2017 Yukon & Alaska – Page 9 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

3:12 AM, 36°F – Already seems like there’s a bit of light. Lupe was out of her blankie. Pulled it back over her. Keep the puppy warm! Too early. Back to sleep.

4:18 AM, 35°F – Definitely light out now, but the whole world is densely fogged over. Maybe a ground fog like the morning after Lupe climbed Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)? If so, it may burn away, but the weak Arctic Sun will take hours to do so. Meanwhile, nothing to do but sleep.

5:35 AM, 35°F – Except for the patch of boreal tundra right here, the whole world is invisible. Misting lightly. Loop went out. Everything’s cold and wet. She’s back in the G6 licking herself off. Have to wait for the fog to lift. Maybe Lupe’s next Dingo Vacation should be to some place with palm trees?

*Okay … so what are we thinking here, SPHP? Cause I’m thinking it’s back under the blankie time!*

8:48 AM, 38°F – The weakling sun has managed to make some progress against the fog. Can see 0.5 mile now. Shared a can of chili and a can of beef and barley soup with Looper. She’s back to dozing.

10:18 AM, 39°F – Sunshine on the hills. Visibility is a few miles. A patch of blue sky is off to the NW. Loopster still conked out! A small knoll exists out on the North Slope maybe 0.25 mile away. It’s lower than where the G6 is, but a bit higher than what’s around it. Should make a decent objective for Lupe’s farthest point N ever. Guess it’s time for her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

View of the first high ridge on the N side of the **Brooks Range** from the S edge of the **North Slope**. (Area near Dalton Highway milepost 278.) Photo looks SSE.

Loopster still catching some Z’s in the G6. She must really have been tired!

Daylight in the swamps, Loop!

Hmm? You mean get up? Can we even see the swamps yet, SPHP?

Yes, we actually can. Time for your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

Stroll to the North Slope Knoll? What’s that supposed to mean?

Off to the N or NW from here, I see a little rise, a knoll, only slightly above the surrounding terrain. It’s not far at all. We’re going to start what’s left of this morning off with a quick stroll over there. The knoll isn’t even as high as where we are now. Super easy. We’ll be back before you know it.

Oh! A little romp on the North Slope tundra? Sounds like fun to me! Any particular reason we’re doing this? It’s not much like you to want to go to a knoll, SPHP.

Yes, there is a reason. There’s a good chance that knoll is going to wind up being as far N as you and I will ever be in our whole lives. Remember your 2016 Last Mile North trek, which we did again only yesterday? This is like that, except the updated 2017 version of it. Out here on the North Slope just beyond the Brooks Range, you are 71 miles farther N than last year’s record.

So we aren’t going any farther N than this? Yesterday evening you were practically a nutcase about the North Slope!

Oh, I’ve thought about it a lot. If you could take the Arctic Ocean tour, we’d go for sure, but Dingoes aren’t allowed. I don’t think there’s much in the way of mountains we could climb between here and the ocean either. At least I don’t know of any. So maybe it doesn’t make sense to go any farther than this, though I am curious. Galbraith Lake and Lake Benchmark Mountain are as far N as I’d planned for us to go, so this is probably it. We are already a few miles N of both of them.

I see. So we’re just going to take this short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, oooh and aaah a bit looking at whatever we can see of the North Slope from there, then turn around and come right back?

Eh, yeah, guess that’s about the size of it. So, come on, let’s do it. We have bigger fish to fry after your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, too.

The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was a marvelous journey! Learned something right away. Where the tundra was yellow and gold, the ground was boggy and wet. Where reddish and pale green plants were dominant, small rocks and drier, firmer footing existed. The tundra had way more yellow and gold on offer than reds and pale greens, but SPHP found ways to link up the reds and greens sufficiently to avoid getting wet feet. Lupe sniffed and played wherever she pleased, unconcerned by such trifles as wet paws.

Lupe stands near the start of a long stretch of reds and pale greens leading toward the nearly imperceptible **North Slope Knoll** she was heading for. Photo looks NW.

The tundra also harbored large mushrooms, many more than half a foot in diameter. They weren’t super common, but it wasn’t necessary to look long before finding one, either.

The tundra harbored large mushrooms, often half a foot in diameter.

The North Slope Knoll turned out to be more like 0.33 mile from the G6, not 0.25 mile. Even so, the strange, incredible sensation of walking as far N as one ever would was over all too soon.

The knoll wasn’t all that perceptible even standing there right on it. The rise was almost a figment of SPHP’s imagination, amounting to little more than a short ridge only a few feet high. This was it, though. Likely as far N in the world as Lupe and SPHP would ever be.

A patch of green next to a barely medium-sized rock seemed to be as high as anything else. That rock would do. It could be the official endpoint of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Naturally, congratulations were in order. SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, praising her for reaching the North Slope of Alaska beyond the Brooks Range.

The views of the North Slope were beautiful. Rolling tundra, small lakes, big hills. In the distance, small mountains. All empty and pristine, as if humanity’s teeming billions didn’t exist. The world looking as it always had for eons, yet for how much longer? A blink of an eye? A depressing thought, but only SPHP’s. To the American Dingo the world looked as it should, completely normal.

*Completely normal? Oh, I don’t know about that, SPHP! The **North Slope** is pretty and vast and empty enough, but is in desperate need of more squirrels!* Photo looks N.

On the patch of green at the end of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Photo looks NW.

Looper at the **North Slope Knoll**, as far N as she had ever been. She’s broken her old 2016 record by 71 miles here.

Looking back from the North Slope Knoll toward the Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline. The G6 is a mere dark spec on the R. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 energized and enthusiastic! (10:58 AM, 40°F) The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, though short, had been an amazing, fun experience to remember always. Now it was time for Lupe to make an attempt on Lake Benchmark Mountain, the mountain at the far N end of the Brooks Range she had come so far to climb.

Feeling sad, SPHP drove S on the Dalton Highway. If the sky would clear up for a little while this afternoon, Lupe should have a tremendous view of Alaska’s North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain. However, she would never again actually be out on the North Slope, and as far N as she had just been at the little knoll.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway on her way S again. She hasn’t gotten far yet. **Galbraith Lake** is in view. Photo looks S.

The Galbraith Lake airport is beyond **Lake 2660** on the L. Photo looks SW from the Dalton Highway.

After crossing the bridge over the Atigun River, SPHP parked the G6 at a large parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway. Lupe would start for Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) from here. (11:32 AM, 42°F)

Lupe at the parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway just S of the Atigun River. SPHP mistakenly believed Lake Benchmark Mountain was the high distant ridge seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks N.

Lupe started out by crossing the Dalton Highway bridge back over to the N bank of the Atigun River. She continued N on the highway to a side road that went E to the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Following the oil pipeline service road is always fun and easy! Lupe had a good time racing around on the tundra nearby, while SPHP stuck to the road going N.

Looper on the Dalton Highway bridge over the **Atigun River**. **Peak 5308** is at Center. Photo looks E.

Loopster having a blast on the Alaska oil pipeline service road. Soon she would have to leave it to climb the big ridge on the R. Photo looks N.

A crow wonders what a Carolina Dog is doing way up here at the N end of the Brooks Range?

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline head off to the NW. Alaska’s North Slope is only a few miles away. Photo looks N.

A beautiful, high rounded ridge was NE of the Alaska oil pipeline. That ridge was the way to Lake Benchmark Mountain. After 0.5 mile, Lupe and SPHP left the pipeline service road to start climbing. The lower and upper slopes of the ridge were spongy, boggy, and full of tussocks. Only the steepest part of the ridge was relatively dry. Lupe followed a long ravine containing a small stream as she climbed NE.

Loop enjoys fresh bog water shortly after leaving the oil pipeline service road.

At the base of the beautiful rounded ridge Lupe was about to climb. The ridge proved to be surprisingly wet territory except where it was steepest. Photo looks ENE.

SPHP marched steadily upward while Lupe ran happily exploring the wide open spaces. Once in a while, the Carolina Dog roamed so far away she was completely out of sight. SPHP had to call her back then lest she decide the life of the wild Dingo was for her. Meanwhile, the views of Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River back to the S and W were becoming increasingly impressive.

After a good climb, Lupe has a terrific view back toward the **Atigun River valley**. Photo looks S.

Lupe went on beyond the end of the stream. The slope of the ridge was gradually diminishing, but Lupe never came to any definite ridgeline. She was wandering up an enormous slope that kept going higher. The whole place was spongy, boggy tundra, full of tussocks.

A big hill was ahead at the far N end of the ridge. SPHP believed this hill was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it, but wanted to get a view of the territory E of here in order to confirm that opinion. Although Loop went NE for what seemed like a long way, she never did get to a viewpoint. She just kept going higher and higher.

Ahead was a big hill that SPHP believed was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it. Efforts to get a view of what was E (R) of here failed. The slope just kept going gradually higher and higher that way. Photo looks N.

Before Lupe got high enough to see anything to the E, clouds and fog blew in out of the W. Hopefully they were temporary phenomena. Looper was looking forward to a glorious panoramic view of the North Slope from the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The fog made it certain Lupe wasn’t going to be able to get a view to the E now. She gave up on that idea, and headed straight for the big hill at the end of the ridge.

With fog starting to roll in, SPHP decided maybe Lupe ought to head straight for the big hill. Photo looks NNW.

Fog completely took over. The hill Lupe was heading for disappeared. So did everything else except immediately surrounding terrain. SPHP used occasional large isolated boulders to help keep Loop aimed in the right direction, sighting along them to the next boulder the American Dingo should head for.

Lupe reached the base of the hill, and began to climb more steeply. She went up a series of rocky ramps and benches. Although Lupe still came to patches of vegetation, overall this was much firmer ground free of the bogs and tussocks present lower down on the big ridge. SPHP had a far easier time here, despite the greater angle of ascent.

Loop keeps going up the rocky ramps despite the fog.

*Fog is getting thicker, SPHP! … I see that Loop. It’s about the only thing I see besides you.*

Partway up the hill, Lupe came to a level area where there was more vegetation again. By now a cold rain had started in. Suddenly Loop wasn’t having as much fun as before.

SPHP started becoming concerned about what little could be seen. A substantial cliff dropped into a gray abyss along the NE side of this level area. According to the topo map, it shouldn’t have been there. It most certainly was, though. To the NW, the hill went still higher, but nothing at all could be seen to the E except more fog.

Partway up, Lupe stumbles onto a flat spot with more vegetation again. To the NW, the hill rose still higher, but to the E there was a cliff on the NE side of the hill. According to the topo map, that cliff shouldn’t have been there. Photo looks NW.

That cliff was bothersome. It couldn’t be reconciled with the topo map at all, if Lupe was actually on her way up Lake Benchmark Mountain. SPHP was beginning to suspect maybe Lupe was too far W. Who could tell, though, in this rain and fog?

May as well check out the rest of the hill to the NW. Lupe climbed two higher ridges. She wasn’t at the top of anything significant yet. All she could see was another two even higher ridges farther up the slope. The highest ridge was shaped vaguely like what Lake Benchmark Mountain’s summit ought to look like, but hardly any detail could be seen. How much higher was it? SPHP guessed maybe 500 or 600 vertical feet.

The rain, which had slackened up for a little bit, now turned to snow. The snow wasn’t sticking yet, but added to SPHP’s growing sense of uneasiness. Lupe wasn’t uneasy. She was just getting plain old wet, cold and miserable.

Wandering around up on mountains at the N end of Alaska’s Brooks Range in rain and snow with almost no visibility? Maybe this was getting just a little too stupid. SPHP asked Loopster if she wanted to go back to the G6? The American Dingo gave her most ecstatic, enthusiastic response possible.

A bitter defeat, but there seemed to be no sensible alternative. Dang weather, anyway! How long had it been since Lupe had seen a truly sunny day now? Seemed like forever ago. Every day it was dodging clouds and rain. Lupe and SPHP headed WSW, starting back down.

Loop on a huge rock shortly after starting down. Photo looks NW.

I hate to give up, but we can’t see a thing. It’s raining or snowing all the time so I’m cold and soaking wet, and SPHP doesn’t seem to have a clue where we are. Under the circumstances a meal and a warm blankie back at the G6 is sounding mighty good to me! I mean, what would you do?

Lupe hadn’t lost much elevation yet when suddenly a break appeared in the clouds. Galbraith Lake was in sight! Out came the topo map for comparison with the lake to try to get reoriented again. SPHP quickly became convinced Lupe wasn’t on Lake Benchmark Mountain at all. She was somewhere on the upper S slopes of Peak 4700! She was indeed a mile too far W, as SPHP had begun to suspect a while back.

While SPHP was still pondering the implications of this discovery, the sky cleared off to the NW, too. Lupe could clearly see several high points over that way. Another review of the topo map convinced SPHP that Peak 4700 was really the next peak over to the WNW. In that case, Lupe actually was somewhere on Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The views disappeared again as another batch of clouds plunged the hill Lupe was on back into fog. Still, the brief break in the weather had been encouraging. Maybe conditions were beginning to improve? The hasty decision to return to the G6 was rescinded. Lupe and SPHP set off back up whatever hill or mountain this was.

The climb to the top wasn’t nearly as far as the fog had made it seem. After gaining only 200 to 250 feet of elevation, Lupe was approaching a line of boulders on what appeared to be part of a summit ridge. Looper scrambled up a gap between boulders. A survey pin could be seen only 20 feet away to the E! Hopes soared that maybe Lupe had just stumbled upon Lake Benchmark?

No, there wasn’t a benchmark, just a survey pin. Looper and SPHP searched the tops of the highest boulders along the ridgeline. Nothing. The top of the survey pin was clearly stamped “Coronary Apsoo No. 4”. Clear alright. Clear as mud. Meant absolutely nothing to SPHP. It may as well have been Chinese.

Lupe relaxes near Coronary Apsoo No. 4 (Center), while SPHP draws a blank as to what it meant. The obvious next step was to go to the higher point seen through the fog. Photo looks NE?

*Oh, of course I know what Coronary Apsoo No. 4 means! Who doesn’t? I’m just seeing if you know, SPHP. Come on, figure it out!*

Apparently Coronary Apsoo No. 4 meant “Go to the obviously higher point so close by that you can even see it through the fog, dummy!” Nothing else really sprang to mind. So after drawing a blank by this first survey pin, Lupe and SPHP headed NE on a short easy ridge walk to a noticeably higher point nearby.

The next high point appeared to be the top of the mountain. The summit area wasn’t huge but was plenty big enough to wander around a bit. No survey benchmark could be found up here, either, only another survey pin stamped with an equally cryptic message.

Lupe must be at the top of either Lake Benchmark Mountain or Peak 4700, but which was it? Lupe stood in the rain while SPHP tried to work it out. A slightly lower narrow rock ridge was in view to the E or SE, but didn’t look nearly large enough or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. A short distance to the N was a subpeak nearly as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t look right either.

In mist and fog Lupe stands at the top of the mountain. The question was, which mountain was it? The narrow, slightly lower rock ridge seen in the fog beyond Loop didn’t appear nearly large or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. Photo looks ESE?

Not too far to the N was a subpeak almost as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t match up with what the topo map showed for Lake Benchmark Mountain, either. Photo looks N.

On a sunny day, there wouldn’t have been any question where Lupe was. It appeared more and more that she might well be at the top of Peak 4700. However, if this was actually Lake Benchmark Mountain, there ought to be a “Lake” survey benchmark back somewhere along the line of boulders near the first Coronary Apsoo No. 4 survey pin. Looper returned to the pin and once more searched diligently along the line of boulders. Nothing.

One last thing to try. Loop and SPHP returned to the mountain’s summit, then continued over to the N subpeak. Nope. Not a thing here either. So this was almost certainly Peak 4700. Due to the fog, Lupe had climbed the wrong mountain!

The heavy mist turned to snow. Sheesh! Better head down.

Lupe lost 200 feet of elevation. The snow quit again. Already it wasn’t as foggy as higher up. Maybe Looper should angle SE hoping to catch a glimpse of Lake Benchmark Mountain? Seemed like a reasonable course of action.

On the way down **Peak 4700**, the mountain Lupe had no intention of climbing, but did. Photo looks N.

Going down the ramps and benches, Lupe started to discern the faint foggy outline of some big hill off to the E. Lake Benchmark Mountain? Seemed like it had to be. The Carolina Dog reached the fairly level area she had been to on the way up Peak 4700. She headed E near the cliff to the NE. Yes! No mistake. Lake Benchmark Mountain was in view!

The big hill at Center is the W end of **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Photo looks E.

Wow, there was still a pretty big elevation drop between here and there! At least it wasn’t as foggy out as earlier. The really good news was that what could be seen of Lake Benchmark Mountain looked climbable. Just a really big, fairly steep hill, but no worse than that.

Now or never! By the time Looper had worked her way down Peak 4700’s long SE ridge to a wide boggy flats leading to Lake Benchmark Mountain, she had lost 600 feet of elevation. She would have to regain it all plus another 200 feet to reach Lake Benchmark’s summit.

The climb was definitely steeper than Peak 4700 had been. The lower slope was easy. As things became steeper, lanes of vegetation leading up scree covered slopes helped. Lupe eventually reached areas of nothing but scree. Fortunately she had already regained a ton of elevation by then.

Starting up the W end of **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Easy down here, just a big hill! Photo looks NE.

Higher up on the scree slopes looking back at **Peak 4700**, which Lupe had just climbed in the fog by mistake. Photo looks W.

By the time the slope of the mountain moderated, Lupe was pretty high. She was back into fog, and it was snowing. The snow was starting to stick. A series of wide, relatively level areas covered with vegetation ran roughly E/W in long strips. These strips of land were separated by minor slopes or ridges, which presented walls of rock or lines of boulders in some areas, although it was always possible to go around them.

Lupe followed each of these vegetated bands some distance E before turning N and climbing up to the next one. The climbs were short and never difficult.

Loopster fairly high up on the W end of Lake Benchmark Mountain now. She’s near the start of the E/W bands of vegetation separated by ridges where there was more rock. The bands to the N were higher than those to the S. Photo looks NNE.

Loop on another strip of vegetation with a typical rock wall providing separation from the next higher band beyond it. Photo looks NE.

After crossing several of these vegetated bands and climbing to higher ones, Lupe was faced with a more formidable, longer wall of rock. Was that the summit ridge? It certainly seemed possible. The Carolina Dog traveled E below the wall of rock until she reached a place where it was possible to scramble up. Nope. Not the summit. Off to the NE was an even higher rounded hill.

Lupe could get up on that rounded hill easily enough! She went right to it and was soon on top. Poking around a collection of rocks at the high point revealed nothing. Then suddenly, there it was! Lower down, a little farther E, some sort of survey marker was sticking up from a loosely assembled modest cairn. Was it true? Was that it?

Oh, yeah! This was it! Lupe had found the really, truly, genuine Lake Benchmark. Celebration time!

A wet Dingo stands next to the authentic Lake Benchmark.

*All I can say is, thank heavens it’s not stamped Coronary Apsoo No. 5!* Loop next to the Lake Benchmark (lower R). Photo looks W.

Although finding the Lake Benchmark was cause for joy and undeniable proof that Lupe was actually on the right mountain this time around, the survey benchmark was not quite at the top of the mountain. The topo map showed an elevation of 4,928 feet here. However, it also showed a small area within a 5,000 foot contour not too far away to the E.

If Lupe wanted to claim a peakbagging success, she needed to go find that higher ground where the true summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain had to be. After going through all this miserable weather and climbing the wrong mountain, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood most certainly did want to claim a peakbagging success here, too! Whether she could see anything or not!

So after congratulations and a brief celebration at the actual Lake survey benchmark, Lupe and SPHP headed E along a relatively narrow level ridge looking for the summit.

Joy turned to dismay. Loop hadn’t gone far, when up ahead, ghostly rock formations appeared in the fog. They looked potentially unclimbable for the American Dingo.

Lupe hadn’t gone far from the Lake survey benchmark when she saw a potentially unclimbable rock formation ahead. No!!! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP’s fears were unjustified. Lupe reached the summit area to find massive boulders and a wall of rock, but open lanes existed providing her an easy scramble to the top. And just like that, Lupe was there, perched at the undeniable summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)! Oh, happy day!

*Could maybe have picked a better day for this, SPHP! The mighty, spectacular, sweeping view of the North Slope from here isn’t all it’s been cracked up to be!*

The summit was a knob of rock perhaps 20 feet long and 5 feet wide. The S side of this knob was a solid rock wall 6 to 8 feet high next to a level patch of tundra. To the N, the knob sloped steeply away toward a chasm of undetermined depth. Of course, standing up there in light rain and fog, Lupe could see none of the glorious view of the North Slope that she had come so far to see, and would have had on a clear day.

Lupe astride the true summit. Most of the summit knob is seen here. Photo looks NW.

Lake Benchmark Mountain was a grand peakbagging success for the Carolina Dog, but a complete scenic fail. That really was a shame, since Lake Benchmark Mountain was likely destined to be the northernmost peak Loopster would ever climb in her whole life, and the views ought to have been spectacular.

Lupe thinking deeply profound Dingo thoughts about the significance of being way up here in N Alaska at the top of this fabulous mountain in the Brooks Range.

*Hey, SPHP! I was just thinking, since the views are a total bust, did you bring anything to eat?*

At least Loop had gotten to see the North Slope this morning on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Better yet, yesterday evening she had arrived at a fantastic, magical moment to see it for the first time ever when there was rain and sunshine and rainbows and a sea of gold out there. Still would have been fantastic to see the North Slope from up here, but that’s the way it goes.

With no views, and no real hope of seeing them anytime today, there wasn’t much point in hanging around up here in the chilly rain for long. Shaking her cold, wet paw and trying to make her achievement sound as grand as possible, SPHP congratulated Lupe on her Dingo persistence and ultimate success in getting to the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain. Lupe loved the attention, but looked rather miserable.

Lupe was ready to go. A mere 10 minutes after arriving, Lupe and SPHP began the descent. By the ghostly rocks, Loop paused for a final look back.

Looking back at the ghostly summit. Photo looks ENE.

Leaving **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Photo looks ENE.

The rocky apparitions vanished from sight almost as soon as Lupe left them. She would never see them again.

Going back down the bands again was pretty easy. SPHP had built a cairn on the way up to help mark the route, but Loop didn’t come across it. It started snowing again for a little while, but turned to rain lower down on the steeper scree slopes.

For 10 minutes, the clouds lifted a bit. Lupe could see the Atigun River 2,000 feet lower at the bottom of a deep valley to the S. Off to the SW, where it was still foggy, the fog had a strange brownish tinge. It looked like smoke. Smoke? How could that possibly be? SPHP puzzled for a moment or two, before the fog thinned.

That wasn’t smoke! That was the golden boggy tundra way down there on the big ridge Lupe had come up at the start. Loop was going the right way. She was heading straight for it.

Lupe reaches the low ground W of Lake Benchmark Mountain. **Peak 4700** is in fog ahead. Lupe wasn’t going there again. She went SSW (L) instead. Photo looks WNW.

The fog returned. The big boggy ridge seemed endless. It rained the whole time. For a while, Lupe trudged along sopping wet and depressed at SPHP’s heels. Finally, something caught her interest. The Carolina Dog was off like a shot. Despite the rain, she ran great distances. Loop was having fun again! She ran and sniffed the rest of the way.

At last, Lupe was far enough down to get below the clouds. Galbraith Lake came back into view. The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were down there, too.

Near the end of a long wet march along the huge boggy ridge, **Galbraith Lake** came into view again. Photo looks SW.

Getting there! The **S end of Galbraith Lake** is in view. Lupe still needed to get back down to the **Atigun River** (far L), but that wouldn’t take too long. Photo looks SSW.

Wouldn’t be too long now before Looper was warm and dry, snoozing snugly beneath her blankie with a full belly. Lupe never would see that glorious view of the North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain, but she had been up there. She had stood at the very top of a mountain at the N end of the Brooks Range in northern Alaska. Not many Dingoes can say that. (7:29 PM)

On Lake Benchmark Mountain, N end of the Brooks Range in Northern Alaska 8-19-17

Links:

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Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham

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Beyond the Mountain of the Midnight Sun – Atigun Pass, Galbraith Lake & the Edge of the North Slope (8-18-17)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:02 AM, 37°F – The sky had been almost clear before sunset. SPHP expected to wake to blue skies. No such luck. Nothing but gray overhead. Lupe was famished. She gobbled down generous helpings of Alpo and Taste of the Wild before going back to sleep. The Carolina Dog was still exhausted after yesterday’s Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) adventure. SPHP worked on the trip journal while rain showers came and went.

10:15 AM – Loop was awake again. Not raining now. Scattered patches of blue could even be seen. May as well hit the road. Lupe and SPHP left Cathedral Mountain heading N on the Dalton Highway.

As it turned out, Coldfoot (milepost 175) was only half a dozen miles away. SPHP gassed up the G6. Only $4.599 per gallon! Same as last year, and a bargain compared to the $5.50 per gallon they wanted back at the Yukon River. Be grateful for what you can get in the Arctic. Especially when they’re practically giving it away!

25 miles N of Coldfoot was a thrilling sight. Sukakpak Mountain was dead ahead! Lupe had climbed Sukakpak in 2016. As far as SPHP was concerned, Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) had been one of her most memorable adventures ever!

**Sukakpak Mountain** came into view 25 miles N of Coldfoot. The beautiful mountain was a thrilling sight! In 2016 Lupe had one of her most memorable adventures ever on Sukakpak. Photo looks NE.

A repeat of Lupe’s 2016 Sukakpak Mountain adventure would have been great fun, but the weather was just too iffy for that. Too little blue sky, and too many rain showers around. A huge effort that might easily wind up totally socked in and wet didn’t seem worth the risk.

Although Lupe and SPHP would have enjoyed a repeat of last year’s exploits up on **Sukakpak Mountain**, the weather seemed too iffy today. Too many rain showers around and not enough blue sky. Photo looks NE.

Lupe along the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River with **Sukakpak Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

However, there was an easy adventure near Sukakpak Mountain that Lupe and SPHP would both love to do again. This part of the Brooks Range was the farthest N Lupe had ever been. In 2016, Lupe had gone on her Last Mile North adventure. This involved only a relatively short walk along the Alaska oil pipeline to a creek N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), then W to its nearby confluence with the Dietrich River.

From that confluence, Lupe had seen a mysterious dark mountain 10 miles farther N. She had seen it the day before from the top of Sukakpak Mountain, too. Not knowing its real name, or if Lupe would ever in her whole life be this far N again, SPHP had named that dark mountain the Mountain of the Midnight Sun.

Both to commemorate last year’s achievement getting so far N in the Brooks Range, and to celebrate her return, Lupe was going to repeat her Last Mile North trek to see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again. Upon return, Loop was then going to go farther N than she had ever been before, exploring new territory and shattering her old record.

It was raining again when SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the W side of the Dalton Highway right before the bridge over the Dietrich River shortly before noon. After a bite to eat, and finishing catching up the trip journal while Loop napped, the rain was over. Still overcast and cool, but conditions were fine for the Last Mile North trek. SPHP donned a jacket and the rain poncho, and Lupe was underway. (1:01 PM)

The morning’s inactivity and early afternoon nap had done Lupe a lot of good. She was ready for action again! She crossed the bridge over the Dietrich River continuing N to milepost 207 on the Dalton Highway. In 2016, a small pullout slightly N of this point was as far N as the G6 had made it. Milepost 207 was exactly halfway along the 414 mile trip on the Dalton Highway from Livengood to Deadhorse at Prudhoe Bay.

Lupe crosses the bridge over the **Dietrich River**. **Sukakpak Mountain** is on the R. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe visits milepost 207, the halfway point on the Dalton Highway. Milepost 207 is as far N as the G6 made it in 2016, and is just N of the Dietrich River. **Dillon Mountain** is in the background. Photo looks E.

Near milepost 207, Lupe took a short gravel access road W to the service road along the Alaska oil pipeline. Here, SPHP turned N following the service road.

Following the Alaska oil pipeline N was fabulous! For once, a nice level hike. Better yet, one surrounded by wonderful, remote mountains way up here in the unspoiled Brooks Range of N Alaska. It was an incredible feeling. And as much as SPHP liked this place, Lupe adored it. Her enthusiasm was boundless! The Carolina Dog ran, and ran, and ran.

Lupe repeating one of her easiest and favorite adventures of 2016, her Last Mile North trek along the Alaska oil pipeline W of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NE.

Looper spent nearly all of her time out of sight in the bushes and forests just off the pipeline service road. She raced back and forth across the road as the mood struck her. Periodically she suddenly appeared a great distance away, and would streak back along the service road to check on SPHP’s progress. Her joy could be measured by the size of that huge pink tongue dangling from her open mouth.

Lupe on the oil pipeline service road coming back to check on SPHP. Photo looks N.

Looking back at **Sukakpak Mountain**. Photo looks S.

After following the Alaska oil pipeline a little more than a mile N, Lupe reached a creek flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain. A huge area gets washed out by this creek when water levels are much higher in late spring and early summer. Now the creek was quite low, and occupied only a small portion of its rocky riverbed.

Lupe reaches the wide rocky stream bed now only partially occupied by the stream flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.

The sun had come out. Lupe must have been hot. She drank deeply from the clear, cold creek. She plunked herself right down in the water numerous times. The current was so strong some places that it swept her downstream. Looper didn’t seem to care. The water wasn’t deep. She could get out whenever she pleased.

*This Last Mile N adventure is just the best, isn’t it SPHP? I’m so glad we came back!* Photo looks E.

*Hey, SPHP! We could stay right here the rest of my Dingo Vacation and do this every day! Great idea, aye?*

Loopster cools off in one of the stream’s main channels. This stream flows W to the Dietrich River from N of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NE.

*Oh, yeah! My case of hot paws is cured!*

Lupe and SPHP followed the creek downstream toward its confluence with the Dietrich River about 0.33 mile W of the Alaska oil pipeline. When the stream moved to its far S bank, SPHP was forced up into forest and stands of tall bushes. This slowed SPHP’s progress down a great deal. Meanwhile, Loopster returned to the forest to resume her free roaming adventures. SPHP had to call her back periodically so she didn’t wander too far away.

Approaching the confluence with the **Dietrich River** (coming in from the R). The mountain on the L is **Peak 4363**. Photo looks WNW.

Suddenly Lupe was there, back at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream she’d been following. This was the farthest N Lupe had ever been. A year and four days ago, she had been here. Off to the N, Lupe could see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again. The top of the mountain was hidden by clouds.

Lupe in the clear stream she has been following W from the Alaska oil pipeline near its confluence with the much larger **Dietrich River**. The **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** is in the distance on the R. Photo looks N.

The top of the **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (R) is hidden by clouds. It felt wonderful, natural, and strange all at the same time to be seeing this view again. Photo looks N.

Once again, a year and 4 days after the only other time she’d ever been here, Lupe stands at the confluence of the clear creek and the **Dietrich River**. The **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (Center) is partially obscured by clouds. This was as far N as Lupe had ever been in her whole life. It was wonderful to be back! Photo looks N.

Being back here was an emotional experience. When Lupe had left this place last year, it was with a feeling that she would probably never ever be here to see this fabulous view and the mysterious Mountain of the Midnight Sun again, it was so far N and so far from home. Yet here she was, only a little over a year later. And Lupe had returned as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! Being here seemed both so familiar and so natural, yet at the same time strange and incredibly remote again. It was wonderful to be back!

This time was going to be different, though. The plan SPHP had eventually put together for Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation was that she would indeed return to the Yukon & Alaska. Lupe would come back here, to this very spot, but this time she would go even farther. Lupe was going to continue N beyond Atigun Pass, crossing the spine of the mighty Brooks Range. She was going to see Galbraith Lake beyond the end of the mountains, and climb Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) where she would have a tremendous view of the North Slope of Alaska.

Yes, Lupe was going to see that distant far N land beyond Alaska’s last mountain range! The Carolina Dog would get to see the North Slope’s vast empty boreal tundra extending beyond vision to the Arctic Ocean at the top of the world.

SPHP had learned something since Lupe had last been here. For many months after Lupe returned home from her 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP had purposely not looked at the topo maps to see if they showed a real name for the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Finally though, SPHP did look. Yes, the maps did show a name. The Mountain of the Midnight Sun’s real name was Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.).

The topo maps confirmed one other thing. SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun if she ever returned, but feared that the mountain was probably too difficult. The topo maps concurred. It wasn’t likely SPHP would be able to climb such a rugged peak, which meant Lupe never would either. Still, Lupe could drop by for a look at the mountain today when she went by it heading N. A slim chance still existed an ascent might look feasible.

Lupe and SPHP lingered at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream a while. Loop relaxed on exposed riverbed next to the river, while SPHP pondered this place and this moment. For more than a year, this had been the farthest N Looper and SPHP had ever been. For more than a year, it had been a dream, at first only faintly held, to come back some day. Now, after today, this hike and this confluence would no longer be Lupe’s last mile N. However, it would forever be a special place. The Carolina Dog and SPHP both loved being here.

Lupe relaxes on exposed riverbed next to the **Dietrich River** with **Sukakpak Mountain** in the distance. Photo looks S.

The long dreamed of moment passed. Lupe was ready. Time for action! New adventures, glorious ones, were ahead! First things first, though. The American Dingo was eager to relive all the great fun of coming here on the way back to the G6 again.

The forest rang with the shrill, excited barking of the Happiest Dingo on earth. Lupe sped through the forests following whatever secret paths her nose led her to. She didn’t waste a single minute. It was another grand time for both Loop and SPHP, and like all grand times, over too soon. There seemed to be little doubt that Lupe would have rated the past two hours the very best of her entire Dingo Vacation so far.

*Oh, yeah! I got to enjoy this bliss all over again. Am I the luckiest Dingo on earth, or what?* **Sukakpak Mountain** dead ahead. Photo looks S.

Back at the **Dietrich River** again with only the bridge to cross to get back to the G6. **Sukakpak Mountain** in the background. Photo looks S.

**Sukakpak Mountain** in the **Brooks Range** from the **Dietrich River**. Photo looks S.

The sun was out. The temperature had soared to 66°F by the time Lupe reached the G6. (3:06 PM) This was a rare opportunity to dry some things out on the roof. Lupe rested in the shade, listening to the rippling Dietrich River with a beautiful view of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), still the northernmost mountain Lupe had ever climbed.

While wet stuff dried on the roof of the G6, Lupe rested nearby in the shade listening to the **Dietrich River** with a view of **Dillon Mountain**, still the northernmost mountain she had ever climbed. Photo looks E.

Rain showers were visible not too far away the whole time. The sunny half hour ended as clouds returned. At least some things had dried off. SPHP took everything off the roof of the G6 and put it all away. It was time. (3:45 PM, 59°F)

Come on, Loopster! Our time’s up here.

Oh, are we really going N now? Farther than ever before?

Yes ma’am. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is going to see some territory she’s never seen before. With a title like that, it’s almost an obligation for you to explore more of the Arctic, you know.

Are we going to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun?

We’ll see. Probably not. Don’t think it’s anything we can do, but we’ll stop and take a look just in case. It’s not that far away from here. At least you will get to see your Mountain of the Midnight Sun up close.

And then what?

Well, we’ll have a beautiful drive through the Brooks Range along the Dietrich River valley. Eventually we’ll get to another mountain Richard Carey wrote a trip report about on Peakbagger.com. He hasn’t steered us wrong yet. I’m hoping you’ll be able to climb it.

What mountain is that, SPHP?

Table Mountain. We should be able to see it from the Chandalar Shelf.

Table Mountain? Sounds kind of boring. Plenty of Table Mountains, but there’s never a Chair Mountain, is there? Chandalar Shelf sounds sort of exotic, though. I like it here, but I suppose you’re right, as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I ought to explore more of the Arctic. It would be hard to explain to the rest of the sisters, if I didn’t.

Clever, Loop, but actually you have climbed a chair mountain. Remember Kings Throne Peak near Kathleen Lake back in the Yukon? A throne is a fancy chair.

Oh, I never thought of that, SPHP.

The Dalton Highway’s beautiful pavement ended even before Lupe reached milepost 210 a couple miles N of Dillon Mountain. That was a shame. The highway was now mud, gravel, and potholes. Only a few miles farther, as Lupe was nearing the Mountain of the Midnight Sun, SPHP saw an impressive view of Dillon Mountain in the rear view mirror. It was worth a quick stop.

Lupe near milepost 213. Her **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (R) is only a few miles away now. Unfortunately, the Dalton Highway has already reverted to mud and gravel. Photo looks NNW.

An impressive view of **Dillon Mountain** from milepost 213 of the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe reached the Mountain of the Midnight Sun at milepost 216. A glance told the story. It was a great mountain, but SPHP wasn’t prepared to tackle anything like that. Despite the mountain having been a dream goal for over a year, Loop and SPHP paused only briefly before continuing on.

The summit of the **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** is hidden in the clouds somewhere to the R, perhaps off the edge of this photo. SPHP could tell at a glance that this just wasn’t happening for Lupe. Disappointing, but not unexpected. Photo looks NE.

The drive up the Dietrich River valley was as beautiful as SPHP had promised it would be. The Dalton Highway eventually left the river, climbing fairly steeply up the side of a ridge. Near the top, the road curved to the R. A broad plain flanked by mountains came into view ahead. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout on the R (milepost 237). Lupe had reached the Chandalar Shelf.

Clouds prevailed over most of the sky, but Lupe stood in weak sunshine when she got out of the G6 for a look. (6:00 PM) The Chandalar Shelf was gorgeous! A treeless tundra of colorful low bushes stretched away for miles. The flanking mountains were dark beneath the clouds, but weren’t rough or particularly high.

Loopster arrives at the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was in view more than 4 miles S of the pullout. Though the summit was partially obscured by clouds, and looked like it might have a dusting of new snow on it, SPHP was excited to see that Table Mountain looked like an eminently climbable peak for Lupe!

It was much too late, and weather conditions weren’t right anyway, to consider an ascent today. If she stuck around, Lupe could climb Table Mountain tomorrow, though, if the weather would cooperate. If Loop stayed here overnight, she could get an early start in the morning.

Beyond the **Chandalar Shelf**, the summit of **Table Mountain** (R of Center) is partially obscured by clouds. SPHP could see enough to tell that Lupe ought to be able to climb **Table Mountain** easily enough, if the weather would cooperate. Photo looks S.

Lupe was interested in making a brief foray out onto the Chandalar Shelf. It seemed like a good idea. Loop and SPHP quickly learned that the ground was soggier than expected. When the time came, the best route to Table Mountain across the Chandalar Shelf would likely be on the highest terrain possible. Fortunately, this was pretty much the most direct line to the mountain, anyway.

Lupe makes a brief foray out onto the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Lupe discovered this faint set of vehicle tracks heading straight for **Table Mountain**. When the time came to climb the mountain, she intended to start out for it this way. Photo looks S.

Perhaps Lupe and SPHP should have stayed at the Chandalar Shelf overnight. Then Lupe might have climbed Table Mountain the next day, but the prospect of seeing new territory made continuing on exciting and attractive. The Arctic stays light a long time, even in mid-August. Lupe had hours of daylight left. Besides, she would eventually have to return this way. She could climb Table Mountain then.

Looking back at **Table Mountain** (L) as Lupe continues N on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was only a few miles beyond the Chandalar Shelf when it became apparent that the Dalton Highway would soon start climbing to Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.). The road was wet, soft, and slick, and the tops of the mountains here were definitely sporting new snow. What would the road be like? Could the G6 even make it to Atigun Pass?

Lupe on the Dalton Highway only a few miles N of the Chandalar Shelf. The highway would soon start its ascent of Atigun Pass. Photo looks NNE.

The Dalton Highway starts up to Atigun Pass ahead on the R. Photo looks NNW.

18th of August, and the mountaintops were sporting a dusting of new snow. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

The climb up to Atigun Pass initially seemed daunting. The road was steep, wet and slick. A light rain was falling, and the possibility of snow on the road ahead was worrisome. However, the G6 was doing fine.

The Dalton Highway climbs to the R toward Atigun Pass. Doesn’t look scary from here. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway partway up to Atigun Pass. So far, so good. Photo looks NE.

Looking back down. The G6 was doing fine despite the wet road. Photo looks SW.

The top of Atigun Pass (milepost 245) was only 2.5 miles from the big curve where the Dalton Highway began gaining elevation in earnest. Despite initial trepidation, the ascent had gone quickly and smoothly. The pass was 38°F when Lupe arrived. There was a huge pullout on the E side of the highway. Sadly, and rather surprisingly, Loop found no commemorative sign of any kind.

Lupe arrives at **Atigun Pass** for her first time ever to find 38°F weather on August 18th, light rain, a huge wet pullout, and no commemorative Atigun Pass sign of any kind.

Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.) is the high point of the Dalton Highway, and on the continental divide along the spine of the Brooks Range. S of the pass, water drains W to the Bering Sea, part of the North Pacific Ocean. N of the pass, water flows N to the Arctic Ocean.

As geographically significant as Atigun Pass might be, it didn’t take a Carolina Dog long to conclude her inspection of cloudy mountains, cool damp weather, and a muddy parking lot. After a few minutes, Loop was ready to go see whatever was N of the pass.

The drive down the N side of the Brooks Range was fascinating! For a couple of miles, the Dalton Highway seemed steeper here than it had been S of Atigun Pass. The road wound around making big curves along the sides of the mountains. Up high, a heavy mist was coming down. Fog drifted among mountains capped with new snow, most summits hidden in the clouds.

SPHP drove slowly so Lupe could take it all in. The American Dingo stopped a couple of times on the way down, too, just to better appreciate being N of Atigun Pass for the first time ever.

Lupe on a little side road just off the Dalton Highway. Wow! Here she was, N of Atigun Pass in the **Brooks Range**!

Though it would have been fun to see these mountains in bright sunshine, the chill mist and fog only added to the sense of mystery and remote solitude.

Looking up at the new snow on the mountaintops, SPHP was struck by the notion that maybe Lupe shouldn’t stay too long N of Atigun Pass. It wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable to the G6, and apparently it was already autumn here in mid-August!

After a couple of miles of steep, wide turns, Lupe could see she was now down close to where the road’s grade was about to moderate. The Dalton Highway was heading into a long valley. Small streams by the road were some of the headwaters of the Atigun River beginning a long journey to the Arctic Ocean.

A couple miles from Atigun Pass, the Dalton Highway headed for a long valley. Creeks near the road were the beginnings of the **Atigun River**. Photo looks N.

The Dalton Highway began straightening out. It made gentle curves along lower slopes of the mountains following the newly forming Atigun River down the valley. A dozen miles from Atigun Pass, a major tributary came in from a big valley to the SW. The Atigun River was already getting big, and the valley was widening out.

Lower down, the Dalton Highway started leveling out making long gentle curves along the base of the mountains as it followed headwaters of the Atigun River downstream. Lupe was beyond the rain and mist she’d experienced at Atigun Pass. Photo looks N.

The Atigun River was much larger and the valley widened out after a major tributary of the river joined in from a big valley to the SW. Lupe stands in sunshine within sight of a few encouraging patches of blue sky in the widened valley. Photo looks N.

Not a tree grew anywhere. Tall bushes were uncommon, though plenty of low ones grew. The Atigun River valley was a starkly beautiful boreal tundra flanked by some of the northernmost mountains in Alaska.

Before too long, it began to look like the Dalton Highway would soon be approaching the end of the Brooks Range. SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but Loopster could already see Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.), the mountain she would try to climb tomorrow hoping for a glorious view of Alaska’s vast North Slope.

The Dalton Highway is starting to approach the N end of the **Brooks Range** here. SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (far L in the distance), which Lupe hoped to climb tomorrow, is already in sight. Photo looks N.

Where the Atigun River came closer to the Dalton Highway, SPHP parked the G6. Being here was a dream come true! Time to get out and enjoy! Loop happily explored the tundra, while SPHP walked over to the river.

Lupe stopped here where the **Atigun River** flows close to the Dalton Highway. Alaska’s North Slope starts beyond the mountains seen in the distance. Photo looks N.

Lupe visits the fabled **Atigun River** in the northern **Brooks Range**. Photo looks N.

*The **Atigun River** really is beautiful, SPHP! However, I have a feeling I won’t be barking at any squirrels around here. I haven’t seen a single tree since before we reached Atigun Pass!* Photo looks N.

Hi, there! This is Lupe, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood reporting in from the E bank of the **Atigun River** on the **N side of the Brooks Range**, just in case any of you other Arctic sisters are thinking of coming up here and would like to know what to expect. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe enjoyed a short romp near the Atigun River, but she was getting very close to being as far N as SPHP had planned for her big 2017 Dingo Vacation. She would soon be close to Lake Benchmark Mountain and Galbraith Lake where her journey N would end. In fact, a dark cluster of peaks up ahead must be where Lake Benchmark Mountain was!

It was exciting being here, nearing a new even more northerly last mile N record for Lupe. What would she see there? Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 to keep going. Soon a gap appeared in the mountains ahead. Beyond the gap was a distant flat land. The North Slope! That was where it began!

Only a little farther on, this gap appeared in the mountains ahead. Beyond the gap, Lupe could see the beginning of the **North Slope** (Center)! Photo looks NW.

SPHP was certain that the highest ridge R of Center in this cluster of dark mountains was **Lake Benchmark Mountain**, the peak at the **N end of the Brooks Range** that Lupe had come all this way to climb! However, Lupe later discovered SPHP was in error. (Hardly a first!) Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Mountains W of the Dalton Highway beyond the Atigun River. Photo looks W.

A look back to the SSW. The **Atigun River valley** is on the L.

The Atigun River did not flow N through the gap Lupe had seen directly out onto the North Slope. Instead, shortly before reaching the gap, the river turned E entering a narrow valley between high mountains. Near this E bend, the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, leaving it behind and continuing N toward the gap.

The highway was going uphill now, bordered on one side by the Alaska oil pipeline and a high ridge Lupe would climb tomorrow on her way to Lake Benchmark Mountain somewhere to the E. On the W side of the highway, Lupe ought to be seeing Galbraith Lake any moment now. Sure enough, Galbraith Lake quickly came into view.

The Dalton Highway continues N after crossing a bridge over the Atigun River where the river turns E. The Alaska oil pipeline parallels the highway below the last mountains of the Brooks Range. Photo looks N.

A couple miles N of where the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, Lupe reaches a view of **Galbraith Lake**. Only the S end of the large lake is seen here. Photo looks SW.

Galbraith Lake lies at the base of the N side of the Brooks Range. The S end of the lake is in a wide plain near high mountains, but the N end of Galbraith Lake extends out into the beginning of the North Slope. Lupe could see the entire lake from the Dalton Highway. She was now about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go – at the end of her northern explorations.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway with a view of the **N end of Galbraith Lake**. This was about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go. Photo looks W.

Standing there on the Dalton Highway, with glistening Galbraith Lake in full view beneath a gray sky, SPHP was seized with the notion that Lupe ought to go farther. Yes, Loop could see the beginning of the North Slope at the N end of Galbraith Lake from here, but the sky was lighter over that way, and the Dalton Highway was still going up as it continued N.

Maybe by going a few miles farther, Lupe could get to some higher point where the light would be better, and she could see much more of the North Slope? It seemed worth a shot. It was late in the day. Lupe and SPHP had nothing better to do before sunset.

It was a good decision. As SPHP drove N, the light did improve, and so did the views of the North Slope. The Dalton Highway reached the top of the hill it had been climbing. SPHP continued driving N over a couple minor rises looking for a place to park the G6. Several miles beyond the last hills of the Brooks Range, a wide side road appeared on the W side of the Dalton Highway near milepost 236 or 237. Yes!

Loopster, Loopster, come on! Hurry! This is it! What you’ve come so far to see! We’re in the nick of time!

Lupe was almost alarmed by SPHP’s excited, wild behavior, but being a bold American Dingo, leapt out of the G6 ready for anything.

It was raining. And sunny. Gentle rolling fields of gold extended N as far as Lupe could see toward big hills bordering on small mountains on the horizon. To the W a line of much higher mountains marked the N edge of the lonely, remote Brooks Range. To the SE, a last ridge stood high and dark in a shadowy gloom. In sunlight, before this forbidding ridge, extending down to the golden boreal tundra, glowed a double rainbow.

Gentle golden slopes extended as far as Lupe could see to high hills and small mountains on the horizon. Photo looks N.

And sunny. Remote peaks along the N edge of the Brooks range appear miles beyond the North Slope’s billowing sea of gold. Photo looks WSW.

Loop in dazzling sunlight at the end of the rainbow on Alaska’s North Slope.

It was an amazing moment, so full of joy! This was it! This was the unbelievable North Slope even better than any dream. Lupe had arrived when the whole world appeared as a boundless treasure. The North Slope’s limitless tundra was a promised golden land at the end of the rainbow.

Such magical moments can’t last. They flit away, never to return, like carefree butterflies blown far and wide, lost wherever soft breezes take them. The rainbow, the dazzling sunlight, the glistening raindrops would all quickly fade or pass by. Yet for a few wonderful fleeting moments, it was all so very real, as real as anything ever was.

On the Dalton Highway in the promised land of Alaska’s North Slope. Photo looks E.

Sweet Loop near the end of the rainbow. Photo looks SSE.

Chasing rainbows, Lupe got cold and wet. She was tired and hungry. SPHP turned the G6 to face the sunset. Alpo for Lupe, then her warm blankie. At evening’s end, a pale sun sank into a bank of gray clouds. No colors, no beauty, simply gone. The vast gray tundra stretched away to infinity. Lupe snoozed as SPHP watched the North Slope fade away. (10:30 PM, 41°F)