Solitude Trail – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Bomber Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 1: The Solitude Trail to Gunboat Lake (7-14-18)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming!

7-13-18, morning – No doubt about it. Something was in the works – something big! All the signs were there. SPHP scurried endlessly about. As hours ticked by, Lupe gave up on following SPHP around. Apparently whatever was going on wasn’t happening imminently.

SPHP had a present for Lupe! A bag on the front step said a marmot was inside, a dandy gift certain to be well received by an American Dingo. However, SPHP said there wasn’t actually a marmot in it. Disappointing, to say the least. A new tiny house was inside. Lupe’s old one had lacked a rain cover all these years, and was showing signs of wear and tear.

7-13-18, 3:00 PM – Finally! It was on now! Lupe was in the G6 on her pile of pillows and blankets. SPHP turned onto I-90. The Carolina Dog was bound for Wyoming! A bright, shiny, brand new Dingo Vacation was underway!

7-13-18, 6:30 PM – Less than a month after her last Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains had ended abruptly due to rainy weather, Lupe was back! This time she was in the southern Bighorns at Powder River Pass (9,677 ft.). During a short break from the G6, Loop ventured up to a small rock outcropping S of the pass.

**Peak 10215** from Powder River Pass. Photo looks NE.

The views were gorgeous! Lupe was inspired to go mountain climbing right this very minute! However, she would have to wait. Getting into position to start for Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.) tomorrow was all that was on the agenda this evening.

SPHP drove W on Hwy 16. 2 miles past Meadowlark Lake was a R (W) turn onto USFS Road No. 27 at Deer Haven Lodge. No. 27 promptly turned N. 1.5 miles from Hwy 16, Lupe reached a junction where USFS Road No. 24 curved away to the L (W). A sign indicated it was 15 miles to Battle Park. Another sign said No. 24 was NOT an all-weather road.

After Lupe’s escape from Big Pryor Mountain at the end of her last Dingo Vacation, the sign gave SPHP pause. Even so, the die was cast. Looper was at least going to try to get to the Bucking Mule Trailhead at Battle Park. Fortunately, other approaches to Bomber Mountain existed, if this one didn’t pan out.

No. 24 to Battle Park wasn’t so bad, nowhere near as worrisome as the road to Big Pryor Mountain had been. Plenty of potholes and stones, but there were always ways around them. SPHP drove slowly. Lupe rode with her head out the window having a blast looking for squirrels and deer.

After 14 miles in 45 minutes, Lupe reached the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek. A small trailhead was on the R 0.25 mile farther on. This was the Middle Fork trailhead from which Trail No. 066 provides access to Lily Lake. A sign said registration was required to enter the wilderness. The station was 0.25 mile away at Battle Park.

SPHP parked the G6. Lupe and SPHP walked to Battle Park. 0.25 mile was more like 0.75 mile. When Lupe finally did reach Battle Park, SPHP was amazed. Expecting solitude, the place was packed with pickup trucks, trailers, people, horses and dogs!

Battle Park wasn’t exactly deserted when Lupe arrived. Photo looks NW.

Posted information at the entrance to Battle Park made no mention of any registration station. SPHP finally asked a group of people sitting around a bonfire about it. Oh, the registration station was still farther up the road at the opposite end of Battle Park.

SPHP registered. Lupe visited the Bucking Mule trailhead at the end of the road. Upon returning to the G6, she found a squirrel right away at the Middle Fork trailhead, and watched it until dark.

Although it was only 59°F out, the G6 was warm. Lupe lapped up lots of water, but spent hours panting atop her blankets. The Carolina Dog was tremendously excited, and too wound up to sleep.

*It’s all so exciting! I wonder what’s going to happen tomorrow?*

7-14-18, early – Despite having spent half the night awake, Lupe was up before the sun. She picked up right where she had left off yesterday evening. The forest rang with shrill, happy barking as the American Dingo rediscovered the same poor, bleary-eyed squirrel. Meanwhile, SPHP was getting ready.

At the Middle Fork trailhead 0.75 mile (***NOT*** *0.25 mile!*) from Battle Park.

7-14-18, 7:04 AM – The squirrel was going to have a fine day, after all. SPHP had granted it relief. Lupe and the G6 were now at the Bucking Mule trailhead just past Battle Park at the end of USFS Road No. 24. All was ready. The backpack was annoyingly heavy as backpacks are wont to be. This was it! Lupe and SPHP set off into the forest on Trail No. 164.

While Bomber Mountain was Lupe’s ultimate peakbagging objective, the goal today was simply to get to Gunboat Lake near Florence Pass. Lupe had been to Gunboat Lake once before. A nice grassy ridge overlooking the lake had looked like a great place to set up base camp. So that was the plan. SPHP hoped it wasn’t overly ambitious. The weight of the dang backpack was the leading cause of doubt. It was 5 miles on Trail No. 164 just to get to the Solitude Trail (No. 038), and maybe another 6 miles on the Solitude Trail to get to Gunboat Lake.

Looper wasn’t thinking about any of that as she trotted N through the forest. Why, planning things out and carting all that gear around was what she had SPHP for! Her job was just to sniff, run, play and explore. The American Dingo had no intention of neglecting her duties. She gave them her undivided attention.

Trail No. 164 lost a bit of elevation in the first 0.25 mile to a ford at Battle Creek. The water was low. Crossing the creek was a trivial matter.

At **Battle Creek** 0.25 mile N of Bucking Mule trailhead. Photo looks NE.

Easy is good! Always nice when a potential obstacle turns out not to be one. Beyond the creek Lupe started gaining elevation. No. 164 wound NE through forest, occasionally passing near small glades. About a mile from the trailhead, Lupe reached the S end of Long Park, a vast meadow extending more than 1.5 miles N. Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) was in sight off to the NE.

Lupe reaches the S end of **Long Park**. **Elk Mountain** is on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Trail No. 164 went N through Long Park staying close to the W side near the forest. After only 0.25 mile, Lupe reached the top of a minor rise. The trail ahead curved W down into a drainage. The topo map showed No. 164 would lose 150 feet of elevation before crossing Long Park Creek, ultimately regaining all the loss on the way back E to Long Park.

Maybe there was a bridge where No. 164 crossed the creek, but the creek was divided into two streams up here in Long Park. If both were fordable, Lupe could save the detour W and avoid unnecessary elevation loss. Loop left the trail continuing straight N. Both branches of Long Park Creek proved to be simple rock hops.

Fording **Long Park Creek**. Photo looks ENE.

N of the streams, Lupe picked up Trail No. 164 again. She came to no further obstacles traveling N through Long Park. SPHP tried to keep an eye out for Trail No. 120 going SE to Lily Lake, but saw no sign of it.

**Long Park** from the N. Photo looks S.

Getting close to the N end of Long Park. **Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.)** (L) has come into view. **Elk Mountain** is on the R. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe got closer to the N end of Long Park, No. 164 made a jog to the W before turning N again. Lupe had been gaining elevation slowly. The pace picked up when the trail entered the forest. Several people on horseback were coming the opposite direction as the Carolina Dog reached High Point 9810.

Adventures on horseback near **High Point 9810**! Photo looks W.

Reaching High Point 9810 was significant. Lupe had gained 680 feet of elevation since fording Battle Creek. This was the highest point along Trail No. 164. Lupe had a look around. The terrain was pretty flat, but she found a rock that looked like it might be the summit.

At the top of **High Point 9810**, highest point along Trail No. 164. Photo looks N.

In the middle of a flat area, the highest rock at High Point 9810 didn’t have the best view. The best view was from a boulder near the N edge.

Looking NNE from **High Point 9810**‘s best viewpoint.

High Point 9810 was 3 miles from the trailhead. Still 2 miles to go to reach the junction with the Solitude Trail. Loop and SPHP pressed on.

The Carolina Dog was now about to lose all of the elevation she had gained. During a steady descent through the forest, Trail No. 164 wound generally NE. Occasionally there were clearings off in one direction or another. Looper came to a muddy stream where she took the liberty of helping herself to a drink and cooling off.

Cooling off in a muddy stream. What could be more fun? Photo looks E.

The map showed one interesting highlight more than halfway from High Point 9810 to the junction with the Solitude Trail. That was Grace Lake. Trail No. 164 would go right by it.

Grace Lake was pretty! Lily pads grew near the W shore. Forested rocky slopes came down to the E shore. If SPHP wanted a respite from the heavy backpack, Lupe was perfectly content to lay in the shade with a view of the tranquil lake.

*Oh, SPHP! Isn’t **Grace Lake** pretty!* Photo looks NE.

Taking a break in the shade by **Grace Lake**.

**Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.)** from **Grace Lake**. Photo looks SE.

With a long way to go, the rest break at Grace Lake wasn’t nearly as long as SPHP would have liked. Lupe had to move on. Crossing the outlet stream, Loop was surprised to meet Jefe and Bailey Cleland.

Jefe and Bailey were from Sturgis, South Dakota, so they were from the Black Hills, too! They were on their way back from a 4 day excursion up to Middle Cloud Peak Lake where Bailey had caught a golden trout.

Jefe was 8 years old, part Labrador, Golden Retriever, and Rottweiler. The story of how Jefe and Bailey came to be together was both sad and heart-warming. Bailey had acquired Jefe after a friend had asked him to take care of Jefe for a month as a favor. The friend never returned for Jefe. Bailey hadn’t had the heart to take him to the pound.

That was many years ago. The day Jefe had been abandoned with Bailey turned out to be his luckiest day ever! Here they were, living the dream together enjoying the Bighorn Mountains wilderness. They were as happy as Lupe and SPHP!

Lupe with Bailey and Jefe at the Grace Lake outlet stream.

After a nice chat with Bailey and Jefe, Lupe and SPHP wished them well and carried on. N of Grace Lake, Trail No. 164 headed NE to a minor pass before dropping down into Paint Rock Creek canyon. A mile from Grace Lake, Lupe reached Solitude Trail (No. 038).

Loop was now 5 miles from the Bucking Mule trailhead where she had started out. The Carolina Dog still wasn’t any higher than she had been there, having lost all the elevation she’d gained on the way to High Point 9810. There was nothing much to see here. Without hesitation, Lupe headed E up Paint Rock Creek canyon.

The Solitude Trail immediately began to climb. The pace wasn’t difficult, though the backpack made it seem that way to SPHP. The trail stayed up in the forest along the S side of the valley, and never got close to Paint Rock Creek. The trail soon leveled out, and at one point reached a big clearing from which the creek could be seen. That didn’t last long. Lupe was soon right back in the forest.

After more than 0.5 mile on the Solitude Trail, Lupe reaches a big clearing. Paint Rock Creek is barely visible on the L. Photo looks NE.

A mile on the Solitude Trail brought Lupe to a clearing at the top of a small rise. Filling Paint Rock Creek canyon, beautiful Lake Solitude was dead ahead!

Nearly a mile long, Lake Solitude was the largest lake Lupe would come to on this trip. Upon leaving the clearing W of the lake, the Solitude Trail returned to the forest. The lake was seldom visible again until Lupe was more than halfway along the S side. At the start of a large rock slide, a creek plunged down a steep slope S of the trail.

Lupe climbed up on some of the rocks for a better look.

More than halfway along Lake Solitude, a creek came plunging down to cross the trail from the S. This was at the start of a huge rock slide where Lake Solitude was coming into view again. Photo looks NE.

Lupe up on the rocks by the creek. Photo looks SE.

Quite an impressive waterfall was in sight higher up.

By scrambling only a little way up the rocks next to the trail, Lupe got to see this cool waterfall. Photo looks S.

Immediately beyond the creek, the views of Lake Solitude really opened up. The rock slide had wiped out all the trees long ago. Crossing the rock slide was no trouble. The Solitude Trail was a well constructed path. No rock hopping or trackless boulder fields to transit at all.

*So easy, and the views are fantastic!* Photo looks NE.

Approaching the E end of **Lake Solitude**. Photo looks NE.

Near the E end of the lake, the Solitude Trail went right along the shore barely above lake level. Once Lupe got past the rock slide and huge rock formations, she was ready for another break at a grassy point next to the lake. Sticking around to enjoy Lake Solitude for a while seemed like a great idea to SPHP, too.

Near the E end of Lake Solitude the trail was right down by the shore. Photo looks NE.

Once beyond all the big rocks, Lupe took a break at this grassy point. Photo looks WNW.

20 pleasant minutes shot by. Better get going.

E of Lake Solitude it wasn’t entirely clear where the trail went. Lupe kept toward the R (S) of a large flat region. Several campsites were tucked back against the pines. None were occupied. From the campsites, Loop followed a fairly decent trail E. It quickly led to a ford of a rushing stream.

E of Lake Solitude, Lupe comes to a ford of a rushing creek. This stream was far larger than any of the others she had come to.

Lupe had reached Paint Rock Creek. The water was fast and deep enough to make SPHP leery. The Carolina Dog explored upstream until she came to a place where big rocks made it easier to cross.

Once across Paint Rock Creek, Lupe returned to the trail. After a steep climb, the Carolina Dog arrived at a junction with a better trail. This had to be the Solitude Trail, didn’t it? Somewhere E of the lake, Loop must have gotten off the main track.

The better trail went either gradually downhill to the NE or more steeply uphill to the SW. A brief foray going downhill revealed a footbridge over another big stream by a waterfall.

Looking down toward the Solitude Trail footbridge over the stream from Middle Cloud Peak Lake. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was going the wrong way. The stream the footbridge went over had to be the major tributary of Paint Rock Creek which comes down from Middle Cloud Peak Lake. If Looper continued down to it, the trail would take her back to Lake Solitude. At least there was no question now which way she needed to go. Lupe and SPHP turned around and headed back up.

The longest, steepest climb of the day now began. The Solitude Trail turned E going up the N side of Paint Rock Creek canyon. Lupe was soon way above Paint Rock Creek. SPHP’s heavy pack meant the American Dingo had plenty of chances to relax and enjoy the scenery.

On the way up **Paint Rock Creek canyon**. Photo looks SE.

Looking back toward Lake Solitude. Photo looks WNW.

*Whad’ya think, SPHP? Do these flowers make me look fat? …. Not in the least, Loopster. You’re gorgeous!*

Loopster living the dream along the Solitude Trail.

As long as the trail remained steep, the views of Lake Solitude back to the W became ever more spectacular. Eventually, though, the trail wasn’t as steep. As it began to level out, Paint Rock Creek was catching up. First, the stream came into view not terribly far below the Solitude Trail. A little farther on, Lupe came to another ford.

No doubt there was somewhat less flow way up here. The water was also spread out much more. The stream wasn’t nearly as deep or fast. Lupe had no problem at all crossing Paint Rock Creek this time around.

*That’s quite a view, isn’t it*? Looking back at **Lake Solitude**. Photo looks W.

As the Solitude Trail began to level out, **Paint Rock Creek** could be seen S of the trail. Photo looks ESE.

Loop reaches a 2nd ford of **Paint Rock Creek**. The water was spread out and shallower here making this crossing a much simpler task.

Now on the S side of Paint Rock Creek, Lupe continued E on the Solitude Trail. The American Dingo was gaining elevation again, heading for an area she had been to before. Nearly 2 years ago she had climbed Cloud Peak, the highest mountain in the Bighorn Range. Another 0.5 mile would bring Lupe to views of Cloud Peak and Paint Rock Creek Falls.

That 0.5 mile took longer than it should have. Fatigue was setting in. SPHP was pausing frequently. Lupe was still making progress, though. She reached a high point along the trail. Good news! Both Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.) and Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.) were in view. Getting there!

Reaching this high spot brought good news. Both **Cloud Peak** (L) and **Bomber Mountain** (Center) were now in view off in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

**Paint Rock Creek** and **Cloud Peak** (R). Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

A little farther on, Paint Rock Creek Falls came into view. Lupe could see the grassy ridge slightly above and to the W of the falls where her old tiny house (tent) had been set up as a base camp.

Paint Rock Creek Falls is in sight across the valley beyond Lupe. Her old base camp prior to climbing Cloud Peak in 2016 had been on the slightly higher grassy bench L of the falls. Photo looks N.

**Paint Rock Creek Falls** with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

It was fun to see the area again! The pass leading to Mistymoon Lake wasn’t much farther. The 2 mile long climb from Lake Solitude would be over when the Carolina Dog got to the pass. In the meantime, the view of Lupe’s old base camp for her successful ascent of Cloud Peak served as inspiration.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

*Puppy, ho? I’m waiting on you, SPHP!* Lupe rests by the Solitude Trail on the way to the pass to Mistymoon Lake. The big ridge ahead is the SW end of Bomber Mountain. Photo looks E.

Looking back toward Paint Rock Creek canyon (Center) before leaving the area. Photo looks W.

Nearing the pass to Mistymoon Lake, Lupe found a snowbank to frolic on. The delightful experience seemed to give her a burst of new energy. Even so, SPHP wasn’t tempted to duplicate her chilly romp. Simply getting over the pass would be good enough. Almost there!

Lupe absorbs new energy from a snowbank near the pass to Mistymoon Lake. She had been hot earlier in the day. This romp in the snow took care of that. Photo looks SSE.

Suddenly, Lupe was there. The top of the pass! Ahead was an easy 0.5 mile long downhill section that would get the Carolina Dog all the way to Mistymoon Lake. Pausing to look back, Cloud Peak loomed off to the NE. Much of the route Lupe had taken to the summit was in view.

Would Looper find a similar route up Bomber Mountain tomorrow? Who knew? Hopefully. From Gunboat Lake 2 years ago, it had at least looked feasible. Either way, the American Dingo was going to find out. Lupe and SPHP headed for Mistymoon Lake.

**Cloud Peak** from the Solitude Trail pass N of Mistymoon Lake. Photo looks NE.

The Solitude Trail heads S from the pass N of Mistymoon Lake. The lake is just beyond the hill on the L. Photo looks SW.

Lupe really was re-energized! She loves this kind of open country, and roamed well ahead of SPHP. The day had been sunny and warm. Now that evening was coming on the sky had clouded up, and it was comfortably cool. Going downhill, even SPHP picked up the pace. Soon Lupe was on a slope overlooking Mistymoon Lake.

Lupe reaches **Mistymoon Lake**. The Solitude Trail would take her around the W (R) side of the lake, then all the way back to the E (L) on the far shore. Photo looks S.

The Solitude Trail passes along the W and S sides of Mistymoon Lake. Near the SW shore Lupe reached a junction with the Mistymoon Trail (No. 063) coming up from the West Tensleep trailhead. Lupe could see part of Lake Marion to the S.

Looking SE across **Mistymoon Lake**. The Solitude Trail heads up the draw (R of Center) on the opposite shore on the way to the Fortress Lakes. The big ridge in the distance leads to **Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.)**.

Lupe relaxes near the junction of the Mistymoon and Solitude trails. Part of Lake Marion is in view. Photo looks S.

**Cloud Peak** (R in the distance) from **Mistymoon Lake**. Photo looks NE.

Lupe stuck with the Solitude Trail as it headed E along the S shore of Mistymoon Lake. After a rock hop over the outlet stream, Loop gained 200 feet of elevation on the way up a draw leading to the Fortress Lakes. This was the last significant elevation rise of the day.

S shore of **Mistymoon Lake** after crossing the outlet stream. From here the Solitude Trail heads for the gap on the R which leads to the Fortress Lakes. Photo looks ENE.

Looking back at **Mistymoon Lake** as Lupe departs for the Fortress Lakes. **Elk Mountain** is on the L. Photo looks WNW.

The Fortress Lakes were a welcome sight. Lupe was within 0.5 mile of Gunboat Lake!

Approaching the **Fortress Lakes** near the end of the day. Photo looks E.

On the Solitude Trail by the largest **Fortress Lake**. **Elk Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks W.

At last, Lupe was resting on the grassy ridge N of Gunboat Lake! SPHP wearily assembled her new Marmot tiny house. The old tiny house was shaped better. This one was longer than it needed to be, but not wide enough. It would have to do. At least it had a rain cover. Might need it, too! The sky was overcast, though not threatening at the moment.

Made it! Loop rests on the grassy ridge N of **Gunboat Lake**. Base camp was about to be established here. Photo looks SSW.

Base camp! Lupe by her brand new Marmot tiny house. One of the smaller **Fortress Lakes** is in sight. **Bomber Mountain** in the distance on the L. Photo looks NE.

The tiny house was up! Base camp was established! Lupe had a great view of Gunboat Lake, one of the smaller Fortress Lakes, and the huge ridges leading to the possibly unseen summit of Bomber Mountain. The Solitude Trail could be seen heading NE for Florence Pass. Tomorrow Lupe would be making that trek!

This was a great spot! It had been a long day, though. More than an hour before sunset, Lupe and SPHP crawled into the overly cozy Marmot tiny house to hit the hay. No sunset to miss, anyway. A while back the sun had already sunk into a gloomy, murky haze.

*It’s nice enough, I suppose. A real marmot would have been better, though!* Base camp, **Gunboat Lake**, Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming 7-14-18

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Next Adventure

Bomber Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 2: Gunboat Lake to Florence Pass & the Summit (7-15-18)

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Cloud Peak, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (7-19-16) – Part 1: The Mistymoon Trail to Base Camp

Lupe! Stop that! Be quiet! You’re gonna get us in trouble. People are still asleep! Come on, it’s time to get going anyway! (7:27 AM, 47°F) Reluctantly, Lupe quit barking at the chipmunk, returning to SPHP with a huge smile on her face. SPHP had promised her this was going to be a great day. Lupe was already enthused, and she hadn’t even left the trailhead at West Tensleep Lake yet.

Lupe and SPHP headed N from the trailhead, quickly coming to a “Y” in the trail. SPHP led Looper to the left down toward the E shore of West Tensleep Lake. The day was starting off clear and cool. There was hardly a ripple on the lake.

Lupe on the E shore of West Tensleep Lake. Photo looks N, the direction Lupe would take along the Mistymoon Trail.

Looks like we’re going to have perfect conditions, Loop. We’ll reach base camp in plenty of time. You can dilly-dally barking at squirrels all you want when we get farther from the campground. This evening we might even have time to go take a look at Lake Solitude.

From the look on her face, it all sounded good to Lupe. She trotted N along the Mistymoon Trail (No. 063), sniffing everything and expectantly checking the trees for squirrels. It wasn’t long before she reached the N end of West Tensleep Lake.

Lupe quickly left West Tensleep Lake behind. Photo looks S.

A little N of the lake, Lupe suddenly growled, startling SPHP. Right over there, SPHP! A monstrous squirrel – taller than you! Can I go get it? Come and help me! It will be a squirrel feast! Hurry, hurry! Don’t let it get away!

SPHP looked. There was a monstrous squirrel, and it had heard Lupe growl! It had moved a few steps over toward a small tree where it’s head was hidden from view. Apparently the monstrous squirrel thought the rest of it couldn’t be seen either. It was standing stock still, pretending to be invisible. Lupe wasn’t deceived in the least.

Hang on, Loop! That’s no squirrel – it’s a moose! You’ve seen them a few times before, remember? And no, we can’t go chasing after it.

Moose or monstrous squirrel, it was mighty exciting to Lupe. It was very close, and far from any tree big enough for it to climb. Lupe stood quivering, hoping SPHP would let her go after it. SPHP let her watch it quietly for a couple of minutes, but that was all. Come on, Loopster, we have to let it be.

Are you serious!? You know, SPHP, there’s something really screwed up about your instincts. Sometimes I don’t think you know a darn thing about hunting or being in a pack! If we ever starve to death on one of these mountain adventures, it will be your fault.

Shush! I’m carrying your water and Taste of the Wild. You have nothing to complain about. Let’s carry on.

You’re a slow study, SPHP, a really slow study!

By now, the monstrous squirrel was ambling nonchalantly away, convinced that it really was invisible. Lupe consented to continuing N on the trail.

Looking S back at some of the monstrous squirrel habitat in the West Tensleep Creek valley.

Less than half a mile N of West Tensleep Lake was a ford across West Tensleep Creek. There wasn’t all that much water in the creek, this time of year. Lupe and SPHP had no problem getting across.

Lupe at the ford in West Tensleep Creek. Photo looks WSW.

On the W side of the creek, the Mistymoon Trail angled NNW across a meadow. Lupe followed the trail through the meadow and into the forest on the other side. She arrived at a sign marking the start of the Cloud Peak Wilderness Area.

From here on, the Mistymoon Trail stayed mostly in the forest for several miles. It headed N, roughly paralleling West Tensleep Creek, but well to the W and often considerably above it. Lupe seldom saw the creek, but she frequently heard it. She came to a few tiny trickling streams along the trail, but many more were dried up completely.

Lupe had some luck finding squirrels in the forest, and got to give a good barking to each one. Sadly, these were all quite ordinary squirrels. Lupe never saw another monstrous one or anything approaching it the rest of the day.

Most of the time, Lupe was gaining elevation at an easy to moderate pace. There were even occasional downhill sections. Eventually, though, she came to steeper areas where there were switchbacks.

When Lupe finally arrived at a junction with Trail No. 097 coming in from the SW, SPHP knew it wasn’t much farther to Lake Helen. Within just a few minutes, Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.) came into view for the first time. Cloud Peak was Lupe’s ultimate peakbagging goal on this trek, but she wouldn’t attempt the ascent until tomorrow. Today all she had to do was get to base camp near Paint Rock Creek Falls.

Lupe’s first view of Cloud Peak (on the horizon L of Center) from the Mistymoon Trail. Photo looks NNE.

Once Lupe spotted Cloud Peak, it took her hardly any time at all to reach Lake Helen, the largest of three lakes she would come to along the Mistymoon Trail.

It was time for a break. SPHP took off the boots and socks that had gotten wet fording West Tensleep Creek and laid them out to dry in the sun. Lupe wasn’t too hungry yet, though she did nibble at some Taste of the Wild. It was a gorgeous July morning in the Bighorn Mountains. SPHP dangled feet in Lake Helen while sitting on a boulder. Lupe preferred curling up and dozing in the shade of a little spruce tree. Occasionally, she snapped at flies annoying her.

Lupe reaches the SW shore of Lake Helen. Photo looks NNE toward Cloud Peak.

With the help of the telephoto lens, much of Lupe's eventual route up Cloud Peak is already in view beyond Lake Helen. The route starts below the high ridge on the L, and slopes up to the R above the biggest snow patch seen near Center, then follows the top of the near ridge the rest of the way R to the summit. Photo looks NNE. — With the help of the telephoto lens, much of Lupe’s eventual route up Cloud Peak is already in view beyond Lake Helen. The route starts below the high ridge on the L, and slopes up to the R above the biggest snow patch seen near Center, then follows the top of the near ridge the rest of the way R to the summit. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe had been making very good time along the Mistymoon Trail to Lake Helen, so SPHP took quite a long break there. By the time, SPHP was ready to press on, the weather had changed. The sky was clouding up. Fortunately, it didn’t look threatening. Lupe and SPHP hit the Mistymoon Trail again. It wound around up above the W side of Lake Helen before returning to the shore farther N.

Looking S back at Lake Helen as Lupe makes progress around the W shore on her way N.

The Mistymoon Trail passed through increasingly beautiful territory. Lupe reached two more lakes in rapid succession. Only 0.5 mile N of Lake Helen, she came to Lake Marion. Another 0.5 mile N of Lake Marion brought Lupe to Mistymoon Lake.

Lupe with a scenic view of a pond between Lake Helen and Lake Marion. Photo looks NE.

Lupe nears Lake Marion, the middle and smallest of the 3 lakes in succession. Two parts of Lake Marion are in view from here. Cloud Peak is in view on the L. Photo looks NE.

The S end of Lake Marion. Photo looks E.

The N end of Lake Marion. Photo looks NE.

Lupe reaches Mistymoon Lake near its SW shore. The Mistymoon Trail ended near this point at its junction with the Solitude Trail. The Solitude Trail leading N along the W shore of Mistymoon Lake is seen here. Photo looks NE.

It was still early afternoon when Lupe reached the end of the Mistymoon Trail at its junction with the Solitude Trail (No. 038) near the SW shore of Mistymoon Lake. Lupe only needed to go another mile or so N of Mistymoon Lake to reach her base camp near Paint Rock Creek Falls tonight. She had a ton of time to get there.

SPHP paused to consider an idea. Although the intention had been to press straight on to base camp, SPHP still felt full of energy. No doubt Lupe was in even better shape. Why not take the Solitude Trail E instead of N, just as a side excursion? Lupe would get to see the Fortress Lakes and Gunboat Lake. Sure, it was a bit of a climb, but even the more distant Gunboat Lake was less than 1.5 miles away.

Loopster, do you want to go see Fortress Lakes and Gunboat Lake? We have plenty of time to do that, and still come back and continue on to base camp.

Lupe was in favor! It did seem like a good idea. Sometimes SPHP is so clever! So instead of heading N on the Solitude Trail toward base camp, Lupe followed it E near the S shore of Mistymoon Lake on her way to Fortress Lakes and Gunboat Lake.

Lupe at Mistymoon Lake. Photo looks E along the S shore in the direction Lupe would follow the Solitude Trail to the Fortress Lakes and Gunboat Lake.

The climb on the Solitude Trail up to the largest of the Fortress Lakes was fairly steep, but adorned with lots of beautiful lupines. It didn’t take too long to get up to where the trail leveled out and Lupe had a good view of the lake.

Lupines along the Solitude Trail on the way to Fortress Lakes.

Lupe nears the largest of the Fortress Lakes from the W. The Solitude Trail continues on past the lake along the S (Right) shore. Photo looks E.

Lupe continued E on the Solitude Trail until she was S of the W end of the largest of the Fortress Lakes. Here, SPHP had another brilliant idea. The maps showed another smaller Fortress Lake a short distance up the grassy slope to the S. Why not go take a quick look at it? Lupe really likes going off trail, so this idea met with quick approval, too.

It didn’t take Lupe long to reach the smaller Fortress Lake, which was quite pretty, tucked away in a spot sheltered by small mountains on three sides.

Lupe got up on an interesting big rock near the smaller Fortress Lake S of the largest lake. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe on the same rock, but this photo looks W toward part of the smaller Fortress Lake.

Lupe and SPHP both liked the looks of this smaller Fortress Lake. Photo looks WSW.

The micro-side excursion to the smaller Fortress Lake was a success! Lupe and SPHP both liked the scenic little lake. After enjoying the view, Lupe and SPHP went NE back down to the Solitude Trail. Lupe continued E above the S shore of the largest Fortress Lake.

Lupe SE of the largest Fortress Lake. Photo looks back to the W the way Lupe had come here.

Lupe passed the Fortress Lakes, and started getting close to Gunboat Lake. There were some minor rocky hills at the NE end of Gunboat Lake. Lupe and SPHP climbed up on them to get a better view of Gunboat Lake. SPHP thought Gunboat Lake was really gorgeous!

Lupe reaches the top of a rocky hill NE of Gunboat Lake. Photo looks SW.

Lupe at Gunboat Lake. The small mountain on the R at the far end of the lake is Peak 10860. Photo looks SW.

A beautiful American Dingo near beautiful Gunboat Lake. Photo looks SSW.

The original plan for Lupe’s side excursion from Mistymoon Lake was fulfilled. Lupe had seen the Fortress Lakes and Gunboat Lake. It was time to turn back. However, Lupe was doing great, and SPHP was becoming ever more enthused about this beautiful territory!

SPHP checked the maps. Another mile or so NE along the Solitude Trail would take Lupe to Florence Pass and Florence Lake. Lupe probably would have gone on to Florence Pass, except for one thing. At the far SW end of Gunboat Lake, SPHP saw a small mountain. It was shown on the topo maps too, with an elevation of 10,860 feet. It looked easy to get over there, easy to climb, and was sort of on the way back toward Mistymoon Lake.

Why not have Lupe climb Peak 10,860? Lupe would love the off trail trek! SPHP couldn’t resist. Sorry, Florence Pass, Lupe is off to do a little peakbagging instead!

Peak 10860 beyond Gunboat Lake. Photo looks SW.

It all went well. Lupe raced along ahead of SPHP sniffing and exploring. For SPHP, it was a lovely stroll in a gorgeous setting. The climb was fun and relaxing. The views were marvelously rewarding. Soon Lupe was at the top of Peak 10860.

Lupe partway up Peak 10860. Photo looks back to the NE toward Gunboat Lake and the Florence Pass area toward the L beyond it.

Piece of cake climb! Looking W up toward the summit of Peak 10860.

Lupe near the top of Peak 10860. A pretty unnamed lake is seen below on the L. Farther off in the distance on the R is Lake Helen. Photo looks SW.

Lake Helen from Peak 10860. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe at the very summit of **Peak 10860**!

Umm, SPHP, this Peak 10860 really isn't all that high. Are we going to do this other one, too? Sure thing, Loop. Just spread your wings and fly on up there. Remember to smile! I will stay here and take your picture. Photo looks ESE. — *Umm, SPHP, this Peak 10860 really isn’t all that high. Are we going to do this other one, too?* Sure thing, Loop. Just spread your wings and fly on up there. Remember to smile! I will stay here and take your picture. Photo looks ESE.

Looking NNE down on the largest Fortress Lake from Peak 10860.

It was great up on Peak 10860! SPHP became so enthralled, anything seemed possible. Looking back toward Florence Pass, it looked like there was a good route from that area up Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.). Why, after climbing Cloud Peak tomorrow, maybe Lupe should come back here the next day and climb Bomber Mountain, too! The whole notion was exciting.

Looking NE back toward Bomber Mountain (L of Center) and the Florence Pass area (R of Center). Part of Gunboat Lake is on the lower R.

Well, Loopster, this side excursion has been a grand success, but time is moving on and we better, too. We’d best get started back to Mistymoon Lake, and on over to base camp!

The Carolina Dog was ready to go. SPHP decided to head NW off Peak 10860, in the general direction of Mistymoon Lake. Lupe led the way. Soon both Fortress Lakes were in view below off to the NNE.

Lupe started down Peak 10860 along a route that soon revealed both of the Fortress Lakes down below. SPHP should have headed down that way back to the Solitude Trail. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP now made a terrible decision. It would have been very simple to just let Lupe lead the way back down to the Fortress Lakes and the Solitude Trail. However, in the saddle between Peak 10860 and a lower peak to the NW, SPHP led Lupe around to the WNW instead.

At the time, it looked like there might be a more direct route to Mistymoon Lake going this way, but what initially appeared to be an easy way around to the NW side of the lower peak wasn’t.

The route Lupe ended up taking wasn’t awful, but it was sure a lot harder than the Fortress Lakes route would have been. It was steep, proved to be every bit as long, and there was no trail. The terrain forced Lupe to lose so much elevation, she was nearly back down to Lake Marion’s level before she could turn NW to start climbing back up toward the Mistymoon Trail and Mistymoon Lake again.

Lupe contemplates the silly route SPHP chose. Photo looks SW toward Lake Marion. The terrain forced Lupe almost all the way down to Lake Marion's level before she could turn NW to return to the Mistymoon Trail. She had to regain some of this lost elevation on the way back to Mistymoon Lake. — Lupe contemplates the silly route SPHP chose. Photo looks SW toward Lake Marion. The terrain forced Lupe almost all the way down to Lake Marion’s level before she could turn NW to return to the Mistymoon Trail. She had to regain some of this lost elevation on the way back to Mistymoon Lake.

Lake Marion again with the telephoto lens.

Well, the plucky American Dingo made her way back to Mistymoon Lake, of course, and in much better shape than SPHP. Lupe continued exploring while SPHP trudged N along the Solitude Trail. Beyond the lake, the trail gradually climbed NE toward the pass over to the Paint Rock Creek valley. Cloud Peak loomed above.

Cloud Peak looms in the sunlight above the pass N of Mistymoon Lake over to the Paint Rock Creek valley. The areas in shadow and sunlight look connected in this photo, but they aren't. Photo looks NE. — Cloud Peak looms in the sunlight above the pass N of Mistymoon Lake over to the Paint Rock Creek valley. The areas in shadow and sunlight look connected in this photo, but they aren’t. Photo looks NE.

All that surplus energy and enthusiasm SPHP had earlier was gone. Boy, I’ve done it again haven’t I, Looper? We could have been at base camp hours ago, and all rested up for Cloud Peak tomorrow. Right now, I feel like even a full night’s sleep isn’t going to revive me. I’m running on empty. Hah, Bomber Mountain the day after Cloud Peak! I’m surprised you didn’t laugh out loud up there on Peak 10860, dear Dingo!

The Carolina Dog was too polite to respond. SPHP made it over the pass. Paint Rock Creek valley was beautiful. There was the waterfall, and beyond it the ledge to the NW above the waterfall where Lupe’s base camp would be.

Paint Rock Creek valley. The waterfall isn't in view, but is toward the right edge of the photo near the cluster of stunted trees and bushes. Lupe's base camp would be set up on the grassy ledge just above that area. Photo looks NW. — Paint Rock Creek valley. The waterfall isn’t in view, but is toward the right edge of the photo near the cluster of stunted trees and bushes. Lupe’s base camp would be set up on the grassy ledge just above that area. Photo looks NW.

Lupe on the side trail off the Solitude Trail that leads over to the waterfall on Paint Rock Creek. Photo looks N.

Looking down Paint Rock Creek from near the base of the waterfall. Photo looks SW.

Lupe and SPHP crossed the valley and made it over to Paint Rock Creek Falls. Lupe had a drink of the clear, cold water. Then it was time to make the short, steep climb up to the grassy ledge above the falls.

Up on top, SPHP was surprised to find that there wasn’t another soul around. This was the closest and best place anywhere for a Cloud Peak base camp. Well that’s pretty awesome Loop, we have this glorious place all to ourselves! At least we are well positioned for tomorrow!

SPHP set up Lupe’s “tiny house”. There was still an hour and a half left before sunset, but even Lupe was ready to retire for the night. Your a smart Dingo, Lupe! Even though it would be fun to watch the sun go down, this time I’m following your lead!