Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 268 – Flume Trail No. 50: Coon Hollow to Boulder Hill & Loop B (3-7-21)

7:14 AM, 42ºF, Coon Hollow trailhead off Silver Mountain Road –

Flume Trail No. 50 again, SPHP?

Yes, indeedy, Looper!  We’ll finish it up today!

With a little peakbagging on the side, I suppose?

You know it!  After all, you’ve got your reputation to think of.

At the Coon Hollow trailhead near Rockerville.

This plan met with instant approval.  And why not?  Carolina Dogs aren’t picky about outdoor adventures, as long as there are some.  Flume Trail No. 50 would be easy, and climbing a mountain or two along the way would provide a Dingo’s-eye view of the scenery.

Ready when you are! C’mon, let’s go!

Flume Trail No. 50 set out heading NW along the side of a pine-forested slope, but soon curved NE down into Rockerville Gulch.  A little stream at the bottom was covered with ice so thick it even supported SPHP.  Crossing the stream, the trail went N to a steep, rocky slope.

Entering Rockerville Gulch. Photo looks NNE.
Already, a rare steep spot along Flume Trail No. 50! Photo looks NNW.

Not much of a climb at all!  Steep, but short.  The trail didn’t even go to the top of the ridge.  Instead, halfway up, it turned E and leveled out.

Lupe could have save a bunch of distance by simply continuing N up and over the ridge, which wouldn’t have been hard at all.  Flume Trail No. 50 was going to wind around the entire E end of the ridge before turning W, but the American Dingo was here to enjoy the trail, so she stuck with it.  Didn’t take too long to get about as far E as the trail was going to go.

At the E end where the trail starts winding N. Photo looks NW.

The E end of the ridge was broad and gently sloping.  The trail curved N, and wound along it in that general direction.  Before long, Lupe reached a cut where the trail made a sharp turn W.  The cut was a sure sign she had reached part of the original 1880 Spring Creek to Rockerville flume bed that the trail was named after.

At the cut. Photo looks W.

After going through the cut, Flume Trail No. 50 wound a little farther N, before finally making a decisive turn W.  For the first time, Lupe had a distant view only partially blocked by the pines.  Mostly just forested hills no higher than where she was now, but it was something.

Beyond the cut. Photo looks NW.
First distant view. Photo looks NNE.

Storm Hill’s E ridge, a more impressive sight, came into view only a few minutes later.

Storm Hill’s E ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Heading W, Flume Trail No. 50 led to a dirt road, which apparently also served as a mountain bike trail.  On the far side of the road, some of the rock work of the old flume bed was on display.  After crossing the road, Lupe came to a particularly rocky stretch that was pretty much intact.

On the edge of the flume bed after crossing the dirt road.
An impressive rocky stretch of the 1880 flume bed. Photo looks NW.

Before long, the Flume Trail turned SW traversing fairly steep SE slopes of the Coon Hollow valley.  Still following the 1880 flume route, the trail itself remained almost perfectly level the entire time.  Soon another road could be seen down in the valley.  Just before the trail met up with it, the pine forest gave way to a grove of aspens.

Heading into Coon Hollow. Photo looks SW.
Doesn’t get much easier than this, does it? Photo looks SSW.
We’ve reached the aspens in Coon Hollow! Photo looks SW.

USFS Road No. 676 was a much better road than the first one Flume Trail No. 50 had crossed.  40 feet downhill, a brown wand and a “50” diamond on an aspen tree showed where the trail continued on the other side.

After crossing USFS Road No. 676 (R), the trail goes off to the L here. Photo looks N.

Now on the NW side of Coon Hollow, Flume Trail No. 50 headed NE.  The trail remained flat, but the hillside it was traversing was much rockier and even steeper than on the other side of the valley, almost a cliff.  In some places, parts of the old flume bed had collapsed.

On the NW side of Coon Hollow. Photo looks N.
Scenic, but don’t step off the edge! Photo looks NE.

The flume bed suddenly ended at a knob of rock.  The trail climbed 20 feet up to Air Force Vista.  An old trail system map, yellow with age, but still legible, was posted here.

Air Force Vista display.
Closer look at the relevant part of the map.

Air Force Vista wasn’t much of a viewpoint.  No doubt the trees had grown up over the years.  However, a narrow opening between the pines still provided a distant view to the NE.

So, this is it! The big view from Air Force Vista! Photo looks NE.

From Air Force Vista, the trail bent sharply SW along the side of a small, rocky ridge, and soon turned NW going over it.  Dropping back down to the old flume bed, which reappeared on the other side, the trail headed W into a side canyon off Coon Hollow.  An enormous, nearly vertical rock formation on the N side of this canyon was hard to miss.

Back to the flume bed in the canyon W of Air Force Vista. Photo looks WNW.
Impressive rock formation on the N side of the canyon.

Before long, the flume bed once again came to an abrupt end at a point overlooking a 15 foot dip into a little drainage.  The flume bed actually continued over on the N side of the canyon, but wasn’t in sight from here, and wasn’t where Flume Trail No. 50 was headed anyway.

In the drainage where the Flume Trail left the flume bed.

After crossing the dip, the Flume Trail continued W up the canyon.  Lupe passed through a woods still sporting autumn’s dead brown leaves, and came to a tiny stream where she got a cold drink.

In the autumn brown woods.

Crossing the stream, Lupe followed the trail higher.  The canyon became a gentler valley, gradually widening out as the American Dingo gained elevation.  Loop came to a sign of the style found at Air Force Vista that spoke of an old log bridge, but virtually nothing was left of it.

Heading up the valley. Photo looks W.
Approaching the “Log Bridge” sign (L of Center) in the upper valley. Photo looks SW.

In the broad upper end of the valley, the Flume Trail reached a dirt road which led almost immediately to an intersection.  The main trail headed NW from here, still climbing as a single track.  The other choice was to follow the dirt road SW up to a gently sloping saddle.

At the intersection, looking up the dirt road. Photo looks WSW.

I presume we’re climbing Boulder Hill this time, aren’t we, SPHP?

Spot on, Looper!  Take the road.

Heading for Boulder Hill! Photo looks SW.

This intersection was only 0.25 mile E of Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.), but the Flume Trail spur to the summit wrapped 0.9 mile clear around the S side of the mountain to approach it from the SW.  The first part of the spur followed the dirt road over the saddle that was already in sight.  150 yards down the other side, Lupe reached a wand and a 50 diamond marking the point where the spur left the road as a single track.

Turn R here! Photo looks SW.

The spur trail was easy going until Lupe got clear around to the SW side of the mountain.  It then turned NE directly up a grassy slope passing through open forest.  Moderately steep, but no worse than that.

Shortly before reaching another dirt road, Loop discovered an enormous squirrel tree.  An absolute giant for a ponderosa pine!  The squirrel was so high that the Carolina Dog quickly gave up barking at it as an exercise in futility.

The massive squirrel tree.

Upon reaching the road, Lupe followed it around a bend.  It promptly ended at the base of Boulder Hill’s rocky summit.  The spur trail angled off toward the S end of the summit ridge, turning N almost as soon as Loop started climbing.

At the base of Boulder Hill’s rocky summit. Photo looks NNE.

The ascent was fun!  A nice route wound among big rocks with views at every turn.

“Dingo Gap”. Photo looks E.
A rocky ramp. Photo looks N.
Close to the top. Photo looks NW.

The Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.) summit region consists of 2 separate rock platforms almost equally high separated by a minor dip 30 or 40 feet wide.  Lupe checked out the sunny S platform first, where the views were unobstructed except to the N.

Silver Mountain (5,405 ft.) and more distant Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) were the big attractions, but Storm Hill’s E ridge with the prairies of western South Dakota miles beyond it was interesting, too.

Silver Mountain (L) and Black Elk Peak (R). Photo looks SW.
Silver Mountain. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.
Black Elk Peak. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Storm Hill’s E Ridge (L of Center). Photo looks ENE.

Break time!  Before checking out the N platform, SPHP decided an apple had to go bye-bye.  Lupe wasn’t interested in that, but made certain she got her fair share when SPHP brought out a chocolate coconut bar.

Once the chocolate coconut bar was gone, Loopster was ready to move on, too.  She posed briefly atop the otherwise unremarkable rock that SPHP considered Boulder Hill’s true summit and another one at the N end of the S platform, then ventured over to the N platform.

At Boulder Hill’s scintillating true summit. Photo looks NNW.
On the N rock of the S platform. Photo looks NW.

The N platform had more trees, but fewer distant views.  With lots more of the Flume Trail to explore, Lupe didn’t stay long.  She did have a look around, though, before saying sayonara to Boulder Hill.

On Boulder Hill’s N platform. Photo looks NW.
“Boulder” survey benchmark.
The survey benchmark is visible toward the R. Photo looks SE.
A glimpse of the S platform (Center) from the N one. Photo looks SE.

Retracing her entire route along the Boulder Hill spur, Lupe returned to the intersection with the main Flume Trail.  A relatively short uphill trek got Loop to the crest of a pass to the NW.  Downhill all the way from then on for nearly 0.5 mile to the Boulder Hill trailhead.

Gotta admit that’s a mighty nice view of Black Elk Peak! Descending Boulder Hill. Photo looks SW.
Back on Flume Trail No. 50.
Heading down to the Boulder Hill trailhead. Photo looks NNW.
Arriving at the Boulder Hill trailhead.

Lupe had been here only 4 days ago.  On Expedition No. 267, she’d started her exploration of the W half of Flume Trail No. 50 from this trailhead.  First, though, she’d climbed Peak 5048 just 0.2 mile NW.

So, do I get another chocolate coconut bar, if I climb Peak 5048 again, SPHP?

I’ll split one with you, Looper!  That enticing enough?

It was.  Lupe was soon back up at Peak 5048’s best viewpoint, just a bit below the summit region’s SE high point.  After a good look at Boulder Hill, Silver Mountain, and Black Elk Peak, she continued on to the true summit to collect her share of the promised chocolate coconut bar.

Boulder Hill (far L), Silver Mountain (L of Center) and Black Elk Peak (far R) from Peak 5048. Photo looks SSW.
Alright, I’m here! Now about that chocolate coconut bar! True summit of Peak 5048. Photo looks N.
Oh, yes! It was delicious! Peak 5048 summit region. Photo looks SE.

After a brief stay on Peak 5048, Lupe went back down.  Picking up Loop B of Flume Trail No. 50 a short distance NE of the Boulder Hill trailhead, she began following it N.

On Flume Trail No. 50 again, this time on Loop B. Photo looks NNE.

Loop B (aka the Spring Creek Loop), along with Section 2 of the Flume Trail, together comprise a 4.4 mile long loop circumnavigating Peak 5048 and a hilly region to the N.  Going counter-clockwise, the first part of this loop was all super easy, mostly a stroll through ponderosa pine forests.  (Flume Trail map)

A sunny clearing NE of Peak 5048. Photo looks NNE.
Passing a rock formation. Photo looks NNW.
Typical stretch among the tall pines. Photo looks W.

For a while, the scenery didn’t change much.  20 minutes went by before the first partial semi-distant view appeared, a cliff along a hill to the E.

On a relatively sunny stretch. Photo looks NE.
Back in the shade. Photo looks W.
At last, a bit of a view! Photo looks NE.

The trail turned NW, and Storm Hill (5,192 ft.) briefly came into sight back to the SE.  Tree-broken views of other hills were soon seen ahead.  At the N end of Loop B, Lupe came to a lingering patch of snow and ice.

Storm Hill (Center). Photo looks SE.
More hills appear ahead. Photo looks NW.
About the only icy spot Lupe encountered all day. Photo looks W.

Most of Loop B followed the old Spring Creek to Rockerville flume route.  Nearly perfectly flat, the trail wound along the mountainsides for miles.  Lupe was already clear around to the NW side of the loop when a break in the trail’s continuity appeared at a rocky spot.

Looks like the flume bed might have partially collapsed here! Photo looks S.

Beyond the rocky section, Loop B made a foray SE, skirting the edges of a shallow valley W of Peak 4972.

Oh, isn’t this nice! In the valley W of Peak 4972. Photo looks WSW.

Leaving the lovely valley behind, the trail curved S.  Baker Park could be glimpsed to the W between the trees.  Lupe soon reached a fence where Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.) was in sight again.

N end of Baker Park. Photo looks WNW.
Boulder Hill reappears. Photo looks SSE.
S end of Baker Park. Peak 5040 (R). Photo looks W.

Seeing Boulder Hill again meant Lupe was close to completing Loop B.  10 more minutes, and the trail suddenly went down an embankment.

An abrupt end to the level part of Loop B. Photo looks N.

USFS Road No. 358 was at the bottom of the slope.  Loop B continued across the road, descending slightly as it headed into a small valley.  A short level stretch led to a little creek issuing from an algae-filled pond behind an earthen dam.  The tiny pond was only slightly above Loop B’s low point.  Despite the slimy algae, it was sort of a scenic spot.

Crossing USFS Road No. 358. Photo looks SSE.
Loopster arrives at the tiny pond. Photo looks S.
Actually quite pretty here, isn’t it? Photo looks SW.

After crossing the dam, Loop B made a short climb up a forested hill.  Lupe reached a junction.  This was the end of Loop B.  The Carolina Dog could now take either Section 1 of the Flume Trail W to Sheridan Lake, or Section 2 back to the Boulder Hill trailhead.

Intersection of Loop B, and Section 1 (R) or Section 2 (L). Photo looks SW.

To complete her circumnavigation of Peak 5048, Loop took Section 2.  She’d been through this area 4 days ago.  The trail went gently uphill nearly all the way.  Both Boulder Hill and Peak 5048 were in sight.

Boulder Hill (Center) from Section 2 of the Flume Trail. Photo looks SE.
A clearer view. Boulder Hill (L). Photo looks SE.
Peak 5048. Photo looks NNE.

Upon reaching the Boulder Hill trailhead again, Looper had completed her explorations of Flume Trail No. 50 for the day, but still had to go all the way back to Coon Hollow.

The Carolina Dog’s return route retraced all she’d done earlier, except that this time she didn’t take the side trip to Boulder Hill.  Instead, when she reached the pass between Boulder Hill and Storm Hill, she left the trail heading NE into the forest.

After climbing the S end of Storm Hill’s long N/S ridge, Lupe headed N for the summit.

Storm Hill summit. Photo looks E.

Chocolate coconut bar time again!  Fortunately, SPHP had one left.  The views from Storm Hill (5,192 ft.) were somewhat limited due to all the trees, but a nice level platform provided a good view to the NW.  SPHP sat facing this view with Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap.  Expectations were high!  SPHP didn’t disappoint.

The last chocolate coconut bar appeared, only to vanish.  Taste of the Wild for Lupe, and an apple for SPHP.  Plenty of water for all, too.

For a while, Lupe and SPHP gazed down on Peak 5048 and Baker Park.  Toward the horizon, plenty of other recognizable peaks out there, too.

Baker Park (far L), Peak 5048 (L) above Lupe’s rump, Peak 5171 (Center) above her shoulder. Photo looks NW.

The increasing slant of the sunlight eventually broke the mutual trance.  A quick tour of the other views available, and the American Dingo was on her way back to the pass.

Looking NE toward Rapid City with help from the telephoto lens.
Storm Hill’s E ridge (R). Photo looks E.
Storm Hill’s summit region. Lupe at the true summit. Photo looks NNW.
Traveling Storm Hill’s S ridge. Photo looks S.

Rejoining Flume Trail No. 50 at the pass leading to Boulder Hill, it was down to Air Force Vista and back to Coon Hollow.

A perfect evening!  End of a perfect day.

Well, I guess this is about it for Flume Trail No. 50, Loop!  2 consecutive Black Hills expeditions, and you’ve got it done.

Fun times, SPHP!  Nice to do something easy, for once.  Got any more trails like this for us in the future?

The Flume Trail is sort of special, Loop.  Plenty of nice long flat stretches because so much of it follows the old flume route.  The Mickelson Trail is flat, too, since it follows an old railroad grade, but perhaps we should try to finish up the parts of Deerfield Trail No. 40 and Centennial Trail No. 89 that you don’t have posts on yet?

Sounds good to me, SPHP!  You know I’m up for just about anything, as long as you don’t forget the chocolate coconut bars!  (End 5:10 PM, 52ºF)

Flume Trail No. 50, Black Hills of South Dakota, 3-7-21

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                      Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills Expedition No. 267 – Flume Trail No. 50: Boulder Hill to Sheridan Lake (3-3-21)

Flume Trail No. 50 – Map & Brochure

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The Year of Perfect Vision Strikes Again! (9-5-20 to 9-9-20)

Days 4-8 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-5-20, 9:32 AM, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains, Montana – For once, SPHP had been the one to wake up early.  After the American Dingo’s witching hour return from a hugely successful journey to the Froze to Death Plateau and Tempest Mountain yesterday, Lupe was the one still zonked in the tiny house.

As SPHP packed for the journey back to the West Rosebud trailhead, Looper snoozed as long as she could.  Not until a bee flew into the tiny house did she decide to emerge to lay on the grass, permitting SPHP to roll up her sleeping bag and begin disassembly, a task soon completed.

At Pass 10140. Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) (L). Photo looks NW.

A final contemplation of Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.), where she’d been only yesterday, and Lupe set out across the broad plain of Pass 10140.  Picking up Phantom Creek trail No. 17, she started the long trek down to Mystic Lake.

Farewell, Froze to Death Mountain (Center)! Photo looks SW.
About to head down Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

Saturday, first day of Labor Day weekend!  The weather was perfect, the single track trail in great condition, and the scenery stupendous!  Going down was so much faster and easier than coming up had been.  Upon reaching the trees, Lupe kept an eye out for squirrels.  SPHP was in a cheery mood, and often spoke to hikers on their way up.

By the time Loop made it Mystic Lake, she’d passed 18 people intent upon climbing Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the Montana state high point.

Scenic Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks SW.
Pausing for refreshment.

9-5-20, 12:16 PM, Mystic Lake – Mystic Lake was busy!  Lots of people around and more arriving all the time.  And why not?  What a jewel!

Loop and SPHP found a relatively quiet spot along the S shore.  No real rush to get back to the West Rosebud trailhead.  For a serene half hour, Lupe rested next to Mystic Lake, enjoying a cool breeze while watching the waves roll in.  SPHP sat nearby, soaking a couple of sore paws in the Oh, so refreshing! water.

Mystic Lake in the Beartooth Mountains! A new favorite place! Photo looks WNW.
Ahh! This is the life!

SPHP’s paws comfortably numb, the Carolina Dog hit West Rosebud trail No. 19.  Before heading through the gap on top of the wall of rock E of the lake, Lupe paused for a final look.  What a gorgeous mountain lake!  Easily accessible, too!  Only 3 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation gain from the West Rosebud trailhead.

Mystic Lake, Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks WSW.
Exquisite! What a setting! Photo looks WSW.

Mystic Lake was no big secret.  Hordes of people were coming up the West Rosebud trail.  Many canines to sniff with, too!  Lots of kids and people with fishing gear.  Everyone was in fine spirits.  The march down Trail No. 19 was rockier than SPHP remembered, but it all went fast.

9-5-20, 3:00 PM, 90ºF, West Rosebud trailhead – Hoo-eee!  Summer ain’t over yet!  Baking hot down here!  SPHP had noticed a picnic area during the drive in 3 days ago some miles back along the washboardy road to the trailhead.  Once all the gear got stashed in the G6, Lupe enjoyed some AC on the slow, bumpy ride to it.

Although everywhere else was overrun with people, the picnic ground was empty.  Good spot to spend the rest of the day!  West Rosebud creek, a lovely stream back up at the trail, was a full-fledged river here.  Beef stew, rest, relaxation!  Despite 91ºF heat, Lupe refused to leave her pink blankie in the G6.  SPHP rolled all the windows completely down, and gave her plenty of food and water.

Crunching away, the American Dingo complained between mouthfuls.

I can’t believe it, SPHP!  You really did have a bag of Fritos in the G6!

Told ya!

Why didn’t you bring them with when we went into the mountains?  I sure could have used them to entice those salt-starved mountain goats!

Never really considered that angle, Loop.  Besides, Fritos don’t travel well jammed into a backpack.  All we would have gotten up there with would have been some salty roasted corn flour.

Still would have worked, SPHP!  Those goats were desperate!  They lick pissed-on rocks for salt!  Do you really think they would be too fastidious to munch a little corn flour?

OK, OK!  My bad!  Next time, alright, Looper?  Can we just forget it?

Oh, I suppose.  Too late now, anyway!  Any more Fritos left?  Pass me some more, would ya?  And fill my water bowl again, too, please.

9-6-20, 6:40 AM, West Rosebud trailhead overflow parking – The sun was just rising.  SPHP immediately saw how lucky Lupe had been the past several days.  2020, the Year of Perfect Vision, had struck again!  Smoke of distant forest fires filled the air, obscuring the Beartooths.  Deja vu!  Getting to be a tiresome theme, but one likely to keep repeating unless the W got some serious rain.  Fat chance of that this time of year!

A rest and positioning day, anyway.  The Carolina Dog was done here.  Smoky or not, no sense in sticking around.  Loopster had a grand time barking at cows and horses as the G6 went on the prowl, searching for the next big adventure.  Reasonably clear skies were now the primary criteria.

9-6-20, 9:47 AM, Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, Hwy 120 – Driven out of Montana by the haze, Lupe stood on the bank of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River shortly after entering Wyoming.

This was the same river she had a favorite camping spot next to with a view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) high in the Beartooths, E of Yellowstone National Park.  Up there, it was a lively mountain stream with rapids and a chilly swimming hole, just on the verge of becoming large enough to be worthy of the designation “river”.  Down here in the sagebrush desert, the Clarks Fork was much wider, still rippling along, but also far more placid and ordinary.

Along the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Photo looks SE.
Wyoming Hwy No. 120 bridge 8 or 9 miles S of the Montana border. Photo looks N.

The Edelweiss Bar & Cafe, along with its mostly deserted campground and picnic area, was just a quick sniffing stop, a chance to get out and stretch.  Quiet today, but once upon a time this had been an exciting spot, an integral part of one of those heroic, dramatic events so common in the tragic history of the world.

In 1877, the Nez Perce tribe under Chief Joseph made a daring, desperate escape from the U.S. Army in this area.  Sadly, their success did not last.  The army caught up with them shortly before they reached the Canadian border, where they’d hope to join up with Sitting Bull’s band of Sioux.  A series of plaques at the bar’s parking lot related the story.

Less than a mile SW, Hwy 120 went over the Clarks Fork a second time.  A primitive dirt road on the R (NW) provided a less developed access point.  Why not?  Lupe had all day.  SPHP nursed the G6 along a rutty road before finding a spot to stash it near the river.

The Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone is running a little low, but after all, it is September! Would look a lot different during the spring runoff from the Beartooths!
Looks like Wyoming to me! See the Beartooths on the horizon? No? They’re in the haze.

The only thing clear about the Beartooths, which still ought to have been easily visible from here, was that they were much too smoky to entertain the notion of remaining anywhere in the general area.

Out on the sagebrush plains of Wyoming, Lupe kept a close watch as SPHP drove S, but even cattle were scarce.  Lacking entertainment, the Carolina Dog’s eyes grew heavy.   Soon she was snoozing in AC’d comfort as the miles rolled by and temperature soared.

9-6-20, 1:24 PM, Wind River Canyon, Hwy 20/789, S of Thermopolis – Not much of a water Dingo, Lupe preferred to rest on the bank of the Wind River while watching SPHP swim, but SPHP had carted her out to the white rock she sat on now for a photo.  She didn’t know it yet, but there wasn’t going to be a free ride back to shore.  Looper was going to have to wade, SPHP’s diabolical plot to force her to get thoroughly cooled off, but she wouldn’t mind.  In fact, since it wasn’t deep, she’d linger a minute or two, enjoying the cool water.

Oh, the Wind River Canyon is beautiful! Not quite so smoky, either! Maybe we’re headed the right way?

SPHP had just enjoyed a refreshing half hour swim in Rattler Whirlpool, an enormous eddy in the Wind River with a gentle current along the near bank that consistently flowed upstream, greatly reducing any prospect of being swept down river.

This was the second time Lupe had been here this summer.  SPHP had gone swimming in this exact same giant eddy back in July, too, but the name “Rattler Whirlpool” was a new one.  No one had been here when Loop first arrived today, but a Jeep had soon come down the access road, parking 40 feet away.  Whoever was in it stayed inside for a while, then suddenly leapt out to shout the news that there was a rattlesnake over there and to be careful, before leaping back in and driving off.

Neither Loop nor SPHP saw the rattler before walking back up to the G6.  Probably for the best.

9-6-20, 4:00 PM, 90ºF, Lander city park – Nearly a week into September, and still 90ºF!  Actually a little cooler now than it had been earlier.  93ºF on the way over from Riverton!  There’d been one more stop, a brief one to examine a herd of wild horses racing through the desert beneath a stormy sky – a mural painted on the Hudson town hall.

Snazzy mural on the side of the Hudson, Wyoming town hall.

Like Rattler Whirlpool, Lupe had been here before, too, this summer.  At the S end of 3rd Street right across from the beautiful Middle Popo Agie River, Lander city park was awesome!  Free camping on a soft green lawn beneath shady old cottonwoods.

The park was going to be home for the evening.  Normally, small streams flow in a couple of ditches running through the park, but they were bone dry now.  A stroll over to the Middle Popo Agie River revealed that it was almost gone as well, a trickling remnant of its normal self.  Shocking!  Lupe had never seen the Popo Agie so low before.  Fortunately, that didn’t interfere with a thrilling evening of squirrel watching.

Riveting times on the soft green lawn of Lander city park.

Unfortunately, still pretty smoky out.  Maybe tomorrow would bring good news on that front?  SPHP tried to be optimistic, but, in truth, felt mighty skeptical.  Attempts to evade smoke hadn’t worked on Looper’s last Dingo Vacation.  There wasn’t much reason to believe they would pan out this time around, either.

Labor Day, 9-7-20, 11:56 AM, Lander city park – Actually got chilly last night.  Breezy and definitely cooler this morning.  Apparently not going to be another scorcher.  Encouragingly, not quite so smoky either!  After walks through the park, Lupe had spent the morning dozing whenever there was a lull in the squirrel watching action.

Hey, Loopster!

What’s up, SPHP?

Got the trip journal caught up.  About ready for the next big adventure?

Sure!  Where we going, SPHP?

Thinking we’ll head up to the trailhead for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) here in the Wind River Range.  We were going to climb it back in July, but the access road was closed due to road construction, remember?  The repairs were supposed to wrap up back on August 20th.  Ought to be open by now.

Sounds good!  Are we leaving right away?

Yeah, in just a few minutes.  Need to make a quick stop at Safeway to pick up some supplies before we leave town.

Heading SE out of Lander on Hwy 287/28, Lupe was just getting psyched up for some much anticipated barking at cows and horses, when SPHP made a sudden U-turn.

Forget something, SPHP?

No.  Did you see that big lighted sign next to the road, Loop?

Umm.  Can’t say that I did.  Wasn’t paying much attention to signs.  What about it?

It was unbelievable!  Gotta take another look.  Maybe I read it wrong?

Making another U-turn, SPHP drove slowly past the sign again.  No doubt about it.  Alternating with a “High Fire Danger” message was another one saying “Heavy snow, poor visibility, 9PM to 6PM Tuesday”.

“9PM to 6PM Tuesday”!  That must mean they’re expecting this storm to hit at 9PM on Monday, Loop.

Today is Monday, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah, it’s Labor Day, and Labor Day is always on a Monday.

How can that sign possibly be right, SPHP?  Not even 8 hours until 9PM right now, and it’s 77ºF!

I don’t know.  A blizzard tonight?  Seems impossible.  Maybe the highway department is just testing the sign?  It was 93ºF only yesterday!

Just keep going, SPHP.  Maybe another sign will say something different?

Loopster was right!  Along Hwy 28 on the way up into the SE end of the Wind River Range, more lighted signs appeared.  All bore exactly the same message, different from the first sign’s message.  Unfortunately, not much different.

So what now, SPHP?

What now, indeed?

Sheesh!  The Year of Perfect Vision strikes again!  Sure knows how to throw us one curve ball after another, Loopster!

Are we still going to the trailhead, SPHP?  Do you think it’s wise?

Umm, no.  That’s all we need, to wake up tomorrow morning in a blizzard already snowed in at 9,400 feet, miles from the highway.  Time for Plan B, Looper!  Or maybe it’s Plan C or D by now?

What’s Plan B, or C or D, or whatever?

I’ll let you know, as soon as I think of it, sweet puppy!

SPHP kept driving right over the Wind River Range.  81ºF at Farson, but more signs bearing the same message had been seen along the way.

OK, Loop, here’s the deal!

Do tell!  I’m all ears, SPHP!

Well, not entirely, but they are pretty big.  Apparently some freak storm is moving in tonight.  I mean, who has ever heard of a blizzard on Labor Day?  We’ve never even run into one clear up in Alaska this time of year.  Anyway, this goofy storm will clear the air out, and the temperature will likely rebound within a few days.  However, if it drops a lot of new snow as expected, might be very difficult to do anything among the high peaks until some big portion of it melts, which might easily take several more days.

Logical enough, SPHP.  So what do we do about it?

Plan B, which probably makes the most sense, is to cut and run right now.  Just call it good, and head for home.  We could be there late, late tonight!  No sense hanging around here for nearly a week waiting for a blizzard to hit, and then for the snow to melt.  At least we got lucky and got to have a grand time in the Beartooths for a few days.

Pathetic!  So, our Dingo Vacation is over already?

Afraid so.

What about Plans C & D, SPHP?

Plan D, I haven’t come up with yet.  Plan C is to head S trying to out run the storm.  Maybe it won’t get past the Uinta Range, or miss it to the E?  Don’t really have anything planned down there, but we could probably come up with a few peaks to climb somewhere in Utah.

I like Plan C better, SPHP!  Can we do that?

I suppose.  If that’s what you want.  Sort of a long shot, but who knows, it might work out fantastically!  Sometimes it pays to be flexible.

If you don’t mind then, SPHP, let’s go for it!  What have we got to lose?  It’s an adventure!  Onward!  G6, ho!

Well, there was all that money wasted on fuel to lose, if Plan B didn’t pan out, but SPHP complied.  The whole situation was surrealistic.  Driving S on Hwy 191, the G6 registered 86ºF.  Fleeing snow?  Tonight?  Absurd!  Ridiculous!  The only indicator of any big change in the weather was that it was getting windy.  And off to the N, (Yes, the N!), the formerly smoky sky was turning blue.

Even if Plan B proved futile, which remained to be seen, the scenic drive was fun!  After entering Utah, SPHP briefly dropped by the visitor center at the Flaming Gorge dam.  Personnel inside confirmed that the forecast was for 2 days of snow.  Might possibly be able to do something around here tomorrow morning before it hit.

A N wind was blowing during a brief stop at Flaming Gorge reservoir, Utah.

Tomorrow morning?  That wouldn’t be enough time to accomplish much.  Onward!  The drive S continued.

Not windy S of the Uintas!  At least, not yet.  Instead, it was back to the same old problem.  At Steinaker Reservoir, N of Vernal, the air was thick with smoke.  A sickly orange-pink sun glimmered through a choking haze, it’s light reflecting on the still large, but half-withered lake.

Not looking so good, is it, SPHP? Steinaker Reservoir, N of Vernal, Utah.

Vernal was the land of Mordor, suffocating in a dense blanket of smoke.  Off to the W, though, the sky was brighter, as if there was a definite edge to the cloud.  A check of the atlas.  Hmm.  There was a Gray Head Peak (9,496 ft.) and an Indian Head Peak (9,959 ft.) shown SW of Duchesne.  Maybe Lupe could climb one of them tomorrow?

Potentially promising!  Definitely less smoke, and not so stifling hot (68ºF), when SPHP parked the G6 for the night in the Ashley National Forest SW of Duchesne.

9-8-20, 7:17 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 191, Ashley National Forest – Lupe hopped out of the G6, ready for adventure.  Sleet, borne on a cold, raw breeze!  Must have just started, only a little clinging to the G6 so far.

Well, at least the smoke is gone!

Sorry, Lupe.

Not happening, is it, SPHP?

Nope.  No way we’re going to climb Gray Head or Indian Head today.  Gotta face the music, Loop.  We could keep going, but it doesn’t make any sense.  If we go far enough to escape the storm, we’ll just run into smoke.  Umpteen fires blazing away out in California, and we’d just be getting closer to them.

Seems the Year of Perfect Vision has us cornered, doesn’t it?

In a way, but our little fiascos are nothing compared to what others have had to deal with this year.  So shake it, off Lucky Dingo!  Your summer of 2020 adventures might be over and done with, but others will be heading your way soon enough.

That last part turned out to be true enough.  Having given up on this Dingo Vacation, just getting home proved to be an adventure in itself.

9-8-20, 10:38 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 40, NW Colorado – Vernal had been a balmy 44ºF this morning as SPHP drove through it, but snow had been visible on the foothills of the Uinta Range, and dark clouds hung low obscuring the mountains.  Maybe best not to go back that way!  As a result, SPHP had kept driving E.  However, conditions had rapidly deteriorated E of Dinosaur, Colorado.

Now Lupe stood out in the gale at a “Point of Interest” 4 miles W of the little town of Maybell.  What the point of interest might pertain to was a mystery.  Signs were all plastered in snow and ice.  The Year of Perfect Vision was putting an emphatic end to any notions of “Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations”.  Substitute “winter” for “summer” and maybe Lupe would be on to something.

So much for the summer of 2020!

Craig, Colorado was in a low spot.  No snow, just rain.  Turning N, Hwy 13 climbed back into a winter wonderland.  Reaching Hwy 789, flashing lights on a sign near the Wyoming border indicated that I-80 was closed 50 miles ahead.  Through piles of slush, the G6 pressed on despite the warning, bucking a strong NW wind.  Snowing only lightly here, but 27ºF and the wind was building drifts.

I-80 was open at the junction with Hwy 789.  No problem getting onto it.  Heading E, only one lane was partially clear.  Crusty, half-frozen slush on the rest of it.  SPHP tailed several vehicles going E at 35 to 40 mph.  No traffic at all going W.  A lighted sign soon explained.  I-80 was closed at Sinclair, 16 miles ahead.

Heading E on I-80.

At Rawlins, Hwy 789/287 going N to Muddy Gap was closed, too.  With no routes open to the N or E, Lupe was stuck.  She really didn’t mind.  Half a foot of snow, 28ºF, and a frigid wind meant one thing.  About time for that cheapskate SPHP to break down and get the Carolina Dog a motel room.  Ahh, yes!  Pillows, blankets, and a big soft bed to stretch out on.  Now we’re talking!

9-9-20, 8:55 AM, 27ºF, Hwy 73 E of Baroil, Wyoming – Why on earth they had closed Hwy 789/287 yesterday was beyond SPHP.  A 10 or 12 mile long section of patches of snow and ice N of Rawlins, then the highway had been completely clear after that.  Snow in the fields, but the road was smooth and dry.

Loop was out of the G6 for a quick sniff.  Off to the NW stood an old friend, Whiskey Peak (9,225 ft.), decked out in white.  The American Dingo had been up there once, in June, 2017.  Fun to see it again.

Whiskey Peak from Hwy 73 E of Baroil. Photo looks NW.
Whiskey Peak with help from the telephoto lens.

The day warmed up.  In the 40’sºF!  Perhaps one last attempt to salvage something more from this Dingo Vacation?  Maybe Lupe could climb Mile High Hill (5,280 ft.)?  At MP 37.1 along Hwy 450 on the way to Newcastle, SPHP turned S on Lynch Road.  Good gravel for a mile to a junction with Piney Creek Road where the old Darlington School stood vacant, its last students having abandoned it countless years ago.

A pickup truck on Piney Creek Road was coming this way.  The driver turned out to be a friendly young guy who worked for the coal mine.  He’d never heard of Mile High Hill, but his phone showed the region it was in as BLM land.

However, 6 inches of snow were melting up in the Rochelle Hills, and he pronounced the remote dirt and gravel roads leading into the area a quagmire impassable to the G6.  His formerly white truck, covered in mud from wheels to roof, spoke eloquently in support of this assessment.

Oh, we’ll be back someday! Just you wait and see! Photo looks NW.

So that was it.  The last gasp, the final straw.  Smoke and blizzards!  The Year of Perfect Vision had put a screeching halt to Lupe’s summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations.  Might as well go home.  (End 3:41 PM, 54ºF)

Point of Interest, Hwy 40, 4 miles W of Maybell, Colorado, 9-8-20

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