Lupe – Page 153 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 251 – Bridal Veil Falls, the Devil’s Bathtub trail, Spearfish Falls & Roughlock Falls (10-17-19)

Should have had a plan B! Yesterday evening a landowner had refused Lupe permission to cross their property this morning to access a mountain that would have been a fun trek. SPHP was welcome, but no pesky Dingoes allowed! Heh. No dice! If the Dingo couldn’t, SPHP wouldn’t.

Hence the sudden need for a Plan B. Plenty of options to choose from in the Black Hills, perhaps too many. None seemed to stand out as the thing to do. Better decide soon, though. The morning was shooting by. Lupe wasn’t going to be happy if SPHP let indecisiveness waste away this beautiful day for her first Black Hills Expedition of the fall season.

Under the circumstances, maybe something quick and easy was called for? Lupe didn’t always have to climb a mountain, did she? How about a scenic drive up Spearfish Canyon? Loopster had never been to the Devil’s Bathtub, a lovely remote swimming hole beneath a waterfall hidden up a side canyon. SPHP had thought about taking her there many times, but it was best visited in the hot summer months when the cool, clear water would be refreshing, not frigid.

The Devil’s Bathtub would still be a beautiful short trek, though, and the Carolina Dog wasn’t much into swimming, anyway. Lupe would have plenty of time to visit the 3 best waterfalls in Spearfish Canyon today, too. Why not? SPHP felt kind of lazy. So be it! Lupe was in for an easy day touring the watery wonders of Spearfish Canyon. She was all for it, desperately eager to get going right this very minute!

Coming up Spearfish Canyon on Hwy 14A, Lupe’s first stop was at Bridal Veil Falls. (11:41 AM, 55ºF) Bridal Veil Falls was conveniently right next to the highway. Maybe a bit too conveniently? SPHP was surprised by the number of people milling about. Lupe had to wait for a turn on the viewing platform.

At **Bridal Veil Falls** just off Hwy 14A in Spearfish Canyon.

Bridal Veil Falls was lovely, but the American Dingo was soon ready for more action than simply hanging around a viewing platform next to the highway provided. Only a couple miles farther up Spearfish Canyon was a turn onto Cleopatra Place, which used to be where to park to get to the Devil’s Bathtub. However, Lupe arrived to find that parking along Cleopatra Place was now prohibited.

No problem! 0.25 mile farther up Spearfish Canyon a new parking area right along Hwy 14A now serves as the Devil’s Bathtub trailhead. The new parking lot was on the L (E) just before the old Homestake Mining Company Hydroelectric Plant No. 2. Since the historic old building was so close by, Lupe went to see it.

Loop by Spearfish Creek near Hydroelectric Plant No. 2.

Homestake Mining Company Hydroelectric Plant No. 2 is just upstream of the new parking lot serving as the Devil’s Bathtub trailhead.

It doesn’t take an American Dingo long to look at an old building, either! Not overly impressed, Lupe returned to the trailhead, then followed a muddy path near Spearfish Creek down to the Cleopatra Place bridge.

*There’s the Cleopatra Place bridge now! It’s not far from the new trailhead at all.*

*SPHP says you used to be able to park right here, but not any more!* Loop about to cross the Cleopatra Place bridge.

**Spearfish Creek**. Photo looks upstream from the Cleopatra Place bridge.

Once over the Cleopatra Place bridge, Lupe followed a broad trail near Squaw Creek, a small stream that joins Spearfish Creek just upstream of the bridge. This was the start of the unmaintained trail that goes to the Devil’s Bathtub. The trail quickly led to a ford of Squaw Creek.

Ordinarily Squaw Creek wouldn’t have much flow this late in the year, but 2019 has been unusually wet in the Black Hills. Squaw Creek was looking surprisingly healthy. With snow still lingering from a recent early snowstorm, SPHP wasn’t eager to get cold, wet feet fording the stream. That might easily have been the end of Looper’s Devil’s Bathtub aspirations right then and there, but glancing upstream from the ford, a footbridge was in sight.

The primitive trail to the Devil’s Bathtub quickly led to this ford of **Squaw Creek**. Fortunately, a footbridge is in sight a little farther upstream.

Beyond the footbridge, a braided trail led through the forest up Squaw Creek canyon. Lupe had a great time sniffing and exploring! However, the canyon wasn’t terribly wide. Squaw Creek meandered from side to side, forcing additional stream crossings at frequent intervals. No more footbridges, either – the first one was the only one.

For SPHP all the stream crossings were rock hops. With the water level as high as it was, they were trickier than expected. Many rocks were wet and slippery. Snow or ice clung to some. SPHP had forgotten the trekking poles back at the G6, and was soon wishing they had been brought along. In summer, fording the little stream would have been simply refreshing and not an issue. Now it was a bigger deal.

Of course, Lupe had no problems crossing Squaw Creek. She bounded over rocks, or splashed through shallow spots as she pleased.

Squaw Creek crossing No. 2. Plenty of big rocks in the stream made this one easy.

Even though it was a warm day for mid-October, in some places a fair amount of snow was on or near the trail.

Logs formed a crude bridge at crossing No. 3. The logs were slick, but still served the purpose.

The 6th crossing of Squaw Creek was more problematic than any of the prior ones. Initially it didn’t appear possible without resorting to simply fording the stream. Still hoping not to get wet feet, SPHP scrambled up a steep, snowy slope following footprints left by others in an attempt to avoid this ford completely.

The path dead-ended well above stream level. Well, phooey! SPHP was forced to retreat. However, during the slippery descent it turned out to be possible to get at least a little farther upstream.

It was enough. The creek was easier to cross here.

Loop close to where she managed to cross Squaw Creek for a 6th time.

Lupe had now reached the base of a dramatic horizontally-layered cliff. She stood on a ledge of bedrock next to Squaw Creek. The overall effect was very cool. What a scenic spot!

Between Squaw Creek and the towering horizontally-layered cliff.

Not much farther to the Devil’s Bathtub now, Looper!

How do you know that, SPHP?

I’ve been there, years before you were even born, sweet Dingo! All we have to do now is follow along the base of this cliff. Somewhere not too far past it we’ll come to the Devil’s Bathtub. Don’t remember exactly how much farther it is. Not too far, though. I’ll know it when I see it. We’ll take a break when we get there.

Sounds great! This place is awesome! Let’s keep going!

Lupe continued upstream following shelves of bedrock along the base of the cliff. Once or twice when Squaw Creek came right up against the cliff, she briefly leapt over to the other side in a single bound. This whole stretch was gorgeous and fun!

Temporarily forced over to the R side of Squaw Creek. Photo looks upstream.

Another look downstream from slightly farther on.

The trek along the base of the cliff wasn’t long. A couple hundred yards, maybe? After rounding a corner, Lupe could see a series of pools in Squaw Creek ahead. The largest pool with a small waterfall plunging into it was hidden beyond a big snow-covered boulder at the upper end. The Devil’s Bathtub!

The waterfall and large pool beyond the boulder.

Or was it?

Above the little waterfall, Squaw Creek spilled from a shallow pool down a channel worn smooth – a natural waterslide. SPHP joined Lupe above the waterfall for a look around. Beyond the waterslide and upper pool Squaw Creek came down a straight, narrow valley strewn with rocks. No more stunning cliffs in sight or big pools of water. No trail evident, and all the tracks in the snow seemed to stop here.

Huh.

Huh, what? Is this it, SPHP? Have we reached the Devil’s Bathtub?

I’m not sure Loop. Maybe.

I thought you said you’d been here before, and would recognize it?

Yeah, I thought I would.

So, what’s the problem?

Well, this Devil’s Bathtub doesn’t look quite right to me – at least not the way I remember it. Everything else seems fine, but the waterfall isn’t as high or steep as I recall. Not that it was all that high to begin with, it wasn’t. The bathtub below the falls seems to be shaped differently, too.

Maybe it has changed over the years?

I suppose, but isn’t that rather unlikely? It’s carved into bedrock! More likely my memory is faulty. Sometimes things get built up in one’s mind over time beyond what they ever really were. I’ve had that happen before. I don’t remember the Devil’s Bathtub being too far past the awesome cliffs. From what we can see, it doesn’t look like there is anything promising nearby upstream from here. Judging from the tracks in the snow, no one else has been venturing any farther than this in the past few days, either. Maybe this really is the Devil’s Bathtub?

So what now? Want to keep going farther, just to be sure? I’m game!

Hah! I knew you would be, Loopster! Makes sense, but I don’t know. If I’m wrong, we won’t find anything no matter how far we go. Then you might not have time to visit Spearfish Falls and Roughlock Falls today. This is a gorgeous spot! Let’s ponder the situation while we take a break.

Lupe was fine with that.

At the upper end of the chute above the waterfall.

Overlooking the Devil’s Bathtub candidate from the break area.

Closeup from the brink of the waterfall.

Voices! No sooner had the break begun than a family of five appeared downstream. Lupe and SPHP relaxed listening to the soothing sound of the water while watching them scramble by up past the falls. They went on past the waterslide, disappearing beyond the upper pool, but were soon back. After a few minutes, SPHP asked the wife if this was really the Devil’s Bathtub, or not? We were going to ask you, came the reply! They’d never been here before, but thought that it was.

A bit later, another group of 7 or 8 people came along. They didn’t go any farther than Lupe had, either. Everyone thought this beautiful spot was the Devil’s Bathtub, but no one was completely certain. A pleasant half hour shot by.

This has been fun, but it’s decision time, Loop. Keep going or return to the G6?

Lupe didn’t say. As usual, the Carolina Dog was ready for anything.

Alrighty then, Loopster. Tell ya what. I’m feeling a bit lazy. Mind if we just go back to the G6 to continue your Spearfish Canyon waterfall tour? This might well be the Devil’s Bathtub. If not, it’s been a very similar experience to the one I dimly remember. Promise I’ll try to research it online after we get home. Should have done that to begin with, but I thought I knew what I was doing. If it turns out this isn’t really it, we’ll come back someday. The old Cleopatra mine is on a steep hillside farther up this canyon. Maybe we can check it out, too, then?

Seems silly to leave without knowing for certain if we made it to the Devil’s Bathtub or not SPHP, but if you promise to bring me back again sometime if we didn’t, that’s fine.

It’s a deal! Onward! Puppy, ho!

The trek back to the G6 went faster than going up Squaw Creek had. SPHP was better at the rock hop crossings, and staying on the most direct route. Lupe explored and sniffed as she had earlier, still enjoying this most natural and remote trail of the day. However, she made it back to the G6 so fast (2:20 PM, 70ºF), that it again raised doubts in SPHP’s mind whether Looper had actually made it to the Devil’s Bathtub.

No time to worry about that now, though! The American Dingo was already on to the next great thing! Spearfish Falls was next up. Five miles farther up Spearfish Canyon, SPHP parked the G6 at the Latchstring Inn Restaurant. (2:30 PM, 69ºF) Spearfish Falls was down in the lower canyon the restaurant overlooked. In fact, Lupe could look down on the falls from an observation deck at the S end of the restaurant grounds.

Out in front of the Latchstring Inn Restaurant at Savoy in Spearfish Canyon.

Looking down from the brink of Spearfish Falls (R).

The view from above was nice, but the falls were better seen from down below. The Spearfish Falls trail used to make a loop down to the falls from either end of the restaurant grounds. That had changed. Now the trail is only accessible from the opposite N end of the Latchstring Inn Restaurant property.

This close up of the posted trail map was taken near the S falls overlook. The trail to the falls starts from N of the restaurant as shown, not at the red “You are Here” star.

At the start of the Spearfish Falls Trail just N of the Latchstring Inn Restaurant.

The Spearfish Falls trail started out as a broad path which switch-backed down to the lower canyon floor. Once it leveled out, the trail meandered a bit before quickly leading to a sturdy footbridge over Spearfish Creek.

A few minutes going down gentle switchbacks brought Lupe to the lower canyon floor.

The excellent footbridge over Spearfish Creek.

Looking up **Spearfish Creek** from the bridge.

Beyond the bridge was a short stroll through a park-like forest. A terrific view of Spearfish Falls was just ahead.

Spearfish Falls was impressive! The beautiful falls had excellent flow, and had to be one of the very tallest in the entire Black Hills. A large viewing deck provided a fantastic look at it.

*Wow, Spearfish Falls is really worth seeing isn’t it? So easy to get to, too!*

*Look up above and you can see the roof of the Latchstring Inn Restaurant. It’s just that close!*

After spending a little time appreciating Spearfish Falls, Lupe headed back along the trail. This time she saw several deer along the way. Soon, though, she was back at the start.

On the way back, Lupe was excited to see several deer just around this bend.

One more waterfall to go! Roughlock Falls was only a mile away up the side canyon of Little Spearfish Creek, the same creek that Spearfish Falls was on.

SPHP could have driven USFS Road No. 222 to the Roughlock Falls picnic ground which was practically right at the falls. However, a scenic trail also went to Roughlock Falls from the Spearfish Canyon Lodge located right across Hwy 14A from the Latchstring Inn Restaurant. More fun to do that!

The Spearfish Canyon Lodge is right across Hwy 14A from the Latchstring Inn Restaurant.

After crossing the highway, Lupe went past the Spearfish Canyon Lodge then through a large parking lot to a smaller one. She picked up the trail here at a short bridge over Little Spearfish Creek. Once over the creek, the Roughlock Falls trail followed it upstream. A trail map showed that Lupe could have accessed the trail from right in front of the Spearfish Canyon Lodge. Oh, well!

The popular trail was sort of icy, but otherwise easy. By now, the sun was getting low. Most of the trail was shady, but S facing canyon walls were still in brilliant sunshine.

The Roughlock Falls trail was a bit icy.

The trail went past this pond created by a small dam on Little Spearfish Creek.

Loop a bit off trail next to **Little Spearfish Creek**.

Little Spearfish Creek canyon. USFS Road No. 222 is on the R. The Roughlock Falls trail on the L.

One measly mile didn’t take long. Soon Lupe was on the boardwalk leading to the lower Roughlock Falls observation deck.

Looking back from the boardwalk leading to the lower falls observation point.

**Roughlock Falls** from the lower observation deck.

After seeing Roughlock Falls from down here, Lupe continued on up to the picnic area above the falls.

Little Spearfish Creek up at the Roughlock Falls picnic area.

*Hey, isn’t this where I gave my famous **Lupeo & Xochiet** performance some years back? … Yes, it is Loop!*

The Roughlock Falls picnic area is one of the prettiest in the Black Hills.

Upon completing her quick tour of the picnic area, Lupe checked out the views from the upper observation decks overlooking Roughlock Falls.

The upper observation decks next to the picnic ground are as close to Roughlock Falls as it’s possible to get these days. Wading up Little Spearfish Creek right into the falls is no longer permitted.

Looking down on the lower cascade. The lower observation deck is in sight, too.

*Hard to say which I like better, Roughlock Falls or Spearfish Falls. They are both wonderful!*

Lupe had about seen what there was to see at Roughlock Falls. Time to head back. The American Dingo returned to the lower observation deck for a final look before departing.

Final look at Roughlock Falls from the lower observation deck.

All that remained to complete the day was the pleasant, easy trek back to the G6. Lupe enjoyed every minute of it.

*Well, that’s about it for Expedition No. 251! No mountains climbed, but hope you enjoyed this watery tour of Spearfish Canyon. I sure did!*

10-17-19, 5:13 PM – A happy Carolina Dog arrived at the G6 ready to go home. Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 251 had been a complete success! Or had it?

10 days later, SPHP searched online for images of the Devil’s Bathtub. Plenty of photos of the spot Lupe had reached appeared. Then, Bingo! SPHP recognized it in an instant. The Devil’s Bathtub! There it was, just as SPHP remembered it. The American Dingo hadn’t gone far enough on Expedition No. 251 to reach the true Devil’s Bathtub after all.

How much farther was it? Only 10 minutes according to one account. So Lupe will be going back to the Devil’s Bathtub trail again someday. After all, SPHP promised. But that’s another expedition and adventure!

Devil’s Bathtub trail, Black Hills of South Dakota, 10-17-19

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North Pumpkin Butte, the Campbell County, Wyoming High Point (6-26-19)

Day 1 of Lupe’s 1st 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming!

June! Green grass, blue skies, white clouds, warm soft breezes, and long, long days. Yet Lupe was bored. Summer was here, but nothing had changed. No Black Hills expeditions, no Dingo Vacations, lots of short trips out to Grandma’s house where strange things were happening, but otherwise no adventures at all. SPHP had always maintained that summer started June 1st, but even the summer solstice came and went as if it meant nothing at all!

Was Lupe’s life of adventure over? No more mountains? A future spent staring endlessly out the living room window while precious days made for glory slipped away forever? So it seemed. Day after disappointing day, the hope in the Carolina Dog’s eyes for something better could be seen ebbing away. Despite SPHP’s assurances, Lupe was losing faith.

June was already near its end when at last there was a change. Hours before dawn on the 26th, SPHP was up and about. Preparations! Gear and supplies were getting carted out to the G6. The American Dingo danced underfoot, full of excitement. She knew the signs!

So, where are we going SPHP?

Not too far, Looper. The Bighorn Mountains in N central Wyoming.

Oh, I love the Bighorns!

Yeah, should be a fun time. We won’t get all the way there today, though.

Why not? Aren’t we leaving soon? It only takes a few hours to get to the Bighorns from here.

Yup, we’re leaving as soon as I can get us ready. However, yesterday I talked to John Christensen who owns the ranch that North Pumpkin Butte (6052 ft.) is on. The N butte is the highest of the Pumpkin Buttes and the high point of Campbell County, Wyoming. Mr. Christensen kindly granted a certain lucky dingo permission to climb it today! Should be a fairly easy climb, yet quite a vantage point with a grand view W toward the Bighorn Range if the sky is clear.

Oh, I can hardly wait!

Loopster did have to wait, but not for much longer. By 7:30 AM she was comfortably perched atop pillows and blankets riding high in her usual spot in the G6. Her first Dingo Vacation of 2019 was underway!

By lunch time, a happy Carolina Dog was at Savageton, Wyoming. (MP 35.4 of Hwy 50 S of Gillette) Here, SPHP turned W onto a wide gravel road known as the Black & Yellow Road. Going up a little rise, Cheryl’s Place was on the L, and a sign for the Christensen Ranch appeared on the R. From the top of the rise, North Pumpkin Butte was in view, still quite a few miles off to the SW.

Lupe along Hwy 50 at Savageton, Wyoming. The metal building on the R is Cheryl’s Place along the Black & Yellow Road. Some of the **Middle Pumpkin Buttes** are visible on the L. Photo looks SSW.

On the wide, smooth Black & Yellow Road near Savageton. Photo looks WNW.

**North Pumpkin Butte** from the Black & Yellow Road near Savageton. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

2 miles from Hwy 50 there was a junction. Christensen Road went L (S) toward territory E of North Pumpkin Butte. It seemed counter-intuitive to stick with the Black & Yellow Road, but a 5-18-09 trip report by Edward Earl, and a 7-18-18 GPS track by Daniel Mick both indicated successful ascents from the W or NW, not the E.

The Black & Yellow Road soon turned NW away from North Pumpkin Butte. What Lupe was seeing did not match up with Edward Earl’s trip report. SPHP concluded that was because the Black & Yellow Road must have 2 highway access points. Coming up Hwy 50 from the S, Lupe had reached the S access point at Savageton first. However, Edward Earl had come down Hwy 50 from the N, and must have started on the Black & Yellow Road from an access point considerably closer to Gillette.

At any rate, 6 miles from Hwy 50, Lupe came to a “T” intersection. This was apparently where the N and S routes met. After a brief look around, SPHP turned L (SW) at the “T”.

6 miles from Savageton close to the “T” intersection. Lupe took the road seen in the background toward North Pumpkin Butte from here. Photo looks SSW.

In addition to being cattle country, this whole region was an oilfield as well. A confusing number of intersections with oilfield service roads not mentioned in Edward Earl’s trip report (perhaps they hadn’t existed in 2009?) appeared along the way. Signage wasn’t matching up very well, either, but Lupe did come to what seemed to be some of the places Edward had talked about.

Fortunately, the treeless expanse of open range continually provided a clear view of North Pumpkin Butte. At the intersections, SPHP merely took the best looking road heading either directly toward or to the W (R) of the butte. 4 miles after the turn SW at the “T” intersection, the Christensen Ranch HQ appeared on the R at the end of a short road.

The Christensen Ranch HQ, about 10 miles from Hwy 50 at Savageton. Photo looks NNW.

While Lupe and SPHP were stopped briefly out in front of the drive to the ranch HQ, a pickup truck appeared from one of the side roads. Bob Christensen and some of his family and/or ranch hands were in it. Bob was John’s cousin, and readily accepted SPHP’s explanation that Lupe was here to climb North Pumpkin Butte with John’s permission.

Despite the maze of roads to choose from, Bob said it was easy to get to where Lupe needed to start from. She was already on the right track. Just keep heading S or SW toward the W side of North Pumpkin Butte. Can’t miss it!

Sounded good! Lupe and SPHP stopped for photos at several points along the way.

Getting close to the N end of **North Pumpkin Butte**. Photo looks S.

Six miles from the ranch HQ there was a junction with a good gravel road that headed somewhere off to the W. A sign pointed the way back to Savageton, or straight on S to Casper. Continuing 200 yards S beyond this junction led to another one with a road that headed E toward North Pumpkin Butte. Looked like this might well be the 19.1 mile point from Hwy 50 on the route Edward Earl had taken to get here, although Lupe had come only 16 miles from Savageton.

**North Pumpkin Butte** from next to a 3-way junction 6 miles SW of the Christensen ranch HQ. Photo looks ESE.

The turn toward **North Pumpkin Butte** 200 yards S of the previous photo. Probably the 19.1 mile point along the route Edward Earl had taken.

The road E wound around for 0.75 mile, then turned S descending into a drainage which must have been the North Prong of Willow Creek. A line of small orange rock cliffs was on the R (W). At the bottom, a mud hole covered a curve in the road. Mile 20.0 in Edward Earl’s description? SPHP thought so. The day was sunny and dry, but the road wasn’t. As Edward had predicted, the G6 was done. Paw and foot from here on!

The G6 got left here in the North Prong of Willow Creek drainage. Photo looks NW.

The mud puddle that meant the end of the road for the G6. Photo looks E.

Setting out from the mud hole (1:00 PM, 76ºF), Lupe followed the road as it curved NE on its way out of the valley. After gaining a little elevation, the road curved again. Going SE now, the Carolina Dog soon came to a smallish metal building posted with radiation warnings, apparently in connection with a former uranium mine that was a bit farther S.

At the metal building marked with radiation warnings. Photo looks E.

Beyond the metal building, it quickly became apparent that the main road Looper was on was going to head S avoiding North Pumpkin Butte altogether. A primitive 2 track road angling off to the SE was more promising, so the American Dingo tried it.

A little S of the metal building, Lupe leaves the main road to follow this 2 track road. Photo looks SE.

The 2 track went a short distance to a slight rise from which another primitive road could be seen farther E across a grassy field. That was the road Lupe needed to be on! Close to where she would reach it if she crossed the field, it turned E heading for North Pumpkin Butte.

Fearing the possibility of cactus, or worse yet, rattlesnakes, SPHP wasn’t crazy about the idea of having Lupe leave the road to wander through the field, but no alternative was in sight. Fortunately, crossing the field went without incident. Lupe was soon safely on the other road starting her ascent of North Pumpkin Butte (6,052 ft.).

Wildflower seen while crossing the field.

Lupe’s ascent of North Pumpkin Butte begins in earnest shortly after reaching a 2nd 2 track road. Photo looks NE.

Loop trotted higher along the 2nd 2 track road. It climbed steadily at an easy pace winding mostly E or SE toward North Pumpkin Butte along the S slope of a ridge overlooking a large ravine. The day had been pleasant enough earlier on, but as the afternoon sun blazed high overhead in a nearly cloudless sky, the temperature soared. A mighty warm day to be wearing a fur coat!

Cedars or juniper bushes grew in the big ravine, but for a long way there was no shade at all close to the road. Feeling hot, Lupe plodded along more slowly. Meanwhile, SPHP kept an eye on the line of cliffs along the upper rim of North Pumpkin Butte. Edward Earl had mentioned a light sandy gully toward the N providing a break in the cliffs that was a quicker way to the top of the plateau than a long trek S high along the W face that others had taken before him.

A distinct notch in the cliff line was indeed visible toward the N where the cliffs appeared to be tallest. Maybe that was Edward Earl’s light sandy gully? Worth a shot! When Lupe got higher, she could go check that notch out first. The American Dingo wasn’t interested in that yet, though. When she finally came to a bush close to the road, she was ready for water and a rest in the shade.

Still a long way off, a notch is visible along the upper rim of **North Pumpkin Butte** just to the R of the highest cliffs toward the L. Photo looks E.

At last! Water and a shady spot to hide out for a few minutes.

Looking back down the 2 track road from the shady rest spot. Photo looks NW.

After a short break, Lupe continued higher. She stuck with the road, which gradually deteriorated. A few hundred feet below the W rim of North Pumpkin Butte the road divided at a grassy curve. The American Dingo followed the branch going NE fairly steeply uphill almost directly toward the notch in the line of cliffs.

The notch is a bit difficult to see from this angle, but is near the Center along the rim of the butte. Photo looks NE.

The road veered N and faded away before Lupe made it to the notch. No matter, it wasn’t much farther! The American Dingo roamed here and there while SPHP searched for the easiest route up the remaining short stretch to the notch.

On a big rock close to where the road faded away. Photo looks NW.

Exploring below the cliffs of the W rim. Photo looks E.

The interior of the notch was not visible during Lupe’s approach from the SW. Drawing near, she came across a single track trail leading right to it. Soon Lupe was standing on loose sand at the base of a beautiful horizontally-striped sandstone cliff. Straight ahead was a vertical wall of pock-marked rock.

The notch had to be right around the corner between these two cliffs. It still wasn’t possible to see yet if the notch was actually Edward Earl’s light, sandy gully, some other route to the top of North Pumpkin Butte, or a dead end. However, Lupe was about to find out!

A faint trail *(seen extending up toward the L from Lupe’s head)* led up to where the notch is hidden between two cliffs. Photo looks NE.

On the sand at the base of the beautiful sandstone cliff. The still unseen notch is straight ahead and just around a corner to the R. Photo looks NNE.

Yup! No doubt about it. This was it! Upon turning the corner, a wide slot of sloping terrain between the two cliffs led right on up to the top of North Pumpkin Butte. An easy trek higher, and Lupe was there!

Looking up the notch – an easy ramp to North Pumpkin Butte’s summit plateau. Photo looks ESE.

Up on the W rim of the summit plateau overlooking the notch. Photo looks SSW.

The topo map portrayed North Pumpkin Butte’s summit plateau as a vast almost level region shaped rather like a fish swimming S with a fat belly bulging toward the W. This fish is nearly 1.75 miles long N/S, and part of its midsection is more than 0.5 mile wide E/W.

3 high points varying only slightly in elevation were marked on the map. At the extreme N end of the fish tail was a North Butte survey benchmark at 6,039 ft. Two slightly higher points existed somewhat S of the center of the fish, one not too far from the W edge at 6,049 ft., and another close to the E edge at 6,052 ft. Edward Earl had mentioned that in the opinion of John Mitchler, the true summit of North Pumpkin Butte was actually the high point marked as 6,049 ft.

The notch Lupe had come up was on the W side of the butte between the N and W high points, probably somewhat closer to the W one. The plan was to visit all 3 high points shown on the map, which would insure not only that Loop actually did visit the true summit somewhere along the way, but give her a chance to explore much of the summit region, too.

The American Dingo started out by visiting the rocky W edge of the plateau immediately N of the notch. After enjoying the grand views, she roamed NE a little way before SPHP decided it was time to take another break. Clouds were now building to the W toward the Bighorns, but it was still sunny and warm up on North Pumpkin Butte, although perhaps not quite as hot as it had been earlier on during the long road trek. A light breeze helped. Even so, some shade would have been nice. Tough luck on that. There wasn’t any.

Slightly N of the notch looking N along the W edge.

Exploring the nearly flat summit 0.5 mile from the N end. Photo looks NE.

Taking a break near a NW facing edge. Clouds were now building to the W hiding much of the Bighorn Range. Photo looks W.

Looking NNE along the W edge, still 0.5 mile from the N end.

During the rest break, the clouds seen building to the W caused a change of plan. While the N end of the summit plateau would be fun to visit, it was still a good 0.5 mile away. Maybe it was best to make certain Lupe got to tag the true summit by visiting the 2 higher points to the S first? No telling what those clouds might do on a hot summer afternoon!

Lupe was flexible. She was perfectly happy to head S. The Carolina Dog was soon passing by the notch she had come up again.

Looking down the notch. Photo looks WNW.

S of the notch, Lupe continued along the W rim enjoying tremendous sweeping views. She eventually abandoned the edge to head SE directly toward a tower and metal sheds at HP 6049. This was actually the true summit of North Pumpkin Butte in John Mitchler’s opinion.

S of the notch along the W edge. Photo looks SSW.

On the way to the tower at **HP 6049**. Photo looks SE.

True summit or not, HP 6049 wasn’t too exciting. The small tower and old buildings weren’t much to look at, and it wasn’t close enough to the W edge to have a view. Looking ENE across the summit plateau toward HP 6052, the true summit of North Pumpkin Butte (6,052 ft.) according to the map, not much was to be seen over there, either. A flat grassy plain extended toward no obvious high spot near the E edge.

By the motley collection of old towers and buildings at **HP 6,049**. Photo looks SSE.

There seemed to be no reason to linger at HP 6049. Since the weather was holding up, exploring farther S close to the edge where the views were best sounded like more fun than heading straight over to HP 6052. However, it didn’t turn out that way for Lupe. Proceeding S from HP 6049, she started to encounter cactus. No fun at all!

Looper was soon refusing to go any farther unless SPHP first scouted out a cacti free path. She would then reluctantly come to SPHP, where she would wait again until another stretch was certified cacti-free.

Along the SW rim waiting for the signal that this next stretch is cacti-free. The tower at **HP 6049** is on the R. Photo looks NW.

Loopster on the way, demonstrating touching confidence in SPHP’s ability to spot and protect her from any and all cacti hazards.

This cactus avoidance system worked, but coaxing the Carolina Dog along in this manner slowed progress down considerably. Nevertheless, Lupe did make it all the way to the S end of North Pumpkin Butte. A big metal fence was along part of the S rim. More interesting was the view SE toward the Middle Pumpkin Buttes.

Getting close to the S end of North Pumpkin Butte. The **Middle Pumpkin Buttes** are now in sight. Photo looks SE.

**Middle Pumpkin Buttes** from the S end of North Pumpkin Butte. Photo looks SE.

From the S end of North Pumpkin Butte, Lupe continued her counter-clockwise tour of the summit plateau. She left the edge to visit another tower not too far from the S end, ultimately reaching the E edge farther N. From here she could see a long stretch of the E rim.

Approaching a second small tower perhaps 0.2 mile N of the S end of the butte. Photo looks N.

A spectacular view of the E rim of **North Pumpkin Butte**. Photo looks NNW.

Looper had reached the E rim of North Pumpkin Butte somewhat S of where the map showed HP 6052. She continued N near the edge gaining at least some elevation. Lupe never did come to any obvious highest spot, although she must have passed over HP 6052 somewhere along the way. Looking across the butte, HP 6049 did look higher from here, but long ago SPHP had learned that appearances can be deceiving.

The big fish of North Pumpkin Butte was so large, and cactus had slowed things down so much, that it was becoming clear that Lupe wasn’t going to have time to complete her circumnavigation of the summit plateau. She never was going to get to see the world from the N end of the butte.

Satisfied that Lupe had visited the true summit somewhere along the way, SPHP led her NW across the grassy plateau returning directly to the notch. Little cactus was present in this area. Long before reaching the notch, the American Dingo had forgotten all about cacti, and was happily roaming freely again.

Back at the notch ready to start the descent. Photo looks NW.

After going down through the notch, SPHP called John Christensen to thank him for allowing Lupe to climb North Pumpkin Butte, and let him know that she was on her way down. Mr. Christensen chatted amiably with SPHP for a few minutes, then mentioned that there was water available in the area, if needed. Exactly where, SPHP didn’t quite catch, but on the way down Lupe spotted a huge old tire serving as a reservoir a bit farther S than she had been on the way up.

At the lower end of the notch by the beautiful striped sandstone cliff. Photo looks S.

Leaving the notch behind. Photo looks NE.

S of the notch by the big tire serving as a water reservoir. Photo looks SE.

The long trudge back to the G6 along the winding road was both more pleasant and interesting than expected. The air cooled rapidly as a line of small thunderstorms approached from the SW. Lupe saw lots of cloud to ground lightning only a few miles away. She got sprinkled on lightly a few times, but reached the G6 just as it finally started raining harder. (7:35 PM)

That rain didn’t last long. The Carolina Dog enjoyed a fabulous ride back to Hwy 50. This time SPHP took Edward Earl’s route along the Black & Yellow Road to the N highway access point closer to Gillette. Such a golden evening! Lupe was excited to see many pronghorn antelope, cows, and sheep from the G6.

Approaching Gillette, a dark purple sky was ominous. Lightning flashed continuously, a violent wind blew, and it rained hard. However, the worst of the storm had already passed by the time Lupe reached town. The sun was gone, and a black night had begun. SPHP made a brief stop for supplies, then drove W on I-90.

Lupe’s long day, the first of her first Dingo Vacation of 2019 during which she’d been privileged to climb North Pumpkin Butte (6,052 ft.), finally came to an end at the Powder River rest area. (11:00 PM)

**North Pumpkin Butte** from close to the Black & Yellow Road’s N junction with Hwy 50 SW of Gillette, WY 6-26-19

Links:

Next Adventure

5-18-09 Trip Report by Edward Earl

7-18-18 GPS Track by Daniel Mick

6-12-04 Trip Report by John Mitchler

Campbell County’s Historic Ranches – The Christensen Ranch

John Christensen (307) 660-3852. North Pumpkin Butte is entirely on private property. Obtain owner’s permission before visiting.

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