Day 13 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
Cloudy. Not too bad, though. The sun couldn’t be seen, but a bright spot revealed its position. The clouds must not be too thick. For the second day in a row, Lupe started her morning off with a look at beautiful Chilkoot Inlet.
Lupe starts another morning at Chilkoot Inlet near Haines, Alaska. Photo looks SE.
Maybe the sky would clear later in the day? Perhaps not. It might not even matter.
Lupe had seen Mount Riley(1,759 ft.), the high point of the Chilkat Peninsula, from Mount Ripinsky(3,675 ft.) yesterday afternoon. Mount Riley wasn’t high enough to get above tree line, even here in Alaska. The whole mountain appeared heavily forested. Maybe Mount Riley wasn’t going to amount to anything more than a peakbagging goal. Trees might be all Loop would get to see. On the other paw, if the sun did make an appearance, and mountain and ocean views were available from Mount Riley, they ought to be spectacular!
In any case, since it wasn’t raining, Lupe was going to find out what Mount Riley had to offer. After a few morning chores, SPHP drove to Chilkat State Park only a mile or two SE of Haines. Loop would set out for Mount Riley from the Battery Point trailhead at the end of Beach Road. (9:00 AM, 57°F)
Lupe arrives at the Battery Point trailhead. A second trailhead for Mount Riley exists on the other side of the Chilkat Peninsula at Mud Bay.
Setting out, Lupe followed the Battery Point trail, a wide, smooth path leading SE through tall open forest. The Battery Point trail was mostly flat, gaining little, if any, net elevation. Chilkoot Inlet wasn’t far from the trail, but was never in view. The forest hid everything, which might well be par for the course today.
Lupe started out on the wide, flat Battery Point trail going through a tall forest. Chilkoot Inlet wasn’t far away, but couldn’t be seen. Photo looks SE.
After 0.9 mile, Lupe came to an intersection. A trail to Mount Riley branched off curving W farther up into the forest. The Battery Point trail went down to Chilkoot Inlet from here. Although it was a mile to Battery Point, Kelgaya Point was only 0.3 mile away.
Loop and SPHP both agreed it might be fun to go to Kelgaya Point. Such a short side trip wouldn’t take long, and beat spending the whole day in the forest.
0.9 mile from the Battery Point trailhead, Lupe reached the intersection with the Mount Riley trail. The short 0.3 mile side trip to Kelgaya Point sounded like fun.
The Battery Point trail went right on down to Chilkoot Inlet. The tide was out. Lupe and SPHP headed E for Kelgaya Point across a rocky beach. At Kelgaya Point, a rock formation rose at the edge of the water.
Lupe on the beach near Kelgaya Point. Photo looks E.
Naturally, Lupe climbed up on the rocks for a look around.
Up on the Kelgaya Point rock formation. Photo looks E.Come on up, SPHP! It’s cloudy, but the view is still worth seeing. I can see Mount Ripinsky from here!
SPHP joined Lupe up on Kelgaya Point. If anything, the day was even cloudier than earlier on, but the views of Chilkoot Inlet and surrounding mountains were still beautiful. Back toward Haines, Lupe could see Mount Ripinsky(3,675 ft.), which she had climbed yesterday.
Looking E across Chilkoot Inlet from Kelgaya Point.Chilkoot Inlet from Kelgaya Point. Looking N now.From Kelgaya Point, Lupe could see Mount Ripinsky(3,675 ft.) (L), which she had climbed yesterday. Photo looks NW.
Near the E end of Kelgaya Point a more prominent rock outcropping formed a crude miniature spire. Lupe scrambled up. From the spire, she had the best vantage point of all.
At the E end of Kelgaya Point was this small spire. Lupe managed to get up there, but SPHP didn’t even try. Photo looks SE.The views are even better up here, SPHP! What, you aren’t coming up?
It was possible to go beyond Kelgaya Point all the way to Battery Point, but Lupe and SPHP didn’t do that. Mount Riley was the main goal for the day, so maybe it was best to be underway again.
Lupe could have gone farther all the way to Battery Point, which is beyond the forested hill on the R, but she went back to the main trail to Mount Riley with SPHP instead. Photo looks SE across Kelgaya Bay.
Loop and SPHP returned to the trail intersection to take the trail to Mount Riley. It curved W deeper into the Chilkat Peninsula climbing steadily. Near the end of this climb, a short section of switchbacks wound up the steepest part of the slope. Before reaching the top, the trail leveled out and turned SE again.
Lupe had to take what she could get. Spiffy Fern Rock was a trail highlight.
The Mount Riley trail bounced up and down on the side of a fairly steep slope. There was nothing to see except the forest. The trail here was much narrower and looked far less traveled than the Battery Point trail. Red ribbons and small wooden boards with fading red arrows painted on them were attached to the trees, helping to point the way. The trail was obvious enough so these assists were seldom needed.
For a long way, there was nothing to see except forest.
Lupe was passing through a coastal rainforest. Ferns and moss were common on the forest floor.
Every now and then there were obstacles like the fallen tree ahead, but they weren’t common. Note the mossy steep bank.At least this territory was easy on the paws! Oh, so soft!
After traveling along the steep hillside, the trail finally turned S and started up a ravine. Lupe passed near big mossy rock outcroppings in this area.
As the trail began to climb again, Lupe passed by a few large mossy rock formations.
The mossy rock formations were confined to a small area along the ravine. Near the end of this section, the trail snuck up between two big rocks climbing fairly steeply. Above the rocks, the trail began to level out. Lupe was still gaining elevation, but at a reduced pace. For the first time, Looper got a glimpse of what was ahead. The view wasn’t terribly encouraging or inspiring.
Once up above the rock formations, the trail wasn’t as steep. For the first time, Lupe caught a glimpse of what was ahead. Gray skies, more forest, and higher ground, but not much of a mountain peak. Photo looks S.
All that was ahead was a higher forested hill. Nothing one might call a mountain peak. Until now, Lupe hadn’t even been able to get a good look at the sky. The news there wasn’t great, either. If anything, the sky was grayer and more densely overcast than before. Despite uninspiring prospects, Loop and SPHP pressed on.
Lower down there had been some blueberry bushes along the trail, but no blueberries on them. Up here, there were blueberry bushes galore! Even better, they were packed with sweet blueberries. SPHP soon had purple fingers. The pace of advance slowed markedly. Blueberries were everywhere! Blueberry bushes lined the trail and even overhung it.
The blueberries were delicious, but the blueberry bushes were all wet from overnight rains. SPHP was soon soaking wet nearly waist high. The Carolina Dog was getting nothing out of this experience. The trail amounted to a sopping wet blueberry bush tunnel to her. Poor Loopster couldn’t see a thing, and was soon as soaked as if she’d been swimming. She looked miserable.
Things stayed that way for a while. Then it started to rain. Lightly, but still rain. No matter. Conditions weren’t that bad. At least it wasn’t cold and windy like the summit of Mount Ripinsky had been yesterday. Lupe was going to make it to the top of Mount Riley. She had come too far to turn around now.
After a level muddy stretch, the trail steepened again. Blueberry bushes no longer crowded the trail as much. Lupe perked up. What really snapped her out of the doldrums, though, was a sudden, loud crashing in the forest. SPHP whirled around in time to see a moose run off.
Lupe couldn’t see the moose, but she knew something big was out there! She bounded around trying to see above the vegetation blocking her view, but was disappointed. The moose was gone.
Too much time had been spent devouring blueberries. Getting to Mount Riley was taking forever. After a steady climb, the trail finally leveled out at a meadow, the first real opening in the forest Lupe had come to.
After what seemed like a long trek, Lupe finally reached this meadow, the first real opening in the forest. On a sunnier day, the view would have been gorgeous.
The trail crossed the meadow. On the far side, Lupe reached a sign. She had made it to the junction with the trail from Mud Bay. The summit of Mount Riley wasn’t much further! That forested ridge ahead must be it.
After crossing the meadow, Lupe reaches an intersection with the trail coming up from Mud Bay.Since the total distance to Mount Riley from the Battery Point trailhead was supposed to be 4.6 miles, Lupe was now only 0.6 mile away.The summit of Mount Riley was somewhere on the forested ridge ahead.
Loopster soon arrived at the summit of Mount Riley(1,759 ft.). At the top of the mountain, she found an unimposing ridge of gray rock. The ridge barely stuck up above a stunted forest enough to provide what should have been a spectacular view of the Chilkat and Chilkoot Inlets ringed by snow and glacier clad peaks.
The American Dingo could claim Mount Riley as a peakbagging success, but the views were far from what they might have been. A light rain fell intermittently. Mist and fog were all around, but not to the point where Lupe couldn’t get an idea of what she was missing out there.
Lupe arrives at the summit of Mount Riley amid light rain, mist and fog. Haines, Alaska is straight up from her back. Mount Ripinsky is straight up from her head. Chilkat Inlet is on the L. Photo looks NW.Looking N across Chilkoot Inlet. Taiya Inlet leading to Skagway is seen in the distance.Oh, for a sunny day!The delta seen on the far side of Chilkat Inlet is Anchorage Point. Photo looks SW.Chilkat Inlet. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.Mount Ripinsky(3,675 ft.) (Center) where Lupe had been yesterday. Haines is on the R. Chilkat Inlet on the L. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Oh, for a rare sunny day! Rain, mist and fog are no doubt very common in the Haines area. Lupe certainly wasn’t getting much out of these views at the moment. When she heard distant gunfire, she was done looking around. Somewhere far off, someone was doing some target practice.
Why stand out in the rain at the top of the mountain offering the best, and likely only, possible target? The American Dingo retreated to the safety of a stunted conifer offering protection from both rain and bullets.
Look around all you like, SPHP. Paint a bullseye on yourself, if you want to! I’m staying right here!The ridge of rock at the top of Mount Riley was barely high enough to allow a view over the trees in some directions.
While the American Dingo hid out a few feet away, SPHP stood on Mount Riley’s diminutive summit ridge. Conditions were gradually getting damper, darker and drearier. The weather seemed to be moving up from the Lynn Canal to the S.
Kal Benchmark (1,450 ft.) (L) and Sullivan Island (Center). Rain and fog were moving in from this direction. Photo looks S.
Things weren’t that bad, but with the weather deteriorating instead of improving, there didn’t seem to be much reason to hang around either. Half an hour after she’d arrived, Lupe was ready to start back. She returned to Mount Riley’s summit rocks briefly before departing.
Loop comes out from under her safe, snug conifer tree for a last look around from Mount Riley. Photo looks N.Looking back up at the summit ridge after starting down.
A few little birds and a couple of squirrels were all the wildlife Lupe could conjure up on the long return trip through the forest. The moose crashing around that she hadn’t even gotten to see on the way up was the highlight of the whole day as far as excitement was concerned.
SPHP gorged on blueberries again until the trail dropped below the short section of mossy rock formations. Despite the red ribbons and arrows, SPHP then cleverly managed to miss a turn on the trail, resulting in an unnecessary descent of 100 plus feet of elevation before the mistake was realized and corrected.
Looking down a narrow gap between mossy rock formations on the way back to the trailhead.Passing below the rock formations.
Of course, after leaving the summit, the weather gradually improved. The rain ceased, but the sky remained gray. Lupe made it back to the G6 (4:29 PM, 61°F). There wasn’t much of a plan for the rest of the day.
On the way back to town, Loop and SPHP stopped at a viewpoint where Mount Ripinsky could be seen towering over Haines.
Haines, Alaska across Portage Cove with Mount Ripinsky (L) in the background. Photo looks NW.
Then it was on to Lupe’s favorite pullout on Lutak Road with a view of Portage Cove, Haines and the Chilkoot Inlet. Lupe dined on Alpo and Ritz crackers. SPHP caught up the trip journal. More than an hour went by. The sky looked like it would be gray forever, but it was still light out.
If the weather had been better, Lupe had more to do in the Haines area, but it wasn’t. Looking out over Portage Cove, it was sad to think about leaving Haines, but the Carolina Dog had more adventures awaiting where the skies might be blue. Maybe it was time?
Despite the cloudy skies, the evening’s drive was beautiful. By nightfall, Lupe reached Dezadeash Lake.
On Mount Riley, Chilkat State Park, Alaska 8-12-17
Mount Riley Trailhead Notes:
Battery Point Trailhead:From the E end of Main Street in Haines next to Portage Cove, take Front Street S to Beach Road. After a mile, Beach Road angles R and turns to dirt. The Chilkat State Park Battery Point trailhead is at the SE end of Beach Road about a mile farther on. The summit of Mount Riley is 4.6 miles from the trailhead.
Mud Bay Trailhead:From Main Street in Haines, take 3rd Avenue going S. 3rd Avenue becomes Mud Bay Road. Watch for signs for Chilkat State Park. Parking is on the R (W) at the top of a hill roughly 3 miles from downtown. The Mud Bay trail starts on the other side of the road. It’s 2.8 miles to the intersection with the trail from Battery Point, and another 0.5 mile to Mt. Riley’s summit.
Days 11 & 12 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
Day 11, 8-10-17 – After 3 big days of adventure in a row, Loop and SPHP were both looking forward to taking it easy. Even a rest day would be packed with awesome scenery. Lupe could relax riding in style with splendid views as SPHP made the long drive to Haines, Alaska.
The morning began sunny and bright. Shortly after 8:00 AM, a steady stream of cars, trucks, and buses commenced on South Klondike Highway No. 2. Canadian Customs must have opened. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was underway. Loop had no problem getting through customs – she never does. For the first time ever, though, the customs officer asked to see her current rabies certificate. Everything was in order, and Loopster was northward bound.
With a whole day to get to Haines, Loop had plenty of time for short stops at points of interest along the way. Tutshi Lake was first in line. The Carolina Dog stopped by several viewpoints along the lake’s W shore.
Tutshi Lake was the first point of interest Lupe stopped at along the South Klondike Highway N of Canadian Customs. Photo looks NNE.Tutshi Lake is in far NW British Columbia S of Carcross in the Yukon and N of Skagway, Alaska. Photo looks S.The N end of Tutshi Lake bends E away from the South Klondike Highway, extending for miles through the Canadian wilderness. Photo looks NE.
Whitehorse, capitol city of the Yukon, was the first big town Lupe and SPHP had been in for a week since leaving Prince George. Boring stops for supplies and fuel were mandatory. Lupe did enjoy a visit to the S.S. Klondike, a sternwheeler steamship which used to ply the upper Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City.
In Whitehorse, Lupe got to drop by the S.S. Klondike, which used to ply the upper Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City.
NW of Whitehorse, SPHP stopped by Takhini Hot Pools, a relatively short detour (6 miles or 10 km) off the North Klondike Highway at the end of Hot Springs Road. The day was sunny and warm (75°F). SPHP had to leave the windows down on the G6 so Loop wouldn’t roast. SPHP spent an hour or more relaxing in the hot springs. Lupe spent it warily eyeing numerous bees buzzing about.
So how was it, SPHP?
The Takhini Hot Pools were great, Looper! Needed that. Not nearly so awesome a setting as Liard Hot Springs and twice the price, but I did enjoy the hot pools and it sure feels wonderful to be clean again!
You sniff better too now, SPHP, so that’s a good thing. Now can we get out of here? I’m lucky I haven’t gotten stung. The G6 has been humming ever since you left. These hot springs stops may be grand for you, but I’m not gettin’ a whole lot out of them.
Yeah, let’s head out. Sorry about the bees and the wait. We’ll keep the windows down for a ways and hopefully lose this swarm pretty quickly. Glad you’re OK.
The bees had thankfully all flown out the windows by the time Looper was back on the Alaska Highway. Finally able to relax again, she enjoyed a long, pleasant cruise W. At Haines Junction, SPHP turned S on Highway No. 3. 20 minutes later, Lupe was at beautiful Kathleen Lake with a view of King’s Throne(6,529 ft.) in Kluane National Park.
Only a little over a year ago, Lupe had climbed King’s Throne on a windy day. It had been a marvelous, though difficult, adventure. Loop and SPHP were the last of the few that had persevered all the way to the summit. The views of Kathleen Lake and the wild mountains to the W had been spectacular!
The Carolina Dog wasn’t going to climb King’s Throne again today, but it was fun to gaze up and remember what a day that had been! Lupe and SPHP took a stroll along the shore of Kathleen Lake, then returned to the G6 to devour a roasted chicken purchased in Whitehorse with a fabulous view of the mountain.
Highway No. 3 S of King’s Throne was a gorgeous drive! Lupe and SPHP had never been here before. The highway was in great condition, like new really, and traffic was sparse. Lupe saw Dezadeash Lake followed by many miles of unspoiled tundra and magnificent mountains. The farther S Lupe and SPHP went, the more snow and ice was seen clinging to these remote and increasingly rugged peaks.
Lupe made quite a few stops to sniff the air. Sometimes she took short walks out onto the vast tundra.
The drive S on Highway No. 3 to Haines was absolutely gorgeous! Lupe made many short stops to admire the tundra and magnificent remote peaks.Loop and SPHP were always checking out the mountains to see if they might be something she could climb. Even when they looked like possibilities, it was often hard to tell if there might be intervening large streams or rivers that she couldn’t get across.Of course, the most awesome peaks were far beyond Lupe and SPHP’s capabilities.
Highway No. 3 eventually went over a pass. On the other side, it was clear the road was about to lose a ton of elevation on the way down into a vast canyon. Before making the descent, SPHP found a place to park. Loop was ready to blow off some steam exploring the pass. The day had been clouding up, making the mountains appear solemn and remote, but the American Dingo had a good time.
After Highway No. 3 went over a pass, it was clear Lupe was about to lose a ton of elevation descending into the canyon ahead on the L. SPHP parked the G6, so Lupe could run off some energy exploring the area near the pass. Photo looks SW.From another angle, this mountain E of the pass had looked like a peak Lupe could climb. Heh, guess not, although she could have made it up to the high point on the R.Impressive peaks and glaciers formed the towering W side of the canyon Lupe was approaching. All that snow meant Loop was getting closer to the ocean.Lupe enjoys half an hour out of the G6. Looks like she is going to be ready for her next big adventure coming up tomorrow!Wow! What beautiful mountains! Under blue skies they must really be incredible.
After Lupe’s short break from the G6, SPHP drove on down into the canyon. By the time the Carolina Dog reached the bottom, she couldn’t have been much above sea level. Highway No. 3 became No. 7 at the Alaska border. The highway followed the N bank of the braided Klehini River.
After leaving the Yukon and crossing the border into Alaska, Lupe stands on the N bank of the braided Klehini River.
The Klehini River proved to be a tributary of the Chilkat River, which flowed SE the rest of the way to Haines. The Chilkat River is known for the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, created to protect the world’s largest concentration of bald eagles. The eagles tend to congregate here in fall and winter. Lupe didn’t see any bald eagles today.
The Klehini River flows into the Chilkat River, which in turn flows SE toward the Chilkat Inlet of the Lynn Canal near Haines. The Chilkat River is known for the world’s largest concentration of bald eagles.
Lupe reached Haines near sundown at the end of what had become an overcast day. Haines was in a fantastic setting on Portage Cove. Towering snow and ice-capped peaks were in view across Chilkoot Inlet. This dark evening, the town itself seemed quiet and small beneath the gray sky. Haines did not look nearly so much like a tourist town as Skagway had. No cruise ships could be seen in port.
Remaining daylight was quickly fading away. A place to park was found along the Chilkoot Inlet. Soon Lupe and SPHP were fading away, too.
Day 12, 8-11-17 – Lupe was up bright and early. Well, sort of. The sky was still thinly overcast, so the morning wasn’t quite as bright as it might have been. Lupe started her day checking out the view of the Chilkoot Inlet. Although it had taken a full day to drive to Haines (at an admittedly leisurely pace), it was odd to think that the Carolina Dog really wasn’t all that far from where she’d started out yesterday morning. Skagway was just up Taiya Inlet, which Lupe could see from here.
Up early, Lupe checks out the view of the Chilkoot Inlet. Photo looks SE.
The first couple hours of the morning were spent at a pullout along Portage Cove with a view of Haines. This pullout would soon become a favorite spot while in the Haines area.
Lupe had a big adventure planned for today. She was going to climb both Mount Ripinsky(3,675 ft.) and Shakuseyi Peak(3,917 ft.)! It was an ambitious plan, so the American Dingo would need to get a fairly early start.
She couldn’t start too early, though. SPHP had to go shopping first. Not the usual window shopping, but real shopping. With money. After Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.) two days ago, SPHP’s R boot was threatening to disintegrate. Haines didn’t seem to have much of a business district, but SPHP did find a store that was half grocery store, half general store.
So did you get new boots in there, SPHP? You weren’t gone very long.
Nope, not boots, Looper. Did find some new shoes, though. Some sort of running shoes, I think.
Running shoes! Don’t ever remember you doing much in the way of running, SPHP. That’s my specialty.
Well, maybe I’ll take it up. Have a look. Kind of sweet aren’t they?
Why, they are the prettiest little shoes you’ve ever had, SPHP! They could be dancing slippers they look so light. The bright blue and grey look good together. I hope you actually can run in them. We’ll be able to climb ever so many more mountains, if you can pick up the pace!
Hah, we’ll have to see about that! They are rather pretty aren’t they? Merrells, too! Regularly $90 marked down to $54.
Oh, a bargain! I’m still surprised you didn’t get any boots. They look great for racing around, but not so rugged for climbing mountains. Think they’ll last?
Eh, maybe for a while. They did have one great advantage over everything else in there.
What’s that?
They were the only pair of anything in my size. Made for an easy decision. This store had a “no dithering required” selection.
And with that, Lupe was on her way to the Mount Ripinsky trailhead. SPHP found it at the end of Young Street, parking the G6 beneath the shade of some trees nearby instead of in the sandy, exposed parking lot. (9:49 AM, 54°F)
Lupe wasn’t off to much of an early start at all, but at least she was on her way. The first part of the trail followed a level ATV road.
Lupe at the start of the Mount Ripinsky trail. She followed this ATV road only a couple hundred yards before another sign pointed L up into the forest where a wide foot trail left the road.
After only a couple hundred yards, the Mount Ripinsky trail left the ATV road going L up into the forest. Here the trail was a wide, well-worn path, which in 150 feet brought Loop to a trailhead kiosk with maps and information.
North Summit is the top of Mount Ripinsky. Peak 3920 is Shakuseyi Peak. Lupe hoped to get to both of them.Lupe reaches the trailhead kiosk.According to this map, Lupe was actually starting out at the Skyline Trailhead. (Seen at far R) Several other routes up Mount Ripinsky are possible from other trailheads. Lupe and SPHP were taking the longest, but easiest approach.
Beyond the kiosk, the trail soon began to climb and quickly narrowed down to a good single track. Lupe was in an open forest of very tall trees. The forest floor contained some strange plants with huge dark green leaves 2 or 3 feet long and nearly 1.5 feet wide. Devil’s club and other plants were present, too.
Lupe did not run around exploring this forest. She stayed right on the trail, which was probably best, anyway. Early on, there were sometimes wooden stairs or ramps with a sort of shingle-like material fastened to them for better traction. Loop enjoyed running up and down these wooden pathways. The whole forest was quite reminiscent of Lupe’s adventure in the Ancient Forest SE of Prince George, except that the trees here were not nearly as large in circumference as the redcedars of the Ancient Forest had been.
Lupe did not explore this coastal rainforest, but enjoyed running up and down the wooden stairways present on some early sections of the Mount Ripinsky trail.
The Mount Ripinsky trail gained elevation steadily for a long way. Loop was soon past the last of the wooden stairs and ramps. The vegetation changed. The strange plants with the huge leaves and Devil’s club gave way to blueberry bushes, a delightful development in SPHP’s opinion.
These blueberry bushes were several feet tall. While walking the trail, SPHP could easily snag delicious, fresh blueberries without even having to stoop over. There were two distinct varieties, the usual purplish blue blueberries and a shinier, dark, nearly black version. Both were sweet and wonderful, with a bit of tartness.
The blueberries slowed progress down quite a bit, as SPHP dilly-dallied at particularly abundant bushes. Lupe kept a watchful eye out for any developments in the forest of interest to Dingoes, but she didn’t even see a squirrel, much less anything as exciting as a bear.
Lupe kept a watchful eye on the forest while SPHP enjoyed blueberry feasts, but she never even saw so much as a squirrel.
The trail went on and on through the forest. Although the sky remained overcast, the sun managed to shine through to a degree. A cool, muggy atmosphere prevailed. It was hardly warm, but even in only a T-shirt, SPHP was sweating. The humidity was getting to Lupe, too. She became listless and plodded along at SPHP’s heels.
A series of steep climbs were followed by nearly flat sections. Lupe passed by several junctions with trails coming in from the S. She always stayed R at these intersections continuing NW on the Main or North Summit trail, as signs alternatively called it. The Ridge trail intersection came first, followed by junctions with the E and W Piedad trails.
By the time Loopster reached the W Piedad trail intersection she was at close to 2,000 feet elevation and halfway to Mount Ripinsky. So far she hadn’t had views of anything except forest and SPHP greedily devouring blueberries. Nothing much changed for a while longer, but eventually things finally began to open up. Lupe could see two high hills ahead. The more distant one appeared to be above tree line.
Lupe was well beyond the junction with the West Piedad trail when she finally came to this opening in the forest. She could see two high hills ahead. Photo looks NW.
The trail returned to the forest as Lupe started up the first hill. Back at the beginning of the Mount Ripinsky trail, the trees had been very tall. Up here, they were all short, apparently stunted by a much harsher climate at this elevation. Approaching the top of the first hill, the stunted forest gave way to steep alpine meadows.
Lupe was finally getting some pretty impressive views.
Looking down on Haines, Alaska from the upper slopes of the first hill. Chilkat Inlet is on the R. Chilkoot Inlet on the L. They both meet in the distance to form the Lynn Canal. Photo looks SE.Looper in the alpine meadows on her way up the first hill. Photo looks NW.Heading up the first hill. Mount Emmerich(6,800 ft.) is on the R. Photo looks SW.Loop with a fabulous view of Chilkat Inlet. Photo looks SSE.
From the top of the first steep hill, the second one was in view a short distance ahead. Lupe would actually lose a bit of elevation getting to its base, but another steep climb would then ensue.
From the first hill, Lupe has a clear view of the second one ahead. It would be another steep climb, but fortunately not a long one. This second bare hill is actually Mount Ripinsky’s lower S summit. Photo looks NW.
Near the top of the second hill, the trail was badly eroded. Lupe had no trouble with it, but SPHP struggled to some degree. Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP were soon on top. This second hill was actually Mount Ripinsky’s lower S summit. The N summit, which was the true summit, was now in view directly ahead.
From the second hill, which is actually Mount Ripinsky’s lower S summit, Lupe has a clear view of the true N summit ahead. It’s not far off now! Photo looks NW.
Mount Ripinsky’s true summit wasn’t much farther now. However, a chilly SW breeze had come up. The clouds were thicker, and the sky was noticeably darker than before. A glance toward the S looked like matters were about to deteriorate further. Rain was coming.
The views might easily disappear completely before Lupe could reach the true summit. Better take a few photos from here, just in case. This open alpine tundra was much more to Lupe’s liking than the forest had been. She was having fun running around, but agreed to cut her romp short to give SPHP a paw.
Lupe on Mount Ripinsky’s S summit. The Chilkat Inlet is on the R, with the Lynn Canal beyond it in the distance. Tomorrow Lupe was going to climb the lower dark hill on the L, which is Mount Riley(1,759 ft.). Photo looks SSE.Rugged icy peaks of the Chilkat Range are in view on the far side of the Chilkat River valley from Mount Ripinsky’s lower S summit. Photo looks S.Mount Emmerich (6,800 ft.) (L) from Mount Ripinsky’s S summit. Photo looks SW.Chilkoot Inlet is on the R. In the foreground on the L is the SE end of Lutak Inlet. The dirty gray water at far L is the S end of Taiyasanka Harbor. The S end of Taiya Inlet, which leads to Skagway, is in the distance on the L. Photo looks NE.High peaks of the Chilkat Range. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.Mount Emmerich(6,800 ft.) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Much to Lupe’s delight, the saddle leading to Mount Ripinsky’s N summit contained several large snowbanks. A small tarn was present, too. SPHP had gotten to dilly-dally among the blueberry bushes, so Lupe figured she ought to be able to goof around frolicking on the snow for a bit.
Lupe goofs around frolicking on a big snowbank in the saddle between the S and true summits of Mount Ripinsky. The area where the Taiya Inlet and Chilkat Inlet meet is seen on the L. Mount Villard(4,990 ft.) is the highest peak in the foreground on the R.Mount Emmerich (L) and the Chilkat River valley from the saddle. Photo looks W.Mount Villard(4,990 ft.) (L of Center) from the saddle between Mount Ripinsky’s S & N summits. Photo looks E.
Minutes before Lupe reached the true N summit of Mount Ripinsky, a light rain started in. The wind kept blowing more strongly as conditions continued to deteriorate. SPHP resorted to putting on a thermal layer and a rain poncho. Looper just had to endure getting cold and wet.
In wind and light rain, Lupe reaches the sign at Mount Ripinsky’s N summit. Photo looks NW.Lupe poses in the strengthening wind on Mount Ripinsky. Shakuseyi Peak(3,920 ft.), her next peakbagging goal, is ahead at far L. Photo looks NNW.Lupe perches somewhat reluctantly in wind and light rain at the true summit of Mount Ripinsky. Chilkoot Inlet (L) and Chilkat Inlet (R) are in still in sight despite the deteriorating weather. Mount Riley(1,759 ft.) is much lower at Center. Photo looks SE.On top of Mount Ripinsky! Chilkat Inlet on the R. Photo looks SE.Mount Ripinsky(3,675 ft.) summit.A fair look at the Chilkat Peninsula given the conditions. The hill on the R is the site of the Kal Benchmark (1,450 ft.).Looking down on the convergence of the Lutak (L), Taiya (Center beyond the point), and Chilkoot (R) inlets. Photo looks E.Chilkat River valley. Photo looks WSW.
Making it to the summit of Mount Ripinsky was only half of the plan for the day. Lupe was still supposed to go on to Shakuseyi Peak(3,920 ft.), which was in sight to the NW. SPHP had seen a metal container chained to the top rocks on Mount Ripinsky. No doubt it contained a registry, but between the deteriorating weather and pondering whether it made any sense to continue on to Shakuseyi Peak, SPHP failed to sign it for Looper before she left the summit.
Loop and SPHP made a start for Shakuseyi Peak, but didn’t get far at all before it was pretty clear that an unavoidable loss of hundreds of feet of elevation would be involved. The trail ahead wound along a narrow ridgeline that looked like fun. However, it was still another 2.8 miles to Shakuseyi Peak, and the weather was only getting worse. Lupe would have to retrace every step on the return trip.
Mount Shakuseyi, the pointy hill at Center, was Lupe’s next peakbagging goal. Unfortunately, the weather continued to deteriorate. Photo looks NW.
The wind started to gust. Rain fell harder. The world was turning gray as more distant high peaks faded from view. It was getting just plain raw and miserable out. Conditions weren’t awful, but they weren’t much fun either. Did Lupe want to go back to the G6?
Finally! I thought you would never ask!
At the mere suggestion, Lupe barked like a nutcase, she leapt at SPHP, she ran in circles.
Already sick of being cold and wet, aye? I’ll take that as a yes.
It was too bad that Shakuseyi Peak had to be abandoned, but under the circumstances, it seemed the only reasonable thing to do. Who knew what was in store? Lupe returned to the summit of Mount Ripinsky, then started back down the trail toward the lower S summit.
After giving up on Shakuseyi Peak, Lupe returned briefly to the summit of Mount Ripinsky. It’s a misty view, but the Katzehin River delta is seen at R where the river empties into the Chilkoot Inlet. Photo looks SE.Heading down into the saddle leading to the S summit. Photo looks SE.
Of course, life being what it is, the weather began improving almost as soon as Loop lost appreciable elevation. However, it was hard to know how it would all turn out. This might easily be nothing more than a temporary respite. Other than a dull sense of remorse over not persevering, no further thoughts were devoted to Shakuseyi Peak.
Lupe continued back toward Haines and the trailhead. At least the views hadn’t been totally devoured by fog and rain.
Starting down from the lower S summit. Haines, Alaska is in view. Portage Cove, a bay off Chilkoot Inlet, is on the L.The Chilkat Peninsula extends SSE from Haines. It includes both Mount Riley (L) and lower Kal Benchmark (R), which is not an island. At the far end Chilkoot (L) and Chilkat (R) Inlets meet at Seduction Point to form the Lynn Canal. The N end of Sullivan Island is seen in distance on the R. Photo looks SSE.Taiya Point at the far S end of Halutu Ridge is on the L. On the near side is the SE end of Lutak Inlet. On the far side of Taiya Point is the S end of Taiya Inlet, which goes N to Skagway. Chilkoot Inlet is on the R. Photo looks ENE.Getting down close to tree line again. Mount Riley (L), Kal Benchmark (Center), and Sullivan Island (R). Photo looks SSE.Kal Benchmark (1,450 ft.) (Center) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.Lupe takes a final look before descending into the forest.
By the time Lupe was back in the forest, the rain had quit. The wind wasn’t blowing down here, either. It warmed up enough so that even going downhill SPHP had to peel off the thermal layer. Oh, well. Lupe made it back to the G6. (5:52 PM, 62°F)
The evening was spent at the now favorite pullout on the N side of Portage Cove with a view of Haines. The rain started in again almost as soon as Lupe and SPHP arrived. Maybe not going on to Shakuseyi Peak hadn’t been a bad decision after all?
The rain continued off and on all evening. Whenever it abated, Loop and SPHP went out for short strolls along the beach. Most of the time, Lupe relaxed in the G6. SPHP made ham and cheese sandwiches. Later on it was cheese and crackers. The American Dingo deemed both sheer brilliance, and eagerly participated.
Beneath gray skies and light rain, a couple of paddleboarders rounded a point and paddled for Haines. The cruise ship Norwegian Sun appeared sailing down Chilkoot Inlet on its way S from Skagway. It did not stop at Haines.
Loop and SPHP took a long snooze, awaking to find that the sun must have set some time ago. Dark clouds hung low in a dim late November sky. The mountains were hidden from view. Another cruise ship sailed S in mist and fog. Brightly lit, it was a bastion of cheer amid the gloom. It also bypassed Haines and was lost from sight. (11:11 PM)
Mount Riley from the Mount Ripinsky trail. Weather permitting, Loopster would climb it tomorrow.
Mount Ripinsky Trailhead Notes
Skyline Trailhead:From Main Street in Haines, take 2nd Avenue N to where Lutak Road veers off to the R. Do not take Lutak Road. Stay straight going uphill on Young Road. Young Road turns to gravel and winds around to the NE ending at a sandy parking lot about 1.7 miles from Main Street next to the ATV road where Lupe started for Mount Ripinsky.
Piedad Trailhead:Main Street becomes Haines Highway No. 7 on the way W out of town. Piedad Road soon appears on the N side of the highway within walking distance of downtown. The Piedad trailhead is at the end of Piedad Road. This is a steeper, shorter route to Mount Ripinsky than the Skyline trail. Higher up, it splits into separate E and W routes before intersecting the main trail. West Piedad trail is the most direct.
Sevenmile Saddle Trailhead:This trailhead is seven miles NW of Haines on the N side of Haines Highway No. 7. This is a steep route which first climbs Shakuseyi Peak (Peak 3920) before continuing on to Mount Ripinsky.
Day 10 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
Something was still wrong. The road Lupe had been following from the gravel pit went only a short distance before ending at a shack in an impenetrably dense forest. This couldn’t possibly be right. If it was, the forest had grown up to such an extent that the Carolina Dog was never going to get to Fraser Peak(5,978 ft). After a quick glance around to make sure no sign of a road or trail was being missed, Loop and SPHP went back the way they’d come.
The instructions SPHP had taken off the internet before Lupe left on this Dingo Vacation seemed clear enough, and the morning had begun well. It was a beautiful, cloudless day. After leaving the International Falls trailhead, Lupe and SPHP had headed N on South Klondike Highway No. 2, stopping at a few pullouts along the way for a look at small sparkling lakes in the scenic, heavily glaciated Tormented Valley.
Lupe checks out views in the Tormented Valley near South Klondike Highway No. 2. Photo looks S.
Fraser Peak was only 5 miles N of International Falls, and easily spotted from the South Klondike Highway. There was supposed to be a pullout that serves as a trailhead on the E side of the highway about 1 km (0.6 mile) S of Canadian Customs. SPHP also watched for a side road going W or NW into the forest on the opposite side of the highway 100 meters (330 ft.) N of the pullout toward customs.
As it turned out, there were two large gravel parking areas on the E side of the South Klondike Highway. Between them SPHP did see a side road going NW from the highway. This side road was nearest to the pullout closest to Canadian Customs. It was blocked by two cement barriers, and disappeared into tall bushes and forest beyond them.
The side road was not 100 meters N from either of the pullouts. It was the wrong direction from the pullout closest to customs, and more than twice as far N as it should have been from the pullout farther S. There was no doubt Lupe was in the correct area, however. Fraser Peak was right where it should be, and so was Canadian Customs. Maybe the online directions were just a bit sloppy?
SPHP turned the G6 around and drove back to the pullout farther away from customs. Lupe would start for Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.) from here. (11:05 AM, 66°F)
Fraser Peak from the gravel pullout on the E side of South Klondike Highway No. 2 roughly 1 km S of Canadian Customs. Photo looks WSW.Another look with some help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.
Loop crossed over to the W side of South Klondike Highway No. 2. It still bothered SPHP that the side road was so far from the pullout. As the Carolina Dog followed the highway N, SPHP kept an eye out for signs of another road, but saw nothing. Lupe reached the side road with its concrete barriers perhaps 250 meters from where the G6 was parked.
The side road headed W or NW into the forest, as expected. This road was supposed to go 0.6 km before reaching a junction with another road near a gate. Lupe would take the second road SW to Fraser Peak.
Fine and dandy, but that wasn’t how it worked out. After entering the forest, the side road soon curved N away from Fraser Peak. Unexpected. Finding no sign of any trail continuing NW, Lupe and SPHP stuck with the road. Before long Looper arrived at a gravel pit.
So, we’ve come all the way to NW British Columbia to tour a gravel pit, aye, SPHP? Better take another look at those directions! Photo looks N.
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was right. Better check those directions again. The directions did mention this gravel pit and a highway maintenance garage as an alternate starting point for Fraser Peak. For those coming from the N who don’t want to have to go through Canadian Customs, a road to the gravel pit leaves the W side of South Klondike Highway No. 2 shortly before reaching customs.
Not sure why we wound up here starting from where we did Loop, but it’s fine. There’s supposed to be an old road going SW from the NW portion of this gravel pit. It will take us to the gate we are supposed to be looking for, although it’s now 0.9 km away instead of only 0.6 km.
So follow the SW edge of this gravel pit NW looking for an old road?
Yep. That ought to do it.
Except it didn’t. Instead, when Lupe found an old road, it ended at this dilapidated shack in impenetrable forest. Hmmm. Back to the gravel pit. Maybe there was another road even farther NW? Sure enough, the American Dingo found one. Yeah, this was it alright. All systems go!
Lupe at the start of one of the two roads going SW (toward the camera) from the gravel pit. If only SPHP remembered if this was the right road, or the one going to the shack! If you take this one and arrive at a shack, come back and turn L (NW) here. The correct road isn’t far off. Photo looks NE.What’cha think of this road, SPHP? Looking better? ….. Oh yeah, Looper. No doubt about it. All systems go! Carry on, sweet Dingo.
The correct road was nearly level and went through the forest heading straight toward the lower end of Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. The whole mountain was soon in view.
Heading for Fraser Peak from the gravel pit and highway maintenance yard. Photo looks SW.
Loop reached the gate mentioned in the directions. 30 feet before the gate, a trail or faint road intersected with the road Lupe was on. It came out of the forest from the SE (L). SPHP was certain that was the route Lupe was supposed to have taken to get here from the highway. Oh, well. This had been a roundabout way, but so what? It worked.
Lupe reaches the gate mentioned in the directions. 30 feet from the gate toward the camera, a trail or faint side road intersected with the road Lupe was following. It went E or SE and had to be the shortest route back to the highway. No doubt it was the route SPHP had intended Loop to use to get here. Eh, whatever works! Photo looks SW.
Beyond the gate, the road started gaining elevation. Already near noon, it was sunny and getting hot out. There wasn’t much shade on the road. Lupe and SPHP would have liked to stop in the shade when there was some, but biting flies and mosquitoes made that not such a great idea.
The road had steepened quite a bit by the time it began curving W up a ravine. A creek in the ravine was too large and swift to cross easily. The directions said to continue following the road, anyway. The road would lead to a better place higher up to ford the creek.
Lupe near the big stream rushing down from Bryant Lake. Photo looks W.Getting closer to Fraser Peak. Photo looks SW.
The road briefly leveled out as Loop approached the ford. An elevated pipeline in a wooden housing also went over the stream. The wooden housing was clearly marked “Keep Off – Fall Hazard”, yet a distinct trail led right up to it. Clearly this warning is not always heeded.
Lupe arrives at the ford. Bryant Lake, where the stream comes from, isn’t too far away beyond the ridge ahead. Photo looks W.
The ford didn’t look bad. The water was swift and knee deep on SPHP, but the creek bottom wasn’t as full of big rocks where the road crossed it as elsewhere. SPHP waded in. Looper followed, but the fast water was deep enough to scare her. She retreated to the bank.
SPHP made it across just fine. Once on the far side, SPHP turned around to begin the process of coaxing Lupe to follow. The Carolina Dog had vanished! Looking up, there she stood, feeling foxy and quite pleased with herself on the Dingo bridge.
Warning sign? What warning sign? Mighty nice of these Canadians to provide this nifty Dingo bridge!
Now that the stream had been crossed, Lupe and SPHP left the road climbing a steep hillside to the SW. In retrospect, it might have been better to stay on the road all the way to Bryant Lake, which wasn’t all that much farther away. The lake would have been worth seeing. However, climbing the hillside was a more direct route to Fraser Peak.
Looper on her way up the steep hillside after crossing the creek and leaving the road. Photo looks E.
The steep hillside wasn’t terribly high. Loopster was soon up where the terrain leveled out to some extent. Loop and SPHP now headed S or SE toward the lower end of the big E ridge coming down from the N end of Fraser Peak.
Lupe was already near tree line. She traveled across open ground where little streams trickled down gentle slopes to shallow ponds. Yet it must have been quite dry recently. The tundra crunched beneath SPHP’s boots. Loop had a good view of the big ridge she needed to get up on ahead. A rocky ravine with a snow bank in it looked like a good place to begin the ascent.
Lupe reaches a flat area full of little streams and shallow ponds. Fraser Peak’s NE ridge is straight ahead. Lupe would try going up the ravine with the snow bank in it at Center. Photo looks SE.
Lupe and SPHP weren’t entirely alone. As the American Dingo headed for the big ridge, several grouse or ptarmigans got her all excited. They ran along the ground a short distance before flying off.
Lupe saw several of these grouse or ptarmigans on the tundra.Approaching Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. Lupe began her ascent heading for the snow bank seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.
The route up the ravine with the snow bank was steeper than expected, and the upper reaches were very rocky. Lupe had to wait around quite a bit for SPHP. She was already getting some great views of the Tormented Valley off to the E and NE.
Lupe reaches the snow bank. This upper end of the ravine she’d come up was very rocky. Photo looks SW.Lupe had plenty of time to relax while waiting for SPHP. She has a great view of a large portion of the Tormented Valley from here. Canadian Customs along South Klondike Highway No. 2 is in view on the near side of Bernard Lake. The gravel pit near customs and the road Lupe followed through the forest are also visible on the L. Photo looks NE.
When Lupe reached the ridgeline, she still had a very long climb ahead of her. Fraser Peak’s long NE ridge had a series of large gaps or gashes running across it like the one she’d come up. Just like at AB Mountain(5,036 ft.) and International Falls, these ravines were oriented SW/NE. Lupe and SPHP found it easiest to stay well S of the steeper N edge of the ridgeline when trying to get past the gaps.
Between the gaps, Lupe had to climb up and over a series of steep ridges. There was a lot of exposed rock, but for a long way there was also a fair amount of alpine vegetation. Loop was often able to follow natural vegetated ramps zig-zagging up the rock formations on the ridges.
The gaps were sometimes full of broken rock. Often there were large snow banks or hidden tarns. Lupe almost always lost some elevation crossing these ravines. The gashes made the climb significantly harder and more time consuming than going up a smoother, more even ridge would have been.
Whenever Loopster was on or climbing the ridges between the gashes, the views were tremendous. She enjoyed a splendid panorama of a vast territory to the E.
Even on the lower portions of Fraser Peak’s long, rough NE ridge Lupe had fabulous panoramic views. Long, skinny Summit Lake in the Tormented Valley is seen below. White Pass is at the far end of Summit Lake on the R. Photo looks S.Bernard Lake (Foreground) and Shallow Lake (L) form a continuous crescent down in the Tormented Valley, a great deal of which is seen here. The South Klondike Highway, Canadian Customs and gravel pit are all on the L. Photo looks NE.Miss Giant Pink Tongue enjoying the day on the way up Fraser Peak.Fraser Peak’s NE ridge was rough ground, but nothing too difficult or scary until much higher up. Photo looks W.Lupe occasionally saw more grouse or ptarmigan. Photo looks S.This grouse or ptarmigan didn’t seem worried about Lupe and SPHP passing by.Looper on one of the ridges with a grand view of Summit Lake, White Pass (R), and many beautiful peaks beyond. Photo looks SSE.
After a long, winding climb over ridges and gashes, Lupe came to the last big gash in Fraser Peak’s main NE ridge. She was above nearly all of the alpine vegetation now. The gash was full of broken rock and snow.
Looking over the last big gash Loop had to get past. Photo looks WSW.A certain Dingo was rather pleased to reach the huge snowdrift in the last big gash.In addition to the big snowdrift, the last big gash contained a lot of broken rock. Mount Carmack(6,808 ft.) is the highest peak at Center in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
Once past the final gash, the toughest part of the climb up Fraser Peak was directly ahead. This was the steepest part of the mountain. Lupe and SPHP were now much closer to the cliffy N side of the ridge. The ridge narrowed considerably as the Carolina Dog scrambled ever higher.
Lupe stands above the last gash. The hardest, steepest part of the climb up Fraser Peak was directly ahead. Photo looks WSW.Fraser Peak is turning into quite a feat for my second Arctic Sisterhood adventure! Wonder what we’ll see from the top, SPHP?
American Dingoes are great scramblers. SPHP frequently had to use hands for support. A few super steep spots where there was a lot of loose rock and dirt were the worst. The upper portion of the ridge narrowed so much that for the first time it was possible to see a path worn by other climbers.
SPHP proceeded cautiously, slowly. A mistake up here would not be good. Lupe was very patient. Finally the steepest part of the climb was over. The terrain remained very rough, but was rapidly leveling out. Awesome cliffs were close at hand.
Getting close, but that’s not the summit yet. The rough terrain has already leveled out quite a bit. Photo looks SW.
Oddly enough, the scariest part of the whole climb was a short stretch of level ground. Lupe was very high on the NE ridge when she came to a section that narrowed down to as little as 3 or 4 feet wide. Only a 20 or 30 foot long stretch was this narrow, but the steep drops to the abyss on both sides were essentially cliffs. This part of the ridge was flat overall, but covered with tilted rocks. Fortunately, the rocks were small.
No significant obstacle rested upon this rock bridge in the sky, but the fearsome dizzying drops on either side gave SPHP pause. Lupe waited calmly while SPHP tried to summon an ounce or two of courage. Walking across that bridge of rock really wasn’t anything physically difficult at all. Nothing to it actually. It would take only a few seconds. On the other side, the way to the summit was open. This was it, the final test. Several minutes passed.
SPHP patted Lupe and felt better. Let’s do it! Over in a flash. Made it! So pathetically easy, yet psychologically difficult. Apparently the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood suffered no qualms. She had trotted across like it was nothing.
At any rate, it was done. The route to Fraser Peak’s summit was wide open. Fear turned to joy! Lupe was going to make it!
Lupe safely beyond the narrow spot (not pictured). The route to the summit is all cake from here! Photo looks SW.
In only a few more minutes, Lupe was approaching the summit area. The top of Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.) was divided into two minor ridges by yet another gash of moderate size. Lupe and SPHP were closest to the lower NE section of the summit region. Here, a large pole stuck up at the edge of a cliff to the E. It had been visible for a long way from below, but SPHP had mistakenly taken it for an antenna or tower of some sort.
Lupe reaches the summit region. It was divided into two unequal parts by the gash seen at Center and R. The lower, smaller NE portion is ahead on the L. Some sort of large pole stood there at the edge of a cliff. Fraser Peak’s true summit is still farther ahead on the R. Photo looks SW.
Before continuing to the true summit, Lupe headed over to the curious pole to investigate. The pole was at least 2 feet thick and perhaps 20 feet tall. It was all bare wood except for a red painted figure resembling an odd Santa Claus carved into the upper end of the pole. The figure faced NE gazing out beyond the cliff over the Tormented Valley.
Lupe arrives to inspect the odd totem pole on Fraser Peak. Photo looks S.
The significance of this strange totem pole wasn’t at all clear. Lupe had seen similar native artwork in Carcross a few days ago. The red figure almost assuredly was not Santa Claus, but no plaque or anything else was around to explain who or what he represented.
Lupe found nothing to explain the presence of this totem pole or the strange figure carved into it. Photo looks S.Whoever the red figure represents, he has a tremendous view of the Tormented Valley. Photo looks NE.If the strange character at the top of the pole would have been able to turn to face S, he would have had this incredible view of Summit Lake and the South Klondike Highway. White Pass is at far R. Photo looks S.
Having inspected the totem pole without learning much, it was time to go in search of Fraser Peak’s true summit, which had to be very close now. Lupe went down into the gash separating the summit area into two sections. The terrain was still rising as she headed SW up onto the larger, higher ridge.
A look at the gully or gash that separates Fraser Peak’s summit area into two separate ridges. The lower, smaller NE ridge is on the L. From the totem pole, Loop headed SW up onto the bigger, higher ridge on the R in search of the true summit. Photo looks SW.
The higher SW portion of Fraser Peak’s summit area encompassed 2 acres of rocky ground almost entirely devoid of vegetation. The surface was uneven, but not steep. Near the SW end, 4 minor high points were in contention for the title of true summit. The two highest were a couple of large boulders separated by only 5 to 10 feet. The W boulder seemed an inch or two higher than the E one.
Lupe hopped up on the W boulder to claim Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.) as her first peakbagging success since becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain(5,036 ft.) two days ago. Loop had an eye-popping view of Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) (2,086 m) a couple of miles away to the SW.
Success! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands atop the highest boulder on Fraser Peak. Beyond her is gorgeous snow and glacier clad Taiya Peak. Photo looks SW.
As impressive and beautiful as Taiya Peak was, it was only part of a vast snow white panorama of dramatic mountains partially buried beneath massive glaciers extending to the W horizon.
SPHP recognized at least one of those high distant peaks. Lupe had seen it only yesterday from another angle at the far W end of her explorations off the International Falls trail. She was seeing it again here on Fraser Peak from a much higher vantage point. Not until many months later while looking at maps did SPHP begin to suspect that peak might have been the Skagway High Point(8,239 ft.).
Wowee, SPHP! What a fantastic view! I’m sure glad we came to Fraser Peak. This is a spectacular peak for my second ever Arctic Sisterhood expedition. Simply amazing!Another look toward the heart of the most glorious scene. Lupe had seen the high distant peak at far L only yesterday from the International Falls area, too. SPHP wonders if it isn’t the Skagway High Point(8,239)? Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.Lupe gives a one ear salute. The dark peak at the far R may be Mount Van Wagenen(7,041 ft.) on the Alaska/British Columbia border. Photo looks W.
After a stint at the true summit, Lupe moved to the next highest boulder only 5 or 10 feet away. It appeared to be only an inch or two lower than the true summit. From this E boulder Loop could see part of Summit Lake and the jagged snowy mountains beyond it to the SE.
Loopster on the 2nd highest E boulder on Fraser Peak. Part of Summit Lake is in view more than 3,000 feet lower. White Pass is at the far end of the lake on the R. Photo looks SSE.
The third highest rock on Fraser Peak was another large boulder 20 feet NNW of the two highest ones, but was clearly a little lower. Another 30 feet beyond it to the NW was yet another high point on a small ridge. This fourth high point was easily at least a couple of feet lower than the true summit, but was near the W edge of the summit area, making it perhaps the best seat in the house as far as views were concerned.
Lupe and SPHP headed over to the ridge where the fourth high point was located to take a look and have a break. The Carolina Dog rested comfortably on a small cushion of vegetation next to the rocks. Looper eagerly accepted water and Taste of the Wild. Meanwhile, SPHP gazed out upon the splendid scenes in all directions.
The awesome panorama to the W. Taiya Peak is on the L. The valley on the R drains into Bryant Lake (not pictured). Photo looks W.Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) (2,086 m) (L). Photo looks WSW.Possibly the Skagway High Point(8,329 ft.) (far L) and Mount Van Wagenen(7,041 ft.) (far R). Photo looks W.Skagway High Point (far L)? The rounded glacier in the foreground is on the NW slopes of Taiya Peak. Photo looks W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.Loopster fuels up on Taste of the Wild while relaxing next to some of the highest rocks along the W side of Fraser Peak’s summit.A spectacular look at the mountains S of the International Falls trail (which is below the far side of the big ridge in the foreground) where Lupe had been only yesterday. The higher L peak of the two closest sharp peaks at Center is Feather Peak(5,889 ft.). The highest peak on the L is Mount Carmack(6,808 ft.). The high point on the R is Mount Cleveland(6,362 ft.). All of these mountains are across the border in Alaska. Photo looks SW.
It had taken a long time to climb Fraser Peak. Lupe and SPHP lingered at the summit for over an hour. Loop appreciated both the extended break and the views. She was quite content taking it easy, or following SPHP around the summit looking first one direction then another.
The mountains N of Fraser Peak all had far less snow on them than the ones to the S, which were closer to the ocean. The S end of Bennett Lake is seen in the distance. The high peak next to it on the R is likely Paddy Peak(7,238 ft.). Photo looks NNE.The very S end of Summit Lake and White Pass are seen below on the R. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.Looking SSE with help from the telephoto lens.
Precious minutes flew by. Sadly, the moment arrived when the sun said Lupe needed to move on. One last look at that glorious view to the W.
Looking W from Fraser Peak. Taiya Peak on the L.
It was too grand to simply depart. Would Loop like to go back to the true summit again? She would! A delaying tactic, but it still led to a sublime moment.
Conditions had been perfect. This had been a truly glorious day and mountain. And now, for the last time, Lupe stood perched high at the true summit of Fraser Peak. Mighty, frozen treasures of the Canadian and Alaskan wilderness were on display beyond her.
Once again at the true summit of wonderful Fraser Peak.A sublime moment.
Done. Puppy, ho! Onward.
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood leapt down off the summit rock. Better get a move on. It would take SPHP forever and a day to carefully scramble back down that steep upper NE ridge.
Still on top of Fraser Peak, but starting back. A fair amount of the summit area is in view here. The totem pole can be seen at Center to the L of Lupe’s tail. Photo looks NE.
At the lowest end of the summit area at the top of the NE ridge, Lupe paused. Looking back, she could see that odd Santa Claus at the top of the totem pole. SPHP looked down the dizzying NE ridge. Yowser! If it had seemed steep on the way up, it looked incredible staring down upon it from way up here.
Lupe pauses at the top of the steep NE ridge. Part of Bryant Lake is seen below. Photo looks NE.Lupe bid farewell to the odd Santa Claus at the top of the totem pole on Fraser Peak.
Of course, Lupe had hardly started down, when SPHP had to face the narrow rock bridge for a second time. Having done it once already, it now seemed less intimidating. Still a place for caution, but SPHP barely hesitated before quickly striding across. Loop was over it in a flash, too. The long, slow descent of the upper NE ridge began.
Lupe hadn’t paid much attention to Bryant Lake on the way up. It had been out of sight until she was climbing the upper NE ridge, and then she had been facing the wrong direction. On the way down, though, she was facing it. Loop had plenty of time to study the lake while SPHP ever so slowly, bit by bit, carefully worked down the ridge.
Bryant Lake partially in view on the way down the NE ridge. Photo looks NNE.A less obstructed look from farther down the ridge.
An awful lot of time had gone by when Lupe and SPHP finally reached the start of the gashes along the ridgeline. The sun would still be up for a little while longer, but Loop was now in the shadow of the mountain. Even this far down, the middle part of the long ridge seemed much steeper and the gashes much deeper than SPHP remembered.
Lupe was now having a grand time, though. She was back where there was some vegetation. She raced up and down, all around, sniffing here, there, everywhere, among rocks and ridges, tarns and snow banks. She was often far, far ahead of SPHP. Lost from sight, she would suddenly reappear in another direction, still running and sniffing. From time to time, she returned happy and breathless to SPHP.
The terrain looked different going down. SPHP had a hard time recognizing which gash Lupe needed to go down to get off the ridge. The sun had set and light was beginning to fade by the time SPHP guessed and committed to a long gash full of rock and boulder fields.
By now, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was out of gas. Three long days of adventures in a row and the Carolina Dog had shot her wad. Loopster begged SPHP to stop and rest. SPHP complied, but never for more than a minute or two. It was going to be dark soon. Being stuck way up here among steep boulder fields was not in the plan.
Happily, the chosen gash was the correct one. There was that snow bank again. Lupe finally made it off Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. She got soaking wet and cold fording the creek instead of using her Dingo bridge. On the road passing through the forest in near darkness, SPHP sang badly (a special talent) to ward off bears. No bear dared take on that racket. After reaching the gate, Loop took the side trail which SPHP believed was a shortcut back to the highway.
It was! The side trail became a road. Sure enough, it led Lupe back to the highway only 100 meters N of the pullout where the G6 sat all alone waiting for her return. (11:12 PM)
Alpo, water, dinner, lights out. Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.) had been such a fabulous day!
On Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada 8-9-17
Trailhead Notes: The trailhead for Fraser Peak is the second big pullout 1 km (0.6 mile) S of Canadian Customs on the E side of South Klondike Highway No. 2. (The highway from Carcross to Skagway) There are no signs, information or facilities on site.
The most direct 0.6 km (0.4 mile) long road to the gate at the connecting road leading to Fraser Peak is only 100 meters N of this pullout back toward Canadian Customs on the opposite side of the highway. Look carefully and it’s not hard to find. Loop and SPHP missed it, because trees and bushes have grown up sufficiently to hide this road from the highway. Vehicle traffic is blocked at the start by several large boulders.
