Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 97 – Harney Peak & Little Devil’s Tower (9-25-14)

Mush and David were in the Black Hills on vacation.  Before they went back to Indiana, they wanted to hike up Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the highest mountain in South Dakota.  Naturally, Lupe and SPHP were eager to join in on the fun!

It was going to be a hot day, in the 90’s °F out on the western South Dakota prairies.  Even Harney Peak would get pretty warm.  A relatively early start would help make the trek more pleasant.  By 8:00 AM, David was parking the Honda Fit near Sylvan Lake Lodge.  The morning was totally clear, calm, and a still pleasant 60°F.

Harney Peak is located in the Black Elk Wilderness, which features a fairly extensive trail system.  The most popular, and one of the shortest routes up Harney Peak, is Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake.  The trail starts at the SE corner of Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park and climbs pretty steadily for most of the 3.5 mile (one way) trek.

Fairly early in the hike, not too long after passing by a junction with Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, there is a flat granite outcropping near Trail No. 9.  This granite outcropping offers views off to the N, and a first good look at Harney Peak up ahead.

Mush and David stop by the granite outcropping near Trail No. 9. Photo looks N.
Mush and David stop by the granite outcropping near Trail No. 9. Photo looks N.
Harney Peak (Center) is the highest point in the distance. The summit won't be this clearly visible again from the Sylvan Lake route until almost at the top.
Harney Peak (Center) is the highest point in the distance. The summit won’t be this clearly visible again from the Sylvan Lake route until almost at the top.

There were plenty of hikers on the trail on this beautiful, warm early fall day.  A small crowd was already at the lookout tower on Harney Peak by the time Mush, David, Lupe and SPHP arrived at the summit.  A woman named Vera and her friend, Marsha, took a liking to Lupe right away.  Lupe basked in the attention showered on her.  Vera and Marsha were here with their husbands Emil and Stan from the Washington D.C. area.

After checking out the views from the tower’s observation deck, and the tiny platform at the top of the steep narrow stairs inside the tower, it was time to make somewhat of an escape from the crowd by heading out onto the massive granite W shoulder of Harney Peak.  David relieved Lupe of most of her usual photographic duties.

David on the W shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks W.
David on the W shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks W.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the high point on the R on the closest ridge. Photo looks SW.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the high point on the R on the closest ridge. Photo looks SW.
An American Dingo was sighted on the massive granite W shoulder of Harney Peak! It was a very healthy-looking, bright-eyed, and energetic specimen.
An American Dingo was sighted on the massive granite W shoulder of Harney Peak! It was a very healthy-looking, bright-eyed, and energetic specimen.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) (L), Little Devil's Tower (6,960 ft.) (R), and Peak 6920 (R edge) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) (L), Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) (R), and Peak 6920 (R edge) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
Looking E back toward the lookout tower at the summit of Harney Peak.
Looking E back toward the lookout tower at the summit of Harney Peak.

David on Harney Peak, 9-25-14David on Harney Peak, 9-25-14David on Harney Peak, 9-25-14It was warm and breezy up on Harney Peak.  Lupe had fun watching chipmunks, and barking at a helicopter that flew by giving tours.  After a leisurely break for snacks and soaking in the views, it was time to go.  Mush and David intended to just return to Sylvan Lake by the same route along Trail No. 9.  SPHP, however, suggested making a loop past the Cathedral Spires over to Little Devil’s Tower.

Mush and David were a little leery of the idea, especially when SPHP admitted there was a bit of scrambling required to get to the top of Little Devil’s Tower.  SPHP assured them the loop wouldn’t add too much time and distance to the return trip, and that the scrambling was pretty easy.  With just a bit of caution, there was little or no risk.  The views up on Little Devil’s Tower would be worth the effort!

Mush and David agreed to at least try the loop trail, but they weren’t certain about actually scrambling up Little Devil’s Tower.  That would depend on what the scramble really looked like up close and personal.

After leaving Harney Peak, Lupe led the way on the loop by leaving Trail No. 9 to follow a short stretch of Norbeck Trail No. 3.  Norbeck Trail No. 3 linked up with Trail No. 4 to Little Devil’s Tower.  The trail passed near some of the Cathedral Spires along the way.

Mush and David nearing part of the Cathedral Spires.
Mush and David nearing part of the Cathedral Spires.
Photo looks SW.
Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4. Photo looks SE.
Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4. Photo looks SE.

Taking a short (0.33 mile?) spur trail off Trail No. 4 is necessary to actually reach Little Devil’s Tower.  Sometime in the past few years, the spur trail has been re-routed.  The new route is shorter, easier, and more scenic than the old route.  The spur trail now leaves Trail No. 4 at a high point with a view of the Cathedral Spires to the E.  Good signage makes the turn hard to miss.

Most of the spur trail is gently rolling as it passes along the top of a ridge.  Nearing Little Devil’s Tower, the trail dips down briefly, and then climbs steeply up a short badly eroding section featuring a lot of loose rocks.  Above the loose rocks, the trail levels out at a little pass between large granite formations.  A sharp turn to the left reveals a narrow cleft in the granite.  The scrambling begins here.  White or blue diamonds painted on the granite show the way.

David had no problems, but Mush was rather apprehensive during the scramble.  With just a little encouragement, she made it to the top.  Although there are some pretty high cliffs off the edge of Little Devil’s Tower, the summit area features fairly large areas that are quite level.  Mush was able to relax on Little Devil’s Tower, and seemed glad she’d made the trip up.

Shortly after Lupe reached the summit, Lupe’s new friends Vera, Marsha, Stan and Emil appeared on Little Devil’s Tower, too!  Lupe got more loving attention, and had a good time posing with them.

L to R: Emil, Stan, Vera and Marsha from the Washington D.C. area pose with Lupe on top of Little Devil's Tower. Photo looks SE toward the Cathedral Spires.
L to R: Emil, Stan, Vera and Marsha from the Washington D.C. area pose with Lupe on top of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks SE toward the Cathedral Spires.
Mush and Lupe on Little Devil's Tower.
Mush and Lupe on Little Devil’s Tower.
Lupe shows off her Black Hills.
Lupe shows off her Black Hills.

Mush had relaxed so much up on Little Devil’s Tower, that by the time she was on the way down, she was busy pointing out the route and encouraging others who were still on their way up.  The side trip to Little Devil’s Tower was a big success.  Both Mush and David enjoyed it.

Lupe returned to Trail No. 4 using the same spur trail.  From there, Mush, David, Lupe and SPHP all continued on Trail No. 4 toward the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead on Hwy 87/89.  This was an easy downhill hike through a scenic valley all the way.

Mush on Trail No. 4 nearing the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead on Hwy 87/89.

Lupe was disappointed that the little creek near the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead was dried up this time of year.  However, it was only another 0.25 mile or so from the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead to the picnic ground at Sylvan Lake.

Used to Indiana elevations, Mush and David were pretty tired by the time they reached Sylvan Lake again.  It was hot out.  Mush and David went wading at the Sylvan Lake beach.  Carolina Dogs aren’t allowed on the beach, so Lupe and SPHP hung out along a nearby stretch of shoreline.  A bright orange stand of grassy reeds by the shore made for a colorful shot of the lake.

Lupe at Sylvan Lake.
Lupe at Sylvan Lake.

When Mush and David were done wading at the beach, everyone continued N on the Lakeshore Trail along the E side of Sylvan Lake.  Mush went down close to the shore again when the area near the dam came into view.  Here it was OK for Lupe to go wading and get a drink.  Lupe was happy to take her turn cooling her hot paws off.

Mush at Sylvan Lake. The small dam is in the far corner of the lake near the center of this photo. Photo looks W.
Mush at Sylvan Lake. The small dam is in the far corner of the lake near the center of this photo. Photo looks W.
Lupe gets a drink and some relief for her hot, tired paws.
Lupe gets a drink and some relief for her hot, tired paws.

Lupe, Mush, David, and SPHP continued on the Lakeshore Trail around to the area below the dam N of the lake.  From there, Lupe took a very short stretch of the Sunday Gulch trail.  By 4:40 PM, Lupe was back at the Honda Fit.

Everyone agreed that the loop to Little Devil’s Tower on the return trip had been a really nice scenic addition to the hike up Harney Peak.  It really hadn’t added that much distance or difficulty to the day, although it did add some time spent up on Little Devil’s Tower.  Lupe’s Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 97 had been a success!

The Sunday Gulch trail on the way to the Honda Fit from Sylvan Lake.
The Sunday Gulch trail on the way to the Honda Fit from Sylvan Lake.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 – Harney Peak & Little Devils Tower (9-7-15)

Harney Peak at 7,242 feet is the highest mountain in the Black Hills and the entire state of South Dakota.  Located in the Black Elk Wilderness, it is a very popular hiking destination and can be approached from half a dozen different trailheads.  One of the shortest (about 3.5 miles one way) and most popular routes is on Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park.  Lots of people don’t realize how easy it is to add variety to the trip without significantly increasing the distance by making a loop back to Sylvan Lake via trails No. 3 & No. 4 and including an ascent of Little Devil’s Tower along the way like Lupe did on this day.

After 27 days spent on Lupe’s great summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, Lupe and SPHP finally returned home on the afternoon of 9-4-15.  However, the fun wasn’t set to end quite yet.  It was the Friday before Labor Day weekend, which in 2015 came as late as it possibly can with Labor Day falling on September 7th.  Lupe’s uncle Joe, aunt Andrea and cousin Dusty had already arrived at her Grandma’s house the previous evening.  Aunt Mush and uncle David were due to arrive on Sunday the 6th.  So Lupe got to go with SPHP over to Grandma’s house every evening from the 4th through the 7th to hang out with Dusty and all the gang, which she really enjoyed.

The high point of Labor Day weekend, though, was Labor Day itself.  On Labor Day, uncle Joe and cousin Dusty wanted to go with Lupe and SPHP to climb Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the always popular high point of South Dakota.  Of course, Lupe and SPHP were both more than willing to oblige.  So a little before 10:00 AM on Labor Day, SPHP parked the G6 near Sylvan Lake Lodge, and everyone piled out.

A short trek led down to the cool shady woods below Sylvan Lake dam.  From there Lupe and the gang followed the lakeside trail up around the N and then E sides of scenic Sylvan Lake.  Shortly before reaching the swimming beach (where dogs aren’t allowed), Dusty was ready for a swim.  Joe tossed a stick into the lake to give her swim a purpose.  Dusty was very pleased to have the opportunity to retrieve the stick.

Dusty takes a dip while retrieving a stick for Joe.
Dusty takes a dip in Sylvan Lake while retrieving a stick for Joe.

Once Dusty was sufficiently cooled off, Lupe’s whole troop continued on past the swimming beach to Trail No. 9.  The trail soon proved to be very busy with Labor Day hikers, the most crowded SPHP has ever seen it.  There were quite a few dogs of various descriptions enjoying the trail, too, so Lupe and Dusty had ample opportunities to stop and sniff with interesting new acquaintances.

Maybe 0.5 mile from Sylvan Lake, there are some rock ledges where Harney first comes into view.  Lupe’s little pack paused here for a short photo op.

Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe on the rock ledges with Harney Peak in the background. Photo looks E.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.

Trail No. 9 goes all the way to the summit, or at least to the short spur trail that leads to the summit.  Lots of people and dogs were coming and going.  With all the activity, it didn’t seem like very long before Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were at the spiral stairway just before reaching the lookout tower at the top.

The first few times Lupe had been to Harney Peak, she was scared of the metal stairs, because she could look right through the grate down to the rocks below.  Back then, SPHP had to carry the nervous dingo over the stairs.  Lupe still doesn’t entirely trust these stairs, but with a little encouragement, she navigated them on her own.  If they bothered Dusty, she didn’t show it.

Upon reaching the lookout tower, everyone first went out to the viewing platform next to the tower.  SPHP held Lupe up above the rock wall so she could see the views.  A little later on, after SPHP put her down, she suddenly leaped up onto the rock wall so she could see all by herself.  SPHP made her get down so she couldn’t fall off.   Meanwhile, Joe went and climbed the short steep stairs (virtually a ladder) up to the top of the lookout tower.

Joe and Dusty on the viewing platform next to the Harney Peak lookout tower.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.

Lupe doesn’t like the way the metal grating that forms the floor of the viewing platform feels on her paws, so she was soon done at the lookout tower.  Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP headed down to the tower’s basement and out to a path leading over to the big granite outcropping to the W of the summit.  It was less busy and more peaceful over there, although a bit breezy.  It was a good place to pause for a snack while admiring the views.

Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney's summit.
Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney’s summit.

Lupe and Dusty were quite enthusiastic about sharing the Cliff bar SPHP brought out of the pack, and the Kind bars Joe took out of his pack.  Dusty ate some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild too, with evident relish.  She even polished off SPHP’s apple core, although that was a step too far for Lupe.  American Dingoes can be picky at times.  Both dogs helped lighten SPHP’s pack by slurping up plenty of water to wash it all down with.

Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe & Joe
Lupe & Joe
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.

A trip up to Harney Peak on or near Labor Day is becoming a tradition.  On September 2, 2014 (the day after Labor Day), Joe, Dusty, Lupe & SPHP were up here, too.  In 2014, Joe had called his son Matthew from Harney Peak, since it was Matt’s birthday.  This time he called his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin.

Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey in Wisconsin, from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats becoming a Labor Day tradition.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats on Harney Peak becoming a Labor Day tradition.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil's Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.

With snacking, sight-seeing and social obligations completed, it was time to head back down from Harney Peak over the spiral stairway, which Lupe again navigated successfully, back to Trail No. 9.  Quite near the bottom of the stairs were some horses that had brought people up the trail.  Lupe was a good Carolina Dog and did not bark at them, although it was tempting.  Dusty paid no attention to the horses.

The undisturbed horses Lupe didn't bark at.
The undisturbed horses Lupe didn’t bark at.

Maybe 10 minutes or so down from Harney’s summit, there is a rock ledge with a great view to the S of Peak 6735.  Lupe graciously posed for a couple of photos from here.

A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.
A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.

Lupe with Peak 6735 in the background 9-7-15Rather than head straight back down Trail No. 9 all the way to Sylvan Lake, Joe and Dusty were willing to explore the trails over to the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) and possibly climb Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), which neither of them had done before.  This had the advantage of showing them some new territory while making a loop back to Sylvan Lake.  So Lupe and her troop took Trail No. 3 where it met up with Trail No. 9.

Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.

A relatively short trek on Trail No. 3 led to Trail No. 4, which passes to the N of the Cathedral Spires over to a little saddle between the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.  Trail No. 4 goes over this pass heading S where there are some close up views of the Cathedral Spires.

The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.
The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.  Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.

It isn’t far from the saddle to a spur trail that goes perhaps 0.25 mile to Little Devils Tower.  Most of the spur trail is an easy hike along a scenic ridge.  There is one relatively short section of annoyingly steep trail with a lot of loose rock on it, but it soon ends at a little saddle between big granite rocks.

A left turn at the saddle reveals a narrow crevasse in the granite.  This crevasse is marked by a painted blue diamond.  Blue and white diamonds mark the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower.   This involves some scrambling up the granite, but even relatively small children can do it with a bit of help.  The rough granite provides good footing and there isn’t much exposure most of the way.  Naturally Lupe, Joe, Dusty and SPHP all made it to the top of Little Devils Tower.

Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak and St. Elmo Peak.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) (most distant large rock outcropping at center of photo) and St. Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.) (smallish looking peak at left center beyond the dark rock hump).

From Little Devils Tower, it was just a matter of following the spur trail back to Trail No. 4 and then continuing SW on down the valley.  Trail No. 4 led to the Little Devils Tower trailhead on Hwy 89 (Needles Highway – the Cathedral Spires are also called the Needles).  The trail continues though, another 0.5 mile or so, and leads back to the picnic ground on Sylvan Lake.  Once back at Sylvan Lake, Dusty was ready for another swim with just a little encouragement from Joe and another stick.Joe & Dusty at Sylvan Lake 9-7-15

Dusty’s 2nd swim of the day and another stick rescued.

While Joe and Dusty were engaged with sticks and water, Lupe and SPHP were up on the rocks taking a few pics of the lake.

Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
Looking S at a large rock off shore from the swimming beach. Sylvan Lake is a popular place to swim in late summer.

By about 4:30 PM, Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were all back at the G6.  It had been a great day spent together, but was now time to head back to Grandma’s house for a lasagna dinner.  Of course, Lupe had some!  Carolina Dogs like Italian food!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 was Lupe’s 6th time up Harney Peak and 4th time up Little Devils Tower.  It was Joe’s 3rd time and Dusty’s 2nd time up Harney, and their 1st time up Little Devils Tower.  For SPHP, we just don’t know anymore.

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