Day 30, Part 1, of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska
No Dingoes allowed! Extraordinarily disappointing, but the place was swarming with tourists. Park rangers patrolled near the nature center at the start of the trail. Signs banning American Dingoes were prominently displayed. There wasn’t going to be any getting around this one. Lupe couldn’t go. Time to break out Plan B.
The day had started out well enough, with sunny skies full of promise. A gorgeous drive from the Mystery Hills almost all the way to Seward had taken up the morning. Lupe enjoyed beef stew for breakfast along clear, rushing Ptarmigan Creek. Now here she was, all ready for her next big adventure.
That big adventure was supposed to have been a hike from the Exit Glacier Nature Center along the Harding Icefield Trail all the way to the end. Lupe would have had a sweeping view of the 700 square mile Harding Icefield, the largest icefield entirely within the United States. Now it was clear that wasn’t going to happen.
What SPHP hadn’t realized was that the Exit Glacier and Harding Icefield are in Kenai Fjords National Park. Since US National Parks are forbidden territory for Carolina Dogs, Lupe’s Harding Icefield adventure was over before it started. At least Lupe had gotten to see the Exit Glacier from a distance on the way to the nature center.
Fortunately, there actually was a Plan B. Lupe could go to Tonsina Point on Resurrection Bay! Compared to the Harding Icefield Trail, Plan B wasn’t too ambitious, but maybe that was OK. Yesterday, Lupe had a big adventure in the Mystery Hills involving more than 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Perhaps an easy day was for the best.
SPHP drove back along Herman Leirer Road (the road to the Exit Glacier) to mile 3 on the Seward Highway, turned S, and drove all the way through Seward to a “T” at the end of the highway at the S end of town.
A right turn took Lupe to a gravel road perched slightly above the W shore of Resurrection Bay. The dusty road went S for 3 miles to Lowell Point, where it curved to the E. There was private property in Lowell Point, and signage didn’t mention Tonsina Point. Which way? SPHP had no clue, but stayed on the same road.
The road made another turn to the S. Happily, it soon ended at a trailhead. (Note: $5.00 daily parking fee). A path could be seen leading from the parking lot to Resurrection Bay, only a short distance away. This must be it! SPHP parked the G6 (12:48 PM, 72°F), and Lupe got out. Lupe and SPHP took the short path to Resurrection Bay.
The temperature was in the low 70’s °F, no doubt a warm day in Alaska, but SPHP was surprised to see Lupe had arrived at a public beach. Even more surprising was that a few hardy Alaskans were actually in the water. Resurrection Bay is an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. Streams and rivers pour glacial meltwaters into it. How warm could it be? Those Alaskans must be tough! Neither Lupe nor SPHP was tempted to take a dip.
Ixnay on the swimming, but a little sunbathing might be enjoyable. The beach certainly had a wonderful view of Resurrection Bay and the surrounding mountains, many of which still had snow or even small glaciers visible on them. Offshore, a small island rose dramatically from the bay. A large bird was perched up on top. It looked like it might be an eagle.
The camera’s telephoto lens revealed the truth. The big bird actually was an eagle – a bald eagle!
While SPHP wouldn’t have minded dozing and sunbathing on the beach at Lowell Point for a little while, the truth is, American Dingoes aren’t much into that sort of thing. Lupe wanted action! So Lupe and SPHP headed SW toward the end of the beach, where SPHP expected to find the trail to Tonsina Point.
The beach ended at a very steep forested embankment coming all the way down to the sea. No sign of a trail anywhere. Puzzling. SPHP finally concluded it was best to return to the trailhead for information on the trail’s location.
As it turned out, there were two trailheads, the one the G6 was parked at near the beach, and another trailhead for the Caines Head State Recreation Area. The second trailhead was only a short hike away up a hill. The trail to Tonsina Point starts from there. Lupe and SPHP left the G6 parked where it was, taking a muddy trail through an amazing forest up to the second trailhead.
Note: The Caines Head State Recreation Area trailhead has its own parking lot at the end of a short road (a R turn to the S) off the Lowell Point road from Seward. There was a sign for it, but SPHP hadn’t made the turn since the sign didn’t mention Tonsina Point. The same $5.00 daily parking fee applies here.
A sign at the upper trailhead showed a map of Caines Head State Recreation Area. The trail to Tonsina Point is only the first short section of a much longer trail to destinations near Caines Head. Lupe was only going as far as Tonsina Point. Beyond Tonsina Point, parts of the trail are flooded and impassable at high tide, possibly forcing an overnight stay waiting for low tide.
The trail going S to Tonsina Point and beyond started as a single track at the parking lot, but soon merged with a road leading to private properties, which seemed a bit weird. Farther on, it left the private road, continuing as a 5 or 6 foot wide trail improved with a layer of fine slate gray gravel.
All the way to Tonsina Point, the trail went through a thick forest providing not even a glimpse of Resurrection Bay. Tiny streams flowed next to the trail in some places, providing Lupe with fresh, cold water. The trail was relatively busy on this warm day in August, though it was a ghost town compared to the crowds Lupe had seen at the Exit Glacier.
After leaving the private road, the trail climbed steadily at an easy pace, ultimately gaining about 200 feet of elevation. The trail then became more primitive and switchbacked down a considerably steeper slope. At the bottom of the switchbacks, Lupe arrived at an arched bridge over Tonsina Creek.
From the bridge, Lupe had a great view downstream of Tonsina Creek emptying into nearby Resurrection Bay.
Once across the bridge, Lupe left the main trail to follow a path toward Resurrection Bay, stopping briefly to wade in Tonsina Creek along the way. Salmon could be seen swimming in the creek. Signs near the main trail indicated fishing for them was prohibited.
Lupe had arrived at Tonsina Point, the big delta formed by Tonsina Creek where it reaches Resurrection Bay. Being a delta, the whole area was flat. Away from the ocean, above the high tide mark, bright green grasses and other plants flourished in luxurious profusion. The tidal plain close to Resurrection Bay was all sand, mud and small stones. Seagulls congregated near the edge of the water.
When Lupe arrived, the tide was at least partially out, exposing a large stretch of tidal plain beyond the onshore vegetation. Lupe went way out near the water’s edge to check out the impressive views of Resurrection Bay and surrounding mountains.
Several old tree trunks, bleached white by the sun, were washed up near the high tide mark. People were using them as benches, from which they had great views of Resurrection Bay while relaxing and having lunch. That seemed like a good idea, so Lupe and SPHP headed over there to join them. On the way, Lupe found something on the beach which greatly interested her.
At the bleached tree trunks, SPHP took a break and had a bite to eat. Lupe wasn’t tired or hungry. She met a dog named Pinecone, and spent her time enticing Pinecone to play with her, at which she was partially successful.
After SPHP’s break, Lupe continued her exploration of Tonsina Point’s tidal plain, working her way around toward the S. A very large piece of driftwood with many branches was stranded out there all by itself. Lupe sniffed around it, and decided it made a good, scenic platform for her next couple shots of Resurrection Bay.
Near the S end of Tonsina Point, Lupe’s advance was blocked by another channel of Tonsina Creek. The main trail crossed this channel at a 2nd bridge located farther inland. Lupe went over to the 2nd bridge, but did not cross it.
At Tonsina Point, Lupe had only seen a small portion of Caines Head State Recreation Area. The main trail continues S beyond the 2nd bridge for miles leading to more trails, an old fort, various facilities, and lots more beautiful views. No doubt it was all worth further exploration, however, the tide was starting to come in. At high tide, parts of the trail S of Tonsina Point are under water.
Lupe and SPHP were not prepared to spend the night camping out, if Lupe got cut off from Tonsina Point by high tide. So Lupe took the main trail back N through a lovely forest to the 1st bridge over Tonsina Creek.
Lupe’s time at beautiful Tonsina Point was over. She had only scratched the surface of what there is to see at Caines Head State Recreation area, but Tonsina Point had been an easy, fun excursion. Lupe returned to the G6 happy with her Tonsina Point experience (3:47 PM).
Before leaving the gorgeous Seward area, Lupe played tourist in town. She dropped by a park where a statue featuring a prospector and his dog commemorates Alaska’s pioneering spirit, and the Iditarod National Historic Trail, which goes all the way from Seward to Nome. Lupe shares Alaska’s pioneering spirit. She was certain the statue could be improved by the addition of an American Dingo.
Lupe was enthused. She was all for setting out on the 958 mile long Iditarod Trail, but SPHP just doesn’t have quite the same degree of Alaskan pioneering spirit and chickened out.
Well, fine. Lupe had another idea. How about something less pioneery, and more decadently luxurious? There was a big, comfy ship in town that looked like it could take Lupe and SPHP to Nome in grand style by sea. American Dingoes love being pampered, too, you know!
SPHP had to admit the cruise ship was beautiful and would be a lot of fun, but whined piteously something negative about a budget. Most disappointing, but Lupe finally did manage to negotiate a consolation deal.
After a stop at Safeway, Lupe left Seward in the G6, perched in comfort high up on her blankets and pillows, heading N on a wonderful scenic drive along the Seward Highway while sharing ice cream sandwiches and chips with SPHP. Before the day was over, she was going to get to go through a long, long tunnel and take the trail to Portage Pass to see the Portage Glacier.
Of course, that’s another adventure for another post.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Caines Head State Recreation Area
Lowell Point State Recreation Site
Resurrection Bay Brochure & Map
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.