7:38 AM, 53ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, at the French Creek Horse Camp in Custer State Park –
Great to be out in the Black Hills again, SPHP!
It is! Good thing you’re enthusiastic, too. Going to be a long day, Loop.
Terrific! Are we going to be climbing lots of mountains, SPHP?
Nope. Probably none at all. This next section of Centennial Trail No. 89 is 10 miles long. Round trip we’ll be doing 20. That ought to be enough of a romp, even for a Carolina Dog!
Thirsty, Looper?
Not terribly, SPHP. We haven’t done anything yet.
Well, let’s have a look at French Creek, anyway, before setting off.
Down at the stream, Lupe did help herself to a small drink. Even though French Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills, it isn’t all that big. The lovely stream had decent flow today, though.
All set, Loopster? The trail S starts at the opposite end of the horse camp.
Lupe enjoyed the stroll SW through the horse camp. People, horses, dogs, and intriguing scents were here. At the far end, CSP Road No. 4 went over French Creek. A little farther on, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road, continuing SW along a much more primitive route.
Flat at first, the dirt road the trail followed soon began a gradual ascent. Before long, it curved sharply E, starting to climb much more steeply up a side valley. Not a cloud in the sky! SPHP stopped briefly to shed a layer and apply sunscreen.
This seems familiar, SPHP. We’ve been here not too long ago, haven’t we?
That’s right, Loop. We came down this way 14 months ago after climbing Peak 5213 SE of here on Expedition No. 298. You’ll only remember this first part, though. It’s been a very long time since we’ve gone all the way to Highland Creek.
Winding SW, the dirt road gained 300 feet of elevation before eventually flattening out beyond the part Lupe remembered. Splitting off toward the W as a single track here, Centennial Trail No. 89 soon curved NW, topping out near the head of another valley.
Reaching the trail’s high point, Lupe paused to look S. Only May, yet the air was already smoky from forest fires raging more than 1,000 miles away in Alberta! The smoke was bad enough to mar distant views, but wasn’t terrible. Despite the haze, Peak 5080 was still visible 2 miles S. She would be going past it in a little while.
Although we won’t be climbing any mountains today, Looper, we will be going over a series of minor passes. This is the first, and highest, one. The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says we’re at 4,970 feet, 1.5 miles from the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead.
Don’t remember this view at all, SPHP. Must really have been a long time since we were here before.
11 years to the day, Loopster! You weren’t even 1.5 years old yet. Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, one of our most memorable ever! We actually started for Highland Creek from Badger Hole, a 28 mile round trip. Made it, too, but wound up getting lost after dark on the way back, wandering all night lost somewhere E of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.). You cut a paw on something sharp, and I mistook a buffalo for a big rock until we were so close to it, you went nuts. Instead of running away, the buffalo came after you, while I stumbled around on logs cut into sections for firewood, trying to avoid getting charged.
Oh, I remember that, SPHP! Good times! That still has to be our longest Black Hills expedition ever. You never did figure out where we were until we reached Hwy 16A as the sun came up.
Not exactly true, Looper! I knew where we were all along, sort of, within a mile or two. Anyway, all that excitement happened miles N of here. All I remember about what’s S is a prairie dog town somewhere near the end, a pronghorn antelope, and Highland Creek. Other than that, just a grassy hill with a big tree on top that I’d always wished we’d climbed.
If you see that hill again, maybe we can climb it today, SPHP?
Hope so, Loop! Don’t know why, but I always wanted to see what was up there.
Continuing past Pass No. 1, the trail curved S down into the next valley.
A long, gradual slope led back into another forest. Before long, Lupe reached a paved road in a bigger valley. This was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop. After crossing the Wildlife Loop, the trail bottomed out in the ditch, then began a slow ascent as it curved W up another small, shallow valley.
The trail soon began turning S. Climbing much more aggressively near the end, Lupe regained 150 feet of elevation before reaching Pass No. 2. She was now at 4,900 feet, only 0.5 mile from the Wildlife Loop, or 2.5 miles from the French Creek trailhead.
S of Pass No. 2, the trail lost scarcely any elevation at all. Instead, it ran SSE through open forest staying nearly flat as it traversed a gentle slope. After 0.5 mile, the forest gave way to a huge meadow. A lone bison stood warily watching the Carolina Dog 400 feet away up on a hill to the SW.
A line of considerably higher hills where the forest had burned ran NW/SE beyond a valley to the E. Peak 5213 was up there!
Peak 5080 was also in sight again, now directly ahead. A much smaller, grassy hill was even closer off to the SSW. A big Ponderosa pine stood at the top with a collection of smaller ones near it.
That’s the hill I remember, Loop!
The one you always wished we’d climbed, SPHP?
Yes! I’m sure of it!
We can climb it right now then, SPHP!
Let’s wait until we’re on our way back, Loopster, if it’s not too late. More important to make sure we get to Highland Creek first.
Heading SE across the giant meadow, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a gradual descent. Near the next forest, the trail swung SW into it. This seemed a good spot to take a little break in the shade. SPHP took a seat on a log, while Lupe sniffed around, or sat nearby.
Getting warm out, SPHP! I’m thirsty. Nary a drop along the trail ever since we left French Creek.
SPHP shared some water with Lupe, then sat munching honey-roasted peanuts.
How far have we gone now, SPHP?
Hmm. Let me check, Loop. iPhone says 3.5 miles, so we’re a third of the way to Highland Creek, maybe a bit more.
So far, so good, SPHP!
Yeah, this is pretty easy, Loopster. Excellent trail, no super steep terrain. Kind of nice not to have to face an ordeal for once. All we have to worry about is the distance. Since it’s so sunny, let me reapply some sunscreen, then we’ll keep going.
From the break spot, the trail began a somewhat steeper descent. Lupe spotted bright yellow wildflowers on a hillside, and went over to them.
Always remember to take time to sniff the roses, SPHP!
Fairly certain these aren’t roses, Loop, but I agree with the sentiment.
Not roses? No matter, they’ll do! Can’t be too picky in life, either, SPHP.
You’re a wise Dingo, sweet puppy!
Continuing down this next valley, Lupe reached the first damp spots along the trail. Before long she came to a tiny, seasonal creek. The trail turned NE here, ultimately descending to a broad, grassy valley where the Wildlife Loop was in view again, but no actual wildlife.
Upon reaching the broad valley, Centennial Trail No. 89 did not continue across it toward the Wildlife Loop Road. Instead, it turned SE, hugging the edge of the forest while winding along the base of the hills. There was some minor, gentle up and down along in here that didn’t amount to much, until the trail veered S up a steeper drainage.
This drainage was the start of a nearly mile long ascent divided into two parts. After gaining 100 feet of elevation in the forested ravine, Lupe reached the edge of a gently sloping meadow. Two barren hills where the forest had burned were now in sight, with Pass No. 3 between them.
Still slowly gaining elevation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned WSW here, and didn’t top out until Lupe reached a stand of pines at the base of the nearest barren hill. A gradual descent SSE followed, with a couple more barren hills, Peak 4880 and Peak 4840, temporarily directly ahead.
The gradual descent led to a shorter, steeper one, as the trail curved SW into the upper end of another ravine that drained E. From the bottom of this ravine, Lupe completed the final leg of the ascent to Pass No. 3.
10:26 AM – Although marred by smoke, Pass No. 3 offered first views of new territory ahead. A small peak of massive granite formations two miles SW stood out as having a more rugged appearance than the other hills Lupe had been traveling through.
The Peakbagger app says we’re 5.1 miles from the start now, Loopster. Puts us about halfway to Highland Creek. Shall we take a break?
Yes, please! I need another drink, SPHP. Wearing a fur coat, you know.
After sharing water with the Carolina Dog, SPHP munched away again on honey-roasted peanuts, before applying another dose of sunscreen.
Not a bad view, SPHP! How high are we here?
4,775 feet, Loop. Not as high as the first 2 passes. Overall, we’re slowly going downhill as we head S, a trend that will continue all the way to Highland Creek.
Exploring an arm of the pass that jutted out to the SW, CSP Road No. 7 was in view only 0.33 mile away.
Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound S down to the road. Along the way, Lupe caught sight of the first significant wildlife so far today, a couple of pronghorn antelope. Unfortunately, they ran off before SPHP could get a photo. Nevertheless, seeing the pronghorns was exciting, and more excitement was just ahead.
Reaching CSP Road No. 7 at the bottom of the hill, Lupe was happy to see Flynn Creek. The American Dingo ran ahead, anxious to take advantage of this rare opportunity to cool off.
After crossing CSP Road No. 7, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing SSW back up into a pine forest a little way before curving E. Continuing uphill, Pass No. 4 wasn’t much farther, or much higher, along a dirt road that the trail intersected. The elevation was only 4,590 feet here, nearly 200 feet lower than at Pass No. 3.
Beyond Pass No. 4, the dirt road gradually lost elevation as it wound SE. Loss was minimal, though, no more than 100 feet, before Lupe reached a stretch of very flat terrain where the trail went due S.
This flat stretch eventually led to another minor descent SE, after which Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW, making its last significant elevation gain of roughly 225 feet before reaching Pass No. 5.
11:42 AM, Pass No. 5 –
How about another short break, Looper?
If there’s water involved, I’m all for it, SPHP!
Sitting in the shade, the day’s now usual break time routine ensued. Lupe got a bowl of water. SPHP munched away on honey-roasted peanuts, and added another layer of sunscreen.
Pretty sure the prairie dog village is down in the next valley we’re seeing ahead, Loop. If they’re still there, that is.
Sounds exciting, SPHP! Does that mean we’re getting close to Highland Creek? Thought you said that the prairie dogs were near the end.
The Peakbagger app says we’re at 4,710 feet here, and that we’ve gone 7.4 miles so far, or about 3/4 of the way to Highland Creek. So, yeah. We’ve made a lot of progress.
There was a view to the NW, featuring some considerably higher hills in the distance. Lupe had a look at it before lying down in the shade.
The trail had followed a rather rocky road up to Pass No. 5. This same road was grassy as it continued S. SPHP assumed that was the way to go, once underway again, but a man suddenly appeared from out of a stand of young pines immediately to the E. He didn’t wave, nod, or say a thing, but turned N, and kept on going down the same road Lupe had come up.
Hmm. That’s odd! We’re invisible! Does the trail go E from here, Loop?
Maybe. How would I know, SPHP? You’ve got a map. What does it say?
The map confirmed that the trail did jog ENE here. In fact, once Lupe got going again, Pass No. 5’s actual high point was a short distance that way. Beyond it was another barren hill where the forest had burned, plus the biggest rock formation the American Dingo had come to since leaving French Creek.
Scrambling up onto the rocks, Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was in sight through the smokey haze, now 6 or 7 miles back to the NNW.
Beyond the rock formation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned S again. Lupe trotted down an easy slope through an open forest of relatively young pines. As she emerged from the forest, a pancake flat plain was directly ahead. A whole lot of chirping began as the Carolina Dog approached.
The prairie dogs were still here!
There weren’t as many prairie dogs as the last time Lupe had been here 11 years go, but that might have had something to with the time of day. At any rate, quite a few of them whistled at her approach. Centennial Trail No. 89 went straight through the heart of the town. At the S end, a prairie dog marker was on the ground between two tall wooden posts.
Once past the prairie dog town, the trail continued SSE following a dirt road down a long, flat valley. At the far end, the trail dropped more sharply to a low point. After bottoming out, a short, easy climb led to Pass No. 6 at the top of a gentle rise.
The terrain was so gently rolling now, that Pass No. 6 wasn’t much of a pass at all, but Lupe stopped here along the edge of a flat, open forest for a short water and shade break, anyway. SPHP kept up the honey-roasted peanut habit, and had an orange, too. Lupe was now hungry enough to eagerly devour some Taste of the Wild.
I know we haven’t reached Highland Creek yet, but it can’t be too much farther. Any any interest in splitting a chocolate coconut bar, Loop?
You can always count on me when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, SPHP!
The end was near! The prairie dog town had been 7.8 miles from French Creek, and Lupe had already gone 8.9 miles at Pass No. 6. Another mile ought to about do it.
As it turned out, one more gentle rise to what might be considered Pass No. 7 was ahead. Beyond it, the road began a gradual descent. When Lupe saw the top of a grassy ridge ahead, SPHP knew she was getting close to Highland Creek.
At the very end, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved W as it dropped down to the Highland Creek valley. 200 feet beyond the creek stood a tall fence with a gate in it. Wind Cave National Park, Service Road No. 5, and the Highland Creek trailhead were all just beyond the fence.
Of course, before visiting the trailhead, the Carolina Dog insisted upon a careful examination of Highland Creek itself. Meanwhile, SPHP made use of the convenient plank bridge.
1:17 PM, 72ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Highland Creek trailhead in Wind Cave National Park –
Congratulations, Loop! We made it! Only took us 5 hours and 40 minutes.
And how far was it, SPHP? What does the Peakbagger app say?
9.9 miles total since we left the French Creek trailhead, Loopster. Let’s see, that means we averaged 1.85 miles per hour.
A blistering pace for you, SPHP, but then it was mighty easy terrain almost the entire way.
Gotta stop and sniff the roses, you know, Looper, or what’s the point? No one’s here handing out medals for fastest time.
Might have been! They’d be long gone by the time you arrived, SPHP.
Hmm. Well, I suppose. Anyway, how about finding a shady spot to rest a bit before we head N to do it all over again, sweet Dingo of mine?
Right after another session in Highland Creek, SPHP!
Leaving the trailhead, Lupe crossed Park Service Road No. 5, and headed N back through the gate into Custer State Park. After revisiting Highland Creek, she followed Centennial Trail No. 89 over to the nearest hillside, then went most of the way up it to sit in the shade of a big pine.
Relaxing while enjoying the view of the Highland Creek valley for the last time before heading N, suddenly there was movement.
An enormous group of thirsty natives was proceeding down Centennial Trail No. 89 toward Highland Creek! However, as soon as they spotted Lupe, the entire group stopped, then ran back up the hill a little way.
Uncertain what to do in the face of this unexpected threat, 80 bison stood pondering their chances of making it to the creek before being torn to shreds by an American Dingo.
80 bison to 1 Carolina Dog. Most of the herd soon decided that their odds of survival were pretty good. Advancing slowly at first, they then sped on by while Lupe whined and trembled with excitement.
We can take ’em, SPHP!
Yeah, I know, but it’s verboten, Loopster. Just watch. Pretty cool, aren’t they? Not many places you can see this!
The bold buffalo enjoyed their drink from Highland Creek, then went back up the hill to rejoin their still parched friends. As soon as they all vanished into the woods, Lupe hit the trail again.
Sticking to Centennial Trail No. 89, her return was along the exact same route almost the entire way. Seemed a little different going the opposite direction, but it was all quite familiar now. Lupe saw the prairie dogs again, and even spotted 2 pronghorn antelope N of Pass No. 3 that might have been the same ones that she’d seen earlier S of it. A snake was on the trail in this same area. Happily, not a rattler.
4:57 PM, on the vast meadow leading back to Pass No. 2 –
There’s your grassy hill with the big tree, SPHP! Still want to climb it?
Yes, please! Let’s do it, Looper. Still plenty of daylight left.
Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe roamed ahead while SPHP trudged along behind.
A pleasantly cool 10-15 mph NE breeze was blowing up at the top when Lupe arrived. Hwy No. 87 was in sight down in the next valley to the W. A series of forested hills and ridges were beyond it, the otherwise lovely scene still marred by smoke.
The big pine tree, which had stood out as somewhat of a loner on this hill 11 years ago, was now surrounded by a small forest. Really nothing unusual about this place, except that toward the S end Lupe discovered a plaque cemented to a large rock.
What does it say, SPHP?
There’s a short poem by Dan Tyson, and at the end it says “In Memory of the Bentler Family, October 14, 2006.”
Who are the Bentlers, and what happened to them, SPHP?
No idea, Loopster, except that they evidently died, and Dan Tyson knew them. Maybe they had some connection to this place, the Centennial Trail, or Custer State Park?
Happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, SPHP? We could have one in their honor!
Conniving Dingo! Not sure the Bentlers would feel the least bit honored by us devouring a chocolate coconut bar, but on the other paw, no harm in it, either. And yes, I still have one.
The last chocolate coconut bar went the way of the Bentlers. Lupe then polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild, too, and had a big drink of water. More peanuts for SPHP.
11 years to the day since Loopster had first gone by this hill! Now the mystery was finally solved as to what was up here, only to be replaced by the new mystery of who were the Bentlers, and what happened to them?
We’ll probably never know, Loop, but I’m glad we came.
6:48 PM, 68ºF – No getting lost and wandering around all night this time around! The sun was low, but still up, as the Carolina Dog quenched her thirst for the last time today in French Creek. She’d seen more buffalo on the way back, but overall, it had just been a peaceful evening.
Fun day, SPHP! Glad we did this. Centennial Trail No. 89 is awesome!
Absolutely! Always a good time, Looper.
So what’s next on the agenda, SPHP?
Nearly June, Loopster! The grand and glorious Summer of 2023 is almost upon us, and you know what that means.
Dingo Vacations!
That’s right, sweet puppy! Adventure is calling! C’mon. Let’s go home. We’ve got a lot to do to get ready.
“May they stay where the river runs through
The range and the sky buckskin and blue
May they ride to the end
On the wings of the wind
‘Till they’re home and their circle is through”
– Dan Tyson
Links:
Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition
Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map
Next Trail Section N:
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