Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 165 – Matias Peak & Cicero Peak (4-4-16)

Lupe was on her way home from her adventures in western Nebraska.  It wasn’t the end of her adventures on this trip, though.  There was still time for one of Lupe’s Black Hills, SD Expeditions on the way!  As Hwy 18 climbed into the southern hills NE of Edgemont, SPHP was looking for USFS Road No. 379.  Lupe was going to climb Matias Peak (4,780 ft.).

Before reaching the top of the long hill, SPHP spotted a road heading into the trees on the N side of Hwy 18.  There was room to park the G6 there, too.  (11:52 AM, 59°F)  Good!  This was it, USFS Road No. 379!  A marker proved it.  Matias Peak was no more than 2 miles away as the crow flies.  SPHP’s old USFS map showed no road to it, but No. 379 was supposed to get within a mile SW of the summit.

Lupe and SPHP set out on No. 379.  Instead of heading NNE toward Matias Peak, the road wound its way downhill into a dry canyon to the WNW.  Once it reached the bottom of the canyon, No. 379 turned N and started back uphill.  Soon Lupe came to an unmarked intersection.  She took the right branch, which led NE.

Lupe hadn’t followed the right branch very far when Matias Peak came into view at a minor pass.

Matias Peak in the southern Black Hills as seen from a minor pass along USFS Road No. 379. Photo looks NE.
Matias Peak in the southern Black Hills as seen from a minor pass along USFS Road No. 379. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP stayed on No. 379, and went over the pass.  Lupe had already lost 100 feet of elevation when SPHP realized No. 379 was going turn NW away from the mountain and continue losing elevation.  A look around at the terrain showed it would have been better to leave the road back at the pass.  From there, Lupe could climb the ridge to the E.

Lupe and SPHP turned around and returned to the pass.  Lupe left No. 379 and started climbing.  Soon she was a very unhappy Carolina Dog.  There was cactus!  Lupe didn’t want to go this way.  She sat down and wouldn’t move.  She lifted a front paw pathetically begging SPHP for help and mercy.

SPHP checked her paws.  She didn’t seem to have cactus spines in any of them.  SPHP knew her paws weren’t really that sore.  Just a couple of hours ago, she had been racing around having a great time at Toadstool Geological Park in Nebraska.  Maybe she could smell the cactus?

In any event, whether Lupe had stepped on any or not, it was clear she knew cactus was around.  She wanted to go back to the road, or be carried.  The road wasn’t going to take Lupe to Matias Peak.  Going back meant giving up.  On the other hand, Matias Peak was still 1.5 miles away.  SPHP wouldn’t be able to carry her that far, and then all the way back again.

For a couple minutes, Lupe rested while SPHP pondered.  Well, let’s try it and see how it goes.  There’s quite a bit of forest, and there shouldn’t be much cactus in the forest.  SPHP picked Lupe up and started carrying her on up the ridge.  SPHP tried to stay in the forest as much as possible, but there were still sunny little openings harboring more cactus.

Where there were boulders, Lupe was willing to scramble up on her own power for short stretches.  Mostly SPHP had to carry her.  After a somewhat steep, rocky section, Lupe and SPHP reached the flat top of the ridge.  There was a nice view to the N.

Looking N.
Looking N.

Well, at least some progress had been made.  SPHP hoped that this ridge would just sweep around to the NE right on up to Matias Peak.  For a while it looked promising as SPHP carried Lupe E along the top of the ridge.  It all ended at a big steep drop.  SPHP put Lupe down and told her to stay, a completely unnecessary command.  She wasn’t about to budge.

SPHP scouted around looking for a view between the trees.  Low cliffs were just ahead.  Down below was a large field.  On the other side was another forested ridge.  That was probably the ridge that would lead N to Matias Peak.  SPHP returned to Lupe.  Time for a water and rest break!

SPHP studied the topo map printed out from Peakbagger.com.  It was a bit confusing at first, since the topo map was too old to show the correct location of Hwy 18, where Lupe and SPHP had started from.  In a few minutes, though, SPHP was pretty certain where Lupe was.  She was now at the E end of a small ridge marked toward the W end as 4,355 ft. elevation.  Lupe needed to cross the field down below, and head NE toward the next ridge.  That ridge would lead her N to Matias Peak.

It took a long time.  SPHP carried Lupe down off the ridge, finding a way down toward the S.  Then it was a long trek in the sun carrying Lupe across the field.  However, Lupe was willing to climb the far ridge on her own.  SPHP just kept an eagle eye out to help her avoid the occasional cactus.

Once up on the ridge, it was a steady climb, but a fairly gradual one most of the rest of the way up Matias Peak.  There were small cliffs on the W side of the ridge, which provided very nice viewpoints in that direction in many places.  Most of the time, Lupe and SPHP stayed near the cliffs to enjoy the views.

Looking WSW from the S ridge leading up to Matias Peak. USFS Road No. 379 can be seen coming down through the trees on the L. (That's the part of it Lupe and SPHP did not continue on beyond the pass. The pass is near the L edge of this photo.) Wyoming is on the horizon!
Looking WSW from the S ridge leading up to Matias Peak. USFS Road No. 379 can be seen coming down through the trees on the L. (That’s the part of it Lupe and SPHP did not continue on beyond the pass. The pass is near the L edge of this photo.) Wyoming is on the horizon!
Lupe relaxes on one of SPHP's many rest breaks going up Matias Peak.
Lupe relaxes on one of SPHP’s many rest breaks going up Matias Peak.

SPHP took many rest breaks on the way up Matias Peak.  Lupe would never have made it to the top, except for the gradual development of a technique Lupe seemed willing to go along with, despite her trepidation over the scattered cactus.

The technique went as follows: SPHP carried Lupe for a little way, and then put her down.  SPHP then left without her, continuing on up the mountain, scouting around to make sure there wasn’t any cactus along the way.  Lupe always watched with concern as SPHP marched off, but she wouldn’t move.

After going a suitable distance, SPHP would stop, turn around and shout back to Lupe that it was “time to check the maps”.  Lupe seemed to take this to mean that SPHP had somehow magically eliminated all the cactus in her way.  She immediately came running full tilt to catch up.

Of course, Lupe knows what checking the maps normally involves, so SPHP had to actually sit down, get out the maps and take a look at them for a few minutes each time.  Then it was time to carry Lupe for another stretch, before putting her down again.  Rinse and repeat.  Over and over.  It was slow, but not nearly as slow as trying to carry Lupe the entire distance.

Fortunately, Lupe never did run into any cactus.  She continued to believe in the power of checking the maps.  As Lupe and SPHP got nearer the summit, an unmarked dirt road appeared, temporarily curving closer to the W from somewhere off to the SE.  Lupe was perfectly willing to trot along without fear on this road.  Lupe and SPHP began to make rapid progress toward the summit.

Near the end of the climb, Lupe had to leave the road again, which now curved back around to the E of the summit.  The field to the NW had quite a bit of cactus in it, especially higher up.  SPHP went back to carrying Lupe all the time, but it wasn’t too far to the forest at the base of the final short steep climb to the summit.

There didn’t seem to be any cactus around on the final stretch up through the rocks and trees.  Lupe climbed up under her own power.  The top of Matias Peak is a flat forested ridge of moderate length running SW/NE.  Lupe found the very highest rocks to be somewhat closer to the NE end.

Lupe makes it to the top of Matias Peak! She is standing next to the very highest rock. There were a couple of other rocks around almost as high, one of which is the rock in the foreground. Photo looks NE.
Lupe on another rock contending for the highest point on Matias Peak. This one was a bit to the W of the other two, and had a view off to the WNW in the general direction of Pilger Mountain (4,788 ft.).

Lupe and SPHP were pleased to find that although the entire summit ridge was forested, there were several good viewpoints from Matias Peak.

Parker Peak (4,848 ft.) (Center) is the high point of Fall River County. Photo looks SE.
Parker Peak (4,848 ft.) (Center) is the high point of Fall River County. Photo looks SE.
Looking SSE at a truck going over a bridge on Hwy 18. It turned out there was a much easier route up Matias Peak than the one Lupe and SPHP took starting out on USFS Road No. 379. The easier route begins on an unmarked dirt road that leaves Hwy 18 from the big flat grassy area seen to the R of the bridge. This is the same road that Lupe and SPHP encountered not far from the summit.
Looking SSE at a truck going over a bridge on Hwy 18. It turned out there was a much easier route up Matias Peak than the one Lupe and SPHP took starting out on USFS Road No. 379. The easier route begins on an unmarked dirt road that leaves Hwy 18 from the big flat grassy area seen to the R of the bridge. This is the same road that Lupe and SPHP encountered not far from the summit.
The best view from Matias Peak was toward Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.) (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.) (R). Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.
The best view from Matias Peak was toward Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.) (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.) (R of Center). Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP lingered up on Matias Peak for a while.  When it was time to go, Lupe’s confidence had returned to the point where she was running around like normal in the forest.  She came down off the short steep part at the SE end of the summit under her own power.  However, when she reached the grassy area where SPHP had seen quite a few cactus on the way up, SPHP insisted on carrying Lupe the rest of the way down to the dirt road.

Rather than retrace Lupe’s scenic, but slow approach route, SPHP decided Lupe should just stay on the dirt road to see where it went.  Lupe didn’t worry about cactus while on the road, but was still cautious enough not to make forays off to either side.  SPHP didn’t have to carry Lupe at all.

The dirt road wound around a little bit, but eventually straightened out and headed due S across open fields.  It reached Hwy 18 at the top of the long hill NE of Edgemont just W of a bridge over a deep ravine.  There was a big paved pullout on the N side of Hwy 18 where the dirt road reached it.  Even at the highway, the dirt road wasn’t marked with any sign or number.

If Lupe and SPHP would have started up Matias Peak from this point, instead of on USFS Road No. 379, Lupe would have had a much easier, though less scenic time reaching the summit.  The dirt road headed almost straight toward the summit gaining elevation at an easy pace.  Only the last little part of the climb would have been off the road.

At the pullout on the N side of Hwy 18 where the easiest and most direct route to Matias Peak (seen in the background) begins. Photo looks N.

The last part of the return trip from Matias Peak was a not-so-fun trek W along busy Hwy 18 for about 0.75 mile as the highway slowly curved SW.  It was all a gradual downhill slope, which was fortunate, since Lupe wanted to be carried part of the time.  SPHP had to oblige.

Lupe didn’t like the highway traffic, or the scattered cacti and broken glass waiting for her on the shoulder and in the ditch.  SPHP was in complete agreement.  Both Lupe and SPHP were quite happy when the G6 finally came back into view (4:17 PM, 70°F).

Before completing the drive home, Lupe had one final mission.  When Lupe’s trip to western Nebraska had started just 2 days ago, the last peak Lupe had climbed with new friend Jobe Wymore before leaving the Black Hills was Cicero Peak (6,166 ft.).  SPHP had been so interested in Jobe’s mountaineering stories, SPHP had forgotten the camera case up on top of the mountain.  Now Lupe was going to go back up Cicero Peak to see if it was still there.

SPHP parked the G6 at the start of USFS Road No. 338 (Cicero Peak Road) (4:55 PM, 60°F).  Somehow Lupe knew right away.  Maybe the air smelled different.  Maybe she remembered from being here before.  However she knew, Lupe was certain there wasn’t any cactus here!  Suddenly she was free to race happily through the forests again without a care in the world.

Lupe explored, while SPHP hiked the 1.5 mile road back up to the summit of Cicero Peak.  It was a gradual, easy climb.  Near the top, Lupe discovered what may be the last snow she will find in the Black Hills this spring.  There wasn’t much left, and the snow was melting fast, but it was clear Lupe loved it.  She ate big mouthfuls.  She rolled on it to cool off.  The snow tasted and felt great!

Ahh, snow! Feels and tastes so great!
Ahh, snow! Feels and tastes so great!

As Lupe neared the summit, the question was, would the camera case still be there?  SPHP wasn’t even completely certain that was where it had been left behind.

Lupe reaches the tower on top of Cicero Peak. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe went around to the highest rocks just W of the summit tower.  Sure enough, Lupe found the camera case laying among the highest rocks!  The carrying strap looked like a squirrel had nibbled on one edge of it.  The squirrel hadn’t done it much harm, though.  Apparently camera case carrying straps lack that nutty taste squirrels crave.

Lupe finds the camera case resting among the summit rocks of Cicero Peak, right where SPHP had left it 2 days earlier. A squirrel had chewed the strap a little, but had done little damage.
Lupe finds the camera case resting among the summit rocks of Cicero Peak, right where SPHP had left it 2 days earlier. A squirrel had chewed the strap a little, but had done little damage.

Finding the camera case again made Lupe’s Cicero Peak mission a complete success!  All that was left was the descent back down the mountain.

On the way down, Lupe saw smoke from a forest fire to the SE.  She saw Matias Peak, where she had just been, looking small and insignificant far away on the S edge of the Black Hills.  She glimpsed the strange rock to the NW that Lupe and SPHP know as “Cracked Molar” (officially Beecher Rock?).  Sharp-eyed Jobe had noticed it two days ago.

Smoke from a forest fire (L) somewhere not too far SE of Cicero Peak.
Smoke from a forest fire (L) somewhere not too far SE of Cicero Peak.
Matias Peak (L) from Cicero Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
Matias Peak (L) from Cicero Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
The rock Lupe and SPHP know as "Cracked Molar" is probably officially Beecher Rock. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
The rock Lupe and SPHP know as “Cracked Molar” is probably officially Beecher Rock. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

The thing that made Lupe happiest, though, was seeing, tasting, and feeling the last of the cold melting snow one more time.Lupe coming down Cicero Peak, 4-4-16

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Toadstool Geologic Park, Nebraska (4-4-16)

The thin yellow-orange crescent of the dying moon hung low in the eastern sky.  Overhead, the Milky Way stretched across the dark heavens.  Birds were already singing, though.  Dawn was coming.  A faint light was already discernable on the horizon.  In the darkness, Lupe sniffed around the huge vacant parking lot of the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 E of Harrison, Nebraska.

Lupe and SPHP weren’t sleepy, but there wasn’t any sense in leaving before it was light out.  Lupe had come to see what was here.  It would be light out soon enough.  Back in the G6 for another restless hour.  SPHP finally dozed a bit and woke up to find Lupe wide awake, and the sun about to rise.

Sunrise from the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 in western Nebraska.
Sunrise from the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 in western Nebraska.
Sunrise a few minutes later from Hwy 20 approaching Fort Robson State Park.
Sunrise a few minutes later from Hwy 20 approaching Fort Robson State Park.

Within a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP were heading E on Hwy 20 toward Crawford, Nebraska.  It was a gorgeous morning for a drive.  Fort Robson State Park was still closed when Lupe passed through.  Nearing Crawford, Lupe stopped briefly at a golf course with a great view of Saddle Rock, one of the Red Cloud Buttes.

Lupe likes chasing balls, but she isn’t much into golf. She still stopped at this golf course W of Crawford due to the great view of Saddle Rock, part of the Red Cloud Buttes. Photo looks WNW.

Four or five miles N of Crawford, SPHP left Hwy 2/71 turning left on Toadstool Road.  The gravel road was in fairly decent shape.  It went W a couple miles before following the Burlington Northern railroad NW.  Lupe had a blast riding with her head out the window in the wind.  She barked with great vigor and enthusiasm at mostly unimpressed cows and horses along the way.

SPHP spotted an interesting mountain a few miles to the W.  It looked like a great peakbagging goal for Lupe on a future trip.  SPHP had no idea what mountain it was.  A check of the maps later on revealed it is called Roundtop (4,540 ft.).

SPHP thought the mountain L of Center looked like an interesting possible future peakbagging goal for Lupe. A check of the maps later on revealed it is most likely Roundtop (4,540 ft.).
SPHP thought the mountain L of Center looked like an interesting possible future peakbagging goal for Lupe. A check of the maps later on revealed it is most likely Roundtop (4,540 ft.).

After following the railroad for 10 or 11 miles, Lupe reached a turn to the W for Toadstool Geologic Park.  It was a little over a mile to the campground.  Lupe was soon there.  Not another soul was in sight, which was just perfect!  Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look around.

Lupe at the entrance to Toadstool Geological Park in western Nebraska's badlands. A sod home is seen on the L.
Lupe at the entrance to Toadstool Geological Park in western Nebraska’s badlands. A sod home is seen on the L.

Toadstool Geologic Park has 6 campsites with covered picnic tables, fire rings, grills, and plenty of flat grassy land to pitch a tent on.  There was a restroom, too, but that was it for amenities.  There were no trees to provide shade, and no water or electricity.  On the bright side, this time of year there weren’t any fees, either.  The flat, exposed campground was next to stark, but beautiful badlands territory just to the W.

Before checking out the badlands on the Fossil Loop Trail, Lupe went to take a look at the campground’s sod house.  A sign said the sod house had been constructed in 1984 as an example of the homes pioneers lived in on the prairie.  Lupe went inside, but it didn’t take her long to check out the only amenities, which consisted of four walls and a roof.  Life used to be extremely hard on the prairie!

Lupe on a little mound near the sod house. Photo looks SSW at some of the fossil rich badlands at Toadstool Geological Park.
Lupe on a little mound near the sod house. Photo looks SSW at some of the fossil-rich badlands at Toadstool Geological Park.

Next, Lupe and SPHP went to check out the Fossil Loop Trail.  The mile long trail starts on the W side of the campground.  There was a box full of pamphlets providing a self-guided tour.  Numbered posts along the trail correspond to numbered sections in the pamphlet, so it was a good idea to take one along.  According to the pamphlet:

Toadstool Geologic Park is a key link in understanding the earth’s history from 38 to 24 million years ago.  Geologists consider it the “type section for the White River Group,” meaning that all other similar-aged deposits in North America are compared to the geologic standard designated at Toadstool.  It is also the standard for animal fossils of that age – the Eocene and Oligocene epochs about 30 million years ago.

One of several informational displays at Toadstool Geologic Park.

While SPHP took the Fossil Loop Trail self-guided tour, Lupe raced around sniffing and exploring the badlands.  There wasn’t much vegetation and she didn’t encounter any cactus, which made Lupe very happy.  She did agree to take a little time out from her explorations of the strange rock formations to add some Carolina Dog charm to a number of photos.

Lupe among the toadstools. The toadstools are slabs of sandstone perched precariously on clay supports. Many of the sandstone caps were leaning sharply in one direction or another. Some of the toadstools were surprisingly large.
Lupe among the toadstools. The toadstools are slabs of sandstone perched precariously on clay supports. Many of the sandstone caps were leaning sharply in one direction or another. Some of the toadstools were surprisingly large.

A tiny trickling stream wound through part of the area the Fossil Loop Trail went through.  During periods of significant rain or melting snow, it was clear the stream would flash flood, making the trail at first impassable and later a complete muddy mess, but it was fine while Lupe was here.

A tiny stream trickled through this valley. In wet weather, parts of the trail would be a mucky mess.
A tiny stream trickled through this valley. In wet weather, parts of the trail would be a mucky mess.

About halfway around the loop, there was an intersection with a Bison Trail.  A sign said the Bison Trail was 3 miles long.  There was no mention of the Bison Trail in the pamphlet, or at any of the informational displays back at the campground.

Lupe near the intersection with the Bison Trail. Lupe and SPHP didn't take the Bison trail, which was 3 miles long according to the sign, since there was no indication where it was really going.
Lupe near the intersection with the Bison Trail. Lupe and SPHP didn’t take the Bison trail, which was 3 miles long according to the sign, since there was no indication where it was really going.

Shortly after passing the Bison Trail, the Fossil Loop Trail climbed out of the shallow valley up onto some of the badlands formations.  The trail stayed up here the rest of the way.  A little bit of easy scrambling was required, and the trail went close to the edge of some cliffs, but this section of the Fossil Loop Trail had some of the most interesting rock formations.

Lupe up on the badlands formation on the Fossil Loop Trail. Post No. 5 for the self-guided tour is on the lower left. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe up on the badlands formations on the Fossil Loop Trail. Post No. 5 for the self-guided tour is on the lower left. Photo looks ENE.
When it rains, this dry wash must fill with water and create quite a waterfall! The trail passed very close to the cliff partly in view on the lower left. Photo looks SSE from the Fossil Loop Trail.
When it rains, this dry wash must fill with water and create quite a waterfall! The trail passed very close to the cliff partly in view on the lower left. Photo looks SSE.
An American Dingo adds a dash of color to this otherwise pale tan and blue scene. 30 million years ago miniature horses, humpless camels, gigantic tortoises, pigs and rhinoceroses roamed here. Now dingoes do!
An American Dingo adds a dash of color to this otherwise pale tan and blue scene. 30 million years ago miniature horses, humpless camels, gigantic tortoises, pigs and rhinoceroses roamed here. Now Dingoes do!

The Fossil Loop Trail was fun, but didn’t take very long to complete.  Upon returning to the campground, Lupe and SPHP had a bit to eat.  The solitude was broken when another vehicle entered the park.  It turned out that a couple from northern Italy, Lorenzo and Gabriella, had come to hike the Bison Trail!  When they couldn’t find any information about it, they came over to meet Lupe and talk to SPHP.

Lorenzo and Gabriella said the Bison Trail leads to a boneyard where 700 hundred bison had died!  They wondered where the trail was.  SPHP told them to just take the Fossil Loop Trail.  Halfway along it they would find the intersection with the Bison Trail.  After chatting pleasantly for a few more minutes, off they went.

SPHP was impressed that Lorenzo and Gabriella had travelled so far to see Toadstool Geological Park, but it was time for Lupe to move on.  Except for a joy ride N barking at cows and horses, Lupe’s mini-Dingo Vacation in scenic western Nebraska was coming to an end.  Minus the cactus on the hike with new friend Jobe Wymore, it had all been great fun!

Maybe Lupe will return some day to camp out at Toadstool Geological Park.  Then she can explore the Bison Trail, climb Roundtop, and visit Fort Robson State Park.  A stretch of pleasant dry weather during spring or fall would be the best time to be here.   In badlands like these, winters are too cold and the summers baking hot!

There's a little scrambling around on stuff like this on the Fossil Loop Trail, but it's not hard.
There’s a little scrambling around on stuff like this on the Fossil Loop Trail, but it’s not hard.

Note:  After Lupe returned home, a little online research revealed that the Bison Trail at Toadstool Geological Park probably goes to the Hudson-Meng Education & Research Center.  Approximately 120-125 (not 700) bison died at this site around 10,000 years ago.

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On & Off the Hudson Meng Bison Trail – Toadstool Geologic Park to Roundtop Peak & Beyond, Nebraska (3-14-18)

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