Freeze Out Point & Riley Point, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (6-24-20)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

Dave Covill‘s visit to the Black Hills at the end of May brought an abrupt end to over half a year of nearly unbroken adventure-free monotony.   Lupe had already despaired of ever living a life of adventure again, but suddenly hopes, even great expectations, were revived.  The Carolina Dog was enthused!  She had gotten to go to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.), and Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) while Dave had been around.

SPHP always said summer begins June 1st, and June was now magically here!  Without a doubt, adventures galore were heading the American Dingo’s way!

And then – nothing.  The old routine returned.  Lupe spent day after day laying on the carpet staring sadly out the window.  Outside, the grass was green, had been for two months.  Puffy white clouds plied brilliant blue skies, birds sang and flew by on warm, soft breezes.  The mountains were waiting, but no Dingo appeared.

Almost half shot already, 2020 – the Year of Perfect Vision, had gotten off to a very strange start.  Consequently, SPHP was way behind, still trying to “catch up”.  Despite SPHP’s assurances that good things were coming, those promises were empty.  Days turned to weeks.

Oh, there were morning walks in the park, and evening walks through the neighborhood.  People, dogs, and the mail carrier strolled by every day.  Now and then squirrels risked making an appearance.  Mondays were the height of excitement – official Barking Day!  The garbage and recycling trucks came, both making two passes in order to serve each side of the street.  SPHP couldn’t get a thing done then.  Not while the frantic Carolina Dog dashed inside and out, upstairs and down, all the while sounding a shrill ear-splitting alarm.

Barking Day was fun, but small potatoes.  A few hours of rambunctious action followed by yet another week of boredom.  The solstice came and went.  The glorious summer of 2020 was sailing by, never to return, and Lupe was missing out.

6-23-20, 1:19 PM, 79ºF – Loop knew the signs!  Oh, yeah!  She’d happily followed SPHP back and forth between the house and the G6 umpteen times this morning, before finally giving up and just laying in the shade of the big tree in the front yard to watch.  SPHP was slow even at this task, but now the wait was over.  The G6 was pulling out of the driveway, the American Dingo riding high on a pile of gear, supplies, pillows and blankets.  Seemed like it had been forever and a day, but at long last a shiny new Dingo Vacation was underway!

On the road to adventure, 6-23-20!

So where we headed, SPHP?

Oh, not too far Looper!  The Bighorn Range of Wyoming.

I love the Bighorns!

Me, too, Loop.  We’ll be there before dark.  Tomorrow you’ll be climbing mountains again.  Promise!  Nothing too hard, though.  Figure we better ease back into the peakbagging business after lounging about for so long.

Anything will be an improvement to the way things have been going, SPHP.  Once acclimated, we can work our way up to bigger and better things.

Right-O, dear Dingo!  In the meantime, it’s all good.

Even with an early afternoon start, there was time enough to take the scenic route.  At Gillette, SPHP left I-90 to head NW on Hwy 14/16.  This provided the Carolina Dog a chance to drop by Spotted Horse for the first time in years.

At the Spotted Horse bar, which constitutes about all there is at Spotted Horse.
Always fun to get out and stretch at Spotted Horse!

SPHP bought an ice cream treat, and would have shared it with Lupe, but she was only mildly interested.  Most of it disappeared while SPHP read a plaque about Hunt’s 1811 Astorian Overland Expedition.

Getting to the Bighorns and exploring the American West used to be a good deal harder than it is these days.

By evening, Lupe really was in the Bighorns!  It was still light out when SPHP parked the G6 near the turnaround loop at the end of USFS Road No. 168 (8:03 PM, 58ºF).  The Carolina Dog got to explore some of the nearby dolomite formations, before calling it a day.

Thought this day would never come! Tomorrow should be great!

6-24-20, 6:45 AM, 55ºF, near the end of USFS Road No. 168 – The sun was up!  Sort of a late start, since no one had slept all that well last night.  Lupe had wanted out twice.  The first time had been very dark, with the Milky Way blazing overhead.  Naturally, the wily Dingo quickly sniffed out some chicken bones SPHP had forgotten on a log.  A menacing growl warned she had not the slightest intention of giving up this glittering prize.  Chomp, chomp, chomp!  The bones vanished in a flash.

Apparently no harm done.  Looper was in good spirits on this beautiful, bright Bighorns morning.  The long awaited time for action had arrived.  First up, Freeze Out Point (8,305 ft.)!  The Carolina Dog sniffed her way over to the loop at the end of USFS Road No. 168, then started SE up a long open slope following somewhat rougher USFS Road No. 199.

Dolomite formations Lupe had explored yesterday evening. This side road soon peters out back among the rocks. Photo looks N.
About to set off for Freeze Out Point. USFS Road No. 199 is seen going up the slope on the R. Photo looks E.
Looking NNW back down at the loop at the end of USFS Road No. 168 from No. 199.

This ought to be a snap, Loop!  Not even 1.5 miles to Freeze Out Point.  Moderate to gentle slope the whole way.  An easy peakbagging success!  We’ll gawk at the views, take a few photos, and be on our way back.

Sounds great, SPHP!

And with that, Lupe dashed away.  3 deer had caught her attention, and she needed to investigate.  The deer melted into the forest long before the American Dingo got anywhere close to them, but Loopster just kept running through the fields of wildflowers for the pure joy of running.  Fun to watch her.  Yes, this Dingo Vacation was off to a great start!

By the time Lupe returned, SPHP had reached the upper end of the first slope where No. 199 leveled out for a stretch alongside an old wooden fence.  Freeze Out Point was now in sight.  Surprisingly, it didn’t appear to be the complete cakewalk SPHP had anticipated.  Looked like there might be some rock formations hidden back in the forest.  Hopefully they wouldn’t be too vertical.

Freeze Out Point from a level stretch along USFS Road No. 199. Photo looks SE.

Didn’t take long to get up to the summit region, the E side of which was open ground.  A stone fire ring sat out in the middle of this area, with a stack of small diameter firewood nearby.  It had become increasingly clear on the way up that there definitely were higher rock formations concealed in the nearby forest.  Lupe would have to check them out, but first it was time to enjoy the sweeping views from here.

Looking NW back down the road Lupe had just come up.
At Freeze Out Point. Photo looks N.
Gazing down on the territory to the ENE and high plains beyond the Bighorns.
The views are best over this way! Black Mountain (R) in the distance. Photo looks SE.

After an initial look around, Lupe and SPHP headed SW up into the trees.  The Carolina Dog easily gained 20 to 25 feet of elevation before reaching the base of the closest rock formation.  Ay-yi-yi!  No way was she getting up that thing.  A narrow wall of rock towered another 20 or 30 feet higher, its sides not only practically straight up and down, but with an overhang at the end.

This last step higher is a doozy, SPHP! Photo looks S.

Oh, for pity sake!  Freeze Out Point was supposed to be a gimme, Looper.  Don’t tell me we’re gonna get skunked!

Don’t give up so easy, SPHP!  Maybe there’s another way, or an even higher point we can actually get to.  Let’s look around.

Peering along the NW side of the wall of rock revealed a steep, narrow chute that looked passable, but not all that promising.  Venturing around to the SE, far more encouraging terrain was seen.

This ought to work, SPHP! Photo looks S.

Lupe managed to scramble up to a high point where the rock wall jutted out to the E.  A couple of other spots 100 to 200 feet off to the N looked equally high, maybe even a foot or two higher.  The rock wall was lumpy, narrow and full of fissures.  The other high points weren’t accessible.  No matter!  This was good enough for Dingo work.  Loopster was claiming a peakbagging success!

Black Mountain (Center) from Freeze Out Point. Photo looks SSE.
On Freeze Out Point. Photo looks SE.
Looking back N along the rock wall at a couple of competing high points that might even have been a bit higher.

Altogether, Lupe spend nearly an hour at Freeze Out Point, although not all of it way up on the rock wall.  Before leaving, she did go back to check out that NW chute to see if it might provide a reasonable route up to the other high points.  SPHP scrambled up first, before the American Dingo made her attempt.

Two tremendous leaps were nearly successful, but each time Lupe fell back, scampering down to the safety of more level terrain well below the chute.  On her third try she made it.  Sadly, further exploration proved her efforts had been in vain.  A narrow ledge above the chute did lead higher, but didn’t look worth chancing.  Even if Loop managed to safely negotiate the ledge, it still didn’t look possible to get up to the top rocks.

Oh, well!  Never mind, Loop!  Not going to risk breaking our necks to gain an extra foot.  Let the purists and rock climbers do this.  We’re outta here!

I guess we’re moving on, but Freeze Out Point was actually kind of fun! Photo looks ESE.
At the base of the NW chute that didn’t pan out. Photo looks SSW.

The march back down USFS Road No. 199 was super easy.  Despite being more complicated than originally anticipated, Freeze Out Point hadn’t taken all that long.  The day was off to a good start!

Riley Point (8,536 ft.) was Lupe’s next peakbagging objective.  Once back at the G6 (9:12 AM, 66ºF), the American Dingo hopped in, and SPHP drove roughly 4 miles back out along USFS Road No. 168, parking close to the low point of a big open saddle near junctions with USFS Roads No. 149 & 150.

Lupe had been here before.  Two years ago, she had taken USFS Road No. 149 down the long valley to the NW before climbing up to the high point on the NW half of massive Dry Fork Ridge (8,480 ft.), which was Sheridan County, Wyoming’s most prominent peak.  That had been an all day adventure, but not a difficult one.

Riley Point on the much closer SE half of Dry Fork Ridge was actually a bit higher, but evidently wasn’t as prominent.  The topo map showed USFS Road No. 150 going right to it.  Once again, SPHP figured Lupe was just in for an easy road hike.  Nevertheless, visiting Riley Point was going to take considerably longer than Freeze Out Point had, since it was close to 5 miles away.

The day was warming up.  The first thing Lupe did once she was out of the G6 was to run down an embankment to get a drink out of Camp Creek.  She then laid in the shade of the G6 enjoying some Taste of the Wild, while SPHP devoured a piece of fried chicken.

Cooling off in Camp Creek. Photo looks SE.

6-24-20, 10:06 AM, 68ºF, leaving for Riley PointAlrighty, Loopster!  Let’s do this.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!  Lupe left the shade of the G6, and headed for USFS Road No. 150.  Nearly all of the 1,000+ feet of net elevation gain required to get up to Riley Point would come in the first 2 miles, with the steepest part right at the start.  Passing a Riley Point sign, the Carolina Dog started the long trudge higher.

Setting off for Riley Point. USFS Road No. 168 curves off to the R, while No. 150 heads up onto the SE end of Dry Fork Ridge. Photo looks N.
Signage near the start. Photo looks N.

After a steady climb, the road actually dipped briefly before continuing higher.  The day was mostly sunny.  Although it really wasn’t all that hot out, it felt plenty warm if you were wearing a fur coat, which Lupe was.  Not used to the thin air, SPHP paused frequently to rest.  Loop eagerly lapped up additional water offered during these breaks.

Glancing back down at the G6 near USFS Road No. 168 after some initial progress up No. 150. The Camp Creek valley is on the L. Photo looks S.
Halfway up the SE end of Dry Fork Ridge near a dip in the road. Photo looks N.

Fortunately, a few well-positioned clouds often provided welcome shade during the exposed trek up to the start of the trees.  Once Lupe reached the forest, she enjoyed more reliable relief from the blazing sun.

Taking a break. Twin Buttes (8,235 ft.) are in the foreground on the R. Photo looks S.
On USFS Road No.150, quite happy to be in the shady forest.

No. 150 gained elevation more sporadically up here.  At times, the road leveled out completely.  Small glades and occasional larger meadows were scattered among the trees.  Eventually, a short steepish rise ended at a “T” intersection.

At the “T” Intersection with USFS Road No. 201.01. Lupe had come up No. 150 from the L. The most direct route to Riley Point is the road beyond her. Photo looks WNW.

Hmm.  The map showed this as a 4-way junction.  A road should have continued straight ahead, but there didn’t seem to be one.  This was somewhat important, because Lupe had another mission up here other than getting to Riley Point.  Only 0.2 mile further N was HP8548, the high point at the SE end of Dry Fork Ridge.  Since HP8548 was higher than Riley Point (8,536 ft.), seemed like Loop ought to visit it, too, while she was so close.  The missing road was supposed to go almost right to it.

Studying the 60 foot wide swath of open ground immediately beyond the intersection, SPHP noticed what appeared to be a very faint remnant of a road slightly off to the W (L).  Following it to a gap at the edge of the forest, Lupe discovered an abandoned road that did continue N.

Another 150 feet brought the American Dingo to a gate.  SPHP opened it, letting her through.  Just past the gate, a number of large trees had fallen across the road.  Beyond them, the road continued higher.

At the gate. Photo looks N.

Lupe kept going.  200 yards up a gentle slope, the forest ended.  Entering a meadow, the faint road curved W.  As the topo map indicated, slightly higher ground was nearby to the N.  Leaving the road, Lupe explored a region of scraggly pines.  She quickly came to a couple of large chunks of dolomite at the top of small rise.

The Carolina Dog hopped up on the highest rock.  Inches away was a 30 or 40 foot precipice.  No doubt about it, Lupe had made it to HP8548.

HP8548 at the SE end of Dry Fork Ridge. Photo looks E.
An unseen cliff is just beyond Lupe, so there wasn’t any question whether she’d really reached HP8548. This was it, alright! Photo looks N.

The intention was to take a bit of a break here, but within minutes Lupe was being plagued by flies.  So she left HP8548, now losing elevation as she headed W to rejoin the faint road.  Lupe came across the road again just as it entered an old burn.  This was quite a scenic spot.  Ahead, large boulders were scattered across the broad ridge.  Beyond them, vertical rock formations a good 20 or 30 feet high jutted up from the next rise.

Wandering W among the interesting rocks, Lupe soon reached USFS Road No. 150 again.  Almost immediately, she came to a side road not shown on the map that went NE up toward the vertical rock formations.  However, Loop didn’t explore it.  Instead, the American Dingo continued NW on No. 150.

In the burnt area W of HP8548. At the time, SPHP had been under the impression that HP8548 was the true summit of all of Dry Fork Ridge. Months later, while reviewing the topo map, SPHP realized that the true summit is actually up on one of rock formations seen here in the distance. The map shows a very small region over there in an 8560 foot contour. Didn’t really matter that Lupe never got over there. Not likely she could have made it to the top anyway. Photo looks NW.

Riley Point was still out of sight, a good 2.5 miles farther NW, but Lupe could follow USFS Road No. 150 all the way to it.  The road went over a series of high spots separated by drops of up to 100 feet or even more.  While most of Dry Fork Ridge was forested up here, the road usually passed through sunny meadows.

USFS Roads No. 150 and No. 201.01 divide up ahead. No. 201.01 heads off to the R, while No. 150 bears L on its way up to HP8461.
Approaching HP8461 (L). Photo looks NW.

Since the road was never steep, progress was rapid.  Breaks continued to be taken for water, to sit in the shade for a few minutes, or just to enjoy wildflowers and other sights.  Riley Point itself eventually came into view, still a bit of a march away.

Riley Point (L end of the forested ridge on the R) comes into sight. Photo looks NW.
Wildflowers along the way.
Getting there! Riley Point is the little clump of trees just R of Center. Photo looks NW.

A gain of nearly 200 feet was required from the last low point the road hit to get up to Riley Point.  As Lupe closed in on her objective, the first high spot she reached had some wild-looking dead trees, but this still wasn’t quite the top.

Looking back as Lupe closes in on Riley Point. Black Mountain (9,489 ft.) (L) in the distance. Photo looks SSE.
View to the ESE.
Almost there! The wild dead trees are on the L. The actual high point is over by the trees on the R. Photo looks WNW.
By the wild-looking dead trees. Not the top, but close to it. Photo looks S.

The top of Riley Point (8,536 ft.) was just a little farther N.  No tricky surprises here like at Freeze Out Point.  Behind a small stand of trees and bushes along the SW edge of Dry Fork Ridge, Lupe found a minor dolomite outcropping partially covered with orange lichens.  Clear ground to the NE provided easy access.

Lupe reaches Riley Point. Photo looks S.
Made it! Nothing to it really! Lupe on Riley Point. Photo looks SW.

The big view was to the SW overlooking the huge Dry Fork Creek canyon, which Lupe had once ventured down 2 years ago now.

The big view to the SW.

With her last peakbagging mission of the day a success, Loop retreated 15 feet to the nearby stunted trees intent upon settling down in the shade of a low bush.  Time for that longer break!

Happy Lupe hiding out from the hot sun at Riley Point.

Lupe and SPHP relaxed.  There was water and plenty to eat.  The only thing the Carolina Dog didn’t care for about Riley Point were the insects.  She stayed busy snapping at flies and a bee that kept annoying her.

Everything seemed fine for a while, but suddenly Lupe went crazy!  She appeared to be frantically licking the short needles of the bush she was hiding in.  Upon closer inspection, SPHP saw that some kind of a bug had firmly attached itself to the end of her nose, and was busily stinging or biting her.  Whether it was a black wasp, or merely a huge ant wasn’t clear.  SPHP grabbed at it 3 times before succeeding in plucking it off.

Lupe was immediately and tremendously relieved.  Full of gratitude, she took to licking SPHP to show her sincere deep appreciation.

A sunny, lazy hour drifted by.  At one point, SPHP thought it might be fun to head farther NW to where Lupe could look over West Pass and see the NW half of Dry Fork Ridge where she’d been 2 years ago.  However, a quick reconnaissance revealed that Loop would have to go another mile and lose more than 200 feet of elevation in order to get to where she could see past the forest well enough for a good view.

On open terrain just N of Riley Point. Photo looks NNW.
The NW half of Dry Fork Ridge is visible in the distance on the R. Photo looks NW.

The distance and elevation would all have to be retraced and regained on the way back.  Eh, not worth it.  Riley Point was good enough.  Back to taking it easy!  The inevitable moment arrived all too quickly.

Guess it’s about time to head back, Loop.  Been a nice day, a fine start to this Dingo Vacation, wouldn’t you say?

If you don’t mind me saying so, SPHP, getting my nose stung wasn’t all that wonderful.  Could have done without that!  Haven’t seen a single squirrel, either.  But otherwise, yes.  Fun to be back in the Bighorns again.

The return trip along USFS Road No. 150 seemed to go by quickly.  Lupe trudged along at SPHP’s heels instead of exploring like she usually did.  Maybe she was tired, or still felt hot?  Off to the W there were often views of the big ridges sporting long snowbanks along the spine of the Bighorn Range.

Before starting the 2 mile descent down off the SE end of Dry Fork Ridge, Lupe returned once again to High Point 8548.  After a few moments of quiet contemplation in this remote spot, the Carolina Dog headed for the faint road leading to the hidden gate.

Guess this is about it for today’s adventures to Freeze Out Point, and Riley Point on Dry Fork Ridge! Stay tuned, though. We’re just getting going! More Bighorn Mountain adventures are on the way! Lupe back at HP8538.

Back at the G6 (5:30 PM, 70ºF), Lupe ran down to Camp Creek again for another cold drink.  By now the sky was mostly cloudy, especially dark to the W.  Driving out along USFS Road No. 168, intending to head for the Burgess picnic ground along the N Tongue River, SPHP stopped.

Off to the N, beyond a field of lavender lupines and the mostly unseen Dry Fork Creek valley, there stood Dry Fork Ridge.  Only the S end of the NW half was visible, but Lupe could see the entire length of the SE half where she’d spent most of the day.  Two adventures, two years apart on Dry Fork Ridge, but this was it.  Although the American Dingo would see the big ridge again from miles away, she wasn’t likely to ever return.  Other adventures were calling.

Goodbye to Dry Fork Ridge. Photo looks NNW.

At the Burgess picnic ground, SPHP heated up beef stew and creamed corn.  Dingoes love beef stew, but are decidedly indifferent to creamed corn.  Loop got another drink from the N Tongue River.  The beef stew vanished, and the evening swept by.  After sunset, SPHP drove to USFS Road No. 165, 4+ miles NE of the Garden of the Gods (9,163).

Lupe never heard the thunder, or the few raindrops that fell.  After a long day in the fresh Bighorn mountain air, she was already in Dingo dreamland.  (6-24-20, 9:13 PM)

Riley Point, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 6-24-20

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Dry Fork Ridge, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (6-12-18)

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Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 255: Missouri Buttes & A Visit With Dave Covill, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation (5-27-20)

5-25-20 –  Lucky Dingo!  You’ve been granted a reprieve.

I have?  That’s good!  A reprieve from what, SPHP?

All this endless boredom laying around.  Apparently you’ve served your 6 month sentence.  Adventure is heading your way!  Remember Dave Covill and your Mighty Dingo Missile Launch?

How could I ever forget that?  I was sore for a week!

You’re lucky you weren’t crippled for life!  Anyway, Dave is coming up from Colorado in a couple of days to climb Devils Tower (5,112 ft.).  Says here he might have time to meet with us.

Devils Tower!  That’s straight up and down!  No one can climb that!

Actually, it is possible with the right equipment and skills, Loop.

Or a helicopter!

Hah!  Yeah, that’s the only way we’d ever get up there!  Don’t worry, we aren’t going to try to keep up with Dave.  Last year his first little starter peak was Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), the high point of South America!

5-27-20, 12:45 PM, Wyoming Hwy 24 – We’re almost there, SPHP!  There’s Devils Tower and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.), too.  Can we stop and take a look from here?

Sure thing, Loopster!

Great to be back in Wyoming! There’s Devils Tower (R), and Missouri Buttes (L). Photo looks NNW.

At 1:02 PM, Lupe arrived at the Devils Tower Trading Post.  Dave was supposed to meet her here once he finished his final training session with his guide.

Dave won’t be free for another hour yet, so let’s have a look around! Photo looks WNW.
Mr. Covill’s been training on Devils Tower yesterday afternoon, and again today. Maybe he’s somewhere on the lower part right now?
I don’t see him, though. Maybe he’s already down, or on another side of the mountain?
The entrance to America’s first national monument is right next to the trading post and the Devils Tower KOA campground.
This sign at the KOA depicts an Indian legend about how Devils Tower came to be.

Dave finally showed up a little before 2:30 PM.  He was pleased with how quickly he had bonded with his guide, and the quality of training.  Despite Dave’s decades of peakbagging experience, Devils Tower was a tough and unique challenge!  One of his knees was scraped up and swollen, but he still intended to climb the mountain tomorrow.

Dave Covill, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation with Loop at the trading post.

Dave had a few hours to burn with Lupe, so what to do?  Two options!  First was a visit to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), the high point of the Bear Lodge mountains.  Warren Peaks was easy.  A USFS road went all the way to the fire lookout tower on top, so it was just a drive up.  The other option was to climb Missouri Buttes, which would take a few hours.

After a very early start on the long drive up from Colorado yesterday morning followed by two rigorous training sessions on Devils Tower, and faced with the prospect of climbing it tomorrow, Warren Peaks sounded like the sensible choice to Dave.  He jumped in the G6 with Lupe and SPHP.

On the way to Warren Peaks, SPHP naturally asked about Dave’s trip to Aconcagua, and also his return to Alaska in August, 2019 for a second attempt on Mount Isto (8,976 ft.), the high point of the Brooks Range.  Both were gripping tales.

(Dave’s Aconcagua trip report, Greg Slayden’s Mount Isto trip report.  Their mutual friend Edward Earl had drowned in the Jago River during a first trip to Mount Isto in June, 2015.)

Shortly before reaching Warren Peaks, SPHP parked on a hill expecting a view of Devils Tower, but only the Missouri Buttes were in sight.

Warren Peaks area. Missouri Buttes (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

It was surprisingly cool up at Warren Peaks.  A massive cloud hung over the region hiding the view of the Black Hills way over in South Dakota.  Dave climbed the fire lookout tower as far as it was possible to go, but access to the platform around the ranger’s quarters was locked.  Not to be outdone, even Lupe climbed the tower, which she doesn’t normally like to do.

Dave and Lupe near the Warren Peaks lookout tower.
The Black Hills of South Dakota were hidden by a cloud. Photo looks SE.

During the return to Devils Tower, SPHP took the paved roads, a longer route, so Dave could get a look at the town of Sundance.

Shhh!  Quit talking, SPHP.

Hmm?  What, Loop?

Be quiet!  You’ve put Dave to sleep.

Oh!  Umm, yeah.  I often have that affect on people, don’t I, Looper?  Guess I’ve got quite a soothing personality.

I suppose that’s one way of putting it.

Back at Devils Tower, Dave introduced Lupe and SPHP to a couple of climbing guides he’d met who happened to come along, then he had other business to attend to.  The first of 3 more friends that were going to climb Devils Tower with him was due in this evening.  So that was it for now, although Dave said he might be free again in a couple of days.

5-27-20, 4:50 PM, Devils Tower Trading Post

Fun seeing Dave again, wasn’t it, SPHP?

Sure was, Loopster.  Mighty nice of him to want to include us in his plans.

So what now?  Are we just going home?

Oh, I don’t know.  Not even 5:00 PM yet.  We still have permission from the Nuckolls to climb Missouri Buttes.  I think there’s still time.  Want to do that?

Absolutely!  Let’s go for it!

From Devils Tower, the entrance to the Nuckolls Ranch was a few miles N on Hwy 24, then another mile N and 4 miles W on Barlow Canyon Road.

At the turn off Barlow Canyon Road into the Nuckolls Ranch. Photo looks SW.
Of the 4 main Missouri Buttes, the 2 highest are on the privately owned Nuckolls Ranch.

As instructed while getting permission from Will Nuckolls to enter the ranch in order to visit the Missouri Buttes, SPHP drove S past 2 homes and a number of outbuildings, ultimately parking the G6 beyond them nearly 1.5 miles S of Barlow Canyon Road.

A pickup truck full of Nuckolls driven by family matriarch, Thea Nuckolls, appeared within minutes.  Lupe was several hours later than SPHP had told them to expect her, but that wasn’t a problem.  A friendly conversation, and they were on their way.

Lupe was too!  She struck out for the Missouri Buttes following a dirt ranch road S.

Come on! The NE Missouri Butte is only 1.5 miles away!

The road curved slightly to the R as it went up a mostly forested valley.  Lupe quickly came to an old water tank.  The main road curved sharply R (NW) here, but the Carolina Dog continued SSW past the water tank a short distance into a more open part of the valley.  Within a few hundred feet, the valley branched.  Loop took the R (SW) branch instead of going straight ahead.

We’re not far beyond the water tank now. The valley divides here. We’ll take the branch to the R. Photo looks SSW.

After just a few minutes, Lupe turned S entering the forest and starting to climb.  The remnant of a road curved L around to a clearing on the E side of hill.  This looked like a good spot to leave the valley.  A quick romp up the hill got Looper up to a narrow, gently rounded ridge.

Starting up the hill. Photo looks SW.
Up on the ridgeline. Photo looks SSW.
View from the ridge. Photo looks E.

Following the ridgeline SSW, the Carolina Dog continued to gain a little elevation.  However, that didn’t last long.  The ridge soon leveled out as it widened out.  Lupe passed through an open forest.  A few minutes got her beyond the pines.  She was now on a broad plateau with a fenced field just ahead.  Well beyond the field stood the NW Missouri Butte (5,374 ft.), the highest one of all.

Thar she blows! That’s the NW Missouri Butte, our primary objective! Photo looks SW.

Without entering the big field, Lupe followed the fence line L (SE).  Along the way she went through another section of open woods.  Almost at the end, she crossed a little ravine before ducking under a fence.  Loopster wasn’t far at all from the NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) now.

Approaching the NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks S.

Since it was getting late in the day, and climbing the higher NW butte was top priority, Lupe turned WSW heading for it instead.

Heading for the NW butte (R). Photo looks WSW.
We’re almost there! Photo looks WSW.

Lupe soon reached a stock pond at the base of the NW Missouri Butte.  Looking at the mountain from here, a large patch of orange lichens was visible near the top of the N face.

By the stock pond just N of the NW Missouri Butte. Photo looks W.
NW Missouri Butte from the pond. Photo looks S.

The American Dingo had been here once before.  In November 2016, back when J.W. Nuckolls was still alive, he had told SPHP the best way up the mountain.

The gist of it is this:  Climb the talus slope to the base of the rock wall on the N face just below the orange lichens.  From there go L (E) following a steep ramp of vegetation higher.  At the top of the ramp, a short trail wraps around to the E side where it goes 40 or 50 feet to a spot where it’s easy to clamber up onto the lower E end of the summit.  A short walk through junipers and cacti goes past a small tower to the true summit near the W end.

N face of the NW Butte. Best route – get as close to the orange lichens (Center) as possible, then follow the vegetation steeply up to the L. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
The NE Missouri Butte (R) from above the pond. Photo looks E.

Part of the talus could be avoided by staying to the NW close to a fence line, so that’s what Lupe did.  As it turned out, she could have avoided even more talus if she’d actually crossed the fence.  Not really a big deal, though, either way.  Soon the Carolina Dog was on the rocks.

Here we go! We’ll head toward the L from here, climbing all the way. Photo looks SSE.

Even though SPHP knew the best route, Lupe didn’t go quite far enough L (E) to come up below the orange lichens.  She wound up in a wide NW chute that was so steep SPHP almost felt compelled to retreat to correct the error.

In a steep, rocky chute on the NW flank. That’s the summit just above! Photo looks S.

Certainly not the best route, but the super steep part at the uppermost end of the chute went only 10 or 15 feet higher.  Without assistance, the Carolina Dog quickly scrambled to the top.  She’d come up right at the true summit rock!

Whew! That last bit was a little scary! Lupe at the true summit of the highest (NW) Missouri Butte. Photo looks NE.

A Missouri Butte survey benchmark No. 2 was visible along the W edge 10 or 15 feet from the true summit.

The survey benchmark is the bright spot near the big rock at far L. Photo looks NW.
Survey benchmark No. 2. No attempt was made to find any others.
Loopster at the true summit of Missouri Buttes. Photo looks NW.

5-27-20, 6:54 PM, 57ºF – Such a gorgeous evening!  The views from the NW Missouri Butte were tremendous.  Off to the W, Lupe could see a huge expanse of flatlands dotted with ponds gleaming in the sunlight.  To the N were pine-covered ridges, but nothing nearly as high as where the Carolina Dog was now.

Just as in 2016, the summit region harbored lots of cacti.  Lupe was aware of it, and didn’t want to move around much.  Between all the rocks and cacti, she had a hard time finding a comfortable spot, but did finally settle down for a while.  A light breeze blew out of the W.  Loop and SPHP shared several small chocolate coconut granola bars.

Taking it easy on Missouri Buttes. Photo looks NNW.

A pleasant half hour drifted by.  Unfortunately, the sun wouldn’t be up an awful lot longer.  Since Loopster still hoped to climb the NE Missouri Butte, it was time to get going.  Lupe returned briefly to the summit rock.

A shame Dave was too tired to join us here. I think he might have liked Missouri Buttes! Final moments on the summit rock. Photo looks ENE.

The NW butte’s summit region was a fairly large area.  Juniper bushes hid the views to the E and S from the true summit.  Before departing, it would be fun to see the two lowest Missouri Buttes and Missouri Butte Lake, which were all toward the S.  Due to all the cacti, SPHP carried Lupe more than 100 feet to the lower SW edge.

Missouri Butte Lake. Photo looks SW.
The 2 lowest Missouri Buttes. SE Butte (L) and SW Butte (R). Both are over 5,000 ft. Photo looks S.
Loop near the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks NNE back toward the top.

After a good look around from the SW end, SPHP subsequently had to cart the American Dingo back up to the summit.

Enjoying a few more moments at the top while SPHP takes a breather. Photo looks ENE.

No more dilly-dallying!  SPHP lugged the Carolina Dog to the E end of the summit.  This was even farther, a good 200 or 300 feet.  The view to the SE was certainly worth it!  Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) was in sight.  Lupe got to see the top of Devils Tower before Dave Covill did, albeit from more than 3.5 miles away.

The NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) was also in sight much closer at paw.  Might still be time enough to climb it, if Loop hurried!

NE Missouri Butte (L) and Devil’s Tower (R). Photo looks ESE.
Devils Tower. The high point on the horizon is Warren Peaks. Photo looks SE.
Lupe could see the top of Devils Tower without having to scale that scary overgrown tree stump!
Lovely, but we better get with it and hurry over to the NE Missouri Butte! Photo looks E.

During the descent, Lupe took the slightly longer, but much safer route originally recommended by Mr. Nuckolls.

Loopster where the faint trail reaches the E end of the summit region. The trail extends toward the camera. Photo looks S.
At the NE pass. Photo looks NW.
The N face from the pass. Photo looks WSW.
Coming down the steep ramp. Photo looks ENE.
Descending the talus slope. Photo looks NE.

It took a while to get down.  By the time Lupe was approaching the W end of the NE Missouri Butte, the sun was on the horizon.

Approaching the NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks E.
Looking back. The NW Missouri Butte at sunset. Photo looks W.
Sunset in Wyoming.

The climb up the W end of the NE Butte was fairly steep, but nothing like the NW Butte had been.  Just a matter of how quickly SPHP could do it.  Once the terrain began to level out, Lupe roamed E in open forest.  The true summit was one of a couple of good-sized rocks near the far E end.  Light was fading fast by the time the Carolina Dog got there.

SPHP was glad to see that the old thin cross that had been here during Lupe’s first ascent more than 3.5 years ago was still standing.  Of course, the big attraction was the view of Devils Tower, which was 0.5 mile closer here than back at the NW Butte.

At the first of the two highest rocks. Photo looks SSE.
We’re 0.5 mile closer to Devils Tower (L) here. Photo looks SSE.
Made it just in time! The camera is still doing a good job of brightening the scene up in low light conditions. Photo looks SE.
Sweet view of Devils Tower! Hope you’ve enjoyed this tour of the Missouri Buttes!

Sadly, 5 minutes at the top was it.  Getting pretty dark now.  Lupe left the summit of the NE Butte.  The flashlight had to come out before she was even completely down off the mountain.  As stars began twinkling in the evening sky, Loop and SPHP headed back to the G6.  Between seeing Dave Covill and visiting the Missouri Buttes, it had been a memorable day!  (10:06 PM, 44ºF)

5-31-20, 8:52 AM, 68ºF, Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, SD – Turned out the fun Dave Covill had initiated wasn’t over!  After a successful ascent of Devils Tower with 3 of his buddies, Dave came down to the Black Hills in South Dakota.  As Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation, he had business to attend to inspecting the installation of a beautiful bench along Trail No. 4 in the the Black Elk Wilderness.  Dave kindly invited Lupe and SPHP to come along.

The plan was to go from Sylvan Lake up Trail No. 9, which went past an older, similar bench also provided by the Highpointers Foundation.  From there Lupe would get to summit Black Elk Peak (7,242 ft.) before making a loop back along Trail No. 4.

Dave Covill and Lupe at the first bench along Trail No. 9.
Black Elk Peak (R of Center in the distance) from the viewpoint close to the first bench. Photo looks NE.
At the only creek crossing along Trail No. 9.

Everything went as planned.  An hour later Lupe was approaching the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota.  The Highpointers Foundation had helped pay for restoration work, including new windows in the top of the tower.

Practically to the top now! Those are the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) (L) and Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) is the big knob seen just L of my head. Photo looks SSW.
Approaching the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak. Photo looks N.
On the rock wall around the lookout tower’s viewing deck. Photo looks W.

Dave maintained that the highest natural point on Black Elk Peak was just outside the N wall of the lookout tower.  Since the Highpointers Foundation is dedicated to education, support, and conservation of the highest point in each of the 50 U.S. states, Lupe figured Dave ought to know.  The Carolina Dog made the little scramble up to it.

Looper at South Dakota’s natural high point.

Black Elk Peak wasn’t crowded, but it was busy.  A nice 25 minute stay, and it was time to let others enjoy a bit more serenity.  Besides, Dave needed to get over to that new bench along Trail No. 4!

As South Dakota’s high point, Black Elk Peak is one of the most popular hikes in the Black Hills! Guess we’re about to head out again now. Photo looks SSE.
Heading down the metal stairway that used to freak Lupe out. After 9 ascents, she’s fine with it now. Photo looks SE.

Trail No. 4 passes between the Cathedral Spires (6840 ft.) and Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.).  At a point with a view of Black Elk Peak a mile to the N, Lupe came to the beautiful new bench donated by the Maura and Karen Raffensperger families and the Highpointers Foundation in memory of Grace Underwood Raffensperger.  Many years ago, Grace had homesteaded in the Black Hills.

Lupe tests out the lovely new Grace Raffensperger bench along Trail No. 4.
The Cathedral Spires are this close to the Raffensperger bench!

5-31-20, 1:12 PM, 80ºF, Sylvan Lake – Back at Sylvan Lake, it was time for good-byes.  Dave had to hit the road home to Colorado, and was soon on his way.

Last day of May already!  Thanks to Dave’s visit, Lupe had finally gotten her 2020 mountain adventures off to a good, but much delayed start.  With June just hours away, the Carolina Dog once again had high hopes for a spectacular Summer of 2020!

With Dave Covill at the Raffensperger bench along Trail No. 4, Black Elk Wilderness, South Dakota 5-31-20
Dave Covill (L) on Devils Tower 5-29-20 with friends Justin Schaffer (L), Stephen Henry (R) in back, and Sheryl Lampert in front. Guide Lansdon Alcorn (far R). Missouri Buttes in the distance.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                 Prior Black Hills Adventure

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 181 – Missouri Buttes, WY (11-6-16)

Highpointers Foundation

Nuckolls Ranch on Facebook

Devils Tower National Monument

The Legend of Devils Tower

Climb Devils Tower!Devils Tower Lodge

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