Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 88 – Little Devil’s Tower & Harney Peak (5-17-14)

Every year on the weekend before Memorial Day weekend in May, South Dakota holds an open house at all state parks to kick off the summer tourist season.  Admission to the parks is free, although normal campground fees still apply.  SPHP decided Lupe should take advantage of this chance to do some peakbagging of some of the higher peaks in the Custer State Park region without having to pay an entrance fee.

Lupe’s peakbagging efforts started at the Little Devils Tower trailhead along Hwy 87 (Needles Highway) less than a mile SE of Sylvan Lake (10:44 AM, 45°F).  Lupe had four peakbagging goals – Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), Peak 6920, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), and Peak 6735.  Only Little Devils Tower was actually in Custer State Park, but the others were all relatively close by.  SPHP thought they could all be easily approached from this location.

Lupe and SPHP left the trailhead taking Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4.  The trail entered the forest, soon crossed a small creek, and then started a gentle climb NE up a valley.  As the trail gained elevation, it entered more open terrain.  The forest had been virtually clear cut along in here due to heavy damage from pine bark beetles.  Big granite rock formations were scattered along the sides of the valley.

Slowly the trail became steeper, eventually reaching the crest of a ridge about 0.75 mile from the trailhead.  From the ridge, Lupe could see the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) close by to the E.  A well marked spur trail went NNW to the summit of Little Devils Tower.  Lupe and SPHP took the spur trail, which climbed a little bit and then followed a fairly level ridgeline.

Lupe enjoys a great view of a portion of the Cathedral Spires from a high point on the ridge the spur trail follows to Little Devil's Tower. Photo looks E.
Lupe enjoys a great view of a portion of the Cathedral Spires from a high point on the ridge the spur trail follows to Little Devils Tower. Photo looks E.
Looking NE from a high point near the start of the spur trail to Little Devils Tower.
Looking NE from a high point near the start of the spur trail to Little Devils Tower.

After less than 0.25 mile, the spur trail lost a little elevation as it descended into a ravine coming up from the SW.  The bottom of the ravine rose steeply to meet the spur trail, which turned N to climb straight up a badly eroding stretch of loose rocks.  Fortunately, the climb up the loose rocks wasn’t a long one.  It ended at a little pass between big granite rock formations.

From here on, the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower was a scramble on the granite.  At the little pass, the trail turned sharply W (L) going up a narrow cleft in the rock.  Beyond the cleft, things opened up a bit.  Blue and white arrows painted on the granite marked the trail.  The scramble wasn’t hard, and featured only minor exposure.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived up on top of Little Devils Tower, no one else was around.  A steady stream of people and dogs could be heard on the way, though.  Lupe’s solitude wasn’t going to last long.

Lupe arrives at the summit of Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) is seen in the background R of Center. One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view, was that there was no way Lupe was going to be able to climb Peak 6920, the huge near vertical granite formation seen above Lupe's head. Peak 6920 was to have been one of Lupe's peakbagging goals, but unless she charters a helicopter, it ain't gonna happen! Photo looks N.
Lupe arrives at the summit of Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)! Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) is seen in the background R of Center. One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view, was that there was no way Lupe was going to be able to climb Peak 6920, the huge near vertical granite formation seen above Lupe’s head. Peak 6920 was to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, but unless she charters a helicopter, it ain’t gonna happen! Photo looks N.
An intrepid Carolina Dog strikes a dramatic pose atop Little Devils Tower. Harney Peak, the highest mountain of the Black Hills range, and the highest point in South Dakota, looms in the distance. Photo looks N.
An intrepid Carolina Dog strikes a dramatic pose atop Little Devils Tower. Harney Peak, the highest mountain of the Black Hills range, and the highest point in South Dakota, looms in the distance. Photo looks N.

The views were great up on Little Devils Tower!  The summit area was fairly large and divided into a couple of big sections of uneven granite that were fun to explore.  It was no place for unwatched small children, however.  The summit area was nearly surrounded by cliffs.  SPHP kept a close eye on Lupe as she sniffed around exploring.  By moving around the summit a bit, it was possible to get a tremendous open view in any direction one wanted.

One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view to the N toward Harney Peak, was that Lupe was not going to be able to achieve one of her peakbagging objectives.  Peak 6920 could be seen between Little Devils Tower and Harney Peak.  It was a huge granite formation with near vertical sides in every direction.  No way Lupe and SPHP could get up there without a helicopter.

The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks SE.
The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks SE.
Looking S toward Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.).
Looking S toward Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.).
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long high ridge in the background. Photo looks WSW.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long high ridge in the background. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe and SPHP lingered for a while up on top of Little Devils Tower.  A steady parade of people and dogs came and went.  Even small children were making the climb, with a little assistance from parents and siblings.  Although the solitude was broken, the wonderful views made it fun to stick around up on top for a while.  SPHP chatted pleasantly with some of the other hikers.  Lupe sniffed with the dogs, although she sometimes forgot her manners and growled.

A steady stream of people and dogs came and went. The summit area on Little Devils Tower was large enough so they could be mostly avoided, if one wanted to. Photo looks N.
A steady stream of people and dogs came and went. The summit area on Little Devils Tower was large enough so they could be mostly avoided, if one wanted to. Photo looks N.
Another look at the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks SE.
Another look at the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks SE.

Eventually, it was time to move on.  Lupe returned to the main Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 via the spur trail.  She followed it NE past a junction with Cathedral Spires Trail No. 4A, which she did not take.  Trail No. 4 went around the W end of the Cathedral Spires, and then turned E on the N side of them.

Since SPHP had seen from Little Devils Tower that Lupe wasn’t going to be able to climb Peak 6920, her next peakbagging goal was Harney Peak (7,242 ft.).  On the way to Harney, SPHP kept an eye out toward the SE searching for Peak 6735, to see what Lupe’s chances of climbing it might be like.

After skirting the N side of the Cathedral Spires for a little way, Trail No. 4 turned NE and then N.  Trail No. 4 ended where it reached a junction with Norbeck Trail No. 3, which came up from the SE.  Lupe continued N on Norbeck Trail No. 3.  SPHP started seeing views of Peak 6735 off to the SE.

The views weren’t very encouraging.  While Peak 6735 was only a little over a mile away, and looked like it should be climbable for Lupe, the intervening terrain looked very rugged with lots of elevation change and big rock formations.  Even more daunting, the forest looked almost totally dead, ravaged by pine bark beetles.  Getting to Peak 6735 would take a long time.  Lupe was certain to encounter huge amounts of deadfall timber along the way.

Trail No. 4 led to Trail No. 9, a spur of which goes all the way up to the top of Harney Peak.  Near the very end of the climb, a metal stairway spirals up a cleft in the granite.  Lupe did not like the metal stairway, because she could see through it down to the ground below.  SPHP had to carry the nervous Carolina Dog up the stairs.

At the top of Harney Peak, Lupe and SPHP stopped for only a few minutes at the lookout tower’s observation deck.  As the highest point in the Black Hills and the state of South Dakota, Harney Peak is a popular destination.  The lookout tower and observation deck were busy with people enjoying the fabulous 360° views, certainly among the best anywhere in the Black Hills.

To the W of Harney’s summit is a huge granite shoulder of the mountain.  This shoulder is only slightly lower, offers essentially the same terrific views in most directions, and is less crowded.  Lupe and SPHP retreated from the observation deck to the exit from the lookout tower’s basement, and headed over there.  SPHP took in the views, while Lupe engaged in the fascinating sport of chipmunk watching.

Lupe's attention is focused on chipmunks scampering around the W granite shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks E back toward the lookout tower and observation deck at the summit.
Lupe’s attention is focused on chipmunks scampering around the W granite shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks E back toward the lookout tower and observation deck at the summit.

Lupe on Harney Peak, 5-17-14

Lupe and SPHP stayed out on the W shoulder of Harney Peak for half an hour.  Lupe never tired of the chipmunks, but did divert her attention from them for a little while when SPHP brought chocolate oatmeal cookies out of the backpack.

The cookie monster Dingo inquires of SPHP as to the state of the chocolate oatmeal cookie supply.
The cookie monster Dingo inquires of SPHP as to the state of the chocolate oatmeal cookie supply.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Harney Peak (7,241 ft.). Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) summit from the W shoulder of the mountain. Photo looks E.
Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) summit from the W shoulder of the mountain. Photo looks E.

When it was time to press on, Lupe and SPHP returned briefly to the lookout tower and observation deck.  After a few photos from the top, Lupe started down the stone steps to the spiral metal stairway, where SPHP had to carry her again to the bottom of the metal stairs.

Looking SE from the lookout tower. Peak 6735 is in view just L of the narrow rock ridge protruding from Harney.
Looking SE from the lookout tower. Peak 6735 is in view just L of the narrow rock ridge protruding from Harney.
Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and unclimbable (for Lupe and SPHP) Peak 6920 (R) from the top of Harney. Photo looks S.
Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and unclimbable (for Lupe and SPHP) Peak 6920 (R) from the top of Harney. Photo looks SSW.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Phot looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Photo looks S.

On Trail No. 9 going down Harney, Lupe came to a big rock platform extending a little to the SE from the trail.  The platform provided a great view of Peak 6735.  Although Peak 6735 was supposed to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, a good look at all the rugged terrain and deadfall timber Lupe would have to cross to get there made SPHP decide that maybe today wasn’t the day to tackle Peak 6735.

Peak 6735 is seen directly above Lupe's head. Photo looks SE from near Trail No. 9 on the way down Harney Peak.
Peak 6735 is seen directly above Lupe’s head. Photo looks SE from near Trail No. 9 on the way down Harney Peak.
Peak 6735. Photo looks SE.
Peak 6735. Photo looks SE.

Lupe returned to the Little Devils Tower trailhead via the same route she had taken to Harney Peak –  Trails No. 9, No. 3, and then No. 4.  She was back at the G6 at 4:37 PM (59°F).  Although Lupe hadn’t climbed Peak 6920 or Peak 6735, there was still time in the day to climb another high peak in the area.  Lupe went on to climb Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) for a glorious finish to her day in the hills – but that’s another post!

Less than a month later, Lupe did climb Peak 6735 on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 92 on 6-9-14.
Less than a month later, Lupe did climb Peak 6735 on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 92 (6-9-14).

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 208 – Little Devil’s Tower & Black Elk Peak with Australian Adventurer Luke Hall (9-26-17)

Start: Hwy 87/89, 0.25 mile NW of Sylvan Lake Lodge, 9:46 AM, 46°F

Wonder of wonders!  Australian adventurer Luke Hall was actually here – in Lupe’s Black Hills of South Dakota!  He’d arrived yesterday afternoon only a few weeks from the end of a 6 month trip exploring the western United States.

During his recent travels, Luke had scrambled up many notable mountain peaks, including Mt. Whitney (14,498 ft.) in California and Mt. Elbert (14,433 ft.) in Colorado, the two highest mountains in the lower 48 states.  He’d spent a lot of time along the Pacific coast, and visited a great many national parks – Yosemite, Death Valley, Sequoia, King’s Canyon, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Mesa Verde, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Rocky Mountain – the list went on and on.

Surfing, swimming, backpacking, mountain biking, climbing – Luke had been a busy guy in 2017, but that was perfectly normal for him.  In previous years, he’d explored western Canada, 10 different countries in South America, wandered through much of Europe, and toured Morocco and Egypt.  He spent 2 years living and working in London, England, and another 2 years in Banff, Canada.  Maybe it wasn’t so surprising that Luke had finally landed in the remote Black Hills of South Dakota after all?  He did get around!

Fittingly enough, Lupe and SPHP had first met Luke Hall over a year ago on Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) in Alaska.  Now Luke was here to join Lupe on one of her Black Hills, SD expeditions.  He had already dropped by Mt. Rushmore (5,725 ft.) on his way in, so Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), the highest mountain in South Dakota, seemed like a good destination.  For Luke it would be an easy day, but maybe he wouldn’t mind dialing it down a notch after 5+ solid months of more strenuous adventures?

It was a lovely bright, clear day as Lupe, Luke and SPHP set out.  First stop along the way was Sylvan Lake.

Lupe and Luke together again in the Black Hills for the first time since meeting over a year ago on Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) in Alaska. Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota was today’s ultimate destination. Photo looks E.
Only 10 or 15 minutes after setting out, Luke and Lupe reach the NW shore of Sylvan Lake.
The small dam creating Sylvan Lake, which features a short walkway with a railing, is seen beyond Luke. Photo looks N.
Looking NE across the lake.
A few ducks were out on the calm water.

After a look at Sylvan Lake from the NW shore, Lupe, Luke & SPHP followed a trail that goes all the way around the lake back down below the dam.  Lupe led Luke around to the NE & E sides of the lake.

Looking SW from the rock formations along the N shore.
Sylvan Lake is located at the far NW corner of Custer State Park. Though small, the lake nestles among scenic granite formations.  It’s a popular destination for tourists and locals alike with a swimming beach and picnic ground.  Paddle boat rentals, a convenience store and Sylvan Lake Lodge are all nearby. Photo looks W.
Lupe showing her buddy Luke around Sylvan Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Loopster and Luke on a large granite formation that extends out into Sylvan Lake from the E shore. Photo looks SW.
Looking NNW at the N half of Sylvan Lake.

Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake is the most direct and popular route to Black Elk Peak, but Lupe had another trail in mind.  She led Luke past the picnic ground at the SE end of the lake, and took Trail No. 4 to the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead instead.

Taking Trail No. 4 was a longer route to Black Elk Peak, but had the advantage of giving Luke a chance to climb Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) along the way, and get a close look at the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), too.

Luke & Lupe along Trail No. 4 to Little Devil’s Tower.
A 0.25 mile long spur trail off Trail No. 4 leads to the summit of Little Devil’s Tower. Here Lupe is near the spur trail with a view of the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks E.
Luke & Looper on the way to Little Devil’s Tower. Cathedral Spires in the background. Photo looks E.

A 0.25 mile long spur trail leads from Trail No. 4 to the summit of Little Devil’s Tower.  The end of the route involves a quick, easy scramble up the granite.  Even small children can make it with a little supervision and an occasional boost.

Luke & Loop nearing the top of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks N.

Luke, Lupe and SPHP quickly arrived at the summit of Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.).  There were cliffs around, especially to the N, but they were of no concern.  Although a bit rough, the uneven granite summit area is quite roomy.

The 360° views from Little Devil’s Tower are among the best in the Black Hills, with Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) to the NNW and the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) to the SE being the most eye-catching.

Luke and Loopster arrive at the uneven granite summit of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks ESE.
Another view with some of the Cathedral Spires (also known as the Needles) in the background. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe with the Cathedral Spires in the background. This was Lupe’s 5th ascent of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks SE.
Although the day had started out clear and bright, quite a few clouds were around by the time Lupe reached the top of Little Devil’s Tower. A chill breeze was blowing out of the S, too. Photo looks SE.
Looking NNW toward Black Elk Peak. For those with insufficient time to climb Black Elk Peak, the shorter trip on Trail No. 4 up to the top of Little Devil’s Tower can provide similarly striking views of the Black Hills.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long ridge 2.5 miles away with the high point poking up just R of Center. Photo looks WSW.

At first, no one else was around up on Little Devil’s Tower.  It wasn’t long, though, before a couple appeared.  Bryan and Rene Jobo from Franklin, Tennessee joined Lupe, Luke and SPHP at the summit.

Rene and Bryan were on vacation in the Black Hills, and apparently having a good time relaxing and hitting some of the area’s highlights.  Bryan, Rene, Luke and SPHP were soon chatting pleasantly.  Lupe got involved posing for photos.

Australian adventurer Luke Hall poses with Bryan & Rene Jobo from Franklin, TN up on Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks SE.
Despite a cool SW breeze, Lupe wasn’t about to get left out. Here she poses with Bryan & Rene, too.
In addition to posing with an American Dingo up on Little Devil’s Tower while in the Black Hills, Bryan & Rene were looking forward to attending the Custer State Park annual buffalo roundup in a couple more days. Lupe would have loved to go to help herd buffalo around, too. Unfortunately, SPHP never seems to think that a huge buffalo herd will appreciate a noisy Dingo, so Lupe has never gotten to go.

Bryan and Rene stayed chatting with Luke and SPHP for a while, but didn’t have time to accompany Lupe all the way to Black Elk Peak.  They had other adventures in mind to press on toward.  Soon after Bryan and Rene said good-bye; Luke, Lupe and SPHP resumed the trek to Black Elk Peak.

Luke near the Cathedral Spires on the way back to Trail No. 4 to resume the trek to Black Elk Peak. Photo looks E.

Trail No. 4 went N past some of the Cathedral Spires, and eventually linked up with a short section of Trail No. 3, which led in turn to Trail No. 9.  Near the end of a spur trail off Trail No. 9, a metal stairway hidden in a narrow opening in the granite spiraled up to a rock stairway leading to the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.).

Luke reaches the old fire lookout tower at the summit of Black Elk Peak. Photo looks N.
Until August 11, 2016 when the U.S. Board of Geographic Names voted unanimously in favor of the name Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota had been known as Harney Peak. Luke poses by a plaque at the lookout tower which has not been updated yet.  In May, 2015, the South Dakota State Board of Geographic Names had proposed renaming the mountain Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls), but that recommendation was never enacted.  Lupe would have preferred Squirrel Mountain, or at least Chipmunk Mountain, but, oh well!
Looking ENE from the Black Elk Peak summit. The most distant big square block of granite at Center is the back side of Mt. Rushmore.

Upon arrival at South Dakota’s highest point, Luke, Lupe and SPHP spent a few minutes out on the fire lookout tower’s W facing observation deck taking in the views.  The wind had shifted to the NW by now, though, and was even colder than at Little Devil’s Tower.

View to the NNW from the fire lookout tower observation deck on Black Elk Peak.

Even Lupe was soon ready to retreat back into the lookout tower.  The tower wasn’t very large inside, but Luke enjoyed exploring the winding passage down to the basement.  An open doorway led out to a massive granite shoulder of the mountain immediately W of the tower.  Everyone enjoyed a break in the shelter of a few pines growing out of the rock.

After snacks and water, it was time for photos from various points on the granite near the lookout tower.

Luke and Lupe NW of the fire lookout tower. The tower was last staffed in 1967. Made of stone, it has held up remarkably well during the ensuing 50 years, despite the efforts of any huffing and puffing big, bad Dingoes. Photo looks SE.
Luke & Lupe up on rocks N of the tower. Photo looks NE.
Adventure buddies Lupe and Luke
Lupe on Black Elk Peak. This was her 7th visit to the mountain. Her last visit was over 2 years ago on 9-7-15. Back then the mountain was still officially Harney Peak, as it had been since 1896. Photo looks W.
Helicopters giving tours of the Mt. Rushmore area often make a pass around Black Elk Peak. Lupe loves barking at helicopters! She’s spotted one now!
The view to the SE.
Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) are in view beyond Lupe & Luke. Photo looks S.
Black Elk Peak was Luke’s 3rd US State high point after Mt. Whitney in California and Mt. Elbert in Colorado. Photo looks S.

All too soon, it was time to depart.  On the way back to the G6, Lupe, Luke and SPHP followed Trail No. 9 all way to Sylvan Lake.  The sun was sinking, but down out of the wind the evening was pleasant.

Starting down. Sylvan Hill is seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.
On Trail No. 9 before the junction leading to Little Devil’s Tower (R). On the return trip Luke & Lupe stuck with Trail No. 9 all the way, the most direct route back to Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SSW.
Little Devil’s Tower from Trail No. 9. Luke & Loopster had been up there only a few hours ago! Photo looks SW.
A view to the NW from Trail No. 9.
Loop & Luke at the last big viewpoint along Trail No. 9 on the way to Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNE.
Australian adventurer extraordinaire Luke Hall presents the Black Hills of South Dakota!
Looper takes a break on a lovely bench provided by the Highpointers Foundation. This bench is along Trail No. 9 at the first good viewpoint toward Black Elk Peak (formerly Harney Peak) on the way up from Sylvan Lake.

The light was fading fast by the time Lupe reached the G6 again at 6:45 PM (upper 50’s °F).  Climbing mountains with Luke, and getting to show off her Black Hills home territory had been great fun!

The fun wasn’t over yet, though.  There would be pizza and beer with Luke at home.  (What, no beer for the faithful, peakbagging Carolina Dog!?  No fair!)  Even better, Luke was sticking around for a while.  Another adventure was in store tomorrow.

It just doesn’t get any better than that!

Adventurer Luke Hall originally hails from Sydney, Australia. Lupe & SPHP were thrilled that he took the time to come pay a visit to the beautiful Black Hills of western South Dakota!
Adventuring buddies Luke & Lupe on Black Elk Peak, 9-26-17

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Badlands National Park, South Dakota with Australian Adventurer Luke Hall (9-27-17)

Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

Luke Hall’s travel & adventure blog

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