Day 27 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
Noon, Dalton Highway MP 237 – The morning’s continual mist, rain, and fog had made it clear just how very lucky Lupe had been to make it up Table Mountain(6,314 ft.) yesterday. The exhausted Carolina Dog had slept like a rock the entire morning, while SPHP made considerable progress on the trip journal. About time for a sniff!
Despite a steady mist, much of the Chandalar Shelf was dimly visible, as if seen in a dream, as Lupe patrolled the border of the muddy pullout. Nothing else was in sight, the mountains hidden by fog.
Good thing this is a rest day, SPHP! Talk about dismal! Do we have any plans?
Nothing definite, Looper. None of your possibilities are going to work out on a day like this. When I finish getting the trip journal caught up, we’ll continue N. Only 7 miles to Atigun Pass from here!
The weather won’t be any better there, SPHP. How far N are we going?
If it stays like this, all the way to Deadhorse, Loop, although we won’t get that far today. No reason to stop anywhere other than for the night unless conditions improve.
2:00 PM, Brooks Range, Dalton Highway MP 237 – Raining harder now, foggy and darker out, but the trip journal was caught up, and lunch was over and done with. SPHP fired up the RAV4.
Onward, aye, Looper? Hope conditions aren’t too bad going over the pass.
2:37 PM, Brooks Range, Dalton Highway MP 244 – Driven by a powerful SW breeze, fog and light rain hurtled through Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.). Although the wind made it feel cold, at 42 ºF conditions were actually better than expected, balmy even. Try telling that to the American Dingo, though!
Hurry up! Snap the picture, and let’s go, SPHP!
At always delightful Atigun Pass.
Continuing down the N side of the pass, the RAV4 was soon below the fog, making it possible to see the sights. The Dalton Highway made a couple of big curving loops before straightening out, and heading N down the Atigun River valley.
Lupe was now on the N side of the Brooks Range. The gloomy sky was still completely overcast here, but it wasn’t raining. Although there were bushes, not a single tree existed N of Atigun Pass. Practically everything was clad in Arctic yellow, brown, gold, gray, or red. SPHP made several stops along the way.
N of Atigun Pass on the way down to the Atigun River valley. Photo looks S.Atigun River valley. Alaska oil pipeline (L). Photo looks NNE.Alaska oil pipeline, the Atigun River, and unnamed peaks. Photo looks SW.
Sure do, SPHP! We got lost in the fog, and wound up climbing the wrong peak before realizing our mistake. Only time that’s ever happened to us!
Yup. We got there, but due to the fog never did see the North Slope from the summit, which was kind of the whole point.
Still could, SPHP! The road is dry here. Doesn’t look like it’s been raining at all. We could climb Lake Benchmark Mountain again!
You’ve got a point, Loop. There’s another objective somewhat farther on, though, that we ought to take on first that would be truly awesome, if we can manage it. Maybe we should find a place to hang out here tonight, and see what the morning brings?
Lake Benchmark Mountain (R) beyond Lupe. Photo looks N.
3:37 PM, 55ºF, MP 270 – Hard to believe after all the precipitation S of Atigun Pass, but trucks were actually raising clouds of dust along the Dalton Highway when SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout just S of the 2nd bridge over the Atigun River.
Let’s have a look, Loopster!
After trotting across the bridge for the first time in 5 years, Lupe went down to the boat ramp. At a big bend, the Atigun River turned NE here. 10 miles downstream it would join the Sagivanirktok River, leaving the Brooks Range for Alaska’s North Slope and the Arctic Ocean.
Atigun River. Photo looks SW.
We started for Lake Benchmark Mountain from the opposite side of the highway, didn’t we, SPHP? Let’s go over there.
Climbing a bank on the E side of the Dalton Highway, the big golden slope E of the Alaska oil pipeline the Carolina Dog had once climbed starting her trek to Lake Benchmark Mountain was in view. That day seemed like a long time ago now.
Heading S toward the river, Lupe enjoyed a fabulous view of the sharp spire of Peak 5308, crown of the massive mountain wall overlooking the Atigun River gorge. A terrific view of the Dalton Highway bridge over the river was on display, too.
Peak 5308 (Center) towering over the Atigun River. Photo looks E.Dalton Highway bridge near MP 270. Photo looks SW.
Despite the cloud cover, conditions really were a lot better here than they had been S of Atigun Pass.
Supposed to be a campground near Galbraith, Loop. Shall we check it out?
How far is it to Galbraith, SPHP?
Not far at all, Loopster. The turn is only another 5 miles N. Galbraith Lake is actually just a mile W of where we are now. We had a pretty good view of the lake on the way to Lake Benchmark Mountain, remember?
That’s right, SPHP! Yes, let’s check out the campground. Love this area!
The turn W to Galbraith was near MP 275. Half a dozen much smaller lakes, and the N end of Galbraith Lake were visible from here. Galbraith was 1.5 miles from the highway. Really wasn’t much there other than an airstrip. Another 2.5 miles got Lupe to the Galbraith Lake Campground.
Dalton Highway (L) and the N end of Galbraith Lake (L) from the turn to Galbraith. Photo looks SSW.Entrance to the Galbraith Lake Campground. Peak 5308 (R), Peak 5430 (far R). Photo looks ESE.
4:07 PM – The Galbraith Lake Campground was 1.5 miles W of the big lake, which could be seen from some of the sites strung out along 2 big loops on a gently sloping plain of tall, yellow bushes. The campground featured an outhouse, garbage service, several informational displays, plus a picnic table and metal fire ring at each site.
Only a pawful of the many sites were taken, and the price was certainly right. Campsites were free! After driving around the loops once, SPHP claimed a secluded one at a dead end among the bushes.
Breezy! The wind was from the S or SW as it had been for days, perhaps explaining why it was dry here. At least lately, Galbraith Lake was on the lee side of the Brooks Range. Although the wind kept SPHP from heating up anything to eat, the breeze wasn’t strong enough to bother the American Dingo at all.
Galbraith Lake Campground turned out to be an awesome experience! Between rests in the RAV4, Lupe made many exploratory forays among the bushes on strolls around the campground loops. Enormously excited by this stunning environment, the Carolina Dog eventually roamed well up the slopes W of the campground, gaining 200 feet of elevation.
Enjoying a rawhide chew stick in the RAV4.Roaming SW of the campground. Photo looks SW.
Many mysterious peaks were visible to the S, but a gray mountain only 1.5 miles SW of the campground was of particular interest.
I think we could climb that mountain, SPHP! Maybe tomorrow?
Appears like something we’d be capable of, Looper. Definitely a peak worth keeping in mind!
Does it have a name, SPHP?
Not that I know of, Loopster.
We should give it a name then, SPHP! What should we call it?
How about West Galbraith Peak, Loop? Descriptive of where it’s at.
Not all that snazzy, SPHP, but it’s better than Peak XXXX like so many of them are. Fine for now, but let me know, if you think of anything better.
West Galbraith Peak (L). Photo looks SW.
Marmots whistled warnings as Lupe ran, sniffed, and explored until dusk came on. As far as the American Dingo was concerned, this easy evening out among all the beautiful bushes on the soft tundra was as good as climbing most any peak. A few miles E, Galbraith Lake was in sight, with both Lake Benchmark Mountain(5,000 ft.) and Peak 5308 beyond.
A marvelous, gorgeous evening it was, too! And one that held out some promise of even greater adventures tomorrow.
W of Galbraith Lake Campground, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-25-22
I don’t know, Loop. Let’s wait and see what happens.
SPHP sighed, and got to work on the trip journal. Anyone’s guess how this was going to turn out.
Relaxing on her pink blanket, Lupe stared out the window of the RAV4. Plenty of blue sky to the SE, and the mountains to the E were all in view. Sunlight illuminated the golden tundra of the Chandalar Shelf near the highway, but most of the gently sloping plain was hidden by fog. A much higher, thicker layer of clouds hung over all, the sky 80% overcast.
5 miles S, a dark mesa rose 600 feet above a region of highlands, only its lower slopes visible beneath the cloud deck, the upper portion shrouded in mystery. Somewhere near the W end, Shelley Rogers stood in frigid fog by a 6 foot tall cairn along the mesa’s N edge. She’d been waiting a very long time.
After an encouraging evening yesterday, hopes had been dashed last night by the sound of rain on the RAV4. Then, in the wee hours, Lupe wanted out for a few minutes. SPHP had been shocked to see a clear night sky. Stars proved it was no illusion.
The muddy morning drive up the Dietrich River valley past pavement’s end near MP 210 was a mixture of hope in the form of partially blue skies, and discouragement due to ground fogs and rapidly increasing cloudiness wherever sunlight warmed the damp tundra.
Lupe had been to the Chandalar Shelf twice in 2017, but conditions had never been right. Once she’d actually set out across it. A cold rain had forced a retreat. Looked a little better today, although it was easy to see that happening again. Wouldn’t take much.
9:18 AM, Dalton Highway MP 237, Chandalar Shelf – Out for a sniff! The fog was gone, but so was the sunshine, any remaining blue sky to the SE beyond vision. The dark mesa, Table Mountain’s summit, was almost completely hidden. Except for a few patches of blue to the W, the entire sky was gray.
The Chandalar Shelf from the Dalton Highway pullout at MP 237. Photo looks E.Table Mountain (R of Center) beyond the Chandalar Shelf. Summit in the clouds. Photo looks S.
It’s going the wrong way, SPHP. Cloudier now than when we arrived.
Yeah. Not looking good, Loop. Never know, though. Still have quite a bit to do on the trip journal. Might as well hang out here until it’s caught up.
Yes! I’m bored, SPHP. Have you finished with the trip journal yet?
Yup, pretty much. In any case, it’s decision time, Loop. Noon already. Any change?
Minimal, but the clouds seem a little higher, SPHP. Most of the mesa is in sight.
Really hadn’t been much of a change. A general gray gloom still hung over the Chandalar Shelf. Only a few patches of blue lingering off to the W prevented the day from being 100% overcast. Lupe was right, though. The cloud deck was a little higher now.
SPHP grabbed the pack.
Are we going, SPHP? Looks like a 50/50 proposition, at best.
I know it, Loop, if that! Ordinarily, I’d say no, but we’re a million miles from home. How many more chances are we going to get? One on the way back S, but things might easily be worse, and that could be it forever. Marginal, but the weather is the best we’ve ever seen it here. So, let’s try it. Like last time, if conditions take a turn for the worse, we’ll bail at the first sign of trouble. All we can do.
Minutes later, the American Dingo was trotting across the golden tundra of the Chandalar Shelf bound for Table Mountain(6,314 ft.).
Crossing the Chandalar Shelf.Table Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks S.
The tundra was soft and spongy, but this part of the Chandalar Shelf wasn’t as tussocky or boggy as SPHP had feared. Progress was decent. Lupe sniffed among beautiful, bright autumn foliage, roaming at will.
From a distance, the Chandalar Shelf appeared almost completely flat, but 0.5 mile in, a dip appeared ahead. Nothing major, except that it did hold a surprise. A dirt road was ahead.
Approaching the dirt road. HP4286 (L), Table Mountain (R). Photo looks S.
Hang on a minute, Loop!
What’s up, SPHP?
Been playing around with the new iPhone on this trip, and recently figured out how to start a GPS track with the Peakbagger.com app. Forgot to start one before we set out. Just give me a minute here, Loopster. I’ll get one started, and we’ll be on our way again.
Nothing like joining the new millennium almost a quarter century late! Do you see that road ahead, SPHP?
Yeah. That’s got to be the access road for the Alaska oil pipeline. Believe the pipeline is underground along in here. We can follow the road when we get to it for a little way, but it’s not going to take us up Table Mountain. As for millenniums, they aren’t all they’re cracked up to be, Loop. The last one up and died on me way before I was done with it. So much for their reputation for staying power!
Reaching the buried pipeline service road, Lupe followed it nearly 0.5 mile SSW, before leaving it to head S again. Turned out she should have stuck with the road a little farther to the top of a rise. SPHP realized shortly after leaving it that the driest, firmest ground was over that way. The Carolina Dog got there, but the road would have been easier than the tundra traverse.
At the buried Alaska oil pipeline right of way. Photo looks SSW.
A stretch of light gray scree topping a gently rounded minor ridge ran S from the road to the edge of a deep valley. 2 massive ridges extending N from Table Mountain cradled this valley between them. Lupe paused to take in the scene, which was really quite spectacular.
Table Mountain (Center), HP4907 (L), HP4622 (R). Photo looks S.
Wow! That’s impressive sight, isn’t it, Loop? So far, so good, too!
This is awesome, SPHP! And have you noticed? It’s getting sunnier!
Yes, suddenly looking much more promising, Looper. Onward! Puppy, ho!
The nice, firm scree soon gave out as Lupe turned SE toward HP4286, the last high point at the toe of Table Mountain’s easternmost N ridge.
Near the end of the scree. HP4286 (Center). Photo looks SE.
HP4286 was merely a big hill, emphasis on “big”. Nearly 800 feet to the top from where Lupe started her climb as she left the Chandalar Shelf, the squishy tundra made each step harder than it ought to have been. No other obstacles at all, though. The American Dingo climbed along the middle of a shallow drainage where the tundra was a brighter yellow, SPHP trudging along behind.
In the shallow, yellow drainage. HP4286 (Center). Photo looks SE.
Suddenly the sun came out, further brightening the yellow tundra. What had been a chilly start, was rapidly morphing into a warm day. After shedding multiple layers, SPHP burst into song.
Follow the yellow tundra road! Follow the yellow tundra road! Follow, follow, follow, follow, follow the yellow tundra road!
On the yellow tundra road. HP4286 (Center). Photo looks SE.
Guess you aren’t in Kansas anymore, are you, SPHP?
No. Haven’t been in quite a while, Loop. I can assure you that Kansas doesn’t look much like this, though.
Looking back, the shadows of clouds drifted across the sunlit Chandalar Shelf. That might have looked a little like Kansas, but the unspoiled mountains beyond did not.
Looking down on the Chandalar Shelf. Mountains of the Brooks Range beyond. Photo looks NNE.
Toiling up the slope, which was only moderately steep, it seemed like a long way to HP4286. The sunny, optimistic time soon came to an end as clouds regrouped and another wave advanced. Blue sky vanished. Near the top, Lupe came to patches of bare ground, even a bit of rockiness. A light rain shower cooled the air considerably, and had SPHP reapplying those recently removed layers in a hurry.
Closing in on HP4286 (L). Photo looks SE.
2:17 PM – HP4286 was a gently rounded hilltop, a mix of small rocks and thin tundra, with ample space to move around. Magnificent views lent credence to the notion that it had already been quite a trek just getting to this point.
Off to the N, Lupe looked down on the Chandalar Shelf far below. A pump station, or some sort of facility, was visible along the Dalton Highway. From this height, it was now easy to see the Chandalar River leaving the Chandalar Shelf heading SE down a long, broad valley.
Chandalar Shelf (Center), and pump station (Center) along the Dalton Highway, Chandalar River (Center & R). Photo looks NNE.Chandalar River from HP4286. Photo looks NE.
To the NW, another section of the Dalton Highway was visible way down along the Dietrich River. Colorful mountains were on the opposite side of the valley. Steep slopes led from gray summits to reds, greens, and golds below.
Dalton Highway (Center) down in the Dietrich River valley. Photo looks NW.
So far, Table Mountain’s dark summit mesa was still in view to the S, and a fair amount of blue sky remained to the SW. Lupe was soon bathed in weak sunlight again, although how long it would last was debatable.
Table Mountain (R), HP4980 (Center). Photo looks S.Blue skies to the SW.
What’s this, SPHP?
Oh, that? We’ve seen those before in other places, Loop. You remember.
Yes, I do, but what is it, SPHP? What’s it for?
Well, now. It’s a standard, run-of-the-mill, triangular whatchamadoody, Looper. Reflects light, provides a good electrical ground, and protects whatever is underneath it.
What’s underneath it, SPHP?
HP4286, Loop.
Shouldn’t it be a lot bigger then, SPHP? It’s only big enough to protect a few pebbles and tufts of tundra.
You’re right, Loopster. Certainly appears some whatchamadoody engineer made a serious miscalculation.
By HP4286‘s run-of-the-mill whatchamadoody.
A 25 minute break on HP4286 was enough to recharge batteries before it was time to move on. Already in view more than a mile S, HP4980 was the next objective ahead. To get there, Lupe followed a ridge going SE from HP4286 that connected to the larger region leading to HP4980.
About to leave HP4286 along the ridge at far L for HP4980 (R of Center). Photo Looks S.
Progress was rapid along this SE ridge, which had some hilliness to it. SPHP enjoyed the downhill sections, even though it obviously meant having to regain all that lost elevation again real soon. Overall, it was another long climb, but a fun one, with lots of amazing territory for the Carolina Dog to explore. Loopster was soon across the SE ridge, and roaming higher SW toward HP4980.
On the hillyridge SE of HP4286. Photo looks SE.Exploring on the way to HP4980. Photo looks SE.In the broad region leading SW to HP4980. Photo looks SW.Heading higher! Photo looks SW.
Lupe was having a blast! For quite a while, HP4980 was out of sight, but it eventually came back into view again after going through a little pass. By then, Lupe had already gained nearly all the elevation required to get there. Table Mountain(6,180 ft.) was in back view again, too. Although closer than before, it still looked a long way off.
3:42 PM – HP4980 had a little more flair to it than HP4286‘s featureless top had to offer. Nothing too dramatic, but an 8 foot high rock formation toward the E end of a 60 foot long “summit” ridge served well as a spiffy Dingo Display Point. Another rock formation at the W end of this ridge was almost as high, but didn’t have much relief to it.
Atop HP4980. Photo looks E.At the W end of the HP4980 summit ridge. Photo looks NE.
It was starting to look like Looper was getting up in the world! Back to the N, it was a long way down to the Chandalar Shelf now. HP4286 was quite a bit closer, but not that impressive from here.
HP4286 (Center), Chandalar Shelf (R of Center). Photo looks N.
Amazing views were in all directions, but the most important one was to the SSW. Table Mountain(6,314 ft.) didn’t look that far away anymore. Most of an enormous, gently sloping region leading to it was in sight.
After a 15 minute break, Lupe left HP4980 following a broad, rounded ridge S. Up here, even the tundra was starting to fade away, leaving only dirt and rock, but the American Dingo faced no obstacles. Progress was excellent on this easy terrain.
Heading for Table Mountain (R) after leaving HP4980. Photo looks S.
Clouds sailed high overhead as Lupe trotted along, but patches of blue sky were around, too. The top of Table Mountain had been out of the clouds for quite a while now. SPHP had as much confidence as it was possible to have in this fickle clime that Loopster would soon arrive at the base of the 600 foot high summit mesa.
That was where confidence ended. A sense of unease was growing.
Looks mighty steep, Loop, especially along the upper rim. I sure hope we can actually get to the top.
Shelley Rogers did it, SPHP.
Yeah, but that doesn’t necessarily mean we can.
Getting closer. Table Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.Another glance over toward HP4986 (R of Center). Photo looks ESE.
Getting to where she could turn SW, Lupe faced a wide plain of sparse tundra sloping gradually higher toward an upper plateau. The ground was soft with moisture, as the Carolina Dog headed straight for a steeper 200 foot high rise leading to the plateau.
Odd mounds of tundra grew near trickles of surface water in this area. Even more strangely, upon reaching the base of the steeper climb, Lupe discovered a natural path higher bordered by the mounds. Where the mounds ended, a faint use trail continued on up to the plateau.
Among the mounds. Table Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks SW.On the tundra mound bordered path. Photo looks S.
Above the lip of the steeper rise, the upper plateau still rose toward the SW. Table Mountain’s summit mesa was less than a mile away now, its high point toward the W, too.
The plateau was a world of rock. Virtually no tundra at all. Taking the easiest route higher, Lupe made a long, sweeping arc N then W.
Slowly turning due S again, the American Dingo seemed excited. Lupe roamed ahead, often pausing to gaze off in various directions, as though she detected, or expected, something out here. Focused on the mesa’s looming N face, SPHP never saw whatever she sensed.
The summit mesa (L & Center) upon reaching the upper plateau. Photo looks SW.Approaching Table Mountain’s N face. Photo looks S.Lupe staring off to the SSW. HP6260 (R).Whatever Lupe sensed out there, SPHP didn’t see it. HP6260 (L). Photo looks SW.
Soon time to start the scramble! SPHP paused to study the precipitous rock bands extending along the upper rim of the mountain. Consulting Richard Carey’s trip report, it only confirmed that the route up was from the N on steep, loose scree. The entire N face fit that description.
Approaching Table Mountain’s N face. Photo looks S.
Criminy! Doesn’t look any better from here than it did from a distance, Loop. Don’t really know where to start. Nothing looks good along the top.
Maybe we need to be closer where we can see more detail, SPHP? Pick a spot, and we’ll see how it goes.
You might be right, Loopster. Once partway up, maybe it’ll be obvious where we ought to go? Don’t know what else to do. Let’s try the middle, then drift W. Looks like there might be some clefts in the rock bands in that area. That’s my best guess from down here.
Nothing to it, at first. Lupe scrambled halfway up easy as pie on large scree that didn’t shift much. A confidence builder, but as the Carolina Dog continued higher, the scree became looser as the slope steepened. Rocks clattered down the mountain. What route might be best wasn’t clear at all. The upper rim still looked worryingly bad everywhere.
So far, so good. Photo looks SSW.On a rare flat spot. Photo looks WSW.
Maybe angling more to the E, where the upper rim was lower was the better choice? Climbing with increasing caution, SPHP slowly worked over that way. Approaching the upper rock bands, the grade became alarmingly steep. Virtually nothing was stable. Even exposed bedrock was rotten, often crumbling away after providing little or no support. There was firm bedrock in the mix, too, but everything had to be tested.
Approaching the rock bands. Photo looks SE.
Following SPHP, Lupe climbed and climbed, but very slowly. The last 150 vertical feet were just plain scary. Few decent pawholds, and those that did exist were tiny grips on safety. The climb wasn’t completely vertical, but was at the very limit of what SPHP could do.
A trekking pole got away, sliding out of reach. Going down to retrieve it was a near impossibility. Barely able to hook the wrist strap with the other pole while clinging precariously to the mountain, SPHP managed to coax it back within reach.
Shortly thereafter, just a little higher, Lupe made what should have been an easy leap, but the mountain crumbled beneath her. Clawing madly, desperate for control, SPHP watched in horror as the Carolina Dog fell 2 or 3 feet, then slid another 15 feet amid a clatter of small rocks before coming to a halt and regaining her balance.
You OK, Loop?
Yes, but this is crazy, SPHP! Come down!
Near panic set in, as SPHP realized that retreat meant an almost certain fall. Hands were needed for support, and there was nothing stable to hold onto. Only way out was to continue higher. Even that was looking near impossible. Frozen with fear, SPHP tried to restore calm before continuing higher.
How Lupe managed to follow, SPHP never saw, but she’d always had much better maneuverability, and was a fantastic scrambler. The very worst part of the climb was thankfully short. 30 feet higher, things got better. Soon they were rapidly improving. Scrambling up loose scree in a 2 foot wide gap between a couple of small, steep snowbanks, suddenly it was over. SPHP could stand up and walk, Lupe right behind.
An incredible feeling of relief flooded in.
Worst route ever, SPHP! Are you trying to get us killed?
No. You’re right, though, Loopster. Can’t remember anything we’ve ever done that was scarier. We’re lucky as H-E double toothpicks to be here in one piece. Guarantee you we’re not going back down that way. Got to be a better route somewhere.
A vast, rocky, rumpled slope rose toward the W. The true summit was that way.
Safely up the N face with an easy trek higher ahead. Photo looks SW.
C’mon, Loop! Let’s go meet Shelley Rogers!
Where is she, SPHP?
She’s standing by a 6 foot high cairn somewhere W along the N edge. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Angling SW away from the dangerous edge, Lupe started up the rocky slope in search of the true summit. 60 or 70 feet higher, she reached an equally enormous level plain. It was nothing but rock, too.
Heading off in search of Shelley and the true summit. Photo looks WSW.
6:24 PM, 43ºF, Table Mountain(6,314 ft.) true summit – Lupe hadn’t seen any sign of Shelley Rogers yet, or the 6 foot tall cairn, either, when she arrived at the true summit at the W end of the summit mesa. She did find something SPHP expected to see here, though. A red can was tucked inside a pile of rocks. Yup, Richard Carey had been here alright!
3 feet W of the red can, the “Table” survey benchmark was fastened to a little ridge of bedrock. 15 or 20 feet farther N, at the very highest part of this ridge, 5 rocks laying next to each other served as a poor excuse for a true summit cairn.
Near Richard Carey’s signature red can (Center). Survey benchmark visible R of Lupe near her rear paw. HP6260 (Center & R) in the background. Photo looks SW.“Table” survey benchmark.Table Mountain true summit. Photo looks W.
Congratulations, Loopster, on your daring ascent of Table Mountain!
Lupe offered her paw so SPHP could shake it, but otherwise responded with little enthusiasm. Tired, hungry, and looking glum, she curled up at SPHP’s feet near Richard Carey’s red can. The Carolina Dog didn’t want water, but ate some Taste of the Wild. A chocolate coconut bar and beef jerky, both eagerly accepted, revived her spirits to some degree.
Looking ENE back across the summit plain.
Rest up, Loop, while I have a look at the registry Richard Carey left here.
Sign me in, SPHP! Might be the last the world ever hears from us!
The red can needed a new paint job, but, as usual at a Carey installation, the small green-covered notebook serving as the registry hidden within was in perfect condition.
Inside cover and first page of the registry.
Anything interesting in the registry, SPHP?
Yeah, sort of. Richard Carey and Shelley Rogers were both here on 8-1-95, nearly 27 years ago! Next entry is by Shaun on 7-5-98, almost 3 years later. Shaun writes “Quit our jobs, hitchhiked to the Brooks Range with nice people.” Surprising number of entries since then.
How long ago was the last one before my entry, SPHP?
Also 3 years ago, Loop, on 8-18-19. Amy Helkenn and Kenny Lake, both of Alaska, wrote: “Achievement! Now to find a better way down …”
A sentiment I wholeheartedly agree with, SPHP!
Me, too, Looper!
Richard and Shelly were here 27 years ago, SPHP? Thought you said Shelley was waiting over by the 6 foot tall cairn we haven’t seen yet.
She is here, at least in my mind, she is. I’ve seen her picture standing next to that cairn so many times on Peakbagger.com that I just expect her to actually be here.
In your mind, SPHP? So we risked our necks coming all this way to meet Shelley Rogers, and she hasn’t really been on Table Mountain for nearly 27 years?
In a sense, some echo of Shelley’s presence is still here, Loop. In my head, I can see that photo of her likeness. Something of Richard Carey is here, too. The red can, the perfect registry, all convey his presence at another moment in time, thereby conferring some degree of reality to it again due to our awareness of their significance.
You’re either a deep thinker, or deeply disturbed, SPHP. After that ascent route, I’m inclined to believe the latter.
Lupe’s traditional summit hour raced quickly by. She spent much of it resting near the red can cairn and survey benchmark, but also joined SPHP in short tours of the views. Glories of the unspoiled Brooks Range were all around! Richard Carey’s trip report mentioned that the sharp spire of Mount Doonerak(7,457 ft.) ought to be visible 26.5 miles W on a clear day. Lupe could see some big mountains out that way, but SPHP didn’t think any of them were Doonerak.
The American Dingo actually maybe could see the only other named peak SPHP really knew anything at all about. Loopster’s long revered Mountain of the Midnight Sun, really Snowden Mountain(6,420 ft.), was visible 15 miles S.
Peak 6450 (L of Center), Snowden Mountain (R of Center) in the distance. Peak 6010 (R). Photo looks S.Peak 6450 (L), Snowden Mountain (L of Center), Peak 6410 (Center). Photo looks S.Snowden Mountain (L), Peak 6010 (L of Center), Peak 5310 (R). Photo looks SSW.Snowden Mountain (R in the distance), Peak 6010 (far R). Photo looks SSE.
A journey over to the N edge to look for Shelley and the 6 foot tall cairn yielded no sign of either one.
Can’t believe the cairn is gone, too, Loop! Always wanted to get a photo of you next to it, right where Shelley was standing.
At 6 feet tall, the cairn would stick out like a sore thumb, SPHP. Face it, it’s not here. Only your delusions are.
Along the N edge. No sign of the 6 foot tall cairn. Kuyuktuvuk Creek valley (far L), HP4286 and the Chandalar Shelf (R). Photo looks N.
Lupe enjoyed moments of sunshine on Table Mountain, but the sky was slowly clouding up. The air grew colder, and rain showers appeared off to the W.
Getting late. We’re going to have to start thinking about finding a better route down pretty soon, Loop. Want to take a tour around the perimeter of this entire upper summit plateau? If we circle around the S end first, we can scout out descent route possibilities on our way back along the N edge before bidding the true summit a final farewell.
Heading counter-clockwise around the summit plain, Lupe went far enough E to get a glimpse of the Chandalar River valley. The mountains were lower in this direction, and less distinct since a rain shower was passing through.
Table Mountain’s S ridge (Center & R), Peak 5660 (L of Center) beyond. Photo looks SE.Chandalar River valley (at base of reddish ridge). Photo looks ESE.
After enjoying the view, Lupe cut NNW across the summit plain. Upon reaching the N edge, she turned SW. Following her while peering over the edge, SPHP was horrified! Nothing but cliffs!
Along the N edge. HP4940 (Center). Photo looks NW.
Lupe got all the way back to the W end of the mountain.
So what did you decide, SPHP? Find a good spot to start our descent?
No. We’re in trouble, Loop. Might be deceptive, but I saw nothing that looked at all doable from up here. Let’s check out this saddle real quick.
Just N of the true summit, a 10 or 15 foot dip led W to another massive rocky knob of high ground. Scrambling down into this saddle, SPHP peered N down a huge ravine. A snowbank filling part of the upper end could be avoided easily enough. Below it, bordered on the NE by a big spine of rock, a very long, steep chute of good-sized scree ran way down the mountain.
HP6260 (L of Center), the rocky knob beyond the dip (R). Photo looks SW.Looking down on the saddle (L). Peak 5100 (Center). Photo looks WNW.HP4286 (Center) with the Chandalar Shelf beyond. HP4980 (R). Photo looks N.
This ravine is a possibility, Loopster, but I don’t like that I can’t see how it ends.
Not like we have a million options, SPHP.
Believe me, I’m keenly aware of that, Looper. Let’s keep this in mind, but grab the pack and head for the lower E end of the summit mesa. Maybe there’s a better spot over there, E of where we came up?
Lupe at the true summit from the saddle. Photo looks SE.
7:45 PM, Table Mountain true summit – More than a full hour had fled up here! A final glance around, and SPHP grabbed the pack.
Bye, Shelley! Bye, Richard! Onward! Puppy, ho!
Heading E along the N rim, SPHP kept peering over the edge. Nothing! Still looked bad, as in impossible. Descending to the lower E portion of the mesa, Lupe finally came to a spot that looked better. Starting for it, SPHP quickly had a change of heart.
Too dicey, Loop. Decent spot to go down here, but not sure I can get to it safely. Start to slide, and it’s curtains!
Back to the W chute then, SPHP?
I don’t know. It’s 0.25 mile back, Looper. Let me think.
The sun was low. Time was running out. Showers still hanging around, and cloudier than ever. Already chilly. No choice. Lupe absolutely had to get down. Staying unprepared up here overnight at 6,300 feet in the Brooks Range was unthinkable.
Panic was rising again. How do you fight it when it’s justified? Must stay calm no matter what. Panic is the enemy, the voice of foolishness whispering, then screaming, in your ear. Everyone else that signed Richard Carey’s registry must have made it safely off the mountain. Lupe hadn’t found any skeletons.
Let’s take another look at where we came up before resorting to the chute.
No! You can’t seriously be considering going back that way, SPHP!
Let’s look. Then decide. We have to do something, Loop.
Lupe’s ascent route had to be somewhere nearby, but SPHP couldn’t find it. A zillion gray rocks up here all looked the same. Should have built a cairn to mark the spot! Panic rose another couple of notches.
What about your new iPhone, SPHP? You started a GPS track, remember?
Minutes later, the Carolina Dog was back above the 2 foot gap between the small, steep snowbanks. Yeah, this was the right place.
Still looked horrendous! Sitting down, SPHP hugged Lupe, stroking her soft fur for a few minutes while gazing out at the Chandalar Shelf and all these splendid, remote peaks of the Brooks Range. Stupendous, truly magnificent! Kissing Lupe on the nose, SPHP gazed into those trusting brown eyes.
Love you, Lupe, more than anything! This isn’t going to be pretty. We’ll go slow and easy. Stay behind me. If anything bad happens, go back to the RAV4 and stay there.
Poles, feet, hands at the ready to break any momentum, despite a sense of foreboding, SPHP began sliding slowly down the mountain on wet, dirty scree. Little girl technique! Sliding on your butt.
Showers of loose scree clattered down ahead of SPHP, some bounding a long way before coming to a halt. Completely silent, Lupe stayed right behind. Nerve-wracking, terrifying progress was achieved inch by inch, despite the paucity of reliable support. Below the 2 snowbanks, a chute angling E was better than drifting W back the way Lupe had come up.
The chute featured minor drop-offs where SPHP had to help Lupe down. Staying super cautious for a long way, fear was turning to confidence.
We’ve got this, Loop!
9:26 PM – Whew! Pants torn and filthy, SPHP could finally stand up and walk again. The sun was already down, dusk coming on as the Carolina Dog resumed her usual roaming. Uneventful, the long, pleasant return was exceedingly joyful. Marching beneath an otherwise overcast sky, a little light was still visible in rare gaps between clouds.
The entire world was silent and empty as views gradually faded to black.
Shortly before reaching HP4286 again, Lupe took a break at a small hill along the ridge. SPHP sat petting her as the American Dingo relaxed on soft tundra. 3 miles N, the lights of 2 trucks were creeping slowly along the Dalton Highway. Several more lights revealed the location of the pump station N of the Chandalar Shelf.
Carrying on, the flashlight had to be deployed. Descending HP4286, the pump station lights helped keep SPHP oriented. Crossing the Chandalar Shelf, they weren’t in view. Lupe headed for a dark triangle against the night sky. That triangle was HP4292 directly across the highway from the pullout where the RAV waited.
8-25-22, 12:56 AM, Chandalar Shelf – Raindrops, the first in many hours, began falling. No matter. 5 minutes later, an exhausted Carolina Dog leapt up onto her pink blanket. A can of salmon and Ritz crackers served as dinner.
Wow! Can’t believe it, Loopster. You made it to Table Mountain today! Guess we’ll remember this one for a while, aye? Unforgettable!
Nothing like an hour or two of terror to spice up an otherwise wonderful day, SPHP!
Eh, we lived to tell the tale, Loop. Everyone else whose been there must have, too.
You weren’t sounding so cocky a few hours ago, SPHP. If you don’t mind, I hope our next adventure doesn’t feature so much drama.
With that, Lupe closed her tired eyes and departed to Dingo Dreamland. Out in the black Arctic night, a steady rain poured down on the lonely Chandalar Shelf.
On the way to Table Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-24-22
