Carolina Dog – Page 116 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mystic Lake & Saddleback Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-3-20)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-2-20, early afternoon, Gillette, Wyoming –

Well, phooey! This has been a complete waste of time. C’mon, Loop, let’s get out of here!

Disappointing, but on to bigger and better things, SPHP!

Absolutely, sweet puppy!

SPHP turned onto I-90, and the Carolina Dog was soon racing W again in the air-conditioned comfort of the G6, putting behind her more than 2 hours of futile searching for the owners of Antelope Butte (5,073 ft.). Antelope Butte wasn’t much as far as mountains go, just a little hill. Lupe could have climbed it in nothing flat.

Antelope Butte did have one claim to fame. It was one of only 19 high points in the mountainous state of Wyoming with more than 25 miles of isolation, meaning no other higher ground within a 25 mile radius.

SPHP had actually found 2 of the 4 owners of Antelope Butte, who were all members of the same family. Result? Permission unequivocally denied!

Privately owned **Antelope Butte** several miles S of Gillette, WY as seen from Hwy 59. Photo looks W.

Nothing was going to break the happy mood for long. On to bigger and better things! Lupe’s 4th Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2020 was just getting underway. The G6 hummed NW for hours. It wasn’t until the American Dingo reached Billings, MT that there was any sign of trouble.

Uh-oh! Smoke! Not again! Wyoming had been all sunny and blue. W of Billings, the smoke thickened. Lupe had come such a long way already that she might as well keep going and see what tomorrow would bring. At Columbus, SPHP left I-90, heading S on Hwy 78. S of Absarokee, a R turn on Hwy 419 to Fishtail, then following signs the rest of the way. By dusk, Loopster was at the trailhead.

9-3-20, 7:34 AM, West Rosebud trailhead – As usual first night out on a Dingo Vacation, Lupe had hardly slept a wink. Excited by the prospect of hitting the trail, she’d spent most of the night gazing out the window, watching for any sign of movement. A full moon had risen, illuminating the enormous canyon carved by West Rosebud creek.

Happily, the sky was looking much better this morning. Only a hint of smoke. Lucky! The great moment had arrived. Lupe was on her way.

Signage by the start of West Rosebud trail No. 19.

A short climb and West Rosebud trail No. 19 leveled out. This trail went up the West Rosebud creek canyon, the first major destination being Mystic Lake 3 miles from the trailhead. Lupe was up early enough to have the trail to herself at the moment. She trotted along looking for squirrels, but hearing only the hum of a hydro-electric power plant down in the valley.

Off to a reasonably early start on West Rosebud trail No. 19.

15 minutes from the trailhead, Lupe came to a curved bridge that went over a big white water pipe and a railroad track for a tram. Both started 1,000 feet higher at a surge tank way up on a steep mountainside, and swooped straight down to the hydro-electric plant in the valley. A couple of plaques told the story of this engineering marvel.

Looking up the water pipeline and tram track toward the surge tank. Photo looks W.

The hydro-electric powerhouse waiting below. Photo looks E.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe went on. The West Rosebud trail is very popular, so it was well-worn and a cinch to follow. 15 minutes beyond the curved bridge, the trail reached West Rosebud creek. Scrambling down a short steep bank, Lupe checked it out. The creek had good flow. Crystal clear water tumbled among huge, smoothed boulders in a series of small waterfalls, and gathered in deep pools.

Later in the day, this would be a fabulous spot for a picnic, or even a swim, but it was still very early, so the Carolina Dog kept going.

Heading up the **West Rosebud Creek canyon** after crossing the curved bridge.

The trail followed the gorgeous creek for only a little way before leading to another bridge. This bridge crossed West Rosebud creek. The trail then headed back into the forest. 5 minutes, and Lupe came to a sign for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Crossing the bridge over West Rosebud creek.

Entering the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Beyond the sign, the West Rosebud trail was still flat for a little while, but it soon started to climb. Lupe had already gained some elevation, but now the trail became a much more relentless upward trek. Still easy to only moderately steep. Looper continued to make good progress, but every now and then, SPHP paused for breath.

The trail was going SW toward a huge headwall at the upper end of the canyon. As Lupe got closer, the trail began switchbacking higher. The route became much rockier as the trail climbed above the forest. Views improved, and progress could now be measured relative to the big white water pipeline stretching almost horizontally along the opposite canyon wall.

Here on the SE side of the canyon, tremendous rock spires towered way up along the upper edge.

Glancing back at the big white water pipeline (L) on the opposite side of the canyon. Photo looks NNE.

Spires along the upper SE side of the West Rosebud creek canyon.

The **headwall** (Center) the trail was working toward. Photo looks SW.

The trail and the big white water pipe were both heading for Mystic Lake, but from opposite sides of the canyon. It wasn’t until Lupe was clearly somewhat higher than the water pipe that she started getting close to the headwall Mystic Lake was hidden beyond.

After passing next to several vertical rock walls, the West Rosebud trail finally curved W directly toward the headwall. However, it didn’t go far in this direction before bending back to the SW where it entered a small valley. Climbing gradually through this relatively narrow gap, the trail eventually leveled out.

At the far end of the valley, where the gap was narrowest, a strong, cool breeze blew this way as Lupe approached two large boulders the trail went between. As the American Dingo reached the boulders, she got her first look at Mystic Lake.

Making progress, clearly somewhat above the water pipeline now. Photo looks NNE.

First glimpse of **Mystic Lake** from between the boulders. Photo looks SW.

Set in a huge valley surrounded by forests and massive mountains, the deep blue waters of Mystic Lake made a stunning impression! Facing into the stiff, cool breeze coming off the lake, Lupe looked 120 feet down on a curved dam at the E end. Whitecaps could be seen in the middle of Mystic Lake, its far W end beyond vision. Magnificent!

From here, West Rosebud trail No. 19 curved sharply to the R as it began snaking almost all the way down to lake level. The trail reached Mystic Lake slightly above the rocky S shore, where it then headed W toward a pebbly beach.

**Mystic Lake** from the gap. Photo looks SW.

Starting down the switchbacks leading to the lake. Photo looks N.

By the S shore, very close to the E end. Photo looks W.

After getting past the initial rocky part of the shoreline, Lupe left the trail to venture out onto the pebbly beach. The American Dingo was the first one here this morning and had the whole place to herself, which was pretty cool. From here she could look back and see the trail winding up to the gap she had come through on top of a wall of rock at the E end of the lake.

On the pebbly beach. The gap Lupe had come through to get here is visible as the notch (slightly to the L of Lupe) on top of the rock wall beyond her. Photo looks NE.

Taking a stroll W along the shore, Lupe explored more of Mystic Lake. She didn’t go too far, just to where the shoreline curved toward the S where more of the main body of the lake was in view. At a weathered log, SPHP sat down for a bit to have some fried chicken while watching the waves roll in, but the Carolina Dog wasn’t hungry yet. Instead, she dashed off into the forest when a squirrel chattered nearby.

About as far as Loop went along the shoreline.

Looking NE back toward the dam from SPHP’s fried chicken feast log.

A pleasant half hour was spent along the shore of Mystic Lake, but that was about all SPHP thought Loop could spare. She’d gained a little over 1,000 feet of elevation getting here, but still had another 2,500 feet to go just to get to base camp. Carrying a heavy pack, SPHP was concerned about how difficult that might prove to be.

Somewhat reluctant to desert such a wonderful place so soon, Lupe left fabulous Mystic Lake heading S through the forest looking for the trail, which was some distance from the shore. She quickly ran across it, though, and turning R (SW), continued on her journey.

After 200 or 300 yards, a small clearing appeared ahead. At the same time, Loop reached a junction with a side trail on the L (S). A sign said “Phantom Creek Trail No. 17”. Without going all the way to the clearing, Lupe turned S, following No. 17 as it wound deeper into the forest.

At the start of Phantom Creek Trail No. 17.

Phantom Creek trail No. 17 wasn’t as wide as the West Rosebud trail had been, but at least it started out in good shape. A huge climb was ahead to get to where Lupe was going, and No. 17 soon began steadily gaining elevation. Switchbacks appeared. Great news! They really helped make life easier on the increasingly steep slope Loop was climbing.

15 minutes after setting out on Phantom Creek trail No. 17, Lupe reached the only significant water she would come to. A small rushing stream crossed the trail twice in rapid succession, and was never seen again. After that, any water encountered was a mere trickle, scarcely enough for Loop to get a drink.

Lupe gained several hundred feet of elevation before getting her first view of Mystic Lake from Trail No. 17 at a small break in the forest. She could see all the way to the W end of the lake from here.

First glimpse of **Mystic Lake** from Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

5 minutes later, a couple of partridges, or ptarmigans (?), were on the trail. They hung around just long enough for a photo before flying off.

The switchbacks went on and on. Most were moderately long. Although the trail was never steep, the heavy pack forced SPHP to keep pausing to gasp for breath. Views kept improving. Absolutely spectacular country!

*Wowee! This is quite the trail, isn’t it?* Photo looks S.

Lupe gained many hundreds of feet of elevation on the same enormous slope. After what seemed like a long trek, the switchbacks finally started getting shorter. Higher up the slope, it kept looking like Loop was about to come to a top, but she never did. Instead, after going around a bend, the trail suddenly straightened and headed E.

By now the forest had thinned considerably. Ahead was an encouraging sign. A bare hilltop! Apparently there actually was a limit to how much higher Looper was going to have to go.

On the straightaway. Getting up there, but still a way to go. Photo looks E.

Trail No. 17 crossed a steep drainage, then turned N. More switchbacks! Lupe kept going, zig-zagging higher. The trail finally went clear around to the N side of the mountain before starting to turn E again. By now, the views of Mystic Lake more than 2,000 feet lower were amazing! Part of Island Lake was visible beyond the W end. N of both lakes stood Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), and beyond it Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.).

*If you don’t like this, you just don’t like mountains!* **Mystic Lake** with **Island Lake** beyond. **Twin Peaks** straight past the end of Mystic Lake. **Mount Hague** (R). Photo looks WNW.

As the trail continued curving E, Lupe came to sort of a little pass. This area was all stunted pine forest, except for a small hill just N of the trail. The W end of this hill was all gravelly. Not much of a climb to get up there. Since this hill might be a last chance to look back at Mystic Lake, Loop ventured up.

Only the W half of Mystic Lake was in sight, but Loopster could see even more of Island Lake than she had been able to before. The amazing, and somewhat horrifying view, though, was of the massive ridge to the S, the same ridge Lupe was trying to get up onto. Oh, my gosh! The Carolina Dog still had a long way to go!

**Mystic Lake** and **Island Lake** from the W end of the gravelly hill. **Twin Peaks** (R). Photo looks W.

*Still a bit of a trek to get up to that ridge isn’t it?* Photo looks SW.

E of the gravelly hill, the forest gave out. Turned out that the gravelly hill had not actually been the last spot to get a good look at Mystic Lake. In fact, the primo viewpoint was an even higher grassy area way up here near the edge of a cliff. Except for a little piece at the far E end near the dam, Lupe could see almost the entire lake. Across the enormous West Rosebud Creek canyon, the top of Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) was now in sight, too!

*Even better! Don’t ya, think?* **Mystic Lake** with **Island Lake** beyond. **Twin Peaks** (R of Center), **Mount Hague** (R). Photo looks WNW.

*Top of **Mount Wood** behind me!* **Twin Peaks** (far L), **Mount Hague** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The trail kept climbing, winding its way E. Turned out Lupe didn’t have to gain as much elevation as it had seemed back at the gravelly hill. She was heading for a significantly lower part of that same massive ridge, Pass 10140, an enormous saddle that Phantom Creek trail No. 17 went over on its way to another giant canyon where Phantom Creek was.

Shortly after rounding a corner, an unmarked trail junction appeared. A side trail headed SW up a ravine here, no doubt a shortcut to Montana’s state high point, unseen Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), which was still miles away and a technical climb.

The shortcut to Granite Peak is on the R around the next bend. Photo looks SE.

*Going to **Granite Peak**? SPHP thinks you should go R here. I’m going L!* Photo looks SW.

Skipping the shortcut, Lupe continued E on Phantom Creek trail No. 17. The rate of climb was diminishing. Only 0.5 mile now to Pass 10140!

9-3-20, 2:03 PM, Pass 10140 – Suddenly Lupe was there, crossing a vast, sparsely vegetated plain. Two cowboys riding horses were coming this way. Lupe let them go by before heading over to a cairn halfway across the pass. Not the absolute high point, but close enough.

**Twin Peaks** (L), **Mount Hague** (Center), and **Mount Wood** (R) from **Pass 10140**. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Ho, ho! Loopster, we’re here! Can’t believe it! Been dreading that climb with this dang heavy pack, yet here we are. And so early, too!

We’re here? You mean this is it? We aren’t staying here, are we, SPHP?

Yes, we are! This pass is gonna be base camp. Isn’t it fabulous?

Glad you’re excited, SPHP, but I’m detecting a serious squirrel deficiency.

Squirrels, schmirrels! Sniff around some. You might find something even better than squirrels.

Better than squirrels! Like what?

Oh, I don’t know. Something more exotic, like marmots or mountain goats or grizzly bears. Anyway, I’m pooped. C’mon, let’s go find a spot to pitch your tiny house.

Several hundred feet SW of the trail was a gentle, grassy slope. Not as rocky as the rest of Pass 10140. Looper was soon resting comfortably next to her tiny house with a view of Mount Wood and Mount Hague in the distance.

Base camp at **Pass 10140**. **Mount Hague** (Center). **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks NW.

9-3-20, 4:13 PM, Pass 10140 – Lunch, and 2 hours of rest and relaxation had done wonders. The American Dingo was starting to get restless. Even SPHP felt revived. Nothing planned, but hours of daylight left.

So what now, SPHP? Do you think you’re up to it? Looks easy.

Heh. Yeah, it does. Tempting, but we probably shouldn’t, Looper. Might regret it tomorrow. Another big day coming.

Oh, c’mon! It’s not that far away! Why don’t we give it a go? Can always turn back, if it isn’t panning out. We’re here with time on our paws. If not now, when? I’ll give you a hint. Never! That’s when.

True enough. Well, let me check the topo map.

To the ENE, on the far side of Phantom Creek trail No. 17, was another big chunk of the massive ridge that Pass 10140 was part of. A big conical high point was visible over there, and the terrain leading to it did look pretty easy from here.

The topo map revealed that the cone was likely the site of the “Mystic” survey benchmark, and the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.). Loop might also be able to tag Prairieview Mountain (10,575 ft.) along the way. Not that much additional elevation gain on the day, and two 10,000 footers for the price of one! Still, round trip, it would be a good 5 miles, at least. Hmm.

Alrighty, then! Guess we did come here to climb mountains, didn’t we? Onward! Puppy, ho!

That’s the spirit, SPHP!

**Prairieview Mountain** (small knobs R of Center) and **Saddleback Mountain** (R) from **Pass 10140** base camp. Photo looks ENE.

Heading NE, Lupe crossed Phantom Creek trail No. 17, and started up a long, barren slope. Cake! A few rocks, nothing major. Fun trek. Rapid progress. Why had SPHP even hesitated? This was pure brilliance!

Approaching knobby **Prairieview Mountain**. **Saddleback Mountain summit** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The terrain got rockier. Progress slowed as Loopster scrambled past a minor talus ridge, avoiding the worst of it. Another plain beyond the talus. Scattered bushes and rocks. Still not bad. Prairieview Mountain, an elevated line of rock outcroppings bisecting the enormous ridge, was now just ahead.

Glancing back. **Froze to Death Mountain** (L). **Pass 10140** (R). Photo looks SW.

Most of Prairieview Mountain was a gently rounded ridgeline running N/S dotted with scattered bushes and boulders. However, a number of widely separated rock formations 30 to 50 feet high were strung out along the length of this ridge. These rock formations were similar to each other in that they all consisted of big mounds of large talus.

Coming up near the middle of the ridge, or maybe a bit toward the S, it was clear that the summit had to be farther N. Skipping the closest rock formation, Lupe headed for the next one.

Near the top of **Prairieview Mountain** looking for the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the next rock formation to the N, the ground became a sea of massive boulders half sunk into the mountain. Between the boulders grew a profusion of bushes that served to hide how deep the holes they occupied were. Sometimes only a few inches, other times several feet. Where possible, boulder hopping was by far the easiest mode of travel.

Climbing from the S, Loopster got near the top of this rock formation, but the stones at the very top were so massive, there was no way the Carolina Dog could get up there. Retreating, she circled around to the W hoping to find a better route. None! The W and N sides were worse.

Lupe almost made it to the top of this rock formation, but couldn’t scale the highest boulder. Photo looks N.

*Not happening, SPHP!* Same rock formation, opposite side. Photo looks S.

Hah! Didn’t matter. An even higher rock formation was now in sight a little farther N. Close to the far N end of the whole mountain, the true summit had to be over there.

Next rock formation to the N (Center). Photo looks N.

Another boulder hop over to this next jumble of talus, and Lupe once again started up the S side. Too steep! Swinging around to the W, the American Dingo managed to keep gaining elevation, but still couldn’t make it to the top. Every time it seemed like she was getting close, even higher rocks kept appearing a little farther N.

How much farther, SPHP? Can you tell?

Not really. 15 feet, 20, 30? Not at all sure the true summit is even in sight yet, Loop. Can’t be that much higher. At the moment we’re kind of stuck here, though. Practically straight up. We’re going to have to keep working our way around somehow.

Well, how bad do we really want to do this? Isn’t Saddleback Mountain more impressive? Maybe it’s easier than this one?

You might be right! Scrambling around on all this talus is just chewing up a ton of time. We’re gonna break our fool necks, too, if we’re not careful. You got pretty close to the top of Prairieview. Wanna call it, and go on to Saddleback?

Sure! Why waste daylight here, when the glittering prize is over there?

Sort of a shame. Lupe had gotten so close to the top of Prairieview! With enough patience and persistence, she probably could of done it. Oh, well! Life in the mountains. Not always one roaring success after another. A careful descent, and it was on to Saddleback Mountain, still nearly a mile E.

Abandoning **Prairieview Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

*If at first you don’t succeed, on to **Saddleback Mountain**!* (Center) Photo looks E.

Look back again, SPHP!

Huh? What for, Looper?

At Prairieview Mountain.

Oh, for pity sake!

Good thing we gave up on it!

Eh. You could have done it, Loopster. Just would have taken us forever and a day the way we were going about it.

Looking back at Prairieview Mountain, it was now perfectly clear that the true summit was a big boulder perched way over at the N end of a long talus ridge, the same pile of talus Lupe had started up from the S. She may have reached a point not an awful lot lower than where that highest rock sat before giving up, but she had still been an icky long horizontal scramble from where the true summit actually was.

*Oh, the joke’s on us! We were climbing the wrong (L) end!* **True summit of Prairieview Mountain** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Well, whatever! Focus shifted back to the problem at paw. The closer Lupe was getting to Saddleback Mountain, the rockier the upper slopes were looking. Prairieview Mountain on steroids? Hopefully not. A long, gentle N slope appeared to be the easiest approach, but it was far away. Time was ticking. SPHP headed for the S side of the mountain instead.

**Saddleback Mountain’s long N slope** (L) looked like a lovely gentle ramp to the top. SPHP led Lupe to the R. Photo looks NE.

Worked great! At first. Looper gained quite a bit of elevation on grassy S slopes, but she still had hundreds of feet to go when the talus started getting thick. Lanes of vegetation soon got choked off. The Carolina Dog was gradually forced to circle around to the W side of the mountain as she worked her way higher.

In the end, there was no escaping the talus. The last 200 feet were a slow, steep, treacherous, miserable climb, but bit by bit, Loopster was getting there.

*Miserable! What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re doing great! C’mon, pick up the pace!*

The sun was already getting low when Lupe reached a flatter region above the final steep scramble. Egads! The whole mountaintop was nothing but talus! Pretty big stuff. It all sloped gradually higher to the S, where 250 feet away a modest cairn was visible at the summit.

Success in sight, Lupe boulder-hopped her way to the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.).

Nearly there! **Cairn** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

9-3-20, 6:51 PM, Saddleback Mountain – Clouds moved in messing with the light moments before the American Dingo reached the true summit. Too bad, but that’s the way the Milkbone crumbles. The good news was that Lupe now stood next to the cairn on the highest of 3 light pink and gray boulders splotched with black lichens that together constitute the tippy top of Saddleback Mountain.

Tie game! Score: Mountains 1 – Dingoes 1.

On **Saddleback Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

The summit was right next to the S edge of the mountain. In fact, one of the three highest boulders hung halfway out in space. 360 degree views, of course! Massive ridges, deep canyons, and high peaks in all directions except to the NE where Lupe could see clear out to the plains. The air was smoky over there. Lucky that wasn’t the case up here!

To the NW was another perspective on some of the peaks Lupe had seen on the way up Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Mount Wood (12,660 ft.), Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.) and others farther W.

**Twin Peaks** (L of Center), **Mount Hague** (R of Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Beyond giant ridges, a line of higher flat-topped peaks was visible far to the SSE. Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.), which Lupe had failed to even get to with her friend Jobe Wymore last month, was somewhere over there. Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), too, which she did manage to climb.

SPHP could pick out a peak that looked like Castle Mountain. Sky Pilot would have been hidden beyond it.

The most interesting view of all, though, was to the SW. Phantom Creek and glimpses of Phantom Lake and Froze to Death Lake were visible in a deep canyon. Beyond them stood Mount Peal (12,409 ft.). Farther W, Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the state high point, soared behind Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.).

**Mount Peal** (Center) and **Granite Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Tempest Mountain** (L). **Granite Peak** (L of Center) with **Froze to Death Mountain** in front of it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe sat perched on Saddleback Mountain’s summit boulder. Not quite half an hour since she’d arrived. Saddleback had been unplanned bonus peak, but a great one. Sad to have to depart so soon. Better get down, though, before the light was gone.

*We’re leaving already? I was just getting comfortable!*

Looper had barely left the summit when the evening sun broke through the clouds. Suddenly the light was exquisite, the world transformed in an explosion of glowing color and sharp contrasts. A fleeting sublime moment. Lupe paused. What a spectacular end to a spectacular day!

Leaving **Saddleback Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Oh, but it wasn’t over yet, not by a long shot! As always, SPHP was super slow on the long, steep talus descent. Lupe wound up much farther NW than where she’d come up, the sun already long gone by the time SPHP escaped Saddleback Mountain’s tenacious grip.

Dusk deepened, and the first stars glittered, as Loop hurried SW across the plain leading to Prairieview Mountain, dodging scattered boulders and black bush-filled holes between them much of the way.

Reaching Prairieview’s ridgeline a little S of center, the flashlight had to come out. Lupe sniffed and roamed as if it were broad daylight, while SPHP stumbled almost blindly forward through infinite rocks and bushes toward the last minor talus outcroppings farther W.

Beyond them, an hour after dark, dramatic improvement. Easy terrain! A gentle downslope! To the E, a rising ghostly white moon frightened the weakest stars from the night sky. An incredible, but weary moonlit trek! Finally across Phantom Creek trail No. 17 and to the tiny house. A famished American Dingo inhaled dinner, and was gone.

Off to Dingo dreamland! Yeah, it did seem like the place to be.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

To the Froze to Death Plateau & Tempest Mountain! – Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-4-20)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Utah & Montana Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 265 – Custer Peak & Peak 6600 (2-3-21)

8:28 AM, 41ºF, start of USFS Road No. 216.1, 0.5 mile SE of Custer Peak – Bright and breezy when Lupe hopped out of the G6. Such a long time since she’d been here! Snow! Only yesterday, deadfall had been her bane on the way to Peak 5316 in the southern Black Hills. Snow was much more to the American Dingo’s liking.

Cool, clear, and breezy at the start of USFS Road No. 216.1. Photo looks WSW.

To what do I owe this great honor, SPHP?

What honor is that, Loop?

2 Black Hills Expeditions in a row. Been forever since we’ve done that!

Ahh! Easily explained. This is the last warm day before a long cold snap moves in. We’ve been spoiled! Real winter is on the way. Subzero every night! A few more days until it gets that bad, but the deterioration is supposed to start this evening with a chilly wind out of the NW. Sort of surprised at how breezy it is already.

Well, whatever the reason, I’m glad we’re here! C’mon, SPHP, I’ll race you to the top!

Heh. Might as well chalk another one up for the Carolina Dog right now. SPHP started the trudge WNW, snow crunching underpaw.

*C’mon, slowpoke!* Loopster with her usual early lead. Photo looks WNW.

This was familiar territory. Looper’s 7th ascent of Custer Peak, in fact. Want the best views in the N central Black Hills? The under 2 mile road trek up to the fire lookout tower on Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) is where to go. Dominant views of the entire region! Judging by how breezy it was down here, though, might be a gale up there today.

For nearly a mile, USFS Road No. 216.1 gradually steepened as it curved NW on the way to the saddle between Peak 6600 and Custer Peak. The E face of Peak 6600 came into sight less than halfway there. It wasn’t until Lupe got to the saddle region that she had her first really good look at Custer Peak.

**Peak 6600** comes into view early on. Photo looks WNW.

**Custer Peak** from a knoll near the saddle leading to Peak 6600. Photo looks ENE.

USFS Road No. 216.1 curved sharply SSE shortly before Lupe got to the saddle. However, No. 216.2A continued right on up to the saddle, where SPHP was surprised to see a new outhouse. New in the 4.5 years since Lupe had last been here, that is. At the saddle, No. 216.2A turned toward Custer Peak. The road would go nearly all the way to the top.

At SPHP’s insistence, Lupe paused early on the No. 216.2A trek for a good look at the NE face of Peak 6600.

**Peak 6600** from USFS Road No. 216.2A. Photo looks SW.

Didn’t take Loopster long to get to where No. 216.2A approached the base of Custer Peak. From here, the road climbed steadily, ultimately completing a clockwise circuit of the entire mountain. The views were fabulous where unobstructed, as they were most of the way up.

Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) to the NW was the most impressive sight, but the Carolina Dog was happier on the E and S sides of the mountain, where she was protected from the gusty wind which continually strengthened as she gained elevation.

Approaching **Custer Peak** on USFS Road No. 216.2A. Photo looks NE.

On the much calmer E side of the mountain. Photo looks N.

Getting close to the end of the road. **Terry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

No. 216.2A dead-ended 100 feet below the summit. Exposed to the wind, Lupe did not enjoy the path that switchbacked the rest of the way to the top. SPHP paused to examine a new plaque near the fire lookout tower, but the Carolina Dog was anxious to get out of the breeze.

Start of the short path that switchbacks to the summit. Photo looks SSW.

The new information plaque near the lookout tower.

*Come on, SPHP! Let’s get out of the wind!*

The wind wasn’t all that terrible, but SPHP had to agree that life was more pleasant on the sunny E side of the lookout tower. To Loopster’s joy, this time SPHP hadn’t forgotten to bring the chocolate coconut bars. She curled up on SPHP’s lap, inhaling her share, then munched some Taste of the Wild.

After a pleasant 10 or 15 minutes peacefully enjoying the views, it was time to brave the wind and take a few photos between major gusts.

The sunny E side of the lookout tower, where Loop and SPHP hung out for a bit. Photo looks W.

**Peak 6380** (L) in the foreground, and **Bear Butte (4,422 ft.)** (far L) in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

Terry Peak (7,064 ft.), framed between Deer Mountain (6,652 ft.) and Bald Mountain (6,617 ft.), was the big view, but Lupe could also see all the way S to Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), and W to the limestone plateau country.

**Deer Mountain** (L), **Terry Peak** (Center), and **Bald Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

One or two laps around the lookout tower was about all the American Dingo was willing to put up with. She didn’t get any respite from the wind yet, though. After descending the tower steps, SPHP searched for the Custer survey benchmarks near the N side of the foundation.

Benchmark No. 2 near the NW corner of the lookout tower points E toward another marker 10 feet away.

Lupe’s Custer Peak tour concluded with a look at the views from a short ridge SW of the tower.

**Black Elk Peak** (far L) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

**Peak 6600** (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SW.

40 minutes! After a 4.5+ year absence, hardly seemed enough to do justice to Custer Peak, but the wind wouldn’t let up, and the Carolina Dog was anxious to go. Plenty more to do today, anyway, down where the breeze wouldn’t be so stiff. Lupe started her descent leaving the summit as she’d found it, bathed in sunshine and battered by the wind.

Once back to the road, SPHP paused briefly for another look at Peak 6600, then it was on down around to the leeward side of the mountain.

You sure seem interested in Peak 6600 today, SPHP!

That’s because that’s where we’re going next!

We are? I thought we might be done with the wind and all.

The wind’s not that bad, Loop, especially down below. More adventures in store! We’re going to climb Peak 6600, since it’s got such a fabulous view of Custer Peak, then head NW a few miles to climb Peak 6480.

Peak 6480?

Yes, another 300+ foot prominence peak from Lists of John. Sort of been thinking maybe we ought to start working the 300+ foot prominence lists this year, since you’ve been to just about every named peak in the Black Hills that we can legally climb. Quite a few of them more than once. Gives us new places to explore!

I’m all for exploring, SPHP! Sounds good!

By the time Lupe got back around to the windy N side of Custer Peak, a line of gray clouds could be seen approaching from the NW.

Wonder if that’s the lead edge of the front coming in, Loop? Didn’t think it was supposed to get here until this evening. Hope the wind doesn’t get too much stronger.

Started out OK, but sure hasn’t warmed up any today, either, SPHP.

Reaching the saddle leading to Peak 6600, Lupe left the road, plunging right into the dense, snowy forest. A 260 foot climb almost due S would get her up to the 6600 foot contour at the NW end of the summit ridge.

In the snowy forest, beginning the trek up Peak 6600.

As expected, the route steadily steepened. Some rocks, some deadfall, but mostly just trees and snow. Lupe had done this once before, nearly 6 years ago, and been rewarded with a fantastic view of Custer Peak. Best one possible, in fact, since Peak 6600 was the easily the highest point anywhere close to Custer Peak, and the summit ridge had a nice rocky spot where an unobstructed view could be obtained.

*Any idea how much deeper this snow is going to get, SPHP?*

Lupe wasn’t far from the top when the forest darkened. Overhead, the sky was now a soft gray. What happened to all the sunshine? Loop was right! Felt colder out, too.

C’mon, Looper! The front must be here early! Let’s get up to where we can get a couple of nice shots of Custer Peak before the weather deteriorates any further.

Didn’t take long. A few more minutes, and Loopster was there, standing in the cold wind on the rocky viewpoint at the NW end of Peak 6600.

An hour had gone by since Lupe had left Custer Peak. What a change! Not only had all hint of sunshine utterly vanished, but a massive soft gray cloud hung low over everything. Only on the far horizon did a brighter line indicate the already distant edge of the monstrous cloud.

The rocky viewpoint at the **NW end of Peak 6600’s summit ridge**. Photo looks S.

Custer Peak was still in view, except for the top 50 or 100 feet, where fog was now streaming by. All in shadow now, instead of lovely sunshine, but nothing to be done about that.

Be ready, Loopster! As soon as the fog clears from the summit, we’ll grab a quick photo of Custer Peak before things get any worse.

Bad decision! Should have snapped one right away. The Carolina Dog was ready, but the summit didn’t clear even for an instant. Instead, the cloud suddenly swallowed the entire mountain. Moments later, even Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), far to the S, was gone.

**Black Elk Peak** (Center) dimly on the horizon, moments before it vanished, too. Photo looks SSE.

Oh, come on! Really? It’ll clear, if we have a bit of patience, Loop. Got to be a little break before too long.

Lupe seemed unconvinced, but was willing to curl up on SPHP’s lap for the warmth, if nothing else. Another chocolate coconut bar didn’t hurt a thing, either.

No break in the cloud. Peak 6600 became an island in a gray oblivion, the only place left standing in the whole world. 15 minutes ticked away. Tiny snowflakes filled the air.

OooooK! Even I can take a hint, if ya knock me over the head with a 2 x 4! Custer Peak photo isn’t happening, Loop. Wha’dya say we go in search of the true summit of Peak 6600? After that we can see about Peak 6480.

Best idea you’ve had in the last hour, SPHP! Let’s do it!

Final moments at the **NW high point of Peak 6600**. Photo looks N.

The summit ridge dipped a bit as Lupe traveled SE along it. Pines and fog hid whatever was ahead until she was almost upon it. After going several hundred feet or more, a sizable rock formation appeared. Possibly the true summit, although no telling in this fog.

Circling around to the SE, Loop found a spot where she could scramble to the top, which proved to be kind of a weird jagged area.

At the jagged-topped true summit candidate. Photo looks N.

Nope! Not the true summit. Continuing SE only a little farther, Lupe went up a slope to definitely higher terrain. The American Dingo was almost at the SE end of the summit ridge. Congratulations were in order! SPHP was almost certain the elevated line of rock Lupe had reached was the true summit of Peak 6600.

**True summit of Peak 6600**. Photo looks N.

There didn’t seem to be any reason to linger on Peak 6600, especially if Loop still hoped to get to Peak 6480 when the forecast was for steadily deteriorating conditions. A couple of minutes at the top, and Lupe was on her way down the S ridge.

Starting down **Peak 6600’s S ridge**. Photo looks S.

Not too far to USFS Road No. 216.1! The descent went well, and in less than 0.25 mile, Lupe picked the road up again a little SE of a high point. (Point 6427 on the topo map) Looper headed for it, reaching an open gate at the top in a thin fog and light snow.

At **Point 6427** on USFS Road No. 216.1. Photo looks NW.

Continuing NW on the snowy road, Lupe soon came to an intersection at a low spot. A map was posted here. SPHP took a look.

Snowmobile trail map posted along USFS Road No. 216.1.

What’s it say, SPHP?

Nothing helpful to us, Looper. It’s a large scale snowmobile trail map.

The way things are going, we’ll be needing a snowmobile before this is over.

That had a ring of truth to it. SPHP looked down at the American Dingo standing patiently on the snowy road, earnestly returning SPHP’s gaze. All around, the forest was a mystery of fog and tiny swirling flakes. Treetops swayed in the wind, releasing occasional cascades of fresh accumulations. Snowing harder. Even Loop was starting to turn white.

Not really that bad out. Barely cold enough for snow, but the temp was supposed to drop, the winds increase. Would it even be possible to find Peak 6480 in the fog? Suppose Lupe did, what then? Not going to see a thing.

What do you think, Loop?

About?

Call it, or go on? We can come back, and do Peak 6480 another time.

Awesome out here in the snowy woods, isn’t it, SPHP?

Absolutely! But possibly pointless, too. Not sure it’s worth trying to go all the way to Peak 6480. Might not recognize it, even if we find it.

Whatever you want to do, SPHP! You know I’ll be there!

Truer words never spoken. Not spoken now either, only conveyed by those completely trusting eyes. No sense in letting a friend like that catch pneumonia!

So, Expedition No. 265 came to an early end. Part success, part failure. 1.5 miles back to the G6. A beautiful time in fog and snow, enjoying winter’s silence and solitude together. (End 1:07 PM, 31ºF)

**USFS Road No. 216.1A** near Peak 6600, Black Hills of South Dakota 2-3-21

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