Days 3 & 4 of Lupe’s 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!
6-18-22, nearly noon – Lander City Park! Recognizing it instantly, Lupe was enthused! A favorite stop, Lander City Park meant soft green grass beneath the shade of big old cottonwood trees, complete with 2 little streams where the Carolina Dog could get a drink, or simply cool her paws off. Free squirrel watching and camping, too! Even at mid-day, quite a few tents were set up.
First thing Loop wanted to do was cross the gently arching bridge over the Middle Popo Agie River to explore McManus Park, a smaller, wilder area. Weeds bearing little yellow flowers were blooming profusely.
Was that ragweed? SPHP already felt a little allergic, no doubt due to all the exposure to sage over the past couple of days. Loopster didn’t have allergies. Sniffing happily along dirt paths, she soon came to the river. Plenty of flow in early summer. Loop helped herself to a drink.
After her tour of McManus Park, Lupe relaxed while SPHP worked on the trip journal. The squirrel watching was a little slow. Still recovering from yesterday’s big adventure up Giant Deer Mountain (11,321 ft.) in the Bighorns, the American Dingo soon fell asleep.
Saturday! By early evening, there was live music. A band was playing Johnny Cash hits. Loopster revisited McManus Park and took a couple of strolls through the city park, enjoying sniffs with other dogs. As the sun sank toward the Wind River Range, Country & Western was replaced by wedding music. A happy couple was getting married. How romantic!
6-19-22, 11:33 AM – Only 0.25 mile E of the Idaho border, SPHP turned R off Hwy 89 a little over 4 miles N of Border Junction. A green and white street sign said Raymond, and there was a Lincoln County Road No. 200 sign, too. A gap in the mountains was visible only a mile E. Must be the lower W end of Raymond Canyon. Supposed to be a trailhead there, or at least a place to park.
County Road No. 200 went due E for half a mile, then angled NE a little way. Sure enough, there was a big turnaround spot at the foot of the mountains. Plenty of parking for half a dozen vehicles if need be, but the RAV4 was alone when Lupe leapt out.
Instead of a trail, a narrow gravel road left this “trailhead” heading up a gradual incline leading into Raymond Canyon. A sign insisted there was no parking beyond this point, which seemed a bit odd.
6-19-22, 11:57 AM – It had rained earlier this morning while driving through the sagebrush prairie SW of Farson. No rain now, but the sky was cloudy as Lupe left for Sublette Mountain (9,313 ft.).
Trotting E up the incline, the road soon leveled out. Lupe quickly came to a clearing partially shaded by big trees between towering rock walls. There was a stone campfire ring, and Raymond Creek ran along the S side of the clearing down among the bushes.
What a cool campsite, Looper! Feels amazingly secluded despite being so close to the trailhead, although I don’t see any reason why we couldn’t have parked here just as easily.
We aren’t camping, are we, SPHP?
Nope. Sublette’s a day hike. I like this spot, though.
Me, too, SPHP! Now, if you don’t mind, think I’ll check out the creek.
The road ended here, but a nice, flat single track trail continued farther into the canyon. After 0.25 mile, it curved SE, dipping down to a ford of Raymond Creek. Not a big stream, but much too wide to leap over, and not enough rocks to rock-hop it. Loathe to get wet boots and socks so early on, SPHP decided to wade it barepaw.
Immediately beyond the ford, the trail curved E again. For 300 feet, a tiny stream trickling along it made the going a bit mucky, but beyond that one short stretch, the trail was dry again. Modest elevation gain made progress fast and easy. Raymond Creek was seldom seen, but could always be heard among the willows and bushes N of the trail.
The day turned sunny. Birds chirped. Butterflies, among them a large yellow Swallowtail, danced in the sunshine. Lupe enjoyed views of long lines of craggy rock formations running up the mountainsides.
After about a mile, the trail passed between a line of 4 metal posts. 10 or 15 minutes beyond them, the American Dingo came to a couple of large gray-green ponds. She paused for a look.
Awesome! Not very often that we get to see beaver ponds, is it, Loop?
How do you know they’re beaver ponds, SPHP? See any beavers? I don’t.
Me either, Looper, or even any beaver lodges, but the stick dams are a dead give-away.
Beyond the best beaver pond viewpoint, the trail curved SE for 30 feet, then promptly vanished at the edge of another, smaller beaver pond.
What on earth? Where does the trail go, Loop? Can you sniff it out?
This seems to be the end, SPHP.
No way! Can’t be!
Searching for a way around the pond, SPHP soon realized that it would be next to impossible to push through the willow thickets bordering it. No sign of any trail anywhere, until looking E across the pond along the dam, yes! A narrow lane continued between the bushes on the far side.
Aha! There it is, Looper!
You sure, SPHP? Even if that’s the trail, how are we supposed to get over there?
Obviously, we’re going to have to ford the beaver pond!
What? Are you crazy? Might not be that deep to you, SPHP, but I’ll have to swim. And while Carolina Dogs don’t mind wading, we hate swimming!
Be that as it may, you know you can swim, Loop. I’ve seen you do it.
Well, that was then, and this is now. Not doing it, SPHP! You’ll have to carry me.
Not sure that’s a good idea, Loop. Lost my balance and dropped you once before while trying to ford a stream, and I’d rather not fall into this pond full of ooze. Tell you what. Stay here. I’ll go first. Show ya how it’s done!
Shedding boots and socks again, SPHP waded in, staying right along the edge of the beaver dam. The pond was 40 or 50 feet across, and away from the dam looked to be mid-thigh deep, maybe more, with a mucky bottom. Who knew how far one might sink into the mire?
Eh, not that bad. A little over SPHP’s knees was about as deep as it got. Meanwhile, Lupe was in a panic at being left behind, running back and forth along the edge of the pond, afraid to cross such a large expanse of water. She tried wading in, but stopped when it quickly got chest deep.
Don’t go across the middle, Loopster, that’s the deepest part! Stay close to the beaver dam, like I did. C’mon! You can do it!
Following SPHP’s example, Lupe did stay near the dam. A lot deeper on her than it had been on SPHP, of course, but if she had to swim at all, she didn’t have to Dingo paddle far. Soon she was across, spraying SPHP as she shook herself off. Once SPHP managed to get reassembled with boots, socks, and the pack, it was Onward! Puppy ho!
The journey E up Raymond Canyon continued.
2 miles from the trailhead, the trail forked as the canyon divided.
Which way, SPHP? L branch, or R?
Neither, Loop. Think this is where we need to turn S, but let’s check out both branches of the trail to make sure.
The trail that angled ENE quickly led to a view of another gray, murky little beaver pond down in a ditch. Returning to the R branch, it seemed destined to continue nearly due E.
So, does this look like where you think we are, SPHP?
Yup! Almost certain we’re at Raymond Basin on the topo map, Looper. Time to abandon these trails, and go up the side canyon to the S.
We don’t have to cross this beaver pond?
No, not this one, Loop.
Best news so far today, SPHP!
Only 400 feet of elevation had been gained during the entire 2 mile trek to Raymond Basin. As Lupe headed S up the sagebrush-covered alluvial plain leading to the side canyon, the rate of climb was noticeably steeper, but still wasn’t bad.
The side canyon quickly narrowed to an almost V-shaped bottom. By the time Lupe got that far, she’d found a trail going this way, too. The map showed a tributary of Raymond Creek here, but the valley was dry.
Before long, the trail began climbing the E side of the canyon above the valley floor. On a steep slope, Loop came to a short switchback to the E (L) then back to the W (R), which got her up to a flatter region. The trail turned S again, but was now beginning to fade away.
A steady climb along increasingly intermittent trails resumed, as Lupe traversed the lower W slopes of HP7762. This region was fairly open, dotted with trees and wildflowers. Sublette Mountain’s NNE ridge was just across the valley.
According to this GPS track by Sam Grant, that’s the way he went up, Loop.
Over there? Really, SPHP? That slope looks mighty steep, and for a long way, too! Looks to me like we’re better off on this side of the canyon.
Yeah, Sam’s a beast! Think we’ll skip Mr. Grant’s route, and stay over here, even if it is a bit longer. Appears there may be an easier route up from PASS7540, the saddle W of HP7762 at the upper end of this canyon.
Approaching PASS7540, the lower canyon became heavily forested. Meadows full of yellow wildflowers visible farther up the slope Lupe was on appeared much easier than plunging into the trees. Turning SE, the Carolina Dog climbed more aggressively. SPHP huffed and puffed, stopping frequently to gasp for air, but this slope really wasn’t that bad. Not compared to what Sam Grant had suffered through over on the W side of the canyon!
As she closed in on PASS7540, Lupe still had to explore short sections of forest, but way up here, other than minor deadfall, they were relatively open. Loop finally emerged on the E side of the saddle, a bit higher than the low point. PASS7540 proved to be an easy trek W over open ground. Once across it, Lupe began an 1,100+ foot ascent of Sublette Mountain’s NNE ridge.
The terrain quickly steepened. It wasn’t as steep here as where Sam Grant had gone up a little farther N, but it was still plenty steep. Lupe had time to wander and sniff as SPHP trudged slowly higher. Other than the steepness, which was tiring, but not scary, there were no significant obstacles. Plenty of open ground covered with small, loose scree.
After gaining several hundred feet of elevation, a minor, almost vertical escarpment of finely layered crumbling rock was ahead. Looked like a short, but potentially tricky, scramble might be required to get above it. However, as Lupe reached the base of this little cliff, a clear path went around the N side, easily getting her up top. No scrambling required!
Once above the escarpment, Lupe entered a region featuring exposed bedrock that wasn’t as steep, resulting in a spurt of progress. However, the terrain soon steepened again. Meanwhile, sunny skies vanished. Rain showers swept over the mountain. Twice the Carolina Dog sought shelter beneath big pine trees while waiting for the rain to quit.
Fortunately, no real downpours. Delays were only 10 or 15 minutes each before the slow grind higher resumed.
Near the end, Looper came to a very steep slope. The N side was heavily forested, but most of it was open. The deceptive slope kept looking like easier terrain was only 50 feet higher. However, Lupe had to climb 200 feet before the grade actually diminished. A much gentler open slope now led toward a line of trees along the ridgeline.
Lupe reached Sublette Mountain’s NNE ridgeline at about 8,700 feet. Upon entering the trees, she made an unexpected discovery. A bright red cooler with a white top sat next to a partially collapsed light green tent near a stone fire ring.
Sam Grant’s tent, SPHP! Why would he just leave it up here?
Silly Dingo! That’s not Sam Grant’s tent.
Are you sure, SPHP? How do you know it isn’t?
100% certain. Sam did Sublette Mountain as a day hike, just like we are, Loop. He didn’t camp out. Must be someone else’s tent. Why they would leave it up here, I have no idea. Maybe whoever it was got turned around and couldn’t find it again, or had an emergency? In any case, it makes a great landmark showing us where to leave this ridge on the way back.
More mountain to climb! Abandoning the newly discovered campsite, Lupe turned S, gaining another 50 or 60 feet among the trees before emerging on a broad, relatively flat meadow leading to a forested hill a good 300+ feet high. Should have been some great views both E and W from this open region, but even though the rain showers had dissipated, the sky was still overcast, the air murky.
By now, even Lupe was getting tired. Discouragingly, the topo map showed that this next hill still wasn’t the top of Sublette Mountain, but there was no choice but to carry on. Somewhere beyond that hill, the summit was now less than 0.75 mile away.
At the upper end of the meadow, a faint trail entered the forest toward the E side of the ridge. Lupe followed it a little way before it seemed to vanish amid some deadfall. There was a ravine toward the W separating this part of the ridge Loop was on from the highest part of the hill, which was now SW. Climbing gradually the whole time, the American Dingo continued S, paralleling the ravine until she got to its upper end.
It was now possible to turn W or SW without losing elevation. SPHP led the way as Lupe began to play her stalking game. The American Dingo hung back, only following once SPHP was completely out of sight. Tall aspen trees, bright green leaves just beginning to emerge high in the canopy overhead, stood in hidden openings in the conifer forest.
A steeper slope was beyond the first clearing. Upon reaching the top of the 300+ foot hill, SPHP was surprised to find most of it was a meadow rimmed by trees. A second forested hill could now be seen to the S. This one wasn’t quite as big as the one just climbed.
Not that much farther to go now! SPHP was anxious to get the ascent over and done with, but where was that Carolina Dog? Loop hadn’t made it to the meadow yet. SPHP went back to the edge of the forest, and peering down the slope, called her repeatedly. Slinking silently through the woods, Loopster finally appeared, climbing slowly.
About time you got here, sweet puppy! What’s been keeping you?
Giant Deer Mountain (11,321 ft.) back in the Bighorns was only a couple of days ago, SPHP, and this is another big peak! I’m tired. Can’t we take a break? You must be tired, too, aren’t you?
Of course I am, but we’re almost there, Loop! Let’s rest at the summit.
The American Dingo knew who was boss. Lupe plopped herself down in the meadow and refused to budge.
SPHP sat down next to Loop. Beef jerky, a chocolate coconut bar, and water were administered. 15 minutes of blissful inactivity did the trick.
Barely. Lupe followed reluctantly, as SPHP led the way, but at least she was on the move again. A stretch of sagebrush led to the next forest. Couldn’t be much farther to go now, but upon entering the forest, it was choked with deadfall. Took considerable thrashing around before SPHP realized that there was a semi-decent use trail a little more toward the E. Once on it, life was better.
The trail ended as Lupe reached the narrow N end of a long grassy slope that widened out as it rose toward the S. A lone pine tree stood at the far upper end, and beyond it, a series of very small rises scarcely differing in elevation, all strung out along a completely open ridge.
At the first rise beyond the lone pine, a directional survey marker was surrounded by stones. This marker bore an arrow pointing toward the next rise to to SSE.
6-19-22, 6:15 PM – Lupe was there in no time. Although scarcely any higher than the other rises, this second rise did appear to be the true summit of Sublette Mountain (9,313 ft.). A loose collection of smooth, rounded stones capped the mountain. The “Sublette” survey benchmark was attached to a fairly large stone sunk down in the middle of this pile beneath a wooden stake and a tangle of rusty wire.
There was something else, too! A coffee can painted red contained a jar with a green top. SPHP had no doubt that there was a registry inside, or who had placed it.
My, my! What would Richard Carey say, Loop?
He’d say that the coffee can is supposed to be upside down over the green jar to protect it, and the registry within, from the weather, SPHP.
Exactly right, Looper! Remind me leave it that way when we go.
Shaking Looper’s paw, SPHP congratulated on her successful ascent of Sublette Mountain. The Carolina Dog was then happy to lay down and rest in a chilly 10 mph SW breeze. Big views in all directions except N, where trees blocked the line of sight. Unfortunately, the sky was still overcast, and the air disappointingly hazy.
Long ridges, all lower than Sublette Mountain, were seen both E and W. Very little detail was evident. Several mountains at least as high were far to the NNE. The most interesting view was to the SW, where the Bear River and it’s Thompson Fork tributary meandered through the broad valley down by Border Junction where Highways No. 30 & 89 met.
After sharing more beef jerky, water, and the last chocolate coconut bar, SPHP had a look at the registry, adding Lupe’s name, of course!
Sure enough, the first entry was by Richard Carey and Shelley Rogers.
The sun eventually made several brief attempts to break through the cloud cover, but those few moments of cheeriness quickly faded. The sky grew darker again, and the SW breeze felt colder and stronger. A couple more small rises in close competition for the title of true summit of Sublette Mountain were a little farther SSE. It was clear from Sam Grant’s GPS track, that he’d visited both of them.
Lupe did, too. The last rise was only 300 feet from the true summit, 600 feet from the lone pine. Would have been easy to go even farther along the open ridge, but it was clear that this was the last real high point.
6-19-22, 7:15 PM – Exactly an hour after arriving, Lupe bid farewell to the open summit of Sublette Mountain (9,313 ft.), and the chill breeze sweeping over it. Passing the lone pine for the last time, she began her descent.
An hour’s rest had certainly helped! Loopster clearly enjoyed the much easier downhill trek, displaying renewed energy. SPHP had an easier time seeing where the various game and use trails went through the forested sections, too.
A short break was taken at the 8,700 foot abandoned camp on the NNE ridge so SPHP could pluck all the trash out of the stone fire ring, and clear the spoiled food out of the red cooler for proper disposal later. However, the tent and cooler had to be left behind.
Look at this mess, Loop! I blame a Norwegian!
A Norwegian is at fault, SPHP? What makes you think that?
Who else would bring lefse and hot sauce? A telltale combination, if you ask me!
Certainly weird enough, but I don’t know, SPHP. Might have been a Latin American with a taste for Scandinavian food!
Maybe, but I doubt it. Wouldn’t think most Latin Americans would have ever even heard of lefse, but everyone knows about hot sauce.
Hardly mattered either way. What did matter was the need for speed. SPHP wasn’t looking forward to fording the beaver pond in the dark, and suspected Lupe wouldn’t be all that thrilled about it, either.
The sun was down, light already fading fast, by the time the American Dingo reached Raymond Basin. Turning W on the main trail going down Raymond Canyon, Lupe led the way.
Suddenly, there was movement up on the slope to the S! 150 feet away, something big was crashing and thrashing among the bushes, trying to head W. Barking and whining, Lupe raced ahead, staying on the trail. In the gloom, SPHP caught only a glimpse, but it was enough.
A few seconds, and the noise stopped as quickly as it had begun. Panting hard, Lupe returned all excited, still whining.
A bear, SPHP!
Yeah, I saw it! Stay on the trail, and let’s get past it as fast as we can. Onward! Puppy, ho!
A few minutes, and there was more thrashing around in the bushes S of the trail.
Cripes! It’s a whole flock of bears, Loop! Don’t bark, just keep going!
Two isn’t really a flock, SPHP.
Whatever! Close enough for me! Onward!
Lupe made it to the beaver ponds. As soon as she got there, a loud crash came from over by the big pond just N of the trail. Sounded almost like a gunshot, or as if someone had thrown a huge rock into the pond.
Happened again, twice, in the next minute or two. Getting the willies, SPHP was about ready to ford the small beaver pond when it happened a fourth time. The Carolina Dog wasn’t hanging back now! Without the slightest hesitation, staying near the dam again, Lupe plunged into the dimly lit pond.
6-19-20, 10:18 PM, back at the RAV4 –
Bears and beavers! Guess we’ll always remember Sublette Mountain for that exciting twilight zone return through Raymond Canyon, won’t we Loop?
Bears and beavers, SPHP? Are you saying that beavers were making those loud crashes by the ponds?
Yup, think so. Probably a beaver slapping the water with its tail. You know, as a warning of our approach. Never realized before that a beaver tail could possibly be that loud, though. About jumped out of my skin the first time, with bears already on the brain.
So, about that lefse and hot sauce! Are they still any good, SPHP?
Uh, no. I’ll get you some Alpo, though. A little past dinner time, isn’t it?
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