Wyoming – Page 19 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Big Sandy Opening to Clear Lake (7-18-20)

Days 7-9 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-16-20, 1:40 PM, Hwy 20, Wind River Canyon – Middle of July. The day had started out cool enough back in the Absaroka Range this morning, but was a scorcher out on the Wyoming high desert now. Driving S, SPHP kept an eye on the tantalizing Wind River. Any number of scenic pullouts, but no access.

Finally, a gravel road appeared that did go down to the river. Turning off Hwy 20, SPHP drove partway down it. A pickup truck was parked here, the only other vehicle around.

Come on, Loop! Let’s go check out the river!

If you don’t mind, SPHP, think I’ll stay right here in the AC.

Sorry, not an option, Looper. As soon as I kill the engine, the AC will stop. You’ll roast on a day like this, even if I leave the windows open.

Reluctantly, Lupe leapt out of the G6 and followed SPHP the rest of the way down to the Wind River. Perfect! No rapids or fast water. A huge pool half the width of the river swirled in a big, slow eddy, the current along the near bank actually going upstream. The riverbed wasn’t rocky, and the water didn’t get deep until a little way out from shore.

One problem. Two people were fly fishing.

They each made a few more casts, then announced they were just about to leave, anyway. A few minutes later, they drove off.

Hah! Good thing I brought my lucky Dingo!

Swim if you want to, SPHP. I’ll just lay in the grass.

Suit yourself, Looper, but you really should wade in and cool off a bit first.

The Wind River was wonderful! Refreshingly cool, not cold. Egged on by SPHP, the Carolina Dog did spend a little time wading near the shore before relaxing on the bank. Up on Hwy 20, traffic roared by, but no one stopped. For an hour, SPHP swam, floated, drifted while gazing at the beige cliffs of the scenic canyon. Fabulous!

*I’m not much of a water Dingo, but the **Wind River Canyon** is lovely!*

S of Riverside, the G6 read 96ºF. Entering Lander, SPHP drove straight to the city park at the S end of Third Street. Free overnight camping! Very popular! RV’s and tents everywhere. The Middle Popo Agie River was the lowest SPHP had ever seen it, but Lupe had a grand time. Lots of people, dogs, and squirrels around. So much activity!

As the sun went down, SPHP spread pillows, blankets, and sleeping bags out on the thick green lawn beneath the big cottonwood trees. Someone strummed a guitar and sang. The park didn’t get quiet until late. The American Dingo was shocked when she got to sleep out under the stars.

7-17-20, Lander City Park – Sleep? Hah! Dream on! Looper hadn’t done much of that. Every time SPHP woke up and peered into the darkness, Lupe had been laying on the grass, soft ears perked up listening to the night sounds, or sniffing and roaming among the tents nearby. Now, as SPHP caught up the trip journal, a tuckered-out Dingo spent the morning snoozing peacefully in the deep green grass.

This was supposed to be a positioning day for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) in the Wind River range, but there was plenty of time for that. In fact, when Lupe perked up, she had time to enjoy an early afternoon visit to Sinks Canyon State Park half a dozen miles SW of Lander on Hwy 131.

The last time Lupe had been to The Sinks, the Middle Popo Agie River had such tremendous flow that the river completely filled The Sinks, with substantial overflow to spare. With the river so low now, The Sinks was actually far more impressive. The entire Middle Popo Agie River simply disappeared into a mysterious underground cavern.

The **Middle Popo Agie River** disappears into **The Sinks**.

Conducting a closer inspection, Looper went right on down to the cavern entrance where the Middle Popo Agie River vanished.

**Sinks Canyon** from the mouth of the cavern.

Touring The Sinks didn’t take long. Returning to Lander, SPHP stopped for supplies. By 4:00 PM, Lupe was on her way out of town. Up at the SE end of the Wind River range it turned out that USFS Road No. 300, which went to Louis Lake and beyond, was closed for repairs all the way to Burnt Gulch until August 20th.

Where was Burnt Gulch? SPHP checked the map.

What does it say, SPHP?

As near as I can tell, Looper, it says Atlantic Peak isn’t happening, unless we want a longer hike, which we don’t. No access to the trailhead, even if we go all the way back to Lander and approach it from the other end of the loop.

So what now?

Plan B. East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).

S of the Wind River range, SPHP turned W off Hwy 28 onto the Lander Cutoff. 36 miles to the Big Sandy Openings! It was an exciting drive. Cattle, sheep, antelope stopped and stared in amazement, as a frenzied American Dingo sped past.

Start of the Lander Cutoff after leaving Hwy 28. Photo looks NW.

**Wind River range** from the Lander Cutoff.

After 26 miles on the Lander Cutoff, a 3 way junction appeared. Here, a sign indicated that the Big Sandy campground was another 10 miles on the road going N. When Lupe arrived, the campground and trailhead parking lot were both full. Fortunately, overflow parking was available for the G6 only a little way back.

What remained of a beautiful evening was spent with a great view of Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) beyond the meandering Big Sandy River.

At the junction with the road to the Big Sandy campground. Photo looks NE.

**Laturio Mountain** (Center) from Big Sandy Opening. Trailhead parking visible on the L. Photo looks NW.

7-18-20, 9:10 AM, 68ºF, Big Sandy Opening, Wind River range – Loopster trudged along behind SPHP on the way to the trailhead. The American Dingo wasn’t as rambunctious and energetic as she had been just a little while ago.

While getting the backpack ready, SPHP had caught the crazy Carolina Dog digging frantically at a gopher hole, tearing great chunks of grass and dirt away with her fangs while enthusiastically clawing away at the entrance. Loop had swallowed and inhaled so much dirt that she was coughing and having trouble breathing when SPHP made her stop.

Loop was breathing OK, and wasn’t coughing now, but seemed dejected. Gorgeous day, though, and the trailhead was busy! This was the jump off point for Big Sandy Lake, Jackass Pass, and the enormously popular Cirque of the Towers, which Lupe had been to years ago. As Loopster approached the parking lot, a friendly old man stopped his vehicle to chat. He asked where she was headed, and his eyes lit up when SPHP said East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).

Somewhat surprised because everyone goes to the Cirque of the Towers, the stranger pronounced East Temple Peak a fantastic destination.

What route you taking?

Clear Lake and Deep Lake.

Camp at Deep Lake! Simply incredible! You won’t regret it.

With that advice, the old guy waved as he drove off.

Sounded like he knew what he was talking about, didn’t he, SPHP?

Sure did, Loop. Might have wound up there anyway, but shall we make Deep Lake our official goal for the day?

The American Dingo seemed happy enough with that notion, and was soon setting off on the Meeks Lake trail.

Start of the **Meeks Lake trail** at the Big Sandy trailhead.

The Meeks Lake trail was wide, well-trodden, and easy going. Starting out in forest, Lupe was soon crossing a sunny meadow. Not a cloud in the sky! As the trail went on, the Big Sandy River was often in view off to the R (E).

By the **Big Sandy River**. Photo looks NE.

0.6 mile from the trailhead, Lupe came to an intersection. The Meeks Lake trail veered off to the L, climbing into the trees, while Big Sandy trail No. 99 continued straight following the Big Sandy River.

Approaching the point where the **Meeks Lake** (L) and **Big Sandy** (straight) trails divide. Photo looks NE.

The Big Sandy trail was the most direct route to Big Sandy Lake, which Lupe did need to get to. However, Big Sandy trail No. 99 was certain to be very busy on a Saturday in July. An alternate route existed that would eventually hook back into the Big Sandy trail.

Although perhaps a bit longer, this alternate route went past both V and Diamond Lakes, which Lupe had never seen before. Since it might be quieter, more scenic, and help break up the 6 mile march to Big Sandy Lake, Lupe stuck with the Meeks Lake trail, which was signed here as Continental Divide trail No. 96.

The Meeks Lake trail is part of the Continental Divide trail.

After gaining a little elevation, the Meeks Lake trail flattened out for a while. Looper enjoyed an easy stroll going N through the forest. She came to another rise after which the trail flattened out a second time. Lupe went by Meeks Lake, which wasn’t far from the trail off to the W (L), but didn’t even see it due to the trees.

0.6 mile from the first intersection, the Carolina Dog came to a second one. The Meeks Lake trail again angled off toward the L, but this time Lupe went R on the Diamond Lake trail.

Sign at the second trail junction. Lupe took the **Diamond Lake trail** seen here on the R.

Gradually gaining elevation, the Diamond Lake trail wound NE for 0.5 mile through the forest. As Loop started getting close to V Lake, the trail began going downhill. As soon as V Lake could be glimpsed through the trees, Lupe left the trail and went down to it.

V Lake was fairly large, but shallow. From the SW shore, Lupe had her first view of a number of peaks ahead. Nearly 6 miles off to the NE, Mitchell Peak (12,482 ft.), Dog Tooth Peak (12,488 ft.), and Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.) were all strung out along the same ridge.

Schiestler Peak (11,624 ft.) was somewhat closer and part of a different one. Much closer, a mere 1.5 miles due N of V Lake, Laturio Mountain (11,342 ft.) formed a giant ridge all by itself.

**V Lake**. **Mitchell Peak** (far L), **Dog Tooth Peak** (L) and **Big Sandy Mountain** (Center) along the far ridge. **Schiestler Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Laturio Mountain** from **V Lake**. Photo looks N.

After sharing a piece of fried chicken at V Lake, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Diamond Lake trail, which now headed NE along the W shore. The N end of V Lake proved to be a marshy region.

**Temple Peak (12,972 ft.)** (Center) from **V Lake**. Photo looks ESE.

**N end of V Lake**. **Temple Peak** (L). Photo looks SE.

On the way to Diamond Lake after leaving V Lake behind. **Schiestler Peak** (L) and **Temple Peak** (R) with **A Cheval Peak (11,763 ft.)** between them. Photo looks E.

The mile long trek to Diamond Lake, about a mile NE of V Lake, was flat the entire way. Lupe crossed a large damp meadow before getting there, and several minor gravelly streams near the lake. Although Diamond Lake wasn’t as big as V Lake, it was quite pretty. Most of the shoreline was forested, but the trail did pass through a big meadow N of the lake.

**Diamond Lake**. **Dog Tooth Peak** (far L), **Big Sandy Mountain** (L) and **Schiestler Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

**W end of Diamond Lake**. Photo looks S.

A zen moment in the forest near Diamond Lake.

Leaving **Diamond Lake**. Photo looks SSW.

Less than 0.25 mile past Diamond Lake, the Diamond Lake trail merged with Big Sandy trail No. 99 again. Only 2 miles to Big Sandy Lake now!

The Meeks and Diamond Lake trails had been a great alternate route! V and Diamond Lakes were beautiful, had provided mountain views not seen along the Big Sandy trail, and the terrain had been easy. Couldn’t have been much farther this way, either. Better yet, Lupe had enjoyed complete solitude the entire way on a day when Big Sandy trail No. 99 was overrun.

Signs at the junction of the Diamond Lake and Big Sandy trails.

Big Sandy Lake was the largest lake Lupe would come to today. By the time she got there, it was already mid-afternoon. The heavy pack and new boots made SPHP eager for another break. Although she’d been breathing easily the entire way, the Carolina Dog still seemed somewhat subdued after the gopher hole stunt this morning. Loop was perfectly content to relax for a while near the S shore.

**Dog Tooth Peak** (L) and **Big Sandy Mountain** (Center) from the S shore of **Big Sandy Lake**. Photo looks NE.

Deep Lake was still 3 miles away. Although getting around Big Sandy Lake would be easy, the trail would steepen once Lupe headed up to Clear Lake. Consequently, the rest break was shorter than either Lupe or SPHP would have liked. Nevertheless,

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Leaving the S end of Big Sandy Lake, the trail followed the W shore N for 0.5 mile. Both the solid rock ridge of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.) and dramatic ship prow summit of East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.) came into view along the way.

**Haystack Mountain** (Center) from **Big Sandy Lake**. Photo looks ESE.

On Big Sandy trail No. 99. **Big Sandy Lake** and **Schiestler Peak** in view. Photo looks S.

**Haystack Mountain** (L), top of **East Temple Peak** (Center) and **Temple Peak** (R) from **Big Sandy Lake**. Photo looks SE.

At the N end of Big Sandy Lake, Lupe came to another trail junction. Big Sandy trail No. 99 went N from here up to Jackass Pass and Lonesome Lake, but Lupe now left it, going E on Little Sandy trail No. 98 instead.

On her way around Big Sandy Lake, Lupe forded several streams. Lost Creek and North Creek were both small. Easy rock hops for SPHP. Black Joe Creek, the last stream Lupe came to, was considerably larger than the others. Fallen logs got SPHP across without wet feet. Hiking poles came in handy during this maneuver.

Crossing **North Creek**. **Schiestler Peak** (R.) Photo looks SE.

Little Sandy trail near the N shore of **Big Sandy Lake**. **War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.)** (R). Photo looks NW.

After crossing Black Joe Creek, the trail climbed a little way up a steep slope before dropping almost all the way back down again. Lupe was now leaving Big Sandy Lake behind, heading SE along the NE side of a big marshy meadow. She skipped a L turn onto Trail No. 116 which went to Black Joe Lake, and watched for a junction where Little Sandy trail No. 098 divided. She came to it before reaching the end of the meadow.

The nice new sign at the turn for Clear Lake and Deep Lake.

Glancing back at **Big Sandy Lake** and **War Bonnet Peak** (Center) after starting up the trail to Clear Lake. Photo looks NW.

300 feet of elevation gain up to Clear Lake in a little over 0.5 mile. Little Sandy trail No. 98 gradually steepened as it wound through forest and over bedrock. Lupe and SPHP plodded along. Not a difficult trail at all, but the backpack felt heavier with every step. As the trail finally leveled out, the W end of Clear Lake came into sight along with a gorgeous view of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.).

**Haystack Mountain** from the NW end of **Clear Lake**. Photo looks SE.

SPHP couldn’t wait to shed the backpack.

Oh, Loopster! What do you think? Isn’t Clear Lake fabulous? I shouldn’t be, but I’m all worn out. Would you mind if we camp here tonight? Still another 1.5 miles up to Deep Lake, and I simply don’t feel like doing it.

Fine with me, SPHP, but aren’t you just delaying the inevitable? I thought you’d originally hoped to get way up to Temple Lake. It’ll be that much harder to get up East Temple Peak tomorrow if we stay here, won’t it?

Yeah, I know it, but at the moment, I don’t care. Ready to call it.

Alright then. As you wish! Certainly can’t fault this scenery! Let’s look around for a spot.

The SW end of Clear Lake looked attractive. Lupe and SPHP headed over that way, rock hopping Clear Lake’s outlet stream in the process. Not much soil around here, which explained why the forest was more open. A great deal of exposed bedrock provided rock solid camping spots, which didn’t hold much appeal since SPHP hadn’t brought any padding other than the sleeping bags.

Further exploration revealed tents already set up at a great spot with some soil. Eh, best to move on and let them enjoy their privacy.

**Big Sandy Mountain (12,416 ft.)** from near the W end of Clear Lake. Photo looks NE.

**W end of Clear Lake**. **Schiestler Peak** (R of Center). Lupe explored the far shore while looking for a campsite. Photo looks SW.

Returning to Little Sandy trail No. 98, Lupe and SPHP continued E on the N side of Clear Lake. Along the way, Looper made several forays up into the forest N of the trail looking for campsites. She found some good ones, but they were all occupied.

**Clear Lake** from a little farther E along the N shore. Photo looks SE.

Another look at **Schiestler Peak** (R of Center) from **Clear Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Finally, after 3 or 4 tries, the Carolina Dog did find an unoccupied spot that would do. 50 feet higher up a steepish slope, and a good 200 feet N of the trail, was a small level patch of soft dirt amid a bouldery region featuring mostly dead trees. 15 feet to the E was a rock outcropping sporting an abandoned loose stone campfire ring. From here, Lupe had a partial view of Clear Lake and East Temple Peak beyond it.

7-18-20, 6:37 PM, campsite N of Clear Lake – Good enough! SPHP set up Loopster’s tiny house. As soon as the sleeping bags were spread out, she was eager to get inside. Time to eat and rest up for a big day tomorrow.

The last of the fried chicken disappeared. Satisfied and tired, both Lupe and SPHP welcomed the sandman long before Mother Nature turned out the light.

N of Clear Lake, Wind River range, Wyoming 7-18-20

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

East Temple Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Clear Lake to the Summit (7-19-20)

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Francs Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (7-15-20) – Part 2: HP12064 to the Summit!

Part 2 of Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-15-20, 1:15 PM, 0.25 mile NNE of HP12064 – Heading N, Looper angled toward the E side of the vast, featureless ridge before her. The gradual slope higher was a relief for SPHP after the relentless, steep march up the Meadow Creek valley. Making good time now, without getting totally worn out in the process, or at least not much more worn out than SPHP already was.

So where are the roaming herds of grizzlies chasing butterflies, SPHP? They’re harder to spot up here than I would have thought.

No clue, oh sarcastic Dingo of mine! And it’s moths, not butterflies they’re after. Maybe it isn’t moth season yet?

And when would moth season be? I hardly think grizzlies would be too picky over whether they’re gobbling up moths or butterflies.

Most of the trip reports I’ve seen are from August or early September. Plenty of grizzlies digging up moths here then. In any case, we ought to be fine. If we do come to any grizzlies, we’ll spot them a mile away.

On the vast ridge N of **HP12064**. **HP12260** (R of Center), **HP12436** (R), and **HP12437** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

Didn’t take long to reach HP12260. A couple of minor rock formations were up here, but that was about it. The highest one was right along the E edge of the huge ridge, overlooking the Meadow Creek canyon. The Carolina Dog scrambled up for a look at the route she’d taken up here.

At **HP12260**. **Meadow Creek canyon** (L). **Chief Mountain (12,003 ft.)** (Center beyond Lupe’s head). Photo looks SE.

Far to the S, the Wind River range was now in sight. Loopster also had her best view yet of the many snow-capped peaks off to the W.

**Mount Crosby (12,449 ft.)** (L) and the distant **Wind River range** (Center) from **HP12260**. **HP12064** is the first ridge beyond Loop’s head. Photo looks SSW.

Of course, the most important view was the one of Loopster’s ultimate destination, Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), still more than 2 miles off to the NNW. Much more of the vast ridge leading over to it could now be seen. The gentle slopes and hills of the rocky plain before her contained no visible obstacles. Not even a single grizzly bear, either.

**Francs Peak** (L of Center) from **HP12260**. Photo looks NNW.

Abandoning HP12260, Lupe gradually lost elevation as she continued N on the enormous, rocky plain. Scattered groups of wildflowers added splashes of color to the otherwise drab terrain. Way over near the low point of the saddle leading to Francs Peak, blue and white specks could be seen next to each other. As Loop got closer, they proved to be tents.

Two tents (R) were in the saddle leading to **Francs Peak** (L). Photo looks NNW.

Instead of heading straight for Francs Peak, the American Dingo went due N all the way to the edge of a gigantic deep canyon carved by the Francs Fork of the Greybull River.

Approaching the Francs Fork canyon. Photo looks N.

**Canyon of the Francs Fork of the Greybull River**. Photo looks NE.

Another view of the same canyon. Photo looks N.

Same spot, but now looking toward **Francs Peak** (L). Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at the impressive canyon, Lupe turned W toward the tents. Upon arrival, no one appeared to be around, but when SPHP called out, someone laying in the blue tent answered. He said he was from Montana and his buddy was from Idaho. Yes, they’d come up the Meadow Creek trail, too, and had been hanging out up here for a couple of days now.

The man did not get up. Nor did he say what their plans were, or exactly what they had been doing, but he did confirm that they’d seen a couple of grizzlies. However, he was completely unconcerned. The grizzlies are well-behaved here! All graduates of an elite finishing school. No reason to worry.

Well, there was certainly no reason to worry today. Lupe hadn’t seen hide nor hair of a grizzly so far.

What are you saying, SPHP? That isn’t true! Don’t you remember that tuft of grizzly fur back down by the cabin?

Oh yeah, Loop! You’re right! That was hours ago. Kind of forgot about that. OK, so you did see hair of a grizzly, but you haven’t seen any hide. How’s that? Fair enough?

Yes, much better. Please, try to keep your stories straight from now on.

The guy in the blue tent seemed disinclined to be too chatty. After all, people often come to the mountains to get away from that sort of thing. Not wanting to ruin the fabulous job of social distancing he was doing, Lupe and SPHP pressed on.

Not far from the tents, a long, skinny snowbank nestled at the bottom of the saddle leading to Francs Peak. A stream trickling NE through it was clearly part of the headwaters of the Francs Fork of the Greybull River. Lupe sank deep in the soft snow, but didn’t mind at all on a mid-July day. Refreshing!

Enjoying the skinny snowbank! Photo looks E.

A much larger snowbank was on the E side of the next hill on the way to Francs Peak. After her snowy frolic in the saddle, Lupe headed NW up to it. Below this huge snowbank the ground was soft with moisture. A carpet of light green moss prospered in runoff from the snowfield.

The lower portion of the snowbank was very steep. Staying down in the mossy region, Lupe traveled N along its base. At the far end, she turned NW again, beginning a snow climb up a ravine SW of HP12290.

Looking ESE back at the saddle and tents (R) on the way up to the next big snowbank. The prominent knob on the L is **HP12347**. The hill on the R is **HP12346**.

Heading for the ravine (Center) SW of **HP12290** (R). Photo looks N.

A lucky butterfly. So far it hadn’t attracted any ravenous grizzlies.

The snowfield extended much farther N than evident from below. Lupe climbed steadily as SPHP trudged along behind her. As she passed W of HP12290, Francs Peak was in sight again. Only a mile away now!

**Francs Peak** (L) comes back into view. Photo looks NW.

Loop eventually made it past the upper end of the snowfield. Adopting a WNW course, she headed for the next saddle 0.5 mile N of HP12471. Francs Peak was now only 0.75 mile farther, but still 800 feet higher. Once the Carolina Dog crossed the saddle, she was going to face much steeper terrain the rest of the way, but it all still looked like a simple walk-up from here.

Along the way, SPHP noted a couple of use trails toward the lower E side of the ridge ahead. These trails went steeply up to the ridgeline close to the cliffy edge of the canyon to the E, which was another branch of the Francs Fork canyon.

In the **last big saddle S of Francs Peak**. Lupe aimed for the R (E) end of the ridge ahead. Photo looks N.

Naturally, Lupe and SPHP took advantage of these use trails, choosing the one farthest E. Other than the usual struggle against gravity, there was nothing tricky about it. Once up to the ridgeline, the route angled NW toward some big rock outcroppings, still a steady grind higher.

Staying a little toward the R (E) when she got to the rocks, Lupe climbed a lower, less formidable part of the formation band. Once on top, a little dip led to a small flat region. Beyond it was a narrow opening between more rocks that SPHP promptly dubbed Orange Lichen Pass. Framed by these rugged rock formations, the already spectacular views were even more impressive.

Approaching the rock formations. Photo looks NNW.

**Orange Lichen Pass**. Photo looks NNE.

Looking SSW after going through Orange Lichen Pass. **Wind River range** (L) on the far horizon.

500 feet and 0.5 mile yet to go! From Orange Lichen Pass, most of it was a steep climb on scree slopes coming up Francs Peak’s winding SE ridge. However, Loopster encountered no more large rock formations, and it wasn’t all endlessly up. The ridge had some lumpiness to it, a couple of hills and saddles providing welcome respites along the way.

On a hill along the SE ridge. Photo looks NW.

At last, the true summit came into view. One more little hill and a minor saddle ahead, and Lupe would be on her way up to the summit ridge. Wouldn’t be long then!

Lupe on the use trail. **True summit** (Center) in sight! Photo looks NW.

Just about there! Last saddle and final ascent ahead. Photo looks NW.

Wow! It had been a long trek from the Wood River valley all the way up Meadow Creek canyon, then miles more along the vast barren ridges to get here, but Lupe had made it up onto the S end of the summit ridge. A mere speck of a cairn, which hardly did Francs Peak (13,153 ft.) justice, was perched ahead at the true summit.

Though very tired, Lupe and SPHP marched on. A SW wind swept over the ridge at 15-25 mph, but these last few minutes, surrounded on all sides by the glories of the Absaroka Range with success assured, were full of joy.

Approaching the **true summit of Francs Peak**. Photo looks N.

4:56 PM, 55ºF, 15-25 mph SW wind – Lupe sat by the paltry cairn at the true summit of Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), magnificence all around her. The American Dingo didn’t care for the cool wind. SPHP was layering up in agreement. Nearby, one of the loose rocks bore a survey benchmark that said “FRANCS PK2 1954”.

Getting to Francs Peak seemed like a stupendous accomplishment, in fact, so stupendous that after an initial look around, resting felt like the best possible course of action. Loop had a hard time getting comfortable on the rocks, but finally found a spot to her liking. Facing into the wind, SPHP sat next to her, petting her soft fur.

**Francs Peak true summit**. Photo looks NNW.

So we didn’t get to see even a single grizzly, did we, SPHP? Not exactly thick as flies, despite those trip reports you rely on, are they? Heck, we haven’t even seen a moth! Just that one butterfly.

No, not today. But don’t give up! We still have to go all the way back, you know. Were you actually looking forward to seeing a bear?

Oh, the prospect of seeing packs of grizzlies did have a certain charm to it. Can’t do that just anywhere. Would have been exciting! A real highlight of our Francs Peak tour! Don’t you agree?

Packs of grizzlies? Guess I’m sort of dull by nature. Not sure I need that much excitement. I’m plenty happy seeing all these splendid peaks! And just think, today Carolina Dogs rule Francs Peak instead of grizzlies. How do you like them apples?

Loopster did like the ring of that notion. It was true, too! Today, in fact at this very moment, an American Dingo ruled Francs Peak!

For half an hour, Lupe and SPHP stayed there, facing SW into the wind while contemplating a panorama of inspiring peaks. Lupe had never been in the Absarokas before. SPHP didn’t know the names of any of these fabulous mountains, but far, far away, ever so faint on the WSW horizon, was a readily recognizable mountain in another range. Grand Teton (13,770 ft.), Wyoming’s most famous peak!

**Francs Peak’s SW ridge** (L foreground), **Pyramid Peak (11,750 ft.)** (L beyond it). **Mount Burwell (12,313 ft.)** (R of Center) at the upper end of the long valley on the R. Photo looks SW.

**Grand Teton** (R). Photo looks WSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

There was a lot more to see! Batteries somewhat recharged by the rest break, Lupe and SPHP wandered the summit region, repeatedly pacing back and forth along the ridgeline while taking in the sights.

The Carolina Dog had a commanding view of Francs Peak’s NE ridge, the shorter route up for those who had 4WD, high clearance vehicles.

**Francs Peak’s NE ridge**. **HP12509** (L). Photo looks NE.

Another look from a slightly different angle. Photo looks NE.

From the end of the short W ridge, Loopster could see row upon row of amazing peaks beyond the Greybull River valley.

Exploring **Francs Peak’s short W ridge**. Summit (R). Photo looks E.

Near the **end of the W ridge** overlooking the **Greybull River valley**. Photo looks WNW.

Distant peaks to the W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Back at the summit. **Mount Crosby (12,449 ft.)** (R) with snow patches. Photo looks SSE.

To the N, the scene was a little less dramatic, rumpled valleys and lower peaks nearby, but higher stuff toward the horizon. SPHP wondered if Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) was in view, and spotted a mountain that might have been it, but probably wasn’t. The Beartooth Range in Montana was faintly seen on the very edge of vision.

**Jack Creek drainage** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNW.

**Trout Peak** (Center)? Eh, maybe, but probably not. Just a guess. Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Due E, beyond the enormous Francs Fork of the Greybull River canyon, barren looking Jojo Mountain (12,561 ft.) was in sight. The Wyoming plains could be seen off in the distance.

**Jojo Mountain** (Center). Photo looks E.

Far to the SSE, a prominent peak stood out from all others in that general direction. SPHP thought a topo map would make it easy to figure out what peak that was later on, but was never able to positively determine the true identity of “Mystery Mountain”.

**Mystery Mountain** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Another look. **Mystery Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

Compared to the territory Lupe had seen N of Francs Peak, the valleys to the S were greener, and the mountains had more snow. On the distant horizon, the mighty Wind River range could be made out. Some of the jagged glacier-clad giants along the spine of the range sprang into focus with the help of the camera’s telephoto lens.

View to the S. **Wind River range** faintly on the horizon.

**Wind River range**. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

6:21 PM, Francs Peak – An hour and 25 minutes gone by. Getting late. The sad moment when the inevitable had to happen was here. An hour and 25 minutes after arriving, Lupe once again stood in the wind at the summit of Francs Peak. SPHP left.

The Carolina Dog was now alone, waiting for the signal to come.

The signal came. The race was on. The American Dingo streaked S along the ridgeline, overtaking SPHP in a flash. However, the race was not against SPHP, but time, and it had just begun.

Atta girl, Looper! Oh, it’s a long, long way! We better make some tracks! Gotta get back to the Meadow Creek trail before the light is gone.

Loopster paused at the S end of the summit ridge for a final look before beginning the steep descent in earnest. Then it was down the scree slopes, across the saddles and minor hills along the SE ridge. Every now and then, SPHP requested that she stop briefly for photos at especially scenic points.

At the S end of the summit ridge before heading down. Photo looks S.

On the way down to the vast ridge leading back to the Meadow Creek trail. Photo looks SSE.

Atop a rock formation near Orange Lichen Pass. Photo looks SW.

The last photo came at Orange Lichen Pass, where Mystery Mountain could still be seen looming in the distance. Not that there weren’t more wonderful moments during the return. It was all beautiful, a fabulous evening trek buoyed by Lupe’s success at Francs Peak, and weighed down by ever increasing weariness. The need for speed, to the degree it could be maintained, now took precedence.

**Mystery Mountain** (Center) from **Orange Lichen Pass**. Photo looks SSE.

On the way back, Looper did not pass by the tents again, instead taking a shortcut well SW of them. Nor did she return to the summit of HP12260, although she came within 40 feet elevation-wise as she passed W of it on her journey S.

The sun was down by the time the Carolina Dog reached the Meadow Creek trail again. This time no leaving it! No repeat of this morning’s mistakes. As light faded, Lupe and SPHP sped down the trail. At one point there was a slightly scary snowfield to cross. Once beyond it, the pace picked up again.

Perhaps it was inevitable. As dusk deepened, the trail grew fainter just as rapidly as the fading light. After rounding the end of the big ridge that extended E into the middle of the Meadow Creek basin, SPHP lost the trail completely. Even Loop didn’t seem to know where it went.

Oh, well. Hopefully, no disaster. Lupe had made it down to the region of scattered pines and open meadows. If she just kept going down the canyon, all she had to do was pick up the trail again before it crossed Meadow Creek.

The flashlight came out. The march lower resumed in weak flickering light. Stars were now shining overhead. Everything else was black, black, black. Weariness demanded rest breaks. Alright. 5 minutes each time. Then onward! It was clear the Carolina Dog would have preferred to spend the night.

After a while, Lupe did come upon a trail again. Encouraging! But as she followed it E, on and on deeper into the canyon, SPHP began to fret. Had Loop found the trail too late? Could the creek crossing really be this far? Had it been missed way back up there somewhere? Didn’t really make sense, though. Could there really be 2 trails up here?

For a long way, Meadow Creek could be heard, but not seen, somewhere below off to the R (S). Several times hopes rose as the trail threatened to go down to the stream, but each occurrence proved a false start. Finally, a switchback! This was it. How big was Meadow Creek going to be? The American Dingo had not crossed it on the way to Francs Peak.

Well, not a rock hop, but not too scary, either. Exhaustion was setting in. Hardly pausing, SPHP splashed across, feet and pants legs getting soaked, but only below the knee. If Loopster had any problems with Meadow Creek, she didn’t say so, but she arrived on the S bank wringing wet halfway up her chest.

Now that she was across Meadow Creek, it was certain Lupe would make it back to the G6 tonight. All she had to do was stick with the trail. It all became a blur. Longer, steeper, rockier than SPHP remembered. Rest breaks laying in the dirt, even though it was virtually all downhill. In the black forest, both time and the trail stretched to infinity.

So what if we come to a grizzly here in the forest, SPHP? What’s the plan? Still want me to just growl and stick with you?

No, don’t bother with that now, Looper. The grizzly will already be upon us if we meet one here in the night. New plan! Since I don’t have anything left in the pack for you, just go ahead and eat any grizzlies we come to.

Oh, I am hungry! Fresh bear steak does sound good! Plenty left over for you, too, SPHP.

Thanks, Loop! I can hardly wait. C’mon, let’s keep going.

Down, down! At last, Lupe reached the landslides, got across them, and was on the countless long switchbacks. Almost home free! However, near the bottom, the trail faded away. Criminy! What next? Lost in a wretched tangle of deadfall!

Took a while, but Loop managed to thrash through it all. Suddenly, she was on the road! Yes! Which way? Dark outlines of the mountains against the night sky said R. 5 minutes, and the exhausted American Dingo was at the G6. (7-16-20, 2:01 AM, 44ºF)

7-16-20, 6:54 AM, USFS Road No. 200, Wood River ford 0.33 mile from the Meadow Creek trailhead – Lupe’s Francs Peak adventures might be over, but the G6’s weren’t. Not until it got through 3 fords again, and back to the better road that started at the Brown Mountain campground without being swept away or popping a tire.

A beautiful morning! The Carolina Dog stood on the bank of the shining Wood River at the first and worst of the 3 fords, while SPHP assessed the situation. Maybe stay more to the R on the way through the ford instead of foolishly charging right through it like last time?

First **Wood River ford** on the way out. Photo looks NE.

Yup! Staying R was better. No bogging down. The G6 was a champ! Half an hour later, Lupe was on smooth gravel in the scenic Wood River valley cruising toward Meeteetse, happily barking at cows along the way.

So what now, SPHP? Where we going next?

Oh, we’re going to rest up, take it easy for the next couple of days, then it’s on to the next big thing. How does the Wind River range sound to you?

Lupe was happy with that. The Wind River range is awesome! And as long as the Carolina Dog is on the road to adventure, life just can’t get any better.