Day 29, Part 1, of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska
No sign along the Sterling Highway (Alaska Route 1) mentioned beach access. There had to be a way to get there, though, didn’t there? The first road W that SPHP tried in the small community of Anchor Point led to a housing subdivision on a bluff overlooking Cook Inlet. No way down. This couldn’t be right. Back to the Sterling Highway.
There had been a sign a little S of here for the Anchor River State Recreation Area. SPHP drove back to try that. This was it! The road wound downhill, crossed the Anchor River, and ended a mile or so later at a parking lot next to Cook Inlet. SPHP parked the G6 (8:10 AM), and Lupe jumped out.
It was a beautiful morning – bright, mostly sunny, with a cool fresh ocean breeze. Lupe and SPHP headed down to the beach. A little to the N, a tractor was busy launching a boat into the ocean. Across Cook Inlet of the North Pacific Ocean, two massive volcanoes, Iliamna and Redoubt, white with ice and snow, stood out as giants among lesser peaks on the far shore.
According to legend, Anchor Point got its name in 1778 when famous explorer Captain James Cook of the British Navy lost an anchor somewhere near the mouth of the Anchor River.
Lupe wasn’t here to search for Captain Cook’s anchor. She was here to reach a personal milestone, one that would likely endure the rest of her life. No road connected to the North American highway system goes any farther W than the road she had just taken to Anchor Point. Somewhere along the gently curving stretch of beach to the S, a mile away or less, was the westernmost point on earth Lupe would ever reach.
Despite having had a huge adventure yesterday crossing Kachemak Bay aboard the water taxi XtraTuff to climb Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.), Lupe was energized! She raced along the deserted sand and mud flats exposed by low tide, seagulls swirling overhead. SPHP plodded along after her, enjoying every moment of the exhilarating seaside stroll.
The shoreline headed only slightly W of S from where Lupe and SPHP started. It would gradually curve back to true S, and then slightly E of S. SPHP had no way of knowing which particular spot was the farthest point W along Lupe’s route. It would hardly matter, since the entire beach was only marginally farther E than the exact westernmost point.
Lupe posed nicely in the sun for a couple of shots looking W toward the open ocean. If Lupe wasn’t at her westernmost point here, she was very close to it.
Lupe and SPHP continued S, and perhaps a bit farther W along the shore. Seagulls took flight whenever Lupe or SPHP got too close, only to land again a short distance away to resume strutting about the beach.
The exposed beach was very flat. Most of it was quite damp. In some places it was simply muddy. Lupe passed over large patches of seaweed left stranded by the ocean. Strange odors arose from the seaweed. Lupe sniffed to her heart’s content, learning about life in and near the ocean.
Far to the SW, barely visible on the horizon, was another volcano. It was much smaller than Iliamna or Redoubt, and looked blue instead of white. This was Augustine Volcano (4,025 ft.), which sits on an island presumably of its own making, in Cook Inlet.
Not a soul was around. The shoreline was deserted, except for the seagulls. The fresh ocean breeze blew. Waves rolled endlessly ashore. Lupe explored and sniffed. SPHP continued S. Finally, a long straight stretch of beach was ahead. To the E was a bluff. To the W, several large rocks could be seen at or near the edge of the water.
Beyond the bluff, the beach made a more noticeable turn E. If Lupe hadn’t already passed by her actual farthest point W, it was almost certainly near one of those big rocks W of the bluff. That was as far as Lupe needed to go. SPHP christened the largest, most distant rock as the “Rock of the West”.
Although the Rock of the West had appeared to be on shore when SPHP first spotted it, by the time Lupe reached it, the tide had come in further. The Rock of the West was now a small island.
This point on the beach was the end for Lupe. She must have been at least a mile from the Anchor Point parking lot by now. More of the Kenai Peninsula across Kachemak Bay to the S was gradually coming into view as Lupe had approached the Rock of the West. Either this was it, or Lupe had already completed her last mile W somewhere along the way.
Here, a few feet from the Rock of the West, Lupe was as far W as she would ever be in her whole life.
Only 13 days ago, Lupe had reached her farthest point N along the Dietrich River nearly 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle. Now she had reached another milestone in life. Both moments were beautiful and wonderful, but also bittersweet.
It was wonderful that Lupe had journeyed so far, and expanded her world so much. She had seen so many new places, and had so many memorable experiences. Yet it was sad to think that this was also an end, a boundary beyond which she would never go.
For a while, Lupe and SPHP stayed together, looking out to sea near the Rock of the West. The same sea encircles the globe. Far beyond the horizon was a world of exotic lands, entire continents to explore. Lupe would never see them.
So, Looper, if you had a ship like Captain James Cook did so long ago, where would you sail? What distant, exotic lands would you explore?
Squirrel island!
Oh, for Pete’s sake! Come on, let’s go!
The return trip along the beach was every bit as relaxing and beautiful as Lupe’s journey to the Rock of the West had been. Sea and sky were blue. Seagulls and mighty volcanoes were white. Boats bobbed on the water or zoomed away over the waves, no doubt in a rush to reach Squirrel Island. Surf exhausted itself uselessly against the edge of North America, but made the most calming, relaxing sound on earth doing so.
Right here, right now, was a glorious place to be!
Despite an unrushed, easy pace, Lupe’s last mile West hadn’t taken long. By 9:35 AM, she was back at the G6. A major milestone was now behind her, but more adventures were in store, this very day! This afternoon she would be on the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills, which certainly sounded like fun.
Yet it would be a long time before Lupe and SPHP would forget the Rock of the West and being here together at beautiful Anchor Point, the farthest W Lupe ever went, standing at the edge of the sea, gazing out toward the world of possibilities that lay beyond the restless waves.
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