Days 4-8 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!
9-5-20, 9:32 AM, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains, Montana – For once, SPHP had been the one to wake up early. After the American Dingo’s witching hour return from a hugely successful journey to the Froze to Death Plateau and Tempest Mountain yesterday, Lupe was the one still zonked in the tiny house.
As SPHP packed for the journey back to the West Rosebud trailhead, Looper snoozed as long as she could. Not until a bee flew into the tiny house did she decide to emerge to lay on the grass, permitting SPHP to roll up her sleeping bag and begin disassembly, a task soon completed.
A final contemplation of Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.), where she’d been only yesterday, and Lupe set out across the broad plain of Pass 10140. Picking up Phantom Creek trail No. 17, she started the long trek down to Mystic Lake.
Saturday, first day of Labor Day weekend! The weather was perfect, the single track trail in great condition, and the scenery stupendous! Going down was so much faster and easier than coming up had been. Upon reaching the trees, Lupe kept an eye out for squirrels. SPHP was in a cheery mood, and often spoke to hikers on their way up.
By the time Loop made it Mystic Lake, she’d passed 18 people intent upon climbing Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the Montana state high point.
9-5-20, 12:16 PM, Mystic Lake – Mystic Lake was busy! Lots of people around and more arriving all the time. And why not? What a jewel!
Loop and SPHP found a relatively quiet spot along the S shore. No real rush to get back to the West Rosebud trailhead. For a serene half hour, Lupe rested next to Mystic Lake, enjoying a cool breeze while watching the waves roll in. SPHP sat nearby, soaking a couple of sore paws in the Oh, so refreshing! water.
SPHP’s paws comfortably numb, the Carolina Dog hit West Rosebud trail No. 19. Before heading through the gap on top of the wall of rock E of the lake, Lupe paused for a final look. What a gorgeous mountain lake! Easily accessible, too! Only 3 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation gain from the West Rosebud trailhead.
Mystic Lake was no big secret. Hordes of people were coming up the West Rosebud trail. Many canines to sniff with, too! Lots of kids and people with fishing gear. Everyone was in fine spirits. The march down Trail No. 19 was rockier than SPHP remembered, but it all went fast.
9-5-20, 3:00 PM, 90ºF, West Rosebud trailhead – Hoo-eee! Summer ain’t over yet! Baking hot down here! SPHP had noticed a picnic area during the drive in 3 days ago some miles back along the washboardy road to the trailhead. Once all the gear got stashed in the G6, Lupe enjoyed some AC on the slow, bumpy ride to it.
Although everywhere else was overrun with people, the picnic ground was empty. Good spot to spend the rest of the day! West Rosebud creek, a lovely stream back up at the trail, was a full-fledged river here. Beef stew, rest, relaxation! Despite 91ºF heat, Lupe refused to leave her pink blankie in the G6. SPHP rolled all the windows completely down, and gave her plenty of food and water.
Crunching away, the American Dingo complained between mouthfuls.
I can’t believe it, SPHP! You really did have a bag of Fritos in the G6!
Told ya!
Why didn’t you bring them with when we went into the mountains? I sure could have used them to entice those salt-starved mountain goats!
Never really considered that angle, Loop. Besides, Fritos don’t travel well jammed into a backpack. All we would have gotten up there with would have been some salty roasted corn flour.
Still would have worked, SPHP! Those goats were desperate! They lick pissed-on rocks for salt! Do you really think they would be too fastidious to munch a little corn flour?
OK, OK! My bad! Next time, alright, Looper? Can we just forget it?
Oh, I suppose. Too late now, anyway! Any more Fritos left? Pass me some more, would ya? And fill my water bowl again, too, please.
9-6-20, 6:40 AM, West Rosebud trailhead overflow parking – The sun was just rising. SPHP immediately saw how lucky Lupe had been the past several days. 2020, the Year of Perfect Vision, had struck again! Smoke of distant forest fires filled the air, obscuring the Beartooths. Deja vu! Getting to be a tiresome theme, but one likely to keep repeating unless the W got some serious rain. Fat chance of that this time of year!
A rest and positioning day, anyway. The Carolina Dog was done here. Smoky or not, no sense in sticking around. Loopster had a grand time barking at cows and horses as the G6 went on the prowl, searching for the next big adventure. Reasonably clear skies were now the primary criteria.
9-6-20, 9:47 AM, Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, Hwy 120 – Driven out of Montana by the haze, Lupe stood on the bank of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River shortly after entering Wyoming.
This was the same river she had a favorite camping spot next to with a view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) high in the Beartooths, E of Yellowstone National Park. Up there, it was a lively mountain stream with rapids and a chilly swimming hole, just on the verge of becoming large enough to be worthy of the designation “river”. Down here in the sagebrush desert, the Clarks Fork was much wider, still rippling along, but also far more placid and ordinary.
The Edelweiss Bar & Cafe, along with its mostly deserted campground and picnic area, was just a quick sniffing stop, a chance to get out and stretch. Quiet today, but once upon a time this had been an exciting spot, an integral part of one of those heroic, dramatic events so common in the tragic history of the world.
In 1877, the Nez Perce tribe under Chief Joseph made a daring, desperate escape from the U.S. Army in this area. Sadly, their success did not last. The army caught up with them shortly before they reached the Canadian border, where they’d hope to join up with Sitting Bull’s band of Sioux. A series of plaques at the bar’s parking lot related the story.
Less than a mile SW, Hwy 120 went over the Clarks Fork a second time. A primitive dirt road on the R (NW) provided a less developed access point. Why not? Lupe had all day. SPHP nursed the G6 along a rutty road before finding a spot to stash it near the river.
The only thing clear about the Beartooths, which still ought to have been easily visible from here, was that they were much too smoky to entertain the notion of remaining anywhere in the general area.
Out on the sagebrush plains of Wyoming, Lupe kept a close watch as SPHP drove S, but even cattle were scarce. Lacking entertainment, the Carolina Dog’s eyes grew heavy. Soon she was snoozing in AC’d comfort as the miles rolled by and temperature soared.
9-6-20, 1:24 PM, Wind River Canyon, Hwy 20/789, S of Thermopolis – Not much of a water Dingo, Lupe preferred to rest on the bank of the Wind River while watching SPHP swim, but SPHP had carted her out to the white rock she sat on now for a photo. She didn’t know it yet, but there wasn’t going to be a free ride back to shore. Looper was going to have to wade, SPHP’s diabolical plot to force her to get thoroughly cooled off, but she wouldn’t mind. In fact, since it wasn’t deep, she’d linger a minute or two, enjoying the cool water.
SPHP had just enjoyed a refreshing half hour swim in Rattler Whirlpool, an enormous eddy in the Wind River with a gentle current along the near bank that consistently flowed upstream, greatly reducing any prospect of being swept down river.
This was the second time Lupe had been here this summer. SPHP had gone swimming in this exact same giant eddy back in July, too, but the name “Rattler Whirlpool” was a new one. No one had been here when Loop first arrived today, but a Jeep had soon come down the access road, parking 40 feet away. Whoever was in it stayed inside for a while, then suddenly leapt out to shout the news that there was a rattlesnake over there and to be careful, before leaping back in and driving off.
Neither Loop nor SPHP saw the rattler before walking back up to the G6. Probably for the best.
9-6-20, 4:00 PM, 90ºF, Lander city park – Nearly a week into September, and still 90ºF! Actually a little cooler now than it had been earlier. 93ºF on the way over from Riverton! There’d been one more stop, a brief one to examine a herd of wild horses racing through the desert beneath a stormy sky – a mural painted on the Hudson town hall.
Like Rattler Whirlpool, Lupe had been here before, too, this summer. At the S end of 3rd Street right across from the beautiful Middle Popo Agie River, Lander city park was awesome! Free camping on a soft green lawn beneath shady old cottonwoods.
The park was going to be home for the evening. Normally, small streams flow in a couple of ditches running through the park, but they were bone dry now. A stroll over to the Middle Popo Agie River revealed that it was almost gone as well, a trickling remnant of its normal self. Shocking! Lupe had never seen the Popo Agie so low before. Fortunately, that didn’t interfere with a thrilling evening of squirrel watching.
Unfortunately, still pretty smoky out. Maybe tomorrow would bring good news on that front? SPHP tried to be optimistic, but, in truth, felt mighty skeptical. Attempts to evade smoke hadn’t worked on Looper’s last Dingo Vacation. There wasn’t much reason to believe they would pan out this time around, either.
Labor Day, 9-7-20, 11:56 AM, Lander city park – Actually got chilly last night. Breezy and definitely cooler this morning. Apparently not going to be another scorcher. Encouragingly, not quite so smoky either! After walks through the park, Lupe had spent the morning dozing whenever there was a lull in the squirrel watching action.
Hey, Loopster!
Got the trip journal caught up. About ready for the next big adventure?
Sure! Where we going, SPHP?
Thinking we’ll head up to the trailhead for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) here in the Wind River Range. We were going to climb it back in July, but the access road was closed due to road construction, remember? The repairs were supposed to wrap up back on August 20th. Ought to be open by now.
Sounds good! Are we leaving right away?
Yeah, in just a few minutes. Need to make a quick stop at Safeway to pick up some supplies before we leave town.
Heading SE out of Lander on Hwy 287/28, Lupe was just getting psyched up for some much anticipated barking at cows and horses, when SPHP made a sudden U-turn.
Forget something, SPHP?
No. Did you see that big lighted sign next to the road, Loop?
Umm. Can’t say that I did. Wasn’t paying much attention to signs. What about it?
It was unbelievable! Gotta take another look. Maybe I read it wrong?
Making another U-turn, SPHP drove slowly past the sign again. No doubt about it. Alternating with a “High Fire Danger” message was another one saying “Heavy snow, poor visibility, 9PM to 6PM Tuesday”.
“9PM to 6PM Tuesday”! That must mean they’re expecting this storm to hit at 9PM on Monday, Loop.
Today is Monday, isn’t it, SPHP?
Yeah, it’s Labor Day, and Labor Day is always on a Monday.
How can that sign possibly be right, SPHP? Not even 8 hours until 9PM right now, and it’s 77ºF!
I don’t know. A blizzard tonight? Seems impossible. Maybe the highway department is just testing the sign? It was 93ºF only yesterday!
Just keep going, SPHP. Maybe another sign will say something different?
Loopster was right! Along Hwy 28 on the way up into the SE end of the Wind River Range, more lighted signs appeared. All bore exactly the same message, different from the first sign’s message. Unfortunately, not much different.
What now, indeed?
Sheesh! The Year of Perfect Vision strikes again! Sure knows how to throw us one curve ball after another, Loopster!
Are we still going to the trailhead, SPHP? Do you think it’s wise?
Umm, no. That’s all we need, to wake up tomorrow morning in a blizzard already snowed in at 9,400 feet, miles from the highway. Time for Plan B, Looper! Or maybe it’s Plan C or D by now?
What’s Plan B, or C or D, or whatever?
I’ll let you know, as soon as I think of it, sweet puppy!
SPHP kept driving right over the Wind River Range. 81ºF at Farson, but more signs bearing the same message had been seen along the way.
OK, Loop, here’s the deal!
Do tell! I’m all ears, SPHP!
Well, not entirely, but they are pretty big. Apparently some freak storm is moving in tonight. I mean, who has ever heard of a blizzard on Labor Day? We’ve never even run into one clear up in Alaska this time of year. Anyway, this goofy storm will clear the air out, and the temperature will likely rebound within a few days. However, if it drops a lot of new snow as expected, might be very difficult to do anything among the high peaks until some big portion of it melts, which might easily take several more days.
Logical enough, SPHP. So what do we do about it?
Plan B, which probably makes the most sense, is to cut and run right now. Just call it good, and head for home. We could be there late, late tonight! No sense hanging around here for nearly a week waiting for a blizzard to hit, and then for the snow to melt. At least we got lucky and got to have a grand time in the Beartooths for a few days.
Pathetic! So, our Dingo Vacation is over already?
Afraid so.
What about Plans C & D, SPHP?
Plan D, I haven’t come up with yet. Plan C is to head S trying to out run the storm. Maybe it won’t get past the Uinta Range, or miss it to the E? Don’t really have anything planned down there, but we could probably come up with a few peaks to climb somewhere in Utah.
I like Plan C better, SPHP! Can we do that?
I suppose. If that’s what you want. Sort of a long shot, but who knows, it might work out fantastically! Sometimes it pays to be flexible.
If you don’t mind then, SPHP, let’s go for it! What have we got to lose? It’s an adventure! Onward! G6, ho!
Well, there was all that money wasted on fuel to lose, if Plan B didn’t pan out, but SPHP complied. The whole situation was surrealistic. Driving S on Hwy 191, the G6 registered 86ºF. Fleeing snow? Tonight? Absurd! Ridiculous! The only indicator of any big change in the weather was that it was getting windy. And off to the N, (Yes, the N!), the formerly smoky sky was turning blue.
Even if Plan B proved futile, which remained to be seen, the scenic drive was fun! After entering Utah, SPHP briefly dropped by the visitor center at the Flaming Gorge dam. Personnel inside confirmed that the forecast was for 2 days of snow. Might possibly be able to do something around here tomorrow morning before it hit.
Tomorrow morning? That wouldn’t be enough time to accomplish much. Onward! The drive S continued.
Not windy S of the Uintas! At least, not yet. Instead, it was back to the same old problem. At Steinaker Reservoir, N of Vernal, the air was thick with smoke. A sickly orange-pink sun glimmered through a choking haze, it’s light reflecting on the still large, but half-withered lake.
Vernal was the land of Mordor, suffocating in a dense blanket of smoke. Off to the W, though, the sky was brighter, as if there was a definite edge to the cloud. A check of the atlas. Hmm. There was a Gray Head Peak (9,496 ft.) and an Indian Head Peak (9,959 ft.) shown SW of Duchesne. Maybe Lupe could climb one of them tomorrow?
Potentially promising! Definitely less smoke, and not so stifling hot (68ºF), when SPHP parked the G6 for the night in the Ashley National Forest SW of Duchesne.
9-8-20, 7:17 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 191, Ashley National Forest – Lupe hopped out of the G6, ready for adventure. Sleet, borne on a cold, raw breeze! Must have just started, only a little clinging to the G6 so far.
Sorry, Lupe.
Not happening, is it, SPHP?
Nope. No way we’re going to climb Gray Head or Indian Head today. Gotta face the music, Loop. We could keep going, but it doesn’t make any sense. If we go far enough to escape the storm, we’ll just run into smoke. Umpteen fires blazing away out in California, and we’d just be getting closer to them.
Seems the Year of Perfect Vision has us cornered, doesn’t it?
In a way, but our little fiascos are nothing compared to what others have had to deal with this year. So shake it, off Lucky Dingo! Your summer of 2020 adventures might be over and done with, but others will be heading your way soon enough.
That last part turned out to be true enough. Having given up on this Dingo Vacation, just getting home proved to be an adventure in itself.
9-8-20, 10:38 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 40, NW Colorado – Vernal had been a balmy 44ºF this morning as SPHP drove through it, but snow had been visible on the foothills of the Uinta Range, and dark clouds hung low obscuring the mountains. Maybe best not to go back that way! As a result, SPHP had kept driving E. However, conditions had rapidly deteriorated E of Dinosaur, Colorado.
Now Lupe stood out in the gale at a “Point of Interest” 4 miles W of the little town of Maybell. What the point of interest might pertain to was a mystery. Signs were all plastered in snow and ice. The Year of Perfect Vision was putting an emphatic end to any notions of “Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations”. Substitute “winter” for “summer” and maybe Lupe would be on to something.
Craig, Colorado was in a low spot. No snow, just rain. Turning N, Hwy 13 climbed back into a winter wonderland. Reaching Hwy 789, flashing lights on a sign near the Wyoming border indicated that I-80 was closed 50 miles ahead. Through piles of slush, the G6 pressed on despite the warning, bucking a strong NW wind. Snowing only lightly here, but 27ºF and the wind was building drifts.
I-80 was open at the junction with Hwy 789. No problem getting onto it. Heading E, only one lane was partially clear. Crusty, half-frozen slush on the rest of it. SPHP tailed several vehicles going E at 35 to 40 mph. No traffic at all going W. A lighted sign soon explained. I-80 was closed at Sinclair, 16 miles ahead.
At Rawlins, Hwy 789/287 going N to Muddy Gap was closed, too. With no routes open to the N or E, Lupe was stuck. She really didn’t mind. Half a foot of snow, 28ºF, and a frigid wind meant one thing. About time for that cheapskate SPHP to break down and get the Carolina Dog a motel room. Ahh, yes! Pillows, blankets, and a big soft bed to stretch out on. Now we’re talking!
9-9-20, 8:55 AM, 27ºF, Hwy 73 E of Baroil, Wyoming – Why on earth they had closed Hwy 789/287 yesterday was beyond SPHP. A 10 or 12 mile long section of patches of snow and ice N of Rawlins, then the highway had been completely clear after that. Snow in the fields, but the road was smooth and dry.
Loop was out of the G6 for a quick sniff. Off to the NW stood an old friend, Whiskey Peak (9,225 ft.), decked out in white. The American Dingo had been up there once, in June, 2017. Fun to see it again.
The day warmed up. In the 40’sºF! Perhaps one last attempt to salvage something more from this Dingo Vacation? Maybe Lupe could climb Mile High Hill (5,280 ft.)? At MP 37.1 along Hwy 450 on the way to Newcastle, SPHP turned S on Lynch Road. Good gravel for a mile to a junction with Piney Creek Road where the old Darlington School stood vacant, its last students having abandoned it countless years ago.
A pickup truck on Piney Creek Road was coming this way. The driver turned out to be a friendly young guy who worked for the coal mine. He’d never heard of Mile High Hill, but his phone showed the region it was in as BLM land.
However, 6 inches of snow were melting up in the Rochelle Hills, and he pronounced the remote dirt and gravel roads leading into the area a quagmire impassable to the G6. His formerly white truck, covered in mud from wheels to roof, spoke eloquently in support of this assessment.
So that was it. The last gasp, the final straw. Smoke and blizzards! The Year of Perfect Vision had put a screeching halt to Lupe’s summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations. Might as well go home. (End 3:41 PM, 54ºF)
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