  Barren terrain sloped gradually away to the S and E.  Junipers and pines were scattered thinly along the edge of the steeper W slope.  The steepest drop off was to the N, where a thick line of trees blocked the view most places.  The highest rocks on the mountain were clustered in a small area near the NW corner of the summit.  Four or five different medium-sized rocks might have been the absolute highest point.

The most impressive view was toward the NW.  Lupe could see Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.).  She had been there only a week ago on Expedition No. 195.

Lupe reaches the summit of Tepee Mountain. The most impressive view was this look at Flagpole Mountain. Lupe had been there only a week ago on Expedition No. 195. Photo looks NW.
Looking N at some of the colorful cliffs E of Flagpole Mountain.
Lupe stands on the rock that SPHP thought might be the highest one, though 4 or 5 rocks nearby were about as high. Photo looks N.
Looking ESE. The high plains of western South Dakota go to the horizon.

Lupe was happy to reach the summit of Tepee Mountain.  After a few photos, she curled up in the shade of a juniper tree.  She had a great view of Flagpole Mountain while enjoying some Taste of the Wild.  It was an amazingly warm day.  Only mid-March and the temperature was somewhere in the 70’s!

Lupe rested in the shade of a juniper tree while having Taste of the Wild and enjoying this beautiful view of Flagpole Mountain (L). Photo looks NNW.

SPHP munched an apple and shared water with Lupe.  When the apple was gone, SPHP got up to wander around the summit area to see what else there was to see.  Lupe preferred not to move around much.  She was still worried about cactus.  Besides, she liked the shade of the juniper tree.  She was curious about what SPHP was up to, though.

Sometimes she peered out from her juniper tree stronghold to see what was going on.

Whatcha up to, SPHP? … Don’t worry Loop, just having a look around. … OK, but don’t wander off too far and leave me stuck here all alone up on this pincushion! Photo looks WNW.
SPHP had to wander a little E of the true summit to find a break in the trees big enough to provide this view of the Cheyenne River. Part of Angostura Reservoir is seen in the distance on the R. Photo looks NE.

Lupe soon decided she didn’t want to miss out on any of the views.  She came out from her juniper trees to join SPHP and pose in a few more photos.

Angostura Reservoir from Tepee Mountain. Photo looks NE.
Looking NW toward the true summit.
Still looking toward the true summit as a cloud passes overhead providing temporary shade. The big green junipers on the L are at the top of the mountain. Photo looks NW.
Looking W.
The view to the WNW.

At the conclusion of her scenic summit tour, Lupe wanted to go relax in the shade of the juniper tree some more.  SPHP went with her.  There was no rush.  The sun was high in the sky, and Lupe might never be on Tepee Mountain again.  Time enough to enjoy this unique moment, and seldom seen view of Flagpole Mountain.

SPHP petted Lupe; in turn, she licked SPHP’s hand.  Puffy white clouds sailed slowly through the pale blue sky overhead.  Lupe and SPHP were both happy.

Happy times on Tepee Mountain in the shade of the juniper tree.

As it always does, the time came to say good-bye to the mountain.  Lupe and SPHP started back to the G6.  Lupe followed the same route as before, except that when she reached the low, forested hills again, she stayed farther to the W and lower down.  Hidden on the N slopes of various ravines, she found half a dozen more patches of snow to eat and cool off on.

There were still cacti to deal with.  Lupe remained cautious.  SPHP helped guide her through, and carried her for short distances where necessary.  She finally reached Maitland Road again W of the G6, but it wasn’t far away (3:31 PM, 81°F).

Looking back at Tepee Mountain (Center) on the way to the G6. Photo looks NNW.

Over 80°F, in March!  Incredible!  On the way home, Lupe stopped again at Cascade Falls.  The thirsty Carolina Dog had a huge drink from the creek.  SPHP thought the water would be cold, but it was surprisingly, comfortably warm.  This time, SPHP joined Lupe wading around in Cascade Creek.

Lupe returned to Cascade Falls for a 2nd time on this incredibly warm March day. SPHP joined her wading in the surprisingly warm creek. Photo looks S.
For cactus weary paws, Lupe recommends wading in Cascade Creek! Photo looks N.

Expedition No. 196 was a success, but wasn’t entirely over until Lupe was done with her enthusiastic barking from the G6 at all the cows and horses she saw on the way home.  SPHP thought she deserved a special treat for braving the cactus on two more mountains today.  The Sonic Drive-Inn was advertising half price milkshakes after 8 PM.

Lupe had a good time being taken out to the Sonic Drive-Inn.  She was delighted when SPHP bought her a milkshake of her very own.  Lupe had chocolate.  SPHP had strawberry.  When the milkshakes were gone, it was time for nighty-night and dreaming together about the day’s adventures, and adventures yet to come.

Links:

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Lupe’s Last Mile West, Anchor Point, Alaska (8-27-16)

Day 29, Part 1, of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

No sign along the Sterling Highway (Alaska Route 1) mentioned beach access.  There had to be a way to get there, though, didn’t there?  The first road W that SPHP tried in the small community of Anchor Point led to a housing subdivision on a bluff overlooking Cook Inlet.  No way down.  This couldn’t be right.  Back to the Sterling Highway.

There had been a sign a little S of here for the Anchor River State Recreation Area.  SPHP drove back to try that.  This was it!  The road wound downhill, crossed the Anchor River, and ended a mile or so later at a parking lot next to Cook Inlet.  SPHP parked the G6 (8:10 AM), and Lupe jumped out.

It was a beautiful morning – bright, mostly sunny, with a cool fresh ocean breeze.  Lupe and SPHP headed down to the beach.  A little to the N, a tractor was busy launching a boat into the ocean.  Across Cook Inlet of the North Pacific Ocean, two massive volcanoes, Iliamna and Redoubt, white with ice and snow, stood out as giants among lesser peaks on the far shore.

Lupe arrives at Anchor Point on the shore of Cook Inlet, a huge bay of the North Pacific Ocean. Iliamna Volcano is visible on the far shore. Photo looks NW.
A tractor was busy launching boats, one by one, into Cook Inlet.
Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.). Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.), the highest mountain of the Aleutian Range, is less than 200 feet higher than Iliamna. Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.

According to legend, Anchor Point got its name in 1778 when famous explorer Captain James Cook of the British Navy lost an anchor somewhere near the mouth of the Anchor River.

Lupe wasn’t here to search for Captain Cook’s anchor.  She was here to reach a personal milestone, one that would likely endure the rest of her life.  No road connected to the North American highway system goes any farther W than the road she had just taken to Anchor Point.  Somewhere along the gently curving stretch of beach to the S, a mile away or less, was the westernmost point on earth Lupe would ever reach.

Somewhere less than a mile beyond Lupe, this beach reaches its westernmost point and starts curving slightly back toward the E. At that point, Lupe would be as far W as she will likely ever be in her whole life. Photo looks SW.

Despite having had a huge adventure yesterday crossing Kachemak Bay aboard the water taxi XtraTuff to climb Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.), Lupe was energized!  She raced along the deserted sand and mud flats exposed by low tide, seagulls swirling overhead.  SPHP plodded along after her, enjoying every moment of the exhilarating seaside stroll.

Lupe streaks away over sand and mud exposed by low tide, seagulls swirling overhead. Photo looks S.
Whee! Lupe was energized!

The shoreline headed only slightly W of S from where Lupe and SPHP started.  It would gradually curve back to true S, and then slightly E of S.  SPHP had no way of knowing which particular spot was the farthest point W along Lupe’s route.  It would hardly matter, since the entire beach was only marginally farther E than the exact westernmost point.

Lupe posed nicely in the sun for a couple of shots looking W toward the open ocean.  If Lupe wasn’t at her westernmost point here, she was very close to it.

Lupe on the shore of Cook Inlet very nearly as far W as she will likely ever be. Photo looks W.

Lupe and SPHP continued S, and perhaps a bit farther W along the shore.  Seagulls took flight whenever Lupe or SPHP got too close, only to land again a short distance away to resume strutting about the beach.

Seagulls liked to strut about the beach picking at whatever they found of interest. Whenever Lupe or SPHP got too close, they took off, only to land again a short distance away. Another part of the Kenai Peninsula is seen in the distance, beyond Kachemak Bay. Some of it is farther W than Anchor Point, but access is limited. There are no roads over there. Photo looks SSW.

The exposed beach was very flat.  Most of it was quite damp.  In some places it was simply muddy.  Lupe passed over large patches of seaweed left stranded by the ocean.  Strange odors arose from the seaweed.  Lupe sniffed to her heart’s content, learning about life in and near the ocean.

Lupe sniffs the strange odors given off by seaweed. Large stretches of the beach were completely covered with it.

Far to the SW, barely visible on the horizon, was another volcano.  It was much smaller than Iliamna or Redoubt, and looked blue instead of white.  This was Augustine Volcano (4,025 ft.), which sits on an island presumably of its own making, in Cook Inlet.

Augustine Volcano was barely visible on the far horizon. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

Not a soul was around.  The shoreline was deserted, except for the seagulls.  The fresh ocean breeze blew.  Waves rolled endlessly ashore.  Lupe explored and sniffed.  SPHP continued S.  Finally, a long straight stretch of beach was ahead.  To the E was a bluff.  To the W, several large rocks could be seen at or near the edge of the water.

A busy Carolina Dog explores the shoreline along Cook Inlet. A long stretch of beach was ahead, with a bluff to the E. Photo looks S.
Over near the end of the bluff, a few large rocks could be seen close to the shoreline. Photo looks S.

Beyond the bluff, the beach made a more noticeable turn E.  If Lupe hadn’t already passed by her actual farthest point W, it was almost certainly near one of those big rocks W of the bluff.  That was as far as Lupe needed to go.  SPHP christened the largest, most distant rock as the “Rock of the West”.

Approaching the “Rock of the West” (R of Center).

Although the Rock of the West had appeared to be on shore when SPHP first spotted it, by the time Lupe reached it, the tide had come in further.  The Rock of the West was now a small island.

This point on the beach was the end for Lupe.  She must have been at least a mile from the Anchor Point parking lot by now.  More of the Kenai Peninsula across Kachemak Bay to the S was gradually coming into view as Lupe had approached the Rock of the West.  Either this was it, or Lupe had already completed her last mile W somewhere along the way.

Here, a few feet from the Rock of the West, Lupe was as far W as she would ever be in her whole life.

Lupe as far W as she will ever be, a few feet away from the Rock of the West at Anchor Point, Alaska. Photo looks W.

Only 13 days ago, Lupe had reached her farthest point N along the Dietrich River nearly 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle.  Now she had reached another milestone in life.  Both moments were beautiful and wonderful, but also bittersweet.

It was wonderful that Lupe had journeyed so far, and expanded her world so much.  She had seen so many new places, and had so many memorable experiences.  Yet it was sad to think that this was also an end, a boundary beyond which she would never go.

For a while, Lupe and SPHP stayed together, looking out to sea near the Rock of the West.  The same sea encircles the globe.  Far beyond the horizon was a world of exotic lands, entire continents to explore.  Lupe would never see them.

So, Looper, if you had a ship like Captain James Cook did so long ago, where would you sail?  What distant, exotic lands would you explore?

Squirrel island!

Oh, for Pete’s sake!  Come on, let’s go!

The return trip along the beach was every bit as relaxing and beautiful as Lupe’s journey to the Rock of the West had been.  Sea and sky were blue.  Seagulls and mighty volcanoes were white.  Boats bobbed on the water or zoomed away over the waves, no doubt in a rush to reach Squirrel Island.  Surf exhausted itself uselessly against the edge of North America, but made the most calming, relaxing sound on earth doing so.

Right here, right now, was a glorious place to be!

Iliamna Volcano across Cook Inlet. Photo looks NW.
Redoubt Volcano(L) on the way back. Photo looks NW.
Blue sky, blue sea. White seagulls, white volcano.
Seagulls with a grand view of Iliamna Volcano. Photo looks NW.
Augustine Volcano(L). Wouldn’t it have been fun, if Lupe had only had a ship that would have taken her over to the island it’s on? Photo looks SW.
American Dingoes are known to roam as far W as Anchor Point, Alaska. They seem to like it here! Photo looks NW.
Another boat launched by the tractor gets underway. Redoubt Volcano in the background. Photo looks NNW.
Someone sets off in search of fabled Squirrel Island.

Despite an unrushed, easy pace, Lupe’s last mile West hadn’t taken long.  By 9:35 AM, she was back at the G6.  A major milestone was now behind her, but more adventures were in store, this very day!  This afternoon she would be on the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills, which certainly sounded like fun.

Yet it would be a long time before Lupe and SPHP would forget the Rock of the West and being here together at beautiful Anchor Point, the farthest W Lupe ever went, standing at the edge of the sea, gazing out toward the world of possibilities that lay beyond the restless waves.

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