Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana (8-15-20)

Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-14-20, Daybreak, 32ºF, Upper Taylor Fork trailhead, Madison Range, MT – Just getting light out.  The sun wouldn’t be up for a while yet.  Jobe was up already, busily rearranging gear in his Rubicon when SPHP came to.  Lupe sniffed excitedly, raring to go as soon as SPHP let her out of the G6.  Maybe she was expecting another Koch Peak (11,293 ft.) outing?

That wasn’t in the cards, a travel day was.  Wasn’t long before Jobe was ready.  Handshakes and pawshakes, and he was off.  The G6 followed the Rubicon across the bridge over Taylor Creek a minute later.  For 3 snail-paced bumpy miles, the Koch Peak adventure was sort of still on.  Wasn’t until the turn E into the rising sun on Taylor Fork Road that SPHP was certain the G6 wouldn’t pop a tire.

At Hwy 191, SPHP turned N down the Gallatin River valley.  Heavy traffic even this early in the day.  At I-90, the G6 headed W.  Jobe was long gone.  His adventures were taking him E to Billings tonight.  Been fun, but Lupe wouldn’t see her friend Jobe Wymore again this year.  The Carolina Dog was off for parts unknown!  W of Butte, SPHP turned S on I-15.  Never been here before!  Let the next adventure begin!

8-14-20, 11:40 AM, Hwy 43 –  The Big Hole River was plenty wide, but not terribly deep.  Peering into the water, the rocks forming the river bottom were all slimy and green, thick with long strands of algae swaying in the current.  Slippery!  Lupe did not venture in, preferring to admire the river’s sparkling surface from a dry rock.

Checking out the Big Hole River.

Hwy 43 ended at a “T” intersection with Hwy 93 at Lost Trail Pass along the Idaho – Montana border.  Sticking with Montana, SPHP turned N.   At Conner came a L (W) turn on West Fork Road, a shortcut which crossed both the E and W Forks of the Bitterroot River en route to Hwy 473.

Not far now!  Heading SW on Hwy 473 for a couple of miles, an access point for the W Fork of the Bitterroot River appeared on the L just before the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center came into view on the R.  Another 0.5 mile, and the highway crossed Trapper Creek.  Immediately beyond it was a sign for a R turn saying “Forest Access Baker Lake”.

8-14-20, 1:21 PM, W Fork of the Bitterroot River – Lupe waded in the cool, clear cool waters of the Bitterroot River.  No slimy green algae coating the rocks here!  Every pebble on the bottom stood out in crisp, watery relief.  SPHP waded in with the Carolina Dog for a few minutes, but she was soon more interested in a squirrel scolding her from the trees above the riverbank than cooling off.

W Fork of the Bitterroot River at the access point across Hwy 473 from the Trapper Creek Job Corps Center.

SPHP relaxed on a tiny sandy beach.  It had been too early to want to head up to the Baker Lake trailhead, so upon finding the access road, SPHP had simply turned around.  Tempting to take a swim, but the trip journal needed attention.  Two hours listening to the soothing rippling waters zoomed by.  Loop would have preferred to continue the squirrel siege, but really hadn’t been making any progress with it.  In any case, it was time to move on.

According to the topo map, the Baker Lake access road left Hwy 473 as USFS Road No. 363.  After crossing a big meadow, proof appeared on the R as the road turned up into the trees.

Yup! This is the right way, alright!

A mile from the highway, a big sign at a junction with Baker Lloyd Road (No. 5629) said 9 miles to the Baker Lake trail.  SPHP continued straight, sticking with No. 363, which by now was climbing steadily and getting both washboardy and very dusty.

At the junction with Baker Lloyd Road, which isn’t the way to go.

Another mile on No. 363 led to a spot where roads curved both L and R.  Directly ahead on a hillside was a “363”, apparently meant for the road going off to the L.  Instead, SPHP made a sharp R turn onto a road with a small sign saying “5634” with a hiking symbol below it.

The 8 miles on USFS Road No. 5634 were an adventure of their own!  Nearly the entire way the road wound crazily or made long switchbacks along a steep forested slope.  The rate of climb was never worrisome, in fact, parts of the route were level or close to it, yet the whole drive was unnerving, especially where openings appeared in the forest.  It was then possible to see the plunging mountainside and a vast airy expanse over to mountains miles to the E, mountains no higher than where the G6 now crept cautiously along.

However, the true source of anxiety was the extreme narrowness of the road, which produced a greatly heightened sense of always being on the brink.  No. 5634 was fine for one vehicle, but what if another was met on its way down the mountain?  The prospect of having to back down for who knew how far was dreadful, yet it must happen all the time.

An answer came 3 miles into the journey.  A vehicle did appear coming the other way.  Luck of the Dingo!  A Jeep!  No way two vehicles could pass on the road at this point, but the Jeep pulled almost entirely off the road leaning at a 40º angle on the uphill slope.  The G6 squeezed past.

Onward!  G6, ho!

Should have come up earlier in the day!  3 more times vehicles appeared heading down.  Luckily, all these instances occurred at points where it actually was possible to sneak by, the only abuse suffered by the G6 the rude scraping of tree branches along the passenger side.

8-14-20, 4:02 PM, Baker Lake trailhead –  The Baker Lake trailhead proved to be little more than a long wide spot where USFS Road No. 5634 simply dead-ended.  Room enough to carefully turn around, if the joint wasn’t too overrun already, which it might have been if those 4 vehicles that had already departed had still been up here.

SPHP did turn around, parking the G6 facing back out as close to the exit as possible.  Might help avoid getting hemmed in when the time came to depart!  An hour after leaving Hwy 473, the American Dingo hopped out.  If Loopster was as relieved as SPHP to finally be here, she gave no indication of it.

A short stroll past pickups and SUV’s to the end of the road led to the usual display of rules and regulations, but little of interest specific to this location.  Hours yet until the sun would set, but here on the E side of the mountain, much was already in shadow.  20 feet beyond the display, a well-worn single track trail curved up into the sullen deep green gloom of tall densely-packed conifers.

The evening wore on.  By nightfall, only 5 vehicles remained.

Baker Lake trailhead at the end of USFS Road No. 5634. Photo looks N.

8-15-20, 7:55 AM, 52ºF, Baker Lake trailhead – Morning sunlight filtering through the trees completely dispelled yesterday’s gloom as Lupe set off for Baker Lake on Trail No. 234.  The trail began with a short steep climb W or SW through thick forest before leveling out as it turned S.  Upon reaching a small clearing, the trail started switchbacking higher.  Before long, Looper came to a huge rock formation out in a larger opening.

This must be Baker Point!  Lupe scrambled partway up for a look.  Kind of hazy out, especially to the E.

About to set out from the Baker Lake trailhead. Photo looks S.
Baker Point. Photo looks SSE.

At Baker Point, Lupe reached the start of a broad ridge sloping slowly, but steadily higher.  The trail headed WNW along this ridge passing through a more open forest of younger trees.  After gaining perhaps 200 feet of elevation, the trail left the ridgeline to head more directly W or WSW along a slope N of the Baker Creek valley, flattening out as it did so, and even losing elevation in spots.

Glimpses of the ridge to the SW that Lupe ultimately needed to get over to began appearing.  Eventually, Loop caught sight of towering cliffs on the E face of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.), too.

In the younger forest past Baker Point.
The ridge on the L leads to Trapper Peak. Photo looks SW.
East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.

After losing 80 feet of elevation, a big opening was reached on the N (R) side of the trail.  This region contained many huge rocks that had long ago crumbled ago from the ridge the trail had abandoned, the top of which was now in sight at least 100 feet higher.

Below the ridge the trail had abandoned. Photo looks N.

From this low point, the trail began climbing again as it wound among boulders and tree roots in an older forest.  Close to Baker Lake exposed slabs of rounded bedrock appeared.  With so much rock about, the forest was more dispersed.  Upon reaching Baker Creek, Loop crossed a bridge of three small logs before following the stream to its source.

Boulders, tree roots, and an older, denser forest en route to Baker Lake.
Slabs of bedrock appeared shortly before reaching Baker Lake. Photo looks N.
Crossing the 3 log bridge over Baker Creek.
Baker Creek was small, but quite scenic flowing over exposed bedrock.

Lupe found Baker Lake tucked away in a spectacular setting!  Large rock formations bordered the E and S shores, and magnificent mature forests encircled the lake wherever sufficient soil was present.  Huge protective ridges pressed in from the N and S, and off to the W was a splendid view of the E face of East Trapper Peak.  Mirror smooth, the lake doubled the grandeur of its surroundings in near perfect reflections.

Baker Lake. East Trapper Peak (L of Center). Photo looks W.
Another angle. East Trapper Peak (R). Photo Looks WSW.
East Trapper Peak from Baker Lake. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Evidently, Baker Lake is a popular destination.  Exploring boulders and bedrock along the E shore, Lupe saw colorful tents and hammocks both nearby, and over on the W side of the lake.  However, getting to Baker Lake was merely a good start to the day for the peakbagging Dingo.

Trapper Peak (10,157 ft.) was Lupe’s destination.  Unseen, except for the E summit, Trapper Peak was still another 2,300+ feet higher and 2 miles away.  There was actually an official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 that came up the mountain’s humongous SE ridge, but the Baker Lake route that Lupe was taking was shorter, more scenic, and required 640 feet less elevation gain.

The whole trick to making the Baker Lake route work was to get up onto the ridge S of the lake, which was merely a different part of the same SE ridge the official trail went up.  However, the topo map showed the N face of this ridge being very steep for 200+ feet.  Didn’t look so bad from here at the lake, though.  Lupe headed for it, staying somewhat E of the lake following an easy route higher along bedrock slabs.

The ridge Lupe had to get up onto as seen from Baker Lake. The route up is just to the R of the big pine tree at L. Photo looks SSW.
On the bedrock slabs heading for the E end of the ridge (Center). This region is SSE of Baker Lake. Much better than going due S from the lake. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP had previously seen GPS tracks of routes others had successfully tried from Baker Lake.  Nearly all of them went up toward the lower E end of the part of the ridge closest to the lake.  A shaded area full of trees could be seen between two cliffy spots as Lupe got closer.  Figuring this was the way to go, suspicions were soon confirmed by the discovery of a use trail near the bottom of the slope.

Aim for the dark area (L of Center) between the cliffy spots! Photo looks S.
At the base of the climb, which is just to the R of these cliffs. Photo looks SSE.

The slope the use trail went up was steep, very steep, but not all that rocky.  SPHP clung to trees, branches, bushes – basically whatever was available, whenever available.  With 4 on the floor, Loopster had no trouble.  Near the top, the rate of climb diminished.  Gonna make it!

Getting close to the top. Photo looks S.
Made in the shade! The use trail flattens out just beyond Lupe. Photo looks SSE.

Up on top, a large pile of deadfall was near the big flat spot where the use trail came up.  The use trail turned R here, heading W just S of a line of cliffs.  However, before going that way, Lupe scrambled over some of the deadfall to a rocky high point visible just a little to the NE.  This high point featured several large dead trees, and was a terrific viewpoint.  Baker Lake could be seen from here, as well as both East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.) and North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.).

At the viewpoint NE of where the use trail reached the ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.
Baker Lake (Center) from above. Photo looks N.
East Trapper Peak (L) and North Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks WNW.

Reaching the ridgeline meant that the only tricky part of the ascent was over, but the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go.  Returning to the use trail, she now followed it W through a forest different from the one down by Baker Lake.  Up here, the trees were smaller, more spaced out, and many were dead.

Following the use trail higher. Photo looks WNW.

The use trail gained elevation at an easy to moderate pace that didn’t vary much.  Every now and then, Lupe ventured N to the edge of the cliffs to check out the views.  She finally came to a point where Middle Lake was in sight, along with just a glimpse of Gem Lake above it.

Middle Lake (near Lupe’s head). East Trapper Peak (L) and North Trapper Peak (Center). Photo looks NW.

Close to this viewpoint, the terrain steepened as Loop climbed a ridge of light-colored talus.  These rocks tended to be flattish, which made them an easier scramble than they might otherwise have been.  Lichens gave all the rocks on top of the ridge a mottled dark gray and light green cast.

This ridge was HP8768 on the topo map.  Ahead was a chasm due to a large notch in the main ridge, and a terrific view of East Trapper Peak.

Climbing the light-colored talus ridge. Photo looks W.
East Trapper Peak (R) from HP8768. Photo looks W.

Lupe now had to veer SW along the talus ridge to avoid the chasm.  The talus slowed things down, but eventually played out.  Back in the forest, Loop soon turned W again, quickly regaining the elevation she’d lost leaving HP8768 and more.

By now the use trail was intermittent, but the overall route was clear.  The open forest and moderate pace of climb made travel relatively easy.  Lupe kept heading W, constantly gaining elevation.  Eventually the line of cliffs to the N began to curve NW.

A high point of light-colored rocks now appeared near the edge, but the terrain steepened rapidly in that direction, and a young densely-packed forest made attaining that high point difficult.  Abandoning the attempt to follow the cliffs any farther, Lupe took a course more to the WNW.

The forest soon began to thin.  Suddenly it ended.  A few thin lines of stunted trees ran down a long slope of scattered rocks and loose soil.  Directly ahead were several distant high points.

Oh, I think that’s it, SPHP! Trapper Peak (L)! Photo looks WNW.

Wandering higher on the vast open slope beyond the forest, Lupe now had views of mountains to the SW.  A ridge of dark stone appeared to the N, the summit of East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.).  Instead of going to it, the American Dingo aimed for the saddle leading to Trapper Peak.

In the open on Trapper Peak’s vast SE slope. HP9587 (R of Center). Photo looks SW.
Below East Trapper Peak’s summit ridge. Photo looks N.

On the way to the saddle, Lupe came across the official Trapper Peak trail No. 133 bound for the same destination.  By then, she didn’t have much farther to go.  The broad flat saddle between East Trapper Peak and Trapper Peak proved to be terrain similar to the giant slope Looper had just come up, a rock-strewn plain of gritty loose soil and short, sparse vegetation.

Approaching Trapper Peak. Trail No. 133 (R). Photo looks W.
East Trapper Peak from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

Before heading for Trapper Peak’s summit, Lupe ventured over to the N edge of the saddle.  Here, beyond a giant cirque, was a tremendous view of a series of rugged peaks and jagged ridges extending from North Trapper Peak (9,801 ft.) all the way to El Capitan (9,983 ft.).

El Capitan (far L) and North Trapper Peak (far R). Photo looks NNW.

At the W end of the saddle, the official Trapper Peak trail vanished as far as SPHP could tell.  Two high points were visible ahead, the more distant one clearly higher than than the one Lupe faced at the moment.  Gonna be slow going!  All talus from here on.

At the W end of the saddle, approaching the talus-covered slopes leading to the summit. Photo looks W.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone along the entire Baker Lake route except right at Baker Lake, but the official Trapper Peak trail was busy.  Hikers were coming and going.  From here, most seemed to head W right over this first high point.  Following their example, Looper did the same.

On the talus slope leading to the first high point. Photo looks W.

From the top, which turned out to be a series of mini high points along a talus ridge modestly higher toward the W, the next high point ahead was in full view.  Definitely the true summit!  Whether coming up onto this first ridge was really the best route or not seemed doubtful.  At the W end, the American Dingo faced a short, but very steep down climb in big talus to get to a minor saddle leading to the final ascent.

Maybe it would have been better to stay lower simply skirting this ridge to the S?  Hard to say.  Didn’t matter now.  Lupe did what she had to do.

True summit of Trapper Peak (Center) from the first high point. Photo looks WNW.
East Trapper Peak (L) from the E end of the first high point. Photo looks ENE.
At the W end of the first high point with the final ascent dead ahead! Getting down to the saddle leading to it was trickier than it looks. Photo looks NW.

8-15-20, 1:18 PM, Trapper Peak – Made it!  Well, almost.  Having scrambled up from the S, Lupe was now a little SW of the true summit, maybe 20 or 25 feet below it.  Quite a few people around.  Lots up on top.  Still early, the Carolina Dog could wait for them to clear out.  Time for a rest, anyway.  Except for a bit of haziness, the weather was perfect.

Hah!  That was SPHP’s opinion.  The American Dingo was hot.  While SPHP found a perch from which to enjoy the views, Loop searched for a comfortable spot with a bit of shade.  None!  Giving up on finding any, Lupe finally plunked herself down on a patch of dirt to pant and snap at flies.  A couple bowls of water provided at least some relief.

Don’t happen to have a parasol in that backpack, do you, SPHP?

A little SW of where Lupe and SPHP were hanging out, an airy platform of rock provided a tremendous vantage point.  Like the true summit, it was occupied.  However, when it eventually opened up, Loop went over that way for a look around.

Airy platform (L) before it got vacated. Photo looks W.
Due to some big cracks, as close to the airy platform as Loop got. Photo looks W.

To the S and SW, Boulder Peak (9,804 ft.), East Boulder Peak (9,480 ft.) and HP9587 stood out.  Beyond them a huge expanse of lesser peaks and ridges stretched to the horizon.

HP9578 (L), East Boulder Peak (Center) and Boulder Peak (R). Photo looks SSW.
HP9578. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Due N, and more than 2,500 feet lower, a good chunk of Cave Lake was visible.  Sugarloaf Peak (9,586 ft.) towered a couple of ridges past it, while El Capitan (9,983 ft.) dominated the scene farther NNW.

Cave Lake (R of Center), Sugarloaf Peak (Center), & El Capitan (far L). Photo looks N.
El Capitan. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking WNW.
Summit from close to the airy platform. Photo looks NE.

People continually came and went.  Most stayed up at the true summit only a little while before moving on, but a few lingered for a long time.  Lupe was patient, but the summit was never unoccupied.  More than 1.5 hours drifted by.

Alright.  Ready or not, maybe it was time for action?  Despite a couple in the middle of enjoying a picnic up there, SPHP encouraged Loopster to proceed.  On a mountain this busy, complete privacy was a luxury.

Guess we’re going to go barge in at the top now! Photo looks NE.
Looking back on the way to the true summit. Photo looks WSW.
Memorial stone near the summit.

Looper got high, very high!  But not quite all the way to the tippy top yet.  East Trapper Peak was in view again, and so was the entire SE ridge that the official Trapper Peak trail comes up.

East Trapper Peak (L of Center) and the first high point on the way up (R of Center). Photo looks E.
Trail No. 133 comes up the long slope in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP kept inching closer to the picnickers.  They finished eating, but the woman started calling people on her cell phone.  Meanwhile, Loopster discovered a survey benchmark, and got up on one of the very highest rocks.

The first of 2 survey benchmarks Lupe found on Trapper Peak.
Just a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had been waiting for a turn on the summit rock for nearly 2 hours now.  The couple was sitting right next to it.  SPHP finally apologized for the intrusion, as Loop leapt up to the true summit.  Close to the highest point, another survey benchmark was attached to this rock.

True summit of Trapper Peak. El Capitan (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.
The “Trapper” survey benchmark.
How’s this for a view? We’re higher than El Capitan (Center) and everything else around here! Photo looks NW.

Fortunately, the couple was friendly.  They didn’t mind Lupe being up here, too.  The American Dingo took the liberty of going past them to get over to the best view of North and East Trapper Peaks.

East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
North Trapper Peak (L) and East Trapper Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
More of the chasm between them. Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, the phone conversations quickly headed S.  Suddenly, the woman was weeping as she spoke with her mother.  Awkward, but the situation didn’t last.  Trapper Peak’s joyful mood had been ruined for the couple.  They left, heading down the mountain.

Sad that their Trapper Peak experience ended that way, but it worked for Lupe.  For the first time she had the true summit all to herself.  Still people not too far away, so the Carolina Dog better enjoy it while she could.

In dramatic solitude at the true summit! Photo looks NE.
More of the summit region. Photo looks NE.
Looking WSW now.
Looking W with help from the telephoto lens.

8-15-20, 3:29 PM, Trapper Peak – The true summit photo shoot hadn’t taken long, but Loop had now been at or near the top of Trapper Peak for over 2 fabulous hours.  So this was it, the inevitable moment of truth.

On Trapper Peak.

While the return was simply a matter of retracing the same basic Baker Lake route, Lupe changed things up a bit, making new discoveries and having new experiences along the way.

After scrambling down to the little saddle between Trapper Peak and the first high point to the E, Loop followed a trail S, losing elevation instead of going up and over that talus ridge.  Once she turned E, cairns were all over the place, but still no path.  Just a jumble of large talus, same as the ridgeline had been.

So, no matter which route was taken, it was simply a time-consuming talus trek over to the big saddle W of East Trapper Peak.  Once Lupe got there, instead of jumping on the official Trapper Peak trail to start down the enormous SE slope, Lupe climbed East Trapper Peak (9,928 ft.).  This was easily accomplished from close to the SE end of the summit ridge where she didn’t have to do much scrambling.

For no more effort than it took, the side jaunt up East Trapper Peak was very worthwhile!  The views of Trapper Peak were splendid, and even Baker Lake and most of the route back to it were visible from up here.

Trapper Peak from East Trapper Peak. Photo looks WSW.
North Trapper Peak (Center) and El Capitan (far L). Photo looks N.
East Trapper Peak summit region with Trapper Peak in the background. Photo looks WSW.
Baker Lake (L). The route back circles along the top of the cliff line. Photo looks ESE.

During the return, those boots started bothering SPHP’s paws again.  Lupe suffered no such inconveniences.  Once back in the forest, the Carolina Dog had a blast racing about searching for squirrels, while SPHP hobbled after her.

The talus ridge at HP8768 was easily avoided.  However, this success was completely overshadowed by a mistake SPHP made descending the very steep slope leading down to Baker Lake.

Instead of staying toward the E (R), halfway down SPHP led Loop down a path more to the W.  This missed the nice trek on the slabs Lupe had taken earlier in the day that would have gotten her back to Baker Lake with little difficulty.  The American Dingo dropped much further down into a jungle of deadfall, boulders, bogs, and hollows.  SPHP endured a lot of useless thrashing about before reaching the S shore of Baker Lake.

8-15-20, 8:40 PM, Baker Lake trailhead – Whew!  What a day!  Even Lupe was acting tired as SPHP limped gingerly to the G6.  The Trapper Peak adventure wasn’t over yet.  One more thing to do.  After getting Loopster fed and the pack stuffed back into the G6, SPHP opened a Coke and a box of Dots, then turned the key.

In the morning, vehicles would be coming up super narrow USFS Road No. 5634.  Now was the time to get back down to the highway.  Twilight faded to black on the 8 mile Coke slurping, Dot munching journey back to USFS Road No. 363.  Slowly, cautiously!  Still took a long time, but the experience was much less nerve-wracking in the dark without those daunting views or oncoming vehicles to worry about.

Success!  Took the better part of an hour, but so what?  The American Dingo could now spend the night twitching and dreaming of her Trapper Peak adventures at the access area along the beautiful W Fork of the Bitterroot River.  And why not?  That was SPHP’s plan, too.

Trapper Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana 8-15-20

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 262 – Peak 5400 & Pillar Peak (1-13-21)

9:03 AM, 37ºF, Camp 5 Road trailhead off Hwy 14A W of Boulder Park – Overcast, but warm for the middle of January.  Last warm day before a giant Canadian air mass was supposed to come howling in out of the N.  Dead calm at the moment, and about time to get New Year 2021 off to a good start!  The American Dingo was rarin’ to go!

Lupe had been here once before, years ago.  SPHP couldn’t remember exactly when, but the big, empty trailhead seemed completely familiar.  Anxious to get underway, Loop set off heading SE down Camp 5 Road.  She soon crossed a dry wash at the bottom of the Box Elder Creek drainage.  Camp 5 Road then curved SW on a short uphill stretch, before leveling out at a meadow 0.25 mile from the trailhead.  Roads branched out in various directions.

This place seemed familiar, too.

At the Camp 5 Road trailhead ready for the first Black Hills, SD expedition of 2021!
Starting out along Camp 5 Road, aka USFS Road No. 172 at this point.
Approaching the Box Elder Creek drainage. Photo looks S.

Camp 5 Road resumed its SE course here, branching off to the L.  Lost Gulch Road continued straight ahead, while a lesser road curved off to the NW a bit beyond this junction.

Which way, SPHP?  Where are we going?

Straight ahead, Loop!  Lost Gulch Road!  Thought we’d kick off 2021 with a mountain you’ve never been to before, mighty Peak 5400!

What’s so mighty about it?

Who knows?  We’ll find out when we get there.  Lists of John says it has 360 feet of prominence, which is about all I know about it, unless you remember what it looks like?

Remember what it looks like?  Have we seen it before, SPHP?

Yeah, a long time ago, from Pillar Peak (5,469 ft.).

In the meadow where Camp 5 Road forks off to the L. Lupe continued straight on Lost Gulch Road, aka USFS Road No. 172.1. Photo looks SW.

Pillar Peak (5,469 ft.)!  Pillar Peak had been ages ago!  Well, maybe just one age ago.  Lupe had first climbed Pillar Peak an overcast day way back in February, 2015.  Pillar Peak had the distinction of being the first post SPHP had ever written for The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe.

Of course, Lupe had already gotten up to Black Hills expedition No. 120 by then, so there had been an illustrious, still little known prior age, too.

Lost Gulch Road curved W heading up into a forested valley.  Had Loop been this way before?  SPHP was almost certain she had, but nothing along in here rang a bell.  After going 0.5 mile W, Lost Gulch Road curved S (L) at a snowy junction with USFS Road No. 804.

0.25 mile farther, and Lost Gulch Road bent E as it passed a ravine.  SPHP stopped to check the map.  Yeah, this must be it.  Time to leave the road.  Lupe headed SW up the SE side of the ravine.

About to leave Lost Gulch Road. Photo looks SSW.
Heading up the SE side of the ravine. Photo looks WSW.

The Carolina Dog didn’t get far at all before reaching a narrow, deep side ravine coming down from the S.  Since Loop was already well above the bottom of this drainage, it was blocking further advance SW.  Instead of descending into it, Lupe turned S climbing along the side of the steep hill E of this new ravine.

No point in going all the way to the top of this first hill, though.  What Lupe really needed was to get over to the W side of the ravine.  Avoiding additional elevation gain, Loop continued S on a steep slope littered with loose pine needles. The ravine soon rose to Loopster’s level, permitting her to follow the bottom of it higher.

Going up the narrow side ravine. Photo looks S.

Loopster got only a little higher before the ravine widened and started leveling out to some degree.  She could easily continue SW from here, and began a moderately steep climb.  Before long a clearing with a bit of a view appeared.  Crook Mountain (4,930 ft.) was in sight off to the N.

At the first viewpoint. Crook Mountain (L). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe was now somewhere ENE of unseen HP5082 way out near the far NE end of Peak 5400’s long N ridge.  Continuing SW, she soon came to the S edge of the ridge.  Veteran Peak (5,333 ft.) was visible among other hills to the SE.

Veteran Peak (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SE.

Continuing W along the S or SE edge of the ridge, Lupe came to a series of rock outcroppings providing viewpoints.  She caught a glimpse of Bear Butte (4,422 ft.), and shortly after that a half-way decent look at Peak 5400 itself.

Bear Butte (Center). Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.
Hey! We’re making progress! Peak 5400 dead ahead! Photo looks SW.

Although Peak 5400’s summit was still 0.67 mile away, Lupe had already gained most of the elevation she needed to in order to get there.  As a result, the remaining ridge trek was pretty easy.  Surprisingly scenic, too!  Lots of nice views to enjoy from interesting rock formations along the SE edge.  Even the middle of the ridge was often much more open than SPHP had been anticipating.

Somewhere along the way, Lupe passed or went over HP5082, but exactly when and where that occurred wasn’t entirely clear.

At a rocky clearing. Photo looks W.
Another glimpse of Bear Butte (Center). Photo looks NE.
Approaching one of the larger rock formations. Photo looks SW.

As the ridge turned S, it broadened out and the rate of climb decreased.  Soon the forested summit came into sight beyond a big open region.

Getting close now! Photo looks S.
True summit dead ahead, somewhere up in the trees. Photo looks S.

Windy up here!  That Canadian air mass must be moving in sooner than expected.  Carolina Dogs don’t care much for wind, but the terrific views from Peak 5400 were so totally unexpected that Lupe was willing to put up with it to some extent.

The panorama encompassing Bear Butte (4,422 ft.), Deadman Mountain (4,933 ft.), and the prairies E of the Black Hills was incredible, but Pillar Peak (5,469 ft.) and Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) off to the W were even more eye-catching.

Bear Butte (L) and Deadman Mountain (R). Photo looks ENE.
Hey, there’s Terry Peak (L) and our old friend, Pillar Peak (R)! Photo looks WSW.
Terry Peak (Center) and Pillar Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.
Hurry up and take the shot, SPHP! Before I get blown away would be nice! Terry Peak (L) and Pillar Peak (Center). Photo looks W.

Leaving the scenic, but annoyingly windy W edge of the mountain, Loop headed SE intent upon finding both shelter and Peak 5400’s true summit hidden somewhere not too far away in the pine forest.  SPHP figured the top would probably be just a big non-descript flat spot buried among the trees, but that turned out not to be the case at all.

The Carolina Dog didn’t have to go very far into the forest before the terrain sloped sharply up to a long, narrow ridge of rock.  Reaching it near its WNW end, Lupe immediately discovered a loose collection of rocks piled against a much bigger rock perched at a sharp slant.  On the other side was a precipitous 20 foot drop.

Although several stones along the crest of this minor ridge appeared almost as high, it was pretty clear that the American Dingo had already found the true summit of Peak 5400.

This is it! The top of Peak 5400! Photo looks WNW.

Not quite high enough to be above the treetops, the summit ridge did provide some protection from the wind, but it was still rather breezy.  Views were open to the N and W, but not to the S or E.  Nearby Pillar Peak and much more distant Terry Peak again stood out among many other hills and mountains in sight.

Finding a reasonably comfortable spot among the rocks, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, enjoying a snack while taking it all in.

Pillar Peak (L) and in the foreground. Mount Theodore Roosevelt (5,680 ft.) (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Terry Peak (Center). Photo looks WSW.
Peak 5400’s rocky summit ridge, which was roughly 200 feet long. Photo looks SE.

After nearly half an hour, Loopster was ready to move on.  There was more to Peak 5400 that she wanted to explore.  Traveling ESE along the summit ridge, she found a way down below the line of small cliffs, intent upon seeing what things looked like from down here.  Sniffing her way along the base of the cliffs, she discovered they were tallest toward the W and gradually petered out toward the E.

So this is what it’s like on the S side of the ridge! Photo looks WNW.

With the summit ridge more or less fully explored now, Lupe headed S across a snowy field full of bushes and young aspens.  Turning W, she quickly came to more rock formations.  Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) was visible on the horizon.

Fair amount of territory to explore up here on Peak 5400! Let’s check it out! Photo looks SE.
Custer Peak (Center) on the horizon. Bear Den Mountain (5,642 ft.) (L). Photo looks SW.
Zoomed in a little more.
Custer Peak (Center). Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

A 15 foot scramble up onto the top of this rock formation revealed that Lupe was now perched along the upper rim of a line of much taller cliffs offering a slightly different perspective on Pillar Peak.

Pillar Peak (L of Center) from another line of cliffs. Photo looks WNW.

There was even more to see!  Exploring back to the E now, Lupe came to yet another sweet view of Bear Butte (4,422 ft.).

Mighty nice, aye? Bear Butte (Center). Photo looks NE.

Peak 5400’s SW ridge would get Lupe over to Pillar Peak, so she decided to explore it, too.  Passing more nifty rock formations along the way, the Carolina Dog eventually made it to USFS Road No. 804, which went over the saddle leading to Pillar Peak.

Cool rock formations near the start of the SW ridge. Photo looks SSE.
At USFS Road No. 804 in the saddle leading to Pillar Peak. Photo looks NW.

Crossing the road, Lupe started up Pillar Peak’s SE ridge.  After reaching an initial high point, she paused for a look back at Peak 5400.

That’s where we were! Peak 5400 right behind me! Photo looks E.

Pillar Peak’s SE ridge was a lot different than Peak 5400’s SW ridge.  Instead of easily avoided rock formations and a trek through a snowy pine forest, Lupe had to force her way through dense stands of bushes, young aspens, rotting deadfall, and a jumble of medium-sized rocks.

The slope was easy enough at first, leveled out for a bit, then steepened.  Loop even had to do a bit of scrambling before she finally reached more open territory where things got easier again.  A cake walk stroll up a gentle slope of small bushes and minor deadfall got her to the top of a rocky knoll.  Pillar Peak’s summit was now in sight again just a few hundred feet away.

Approaching Pillar Peak’s summit. Photo looks NW.

Nearly 6 years after climbing Pillar Peak (5,469 ft.) for the first time, Lupe again stood at the true summit.  Nothing to block the views in any direction up here, but the Carolina Dog wasn’t having much fun.  Braced against a 20+ mph NW wind, she just wanted SPHP to hurry up and take that blasted photo!

Terry Peak (R) from the true summit of Pillar Peak. Photo looks SW.

Time for another break anyway.  After one quick shot, Loop and SPHP abandoned the top of the mountain, retreating 15 or 20 feet down the S side of the summit.  With a wall of granite to block the wind, conditions weren’t bad at all.  For a while, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap again, a couple of eagerly anticipated chocolate coconut bars making life sweet.

Out of the wind, thinking deep thoughts.
Wouldn’t happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, would you, SPHP? Peak 5400 (L of Center). Photo looks ESE.

A pleasant break, but once supplies ran out, not much use in prolonging it.  The wind was only supposed to get worse, turning into a complete gale later this evening.  Pillar Peak was awesome, though!  The roomy summit region featured a maze of grassy lanes running between minor rock formations providing a variety of excellent vantage points.

So Looper wasn’t going to just cut and run.  Conditions would have to be worse than this for that to happen!  Instead, she returned to the summit, for at least one good look around.  The wind came in powerful sudden gusts, so she often really had to brace herself.

Looking NW.
The big view. Terry Peak (L of Center). Photo looks WSW.
Terry Peak (Center). Photo looks WSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
W end of Pillar Peak’s summit region. Terry Peak (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks WSW.

To the N, Whitewood Peak (5,120 ft.) and Crook Mountain (4,930 ft.) were easily identifiable.  Off to the NW was a less readily recognized peak.  Green Mountain (5,325 ft.)?  Probably, but SPHP wasn’t certain.

Whitewood Peak (far L) and Crook Mountain (R) behind Lupe. Photo looks N.
Green Mountain (?) (far L), and Whitewood Peak (R). Photo looks NNW.

In the opposite direction, Bear Den Mountain (5,642 ft.) was visible to the S.  And, of course, Peak 5400 was off to the E.

Bear Den Mountain (R). Photo looks S.
Peak 5400 (Center). Photo looks ESE.

And that was about all the wind Loopster was willing to put up with.  A brief, final return to the true summit rock, and she was on her way.

Final moments atop Pillar Peak.
Leaving Pillar Peak (R). Photo looks W.
Last glance back.

Instead of going down Pillar Peak’s messy SE ridge the way she’d come up, the Carolina Dog went S down a steeper slope to the first saddle leading to Dome Mountain (5,512 ft.).  From here, Lupe headed SE down a wide, snowy valley to pick up USFS Road No. 804.

Once on the road, the rest was easy.  Lupe followed No. 804 over the saddle between Pillar Peak and Peak 5400, and started down the other side.  No. 804 would eventually take her down Pillar Peak’s long NE ridge, before linking back up with Lost Gulch Road.

USFS Road No. 804.

Well, it seemed the American Dingo’s first Black Hills expedition of 2021 had been a success!  The wind was scarcely noticeable down here, and the return was a happy, peaceful time.  No. 804 was a quiet, secluded trek, with a few whitetail deer thrown in for a bit of excitement.

4:13 PM, 52ºF, Camp 5 Road trailhead – Back to the G6 before sunset!  Unusual this time of year.  Twilight hadn’t completely faded by the time Lupe got home.  Good thing the Carolina Dog had gotten out today!  An hour after arriving home, the Canadian cold front arrived full strength.

80 mph gusts!  All night long the world moaned.  The whole house shook, as Lupe lay twitching as she dreamed.  Dreaming, perhaps, of a mighty American Dingo astride a lonely summit forever battered by the breeze.

On Pillar Peak, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-13-21

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 120 – Pillar Peak (2-20-15)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 122 – Bear Den Mountain, Anchor Hill, Dome Mountain & Pillar Peak (3-14-15)

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